Need help with mounting an ABUS Shield Plus 5750 NR Frame Lock (cafe lock) to Trek Allant+ 7S (Stagger Frame)

Whybuywine

New Member
Region
USA
Hope someone here can help me out. I own a Trek Allant+ 7S with the Stagger Frame style. I just recently purchased an "ABUS Shield Plus 5750 NR Frame Lock, (also commonly referred to as a "Cafe Lock". The bikes frame has (2) threaded bosses in the area in front of the rear wheel, which I assumed were for mounting a Frame Lock. The thread size of these bosses is a "M5" thread. I also assumed that since the lock on the battery is a ABUS lock, that the threaded bosses on the frame would be sized dimensionally for the use with an ABUS frame lock. I WAS WRONG! When trying to mount the lock using M5 screws, the distance between the mounting holes in the threaded bosses are too far apart and don't line up with the mounting slots in the Frame Lock. Needless to say that this is very frustrating.

Has anyone else run into this problem and how did you solve it. I thought about somehow grinding both of the mounting slots on the lock outward to fit but I don't think there is enough real estate on the lock to do this. Seems like I would only be able to elongate each mounting slot by about 1/16 of an inch, for a total of an 1/8th of an inch, which I don't believe will be enough. I can't measure the distance between the mounting holes on the bike without removing the rear tire, which I really don't want to do.

Hope someone has some insight on how to rectify this problem. Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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BlackHand

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Western WA
I don't have an Allant, but ran into the same issue trying to fit a 5750 on my Haibike. I did end up enlarging the openings on the lock and then still ended up having to loosen the fender so I could get the lock mounted properly. Once mounted the lock looks fine and the fender tightened back up against it nicely.
 

BlackHand

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Western WA
You're welcome. I would recommend pulling the tire and fender so you can assess properly - I wasted a fair bit of time by being stubborn. Note you may need to deflate to tire to get it back on past the lock.
 

Whybuywine

New Member
Region
USA
I can get the lock over the fenders & tire without any issues. I'm thinking that the threaded bosses on the frame, in front of the rear wheel, are there in case Trek wanted to have caliper brakes, on a model using the same frame, instead of disc brakes. Which would be silly in my opinion to put caliper brakes on an e-bike.
 

WizKidSWE

New Member
Region
USA
If you get it to work I'm curious how you did it. I been looking at both that lock and the AXA Block XXL for my Allant 7+. And for the AXA Block XXL I can't find measurements to tell me if it will work or not.
 

Lowndes

Member
I ordered this ABUS Adapter Kit from Amazon. I hope it works. I will post my review after I get and use to mount my lock.

I too had the same problem with the same frame lock. It didn't fit my 8S. I would have returned it, but I got it with the matching key for my ABUS battery lock. I also got the ABUS 6KS Adapter Chain - 100cm. I love the chain.
I tried drilling out different holes into the frame lock. I do not recommend doing that.
After that nonsense, I bought and used the tightening straps mentioned above. I bought two sets and used them both. It's a little tight still, but it works. I wanted it secure and not to rattle. Also, the thought of the lock somehow turning during a ride frightened me.
I did not remove the wheel. I deflated the tire and the lock goes on sideways at first and then you twist it around until it is in place. So, one end of the horseshoe shape slides between the deflated tire and the fender. Then twist it and reinflate the tires.
Good luck. I love mine, especially with the chain.
If you want more pics, let me know. Sorry for the dirt. I just got off the Northern Rail Trail.

lock straps.jpg
 

Whybuywine

New Member
Region
USA
Thanks for your info. I also used the ABUS Adapter Straps Kit to mount the Frame Lock, so far it's working out great. Would have much rathered to mount the frame but that's the way it goes. Trek should consider repositioning those tapped holes in the future.
 

StevieD

New Member
Region
United Kingdom
Hope someone here can help me out. I own a Trek Allant+ 7S with the Stagger Frame style. I just recently purchased an "ABUS Shield Plus 5750 NR Frame Lock, (also commonly referred to as a "Cafe Lock". The bikes frame has (2) threaded bosses in the area in front of the rear wheel, which I assumed were for mounting a Frame Lock. The thread size of these bosses is a "M5" thread. I also assumed that since the lock on the battery is a ABUS lock, that the threaded bosses on the frame would be sized dimensionally for the use with an ABUS frame lock. I WAS WRONG! When trying to mount the lock using M5 screws, the distance between the mounting holes in the threaded bosses are too far apart and don't line up with the mounting slots in the Frame Lock. Needless to say that this is very frustrating.

Has anyone else run into this problem and how did you solve it. I thought about somehow grinding both of the mounting slots on the lock outward to fit but I don't think there is enough real estate on the lock to do this. Seems like I would only be able to elongate each mounting slot by about 1/16 of an inch, for a total of an 1/8th of an inch, which I don't believe will be enough. I can't measure the distance between the mounting holes on the bike without removing the rear tire, which I really don't want to do.

Hope someone has some insight on how to rectify this problem. Thanks in advance for any help.
I've just come here to post this very problem, but found yours first.

I also considered grinding both the mounting slots, but I agree there's not enough room to expand them.

I'm currently trying to use a metal plate with two nearby holes, mounting the plate to the bike thread, then the lock to the spare hole in the little metal plate with a nut and bolt. It's just so damn fiddly to do and haven't successfully done it.

I give it a go every few days then consider a different approach.

I've seen the straps solution below, but going to continue to try to mount it with a plate.

It might take me another month at this rate, but if I manage it, I'll re-post here.
 

Whybuywine

New Member
Region
USA
I've just come here to post this very problem, but found yours first.

I also considered grinding both the mounting slots, but I agree there's not enough room to expand them.

I'm currently trying to use a metal plate with two nearby holes, mounting the plate to the bike thread, then the lock to the spare hole in the little metal plate with a nut and bolt. It's just so damn fiddly to do and haven't successfully done it.

I give it a go every few days then consider a different approach.

I've seen the straps solution below, but going to continue to try to mount it with a plate.

It might take me another month at this rate, but if I manage it, I'll re-post here.
Your idea would definitely work, I thought of doing the same myself but opted for just purchasing the adapter straps instead. So far they are working fine.
I believe that TREK should rethink their positioning of those tapped holes to allow them to be used with the ABUS Frame Lock.
 

WizKidSWE

New Member
Region
USA
I ended up going with the straps too. Worked out really well. There is a little movement rotating around were it is connected to the straps. But very little and nothing I worry about at all.
 

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ebiker76

New Member
Region
USA
That looks great. Nice and tidy.
I had no bosses on my Blix Vika+ for the Abus frame lock so instead used two U-shaped clamps normally used to hold electrical conduit pipe in place. I bent the wings, with the holes for screws, so the clamps fit around the frame on each side and the two holes on each clamp lined up with the mounting holes on each side of the frame lock. I then bolted the frame lock through both holes in each clamp. The lock is held tightly in place so there is no rattle or possibility of the frame lock coming loose and hitting the spokes. Easy and cheap solution (50 cents/clamp), but I have to admit it took me a while to find a workable solution.