motor quits upon initial throttle twist

Ccount

Member
Hello Forum,

As you know, I have a RadRunner, with upgrades including (what is relevant only) EBW 35 amp controller and color display, and a true 1000w Baffang motor. I have played for hours with all of the settings, trying to get things right, and at one time all worked well. Never being satisfied, I played some more, and apparently set an incorrect or conflicting setting. I have the long manual, the short manual, and have watched the Bolton video, but cannot seem to nail the issue. I am looking for the easy out, hoping one of you can help me troubleshoot this issue:

When I accelerate from a standing start with the throttle ONLY, the motor engages and starts, the bike moves forward, but then cuts out (on any PAS level), and will not respond to any throttle input. If I pedal simultaneously with throttle, it behaves normally some times. If I start with throttle only, and it dies, peddling will not revive it, BUT a back pedal will revive it! However, if I give it hard throttle again, only, it dies. I can milk it up to 10 MPH and up (everything is fine from there) by slow acceleration, pedaling and back pedaling. I am certain I have set a function incorrectly in the controller, but cannot seem to locate it.

Any help would be appreciated! If necessary, I may just reset and start from ground zero, but i am hoping to not do that!
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Write down ALL of your current parameter settings (C and P), then do a reset (10=y) and start over again. It may not completely fix whatever you have going on, but hopefully it will give you some direction.

Usually when they quit like that it's a bad connection or it has something to do with a partial charge and the LVC (low voltage cutoff) shutting things down when there's a big voltage sag (like you might get with a handfull of throttle).
 

Ccount

Member
Thanks! That is the plan! By the way, do Baffang motors have temp sensors in them? I turned on that option, and I get a constant 59 degrees F reading, and I did not know if there was something else needed to activate that function?
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Not positive written in concrete, but I don't think there's a temp sensor. Turning that on in the display does you no good.
 

legsofbeer

Active Member
When I accelerate from a standing start with the throttle ONLY, the motor engages and starts, the bike moves forward, but then cuts out (on any PAS level), and will not respond to any throttle input.

Check your C4 setting. From my notes on Bolton's video:

c4: throttle options "0" always on, "1" limited to 6kph until pedalling

also check P4:

p4: "0" throttle always on, "1" disables from stop

The motor temp display on my 2019 radrover also always reads 59 degrees.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
If you turn that motor temp off (C8=0), it will read ambient temp which might provide something useful.
 

ebikebob

Member
Thanks! That is the plan! By the way, do Baffang motors have temp sensors in them? I turned on that option, and I get a constant 59 degrees F reading, and I did not know if there was something else needed to activate that function?
Hi did you figure out what is wrong? I have a different brand bike but the symptoms are the same. I can not tell if this throttle not always activating issue is a feature that can be controlled by a settings change or a flaw with the controller.
 

BKing

Member
I think there is a setting for the direction of pedaling since the sensor might be on either side depending on the bike.
 

ebikebob

Member
Well, I've got a stumper for you guys. Using LCD 861, with a 750 W gearless rear hub MXUS motor, basic tektro hydraulic brakes.
I see this "Power brake handle" malfunction light come on. This warning light sometimes turns off.
What does this mean and does it have anything to do with throttle issues? I'm wondering if my hydraulic brakes are ever so slightly hitting the wheels occasionally, and triggering the throttle to cut out?
The throttle and the pedal assist work half the time, and always together. Meaning, both work or neither work.
If I turn off the bike's LCD, then restart sometimes they work again.
Any chance of an easy fix, or is this a controller issue that needs to be replaced?
 

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AHicks

Well-Known Member
That "power brake handle" light is likely telling you there's an issue with one or both of the switches in each of the brake handles. These are designed to kill power to the motor when you engage either front or rear brake.

My understanding is that some systems will error out if the power is turned on with a brake handle pulled.

Otherwise, I would disconnect both of those switches for troubleshooting purposes. Then see if your issue persists or changes.
 

ebikebob

Member
That "power brake handle" light is likely telling you there's an issue with one or both of the switches in each of the brake handles. These are designed to kill power to the motor when you engage either front or rear brake.

My understanding is that some systems will error out if the power is turned on with a brake handle pulled.

Otherwise, I would disconnect both of those switches for troubleshooting purposes. Then see if your issue persists or changes. Whenever the malfunction light is on, the throttle is killed.
Thank you very much. You are right. I realized that the brakes, when engaged, kill power to the motor so the throttle doesn't work. That's a good safety feature. But the malfunction light is on (75% of the time) even when the brakes are not being engaged at all. So I can ride the bike but without any pedal assist or throttle. Totally manual.

So I disconnected the brake switches as you said and the warning light went off. Now the throttle works reliably.

Question is, how do I fix the problem of the LCD thinking the brake power switches are engaged when they clearly aren't physically being engaged. Would hydraulic brakes that are ever so slightly grazing the wheel cause this issue? It doesn't seem to me that the brakes are misaligned. Incidentally, if I leave the right brake switch connected, but disconnect the left, the throttle works. It seems the left side is the bigger problem. At present, I have simply disconnected the left brake switch but I'd like to fix the underlying problem if someone can tell me what to do :>
 

legsofbeer

Active Member
I have simply disconnected the left brake switch but I'd like to fix the underlying problem if someone can tell me what to do
The problem is in the left brake lever on the handlebar. Take it apart and figure out why it is false activating. Brake pads contacting the disc are very unlikely to have anything to do with the problem.
 

AguassissiM

Well-Known Member
@ebikebob

The magnetic switch in the lever is getting stuck , or it just too close to the magnet and gets falsely activated. Check if the connection to the lever is tight to make sure that the sensor is not self adjusting as you ride, if all is ok then the sensor is more than likely sticking as mine was at one time, my service provider advised me to change the sensor however me being stubborn decided to take it head on. Pulled it out of the lever, connected the plug end to a Ohm meter and got a steady beeeep signal than took the sensor and wacked it couple of times on the edge of a table and that made the beeeep sound to go away, got a small magnet and passed it over the sensor and got the beeeep working again.
That was 6 months ago and it is still working as it used to.
Here is a picture of the offending sensor all fixed.
 

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