Rad Runner 1 upgrade failure

slysync

New Member
Region
USA
I bought all the following upgrades for my Rad Runner to no avail.(see pics)

My issue is my bike works fine with stock controller and stock power button switch. The bike Even works with stock controller and other LCD screens ( makes the motor spin upon twisting the throttle just doesnt read any info ). What doesnt work is when I connect the 35 amp controller to the stock rad runner motor. You can hear a buzzing sound like power is going to the motor but its just not spinning. Walking assist does not work or pedal assist. I also get NO error codes.

I set the recommended settings on the LCD from both bolton and electrobikeworld for the 35a controller.

All parts are from electrobikeworld.
I bought two controllers thinking one was faulty.

If i revert back to stock controller everything works fine. I just got into the ebike world and was pumped to get some more speed out of this thing but the most help i got from the seller is perhaps i was not plugging the motor/controller cable tight enough. I made sure i did. I even measured both sockets to see how much play i had upon insertion and both fit perfectly.

Would anyone have any idea whats going on? Should i wait for the bolton kit?
 

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Last edited:

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
Some manufactures swap around wires. Connectors will look the same but the wire positions are altered. Unless you are into soldering, you are stuck with buying and using their parts. Without damaging anything can you look inside the controllers? See if the wires coming out are the same colors and in the same order.
Some manufactures will use off the shelf parts but swap the gender of connectors so you cannot use standard parts and are again stuck with their stuff unless you can solder.
Take a step back and sleep on it before proceeding in a way that is not reversible. You may be better off with stock. Then think about how you can reduce weight on your bike to boost performance and maybe using faster tires. If you could drop five pounds off the bike that would be great. It would fly much better.
 

slysync

New Member
Region
USA
Some manufactures swap around wires. Connectors will look the same but the wire positions are altered. Unless you are into soldering, you are stuck with buying and using their parts. Without damaging anything can you look inside the controllers? See if the wires coming out are the same colors and in the same order.
Some manufactures will use off the shelf parts but swap the gender of connectors so you cannot use standard parts and are again stuck with their stuff unless you can solder.
Take a step back and sleep on it before proceeding in a way that is not reversible. You may be better off with stock. Then think about how you can reduce weight on your bike to boost performance and maybe using faster tires. If you could drop five pounds off the bike that would be great. It would fly much better.
Thanks for your reply. I can easily open the controllers and atleast check. I do know a bit of soldering, (have solder and soldering wire.) I just wanted something plug and play that would work and mabe I got really unlucky.
Also im a really skinny guy and weigh no more than 135 pounds. I highly doubt weight is an issue 🤣.
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
Okay, so what about faster tires? This is a cut and paste from an advertisement and just one option.
CST Fringe Tire: 20 x 2.8, Wire Bead, Black





If you're looking for a high volume tire with low rolling resistance then look no further than the CST Fringe. The Fringe has a groping of tightly spaced ramped knobs that for low rolling resistance with a side and mid knob that will inspire cornering.
  • High volume and low rolling resistance
  • Great all around tire for the little shredder
  • Designed for hard pack - loose over hard conditions

Item Specifications
  • Labeled Size: 20 x 2.8
  • Tire Diameter: 20"
 

slysync

New Member
Region
USA
Okay, so what about faster tires? This is a cut and paste from an advertisement and just one option.
CST Fringe Tire: 20 x 2.8, Wire Bead, Black





If you're looking for a high volume tire with low rolling resistance then look no further than the CST Fringe. The Fringe has a groping of tightly spaced ramped knobs that for low rolling resistance with a side and mid knob that will inspire cornering.
  • High volume and low rolling resistance
  • Great all around tire for the little shredder
  • Designed for hard pack - loose over hard conditions

Item Specifications
  • Labeled Size: 20 x 2.8
  • Tire Diameter: 20"
Again thanks for your research and replies! To be honest though i really wanted to feel that acceleration and hill climbing power people keep talking about with this setup. Also rad bikes are restricted and have a power cutoff over 20mph. For now i can tape that cutoff connector on the motor cable to avoid that. I ride a supersport motorcycle and am aware of what flying really is but this e bike is fun in its own way. Was trying to also go with a 750w true motor but if i cant get the basics working I feel that i cant continue on experimenting. Mabe my only other option is waiting on the bolton kit🤷
 

rich c

Well-Known Member
Sounds to me like the controller and display are not talking to each other. A 35 amp controller is huge for that stock motor. 20a would be plenty! Maybe try the Bolton forum?
 

slysync

New Member
Region
USA
Welp, now my pedal assist is not working upon going back to stock. The red led light is on but not blinking when pedlaing. There is no magnets on the rad runner pas sensor. Just a crank attachment. On the left side. Mabe that had something to do with the controllers not working. Im about to sell this bike as is for half off if nayone wants it.
 

ExPatBrit

Active Member
Sounds to me like the controller and display are not talking to each other. A 35 amp controller is huge for that stock motor. 20a would be plenty! Maybe try the Bolton forum?
It possible to turn it down in the settings to any value you prefer, however this sounds like communication protocol.

I do note Rad now sells (2) different versions of the optional add on LCD for both Runner and Mission. Same LCD but obviously something must be different.
 

rich c

Well-Known Member
Welp, now my pedal assist is not working upon going back to stock. The red led light is on but not blinking when pedlaing. There is no magnets on the rad runner pas sensor. Just a crank attachment. On the left side. Mabe that had something to do with the controllers not working. Im about to sell this bike as is for half off if nayone wants it.
You sure about no magnets? I have no idea how a PAS system could work without magnets. Maybe they updated since Dec 2020? https://radpowerbikes.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360055380013-Pedal-Assist-System-PAS-Information
 

ExPatBrit

Active Member
It has magnets, the disc they mount on are pretty flimsy though and they are easy to break

Amazon sells a cheap two piece repair kit that doesn't require the crank to be removed.
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
I was wondering about the wheel magnet. Rad does not say anything about it and I do not see it in photos. My wondering has nothing to due with the current crisis. It is more about the original concept and objective because that is what limits speed. It could be built into the hub and axle. I also wonder if wheel diameter can be set by the user. And if it allows for metric conversion. If so one can do a simple hack.
It is very easy to bend one of the little wires inside a connector such as the PAS sensor, yellow. Often connectors of the same type and color have different functions. For example Bafang yellow-three-pronged brake cutoff and PAS yellow-three-pronged connectors look identical. In the unlikely event these got swapped the bike would not work correctly. Sleep on it and come back fresh.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
To get that buzzing/with no turning, the phase and/or hall sensor wires to the motor have to be hooked up wrong/incorrectly. Very few 'if's" here.

Check the plugs coming from/leading to the motor. There's a really good chance one of the pins is bent or broken off completely, OR, the plugs are not fully seated together. Put your patience hat on, get your glasses, and have a good look at those connections.

IF they are confirmed OK, it's nearly impossible to plug those connections in wrong, so next most likely bet is there's an issue with the controllers you're getting. No surprise considering where they came from....

And I agree, the PAS sensor came with magnets mounted in a disc that runs pretty close to the sensor (thing with the red light). If there's nothing there now, you need a new one.

The sensors that use a magnet mounted on a spoke are for measuring speed, not cadence. (nothing to do with PAS system) -Al
 

PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
To get that buzzing/with no turning, the phase and/or hall sensor wires to the motor have to be hooked up wrong/incorrectly. Very few 'if's" here.

Check the plugs coming from/leading to the motor. There's a really good chance one of the pins is bent or broken off completely, OR, the plugs are not fully seated together. Put your patience hat on, get your glasses, and have a good look at those connections.

IF they are confirmed OK, it's nearly impossible to plug those connections in wrong, so next most likely bet is there's an issue with the controllers you're getting. No surprise considering where they came from....

And I agree, the PAS sensor came with magnets mounted in a disc that runs pretty close to the sensor (thing with the red light). If there's nothing there now, you need a new one.

The sensors that use a magnet mounted on a spoke are for measuring speed, not cadence. (nothing to do with PAS system) -Al
Yes - the wheel magnet is not the crisis issue, PAS is. You are correct!
This is the fun part.
You know how on a car when you are doing 61 the speedometer says you are 100Kph? That can be reversed.
For more top end, on a speed limited bike, one can easily increase it by 40% or potentially more. The more part comes from moving the spoke magnet away from the limiting pick up. Speed will not show but the bike's speed will not be limited. This can be done for example rental bikes limited to 17.2 Mph. Just give the magnet a little twist and suddenly it is not speed limited.
Next if wheel diameter can be set in the display of a speed limited bike, it can be set to .6 of actual wheel diameter. For example 26" becomes 16". Then the display is set to Metric. The shown number, say 28Kph(17Mph) will actually be 28Mph which is 40% faster.
That could address the initial impetus of @slysync . A bike limited to 28 would then have a theoretical limit of 39.