It is not just a matter of red Loctite on everything. Thin aluminum shims need to be cut and used around the portion that goes through the bottom bracket shell and the shell needs to be packed with grease. The grease cannot compress, sort of like hydraulic fluid. This will stabilize the motor. The amount of shim material is different for each bike. Even the same model and model year. It has got to be tight. It took me over a year to figure this out. It makes all the difference. No creaks.One more question. Wish I had asked earlier. I have heard of these motor making creaking or other noises if they are somewhat loose. Should I be using locktite or doing anything else to avoid that?
I worked on a fat bike today. What a nightmare. A rear flat took forever. One part is the rims do not support the tire bead well. That is just one part. Problem after problem. It is a gimmick for marketing. Yes, it sells. The guy thought is was a mountain bike! It would not survive in the wild: Can't go off a curb without getting a flat. Can't climb a hill. It was new with 20 miles. He rode one of my bikes with Schwalbe 50's and is going to sell the heavy monster. Rout cables before installation of the motor and battery. This is hard because you need to first visualize the whole at inception. Which cannot be done on your first dozen builds. Here is one example from today, its in process. Next the shimming. It is well worth pulling the motor to start fresh. Note that this example bike has all white cables and wires. The contiguous shifter housing goes over the BB. This bike is new, that makes things much better.Thanks PedalUma. I have already installed the motor without doing any of those things. At this point I will hope for the best and consider reinstalling the motor using your suggestions if I have any issues with noise. All I have left is to do is install a new shift cable and connect all the wiring. Any suggestions as to how much slack to leave in the wiring or how best to hide the wiring to have a clean install? If all goes well I should be able to go for my first ride in a day or two.
As much as I am looking forward to riding my throttle-less conversion bike, I'm already thinking that in the future, I may want to purchase a fat tire E-bike with a very powerful battery for days when I don't feel like pedaling at all. Those look like a whole lot of fun. A fat tire E-Bike may also allow me to ride more often in the winter maybe even in the snow.
True, many e-bike accidents are like motorcycle accidents. What’s really bothered me about e-biking after buying my first e-bike a little over a year ago is that it’s twice as dangerous as a regular bike because #1 People don’t expect you to be covering so much ground so quickly, I can’t tell you how many times I’ll be coming down the road and have someone pull out in front of me… You can see the deer in the headlights look drivers get when they realize they just cut you off and misjudged your speed or #2 Drivers are impatient and they will hurry to try and get around you, once again misjudging your speed and creating dangerous situations.Thanks, I like the idea of keeping the weight down. Should make the bike easier to haul. I saw a video that said many E-bike accidents are similar to motorcycle accidents. So I want my E-Bike to continue to be more like a regular bike as far as speed is concerned. I don't see a reason for a lots of power unless one wants to go fast or tackle steep hills. I'm only looking to make my recreational rides longer and more enjoyable. Not to mention with rim brakes, fairly skinny tires and no suspension I probably don't want too much speed.
The Bafang or Tongsheng mid drive motors both appear to be 750W. Would something lower powered be more appropriate?
Is my Scott hybrid bike a good choice for a conversion?
What is typically the most difficult part of doing a conversion?
FWIW none of the 6 bikes that I installed the tsdz2 on had any detectable wiggle or looseness in the bottom bracket that I could tell. I did try shims made from strips of pop/beer can but there was no clearance to allow for even a single strip. All of the bikes have aluminum frames. I'll try again when I install on a '70s steel frame bike. I'd guess that different bikes might have different clearances, YMMV.OK thanks I'll go with the shims, grease and locktite. Where can I get the shims and what size?
Not to mention falling off a bike at those speeds. All I really want from the motor is to feel like I always have the wind at my back. Even 20 mph is fast enough for me. I ride on paths and side streets with as little traffic as possible. I see road bikes on suburban roads where people are driving past at 50 mph and there is a bike path right next to the road. I'm on the path, I'm not trusting the drivers. I realize that a path is not always an option especially if one wants to go fast.True, many e-bike accidents are like motorcycle accidents. What’s really bothered me about e-biking after buying my first e-bike a little over a year ago is that it’s twice as dangerous as a regular bike because #1 People don’t expect you to be covering so much ground so quickly, I can’t tell you how many times I’ll be coming down the road and have someone pull out in front of me… You can see the deer in the headlights look drivers get when they realize they just cut you off and misjudged your speed or #2 Drivers are impatient and they will hurry to try and get around you, once again misjudging your speed and creating dangerous situations.
I get what you’re saying about the speed thing tho, for awhile now I’ve wanted to upgrade mine to get some better performance but after reading your post it’s given me a little better idea about what I want/don't want in my bike. I think 25 mph is plenty fast for me, I just want to get there quick …..