Ride1Up 700 Series Chain Falling Off Front Chain Ring

GenXrider

Well-Known Member
Is this is a low percentage issue or common? I find it strange that R1U will not address it if most of their customers have this problem.
Apparently, it is the way the bike is designed. The chain line in the lower gears is what appears to cause it. Read this thread from the beginning.

Or is it only people who put high use into their 700s? And is it only the 700?

BET stated his occurred multiple times on another model of Ride1Up bike causing injury, so she has made some custom changes to attempt to rectify the problem. This was also covered earlier in this thread.
 

cldlhd

Active Member
Apparently, it is the way the bike is designed. The chain line in the lower gears is what appears to cause it. Read this thread from the beginning.



BET stated his occurred multiple times on another model of Ride1Up bike causing injury, so she has made some custom changes to attempt to rectify the problem. This was also covered earlier in this thread.
I guess maybe one reason it hasn't happened with me is I never really used that gear closest to the spokes, apparently that's when it happens? To me that gear isn't really useful IMHO. it's so easy to pedal with it that it feels like the chain is off, I pretty much use three gears in the middle of the cassette, so if I'm going uphill I'll bump it over to one of the easier ones but also that's what the battery is for so I'll either put it in an easier PAS or I'll just hit the throttle for the hill.
 

GenXrider

Well-Known Member
I guess maybe one reason it hasn't happened with me is I never really used that gear closest to the spokes, apparently that's when it happens? To me that gear isn't really useful IMHO. it's so easy to pedal with it that it feels like the chain is off, I pretty much use three gears in the middle of the cassette, so if I'm going uphill I'll bump it over to one of the easier ones but also that's what the battery is for so I'll either put it in an easier PAS or I'll just hit the throttle for the hill.

It's not always mentioned what gear someone was in, but here is a couple of examples from this thread from two different people where the problem occurred in the lower gear(s).

"I am lucky enough that my chain has not fallen off while riding, but its a pain in the ass when rolling the bike backwards and the chain is on any of the three largest sprockets in the back."

"I always lose the chain in the easiest gear either up a hill or over a bump."
 

BigNerd

Well-Known Member
I have read this thread from the beginning but it's only a handful of users here on EBR.

Since I'm not on Facebook, I don't know the magnitude of complaints when compared to the total number of 700s in the wild.
 

GenXrider

Well-Known Member
I have read this thread from the beginning but it's only a handful of users here on EBR.

Since I'm not on Facebook, I don't know the magnitude of complaints when compared to the total number of 700s in the wild.
You asked if it was only the 700. You didn't have to read FB to see that someone with a 500 reported the same problem in this thread. But as far as the percentage, no one knows. Some people will just deal with it and never report it. I'm not seeing people complain about this issue on FB, and I read most of the posts. Many will ride in the higher gears most (or nearly all) of the time due to the gearing and PAS, so they won't experience it. So just be prepared for the possibility if you get one of those bikes. Even someone with a LMT'D reported the issue happening to him at one point, but he said it was a big bump. All said, it doesn't appear to be as big of a problem as some have made it out to be.
 

cldlhd

Active Member
You asked if it was only the 700. You didn't have to read FB to see that someone with a 500 reported the same problem in this thread. But as far as the percentage, no one knows. Some people will just deal with it and never report it. I'm not seeing people complain about this issue on FB, and I read most of the posts. Many will ride in the higher gears most (or nearly all) of the time due to the gearing and PAS, so they won't experience it. So just be prepared for the possibility if you get one of those bikes. Even someone with a LMT'D reported the issue happening to him at one point, but he said it was a big bump. All said, it doesn't appear to be as big of a problem as some have made it out to be.
I was riding earlier, granted on fairly level ground, and I swear that lowest gear feels so easy to pedal that it feels disconnected. I can't imagine many situations where people would use it. Especially if they are using PAS. Granted you should be able to use it if you feel the need.
 

BigNerd

Well-Known Member
All said, it doesn't appear to be as big of a problem as some have made it out to be.

That's what I'm trying to discern.

It's like the latch coming loose on the XP, seemed like a small minority making it a bigger issue than it actually was.

I would be concerned about the chain on the 700 if it was commonplace.

And yes, BET reported the issue with her son's bike but that was a 500 which is why I asked if this was something wider spread among the R1U line as a whole.
 

cldlhd

Active Member
That's what I'm trying to discern.

It's like the latch coming loose on the XP, seemed like a small minority making it a bigger issue than it actually was.

I would be concerned about the chain on the 700 if it was commonplace.

And yes, BET reported the issue with her son's bike but that was a 500 which is why I asked if this was something wider spread among the R1U line as a whole.
Ya it's like most things, those having the problem mention it those who don't, don't. Like how you don't call the cable company to tell them the picture was good today.
 

GenXrider

Well-Known Member
I was riding earlier, granted on fairly level ground, and I swear that lowest gear feels so easy to pedal that it feels disconnected. I can't imagine many situations where people would use it. Especially if they are using PAS. Granted you should be able to use it if you feel the need.
Stopping and taking off on a hill, going up an incline with minimal PAS, slow speed riding with PAS off come to mind. Some people like to have a high cadence also. One of the examples I replied with just above said they were not riding when it happened. By the way, here's a new example on FB page today - TWO more people reporting the problem.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/264729534163214/permalink/666573937312103/
 

GenXrider

Well-Known Member
That's what I'm trying to discern.

It's like the latch coming loose on the XP, seemed like a small minority making it a bigger issue than it actually was.

I would be concerned about the chain on the 700 if it was commonplace.

And yes, BET reported the issue with her son's bike but that was a 500 which is why I asked if this was something wider spread among the R1U line as a whole.
I've seen it reported by 500, 700, and LMT'D riders, mostly 700, but that's their biggest seller, so that would be expected if it's equally common. But I have not seen it reported often enough to call it "wide spread".
 

cldlhd

Active Member
Stopping and taking off on a hill, going up an incline with minimal PAS, slow speed riding with PAS off come to mind. Some people like to have a high cadence also. One of the examples I replied with just above said they were not riding when it happened. By the way, here's a new example on FB page today - TWO more people reporting the problem.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/264729534163214/permalink/666573937312103/
I know why you would use just saying it would have to be a steep hill. When on flat ground yesterday I tried it and was pedaling like a hamster on crack and felt nothing , had to check to see if the chain was still on I think the battery in a slightly higher gear is a better way about it.
 

GenXrider

Well-Known Member
I know why you would use just saying it would have to be a steep hill. When on flat ground yesterday I tried it and was pedaling like a hamster on crack and felt nothing , had to check to see if the chain was still on I think the battery in a slightly higher gear is a better way about it.
On flat ground while already riding along with PAS, that would be expected. Just shift up when the cadence is too high.
 

billium

New Member
As someone awaiting for delivery of my new 700, I would like to know what the chainring offset from BB should be.
A recent poster on the FB group worried that their crank was not sitting very far onto shaft during install. Of course that could be a simple matter of not torqueing it down all the way onto the taper but it could also be a defect preventing proper mating.

Also, which gear is supposed to straightline the chain on a derailleur?
My first though was middle of cassette but since higher gears have fewer teeth and thus looser chain perhaps manufacturers target 75% of the way to the highest gear - anyone know for sure?
Once known, I can point a laser pointer across the chainring and see which gear it hits to know if there an alignment problem or not

Their pic - not mine.

1606672249780.png
 

Donald Penn

New Member
Guys and gals, for those who have a tendency to skip posts in this thread, I just wanted to reiterate that I posted a solution to this problem on September 20th for those who own the 700 series.

And to answer a related question someone posted, no, I did NOT have to purchase longer bolts or anything like that..just the washers that I indicated in the exact width that I specified. I re-used the same chainring bolts that came with the bike to secure the new washers.
 

cldlhd

Active Member
Guys and gals, for those who have a tendency to skip posts in this thread, I just wanted to reiterate that I posted a solution to this problem on September 20th for those who own the 700 series.

And to answer a related question someone posted, no, I did NOT have to purchase longer bolts or anything like that..just the washers that I indicated in the exact width that I specified. I re-used the same chainring bolts that came with the bike to secure the new washers.
Mine hasn't fallen off but I'll keep it in mind
 

Taylor

New Member
Region
USA
SO I STOPPED MY CHAIN RING FROM COMING OFF MY 700 SERIES FOR ABOUT 75 CENTS!

I wanted to offer up an inexpensive fix for those of you who keep having your chain fly off your front chain ring. I ride 3 to 4 times a week and have about 800 miles on my 700 series it since I got it mid-summer, and I would suppose my front chain ring comes off once every two weeks or so. I always lose the chain in the easiest gear either up a hill or over a bump. After trying a substitute 46-tooth, shark-tooth-shaped replacement chain ring off of Amazon that promised to solve this problem (and caused my chain to fall off every 15 feet or so), I came up with this little gem and it's worked perfectly.

I bought a total of five, 13/16" (20.6 mm) washers with a 3/8" hole at my hardware store and, with some dexterity, inserted all 5 of them (1 washer per crank hole) on the RIGHT side of the chain ring between the chain ring and each crank arm. Because of the inexact fitment of the washer against the crank, it actually causes the crank ring to move INWARD (to the LEFT as you look from the back of the bike toward the front) a few millimeters and that minor change straightens the chain path enough on the easiest gear to prevent the chain from coming off the front. Believe me, I've TRIED to get the chain to jump off the front and it is now rock solid for me.

Below is a diagram for those that want to see the correct assembly order of the parts, but it would probably take you about 1/2 hour to try this out on your own bike (Just a warning, do NOT use threadlocker on the chain ring bolts, or it will be nearly impossible to remove them if you change your mind).

I hope this is helpful for someone...

View attachment 66082
 

Taylor

New Member
Region
USA
Guys and gals, for those who have a tendency to skip posts in this thread, I just wanted to reiterate that I posted a solution to this problem on September 20th for those who own the 700 series.

And to answer a related question someone posted, no, I did NOT have to purchase longer bolts or anything like that..just the washers that I indicated in the exact width that I specified. I re-used the same chainring bolts that came with the bike to secure the new washers.
Donald Penn, thank you for this information. V helpful in (hopefully) nipping this problem in the bud. I’m about to swing by Home Depot/Lowe’s to pick up those 5 washers before my 700 arrives so that the bike mechanic can install them (in lieu of what R1U sends) when he assembles the bike. QUESTION: what is the thickness of the washers are you using? Or does it matter? I’ve been able to find washers w/the dimensions you recommend, but the thickness of these washers does vary. Thanks very much for your earliest reply. This is a Christmas present for husband that I am racing to get properly assembled in advance of the big day.

 

Taylor

New Member
Region
USA
PS — I’ve seen these washers come in 0.065 thickness and 0.047 thickness. Which thickness do you recommend? Thanks again.
 

Taylor

New Member
Region
USA
SO I STOPPED MY CHAIN RING FROM COMING OFF MY 700 SERIES FOR ABOUT 75 CENTS!

I wanted to offer up an inexpensive fix for those of you who keep having your chain fly off your front chain ring. I ride 3 to 4 times a week and have about 800 miles on my 700 series it since I got it mid-summer, and I would suppose my front chain ring comes off once every two weeks or so. I always lose the chain in the easiest gear either up a hill or over a bump. After trying a substitute 46-tooth, shark-tooth-shaped replacement chain ring off of Amazon that promised to solve this problem (and caused my chain to fall off every 15 feet or so), I came up with this little gem and it's worked perfectly.

I bought a total of five, 13/16" (20.6 mm) washers with a 3/8" hole at my hardware store and, with some dexterity, inserted all 5 of them (1 washer per crank hole) on the RIGHT side of the chain ring between the chain ring and each crank arm. Because of the inexact fitment of the washer against the crank, it actually causes the crank ring to move INWARD (to the LEFT as you look from the back of the bike toward the front) a few millimeters and that minor change straightens the chain path enough on the easiest gear to prevent the chain from coming off the front. Believe me, I've TRIED to get the chain to jump off the front and it is now rock solid for me.

Below is a diagram for those that want to see the correct assembly order of the parts, but it would probably take you about 1/2 hour to try this out on your own bike (Just a warning, do NOT use threadlocker on the chain ring bolts, or it will be nearly impossible to remove them if you change your mind).

I hope this is helpful for someone...

View attachment 66082