Passenger Hauler

Dewey

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
I looked up that frame style on the Azor website, good to see there are used Tweeling bikes for sale. That style of chain guard might not fit a Bafang mid-drive so you might want to fit a Hebie chain glider. I did that on my bike with an IGH.

Re: drum brake, I had my shop fit a 90mm Sturmey drum brake on the front wheel of my bike and find it performs reliably stopping in the rain. The photo shows a Shimano Roller brake on the front of the Tweeling. Roller brakes are commonly fitted on bikeshare bikes here in the US, because they are an easy to replace bolt-on service item, but the front brake needs to have the Shimano brake power modulators fitted as well, otherwise they can lock up. Roller brakes fade after heavy braking down hill but shouldn’t be a problem in the flat Netherlands. The reaction arm of both the Shimano Roller brake and Sturmey drum brakes fits in a tab on the fork, so I imported and had my shop fit to my bike an Azor fork to hold my drum brake arm in place because I found the fork clip Sturmey provides would break after a few months of braking.
 
Last edited:
Region
Europe
That style of chain guard might not fit a Bafang mid-drive so you might want to fit a Hebie chain glider. I did that on my bike with an IGH.
thank you very much for the tip on this Dewey, i was a bit worried about what to do for a chain guard. the setup in your profile pic looks super clean, that's almost exactly how i want to lay this bike out in terms of the drivetrain. i've only ever used drum brakes on rentals like you mentioned, so it's nice to hear you've had decent experiences with them. it seems to be either those or coaster brakes that come on standard bikes here and i don't think it's feasible to get a coaster working with a mid-drive.
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Petaluma, CA
Just some thoughts. Put the rear passenger ahead of the rear axle. The pad should stop there. Install a bar just ahead of the rear wheel as a foot rest. I ride a Nexus 3 but be carful. The manual says that you cannot pedal it in a standing position, meaning it cannot that that kind of torque. Maybe drop the cog to 24-t and or use a 36-t narrow wide chainring. I killed a Nexus once because I rode it hard for two years on a 16-t cog. They are cheap, so I just laced in a new hub using the same spokes so I could abuse it more. That one was fun. I called it Union Jack because it had a flag on the top tube and looked like an early 1940's British bike.
I sometimes keep chainguards.
 

Attachments

  • CoasterBrakeCruiser.JPG
    CoasterBrakeCruiser.JPG
    366.4 KB · Views: 26
  • Gateway3 (2).JPG
    Gateway3 (2).JPG
    560.9 KB · Views: 25
Region
Europe
Just some thoughts. Put the rear passenger ahead of the rear axle. The pad should stop there. Install a bar just ahead of the rear wheel as a foot rest. I ride a Nexus 3 but be carful. The manual says that you cannot pedal it in a standing position, meaning it cannot that that kind of torque. Maybe drop the cog to 24-t and or use a 36-t narrow wide chainring.
all good thoughts lol. i will definitely get the passenger setup ahead of the axle, maybe even put a little back rest to make it hard to scoot too far backwards. i put a bid in on that azor bike i sent the picture of but the seller didn't list what hub was in there. i will be careful with it but i'm assuming it's probably not a bottom of the barrel hub considering these bikes are designed to have 3+ children on them. also if i burn it up it will be easier to lace a new hub into a bike that already had one to begin with vs converting a cassette setup into an IGH

Did you say "The Netherlands"? Did you read the European and the Dutch e-bike law (both are basically the same)?
of course, and i will be able to make the same setting in the software of the motor controller that manufacturers make to limit the motor output to 250W and the speed to 25km/h.
 

Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
Region
Europe
City
Mazovia, Poland
of course, and i will be able to make the same setting in the software of the motor controller that manufacturers make to limit the motor output to 250W and the speed to 25km/h.
So why to use the heavier and more expensive motor on that e-bike?
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Petaluma, CA
@m@Robertson does this all the time. It is overkill on robustness for cargo. Big motor, down-tuned. It will last and last, trouble free. I am getting some 52V motors today with extra-strong double clutches and extra-strong bearings for cargo. I will run 48V to take down the load by 8+%.
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Petaluma, CA
On decent bikes the user owns it. And as owner can do what they want, the way that they want, because it is theirs. Here is how you can take down the speed limit to EU standards and down tune the Amps to limit the Watts to EU standards, while retaining a more robust set-up than bikes from retailers that you really do not own because you can't control them the way you want. Would you own a dog that someone else commands?
1662587060325.png
 
Last edited:
Region
Europe
@m@Robertson does this all the time. It is overkill on robustness for cargo. Big motor, down-tuned. It will last and last, trouble free. I am getting some 52V motors today with extra-strong double clutches and extra-strong bearings for cargo. I will run 48V to take down the load by 8+%.
this is exactly it. running a motor at well below it's full capacity while hauling heavy loads vs redlining a smaller motor day after day. it's definitely overkill but the price difference is negligible, and so is the added weight.
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Petaluma, CA
Programing Amps is easy. V x A = W. For the EU do for example, 36V x 7A to get 250W. No judge would bust you for having a robust cargo that is EU legal in all regards +- 5%. That said, I put wheel size at 100mm diameter on a 29'er regularly, and remove all governors for improved feel with no lag or surge. Because it is my bike that I command; It is mine! I feel sorry with those stuck with 'owning' a bike they are not the master of. Someone else commands it. They are master of 'your' dog. And it could turn on you anytime on their command. Being left high & dry by a big corporation calling the shots would suck. It is like it will only work with their cartridge for their printer at a 420.5% premium and that takes 12-weeks to deliver and only within their service network. You would be screwed over time. Liberation is so much better. Right to Repair. Don't be a sucker at the whims of big enterprises that only seek maximal profits.
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Petaluma, CA
bought this azor from a bike shop today. i will probably make another thread in the custom builds section so i can get help with any issues that pop up along the way. thanks y'all!
What is the hub. Is that a S.A. 5-sp? I do not recognize it.
 
Region
Europe
What is the hub. Is that a S.A. 5-sp? I do not recognize it.
i think it's a nexus 7 speed, i'll confirm when the shop drops it off to me but that's what azor puts stock in their bikes. not the toughest but all the shops here can rebuild them for cheap and it ought to work with the bbs02 well enough for starters.
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Petaluma, CA
The Nexus 7 works great with 350W. I was thrown off by the roller brake. I soak the internal transmission in Mobile 1 every once in a while, drain and repack with lithium grease. That makes them supper smooth. As the guy said, there is nothing as smooth as a lubed tranny. I like the Microshift trigger for Nexus, between twist shift bikes I sometimes get confused about which way to twist. The Microshift is perfectly indexed and prevents that confusion.
 

Attachments

  • NexusInterMRollerBrake01.JPG
    NexusInterMRollerBrake01.JPG
    220.3 KB · Views: 24
  • LubedTransmission.JPG
    LubedTransmission.JPG
    282.5 KB · Views: 22
  • DSCF7262.jpg
    DSCF7262.jpg
    816.9 KB · Views: 23
  • Cogs (2).JPG
    Cogs (2).JPG
    1 MB · Views: 24
  • NexusInterMRollerBrake02.JPG
    NexusInterMRollerBrake02.JPG
    194.6 KB · Views: 22

TrevorB

Well-Known Member
It's possible to fit disc to front. My son ebike project they welded mounts onto old steel fork. Alternatively just buy fork used or 2nd that has mounts. The other alternative is Magura hydraulic rim brakes, should be loads of used forks in Netherlands with these brakes. Magura do hydraulic activated switch for motor cutout.
 
Region
Europe
I like the Microshift trigger for Nexus, between twist shift bikes I sometimes get confused about which way to twist. The Microshift is perfectly indexed and prevents that confusion.
i feel like i'm the opposite, triggers always confuse me but the twist just makes sense. the downside being it's easier to accidentally shift when your hand is gripping the shifter at all times, especially if you are operating a throttle with the same hand. i will have to put a throttle on the left (ew) or find a shifter like you suggested that will play along with a throttle ok. my bike back in texas had a click shift with the throttle and it looked awful having three paddles on the right side but it was so convenient.

It's possible to fit disc to front. My son ebike project they welded mounts onto old steel fork. Alternatively just buy fork used or 2nd that has mounts. The other alternative is Magura hydraulic rim brakes, should be loads of used forks in Netherlands with these brakes. Magura do hydraulic activated switch for motor cutout.
yea that's a good point. azor offers disc brake upgrades on most of their models so i could probably reach out to them and see if i could get a new fork. i'm going to ride the bike as is for a bit while i wait on the motor to arrive and see if i can live with the existing brakes.
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Petaluma, CA
azor offers disc brake upgrades on most of their models
These internal brakes are fine for urban ridding in relatively flat areas. There are posts for mounting a disc brake on the existing Azor fork, see the left side. But that would require a new hub and more. My three speed twist shift gets a higher gear when you pull but my 7-speed gets a higher gear when you push. With a motor that can be ghost pedaled such as a BBS02, a throttle is not needed. I go for the torque sensor motors now after ridding PAS bikes that lack feel.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
On decent bikes the user owns it. And as owner can do what they want, the way that they want, because it is theirs. Here is how you can take down the speed limit to EU standards and down tune the Amps to limit the Watts to EU standards, while retaining a more robust set-up than bikes from retailers that you really do not own because you can't control them the way you want. Would you own a dog that someone else commands?
View attachment 134640
Sorry to side track a bit, but wondering what motor or controller are you talking about here?