new member from Brisbane Australia

Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
Region
Europe
City
Brwinów (PL)
The guy in the LBS where I bought it did the same thing I did, ie apply front brake, turn the handle bars, and rock back and forth...with no noticeable play...
...then he checked something I'd never seen done before - he checked to see if the spacer rings under the stem could be rotated while holding the handle bars still - which they could...identifying there was a tiny bit of play requiring a slight snug up to the headset bearings.
This is why we buy e-bikes from a good LBS :)

I have found that a clean and lubricated chain is more important on my e-bike than on my acoustic.
Word.

It is good you went for the "first warranty service". I didn't do that with my first e-bike in time. The derailleur lost its adjustment, and a friend who tried to ride my Lovelec damaged the derailleur and bent the hanger. As I had to wait for a month for a new hanger from the manufacturer, I bought a second e-bike meanwhile...

Five months later, my two e-bikes were kept for 2 weeks at servicing. At that time, I bought a third e-bike... :D I would like to buy a fourth e-bike but my cellar/garage is not big enough :D
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
This is why we buy e-bikes from a good LBS :)


Word.

It is good you went for the "first warranty service". I didn't do that with my first e-bike in time. The derailleur lost its adjustment, and a friend who tried to ride my Lovelec damaged the derailleur and bent the hanger. As I had to wait for a month for a new hanger from the manufacturer, I bought a second e-bike meanwhile...

Five months later, my two e-bikes were kept for 2 weeks at servicing. At that time, I bought a third e-bike... :D I would like to buy a fourth e-bike but my cellar/garage is not big enough :D
that's stealth 👍 - where's the motor/battery?
I put the motor between the pedals and the battery looks like a bottle. Wires thru-frame for a clean build. Non-proprietary parts and firmware so I am not stuck paying 3x3x3 more for dealer service, parts, and updates over the years. And they cannot turnaround and Win'95 it, saying, sorry, your bike is no longer supported.
 

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almikel

Active Member
Region
Australia
I'm not sure why, but my e-bike shifting deteriorates faster than my acoustic as my chain gets dirtier...clean the chain and the shifting is clean and crisp again.
I have a chain keeper for my acoustic to be able to clean the chain without the wheel on, but it's designed for quick release road wheels and doesn't fit the Giant with its 12mm through axle :(
I need to get one of these:
The device fits on the through axle to allow a "reasonable" clean of the chain without taking the chain off using one of those "on the bike" chain cleaner thingies I've had for years...

I had the chain off for a proper clean last weekend, and I struggled to get the quick link/ master link off with a variety of "not quite the correct" tools such as circlip pliers, needle point pliers etc...
I bought a pair of these to make the job easier, they should arrive this week:
I'm slowly expanding my collection of Park tools :)

If I'm not riding in the wet, I reckon the "reasonable" clean leaving the chain on the bike should be fine every 3-4 weeks, and removing the chain for a deep clean every 3 months or so should keep shifting OK...obviously depending on how the bike is shifting...atm I always seem to be riding in the wet :( ...La Nina here currently.
Essentially when shifting gets clunky I'll clean the chain, and motivation will determine if I take the chain off or not :) - who knows, once I have the tool to remove the master link easily, I may just take the chain off for a deep clean every time...I have read elsewhere that master links should be changed every time you open them...but I think this is overkill...a new master link with a new chain IMO should be sufficient...my opinion will change the 1st time I have a master link go "pop" on a ride!...
...note to self - get some spare master links to carry as spares!

cheers,
Mike
 
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davatar

New Member
Region
Australia
My first post on this forum, after googling for reviews of the Giant Revolt E Pro...and found this thread:
I joined the forum after reading this thread - great info, helpful people!

I thought I should introduce myself.
I live in Brisbane, Australia, and commute 8km each way to work, almost always on a Cannondale "acoustic" roadie (only learned that term from the thread above, but I love it!)
I got back into cycling about 25 years ago when a mate suggested I try mountain biking - what a blast!
I added the Cannondale roadie to the quiver (GT duallie and GT hardtail) about 12 years ago.
I don't do much mountain biking anymore, but the duallie gets out occasionally on the trails, and the hardtail is used for commuting if the roadie is in the shop, or if it's wet (the hardtail has disc brakes)...although if it's properly raining I'll normally slack out and take the bus (yes I know - soft).

Brisbane is quite a hilly city (not San Francisco hilly, but it's not flat like say Melbourne), and over the last few years, age and creaky knees has made my commute into a chore - especially the ride home as we live at the top of a steep hill - I've been riding around it for about 5 years now, but even the gentlest way home has become a challenge for my knees.

I started investigating peddle assist e-bikes mid last year to help me up the hills.
I wanted to get a road style drop bar e-bike, and I liked the concept of the rear hub drives - no more stress on the chain/rings/cassette than an acoustic bike and very "stealth"...
I took an Orbea hub drive for a test ride (I think around 40Nm torque), specifically seeking out hills similar to my commute and I was quite disappointed with the assistance it provided on the steep hills, even in the lowest gear.
The bike shop let me next test a Focus mid drive with a bit more torque (I think around 55Nm) - again it didn't give me enough assist up the hills, but noticeably better than the hub drive...
...time to look for e-bikes with more torque!

The bike shop recommended the Cannondale Topstone Neo Carbon 4 - what a beautiful bike! but at AUD$8700 it was never going to get approved :( ... my top end was between AUD$5-6K
...but that led to investigating what other bikes had the Bosch Performance CX (Gen 4) motor, and other motors of similar torque (eg Shimano EP8, Yamaha PW-X etc).
These motors are typically found in e-mountain bikes, but crossing over to gravel bikes like the Cannondale Topstone, Canyon Grail:ON...both too expensive for me.
Focus has some flat bar hardtails with the Bosch gen 4 motor, and Merida has similar with the Shimano EP8 motor...but I wanted drop bars and no front suspension and something under 20kg (44lb).

I "stumbled" across the Giant Revolt E+ Pro 2020 through random google searching for bikes with the Yamaha motor...
For some reason when I review all the e-bikes on the Australian Giant website https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au, the Revolt E+ isn't there...
...If I search on the same site (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au) for Revolt E+ it appears...WTF?...

...anyway, the Giant Revolt E+ Pro seemed to tick all the boxes - Giant branded Yamaha motor with 80Nm torque (I think it's a re-branded Yamaha PW-X), drop bars, reasonable groupset...in my price range...
...further googling found this forum and the thread I linked to above with mostly good reviews of the bike.

I visited a Giant store in the CBD of Brisbane close to work, but they only had a medium and a large, and I needed an XL, and only floor stock was available - with no possibility of ordering an XL in ?...? - I asked him about the Giant Revolt E+ Pro 2021, which is available in New Zealand, but he said they didn't come to Australia...
The proprietor suggested I get on the phone to find a Brisbane shop that has an XL sized Revolt E 2020 on the floor.

I located another Brisbane shop that had an XL in stock (their only model) and test rode it the next day...found some steep hills...and wow, this thing is the bomb.
I'll have no issues getting up our steep street home ! :)
I don't have it yet, as I only put a deposit down to secure it - the bike shop puts it in storage (ie no-one else test rides it etc) - and I'll pay it off over the next few pay cycles...
...can't wait to get it...

...I'm very much looking forward to my cycle commute being a joy again!...

Great forum!

cheers
Mike
Your info is very interesting. We are going through a rain event right now with more frecast in the next 24hrs, so your tip on waterproofing is welcome..
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
I have a chain keeper for my acoustic to be able to clean the chain without the wheel on, but it's designed for quick release road wheels and doesn't fit the Giant with its 12mm through axle :(
I need to get one of these:
The device fits on the through axle to allow a "reasonable" clean of the chain without taking the chain off using one of those "on the bike" chain cleaner thingies I've had for years...

I had the chain off for a proper clean last weekend, and I struggled to get the quick link/ master link off with a variety of "not quite the correct" tools such as circlip pliers, needle point pliers etc...
I bought a pair of these to make the job easier, they should arrive this week:
I'm slowly expanding my collection of Park tools :)

If I'm not riding in the wet, I reckon the "reasonable" clean leaving the chain on the bike should be fine every 3-4 weeks, and removing the chain for a deep clean every 3 months or so should keep shifting OK...obviously depending on how the bike is shifting...atm I always seem to be riding in the wet :( ...La Nina here currently.
Essentially when shifting gets clunky I'll clean the chain, and motivation will determine if I take the chain off or not :) - who knows, once I have the tool to remove the master link easily, I may just take the chain off for a deep clean every time...I have read elsewhere that master links should be changed every time you open them...but I think this is overkill...a new master link with a new chain IMO should be sufficient...my opinion will change the 1st time I have a master link go "pop" on a ride!...
...note to self - get some spare master links to carry as spares!

cheers,
Mike
I like MuckOff dry lube. I will flip the bike upside down and spray the drivetrain with soapy water then lightly rinse. Then I will uses the dry lube, wiping off the extra. It does not attract grit. When you can order a CC-4 or similar chain guage. I change chains before they damage the cogs.
 

almikel

Active Member
Region
Australia
I've noticed when riding with others that my speed reads a little higher than others' cycle computers, eg cruising along theirs will read 20km/h and mine says say 24km/hr.
Similarly when I look at Strava data after a ride, where I've been hitting the 25km/h limit constantly and back off a little each time so I still get assistance, Strava will say my max speed for the ride was say 23km/h.

Living with an assistance speed limit of 25km/h is a bit frustrating, but getting robbed of a few km/h is worse.

Is there a wheel size adjustment on Giants that would give me an accurate 25km/h cutout?

cheers
Mike
 

Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
Region
Europe
City
Brwinów (PL)
I've noticed when riding with others that my speed reads a little higher than others' cycle computers, eg cruising along theirs will read 20km/h and mine says say 24km/hr.
Similarly when I look at Strava data after a ride, where I've been hitting the 25km/h limit constantly and back off a little each time so I still get assistance, Strava will say my max speed for the ride was say 23km/h.

Living with an assistance speed limit of 25km/h is a bit frustrating, but getting robbed of a few km/h is worse.

Is there a wheel size adjustment on Giants that would give me an accurate 25km/h cutout?

cheers
Mike
Mike: My observation is the wheel circumference set in Giant e-bikes is typically set wrongly. The only thing you could do is to visit a Giant LBS and ask them to correct the value. Is it practical for you to travel to any Giant LBS?