Known Issues & Problems with Magnum Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

Trail Cruiser

Well-Known Member
Hi all, I have a Magnum metro+ that has been constantly breaking rear hub spokes. Im 170 pounds so its not an overweight or loading issue. Has anyone else had issues with rear spokes with this model?

Since you are 170 lbs, you can try to lower your rear tire pressure to 45 psi and try to avoid potholes or other rough patches at high speed.
 

Hayley_US

New Member
Thanks for the replies. Pressure is the recommended. Its the back only. I had it fixed once and then another couple went at the hub side. I had a talk with the lbs a few days ago and they said its the only model they have had spoke issues with so thought I would ask. I ride on sealed bike track but its not perfectly flat. I guess I will keep persevering.
 

Epic Mike

New Member
I had no issues. I keep my tire pressure between 55 to 60psi with my stock tires. Then again, most of my rides are on smooth asphalt.

I hope you are not running the metro+ at only 55psi as the max is 85 so you shouldn't be less then 70psi honestly.
 

Epic Mike

New Member
Hi all, I have a Magnum metro+ that has been constantly breaking rear hub spokes. Im 170 pounds so its not an overweight or loading issue. Has anyone else had issues with rear spokes with this model?

popping spokes I'd contact magnum the wheels arrive to our facility prebuilt but we would still fix the issue for you.
 

MetroDuck

Member
I’ve put 170 miles on my metro plus in the first month and have not had any spoke issues. I’m 220 and keep my tires at 75 psi.
 

Trail Cruiser

Well-Known Member
Did any body check their spoke tension? The manufacturer recommends to check the tightness of the spokes after about 1 month. I just ran my fingers over the spokes and it felt like some of them are loose. I will tighten them next time when I have the chance.
 
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adcockj

New Member
I have a Peak that I bought in March, and it died a month ago (booted up fine, but no power PAS or throttle). After a long wait ( a month), the LBS got a new display because the Minus button on the control pad had swollen up and wouldn't press. (I think they replaced the display more than once, along with replacing the controller, so I don't know what actually caused my original problem, or if my original display had this swollen button.)

When I went to pick up the bike, I noticed that the replacement display only had one brake cutout cable, so they took a Peak display from a bike on the floor. It also had a swollen minus button. They took one from another bike that wasn't swollen and installed that. It worked briefly, but soon after the minus button had swollen up and wouldn't work -- I didn't see it happen or smell it burning because I wasn't expecting it to happen. There appears to be something in the circuitry that's burning out this button (not just on my Peak, since one of the new bikes on their floor was also bad).

So now my bike is back at the LBS...soon it will have been in the shop more than I've had it at home.

Has anyone else seen this? Any idea what might be causing the problem?
 

Ryno

Member
I have a Peak that I bought in March, and it died a month ago (booted up fine, but no power PAS or throttle). After a long wait ( a month), the LBS got a new display because the Minus button on the control pad had swollen up and wouldn't press. (I think they replaced the display more than once, along with replacing the controller, so I don't know what actually caused my original problem, or if my original display had this swollen button.)

When I went to pick up the bike, I noticed that the replacement display only had one brake cutout cable, so they took a Peak display from a bike on the floor. It also had a swollen minus button. They took one from another bike that wasn't swollen and installed that. It worked briefly, but soon after the minus button had swollen up and wouldn't work -- I didn't see it happen or smell it burning because I wasn't expecting it to happen. There appears to be something in the circuitry that's burning out this button (not just on my Peak, since one of the new bikes on their floor was also bad).

So now my bike is back at the LBS...soon it will have been in the shop more than I've had it at home.

Has anyone else seen this? Any idea what might be causing the problem?
Sorry to hear that, It sounds pretty weird. I just looked at mine and the only thing i can think of is the allen screw. It is centered behind the minus button and seems like it could drive into the minus button if over tightened. Hope you get it resolved soon.
Ryan
 
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Citycrosser

Active Member
I’ve put 170 miles on my metro plus in the first month and have not had any spoke issues. I’m 220 and keep my tires at 75 psi.

Over 1,000 miles on my Metro+, I weigh 190 lbs plus laptop and gear puts me over 200 lbs, tires at 75 psi, no issues with rear spokes. I will check the tension tonight though!
 

Oldbkr

Active Member
This is my first bike with disc brakes. They squeal pretty good on a gradual stop.Ive been reading up on disc breaks and apparently they have to "bed in". If I made a hard stop not much sound. Just wondering how long it may take for them go break in. I am more of a gradual breaker than a panic stopper:) Thanks
 

Figs

Active Member
Hey Oldbkr. I had some squal with my front. Try taking the wheel off, and the putting it pack on. Sometimes they are a little off because the wheel is no evenly seated. Might help, did for mine.

Good luck!
 

adcockj

New Member
I have a Peak that I bought in March, and it died a month ago (booted up fine, but no power PAS or throttle). After a long wait ( a month), the LBS got a new display because the Minus button on the control pad had swollen up and wouldn't press. (I think they replaced the display more than once, along with replacing the controller, so I don't know what actually caused my original problem, or if my original display had this swollen button.)

When I went to pick up the bike, I noticed that the replacement display only had one brake cutout cable, so they took a Peak display from a bike on the floor. It also had a swollen minus button. They took one from another bike that wasn't swollen and installed that. It worked briefly, but soon after the minus button had swollen up and wouldn't work -- I didn't see it happen or smell it burning because I wasn't expecting it to happen. There appears to be something in the circuitry that's burning out this button (not just on my Peak, since one of the new bikes on their floor was also bad).

So now my bike is back at the LBS...soon it will have been in the shop more than I've had it at home.

Has anyone else seen this? Any idea what might be causing the problem?

I got my bike back today...appears to be fully operational. Apparently, Magnum had a batch of bad switches. Got another new display/switch panel installed and back in business.
BTW...the programming code for setting parameters was previously 8306, but the code for this new display (at least the one they installed on my bike) is 8088.
 

MetroDuck

Member
Must be a new batch on all of this years bikes. We just picked up a brand new Magnum Cruiser Saturday and it has the 8088 code too.
 

Glenn in NZ

New Member
Hi All, have done around 3000kms on my peak, just went to turn it on after a week of non use, the display flashed, then went dead. Battery LEDs tell me it is fully charged. Have checked all connections to the display, no go. Took battery off and put back on. No go. Pull battery off put on charger. Charger shows green ie fully charged. Place back on bike. Again display will flash then go dead. Any ideas?
 

Mike's E-Bikes

Well-Known Member
Hi All, have done around 3000kms on my peak, just went to turn it on after a week of non use, the display flashed, then went dead. Battery LEDs tell me it is fully charged. Have checked all connections to the display, no go. Took battery off and put back on. No go. Pull battery off put on charger. Charger shows green ie fully charged. Place back on bike. Again display will flash then go dead. Any ideas?
Could be a) failed display, b) failed controller, or c) issue with wiring harness. Magnum technical support or your LBS is best bet for resolving, rather than trying to diagnose here via the forum. They'll be back open Weds.
 
Have 2 year old magnum U I 5. Love it. Approximately 800 trouble free miles. BUT recently have encountered power surge on three separate occasions. When standing, not riding, with power on, and not touching throttle or pedal, bike has jumped away from me. Able to get it back under control only by shutting off power.

Dangerous situation. Most recent occurrence pulled me into traffic. Other times had to throw bike to ground

Anybody experience any thing similar? My only solution, now is to shut off power when stopping at crosswalk, or holding bike when paused .
 

Figs

Active Member
Hold the left brake lever in a little after you stop, that will cut the motor. I do it automatically as a safety measure.

As far as why your bike is doing this, perhaps you are moving the pedal a tiny bit and unaware you are doing it. I was walking my bike one time and unintentionally bumped the pedal. It nearly jumped away from me. That’s when I developed the left brake lever habit.

Could also of course be an issue with the electronics, or sensors.

I got around 1700 miles on my Ui6, and love it.
 

Oldbkr

Active Member
I had a similar problem once Found out as I was tweaking the cockpit I had partially moved the throttle thumb control and the display too close together. It partially engaged at times with my hand on the grip. Sounds weird but really did happen...I was a real newbie at the time?
 

MetroDuck

Member
Hold the left brake lever in a little after you stop, that will cut the motor. I do it automatically as a safety measure.

As far as why your bike is doing this, perhaps you are moving the pedal a tiny bit and unaware you are doing it. I was walking my bike one time and unintentionally bumped the pedal. It nearly jumped away from me. That’s when I developed the left brake lever habit.

Could also of course be an issue with the electronics, or sensors.

I got around 1700 miles on my Ui6, and love it.

This is exactly what I do. Always keep one of the brakes partially depressed at stop lights. I also use the brake cutoff technique when want to slowly approach a stop. It allows me to partially pedal without the motor launching me forward. It other words, like riding with the assist at zero.
 

oren8714

New Member
Hello all,

I have 1 year Magnum peak 48V 27.5 , week ago it started to have problems , motor stop work during cycle etc..
but currently I have a problem that motor goes well with hand throttle but not going with pedals , more than that , I cant see the speed read on the LCD , always zero , with throttle and will normal pedal , always zero .
I tried :
1. several changes in the LCD configuration (DAS-KIT C7) , size of wheel , power, everything - no change.
2. tried to check and reconnect all connectors from controller/LCD , include break sensors , everything , all ok- doesn't help
3. I even replaced the PAS on the peddle to another original one - doesn't help

much appreciate some help and suggestion