Small display and power quirks on my 700

Joe Bolte

New Member
If you are pedaling when the display turns on, it will boost aggressively for a few seconds, even though the display starts on level 0.

If I ride evenly until the battery runs out, the charge percentage display was on 100% for about the first third of the distance. Sometimes the charge percentage can increase while I'm riding. Spooky!

Each boost level is waaaay boostier when the battery is freshly charged vs 10% left. Does the wattage display account for this, or is it biased?

I found a hill too steep for the bike. Even on PAS 1/9 and first gear, the motor made a "can't do it" noise and gave up, but it was fine when I turned around.

The bike is an amazing value at $1500.
 

GenXrider

Active Member
I found a hill too steep for the bike. Even on PAS 1/9 and first gear, the motor made a "can't do it" noise and gave up, but it was fine when I turned around.

Thanks for the feedback. But PAS 1/9 is the lowest assist level, so it's not surprising that it couldn't get you up the hill. For the low gear to help, you need to pedal with some effort also as the hub motor drive doesn't use the bike's chain drive train to deliver power.
 

Joe Bolte

New Member
I mean the motor shut down, not that it delivered insufficient power. I was pedaling and had it on PAS 1 because it seemed to have more trouble at higher levels, but I might have been confused.
 

GenXrider

Active Member
Oh, if higher PAS levels had more trouble, it sounds like it might have been overheating or something, as higher PAS will output more watts. I don't have the bike, so I'm just speculating.
 

Joe Bolte

New Member
I did a similar hill and lower PAS levels starve the motor of power to get up steeper hills. Higher PAS is always better for hills.

As I now understand it, the PAS levels are wattage limits and maximum speed limits.

I wish I could program the controller so that PAS levels limit the acceleration of the bike, not the power delivered by the motor.

Also, the battery percentage display recovers an insane amount of battery if you just turn it off for a few minutes. Like 35% recovers to 70%. Hard to know how much actual range remains.
 
Joe, my battery gauge does the same thing, only to a much lesser degree. Yesterday I got done with a ride and it claimed 21% left right as I pulled up to the garage. After three or four minutes it said 30% remaining. It seemed to level off at 30% and I wasn't going to stand around in a hot garage to see if it would creep higher. I have a BH EasyMotion mountain bike and the gauge on that one is excellent. The most it will ever recover is 1% after you stop pedaling. OTOH, the sticker price on that bike is three times the R1U 700 so everything should be better.
 

rchenail

Member
Oh, if higher PAS levels had more trouble, it sounds like it might have been overheating or something, as higher PAS will output more watts. I don't have the bike, so I'm just speculating.
the new 700's are limited to 750 peak instead of the earlier models at 1000. They've had some problems with overheating if it stays too long at higher levels. I've seen mine up there close to 1000 but very briefly.
 

GenXrider

Active Member
the new 700's are limited to 750 peak instead of the earlier models at 1000. They've had some problems with overheating if it stays too long at higher levels. I've seen mine up there close to 1000 but very briefly.
Someone actually brought this up on the Ride1Up Facebook page a little over a week ago pointing out that the 700 product page shows a peak of 800 watts instead of 1000 watts now.

Kevin Dugger, owner of Ride1Up, stated, "You can still set it to 1000w. The problem we are seeing. If run at 1000w (peak power) for an extended time, it will damage the motor. The only way to do this is up a long hill, typically as a heavier rider in throttle only and with low tire psi. Still, if this happens even a few times, this is not good.. Reducing it to 800w doesn't reduce the top speed, but it does limit the potential torque/accel just slightly. It also prevents this potential from occurring. Additionally, limiting your current to a lower number (17a,or18a) ~ 800-880w will significantly improve your range. "

Reference: https://www.facebook.com/groups/264729534163214/permalink/625992318036932/
 

GenXrider

Active Member
Someone actually brought this up on the Ride1Up Facebook page a little over a week ago pointing out that the 700 product page shows a peak of 800 watts instead of 1000 watts now.

Kevin Dugger, owner of Ride1Up, stated, "You can still set it to 1000w. The problem we are seeing. If run at 1000w (peak power) for an extended time, it will damage the motor. The only way to do this is up a long hill, typically as a heavier rider in throttle only and with low tire psi. Still, if this happens even a few times, this is not good.. Reducing it to 800w doesn't reduce the top speed, but it does limit the potential torque/accel just slightly. It also prevents this potential from occurring. Additionally, limiting your current to a lower number (17a,or18a) ~ 800-880w will significantly improve your range. "

Reference: https://www.facebook.com/groups/264729534163214/permalink/625992318036932/

Update on this:

Kevin stated, " The current limit isn't working the same anymore as it used to. We'll have to update our video. You can limit every pedal assist level with the percentage option. Are you trying to limit throttle output?"

https://www.facebook.com/groups/264729534163214/?post_id=638987423404088
 

cldlhd

Active Member
Update on this:

Kevin stated, " The current limit isn't working the same anymore as it used to. We'll have to update our video. You can limit every pedal assist level with the percentage option. Are you trying to limit throttle output?"

https://www.facebook.com/groups/264729534163214/?post_id=638987423404088
Thanks, checked that out a bit but can't too much because I'm not on FB. I've never seen my bike go over 860 watts but I'll tone down the top level. Only real issue I've had is the rear spokes loosening up, I've tightened them but think I need one if those tension tools. I still feel the 100% issue is it reads 100% when it's not yet fully charged. When I left it plugged in for 5 hours the charger light went green. Then when I plugged it in and saw it had just hit 100% my Sense energy app showed it was still charging and the light was red, as a matter of fact as it continues to charge at 100% the number of Watts it's accepting actually steadily goes up. As for being able to goose the throttle while pedaling on PAS it's weird. Sometimes when I'm pedaling and I goose the throttle nothing, then other times the power jumps for a second or two. If I stop pedaling and hit the throttle it works fine.
 

GenXrider

Active Member
Thanks, checked that out a bit but can't too much because I'm not on FB. I've never seen my bike go over 860 watts but I'll tone down the top level. Only real issue I've had is the rear spokes loosening up, I've tightened them but think I need one if those tension tools. I still feel the 100% issue is it reads 100% when it's not yet fully charged. When I left it plugged in for 5 hours the charger light went green. Then when I plugged it in and saw it had just hit 100% my Sense energy app showed it was still charging and the light was red, as a matter of fact as it continues to charge at 100% the number of Watts it's accepting actually steadily goes up. As for being able to goose the throttle while pedaling on PAS it's weird. Sometimes when I'm pedaling and I goose the throttle nothing, then other times the power jumps for a second or two. If I stop pedaling and hit the throttle it works fine.
You should be able to read the FB stuff without an account. I'm able to see them without logging in. You just need to click where it shows "comments" and wherever it says "more comments" so that you are expanding out to see all of the comments.

The 100% charged issue is the same one discussed in the other FB thread, that I linked to from this post:

https://electricbikereview.com/foru...et-at-18-ride1up-suggest-11.37284/post-328361

And from what you described with your throttle, maybe you need the software update after-all. I would review that FB thread about that issue and verify it a few more times, making sure you are pedaling for several seconds before using the throttle to see if it engages. I linked to that FB thread in this post:

https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/my-ride1up-700s-are-being-shipped.35874/post-312640
 

cldlhd

Active Member
Thanks for the link. I definitely tested it a few times last night, I was in PAS 2 and I was pedaling for a bit with the assistance and I nailed the throttle all the way and I felt a jump of power and then it went back to normal. I would prefer it if I could just give it throttle and stay in that level of PAS. But it's not a real big deal, when I've hit some hills I've stopped peddling and just use the throttle, although being able to help by peddling along with throttle would be better, or on routes I know when I know there is a big hill coming up I'll just bump it up to a high PAS level and pedal.
It would be nice if there was a way to update the software from home. I know Wi-Fi would be a bit much to ask but if there is a micro USB plug or something.
 

GenXrider

Active Member
Thanks for the link. I definitely tested it a few times last night, I was in PAS 2 and I was pedaling for a bit with the assistance and I nailed the throttle all the way and I felt a jump of power and then it went back to normal. I would prefer it if I could just give it throttle and stay in that level of PAS. But it's not a real big deal, when I've hit some hills I've stopped peddling and just use the throttle, although being able to help by peddling along with throttle would be better, or on routes I know when I know there is a big hill coming up I'll just bump it up to a high PAS level and pedal.
It would be nice if there was a way to update the software from home. I know Wi-Fi would be a bit much to ask but if there is a micro USB plug or something.
I definitely would want to keep "pedaling" with as-needed throttle since I'm riding mostly for exercise. Something doesn't sound right there - not sure if you need the software update. I thought they were going to update all of the bikes that hadn't shipped yet, but that might not have happened.

You probably just need a computer to do it from home with what Ride1Up sends you.

https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/my-ride1up-700s-are-being-shipped.35874/post-313313
 
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cldlhd

Active Member
Oh alright I guess I'll contact them. I didn't see anywhere to plug in a USB cable but I'll give it a look. So far I have found them to be very responsive. Granted I've only been emailing back and forth I haven't needed any parts or anything but still.
 

GenXrider

Active Member
I never saw any feedback from anyone that actually performed the update, and it's been about 4 weeks since someone first mentioned the issue.
 

cldlhd

Active Member
I never saw any feedback from anyone that actually performed the update, and it's been about 4 weeks since someone first mentioned the issue.
I got the bike for exercise and fun. I've found I get more exercise than with my old bike because I can ride longer/farther and it's more fun. I've only been riding it for 5 days do I'm sure over time some of the novelty may wear off but love it so far.
 

GenXrider

Active Member
So I emailed R1up today and they said they can send me the cable for the update
Since our earlier messages, someone on FB posted that they received the cable and downloaded the software, but they didn't find any connections on the controller to match up with the cable that was sent. And there were no instructions.
 

cldlhd

Active Member
Since our earlier messages, someone on FB posted that they received the cable and downloaded the software, but they didn't find any connections on the controller to match up with the cable that was sent. And there were no instructions.
I emailed R1up and they told me you have to pull out the rubber grommet on the downtube ( non drive side ) and there's a plug where the display connects. You have to unplug the display there and connect the cable they send you there to the wire that leads down to the controller.
 

GenXrider

Active Member
I emailed R1up and they told me you have to pull out the rubber grommet on the downtube ( non drive side ) and there's a plug where the display connects. You have to unplug the display there and connect the cable they send you there to the wire that leads down to the controller.

Someone posted on FB that they found the connector, but they are getting an error trying to run the software:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/264...k/628826521086845/?comment_id=654498378519659