Replacing brake hoses and shifter cable-anyone done it?

GuruUno

Well-Known Member
I installed a stem extender. Although others say you don't need to extend any cables or hoses, I also have a Kinekt Stem Shock and the bottom line is I do need to extend all hoses and cables.
I see that the routing of those is in the battery compartment under a 'tray' of sorts.
Also, I think from my previous removal of the bottom motor cover it also routes over the motor.
The bottom line is has anyone done this? Any pointers or tips?
I know some may say leave it to the LBS...but that in itself is a nightmare conversation to start here on this forum (competency, previous experience, knowledge, etc.).
 

fooferdoggie

Well-Known Member
brake hoses means you will have to run new lines then bleed the brakes. that could be tricky depending on how they run and your skill level. you will need tools to cut the line and deal with the fittings and of course hose depending on the brand it may be hard to get. the wire are a whole other ballgame. it may causes issues depending on what you have. big chance you would need new wiring too.
 

GuruUno

Well-Known Member
I have new lines and shifter cable.
I've bled brakes, have the tools, etc., knowledge.
The other wires are long enough.
The question is anyone done it on a Vado, know the in/outs, experience of the task?
 

fooferdoggie

Well-Known Member
I have new lines and shifter cable.
I've bled brakes, have the tools, etc., knowledge.
The other wires are long enough.
The question is anyone done it on a Vado, know the in/outs, experience of the task?
well then you got the worst of it under control.
 

RunForTheHills

Active Member
Region
USA
Just as a thought, for the brake lines: https://www.amazon.com/TRP-Hydraulic-Hose-Coupler-Kit/dp/B07XP5P641
Does anyone use it?
Then all I'd need to do is change the shift cable.
The bottom line is the cables are at their max tautness, and I can't rotate the brake levers or shift lever to be where they need to be.
So, I only need about 2 inches......
You would still need to bleed the brakes if you install that coupler. Why wouldn't you just run a new hose if you are going to do that? It doesn't save you much time and it is kind of kludgy. Shifter cables are not difficult. You will need something to cut the housing to length with. I use the Falco C7 cable cutters, but some people use a dremel tool. Ordinary wire cutters don't work very well.

 

GuruUno

Well-Known Member
I thank those who have responded for their input.
However, I think the "meat and potatoes" of my inquiry is being misguided.
The point is: HAS ANYONE EVER DONE THIS? Has anyone ever replaced the brake hoses and shifter cable on a Specialized Turbo Vado? Does anyone have detailed information as to the routing, fastening of, securing of, the path of, etc., etc., all of the caveats to be aware of before rolling up my sleeves and being stuck in a world of S#(*%!???
I'm only being overly cautious as to my initial inspection and previous knowledge of having the bottom cover off of the motor a week or so ago and seeing the routing of cables there, and the process of pulling, feeding, routing, guiding, getting the hoses and shifter cable (with housing) correctly back to the way it was designed, and installed at the factory with the extra few inches at the head tube to allow for the added height of the stem/extension.
The reference that 'RunForTheHill" is fantastic, but it does not help ME to know what lies ahead for the concealed, hidden, and tucked away hoses and cables that are internal to the frame and ever so placed correctly to have the correct tolerances and clearances for the unknown clips, securing devices, etc.
As an example, it would be awesome if there was an OEM article from Specialized as to how to do it....maybe it exists but only for dealers?
Here is my concern. If nobody ever did it, who knows what lies ahead. If a dealer "says" they have done it before, then I'm happy to allow them to do it for me and pay them. But the very last thing I need is a liar, and have rattling, looseness, scratches, broken clips, pried off bezels, etc., and have to fight. Especially when you cannot even get parts!! (try to, some are just plain unavailable).
I'm certain a lot of you may say, I'm being overly cautious, but have you ever tried making sure that you make the right choices and then have the LBS "kids" or other unfamiliar technicians do something that blows your mind?
Just sayin', and being proactive.
 

Brockrock

Member
Region
USA
I thank those who have responded for their input.
However, I think the "meat and potatoes" of my inquiry is being misguided.
The point is: HAS ANYONE EVER DONE THIS? Has anyone ever replaced the brake hoses and shifter cable on a Specialized Turbo Vado? Does anyone have detailed information as to the routing, fastening of, securing of, the path of, etc., etc., all of the caveats to be aware of before rolling up my sleeves and being stuck in a world of S#(*%!???
I'm only being overly cautious as to my initial inspection and previous knowledge of having the bottom cover off of the motor a week or so ago and seeing the routing of cables there, and the process of pulling, feeding, routing, guiding, getting the hoses and shifter cable (with housing) correctly back to the way it was designed, and installed at the factory with the extra few inches at the head tube to allow for the added height of the stem/extension.
The reference that 'RunForTheHill" is fantastic, but it does not help ME to know what lies ahead for the concealed, hidden, and tucked away hoses and cables that are internal to the frame and ever so placed correctly to have the correct tolerances and clearances for the unknown clips, securing devices, etc.
As an example, it would be awesome if there was an OEM article from Specialized as to how to do it....maybe it exists but only for dealers?
Here is my concern. If nobody ever did it, who knows what lies ahead. If a dealer "says" they have done it before, then I'm happy to allow them to do it for me and pay them. But the very last thing I need is a liar, and have rattling, looseness, scratches, broken clips, pried off bezels, etc., and have to fight. Especially when you cannot even get parts!! (try to, some are just plain unavailable).
I'm certain a lot of you may say, I'm being overly cautious, but have you ever tried making sure that you make the right choices and then have the LBS "kids" or other unfamiliar technicians do something that blows your mind?
Just sayin', and being proactive.
I will start by saying that I have not done that particular job on that particular bike, but I understand what you are trying to do, and I would do the same in your position. I would begin by exposing everything that you can such as removing the battery, removing all access panels, cutting all zip-ties - if applicable - and see what you are dealing with, and take photos and write stuff down. The cable replacements should be fairly straightforward as long as you have the proper tools - and those little crush-crimps for the cable ends when you're done - and regarding internal routing, I would loosen up both ends and then follow each cable's routing to see how free it is - with no surprise clamps hidden somewhere - and then I would Gorilla Tape a length of Paracord to the cable I was pulling out, and I would then use it to pull the other cable through. The brakes would go the same, and if you have a tight spot to feed a cable into or out of, dry silicone spray works great and leaves only a harmless residue.

The most technical part of this job will be cutting the brake lines, crimping the nipples, and bleeding the brakes, but if you have the proper tools, all that's a piece of cake. I guess basically, I am attempting to confirm for you that, you got this! There is nothing overly involved here. Lastly, I will also add that if gaining access to internal cable/tubing routes involves removing thing like the controller, be careful with wiring connectors if you have to separate and reconnect them. All it takes is one bent pin to make the whole job moot...
 

GuruUno

Well-Known Member
OK, so I have an appointment next week with the LBS to do it. He says he can......
My concerns are not many LBS have the need to extend hoses and cables on E-bikes, maybe.
If/when they do, my fear is I'm the guinea pig.
Poking around, I see this helpful site that kind of points things in the right direction.
Obviously, not for the faint-hearted.
and
and
 
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GuruUno

Well-Known Member
So, I replaced all the brake line hoses, shifter cable, and housing with all OEM items (Jagwire - Universal 1x Pro Shift Kit |for Road, MTN, and Gravel Bike | SRAM and Shimano Shifter Compatible, Polished Stainless Cable), (Shimano BH90-SB 2000mm Disc Brake Hose Kit Black for XT M8000/785 and SLX for the rear. 1000mm for the front.). Of course, this is to accommodate the SATORI Heads up 4 Alloy Riser Adapter Fork Bike Stem 28.6x117mm Extension. With the Kinekt Suspension Stem, I needed the extra length as things were maximum stretched out, and unsafe. I tackled the job with a bit of hesitation at first, simply because I could not accept the professed capabilities of 2 different local bike shops who acted like "yea, we've routed cables in the frames of e-bikes before"....not! They even gave me the wrong part numbers.
So I researched the daylights out of all things needed and got the parts and bit the bullet. It was a challenge, some tricks, things you probably would know if you were a Specialized mechanic, but nonetheless, I feel 100% confident that I can handle my own repairs fully without having the stress of 14-year-old kids or other unqualified bike shop mechanics. I trust nobody. No need to share the war stories, but those who know where I'm coming from will clearly "get it".

Yes, I had to buy that Park Tool IR-1.2 Internal Cable Routing Kit for Bicycle Frames and it is pretty slick!

So, with 3500 miles in 11 months and ready for my 3rd chain, I figured heck, might as well, why not....so new cassette, new rotors, new brake pads, and it's just like new....except me, my skills are not what they should be for adjusting the derailleur, so I had the "expert/seasoned" LBS dude do it, 1,000 % flawless job.

So at the end of the day, I did maybe 50 miles and it's much more enjoyable to ride, rides and shift well, no issues from that project (which, BTW took me 8 hours, a went real, real sloooow and took my time.
The cables run under the motor cover and in the battery cavity under a plastic "raceway" and out the front headtube. The hardest cable housing was running through the frame on the side of the motor and a quick in and out where it exits at the derailleur.

Oh, and just as a side note I finally got a human at Rider Care, expressed my concerns about the level of competency of the LBS's mechanics, and was told, "Each and every shop is a private entity for which we have no control over and blah, blah, blah...", ya know just like the Ford Focus Electric I had to sue Ford for (Lemon Law), the Ford Mother Ship said basically the same words, we have no control of each dealer, but if we get complaints, they may have an effect on them carrying our franchise/product.....

I have zero issues paying a LBS QUALIFIED tech a few hundred dollars if I know he could be 100% trusted to have the same work ethic as I do. But other than the referral of previous relationships, how will one know?

So, I'm happy, I did it myself, it's great, I love it and I think I good for another 3-5,000 miles.

Oh, one last note. 2 weeks ago I took the bike to the selling LBS to check the motor bolts for proper torque.....after his efforts, things were slightly better but still came back from time to time. So, when running the derailleur cable housing I had to loosen the motor bolts (which he said he 'greased' NOT! all he do was super tighten them, nada, no grease.
So I put that grease that is used on carbon fiber posts so they don't slip, BINGO, all noises are non-existent.

Quick question...bleeding the brakes, that miserable hose they give you in the kit that falls off the bleed screw and the syringe after a few uses......ANYONE KNOW what exact size that will stay put or another solution?

Here are a few photos.
 

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fooferdoggie

Well-Known Member
ya I have the park brake bleed kit and the hose falls off. I shut got a pair of hemostats to see. or maybe a little zip tie.