Quick-E+

Balinus

Member
If anyone wants a 2019 Quick e+ in Canada, there's a good deal here:


I decided to wait for next september and see the 2021models!
 

Johnny

Active Member
OK I think I have narrowed it down. It's a toss up between these two:-


or

I was once thinking about those exact two tires and I really liked almotion. I'd say go for almotion but the widest one seems to be 2.15.
 

Alan111S

Member
Was checking out the front wheel today to see what needs to be done to change it to accept a 15x100 thru-axle as opposed to the 12x100 it has now. Easy fix, the end caps just pop out, the rest of the hub is already setup for a 15mm axle. I had a 15mm axle from another MTB and slid it in to check the fit, works well.

I need to find a set of end caps that will work on this wheel for a 15x100 axle, so I will pop down to the local Giant dealer today and see if they can get them. Should be able to, as the same hub is used on the new Explores that have a 15x100 axle. Pics attached if anyone is interested. The setup is similar to a DT Swiss 240, but the measurements are different. Our wheels use 15267-2RS sealed bearings (26mm OD, 15mm ID, 7mm width) and the 240 uses 6803 bearings I think (26mm OD, 17mm ID). I think these hubs were originally based on a Formula hub, but good luck getting anything from them! End caps in the pics are for the 12x100 axle, the shiny bit goes into the hub body and reduces it from a 15mm ID to 12mm ID, I think there's already a 20mm ID to 15mm ID reducer installed in the hub from what I could tell. Everything 'north' of the shiny bit sits outside the bearing.
Hey, not really understanding any of this ^^^^, but it sounds like you would know the measurements to look for to replace the wheelset?

I have a dent in one of the rims plus spinning the wheel there is 2-4mm of side to side movement. Will take it to the Giant dealer LBS tomorrow and see if it is repairable.

Basically, I'm trying to look on Ebay or Bike Exchange for suitable parts ... so I have an idea of prices.
 

Alan111S

Member
Hey, not really understanding any of this ^^^^, but it sounds like you would know the measurements to look for to replace the wheelset?

I have a dent in one of the rims plus spinning the wheel there is 2-4mm of side to side movement. Will take it to the Giant dealer LBS tomorrow and see if it is repairable.

Basically, I'm trying to look on Ebay or Bike Exchange for suitable parts ... so I have an idea of prices.
So the Giant dealer was typically cautious and said I need to replace it (which is of course in his best interests)

But anyway, I'm keeping it as is for the moment. Will see if it affects the way the bike rides.

FYI, the rim size is 584-21 which means 650B or 27.5" in diameter and 21 mm wide.

With the tyres in the end, I decided to buy 1 replacement original G-One for the back since my front tyre is hardly worn.

And I also bought a pair of:-


to put on once the G-Ones are worn out.

Thanks everybody for the input - got a solution that I'm happy with.
 

tquenneville

New Member
Clearance maybe an issue with the Super Moto X. Perhaps more at the rear.

Would be worth a wander down to Dyson and see if you can find one on a bike there and measure the profile at the widest point. Rim width will affect the measurement but it should give you some idea.
I was able to install super moto 2.4 on my 2016. I had to remove the the cable guide from underneath of the rear fender to get them to fit. It wasn't a problem since I updated my tail light and mounted it on the seat post.
 

Attachments

Ogcsmith

New Member
So just for folk who were interested, I was swapping to studded tires and tried a 700c wheel with a cyclocross tire on in the back (since it is Qr) and it fits under the fender fairly easily. It was basically exactly the same size as the stock wheels and tires.

I also tried some 45nrth 650b gravel studded tires and while 650b and 27.5 wheels might be the same size the tires are not! With 650b tires on the diameter is maybe 2 inches less. I have ordered some 27.5 versions instead. The 650b do fit fine though. Pictures attached!
 

Attachments

Alan111S

Member
Received my tyres today (just under a week Germany to Australia) which isn't too shabby.

Put the single G-One on the back and discovered that the one I purchased has a number 1 instead of a P. Which means its an Evolution vs Performance Line. The one I should have purchased is here and was 6 Euros cheaper:-


However, it feels exactly like the original so it doesn't matter.
 

kBrews

New Member
Received my tyres today (just under a week Germany to Australia) which isn't too shabby.

Put the single G-One on the back and discovered that the one I purchased has a number 1 instead of a P. Which means its an Evolution vs Performance Line. The one I should have purchased is here and was 6 Euros cheaper:-


However, it feels exactly like the original so it doesn't matter.
I'm waiting about a week for a saddle to go halfway across America, so that's great.
Wait, it doesn't give 6 Euros more riding joy!? ;)
 

Balinus

Member
Hello!

I'm wondering about the power of the 28mph version of the Quick-E+. Are you able to maintain 28mph for, say, 10-12km? Or is the 28mph assist is more for punctual needs?

I'm wondering if I need a stronger ebike motor for my need or if the PW-X or PW-X2 is enough.

Thanks for any infos!
 

Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
@Balinus, the 28 mph is the only the speed limiter setting. You're not guaranteed to reach 28 mph at all unless you're strong, ride downwind or downhill, and with maximum assistance. "Pedal assist up to 28 mph" is true. Maintaining 28 mph is not the promise.

My brother (who is strong) rode my Speed Vado 5 on a 2 x 2 km route, half with 20 mph (32 km/h) tailwind and the other half upwind. His average speed unpowered was 15 mph (24 km/h). With maximum assistance, he hit 28 mph (45 km/h) downwind but only 20.5 mph (33 km/h) upwind. His average speed was 20.6 mph (33+ km/h).

Judge for yourself. Quick E+ is not any different in this matter.

(Note: Riding up to 23 mph / 37 km/h is fairly easy if there are no adverse conditions).
 
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kBrews

New Member
Hello!

I'm wondering about the power of the 28mph version of the Quick-E+. Are you able to maintain 28mph for, say, 10-12km? Or is the 28mph assist is more for punctual needs?

I'm wondering if I need a stronger ebike motor for my need or if the PW-X or PW-X2 is enough.

Thanks for any infos!
As Stefan said, 28 mph is where the speed limiter kicks in. Maintaining any speed for a particular length of time of distance is dependent on conditions (wind and slope), your stamina, and the battery's capacity to boost your pedaling to that speed for that length of time (in other words, its more an issue of longeviity of the battery and your pedaling rather than motor "strength" or "power"). I would say the Quick-E+ has the battery capacity to deliver max boost for 10-12 km.

Some real world numbers: My commute is 10 miles one-way (16 km) through a college town (suburban & urban) and I generally use ~20% of the battery, usually in the "normal" setting (middle of 5) varying between ECO+ and Sport (level 2-4). I am not going full-out pedaling for that time (avg 15 mph including stops for traffic lights, stop signs, etc). While I'm moving I'm usually seeing speeds around 20 mph but some stretches (on smooth bike path) I kick it up to 25-28 mph.

Hope that helps.
 

Stefan Mikes

Well-Known Member
I agree it depends on many factors, of which the stamina is not the least important. There is. however, a fallacy in "Class 3 e-bike guarantees riding at 28 mph" and you will certainly agree with me that maintaining that speed in most of cases is unrealistic.
 

Alan111S

Member
My commute is 20km each way mostly flat. I ride most of the way on a bike path with no traffic lights except for the last 2-3km.

I use 34% on the way to work as the wind resistance is low, riding in 'Normal' mode. Pace is about mid-30s km/h. Coming home there is a headwind upto 30/40km/h sometimes, so I crank it up to Sport or Sport+ depending on how bad it is. In Sport+, I will get home with 10% left, and that allows me to maintain around 30km/h. On about 3 occasions, the assist has stopped about 1-2kms away from home when the battery is on about 2-3%.

With no wind or a tailwind, even in Normal or Sport mode, I am doing 40-45km/h.

I changed my cassette and the smallest cog is now 12 which limits my top speed a little.

Hope that helps.
 

kBrews

New Member
To follow-up, I read up on the PW-X2, it looks like it mainly gives more power (less power drop-off, specifically) at high cadence (above 80-90 rpm) compared to the previous Yamaha motor. Also they got more sophisticated with an auto mode that adjusts boost level to account for slope as well as speed, cadance and torque. Where I live they need to account for headwind speed, same with @Alan111S, it sounds like.

Here is one PW-X2 review, sounds like the improvements are aimed at high-performance MTB riders who like high cadence -short cranks. Personally, that's not me, not sure about the OP,
 
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FlatSix911

Well-Known Member
To follow-up, I read up on the PW-X2, it looks like it mainly gives more power (less power drop-off, specifically) at high cadence (above 80-90 rpm) compared to the previous Yamaha motor. Also they got more sophisticated with an auto mode that adjusts boost level to account for slope as well as speed, cadance and torque. Where I live they need to account for headwind speed, same with @Alan1115, it sounds like.

Here is one PW-X2 review, sounds like the improvements are aimed at high-performance MTB riders who like high cadence -short cranks. Personally, that's not me, not sure about the OP,


Good article... thanks for sharing. For those TLDR below. ;)

1582509142734.png
 

kiwitux

New Member
I finally got the MIK rack adapter! This is a little embarrassing though... for those who have fitted this, what’s the best way to get the four plastic studs out of the screw holes on the back rack frame? There’s no head to them, and they don’t appear to pull/pry out (at least not easily). I’m sure it’s something stupid, but I can’t find the trick.
 

kBrews

New Member
I finally got the MIK rack adapter! This is a little embarrassing though... for those who have fitted this, what’s the best way to get the four plastic studs out of the screw holes on the back rack frame? There’s no head to them, and they don’t appear to pull/pry out (at least not easily). I’m sure it’s something stupid, but I can’t find the trick.
Here's what I would try: Drill a hole into it and screw a small sheet metal screw part way into it. Pull on screw. Or once the hole is in it, you might be able to just pry it out with an awl or pick & hook tool.