Tom@WashDC
Active Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Loudoun County, VA
Ok, Finally finished the project. Hit a few few small snags of my own making along the way. The kit was an easy install, nothing difficult. I took my time and tried to make a very clean and finished product.
One thing I did not want was a bunch of exposed zip ties on the frame, so I ran the main motor wiring harness through the base of the downtube up to the handlebars. I used grommets to seal the holes. After drilling any holes in the steel frame I used primer paint on the exposed metal, then painted again with black gloss paint. I wrapped some of the wiring with spiral wrap.
To eliminate exposed zip ties in the Speed Sensor install, I took a page from my Aventon Level e-bike and installed small zip tie holders mounted under or inside the bottom rail. Holders and screws are were primed and painted gloss black.
To manage the the battery, motor, and Shift sensor cable, I installed the seat post mounted controller box as a junction box. The battery to motor connections were coated in dielectric grease, and sealed with shrink tube and zip ties before closing the box.
A buddy of mine has the older version of the Bafang BBS02 motor and one of the problems that he and others have encountered is that the motor develops some play over time because the Bafang mounting bracket Bracket does not work perfectly. The new motor has the same bracket. In theory the bracket has small protrusions on the bracket side that mates to the bottom bracket. These protrusion are meant to "bite" into the bottom bracket when tightened. This should prevent the motor from moving, in theory. Evidence shows that the design is flawed and the motor/bracket develops play over time. My solution was to place a stainless steel hose clamp around the motor housing, and interlock it to a stainless steel hose clamp on the downtube. Both clamps were primed and painted. The clamp on the down tube sits on a rubber gasket covering the down tube. It may need tightening a few times as it may stretch. My future solution is to remove the motor bracket, and "pre-cut" grooves into the bottom bracket so the motor bracket protrusions can work as intended.
For the battery mount, I installed two additional anchor points in addition to the existing bottle bosses. I Installed two Aluminum Rivnuts, or Rivet Nuts into the downtube. I did not have a Rivnut tool, but I used a simple method I found in this YouTube video.
I have the Luna, 30 Tooth Mighty Mini chain ring, which I will install after my first real test drive. I reworked the brakes, adjusted the new Shimano Trigger Shifter, charged the battery, turned the system on, and everything worked seamlessly. Took it for a quick spin up and down the street. Works like a charm. The bike is much more powerful than my rear hub Aventon Level, which is an excellent bike. I will perform a major "off-road" test this week and get it covered in mud. ~Tom
One thing I did not want was a bunch of exposed zip ties on the frame, so I ran the main motor wiring harness through the base of the downtube up to the handlebars. I used grommets to seal the holes. After drilling any holes in the steel frame I used primer paint on the exposed metal, then painted again with black gloss paint. I wrapped some of the wiring with spiral wrap.
To eliminate exposed zip ties in the Speed Sensor install, I took a page from my Aventon Level e-bike and installed small zip tie holders mounted under or inside the bottom rail. Holders and screws are were primed and painted gloss black.
To manage the the battery, motor, and Shift sensor cable, I installed the seat post mounted controller box as a junction box. The battery to motor connections were coated in dielectric grease, and sealed with shrink tube and zip ties before closing the box.
A buddy of mine has the older version of the Bafang BBS02 motor and one of the problems that he and others have encountered is that the motor develops some play over time because the Bafang mounting bracket Bracket does not work perfectly. The new motor has the same bracket. In theory the bracket has small protrusions on the bracket side that mates to the bottom bracket. These protrusion are meant to "bite" into the bottom bracket when tightened. This should prevent the motor from moving, in theory. Evidence shows that the design is flawed and the motor/bracket develops play over time. My solution was to place a stainless steel hose clamp around the motor housing, and interlock it to a stainless steel hose clamp on the downtube. Both clamps were primed and painted. The clamp on the down tube sits on a rubber gasket covering the down tube. It may need tightening a few times as it may stretch. My future solution is to remove the motor bracket, and "pre-cut" grooves into the bottom bracket so the motor bracket protrusions can work as intended.
For the battery mount, I installed two additional anchor points in addition to the existing bottle bosses. I Installed two Aluminum Rivnuts, or Rivet Nuts into the downtube. I did not have a Rivnut tool, but I used a simple method I found in this YouTube video.
I have the Luna, 30 Tooth Mighty Mini chain ring, which I will install after my first real test drive. I reworked the brakes, adjusted the new Shimano Trigger Shifter, charged the battery, turned the system on, and everything worked seamlessly. Took it for a quick spin up and down the street. Works like a charm. The bike is much more powerful than my rear hub Aventon Level, which is an excellent bike. I will perform a major "off-road" test this week and get it covered in mud. ~Tom
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