Juiced RipCurrent-S (aka RCS) - 1000 km Impressions and Log Summary

Bruce Arnold

Well-Known Member
The Battery; I've now put 86 km on a single charge of the battery (single trip), voltage was 45.6V under load. The bike was packed carrying an extra 13Ah battery, and some gear of a similar weight. The bike didn't quit, but at/under 46V the bike performs poorly compared to higher voltages. Noticeable pulsing when power is required, throttle unable to give the typical boost. It's like the 750W motor turns into a 300-350W motor. I don't have the time to drain the battery more as i need it recharged for another long trip, but I'm going to make a point of running it down further to observe the behavior. Right now I'm a little disappointed in this behavior, the controller/motor are not well designed for when the battery gets low.
The controller does not have regulated voltage and I'm not aware of any ebike that does. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. The behavior you describe is typical of bikes at low voltage and this is the result you'll get every time. It's not bad design, it's typical design. I'm concerned that you will harm your battery, running it too low like that just to see what happens. With a 52 volt system, by the time you hit 46 volts you will notice a distinct drop in performance and really shouldn't go much lower than that if you can help it. 46 volts is just over 20% state of charge, which is the practical limit for these batteries. @Ravi Kempaiah would you care to chime in? (In case you don't know Ravi, he's a PhD student in this kind of technology and holds a world record for long-distance ebiking, so pretty knowledgeable from both the scientific and the practical side.)
 

Ravi Kempaiah

Well-Known Member
Region
Canada
City
Halifax
To be honest, I have not dealt with Juiced's 52V controller, so can't comment on that.
But @CityExplorer 's experience mirrors many others. This is consistent across many brands but more pronounced in mid-tier bikes.
As the voltage drops low, to maintain certain level of power, you need to pump in more amps.
Some batteries struggle to provide high currents at low voltages. I believe their 13Ah pack had 26F cells but their 19Ah packs had different cells.

By picking the right cells/controller combo, it is possible to provide smooth power until very low voltages.
ASI controller is found on bikes like Stromer and the performance doesn't drop significantly until the last 2-3%.
There are some MOSFETs that are very efficient and if the whole package is designed right, this voltage sag issue can be minimized.
 

Explorer-1

Well-Known Member
I broke my personal record of a few days ago again, reaching 137km (GPS) for a single ride, I was riding the RCS.

On this trip I managed 101km on the Juiced rated 52V/19Ah battery, at 44V the battery voltage began to flash (although I have the minimum voltage set lower in the display), the capacity bar graph showed zero bars. The motor did not completely shut off, but could not offer much help. The battery stats display showed 43.7V at rest, 709Wh and 12.9 Ah used. Battery Temp was 38.7ºC.
 

Explorer-1

Well-Known Member
2000km Update on the RCS

Passed 2000km today on my RCS, and last week I broke my personal record again going over 100mi (168km) in a single trip. The bike has been performing very well, really loving that I can pedal the bike at speed without my hands on the handle bars even with the bike loaded with 30-40lbs of extra gear; it is a great way to relax and stretch while riding. The stability of this bike is quite amazing. The axles on this bike are also quite amazing, as rolling resistance really is a notch above my other e-bike. Need to get new tires on my other bike so the RCS has started to take on some long trips I never intended to do with it, and it has performed really great. Turned out to be the perfect bike for the trips as it's extra speed and able to handle multiple terrains was a life saver. One trail was 30 miles.

I will say if a bike can carry two batteries, it really is preferable to me to have the bike use the one battery fully before switching to the other, rather than using them both at the same time even though technically that is better for the battery and range. Have that fresh battery on the last 1/3rd of my trips is just so valuable, I would not want it any other way.
 

Explorer-1

Well-Known Member
Great reports, thank you for taking the time to write this all up
Thanks, I like documenting it for now for it's first season.

2500km Update on the RCS

The RCS is going strong, with my other bike still waiting for me to get the new tires on it, the RCS has been handling all the transportation duties it seems. This last weekend we rolled past 2500km (1600 mi) and broke our personal records again with a single trip 175km+ (GPS) (109mi) and i managed to squeak out 112.8km (70mi) on a single charge of the Juiced 19.2Ah rated battery. I could have pushed a few more, but I was tired after 13 hours and it was time to just gun it on a new battery and get home. I babied that battery to get it to go that far, didn't take it out of eco-mode until the last 20km.

Not too many events to report; the connector for the display had managed to loosen itself up at some point, just had to screw it together, so don't think just because some of the connectors have threaded matting that they can't loosen up. Brakes need adjustment now, more fluid or new pads, not sure which. I'm not sure I can get to 3000km before the end of the season, but hoping I do. The RCS is an interesting bike, really nice on moderate trails without a lot of aggressive elevation changes. The wide tires get it more attention than I care for, packed with the panniers and double headlight does not help with it's stealth image either.
 

camdon44

Member
I got my RCS a couple of months ago. I can not seem to get the brakes right. Both front and back brakes have a loud grinding noise and feel when applied firmly. I took it to the bike shop and they are not much better. I guess it is the pads. Anybody else have this problem?
 

Bruce Arnold

Well-Known Member
I got my RCS a couple of months ago. I can not seem to get the brakes right. Both front and back brakes have a loud grinding noise and feel when applied firmly. I took it to the bike shop and they are not much better. I guess it is the pads. Anybody else have this problem?
My Scorpion does something similar. My CCS braked almost silently, and my HyperScorpion is pretty good also. I don't know what the deal is with the Scorpion. It stops just fine -- the brakes work as they should -- so why the noise? I'm stumped. This doesn't really help you, unless misery really does love company. ;)
 

camdon44

Member
My Scorpion does something similar. My CCS braked almost silently, and my HyperScorpion is pretty good also. I don't know what the deal is with the Scorpion. It stops just fine -- the brakes work as they should -- so why the noise? I'm stumped. This doesn't really help you, unless misery really does love company. ;)
Well, maybe somebody else out there has some ideas. I may just try to contact Juiced...
 

Banderboy

New Member
Region
USA
Very nice write-up. If you mentioned it I missed it- what size frame do you have, and how tall are you? Pretty sure I'm going to get a RC5.:)
 

Explorer-1

Well-Known Member
Very nice write-up. If you mentioned it I missed it- what size frame do you have, and how tall are you? Pretty sure I'm going to get a RC5.:)
I don't think I mentioned it. I got the medium frame and I'm 5'10 short inseam though of 30". I have the seat extended a fair ways, but the stand over height is a bit high for me, but I can deal with it.
 

Asher

Well-Known Member
My Scorpion does something similar. My CCS braked almost silently, and my HyperScorpion is pretty good also. I don't know what the deal is with the Scorpion. It stops just fine -- the brakes work as they should -- so why the noise? I'm stumped. This doesn't really help you, unless misery really does love company. ;)

Poor man's bike horn!

Usually this problem is down to dirty brake pads, but you checked that, and that's not it. Disc brake calipers are very finicky, but especially low end ones like Juiced uses, and with the QR skewers that don't put wheels back in the same exact position (vs a thru axle). Maybe the caliper isn't grabbing the rotor just right. Every time I took the front wheel off the CCS I got brake rub when I replaced it.
 

1Veteran

New Member
July 4th independence day started with a 65km little trip to the beach and the long way home. The odometer on my RCS ended the day at 1035 km, so I thought it was time to share my thoughts. I'll start with my over all impressions, but continue reading if you want to hear about the warts.


Juiced eBike RCS purchased Nov. 12th 2019 on a Holiday sale that they started a bit early. Saved a couple hundred dollars, but nothing major. The bike was delivered just about a week later, which was fantastic, better than I was expecting. I was very happy about that. This is only my second e-bike and I purchased it for the larger battery (19Ah Advertised), and to try FAT Tires as I often was riding on sandy trails that could be very tricky with narrow tires, and though heavy washouts where the mud was too much at times for narrow tires.

My Overall Impressions
After 1000km I feel that the RCS is a very nice bike, and I am very happy with it. It met my expectation that I bought it for really well. The one battery is large enough to get me to and back from many of my destinations (I carry 1, and sometimes 2 spare batteries with my other bike the 2018 DJ-ebilkes MTB). Still I have range anxiety on the RCS as I've never taken it on trips long enough to exhaust the battery, I will get a better idea of range hopefully before the 2000km. I've taken its on my typical 55-65 km trips, and it has worked well. I'm typically using 10-12 Wh/km, and around 8 Wh/km when I'm being more conservative; as calculated by the display on the bike, but I don't have a lot of confidence in those numbers although they seem to align with my real world travels on my other bike.

The bike is big and heavy which can sure be a problem on some more challenging trails, and getting around trail barriers meant to keep Motor Vehicles out. Some quality control problems, but it seems the same with all the on-line vendors. No one is checking very carefully the components or assembly of these bikes.

The bike assembly was pretty straight forward, as there were no missing parts. There was one incorrect part, that I was able to make work, and I added a few washers and lock-washers to the assembly, as I felt they were a good idea. There were two manufacturing issues I had to work around, one with the frame, and one component installation issue i discovered later that I was just barely able to work around. I didn't call the Vendor for either of these issues (details further down). Assembly instructions are pretty poor, and there are no videos that actually match this specific bike.

Performance of the bike is fantastic, just what I had hoped for over my other e-bike. I live near the coast so I have a lot of fairly flat terrain and hills are not much of an issue except for shorter durations and on some trails. Performance is above my DJ-MTB.



General - More good stuff

  1. This bike is SUPER stable. Geometry, tires, it all comes together to make a super stable bike. It is so easy to ride without hands on the bar, and I got it up to 54km/h going down hill and and it was perfectly stable and easy to control. If this bike had a more powerful motor, people would be cruising fast on it. It feels great to ride due to its super stable stance. Love this aspect of the bike.
  2. The FAT tires really work well for many of my rides that use dirt trails with sand and gravel in sections. The trails often have washouts and serious mud in the Spring or after heavy rains. This bike eats these trails and ultimately makes this bike quite useful to me even though I have the DJ MTB. They do produce quite a bit of road noise, but I was able to adjust to it fairly quickly, and prefer to ride off road anyway, but uses the roads to get there when necessary.
  3. This bike is pretty fast, especially on a fresh battery, and the speed lasts longer as the battery is depleted than my DJ bike. I was hoping for this, so I’m very happy. It also has extra power over my DJ MTB for hills that can be very handy off road.
  4. The throttle is always hot. That is even when the assist-level is 0 (off) the throttle still works. I really like this as I can use zero assist more often, and still have the throttle when needed. This is a bit dangerous though, and it means sometimes turning off the bike/display when bumping the throttle might be an issue. It would be really great if there was just a pushbutton on the top of the throttle to turn it off, so it would be easy when lifting the bike over rocks and trees or steps to have the throttle disengaged; just quicker than turning on and off the bike.
  5. The gearing on the RCS is great! This lets me know that Juiced did seriously think about some things, or got good consultation/information, as they nailed the gearing i believe for this bike. This also makes the bike very nice to ride. This is a nice improvement over my DJ MTB.

Below I will talk about a lot of things, many bad things, but overall I love this bike, and it met my needs and expectations completely. Durability is still to be determined.


More Details, some not so good

The Warts / What the He?? were they thinking


1. A few things leave me scratching my head on the overall bike
  1. A 1.5mm Hex head screws for the LCD display mount, now how stupid is that? A precision screwdriver sized screw used for a handlebar mount? What kind of psycho thought that was a good idea, should they even be allowed to work on bikes, let alone design components for them.
  2. No Rear Fender.... Juiced has to take the blame for this one. Hard to believe they know anything about what they are doing when they make a bike like this without a rear fender. The truth is they know and went with it anyway. When Juiced can't solve a problem they just seem to ignore it, they need to sell bikes.
  3. There is no videos or manual that actually matches this bike. First time assemblers or less inclined might find this very difficult when it need not be. Again, Juiced's focus seems more on new different bikes than customer experience.
  4. One issue (of a few) with the fork is that it does not really fit the bike, or is not protected by a stop. When the handlebars are all the way to the right or left the top of the shock (the adjustment control) hits the frame, OUCH! you'll have a nice scratch on your frame in no-time if you use the bike a lot in tight places and having to navigate around barriers or your bike falls in some case. You could end up in breaking the shock.
2. There was a ~2mm spot on the LCD when new, it was on the inside, not it's about 1cm in diameter and just partially blocking the Assist-level. This must be a fungus, and sunlight has not managed to kill it, I may try UV light, or I'll have to open up the display, or just buy a new one when it god too bad.


Assembly - The bad parts

  1. The assembly videos on the website never actually feature a Rip-Current S, and I don’t believe a single one of them was even accurate. Even the unboxing video was wrong, but that one didn’t really matter unless you are looking for Zip-Ties that do not exist.
  2. The paper manual that is included in the box is talking about some other bike, mounting the front tire is all wrong. It did get their generic LCD correct, and mounting of the handlebar with the 4 screws. It says to verify the tires are inflated properly, but does not say anything about what they consider is proper, or where to get that information.
  3. You have to figure out how to mount the front fender yourself, not too difficult, except the clamps you need to put on the fork to attache the stays were different sizes and only one fit the fork correctly. As others have mentioned the clamps are such poor quality that just hand tightening them you can push the head of the screw right through the clamp. I agree treat the clamps gingerly when tightening.
  4. Manufacturing defect; One of the mount points to mount the rear rack stays was not properly tapped to the correct depth and I twisted the head off the screw. Thank god for old quality vise grips, and having a shorter 12mm screw on hand.
  5. Manufacturing defect; The rear Rack mount extensions had a QC issue the thread hole was not parallel to the bottom drilled hole so it then did not align nice and flush with the lower attachment point as it is twisted relative to the frame.
  6. Manufacturing defect; My seat post had a gouge in it that left a surface burr so I had to file/grind that smooth as i didn’t want to be scratching up the tube.
  7. Design Issue; The front headlight was installed, but pointing at the sky. They probably intended you to actually unmount it though as you need access to the mount point to mount the front fender. I used some extra hardware of my own to secure the fender to the fork so the one nut does not hold both the fender and the light. This is a 'fiddley' part of installation, but more importantly it is a bad design with a suspension fork (not a good design with regular fork either) as the light is bouncing up and down with the tire, as well as poor angle. I have never used this light and mounted proper lighting.
  8. This one bugs me the most; Looks like the brake cables were sized and routed for euro/motorcycle layout, but then at the last moment the positions swapped to match silly US bike layout, but cable length and routing was not changed. Really ugly and because they are hydraulic fixing them is a pain that most regular people will not want to mess with. If I could I would want to put them into their 'proper' positions. One day I will do it.

Serious issue with Manufacturer's Assembly
  1. Discovered later after some km when the chain started skipping; I was very unhappy to discover that they had installed the rear derailleur components incorrectly. The 'B' screw, or 'Tension' screw, for the derailleur adjustment was not working at all, it was a screw that was just spinning in free air when adjusted, and the manufacture had use lock-tite on the screw in a position where it had absolutely no effect. Luckily I was able to work it out such that I could just limit the derailleur and that seemed to be sufficient. I don't know how to fix this, I would have to remove the rear wheel to see if they alighted the tension adjustment on the axel incorrectly, if so it is likely broken now as it should not be possible to get the alignment wrong, but I don't know anything about this derailleur. I saw one other person report an issue with the RCS, which sounded very similar, unclear if they fixed it the same way, and it is unconfirmed it was the same issue.

Operational issues
  1. The Walk-Mode is not quite powerful enough for my uses off road, or steps, or in general if the bike is loaded. Some say my DJ-MTB has a walk mode that is too-fast, and I can see that on flat ground with an unloaded bike, but to me it has the power needed to get up steep trails, or get a loaded bike home with a flat; the RCS just is not good for any of that, it might be good for slow walkers on a flat surface, I've never needed that. Since the throttle is hot all the time though that can get me out of most situations, except it has a power/stall cut that can make just a few steps a problem at times. I also find on the LCD it is hard to keep the walk mode active as the display is not solidly mounted and you have to keep pressure on the button to keep it in locked mode. Most people would probably think the walk mode is fine though, not heard any other complaints.
  2. I sometimes miss having an easy way to have the trip OD on the main screen, but it's a very small thing and generally I'm fine with the way it works.
  3. Another problem with the fork is that it does not really fit the bike. When the handlebars are all the way to the right the top of the shock (the adjustment control) hits the frame, OUCH! you'll have a nice scratch on your frame in no-time if you use the bike a lot in tight places and having to navigate around barriers or your bike falls in some case. You could end up in breaking the shock.

Summary of the General Issues; That his quite a long list of bad things, but we shall not dwell on them too much. Only one really serious issue. although the brake cable length and routing really bugs me. If you are buying on-line that ships their bikes without inspecting them from the factory then I feel these issues are going to happen. I hear of issues event with the top name brand bikes that are crazy. No robotic assembly and testing for bikes yet it seems.


Components
Generally I'm very happy with the components installed on the bike. They generally work well. The brakes are good, but personally I prefer the simpler adjustments and maintenance of mechanical linkage brakes, but hydraulic are nice to operate. The indexed-shifter works very well and was correctly and precisely aligned from the factory; however just not a fan of this style of shifter and it prevented me from moving the throttle from the left to the right where I prefer it, the ergonomics would just not work. Still most I think most would prefer this shifter over more basic ones, and probably love it.
  1. They did not include a rear-derailleur guard, that should be included on such a big heavy bike. I have not been able to verify if the frame can support mounting one, something I need to look into.
  2. The front suspension fork is not as shown in photos and videos, and so far seems to be complete crap (Maybe this should be in the “What the H*** Were They Thinking” category above). After several 100 km I decided to experiment with the pressure of the shock, I did get it to work a bit better and the adjustment lever now seems to do something, but it is still much worse than the cheep shock included on my DJ MTB. Basically I think buyers got hosed on the shock. I've learned to live with it, one day there may be a good drop-in replacement, but I understand that can be a bit of work. If anyone has tips on replacing the fork, let me know.
  3. The Battery - 52V / 19Ah ; I'm a battery guy, and one of my top 3 considerations with any e-bike is the battery. So far the battery has performed great. I really love the 52V drive on the Bafang motor. There have been a lot of problems with the battery mount in the past, no idea if the problems are really fixed, and no way to get the correct answer except watch for reports from newer owners. I use and extra rubber strap to secure the battery just in case, as sometimes i have to go over fairly jarring terrain. The Battery Charger is the typical cheap low quality variety, rated at 2.5Ah it does the job (slowly), and may not last or stay within spec for too long.
  4. I swapped out the seat, pedals, bell, rear light, and front light; so I can't comment too much on how they work, but felt they were not suitable for my needs.



Some Rambling
To repeat some of my conclusions above, I really like this bike, it is great to ride. My DJ-MTB feels small and fragile for the first 5min after I’ve been riding the RCS for a while yet it is not it is really a tough bike.

I had to add some cable wraps to the RCS to tame all the long cables at the front of the bike, and to protect them for trail riding. With the high rise handle bar there was not enough room to add all my accessories, so I added a daughter-bar and that worked great and looks great.

I go on some long rides, my typical ones are 55-65km, by record was 95km, but just recently I broke that with a 112km ride that would have been more but conditions were not right. Those long rides were both on my DJ-MTB using 2x625Wh batteries, the 95km one may have used 3 batteries because I wanted higher speed when returning, but the second battery was not depleted.

The RCS battery 52V/19Ah (~971Wh) is fantastic. It really means on most known trips I just need the one battery and it has still great power and able to still hit 40km/h or close at the end of my journeys. However for longer trips or more exploratory ones where I don't really know how far I will go I take the DJ-MTB with 3 batteries.

I'd like to have an extra battery for the RCS, but an extra one from Juiced is $1300 + shipping. That is basically highway robbery, so I was working on adapting a better battery to the RCS. That project is delayed right now, as a small miracle happened and I found a smaller used 13Ah battery on eBay for cheap and it works great. These are big batteries though to carry extra, I’ve done it a few times, but never needed it. The day is coming very soon though where I'll break 100km on the RCS in a single ride. I'm really disappointed Juiced can not offer their battery at market standard pricing, let alone competitive pricing. The WW Titan battery is probably a better battery at 38% less, and other options exist for less. If small WattWagons can offer a quality-cell battery for so much less, then Juiced certainly can; everyone else in the industry manages to do it also. Any way I’m happy my situation is currently sorted and am exited about a future battery expansion project.

My DJ-MTB is still my better scout bike due to available battery capacity, being smaller, lighter, and more nimble, cargo capacity setup, and my explorations often involve some hiking or technical trails in forests. I'd like an even lighter bike that was just as tough. The RCS is great for open terrain, sand, and mud conditions, although the extra power of the RCS is really handy on some tougher trails, if they are not too tight. It has surprised me on a couple in a a good way.

I really want by next e-bike to have a minimum of 1500Wh on-board. I think 2kWh would be crazy good.

I've not really discussed the torque based pedal-assist based system on the RCS vs the cadence sensor based system on my DJ-MTB. I guess I’m really still trying to understand it in my own mind. I'm really happy with both. For the first time e-bike rider, the torque sensor system on the RCS would definitely be easier to adjust to. I’ve adjusted well though to my cadence sensor, I have a low cadence, and unlike when I was young and my Nishiki lived in it's 12th gear, life has taken it's toll on me. Both bikes have a throttle to help me through the rough spots or when I’m in the wrong gear, or just don't feel like switching gears often.
Great review. I agree w most of your points. I wish I could figure out how to defeat the speed limiter so that I could throttle to 25mph. Prefer not to replace the controller. I wish the RC had the 1000w motor of the HS and the 36w controller. I might make that a project one day. I have the SondorLX coming w the Bafang ultra. Will be interesting to compare.
 

1Veteran

New Member
Poor man's bike horn!

Usually this problem is down to dirty brake pads, but you checked that, and that's not it. Disc brake calipers are very finicky, but especially low end ones like Juiced uses, and with the QR skewers that don't put wheels back in the same exact position (vs a thru axle). Maybe the caliper isn't grabbing the rotor just right. Every time I took the front wheel off the CCS I got brake rub when I replaced it.
Tried cleaning my pads a couple of ways. Finally replaced them w better version and that got rid of the horn. :)
 

1Veteran

New Member
I got my RCS a couple of months ago. I can not seem to get the brakes right. Both front and back brakes have a loud grinding noise and feel when applied firmly. I took it to the bike shop and they are not much better. I guess it is the pads. Anybody else have this problem?
Yes. Same issue. Bought better pads and no more noise. Have seen the same thing on a couple of bike forums so I think it is an industry problem. Tektro P20.11 Disc Brake Pads... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SD3W4CN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 

Uuzd4S

New Member
WoW, Explorer-1, the last time I'd commented within this forum, about my issues with Juiced and my RCS, I could only find a couple of others (and a Troll) who had written about it. . . Nice WriteUp!
My head wasn't converting your use of Kilometer's, and so, realizing I'd purchased my RCS on that very same Black Friday Sale that you did (Nov 17th, 2019), I added up the miles in my tracking App (Bikeometer) which is now just North of 7000 miles or 11,000+ Kilometers :) and Yes, after searching the reviews can truly say your WriteUp on the RCS mimics my personal experiences and that of many others who've chosen Juiced and the RCS.
I was compelled to comment about the Junk Front Forks which you mention as the 2nd item under "Components". Well, funny you mention that! . . . as this was my biggest point of contention with Juiced. They WERE crap and I only rode the bike twice before changing them to Bolany's as the stock "No Name" forks flexed so much during normal breaking the wheel would turn and the axle twisted NOTICEABLY, which was pretty scary. The Bolany was better by just enough and is still working. You only need a Blind Nut inst tool & a decent tubing cutter to cut the Straight Steer Tube . . . which was the limiting factor on Front Fork choices, Straight rather than a Tapered Steer Tube. Juiced warned me twice in e-mails NOT to take this bike off road and so the much higher quality Tapered Steer Tube Front Forks would just be a waste of money.
What brought me back to the Forum's after nearly two yrs of riding is the Flat Rear tire issues I'm trying to mitigate. I've nearly worn out 4 sets of street tires and am currently researching and going down the "Tannus Armor" Rabbit Hole : / If ur in need of specifics on the FF swap, no prob!
bw
 
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Explorer-1

Well-Known Member
…trying to mitigate. I've nearly worn out 4 sets of street tires and am currently researching and going down the "Tannus Armor" Rabbit Hole : / If ur in need of specifics on the FF swap, no prob!
bw
Hi, ya that front fork flexes like crazy and then the fender twists, I never clamp hard on the front brake, someone broke a fork doing that. Thanks so much for the help offer on the fork, i've never replaced one, but started following the other thread on here where a couple have done it. I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on a compatible fork, they are easier to find now, if a bit limited in selection. You can choose your stickers, but they are mostly the same fork. A couple true variations.

i'll have to do another update on the RCS soon, i had that mysterious odometer reset at just over 2500km when i turned on my bike one day. I've more than doubled the mileage now as my other bike sat idle until the week before last. I think you might still be ahead of me though by quite abit. You are doing good. I only ride on the weekends mostly.

I just changed the rear tire and tube on the RCS two-three weeks ago. It's been super reliable for me. This weekend i needed to do the Front, i decided to keep the tire and patch the tube in several places. Sometime next year i'll put the new tube and tire on. The rear tire replacement went quite smooth. The front tire was super tight, i had to use my metal tire leavers i use for my tubless tire segways and such. No way the tire was coming off or going on with my plastic levers. funny how it was so different than the rear tire.

I hope to test a 3rd party Reention battery in the wide frame before the end of Oct. if it works and looks nice, the max capacity would be 15Ah. With good cells that would make a nice second battery though for many, and is enough probably for the majority.