Power turning off intermittently - please help!

spmckinnon

Member
Hey guys, I've got a weird problem, my bike keeps turning itself off intermittently. It doesn't happen under full load and typically happens at idle or low power use, any thoughts on where to start debugging?
I don't think its a loose cable as going over bumps doesn't seem to trip the cutout and fiddling with the cables doesn't trigger it either.

I'm using this after marker controller : (Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
I'm using this after market battery : (40A) version https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32956844446.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7b9e4c4doJFJJl

It's been working fine for 2000km so far.

I'm guessing it's either the battery or the controller. I started happening after I installed some new after market brakes with cutoffs, but I think that might be a coincidence.

In case its the battery, here is my battery usage:
I ride it into work, charge at work to full, then ride home, then charge up to full until I use it again. I usually leave it fully charged at home until I use it again.
 

Seattleboatmatt

New Member
I don't think its a loose cable as going over bumps doesn't seem to trip the cutout and fiddling with the cables doesn't trigger it either.

I'd start by disconnecting and inspecting each cable. Get a can of QD contact cleaner and clean them all really well. Throw a dab of dielectric grease in each one as you reconnect them. Make sure they're seated tightly. Pull the battery out of the cradle and inspect those contacts.

If you still have problems, I would throw your old controller back on and see if it does the same thing. (It won't care about 58v)
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
I'm suspicious of the new work done. Have you tried unplugging those brake switches to see if the problem continues? New brake wires routed allowing wires to short against something sharp?

On my bike, I had an erratic issue triggered by large bumps, finally quitting completely with the bike quite a ways from home. As it was a direct drive at the time, that was quite a ride back (just about killed me!). The silver lining was as it had quit completely I was finally able to isolate the problem, which turned out to be the keyed switch on the battery. That bypassed, I haven't had a problem since.

Anything is possible, but I would be surprised if the controller is at fault.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Keep an open mind here for sure! Proper troubleshooting will track your issue down eventually. Erratic stuff can sometimes test the patience of a saint. Wahtever you do, do not start throwing parts at it 'cuz you "think" that;s what's wrong with it.
 

thatdude902

Active Member
I haven't seen any issues myself. But I have been busy with life lately, plus I don't commute with my bike. So I still have under 200 miles on my upgrades. Turning itself off completely? Might even be a battery on/off switch issue.
 

CupofJoe21

New Member
I would start taking a photo of your current settings for the controller, resetting it to default and then changing the settings to what you have now.
 

Tars Tarkas

Well-Known Member
The tiniest bit of dirt or corrosion on any of the electrical connections can cause problems like this. They are probably the easiest and definitely the cheapest things to check first. As suggested above, disconnect all the cables, clean them mechanically if possible, with a brush or knife blade, squirt some contact cleaner at them and put a dab of dielectric grease on them. Put them together and take them apart a couple of times and reconnect them. This goes for the battery terminals too.

For me, in my experience, this is the solution to problems like this at least 80% of the time.

TT
 
D

Deleted member 4210

Guest
If the controller is from Bolton, why don't you call Kyle for troubleshooting assistance ? He seems pretty knowledgeable in all his videos. You didn't say the make or brand of the bike or is this a conversion kit ? (Or can we assume it's a Rad since Bolton usually sells upgrade parts for Rad)

Brake sensors, especially after market, are notorious for causing the issues you mention.
 

spmckinnon

Member
If the controller is from Bolton, why don't you call Kyle for troubleshooting assistance ? He seems pretty knowledgeable in all his videos. You didn't say the make or brand of the bike or is this a conversion kit ? (Or can we assume it's a Rad since Bolton usually sells upgrade parts for Rad)

Brake sensors, especially after market, are notorious for causing the issues you mention.

Thanks for the reply, yeah I reached out to Bolton for advice. Yeah its a Radrover 2018 bike. Would be great if it was the break sensors. I'll unplug them to try to eliminate them as the cause.
 

Tars Tarkas

Well-Known Member
I'd sure look at your battery connections. And when I say look, I don't mean that you'll see a problem. Clean the connections, use some dielectric grease, and connect and reconnect several times.

Since you're using an alternate battery, the connections might be clean but maybe they aren't exactly the right size.

The way you describe the problem, it sounds like bad connections of some sort. Under high load, there can be enough current to push the voltage through, but when you slow down and there is little current, there might not be enough power to get through a weak (dirty or corroded) connection. I can't speak to this very technically, but I've seen it several times and fixed the problem by doing nothing but cleaning connections.

All that is not to say it couldn't be the controller or something in the display that could cost $100, $200 or $300, but I learned a long time ago, the hard way, to try the easy, cheap things first.