Voltage / watts compatibility.

Mosquito teeth.

New Member
United Kingdom
Hi to all ! .

I was surprised following repairs ( new motor / new controller ) to find that changing from a 24v MY 1018 brushed motor + 500W controller to a 36v motor + 1000w controller actually resulted in decreased power and speed ? .
A little disappointing and particularly that there is no gain in range as might be expected .

I am tempted to try a 500w controller as I have found a reasonably priced source and would like a spare anyway , but somewhere I read that the wattage of controller makes little difference ? .

Its very "hilly " where I live so I decided to install an auxiliary 36v battery in the trunk of this joy of a vehicle .

Any advice as to the best combination balance between power / longevity would be welcome .


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Well-Known Member
I had a 48 v 1000 W Mac 12t geared hub motor that was really useful for pulling 330 lb gross up 15" grades, without my assistance if I didn't want to. It was the last one in the USA and came with a clutch that slipped 10% of the time, but I kept it because it was so perfect otherwise. 2500 miles later the clutch was slipping 1/3 of the time, when rain burnt the pins off the ASi controller into the wire harness. Due the the expletive deleted 3 class laws now, you can't buy these in the US. You are allowed to buy a pallet of them direct from Shanghai, unless customs stops them at the sorting hub. I don't need 8, I need one. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Mac-bldc-hub-motor-6T-8T_60512780782.html Thank you, industry association. I'm such a danger to children grinding up hills at 6 mph.
I'm going to replace it by converting my 4200 lb Ford to propane. Gets 5 mph on RFG, maybe propane will be better. I'm not buying a car doomed to check engine disease in 11 years by a corrosive wire harness/computer interface. Designed to fail at the manufacturer's chosen time. I might have 25000 miles on a new car in 11 years.
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Well-Known Member
Lots of variables. If you used an ebike motor in place of the My1018, the gearing of your bike may limit your speed. A bike motor might be better in the front wheel. Maybe run both together?
I see where a MY1018 spins around 450 rpm. If that is measured at the drive gear, then your brushless motor needs to spin that fast or faster, EBike hub motors tend to spin 200-300 rpm at the axle.



Well-Known Member
I think the performance results have more to do with the equipment in play than they do 24v vs. 36v. As noted above: Variables.

Just for starters, acceleration is governed by controller amps. The watts are irrelevant. So if you had a controller with, say, peak output of 35a and continuous output of 17a, and your 36v controller has output of 25a peak and 12a continuous... then your 36v system would provide less acceleration oomph. I'm ignoring the difference in motors which also will play a role.

Your typical controller will list peak and continuous amp output on the label on its casing.