I know this is right out of nowhere, but upon riding my old bike long ago, It was a 1000w system. It had a 48v 10.4ah battery, 1000w controller and motor. But I upgraded it a while back. It now has a 52v 17.5ah battery, and the controller and motor stayed the same. But I had to take the controller PCB out of it's metal box, cut the old wires and add on thicker ones. Overtime it was great, but the pcb starting glowing red where the negative terminal was connected. I noticed, and went low power limping it home. I replaced the burned connections, and attached them to the bottom of the board. It worked for a moment, but it just shutoff with warning. I turned the battery off, then on, and repeated it and heard pops. I looked and the MOSFETS, two of them just popped and the motor was juddering violently. I had to pedal it 5mph bike home as it wouldn't start up anymore. When I got home, I didn't know what to do. I took it apart and put it back and it sounded normal again. I bought a new controller for it, and this time a 1200w controller, but the motor won't listen. I keep hearing a pop noise from it when I turn on the bike. The display is a kt-lcd3 screen and the controller's from a site called ebikeling. I was hoping it'd work, but nothing. Any ideas on what else to do? I'm still upset I wasted 45$ on a controller, and now 75$ on a new throttle and display knowing my motor's basically dead altogether and i'll have to give up and throw it all away because I don't get any support getting money for these expensive ebikes in the world. Basically it starts up, but the battery level won't display how much juice I have yet the battery's at 58v, so it's fine on that. Normally the motor temp(which isn't needed) is supposed to say 59F, but it's showing 32F now. But I did give this bike almost 8100 miles since it's odometer reset long ago. Just to give proof, here's a snapshot of my bike long ago hitting 6,138 miles before it reset, and the new distance before it hit it's end.