Known Issues & Problems with Rad Power Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

mrgold35

Well-Known Member
I've had the same issue since 2016 with my Rover. I just adjust to make sure I can reach the upper gears since I mostly work commute and need top speed. Using PAS 2/3 and throttle helps compensate for not accessing 1st gear. Most of the time, 2nd gear takes care of 99% of my low gear situations.

I also have the same issue of mid-gears "clicking" and wanting to jump to the next gear. It helps sometimes to go up two gears and back down one to eliminate the clicking.

I'm thinking about upgrading the gear cable with something from JagWire. I replaced my brake cables with JagWire (along with Spykes brakes) and that cut my weekly brake adjustments down to every 6-8 weeks intervals.
 

Hallonskalle

New Member
I've had the same issue since 2016 with my Rover. I just adjust to make sure I can reach the upper gears since I mostly work commute and need top speed. Using PAS 2/3 and throttle helps compensate for not accessing 1st gear. Most of the time, 2nd gear takes care of 99% of my low gear situations.

I also have the same issue of mid-gears "clicking" and wanting to jump to the next gear. It helps sometimes to go up two gears and back down one to eliminate the clicking.

I'm thinking about upgrading the gear cable with something from JagWire. I replaced my brake cables with JagWire (along with Spykes brakes) and that cut my weekly brake adjustments down to every 6-8 weeks intervals.
Okay hm, but it feels like if you buy a brand new bike for 1700 EURO the gears should work good no?
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
I would think if the gears on a new bike weren't working properly, it was because I had done something incorrectly. My focus would be on figuring out what that something is.

If you loose patience and want somebody else to see what they can do about it, have them show you exactly what they did to fix the issue. Make it a learning experience?
 

Hallonskalle

New Member
I would think if the gears on a new bike weren't working properly, it was because I had done something incorrectly. My focus would be on figuring out what that something is.

If you loose patience and want somebody else to see what they can do about it, have them show you exactly what they did to fix the issue. Make it a learning experience?
Yes that is a good advice. I will bring it to someone who has experience with it and let them show me.

Except from the gearing issue I really like the bike, it is quite funny how everyone stares when you pedal around and some say "nice bike!" when you pass by haha.
 

johnny333

New Member
It is a pain Getting the cable length right.
This mite help. I almost like the old days when when they didn't use a ratchet.
Johnny 72+ and still moving but slow
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
One more thing, don't assume it's going to need adjusting. Some are fine right out of the box. Ride it first!
 

NeweBikeMan

New Member
Could be a few things. Assuming that the shifter is matched to the derailleur, the cable might have too much friction / be routed poorly. Check the routing of the cable, and if you can clean the cable. If that is not it check your high limit setting on the derailleur to make sure it is not over tightened (this can be caused by a bent hanger and then you over adjust for that and the gears never align properly) and at the same time check the alignment of your hanger (if this is bent just bend it back straight or order a replacement). If none of the above is the cause, then I would change / upgrade the shifter to see if that fixes it. Just my $0.02...
 

accm

New Member
Rad mini 2019 motor have more power when is full charge. harder and harder to paddle when the battery drains. is this normal ?
 

captain wavy

New Member
4000 miles on a Radwagon here- Keep your spokes tight and true. Keep your chain oiled and have regular tune ups for your derailleur system. Upgrades on derailleur and seat advised. Additional lights a must.
My biggest issue has been spoke breakage. Otherwise it's all good. I ride 40+ miles daily, all hills.
what he said ! my new rad wagon has 200 miles on it , im 300 lbs & losing weight ,im a past bike tech motorcycle guy my first issue was the loose spokes , i do this is due to the extreme angle on the rear hub , the first go around was 1/2 turn on all spokes which tightend it up , 2 more days retighten 1/4 turn & zip tied the apex of the spokes where they meet [ old raceing trick ] & the spokes have stayed tight & true sence then ! i hope this helps others , so impressed with 4000 miles on a rad keep up the good work barkme !
 

johnny333

New Member
I have had my Radcity for about 6 months. I did the 1/2 turn on the spokes. Have a little over1000 miles. Finding a seat and lock has been my problem at 73 my rear end get sore at about 30 miles and riding in the rain is a pain with glass. I don't start out in the rain but in Florida I will get in the rain. But I think for the money it can't be beat. Would like to have a neat paint job on it but don't want to take the time of having it down. It to much fun riding it. Plus I don't get speeding tickets on it like my Miata. Parks tools has a lot of video on how to work on them.
Johnny333 73 and still ticking
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
I had an "incident" with my 'City this evening. While driving over a rough section of terrain (nothing dramatic, I was still seated), the seat post, one of those cheap aftermarket ones with the spring built into it, broke right off without warning. Right wher it enters the bike frame. Silly me for trusting something like that. I'm pretty sure my 300lbs was a factor, and it did make it about 500 miles. Have switched back to the OEM post for the time being.
 

Chopperbill

Active Member
I had an "incident" with my 'City this evening. While driving over a rough section of terrain (nothing dramatic, I was still seated), the seat post, one of those cheap aftermarket ones with the spring built into it, broke right off without warning. Right wher it enters the bike frame. Silly me for trusting something like that. I'm pretty sure my 300lbs was a factor, and it did make it about 500 miles. Have switched back to the OEM post for the time being.
Thanks for the heads up about those cheap posts. I’ve got one and I sometimes worry about it. Im at 230 and I worry about the screw in seat spring plug. Keep waiting for it to pop out.
 

mrgold35

Well-Known Member
I had an "incident" with my 'City this evening. While driving over a rough section of terrain (nothing dramatic, I was still seated), the seat post, one of those cheap aftermarket ones with the spring built into it, broke right off without warning. Right wher it enters the bike frame. Silly me for trusting something like that. I'm pretty sure my 300lbs was a factor, and it did make it about 500 miles. Have switched back to the OEM post for the time being.
I have both the 400mm Suntour SP-12 NCX (eBay, $100, 2016) and 420mm Bodyfloat v2 with orange springs (Cirrus website, on sale, $211 in 2017). Both of those worked perfectly for my 6'3" and +275lbs for the last 3 years. I know I'm well over 300lbs with winter riding gear and commuter backpack at around 25-30lbs. The Bodyfloat is the my favorite and the best for on or off road riding. Bodyfloat now makes an heavy duty version for +300 riders.

Kinekt 2.1 Aluminum XL2 $280:
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Thanks mrgold. Struggling to justify spending that kind of money for a seat post. That's why I was trying to get away with a cheap one. Clearly that was a waste of money!
 

Papajani

New Member
Thanks mrgold. Struggling to justify spending that kind of money for a seat post. That's why I was trying to get away with a cheap one. Clearly that was a waste of money!
Here's a copy of what I posted a while back about seat posts...


Papajani

New Member

Nov 27, 2018
I'm not sure how Rad figured that the stock seatpost will fit a 6'2" rider. I'm 6'1" and found the stock seatpost to be too short so I replaced it with a 450mm seatpost. Due to the additional length putting more leverage on the seatpost just above the quick release i could see it starting to bend. Eventually it broke when I hit a bump. I found a 12" x 7/8" OD aluminum rod on Amazon for about $10 that I inserted into yet another new 450mm seatpost. Problem solved.