ST1 Replacement Bottom Bracket/Crankset alternative

KidWok

Member
Hey all,

My ST1 Limited Edition is coming up on 9k miles as I also am nearing my three year anniversary with it. Did about 4k miles in year one, but got and sold a GoCycle G3 in year two and got a Tern GSD last year that have brought my annual mileage on the ST1 down a bit.

I have been planning a major overhaul at 9k miles as it seems time to replace the OEM chainring and freewheel. I had rotated two chains, taking the first one out at 50% worn, running a second one until 50% worn, then the first chain going back on until 100% worn, and now using the second chain until it is also 100% worn. The OEM Big Ben plus tires also look like they're due for replacement and I've got some Maxxis Gypsy e-bike tires ready to go. Had also planned on replacing the crankset and bottom bracket at the same time as the crankset was slightly bent after I went down on some ice last year.

Had all these parts ready for the big overhaul, but was just riding along last month when my bottom bracket spindle snapped in between the bottom bracket cups. I suspect this is due to me standing on my cranks often over bumps, which probably causes a lot of torsional shear on the BB spindle. The OEM BB spindle also does not appear to be hardened steel.

This meant I needed to do the BB and crank replacement ahead of schedule. I had decided that I didn't want to use the same FSA made RPM BB with the OEM crankset as they seemed pretty cheap. However, there really aren't many other BB's out there that are wide enough (OEM IS 138 mm spindle). I saw Phil Wood makes something special order at 135 mm. In my parts stash, I had a custom 129 mm spindle Ultegra Octalink BB with 73 mm BB shell spec that Shimano had custom made for my Santana tandem, as well as the 6500 crankset to match. The shorter spindle length would mean that the ST1 LE's single chainring would sit 4.5 mm further inboard, which it looked like there was enough chainstay clearance handle that.

Replacement was pretty straightforward as the ST1 BB shell is standard 73 mm spec. It all works well. The BB spins very nice and I know from my experience with my road bikes that it's a durable unit. The OEM 52t chainring mounted in the inside position, with the OEM chainring guard still on the outside, clears the chainstay by a couple of mm. I had made a custom chain keeper out of some stainless steel rod salvaged from a collapsible laundry basket that you can see in the first pic below. That had to be pulled off and put into a vise to bend it a bit to accommodate the new chainline. It is held onto the seat tube with a couple wraps of innertube and a zip-tie. Has worked beautifully since I put it on in the first year.

Rest of the overhaul will happen in about 200 miles with this last chain eeking out what remaining miles I can get out of the drivetrain. The freewheel has some pretty ovalized teeth, one chipped tooth, and I think the freewheel mechanism is making some clunky noises. OEM chainring is steel and I had flipped it about halfway through to get more miles out of it...it has started to slip under heavy acceleration. I'll do another post about the overhaul later.

Pics attached. Snapped BB spindle with both crank arms pointing down. Parts pulled off showing the BB spindle snapped on the inside of the non-drive bearings. Replacement crankset installed with OEM chainring and chainguard.

Tai
 

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per-larsen

New Member
Hi. Last week I dropped my Stromer ST1X 2019 taking a turn too fast on a wet road. The right crankset got bend in the crash and needs to be replaced. I would like to order the part myself online and replace it. According to the Stromer spec sheet it should be a FSA Omega 52T, but a google search on this part does not seem to bring anything that resembles what is currently on my bike. Do you know if I should look for it under a different name or is it a speciel Stromer parts that can only be bought through them? Maybe I can replace it with something else if this is the case?
Thanks
Per Larsen
Denmark
 

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KidWok

Member
Sorry...I can't help you there. I didn't much care for the FSA parts on my bike so I replaced them.

Tai
 

lindo3000

New Member
Hey all,

My ST1 Limited Edition is coming up on 9k miles as I also am nearing my three year anniversary with it. Did about 4k miles in year one, but got and sold a GoCycle G3 in year two and got a Tern GSD last year that have brought my annual mileage on the ST1 down a bit.

I have been planning a major overhaul at 9k miles as it seems time to replace the OEM chainring and freewheel. I had rotated two chains, taking the first one out at 50% worn, running a second one until 50% worn, then the first chain going back on until 100% worn, and now using the second chain until it is also 100% worn. The OEM Big Ben plus tires also look like they're due for replacement and I've got some Maxxis Gypsy e-bike tires ready to go. Had also planned on replacing the crankset and bottom bracket at the same time as the crankset was slightly bent after I went down on some ice last year.

Had all these parts ready for the big overhaul, but was just riding along last month when my bottom bracket spindle snapped in between the bottom bracket cups. I suspect this is due to me standing on my cranks often over bumps, which probably causes a lot of torsional shear on the BB spindle. The OEM BB spindle also does not appear to be hardened steel.

This meant I needed to do the BB and crank replacement ahead of schedule. I had decided that I didn't want to use the same FSA made RPM BB with the OEM crankset as they seemed pretty cheap. However, there really aren't many other BB's out there that are wide enough (OEM IS 138 mm spindle). I saw Phil Wood makes something special order at 135 mm. In my parts stash, I had a custom 129 mm spindle Ultegra Octalink BB with 73 mm BB shell spec that Shimano had custom made for my Santana tandem, as well as the 6500 crankset to match. The shorter spindle length would mean that the ST1 LE's single chainring would sit 4.5 mm further inboard, which it looked like there was enough chainstay clearance handle that.

Replacement was pretty straightforward as the ST1 BB shell is standard 73 mm spec. It all works well. The BB spins very nice and I know from my experience with my road bikes that it's a durable unit. The OEM 52t chainring mounted in the inside position, with the OEM chainring guard still on the outside, clears the chainstay by a couple of mm. I had made a custom chain keeper out of some stainless steel rod salvaged from a collapsible laundry basket that you can see in the first pic below. That had to be pulled off and put into a vise to bend it a bit to accommodate the new chainline. It is held onto the seat tube with a couple wraps of innertube and a zip-tie. Has worked beautifully since I put it on in the first year.

Rest of the overhaul will happen in about 200 miles with this last chain eeking out what remaining miles I can get out of the drivetrain. The freewheel has some pretty ovalized teeth, one chipped tooth, and I think the freewheel mechanism is making some clunky noises. OEM chainring is steel and I had flipped it about halfway through to get more miles out of it...it has started to slip under heavy acceleration. I'll do another post about the overhaul later.

Pics attached. Snapped BB spindle with both crank arms pointing down. Parts pulled off showing the BB spindle snapped on the inside of the non-drive bearings. Replacement crankset installed with OEM chainring and chainguard.

Tai
This is vital information to me, thank you so much!
 

sebbybudbud

New Member
Hey all,

My ST1 Limited Edition is coming up on 9k miles as I also am nearing my three year anniversary with it. Did about 4k miles in year one, but got and sold a GoCycle G3 in year two and got a Tern GSD last year that have brought my annual mileage on the ST1 down a bit.

I have been planning a major overhaul at 9k miles as it seems time to replace the OEM chainring and freewheel. I had rotated two chains, taking the first one out at 50% worn, running a second one until 50% worn, then the first chain going back on until 100% worn, and now using the second chain until it is also 100% worn. The OEM Big Ben plus tires also look like they're due for replacement and I've got some Maxxis Gypsy e-bike tires ready to go. Had also planned on replacing the crankset and bottom bracket at the same time as the crankset was slightly bent after I went down on some ice last year.

Had all these parts ready for the big overhaul, but was just riding along last month when my bottom bracket spindle snapped in between the bottom bracket cups. I suspect this is due to me standing on my cranks often over bumps, which probably causes a lot of torsional shear on the BB spindle. The OEM BB spindle also does not appear to be hardened steel.

This meant I needed to do the BB and crank replacement ahead of schedule. I had decided that I didn't want to use the same FSA made RPM BB with the OEM crankset as they seemed pretty cheap. However, there really aren't many other BB's out there that are wide enough (OEM IS 138 mm spindle). I saw Phil Wood makes something special order at 135 mm. In my parts stash, I had a custom 129 mm spindle Ultegra Octalink BB with 73 mm BB shell spec that Shimano had custom made for my Santana tandem, as well as the 6500 crankset to match. The shorter spindle length would mean that the ST1 LE's single chainring would sit 4.5 mm further inboard, which it looked like there was enough chainstay clearance handle that.

Replacement was pretty straightforward as the ST1 BB shell is standard 73 mm spec. It all works well. The BB spins very nice and I know from my experience with my road bikes that it's a durable unit. The OEM 52t chainring mounted in the inside position, with the OEM chainring guard still on the outside, clears the chainstay by a couple of mm. I had made a custom chain keeper out of some stainless steel rod salvaged from a collapsible laundry basket that you can see in the first pic below. That had to be pulled off and put into a vise to bend it a bit to accommodate the new chainline. It is held onto the seat tube with a couple wraps of innertube and a zip-tie. Has worked beautifully since I put it on in the first year.

Rest of the overhaul will happen in about 200 miles with this last chain eeking out what remaining miles I can get out of the drivetrain. The freewheel has some pretty ovalized teeth, one chipped tooth, and I think the freewheel mechanism is making some clunky noises. OEM chainring is steel and I had flipped it about halfway through to get more miles out of it...it has started to slip under heavy acceleration. I'll do another post about the overhaul later.

Pics attached. Snapped BB spindle with both crank arms pointing down. Parts pulled off showing the BB spindle snapped on the inside of the non-drive bearings. Replacement crankset installed with OEM chainring and chainguard.

Tai
I was wondering what would be a choice if something came up like a little bit of a dent Kranks so it doesn’t switch gears is smooth. Do you think I should just not go that high on the gears with that be a switch choice or fix it and it’s gonna be super expensive question marI was wondering what would be a choice if something came up like a little bit of a dent Kranks so it doesn’t switch gears is smooth. Do you think I should just not go that high on the gears with that be a switch choice or fix it and it’s gonna be super expensive?
 

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sebbybudbud

New Member
Hi. Last week I dropped my Stromer ST1X 2019 taking a turn too fast on a wet road. The right crankset got bend in the crash and needs to be replaced. I would like to order the part myself online and replace it. According to the Stromer spec sheet it should be a FSA Omega 52T, but a google search on this part does not seem to bring anything that resembles what is currently on my bike. Do you know if I should look for it under a different name or is it a speciel Stromer parts that can only be bought through them? Maybe I can replace it with something else if this is the case?
Thanks
Per Larsen
Denmark
is there anyway that I can just use the slightest/slightly bent tooth/ tooths May have the chance to not cause any trouble in the future and it’s permanently attached, the wheel, and the back wheel base just looking at it to takeoff the thunder looks like a nightmare.
cause Stromer SR1 platinum -I don’t know if it’s like the STX (which I know it’s not). But I don’t know if the system of the driving area/sprocket driving train is the same. Because I don’t have a seamless changing of levels of. sorry gears. And maybe if I keep it slow fucking 22 levels of. I’m glad I bought a streamer but I’m really kind of in a pickle an hour because I don’t know what to do with it. It works fine but it doesn’t switch gears seamlessly without even trying. Now it’s a little bit difficult and sometimes I feel like the chain is falling off but maybe it’s just really easy to Have a for moving. I have brain injuries from hockey and I can’t remember the words I’m saying so this is it I’m done here thank you.
also it’s driving me crazy. Is there a no way to tighten the handlebars so that they’re not so easily I can’t think of the word but it’s almost as if the handlebars turn more than a full rotation. Like they have a Gyro system on them but it’s a bike that has a bunch of wires not a Gyro system so is there anything about that or that’s how stromers handle ?
 

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sebbybudbud

New Member
oh and also, Stromer to me is the iPhone of the bike world. Because you can not change a thing without a stronger piece being somewhere in there. It’s kind of very annoying. Because. I just don’t have the money to do this I already got it on special because it was last year‘s model. I don’t have money to pour into An amazing bike don’t get me wrong, but I traded my secondhand car for this. I’d rather be driving a my acura rsx-s and I’m starting to doubt myself. Which is the worst thing in the world. But on my Acura I could easily mix-and-match parts that weren’t even. You could find a Honda Civic part inside an Acura RS ex, just because it’s made off of the same company. I don’t know what to do but just looking for help from the online community. Also Honda and Acura are not the same but Honda was purchased by Acura. So I’m telling people that because I am going to get some s*it for the car when I’m just asking about my bike cars I can easily fix and easily know what’s going on and cheaply pay for it then get raped by price every time I get out online search stromer bike Accessories/Care/parts
 

sebbybudbud

New Member
I literally used the exact same comparison yesterday when I was at the bike shop. My Stromer is like an iPhone. I’m stuck. And the thing is why it works, it works like my car that I traded in for it to have enough money to pay for it. When there’s a little problem like it feels like there’s a break dragging against me trying to propel forward. Then it’s just very hard to keep calm. What can I Do to fix the crankshaft said are the Kranks tooth is spent something is definitely not working and I thought this place would change my life and for six months it did. And it’s still under warranty but Stromer won’t even email me back so.
personally I was really upset when I found out that the full assisted paddling had nothing to do with throttle. Then I wrote this platinum and 30 mph turn into 34 miles showers turned into 36 mph it doesn’t have a governor. I love this bike so much and it would be a shame to see it just turned in the garbage. Because if I just hold down forward on power of the whole time I can go to 28 mph which is 44kmh- if I do both. When it’s working seamlessly, I can easily get up to 66 km/h is what I have talked about that. And I think that was downhill. But what would people do in my position as a college student that works as a bike messenger that doesn’t have millions. I’m just asking what what other people do. Thank you for reading if you did if you didn’t that’s fine it was a long iMessage anyways