Suggestions for 200 mile maintenance?


Well-Known Member
Motobecane ULTRA eAdventure, full suspension, riding great at 180 miles, but I know almost NOTHING about maintenance and I've never owned a full suspension bike of any kind before.

The first thing I'm going to do is wash it-- carefully, no pressure hose, obviously. The only thing I've done so far is wipe a few light rings of grime off the front shocks, which I've done exactly once.

I know it should probably go in soon to have the brakes checked, and have a professional tell me if there's anything I'm missing, but I'd like to wait another month or two to take it in. My LBS is likely to hang onto it for a week, which I will mind less when the warranty work is done on my other bike, and bodyboarding and swimming season has started! My business is also slammed for another two weeks at least, probably three.

The only symptoms I've noticed are just some soft squeaks and vague rattles-- does not sound metallic-- and the derailleur JUST started losing a little bit of its accuracy, probably some cable stretching. The squeaks seem to be coming from the front end, but honestly, I can't be sure. The rear suspension has always felt a hair softer than it needs to be, but is not bottoming out or anything close to it.

Apologies for the noob question-- maintenance information seems to be spread over many different threads. I'm not much of a DYI guy, but if there's anything I can do that any idiot could do and that would reduce risk of serious wear or safety issues before it goes into the shop, that would be great!

Many thanks...


Well-Known Member
I have a full suspension e-mtb different brand. I have 1500 miles. I have replaced the brake pads twice and the chain once. Where I live there is little flat, it is up or down, that's why the brake pads. Since I ride casual on single track, dirt roads and pavement I have not serviced the suspension. I have also not had to adjust the derailleur.

You should go the Park bike tools, their videos will help you learn how your bike works. If you want to learn how to work on your bike this is the place.

I would probably wait until winter to take the bike to dealer for a tune up unless the derailleur goes out of whack. You can always try and adjust it yourself. If you fail, then take it to the LBS.


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Early checkup includes tightness check of every nut or bolt on the bicycle. Some are persistant looseners, which require blue loktite or double nuts. My electric motor axle has double nuts.
I lubricate everything steel every 2 weeks, since my bike gets ridden or parked in the rain frequently. 5 W non-detergent oil, type F or A atf is the cheapest source. NOT DEXRON compatible ATF. I lube my chain with that, which lasted 5000 miles the first time. Eagle pump oiler. I never clean the chain, only untangle string or grass stems as required.


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Motobecane is a Bikesdirect brand. It used to be an independent well known brand, but went defunct (bankrupt?) and a Taiwanese online order company bought the brand name. Did you have an LBS put it together for you and adjust it when you received the bike? It is not hard to adjust the derailleur and doesn't need special tools. The Park videos will walk you through it. You may just need to tweak the barrel adjuster, but you should check the limit screws if that wasn't done when you got the bike. I lube my chain every 100 miles or so, but the chain comes with lubricant on it that is probably good for the first 200 miles. If want to switch to a dry lube or wax, you will need to clean the chain first. I use 3-in-One oil, but there are a lot of different opinions out there on the best lubricant to use.


Well-Known Member
200 miles is a little early, but reasonable place to start if you're gonna DIY

• For cleaning them up, I don't really 'wash' my bikes, just a quick spritz of a hose to clear the dirt off the tires and the big chunks of mud and such, wipe them down. I do this after each extended ride.
• Chain maintenance is needed pretty much every ride, unless it stays clean. But with any miles they start to turn black, and that is the chain lube picking up dirt and grinding it in. My preferrence, going way back into the early motorcycle days, is to clean it with WD40 and a cotton rag, then lube with TriFlo, wipe off excess. There are plenty of other options, and everybody has their favorites - mine is TriFlo - cheap and good, just how I like. My Trance has about 800 miles and still not even starting to wear - get a chain-wear gauge and check it every few times you clean and lube the chain. Unless it still looks really clean, I'll usually do this after each ride.
• Derailleur adjustment/tune is generally required by now - some good YT vids on what's entailed. Mainly you're going to set the top idler the right distance from the closest sprocket, and then adjust shifting points to properly line up with your cassette rings. Go thru the gears, make sure it's shifting perfectly.
• Shock/fork legs/dropper post - wipe them off with a soft cloth, a little WD or Amsoil MP is fine here. Just keep them clean.
• Spoke tension - I check spoke tension with the ping method, snug up and dead-sounding ones. I've never had a rim go out of true with keeping them up this way.
• Tire Pressure - I prefer a hand/floor pump with a pressure gauge built in, set pressure each ride.
• Battery contacts - I will usually check and clean these when cleaning up the bike. They can get dusty and/or water in them if you wash the bike. A dielectric grease is optional. Oh, and recharge your battery pack to 60% or thereabouts for storage. If you're going out again the next day you can charge it all the way up. The worst is letting it sit fully discharged or fully charged for extended periods. Keep it 50-60%. Better chargers have a 60% partial or 'storage' charge setting.
• 303 Aerospace Protectant does wonders on any vinyl, plastic or rubber parts, including tire sidewalls and black rims. Everyone should have a botttle of this stuff for detailing their car. It makes old stuff look like new, and provides for "SPF40 for all your stuff". Just don't apply it to your saddle. LOL
• Check your suspension travel full-stop points before wiping down the legs, and adjust your air pressure accordingly. You should be using all of your travel at some point in your ride - too soft they'll bottom out and sag, too hard and the ride is harder than necessary.

Some things not to do...
• Don't wash the bike upside down. If you turn it over on the seat and bars for wheel and chain maintenance, let it sit for a few minutes on uprighting to make sure you don't have air in the hydraulic brake lines. Pump the handles for both to make sure the fluid is pumped up. Sometimes you'll find a lot of slack in them, just letting you know before you jump on it and try to actually use your brakes. The entire bike is made to drain everything when upright, so getting water in it while up-ended is a really bad idea.
• If you drip or overspray ANYTHING on your brake rotors, clean them off with prepsol or alcohol, or you'll contaminate your pads.

EDIT: Never use a pressure-washer on a bicycle. You'll get water in where it's not supposed to be.
I loathe them for cars as well, but you're on your own there. ;)
I think they work great for CONCRETE. 🤣

I think that about covers what I pay attention to.
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Well-Known Member
Whoa! Great ideas, guys. Yes, I did have the bike professionally assembled at LBS, they told me first service in a month, and I just kind of smiled... that would really be absurd! I need to check out the Park videos. I use an electric pump with a built-in pressure gauge (auto shut off) for the tires.

The rattling, fortunately, turned out to be the aftermarket water bottle holder, which I tightened up. I have been doing most of my charges to full, but will probably start charging to 80%, or shortly after the last light starts blinking. Many thanks! This should get me off to a great start.