My Electrical people… I need battery help

bsingh897

New Member
Region
USA
Long story short I bought this bike

And the battery stopped working… I plug it in the adapter and it will indicate green light like it’s fully charged but when I flip the switch on the battery and press the LED level indicator, it shows nothing. So either the power switch on the battery is broken or maybe the BMS.

But anyway, they gave me a credit to buy a new battery so I went and looked for a 48v 10AH battery because that’s what was on there originally.

I ended up buying this battery (48v 10 amp version)

Now I’m having issues with my bike shutting down From possibly a low voltage…

Initially everything is good, after maybe 10+ miles the bike will dead stop. I will then look at the battery indicator and it will show no charge, but when I power cycle the battery it will turn on and show it has 4 bars. Now when I try to ride it, it would always die under load or if I ride it long enough. So even if it shows about 70% charge it would still die. Here’s a video of it

Not sure if the controller is drawing too much power than the battery can handle? Idk really what’s causing the shut down.

If I do charge battery again everything will be fine even under load until maybe about 10+ miles
 

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Eucrider

Member
Region
United Kingdom
Trying turning the max voltage down to and see what that does it might , link didn't work for bike but if that's your controller it's controller to much power
 

stanmiller

Active Member
Long story short I bought this bike

And the battery stopped working… I plug it in the adapter and it will indicate green light like it’s fully charged but when I flip the switch on the battery and press the LED level indicator, it shows nothing. So either the power switch on the battery is broken or maybe the BMS.

But anyway, they gave me a credit to buy a new battery so I went and looked for a 48v 10AH battery because that’s what was on there originally.

I ended up buying this battery (48v 10 amp version)

Now I’m having issues with my bike shutting down From possibly a low voltage…

Initially everything is good, after maybe 10+ miles the bike will dead stop. I will then look at the battery indicator and it will show no charge, but when I power cycle the battery it will turn on and show it has 4 bars. Now when I try to ride it, it would always die under load or if I ride it long enough. So even if it shows about 70% charge it would still die. Here’s a video of it

Not sure if the controller is drawing too much power than the battery can handle? Idk really what’s causing the shut down.

If I do charge battery again everything will be fine even under load until maybe about 10+ miles

The link to the battery is broken in your post, but I was able to fish it out:

While that link indicates you chose a 48V battery I wonder if they sent you a 36V? Except for the chooser section, all text on the page speaks to 36V batteries.

Do you have a multi-meter to test the voltage? At full charge a 48V battery will read 54V. A 36V battery, 42V.
 

Eucrider

Member
Region
United Kingdom
Your battery can't handle the power your controller demands,, what battery was on there before
 

bsingh897

New Member
Region
USA
It was a 48v 10AH battery that was here before and everything was perfect till it died. The Amazon seller refunded me portion for the battery so I ended up purchasing the one above. The new battery is Labeled 48V 10AH.
 

bsingh897

New Member
Region
USA
Everything runs great when it’s freshly charged, can maybe 10 miles even with load… the battery level indicator on the battery never matched what’s on the ebike screen so I’m not really sure if the true battery level…

But anyway maybe after 10 miles it will randomly turn off described in the video above and I have to keep power cycling the battery for it to work and turn on. But even if it turns on once you sit on the bike and give the motor load.. it will die..

It really only works fresh out being charged full
 

fauconnier

Active Member
Region
Canada
I don't think you should expect a lot better from this battery. Your controller can draw, wide open throttle, 52.4V x 18AH = 936 Watts/hour and your full battery 524 Watts/hour, that is less than 1/2 hour of wide open throttle before the BMS cut.
 

bsingh897

New Member
Region
USA
Thank you guys for the feedback! I’m really bad at this and I wanna make sure I’m getting the right battery.

Can someone link me to a battery that will work for this controller and has long range? I’m planning to use Batt blender also
 

Eucrider

Member
Region
United Kingdom
Thank you guys for the feedback! I’m really bad at this and I wanna make sure I’m getting the right battery.

Can someone link me to a battery that will work for this controller and has long range? I’m planning to use Batt blender also
What motor is on your bike or could you provide a working link
 

bsingh897

New Member
Region
USA

tomjasz

Well-Known Member
Well given the least expensive QUALITY battery would cost 2/3rds of you complete purchase price, and I’m guessing the replacement was another $250 turd you’re going to continue to have issues.

Helping you try and sort without any multimeter readings is just a waste of time. Displays and battery gauges are useless when troubleshooting.
 

tomjasz

Well-Known Member
My understanding that it is ok to go higher amps on battery just not volts? Because the controller can only grab so much.

With that being said is this a good buy? Really want something that will give me long range

Joyisi 48 Volt 52 Volt 20AH Ebike Battery, Electric Bike Lithium Ion Battery for 350W 500W 750W 1000W 1500W 1800W E-Bike Motor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096R6PRVB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_V878GGBY76CAXKA82DFG?psc=1
Another mediocre choice. Remember these companies are not affiliated with Amazon and have a sordid history of pumping up positive reviews.

If you must. eBay has the same sellers and PayPal may offer better protection.

Adding 10Ah won’t necessarily solve your still unknown issues.
 

stanmiller

Active Member
Another mediocre choice. Remember these companies are not affiliated with Amazon and have a sordid history of pumping up positive reviews.

If you must. eBay has the same sellers and PayPal may offer better protection.

Adding 10Ah won’t necessarily solve your still unknown issues.
I have a 48v Joyisi with LG cells in a Hailong form factor. It's been a solid performer for more than 2000 miles.
 

tomjasz

Well-Known Member
I have a 48v Joyisi with LG cells in a Hailong form factor. It's been a solid performer for more than 2000 miles.
Which LG cells? Purchase price?
That said there’s lots of anecdotes regarding long life of budget packs. All good as long as you’re not in the 3-5% failures rates and can’t make good on a warranty.
 

stanmiller

Active Member
Like If battery is 20ah and controller is 11 ah but both 48v?
There is battery capacity measured in Ah then there is discharge current measured in Amps. Any 48v electric bike battery offered on Amazon should be suitable for a 500w motor. The 18 Amps of the controller translates to a max draw of 750 watts which is typical of a 500w motor.

My 48v Joyisi is a 13Ah battery and good for 30 miles hot-dogging
 
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