My battery is stuck won't disconnect!

rich c

Well-Known Member
When a battery connection looks like that, the battery was likely loose on the bike. When you have no ability to work on the bike, nor have any shop to work on it, you should never order an internet sold only eBike. Only buy from an LBS. For this one, is there a Velofix franchise near enough for service?
 

330rcs

Active Member

They replied quick said they have the bike side battery connector but not the battery side its out of stock for another 5 weeks or so. Do you know what the part is called? Maybe I can look for it somewhere else.
 
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rich c

Well-Known Member
I would pick out all the melted plastic from around the pins, then use some super fine emery paper and wrap a little strip around the pins and pull it back and forth to polish the pins. But you still need to find out why the battery was not making a good connection. A bad connection there usually means the battery was not seated properly.
 

330rcs

Active Member
The good news is I found an ebike guy here that I spoke to for a while that said he could do the electrical work to fix it. Now I just need to find the parts. Waiting for Juiced to reply if I can get the parts from them
 

Bruce Arnold

Well-Known Member
Do a google search for Reention Dorado battery and see if you can find the parts, instead of waiting for Juiced to get them in stock.
 

Thomas Jaszewski

Well-Known Member
Unfortunately, batteries are seldom built with repairs in mind. My first Dolphin pack needed new connectors, very similar, but removing, replacing, and soldering in new connectors was no easy task. Very short wires to the failed connectors required more skills than the average eBike rider has for repairing. Parts are easy, mistakes can be monumental, IMO.
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
Also address the case coming apart. It's hard to tell what is going on in your photo but whether its from the sun or vibration, if it's not holding the battery securely the added movement at the connection point will lead to failure again.
 

330rcs

Active Member
Well believe it or not one of the quickest replies I'm getting with any real possible solutions is from Reention themselves! From googling somebody on this site had listed their email from a couple years ago - sale_04@reention.com I just tried to email them and they replied right away. They also have all the parts instock and will ship to USA. They said only one week but I guess we will see about that.

Can somebody please confirm if these are the right parts I need for the battery and bike side connectors? I told her it was the Reention Dorado model and this is what she came back with for me circled in red to confirm.
 

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330rcs

Active Member
I just ordered these parts I sent them pics and they said it looks like this is it they mentioned "atlas" which is what it says in my images above. They have it in stock so I ordered it. I hope I ordered the right parts it's the male and female end for the battery and downtube.


I paid extra for dhl shipping the set of connectors was only $6.50 so I paid under $30 with dhl shipping otherwise they have slower shipping (Its coming from China) if everything works out, I'll order extras with the slower shipping.
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
The manufacturer is the best to confirm but it looks good to me.
Then I'd see if you can find a way to eliminate any wiggle In the battery after it's locked in place.
Lastly.. Keeping it out of the strong sun is good for battery longevity as well if you think it's deforming the case.
I ride with some reflective insulation at times... But it is ugly. . Solar Radiation
 
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330rcs

Active Member
The manufacturer is the best to confirm but it looks good to me.
Then I'd see if you can find a way to eliminate any wiggle In the battery after it's locked in place.
Lastly.. Keeping it out of the strong sun is good for battery longevity as well if you think it's deforming the case.
I ride with some reflective insulation at times... But it is ugly. . Solar Radiation

Two places got back to me and one was the manufacturer so I'm ordering from both. From the manufacturer with shipping I'm getting 3 sets and it's $48 including overseas shipping.

I have no idea how I would stop it from wiggling it seemed like to me it was in there really good. When it was stuck in there, to me it wouldn't budge at all. Though it was melted in there. I don't really know much about electrical and if thats what you say that if the connection is loose causes this then it could be that I just don't notice any wiggle but could still be there.

Maybe just taking the battery out/off the bike more frequently and re-seating it / reconnecting might give it a more solid connection each time. Like I said I had not take the battery off in like a year. I'm in Colorado and I go off road a lot so I go over a lot of bumpy terrain and also the roads themselves are crappy everywhere so I'm always going over bumps and what not so maybe that's also knocking the battery around.

I am not so sure about the sun anymore. Due to the altitude here the sun is extremely strong. Originally I'm from TX and I've never been sun burned before until I got here. However I never really leave my bike out for unusually extended periods of time. Also if it was the sun wouldn't any other components on my bike be effected as well? I don't have any other signs of sun damage anywhere on my bike. Now like I said my bike was in the shop for like a month.

And I believe pretty much right when I got it from the shop it's been doing this. I have been riding around with the battery doing this for a couple weeks now or so. I just didn't know what the issue was until I lost all power for an extended period of time. Because several days ago when I took my bike out I looked at the battery meter and it was at 2 bars. I was thinking "I thought I put it on the charger last night". Then all of a sudden it went to full bars. While I have been riding it has felt jerky at times and that was the power voltage going all over the place. In my mind I thought it was the cadence sensor. I was going to take it back to the shop.

I don't know if at the shop they had it sitting outside for a long time but the connector is on the inside so if it was the sun how would that be effected before let's say the power button? That button doesn't have any signs of melting.
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
What I'm referring to as sun damage is the photo you posted of the battery case and what you said about it. Maybe expansion and contraction is playing a part here. I noticed a 50°f difference in case temperature here in the north east using the reflective insulation. I need to come up with a better looking solution.
The electrical connection was definitely loose and/or worn. Probably caused by movement going over bumps. There might not be much you can do about it without getting creative if it's just not in the design.
Reseating the battery periodically can help as you may notice a problem before it fails. But like anything, too much isn't good either as each mating wears connections as well... especially if they are not the best quality. Typically you'll start to see black carbon build up from arcing on the contacts that can be removed with electrical contact cleaner. Home depot has some.
You'll be back on the road soon enough... Enjoy.
 

330rcs

Active Member
What I'm referring to as sun damage is the photo you posted of the battery case and what you said about it. Maybe expansion and contraction is playing a part here. I noticed a 50°f difference in case temperature here in the north east using the reflective insulation. I need to come up with a better looking solution.
The electrical connection was definitely loose and/or worn. Probably caused by movement going over bumps. There might not be much you can do about it without getting creative if it's just not in the design.
Reseating the battery periodically can help as you may notice a problem before it fails. But like anything, too much isn't good either as each mating wears connections as well... especially if they are not the best quality. Typically you'll start to see black carbon build up from arcing on the contacts that can be removed with electrical contact cleaner. Home depot has some.
You'll be back on the road soon enough... Enjoy.

Didn't realize taking it out too much can do it too. I'll just do it enough to keep an eye on things. I was thinking if I came in from riding on a hot day to take it off would this be a good idea? is the external heat playing a factor in it melting? Combined with the heat from the battery? Or none of it really matters it all has to do with a loose connection?

This is after 1.5 yrs of using the bike as a full time commuter. I have to have over 5000 miles on it. I always reset the odometer accidently so don't know for sure but this is my only form of transportation. I bought extra connectors so I have them for the future.
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
Didn't realize taking it out too much can do it too. I'll just do it enough to keep an eye on things. I was thinking if I came in from riding on a hot day to take it off would this be a good idea? is the external heat playing a factor in it melting? Combined with the heat from the battery? Or none of it really matters it all has to do with a loose connection?

This is after 1.5 yrs of using the bike as a full time commuter. I have to have over 5000 miles on it. I always reset the odometer accidently so don't know for sure but this is my only form of transportation. I bought extra connectors so I have them for the future.

The in/out process will depend on the quality of the connector, so it's not something that you can easily quantify. On an industrial scale these types of devices actually have a rating. I'd say doing it monthly when it's cooled down would be a good start. But don't stress about it.
The external heat is not melting it at all. But things might be getting looser over time with expansion/contraction x bumps 🙃
 

J.R.

Well-Known Member
Didn't realize taking it out too much can do it too. I'll just do it enough to keep an eye on things. I was thinking if I came in from riding on a hot day to take it off would this be a good idea? is the external heat playing a factor in it melting? Combined with the heat from the battery? Or none of it really matters it all has to do with a loose connection?

This is after 1.5 yrs of using the bike as a full time commuter. I have to have over 5000 miles on it. I always reset the odometer accidently so don't know for sure but this is my only form of transportation. I bought extra connectors so I have them for the future.
I don't own one of these type of batteries. The way the battery plugs INTO the bike is very different to other in frame battery packs. Many have spring loaded contact points, not an actual male/female plug. There's added resistance in any contact point or plug. They all will heat up to a point with current flow.

The question I have is when you charge on the bike, does the charge current flow through the same plug? Or is there a separate charge port on the battery pack? If the charge current flows through the same plug (shown in your pics), I would remove the pack to charge. The reason is if the charge current flows through the same plug, you are heating it up every time you charge the bike. Given it is a weak point in the system, the less you heat it up the better.
 

330rcs

Active Member
The question I have is when you charge on the bike, does the charge current flow through the same plug? Or is there a separate charge port on the battery pack?

There is a seperate charge port on the outside of the battery. This port that melted is on the inside of the battery and downtube.
 
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