My battery is stuck won't disconnect!

330rcs

Active Member
I think my battery might have gone dead was riding today and I have been riding this bike for 1.5 yrs I have never ran out of battery even in R mode I get too tired by 3-4 bars and have to go back home. Well after not even 10 miles today my battery meter starts flashing and the voltage numbers are jumping all over the place. I left with full power.

I lost all motor power and had to walk my bike home. I just put it on the charger but it seems so far after an hour or two the battery doesn't seem to be charging but I will confirm in the morning.

So I thought let me take the battery out and disconnect it from the bike and put it back. I'm using my key and no matter how much I turn in either direction the battery will not budge. It's been a while since I have taken it off probably a year or so. I always charge the battery on the bike. A couple times I have taken it off if I went somewhere far and was going to spend some time there so I brought it inside. So I have taken it off before. It just won't come off anymore.

What should I do? It seems like it could be the locking mechanism not working properly? Should I call a locksmith? I don't know what to do. If my battery is dead and I need to order a new one how am I going to get this one off? Maybe a locksmith can bypass the locking mechanism to release it? It has to be the only way otherwise too much force might brake the actual charging ports or battery holder etc I even tried putting a screwdriver under the edge but it's not budging and I don't want to keep trying that.
 

PDXzap

Well-Known Member
Try pushing the battery in as hard as you can, the same direction you would push to lock it, and see if that lets you turn the key to unlock the battery.
 

330rcs

Active Member
Try pushing the battery in as hard as you can, the same direction you would push to lock it, and see if that lets you turn the key to unlock the battery.

Just tried it didn't work and I'm able to turn the key it just won't disengage the battery
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
Sounds like you had a loose connection and the battery may have welded itself to the base at the connection point.
I think your only hope is to apply force forward and back until it breaks loose. You'll probably have to replace the connection point.
 

330rcs

Active Member
Sounds like you had a loose connection and the battery may have welded itself to the base at the connection point.
I think your only hope is to apply force forward and back until it breaks loose. You'll probably have to replace the connection point.

OK I hope juiced sells it. I will have to wait for their support to reply. I wonder if thats the reason my battery is dead or acting all crazy with voltage jumping around and battery meter flashing, because it welded itself and one of the connections is messed up now. It seems like it did weld itself. I suppose it's the Colorado sun I have had a pressure washer attachment weld itself together in the sun out here in one afternoon and I was never able to get it off.

Anyway since it looks like there's no other option here I will prob wait for juiced to reply for the next step but I suppose I'll have to start getting aggressive with it. No other choice but to break it off it seems.

Can anybody tell me which direction you turn the key, clockwise or counter clockwise to unlock the battery? Mine turns both ways will it unlock either way? I forgot but, I don't want to keep trying it if one way is wrong that way I'm not wasting time/energy.

Ever since I got this bike 1.5 yrs ago it's been one thing after another, fix one thing now it's something else. My bike was just in the shop for almost a month getting its front brake replaced and cassette and now not even a week later this happens. but I can't just let it go it's too much fun. It looks like I'm going to have to buy a new bike though and still keep this one and get it going again. Will be good to have two so whenever one is down I can have a backup.
 
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Bigal1463

Well-Known Member
Have someone hold the key in the unlocked position and with your two hands, try pushing and pulling the battery to release it or pushing the battery up and down. All the while someone is holding the key open. This may work.
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
OK I hope juiced sells it. I will have to wait for their support to reply. I wonder if thats the reason my battery is dead or acting all crazy with voltage jumping around and battery meter flashing, because it welded itself and one of the connections is messed up now. It seems like it did weld itself. I suppose it's the Colorado sun I have had a pressure washer attachment weld itself together in the sun out here in one afternoon and I was never able to get it off.

Anyway since it looks like there's no other option here I will prob wait for juiced to reply for the next step but I suppose I'll have to start getting aggressive with it. No other choice but to break it off it seems.

Can anybody tell me which direction you turn the key, clockwise or counter clockwise to unlock the battery? Mine turns both ways will it unlock either way? I forgot but, I don't want to keep trying it if one way is wrong that way I'm not wasting time/energy.

Ever since I got this bike 1.5 yrs ago it's been one thing after another, fix one thing now it's something else. My bike was just in the shop for almost a month getting its front brake replaced and cassette and now not even a week later this happens. but I can't just let it go it's too much fun. It looks like I'm going to have to buy a new bike though and still keep this one and get it going again. Will be good to have two so whenever one is down I can have a backup.

It didn't weld itself from the sun, but a loose connection... Much, much hotter.
Can you take a pic of the battery and one of the lock... I'm not familiar with your exact bike.
 

330rcs

Active Member
I got it off!! I used a screwdriver and jiggling it under the edge of the battery. But look at the connection port. Also look at the side. Are you sure the sun didn't have anything to do with it? The black casing is coming off from the side that sits in the frame. Or is that just from movement or something?

Anyway I connected the battery back to the bike and turned it on and the battery meter is at full bars I had it on the charger for couple hours last night but not all night. I hit the "walk" mode and the power assist came on but I immediately let it go and turned it off and took the battery off the bike and put it on the charger separately.

Is the connection port on the battery fixable? It's too dangerous to use the battery like this isn't it?
 

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Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
That is definitely a loose connection. I would not recommend operating the bike until you get both ends of the connection replaced.
If you were stuck on a desert island I would say you could very gently file off the melted plastic and use fine sandpaper/small file and contact cleaner to clean up the electrical connections... but at best it will only be a temporary fix.
You also run the risk of damaging your electronics with the voltage spikes... and then there's always the risk of fire.
 

330rcs

Active Member
That is definitely a loose connection. I would not recommend operating the bike until you get both ends of the connection replaced.
If you were stuck on a desert island I would say you could very gently file off the melted plastic and use fine sandpaper/small file and contact cleaner to clean up the electrical connections... but at best it will only be a temporary fix.
You also run the risk of damaging your electronics with the voltage spikes... and then there's always the risk of fire.

How/where do you get the connection replaced? The manufacturer will have to sell the part to me? Can just the port be replaced? How can this be prevented in the future? Try to take my battery out every chance I get?
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
.... I'll add if you are somewhat handy with electrical, you have enough room to work and a little bit of slack on the connector wires you may be able to replace the connection with something all together different like an xt60. This may make it tricky to slide the battery back into the mount... but since the connection will now be floating it should eliminate the problem of vibration and maybe not the best connectors.
 

330rcs

Active Member
.... I'll add if you are somewhat handy with electrical, you have enough room to work and a little bit of slack on the connector wires you may be able to replace the connection with something all together different like an xt60. This may make it tricky to slide the battery back into the mount... but since the connection will now be floating it should eliminate the problem of vibration and maybe not the best connectors.

No I'm barely handy with shoelaces let alone electrical. Here's what the port looks like on the bike. So both have to be changed? If it's just the screws then maybe I could do it just don't know if there is wiring possibly soldered behind it.
 

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Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
Best practice is to change both as the high temperature damaged both... if you only replace one side it will cause premature failure again.
It depends on the connector manufacturer as to whether or not wire leads are attached or not on the connector. If they are you may be able to butt splice if you have room to tuck the wires away. If not, you'll need to solder.
The best way to know your options is to dismantle both connectors and see what you have to work with.
That said, I would leave that to a professional. You are working with a lot of potential on the battery side.
 

330rcs

Active Member
Best practice is to change both as the high temperature damaged both... if you only replace one side it will cause premature failure again.
It depends on the connector manufacturer as to whether or not wire leads are attached or not on the connector. If they are you may be able to butt splice if you have room to tuck the wires away. If not, you'll need to solder.
The best way to know your options is to dismantle both connectors and see what you have to work with.
That said, I would leave that to a professional. You are working with a lot of potential on the battery side.

I'm not really sure who I can contact for that either. It's hard to find a bike shop to touch these type of bikes. I have a shop that will at least work on the mechanical many around here won't even do that but, there's no way they are going to do any of the electrical work. So do I need to find an electrician on Craigslist or something? I guess first thing is I need to see what the manufacturer says they should be able to let me know if the parts can be replaced or not.

Looks like I'm getting a new bike sooner than I expected
 

330rcs

Active Member
I'm going to go out and ride it and see what it does. Maybe for this damn thing to catch on fire will be the best thing for it to end this nightmare of a bike. Don't think I'm ever buying another Juiced bike. It was fun while it lasted but never again.
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
If you do do that... Try and clean up the connections. Be very careful with the battery side... again a lot of potential if you short it. If there's a switch on the battery... Make sure it is off.
If you are friendly with an auto mechanic they might be willing to do it for you as they do similar types of repairs.
I'm not familiar with your bike/battery but it is a common problem and shouldn't be to hard of a fix for someone with basic electrical skills.
 

PDXzap

Well-Known Member
...they should be able to let me know if the parts can be replaced or not.
There seems to be a lot of posts with this same problem from Jucied. Here's a search:

I also looks like you might be able to get new connectors(?):
 

Thomas Jaszewski

Well-Known Member
Hopefully the claimed new focus on support from Tora will get you sorted. This really should never happen!
 

330rcs

Active Member
Appreciate all the feedback here. I will go through and read up on the past issues. I took it out and the battery meter is going all over the place but I only went to grab some food and stop by a store real quick. It would get jerky sometimes probably due to power the meter goes down, sometimes to zero starts flashing and back up again. I might lose power for a second and then starts back up. Strange how I never lose power on the display itself just the motor.

- I cleaned up the ports with rubbing alcohol and a Q tip and let it dry before I took it out.

- I don't know what kind of support I will get considering its out of warranty. They aren't answering phone calls much these days due to "covid and extremely high call volume" so I am waiting for their email reply. I sent them pics of everything. I will say their support has always been helpful to me since day one.

I will be ordering the Biktrix Ultra Eagle with the bafang ultra mid drive soon. Until I can figure out this one or burn it on fire. My ebike is my only form of transportation so I can't be out of a ride for too long. I was already wanting a new bike but in my mind I was keeping this one too but, oh well let's see.
 
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330rcs

Active Member

Thanks for this I contacted that company and will send them pics. I guess I better stop riding it around now and potentially shorting it. If this is all I need and it can be replaced maybe I can order the parts and find somebody that can do it. I know an ebike guy around town that builds and fixes them.