Used Rize RX Pro

Peligro

New Member
Region
USA
I recently bought a used Rize RX Pro. Nice bike, getting used to how it handles on the trail. I noticed the headset feels loose. I tightened it, but there is still a lot of play. The shock makes a loud clunking noice, I think when it tops out. It doesn’t feel blown, but the noise just isn’t right. That isn’t a common characteristic, is it? I also had my right crank come off while hammering up a rocky hill. I was able to find the Allen bolt, and put it back in. Is a blue thread lock compound ok to use, or should I replace the bolt?
It’s used, so I’m aware I’ll be replacing worn parts as I go.
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
That bolt needs to be pretty tight, but I'm not sure I'd use a thread locker. Maybe hold up on that for some input from others.

My front fork tops out with a bang too. Some of us are calling them pogo sticks. I still say though, they beat a fixed fork. Mine will be replaced soon with a air type.
 

Gionnirocket

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Y. O.
I recently bought a used Rize RX Pro. Nice bike, getting used to how it handles on the trail. I noticed the headset feels loose. I tightened it, but there is still a lot of play. The shock makes a loud clunking noice, I think when it tops out. It doesn’t feel blown, but the noise just isn’t right. That isn’t a common characteristic, is it? I also had my right crank come off while hammering up a rocky hill. I was able to find the Allen bolt, and put it back in. Is a blue thread lock compound ok to use, or should I replace the bolt?
It’s used, so I’m aware I’ll be replacing worn parts as I go.
I've attached cranks using blue Threadlock with 100% success and have never had an issue removing it when needed either. I grease the shank as well for easy crank pulls.
 

theemartymac

Well-Known Member
Make sure you take the time to set the preload (sag) on the fork, and it can help reduce the top out. That is actually what it is for, not just a stiffer/softer ride. Technically weight is set with spring rate (spring gauge), or air on a higher end fork, and preload (sag) determines the travel range of the shock. Putting it in the right spot ensures you have roughly 1/4 - 1/3 travel down (to prevent top-out), and 3/4 - 2/3's travel up (for impact absorption) give or take your personal preference. Don't expect amazing results though on a basic fork without rebound or damping adjustments.

Lots of google videos on how to do it with a zip tie to help you measure the sag. (00:45 for front fork)



And I had a loose crank on my Rize X last year, and I had to go a little over factory torque spec to get it to hold, but it's been fine since. These somewhat lower-end bikes are often not subject to the highest quality machining, so you have to expect a bit of a range in specs. Personally I'd only replace it if it's been visibly damaged, or significantly over-torqued, as that means the metal has probably yielded and lost some strength. But I'm not a bike tech or engineer, just a random guy in the webernets... ;-)
 

Bubba zanetti

Active Member
Region
Canada
City
Trail, BC
I’ll check mine today as after reading a few others experiencing Crank loosening, I tightened mine.
I will replace my forks this winter. They are beneficial, but cheap crap. It’s all what I expected for a $3100 cdn. and free shipping. I still believe that to be the best deal/components in ebikes at the time.
 

tarhead

Member
I recently bought a used Rize RX Pro. Nice bike, getting used to how it handles on the trail. I noticed the headset feels loose. I tightened it, but there is still a lot of play. The shock makes a loud clunking noice, I think when it tops out. It doesn’t feel blown, but the noise just isn’t right. That isn’t a common characteristic, is it? I also had my right crank come off while hammering up a rocky hill. I was able to find the Allen bolt, and put it back in. Is a blue thread lock compound ok to use, or should I replace the bolt?
It’s used, so I’m aware I’ll be replacing worn parts as I go.
Re the loose headset. Check the bolt on the handlebar stem. Mine works loose quite often. Could feel like a loose headset.
 

Peligro

New Member
Region
USA
I’ll check mine today as after reading a few others experiencing Crank loosening, I tightened mine.
I will replace my forks this winter. They are beneficial, but cheap crap. It’s all what I expected for a $3100 cdn. and free shipping. I still believe that to be the best deal/components in ebikes at the time.
Thanks for the response. I am considering the Manitou Mastidon (sp?). I will need help determining what size/length, and if it really is compatible. I’ve been checking with a couple local bike shops for advice. Getting a stiffer fork with better shock absorption would really dial this bike in.
 

Peligro

New Member
Region
USA
Hope you share your learning and progress.
I flipped the bike upside down and looked at the fork. The nut on the bottom left (pre-load) of the fork is tight. The Allen bolt on the bottom of the right side (lock out) is loose, and the source of the rattling. It won’t tighten. I couldn’t attach a quick movie file, but a simple pic was allowed.
It looks like I may be upgrading this front suspension sooner than I thought. Is it just the lock out feature that’s blown? the shock still fells moderately dampened.
I hope I can find a compatible Manitou Mastodon.
 

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theemartymac

Well-Known Member
I flipped the bike upside down and looked at the fork. The nut on the bottom left (pre-load) of the fork is tight. The Allen bolt on the bottom of the right side (lock out) is loose, and the source of the rattling. It won’t tighten. I couldn’t attach a quick movie file, but a simple pic was allowed.
It looks like I may be upgrading this front suspension sooner than I thought. Is it just the lock out feature that’s blown? the shock still fells moderately dampened.
I hope I can find a compatible Manitou Mastodon.
The only big consideration with a Mastadon is that they don't come with a quick release skewer axle option AFAIK. You would have to swap out a hub compatible with the through axle on the front tire. Not big deal, just some extra expense if you need a shop to do it.

I'm not sure on the lockout issue you mention, as I haven't opened up my shock yet. It may not be an issue, as the lockout is definitely only a simple friction lock. There is no spring on that side.
 

theemartymac

Well-Known Member
I've only started to casually look for forks so far as stock is as limited as everything else during COVID. The primo options are the Rockshox Bluto, Manitou Mastadon Pro, DNM 6Fat, Wren Fat Bike, etc. but all will require a through axle hub swap. Great forks for real off-road use, but $$$$ and overkill for casual riders who just want a better option with the full range of adjustability. I can't say I feel the Rize bike and stock components are up to the potential of those forks, but if you have money to burn they will not disappoint, and you will be able to resell them easily if needed.

Some of the entry and mid-range options that will accept quick release seem to be:




The RST is available on some fat bikes from the factory, and the Luna seems hard to find in stock. The Bolton seems very promising for the city/trail rider who just wants an affordable upgrade. I might try that one, as it's not so expensive that I would take a major hit if I had to sell it and go better.

If anyone finds other options that accept a QR axle, PLEASE post them up. Fat bike options and selection are decent, but far from great.
 

Comfortably Numb

Active Member
I flipped the bike upside down and looked at the fork. The nut on the bottom left (pre-load) of the fork is tight. The Allen bolt on the bottom of the right side (lock out) is loose, and the source of the rattling. It won’t tighten. I couldn’t attach a quick movie file, but a simple pic was allowed.
It looks like I may be upgrading this front suspension sooner than I thought. Is it just the lock out feature that’s blown? the shock still fells moderately dampened.
I hope I can find a compatible Manitou Mastodon.
How handy are you, or do you have access to a machine shop? That bolt going up into the fork leg is to hold the damping rod tight Into the bottom of the fork leg. Sounds like it is stripped. Likely the threads in the rod inside, not the bolt itself. The rod will be softer material. This bolt is kind of the ‘jesus’ bolt of the fork leg. It keeps everything together. That it’s not holding tight is likely why you get the bang at top out. You’ll need to pull the fork leg off and remove the top cap to release the spring pressure or air preload, empty the fork oil (it is a spring /oil fork, or air/oil fork, right?) and then back the bolt on the bottom out. When you turn the leg upside down everything should just slide out. (You won’t need to separate the fork tube from the leg or replace the seals if you’re careful) Just drill out the stripped threads ONLY and retap a new set of threads to match a new, slightly larger bolt and reassemble everything. I’d use blue Loctite on the bolt. You’ll need to determine the amount and viscosity of the replacement oil, and unless you’re able to drain or flush out all the oil that’s there it will take slightly less upon re-filling. (You also just might have to drill out the hole in the leg to accommodate the new bolt‘s slightly larger diameter if the existing opening is too small) I am not familiar with the fork on your bike but I’m thinking it can’t be as sophisticated as many motorcycle forks. It’s likely easier to do than it sounds once you see it all apart. I’m not sure I’d want to Helicoil this fix, but that just might be a possibility too.
Right off the bat, I’d look to see if you can find an exploded view of this fork leg somewhere. CN
 

Comfortably Numb

Active Member
I'm not sure on the lockout issue you mention, as I haven't opened up my shock yet. It may not be an issue, as the lockout is definitely only a simple friction lock. There is no spring on that side.
Friction lock? I’d think it would be hydraulic. I can’t see any fork working decently without oil. A spring or air would be for rebound and setting sag with oil for damping.
i believe the lockout is hydraulic on the Suntour forks of my new Cube.

CN
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Friction lock? I’d think it would be hydraulic. I can’t see any fork working decently without oil. A spring or air would be for rebound and setting sag with oil for damping.
i believe the lockout is hydraulic on the Suntour forks of my new Cube.

CN
I don't think the shock we're discussing is hydraulic. In fact, pretty sure it's not. Think pogo stick....
1 step above a fixed front fork......
 

AHicks

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
I've only started to casually look for forks so far as stock is as limited as everything else during COVID. The primo options are the Rockshox Bluto, Manitou Mastadon Pro, DNM 6Fat, Wren Fat Bike, etc. but all will require a through axle hub swap. Great forks for real off-road use, but $$$$ and overkill for casual riders who just want a better option with the full range of adjustability. I can't say I feel the Rize bike and stock components are up to the potential of those forks, but if you have money to burn they will not disappoint, and you will be able to resell them easily if needed.

Some of the entry and mid-range options that will accept quick release seem to be:




The RST is available on some fat bikes from the factory, and the Luna seems hard to find in stock. The Bolton seems very promising for the city/trail rider who just wants an affordable upgrade. I might try that one, as it's not so expensive that I would take a major hit if I had to sell it and go better.

If anyone finds other options that accept a QR axle, PLEASE post them up. Fat bike options and selection are decent, but far from great.
My bike is now at the other end of the line, and will be until fall (snowbird with bikes at both ends). This gives me some time to research/develop a plan for me as well as a chance to watch what others do. Knowing you're about the same size I am (F.A.R.C.), will be watching to see what you do for sure! -Al
 

Peligro

New Member
Region
USA
I appreciate everyone’s replies. I’m still a newb with this RX. There is frequent mention of quick release skewers. At the risk of sounding naive, I don’t have QR on either axel. They are hex bolted axels. My 90’s generation GT has QR, I swapped the Shimano it came with for Kore. I would love to have QR on both axles for ease of trailside flat repair. I didn’t know they made them stout enough for these 80lb beasts.
See pics.
 

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Peligro

New Member
Region
USA
I've only started to casually look for forks so far as stock is as limited as everything else during COVID. The primo options are the Rockshox Bluto, Manitou Mastadon Pro, DNM 6Fat, Wren Fat Bike, etc. but all will require a through axle hub swap. Great forks for real off-road use, but $$$$ and overkill for casual riders who just want a better option with the full range of adjustability. I can't say I feel the Rize bike and stock components are up to the potential of those forks, but if you have money to burn they will not disappoint, and you will be able to resell them easily if needed.

Some of the entry and mid-range options that will accept quick release seem to be:




The RST is available on some fat bikes from the factory, and the Luna seems hard to find in stock. The Bolton seems very promising for the city/trail rider who just wants an affordable upgrade. I might try that one, as it's not so expensive that I would take a major hit if I had to sell it and go better.

If anyone finds other options that accept a QR axle, PLEASE post them up. Fat bike options and selection are decent, but far from great.
You responded with good advice, I appreciate it. I’ve been surfing more and riding less. I am still considering replacing the fork. A couple different bike mechanics recommended the RST Guide, because of its compatibility. The Bolt-On shock you shared a link for looks good. It might be lighter, too. I am thinking of pulling the trigger and getting the Bolt-On.
The expensive forks I previously mentioned do require a wheel/re-build like you warned. That’s getting too costly.
Any recommendations on the forum between the RST Guide vs the Bolt-On?