Just got the ultra eagle - getting used to the midrive?

roshan

Well-Known Member
It makes total sense. I can't really switch to slicks either because of the trails here but it's ok. Probably shouldn't be going that fast anyway haha
The MTB tires on the Eagle is not designed for high speed use. It is designed more for track and mix street use.
 

reed scott

Well-Known Member
It makes total sense. I can't really switch to slicks either because of the trails here but it's ok. Probably shouldn't be going that fast anyway haha
There are semi off road tires. More solid strip down the middle and you keep them on higher pressure when on pavement. Then somewhat reduced knobs on the margins and edge and with lower pressure will grip the dirt.
 

330rcs

Active Member
There are semi off road tires. More solid strip down the middle and you keep them on higher pressure when on pavement. Then somewhat reduced knobs on the margins and edge and with lower pressure will grip the dirt.

What tire pressures do you recommend on pavement? I was wondering about that. I am mostly on pavement but cut through trails/dirt/offroad for shortcuts.
 

reed scott

Well-Known Member
What tire pressures do you recommend on pavement? I was wondering about that. I am mostly on pavement but cut through trails/dirt/offroad for shortcuts.

You're talking to another noob. I know about such tires but have no direct knowledge. A tire seller could fill you in I'm sure.
 

330rcs

Active Member
You're talking to another noob. I know about such tires but have no direct knowledge. A tire seller could fill you in I'm sure.

Haha no worries! I am pretty sure I am going by what my bike shop recommended but a little higher I believe I'm at 20 psi front and rear. On the tire it says max 35 psi.
 

lordnox09

Member
Just got my bike back with the 50t chainring and this was definitely a missing piece that had me comparing it to my rear hub with the 52t. I don't feel like I'm "spinning my wheels" anymore. I used to feel crazy spinning the pedals so fast in the highest gear but lacking that same feel as the bigger chainring. Unless it's in my head I feel like I'm going farther and getting less tired (less pedal rotations?) compared to the smaller chainring. Just like how it is on my rear hub.

Anyway I'm happy with it now and keeping it. Not going to sell it. Infact I may even sell the rear hub and go with the Biktrix juggernaut fat tire next. I am starting to feel my juiced fat tire to feel "clunky" I'm feeling all the bumps in the road now, the riding style with high end components on the ultra compared to the low end components on my juiced bike is becoming real clear. I think it would have been stupid of me to get rid of the ultra eagle and keep the juiced bike. I'm really liking the torque as well on the ultra, which isn't there with the rear hub.

I have one question and this isn't related to the Biktrix in particular but in general. When I'm going really fast 30+ I feel something weird coming from the rear I dont know how to describe it, kind of want to say feels like some kind of "rubbing" but I have experienced this on my fat tire bike as well. Only happens when I'm going fast and I feel it from the rear not sure if it's just in my head or what that feeling is. Does anybody know what I'm talking about?
That's awesome to hear it literally is just a small learning curve mostly another thing I did was change my throttle to match whatever pas it's in for power it's really nice for just coasting along with my buddy I can just hold the throttle and the power does not cut out as I drop power to the cranks the problem I am having is range still I can keep it in pas1-3 and get 30-35km range and when I keep it in pas 9 the whole time and basically just use the throttle get the same 30-35km range and goes the same for both of my batteries one is 52v 17ah and other is 48v 21ah
 

lordnox09

Member
Haha no worries! I am pretty sure I am going by what my bike shop recommended but a little higher I believe I'm at 20 psi front and rear. On the tire it says max 35 psi.
Yeah I originally did 25 psi for both but now keep it at 15 psi but I am 50/50 trails and dirt I ride atleast 1hour of trails a day unless life happens and still think I could go a little lower these 33tpi tires are solid have like no give to them
 

330rcs

Active Member
That's awesome to hear it literally is just a small learning curve mostly another thing I did was change my throttle to match whatever pas it's in for power it's really nice for just coasting along with my buddy I can just hold the throttle and the power does not cut out as I drop power to the cranks the problem I am having is range still I can keep it in pas1-3 and get 30-35km range and when I keep it in pas 9 the whole time and basically just use the throttle get the same 30-35km range and goes the same for both of my batteries one is 52v 17ah and other is 48v 21ah

That's one thing I will continue tweaking is the programming settings. I haven't really tested my range but in level 1 it seems like its lasting pretty close to my 52v 19ah but of course less because it's 14ah. Now that I have all the major stuff sorted I can mess test how far I can go and in which mode etc I have ran out of power a couple times going by the percentage but now I know if I am going under 30% I need to head back. But I may switch it to the voltage reading and go by that since what's they recommend to go by as its the most accurate but I have seen what it does when it gets to 20% it will all of a sudden drop to 5% and 0% at any minute it did the same thing both times so I figure if I don't let it get to 20% I should be good. Normally on my 52v 19ah I can go downtown and back with a few bars remaining. When I went that far and back on the 14ah ultra I ran out of power about half a mile away from home. But I think I may have also been going in level 5 for a bit. But I am going to start testing range more now.
 

majorTom1983

New Member
I have been looking at the biktrix ultra eagle or frey CC vs the delfast partner or prime. I can't decide and it sounds like middrives are far less user friendly and rear hubs are far part of the bike then I thought. I'm familiar with riding mtbs and dirtbikes. I haven't ride since I sold my 09 stumpjumper a few yrs ago. Idk which way to go
 

330rcs

Active Member
I have been looking at the biktrix ultra eagle or frey CC vs the delfast partner or prime. I can't decide and it sounds like middrives are far less user friendly and rear hubs are far part of the bike then I thought. I'm familiar with riding mtbs and dirtbikes. I haven't ride since I sold my 09 stumpjumper a few yrs ago. Idk which way to go

Well I wouldn't necessarily compare my experience with yours. Do you already have a rear hub ebike? Or ever ridden one? I was already riding a rear hub ebike for 1.5 yrs as my primary form of transportation. So I was already accustomed to a particular riding style. If you don't already have a rear hub and you went for a mid drive you will probably not notice all the subtle differences that I did.
 

330rcs

Active Member
THE BEAST IS ALIVE FOR REAL NOW!!!

I updated my assist settings it still felt like it was lacking to me and I was still preferring the pedal assist on my rear hub. I complained often that I didn't like having to rely on the throttle so much!!! I don't have to on my rear hub and I didn't like that about this bike.

So in the programming settings in the assist tab there is KEEP CURRENT% this was set at 30% by DEFAULT. This is BS that means I am maxing out at 30% assist and this setting OVERRIDES the ASSIST settings in the BASIC Tab. So this was total GARBAGE for me!! So even though I had my assist set at 100 in the basic tab for level 9 it was USELESS!!!! While I was researching keep current % I came across a thread here:

"The big one is Keep Current(%) Setting this to 100% makes the PAS follow the % current on the basic page. This means 100% current setting on the Basic setting page will give you 100% throttle on PAS."

The person there explained how to setup your pedal assist according to the levels on your bike. So he said to change the KEEP CURRENT % to 100% and now the programming will use your ASSIST settings on the BASIC tab. I set it up just like he did and started at 15% and go all the way up to 100% for level 9.

This was the change I needed and now I don't need to rely on that freaking THROTTLE that I hated so much. I just wanred to use it as a boost!!! Not rely on it for my entire ride!! Now I can coast and pedal COMFORTABLY and stay in the upper 20 mph just like my rear hub. I went up to level 9 and holy crap!!!! WITHOUT THROTTLE I was cruising in the 30s. When I was going after it I was doing 35 mph with pedaling ONLY!!!! My max was 39 mph without holding down on the throttle.

It's too bad the owner didn't know this when I was communicating with him about the assist settings his reply was "why don't you just use the throttle?" I didnt even reply. I want to be able to use and ride the bike how I want to!!!!!!

If you make this change just know that obviously in the highest mode in level 9 with 100% assist you will kill your battery but I just went out for a little bit and had an absolute BLAST and came back tired at 90% but of course the percentage is not accurate and I probably actually killed 30% battery life but I was pushing it for fun.
 
Last edited:

reed scott

Well-Known Member
THE BEAST IS ALIVE FOR REAL NOW!!!

I updated my assist settings it still felt like it was lacking to me and I was still preferring the pedal assist on my rear hub. I complained often that I didn't like having to rely on the throttle so much!!! I don't have to on my rear hub and I didn't like that about this bike.

So in the programming settings in the assist tab there is KEEP CURRENT% this was set at 30% by DEFAULT. This is BS that means I am maxing out at 30% assist and this setting OVERRIDES the ASSIST settings in the BASIC Tab. So this was total GARBAGE for me!! So even though I had my assist set at 100 in the basic tab it was USELESS!!!! While I was researching keep current % I came across a thread here:

"The big one is Keep Current(%) Setting this to 100% makes the PAS follow the % current on the basic page. This means 100% current setting on the Basic setting page will give you 100% throttle on PAS."

The person there explained how to setup your pedal assist according to the levels on your bike. So he said to change the KEEP CURRENT % to 100% and now the programming will use your ASSIST settings on the BASIC tab. I set it up just like he did and started at 15% and go all the way up to 100% for level 9.

This was the change I needed and now I don't need to rely on that freaking THROTTLE that I hated so much. I just wanred to use it as a boost!!! Not rely on it for my entire ride!! Now I can coast and pedal COMFORTABLY and stay in the upper 20 mph just like my rear hub. I went up to level 9 and holy crap!!!! WITHOUT THROTTLE I was cruising in the 30s. When I was going after it I was doing 35 mph with pedaling ONLY!!!!

It's too bad the owner didn't know this when I was communicating with him about the assist settings his reply was "why don't you just use the throttle?" I didnt even reply. I want to be able to use and ride the bike how I want to!!!!!!

If you make this change just know that obviously in the highest mode in level 9 with 100% assist you will kill your battery but I just went out for a little bit and had an absolute BLAST and came back tired at 90% but of course the percentage is not accurate and I probably actually killed 30% battery life but I was pushing it for fun.
Biktrix is in a bind here. Darned if they do and darned if they don't. Seems they are erring way to far on the side of caution. They're turning out bikes with settings that make the bike a dog. Yeah you can get a cable and a windows machine and maybe search out the proper settings. Screw that. They should sell the bike the way the customer wants it. Make them sign a disclaimer or something if you are worried about liability. Motorcycle manufacturers don't cut the power of their bikes by half or more before they let them out to the public. :confused: Actually it's probably the warranty issue they are most concerned with. Keep your frigging warranty. Give me a bike that can do what it's built to be capable of. If I break it I'll fix it.
 
THE BEAST IS ALIVE FOR REAL NOW!!!

I updated my assist settings it still felt like it was lacking to me and I was still preferring the pedal assist on my rear hub. I complained often that I didn't like having to rely on the throttle so much!!! I don't have to on my rear hub and I didn't like that about this bike.

So in the programming settings in the assist tab there is KEEP CURRENT% this was set at 30% by DEFAULT. This is BS that means I am maxing out at 30% assist and this setting OVERRIDES the ASSIST settings in the BASIC Tab. So this was total GARBAGE for me!! So even though I had my assist set at 100 in the basic tab for level 9 it was USELESS!!!! While I was researching keep current % I came across a thread here:

"The big one is Keep Current(%) Setting this to 100% makes the PAS follow the % current on the basic page. This means 100% current setting on the Basic setting page will give you 100% throttle on PAS."

The person there explained how to setup your pedal assist according to the levels on your bike. So he said to change the KEEP CURRENT % to 100% and now the programming will use your ASSIST settings on the BASIC tab. I set it up just like he did and started at 15% and go all the way up to 100% for level 9.

This was the change I needed and now I don't need to rely on that freaking THROTTLE that I hated so much. I just wanred to use it as a boost!!! Not rely on it for my entire ride!! Now I can coast and pedal COMFORTABLY and stay in the upper 20 mph just like my rear hub. I went up to level 9 and holy crap!!!! WITHOUT THROTTLE I was cruising in the 30s. When I was going after it I was doing 35 mph with pedaling ONLY!!!! My max was 39 mph without holding down on the throttle.

It's too bad the owner didn't know this when I was communicating with him about the assist settings his reply was "why don't you just use the throttle?" I didnt even reply. I want to be able to use and ride the bike how I want to!!!!!!

If you make this change just know that obviously in the highest mode in level 9 with 100% assist you will kill your battery but I just went out for a little bit and had an absolute BLAST and came back tired at 90% but of course the percentage is not accurate and I probably actually killed 30% battery life but I was pushing it for fun.
Can you post your four settings tabs please...

Thanks!
 

330rcs

Active Member
Biktrix is in a bind here. Darned if they do and darned if they don't. Seems they are erring way to far on the side of caution. They're turning out bikes with settings that make the bike a dog. Yeah you can get a cable and a windows machine and maybe search out the proper settings. Screw that. They should sell the bike the way the customer wants it. Make them sign a disclaimer or something if you are worried about liability. Motorcycle manufacturers don't cut the power of their bikes by half or more before they let them out to the public. :confused: Actually it's probably the warranty issue they are most concerned with. Keep your frigging warranty. Give me a bike that can do what it's built to be capable of. If I break it I'll fix it.

I don't know what the deal is but they might not even know about that setting honestly. It doesn't make sense because they do give you full 100% throttle. They actually have it set in the aggressive mode by default. Which means if you peg the throttle you will wheelie which is what happened to me I had to change this setting for smooth acceleration instead of immediate.

The reason I don't think they know is that in their documentation it's vague on what the setting is it just says basically "30% will be more efficient and 80% will eat your battery" there's no mention that setting it to 100% will make the basic tab settings follow the assist like that poster explained. These could also be factory settings and not what Biktrix set themselves.

I think it's stupid to give you full throttle but limit your assist to 30% then your pedaling can't match your throttle. Imagine you're pedaling and getting limited at 30% throttle and then you press the throttle and going 100% the pedaling feels weird it's like if you want more than 30% assist let's say 50% your pedaling won't get you there so you have to hold down the throttle to go faster and this is the reason I kept staying on the throttle.

Now I can pedal to go as fast as I want and not have to push down on a button. It feels more natural to riding a bike when you're pedaling to go fast than pushing a button to me.
 

330rcs

Active Member
Latest settings I only have 3 tabs on mine
 

Attachments

  • 3718AB56-B502-464C-A198-A38163BAB824.png
    3718AB56-B502-464C-A198-A38163BAB824.png
    44.8 KB · Views: 98
  • DA8CDFE1-1BE9-4FD5-A733-2438D8DE9D0B.png
    DA8CDFE1-1BE9-4FD5-A733-2438D8DE9D0B.png
    207.7 KB · Views: 96
  • 08CD21E6-6835-4060-93CB-533F889AB7E8.png
    08CD21E6-6835-4060-93CB-533F889AB7E8.png
    69.7 KB · Views: 92

Clark Gryphyn

New Member
This makes me want to look at my settings again, but I feel like that is how my bike is set up. Have never felt like the pedal assist wasn't doing its job.
 

Bigjerk43

New Member
This makes me want to look at my settings again, but I feel like that is how my bike is set up. Have never felt like the pedal assist wasn't doing its job.
Idk I just got back from a camping trip where I put 30 miles thru all terrains in the woods in florida and the eagle performed perfect