thatdude902
Active Member
Things to look are 48v, 750w, bafang, freewheel, 175mm dropout (installation width). This one at another aliexpress store looks to be the same motor.
Radrover Controller & Display Upgrade Kit
- Thread starter spmckinnon
- Start date
Sharkbait
Member
I like your set up the fenders and rack and headlight....were those rad or sourced parts? Interested in prob getting a rad and doing mods as opposed to endless searching for perfect bike. Thx!
Sharkbait
Member
how long and difficult was the upgrade process ? As in plug and play, modular replace etc or was there wire stripping and connection and mcgyvering involved? Looking at a rover and modding rather than risking a juiced rip and dont know any other that would meet specs at price point of rad after mods even. ?? Thots??
Sharkbait
Member
Dont know if i missed it, but did u simply change the battery or do the whole kit? Id love to get away with just a simple battery upgrade!!
If you change the battery from 48V to 52V, yes you will be adding power and your speed controller will be fine since 48V and 52V are close enough.
Also, I changed my 48V battery to AliExpress 48V battery (I own Juiced, not Rad Power, just so you know)
Despite the same voltage, my new battery added noticeable power.
This is because my new battery cells had higher discharge rate.
For example, suppose there are two battery packs, both rated at "48V 14Ah"
But more expensive battery packs tend to have higher discharge rate. So for example, some battery might take 2 hours to discharge full 14Ah, whereas some sophisticated batteries might have capacity to drain all the electricity in 30 min. (These are just made-up examples)
Of course, there are other factors like BMS, speed controller and all that to determine the power.
Sharkbait
Member
So are u saying the aliexpress battery uses better cells than the juiced or just the battery you had was degraded ?? I thot juiced used top5 battery suppliers....i totally understand the 52 vs 48 scenario i was just wondering if that was a one component fix for a little more power without the whole kit thing. What juiced do u have and what has ur experience been? They are on my list!!
I have a Juiced CrossCurrent Air (with updated CCS speed controller), came with 10.4Ah 48V battery, and it was powered by Samsung.
Although I'm not certain, I think it was powered by Samsung 26F cells.
Now, I got an AliExpress battery, with Samsung 35E cells, 14Ah 48V and has much higher discharge rate.
The AliExpress seller was Eunorau, if you need to know.
My Juiced is not reliable, to be honest.
I don't mind it because I know fix the stuff by myself, also Juiced's price is good for the performance you get, so I can put up with it.
If you look at Juiced Forum on EBR, I think you'll find it pretty obvious that they need some help on customer support.
That said, some of the Juiced owners are happy, perhaps they improved their quality control?
Sharkbait
Member
Yes this has been my struggle. The bikes with great specs have no support and the bikes with less than great specs have great support so prob better to go reliable in my case and upgrade at my leisure than try to buy high performance on start and have problems. I need reliability first and foremost. Being out a week or two with no parts and calls and emails is not ideal. Single parent two teenagers? Ha. I hardly have time to work. Lol. So i will go for either a rad or look for a lbs that has anything comparable that is realistic to work with. I think the rover will prob be the ticket.
spmckinnon
Member
I changed, the controller, the motor and the battery!
yeah I know what you mean, but as many people have posted on motorcycle forums all over internet,
Pick Two:
CHEAP
FAST
RELIABLE
thatdude902
Active Member
Unfortunately the company that made those fenders is no longer in business. It was a company called "Big O." Rad made some bit later that looked very similar but they stopped making those (maybe too expensive? it was ~$159) and their current fenders aren't quite as full-looking. And the headlights were just some 12V light I got on Amazon and used a voltage regulator.
Coming from the same kind of background you describe elsewhere, I can suggest that kinda like dirt and road bikes, watching what is available in the way of performance enhancements might help make your choice a bit easier.
I just wanted to note that the stock '18 Rad battery is pretty capable of a sustained 1000w, and will support bursts in excess of 1300w - first hand experience using 35a KT controller and MAC 12t geared hub motor on a Rad City.
And I do agree one needs to select one of your 3 choices to start, but further, would suggest that with careful shopping, one CAN start CHEAP, then add money in sufficient quantities to satisfy ones need for speed. In my case, I would stack the resulting reliability up against anything available. This does assume average or better DIY'er abilities.
Hi guys. I just read thru the thread and think I understand the info. I’m in the market for a new ebike and now hesitating based on OEM torque specs. Buying online without a test ride is hard to get a feel for “sufficient” torque for me. I’m 6’2 and 230 lbs.
The 2020 Rad City shows 750 W, 40 Nm with stock 48V battery. If I just bought the Bolton controller (with brake light) will it fit this bike? His site says “probably” but no hard confirmations.
Would you expect a noticeable torque improvement with everything else stock?
BTW, the 2020 vs 2019 only changed headlight, bars and grips, and added bosses for cafe lock
diffindiff
New Member
Torque improvement, yes . Fit, likely, but the new kit with tail light is still sold out at the moment...
When starting with a clean slate, I would suggest you settle down with a firm decision on your drive system as your first move. There's an incredible difference between the direct drive rear hubs (like the City uses), and the gear driven rear hubs (like the Rover uses), especially when shopping from a performance perspective. The gear drive is much peppier in low speed stop and go, as well as hills. The direct drive seems gutless here, but when allowed to stretch it's legs a little at speeds over 15mph on fairly level land, the direct drive starts showing it's stuff.
This lesson learned the hard way here. My '18 City was up-fitted from stock to a 1500 watt direct drive and electronics similar to Bolton's at 6 weeks old, then a 1000+watt gear driven rear hub (MAC 12t) a year later. If I had fully understood the advantages of a gear drive hub from the start, I would have bought one of those from the start!
