What’s your winter ebike-related project you’re working on?

Dallant

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
I just couldn't resist switching the drivetrain on my Specialized Turbo Vado SL. When I bought the bike in the summer I pledged not to spend a lot of money upgrading the components. I definitely broke that promise to myself. First in late fall I added carbon gravel rims and Schwalbe Aerothan tubes. That upgrade provided a noticeable change in performance and ride quality. Then with the last month of frigid weather and snow I got antsy and spent too much time browsing through bicycle supply websites. Which led to swapping the stock Shimano drivetrain for the electronic SRAM AXS - which really cleaned up the cockpit nicely. I hope to test it out tomorrow.
Pictures!
 

Saratoga Dave

Well-Known Member
I’m looking forward to your take on the SRAM etap upgrade... my trigger finger has been twitching badly over that of late.
 

6zfshdb

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Northeast Pennsylvania
I just couldn't resist switching the drivetrain on my Specialized Turbo Vado SL. When I bought the bike in the summer I pledged not to spend a lot of money upgrading the components. I definitely broke that promise to myself. First in late fall I added carbon gravel rims and Schwalbe Aerothan tubes. That upgrade provided a noticeable change in performance and ride quality. Then with the last month of frigid weather and snow I got antsy and spent too much time browsing through bicycle supply websites. Which led to swapping the stock Shimano drivetrain for the electronic SRAM AXS - which really cleaned up the cockpit nicely. I hope to test it out tomorrow.
Did the Shimano to SRAM AXS conversion require replacing the OEM crankset? If so, how did it affect the torque sensor?
 

tomjasz

Well-Known Member
This has been a forever project. A year of health issues has kept me from doing any wrenching. This too shall pass, I need the bike this spring. It's a scratch build on a Marin Hybrid stepthrough. Mac 10T, Grin Baserunner, and DIY shop built battery. This will be near the last full build. Been there done that...
1614446022861.png
 

Dallant

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
So took the UnderTopper system on a 400 mile trip and it’s very easy to load/connect and is totally solid! now I just need to update the truck w/new tires, shocks, etc., and it’s cross-country time! Anyone got a proven/cheap way to make a 5.3 Silverado get 30 mpg?
 

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6zfshdb

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Northeast Pennsylvania
So took the UnderTopper system on a 400 mile trip and it’s very easy to load/connect and is totally solid! now I just need to update the truck w/new tires, shocks, etc., and it’s cross-country time! Anyone got a proven/cheap way to make a 5.3 Silverado get 30 mpg?
That's a great setup you made!
I wish I could do something similar with my GMC Sierra which is pretty much equivalent to your Silverado. With the stem riser on my bike, I couldn't locate a topper high enough to clear the bars.
Instead, I replaced my low side tool boxes with full the rise type. The bars still extend above the top of the boxes but I'm looking into a soft top of some sort.

Pic 1.JPG Pic 6.jpg P1080727b.jpg P1080725b.jpg

The high side boxes also offer more than twice the storage space. They allow me to better organize, and have easy access to my riding gear.

I'm hoping something like this, stretched over the top of the tool boxes, will stay together at highway speeds. At the very least, it would keep the bikes dry when parked.

71ndRhPWemL._AC_SL1500_ (1).jpg

I hear you about getting 30 mpg. I log on average 10K miles per season travelling to notable riding locations. On a good day, I average 18 mpg. I'm eyeing the Katy Trail in MO for a trip this spring and that one will burn a lot of gas.
 

john peck

Well-Known Member
001.JPG

I´ve decided to turn this into an ebike. It´s an ´84 Univega mixte, tange pro tubing. The frameset weighs
just 3 1/2 pds. The top tube is a piece of alu sail spar added to support my inframe pannier, but also
adds structural support. I put a 700 wheel in back which barely clears the brake mount. I have a 48v 1000w
28¨ x 1.75¨ motored wheel, but the most that will clear is 1.50¨. This means I have to cut the upper stay
spreader & mount a new one 3/8¨ higher or I could put a 1. 50 on the wheel which may not be enough
for the extra weight. I have everything else for the kit, & a choice of 13ah or 8ah batteries to mount under
the dbl. tubes. I originally used the wheel to replace the one on the CCS motor with damaged spoke bores.
(now a parts bike). It is a much better whl will 12g spokes. The conversion kit is meant to turn a road bike
into a 40 pd., 40 mph bike. With the 8ah bat., I think I can bring it in a 35 pd. The the 8ah charges in 2 hrs.
I bought this bike pristine on CL for $60 from someone without a clue what it was, a race-bilt at 22 pds.
(tacoed the original whls)🙄.
 
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Dallant

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
View attachment 80354
I´ve decided to turn this into an ebike. It´s an ´84 Univega mixte, tange pro tubing. The frameset weighs
just 3 1/2 pds. The top tube is a piece of alu sail spar added to support my inframe pannier, but also
adds structural support. I put a 700 wheel in back which barely clears the brake mount. I have a 48v 1000w
28¨ x 1.75¨ motored wheel, but the most that will clear is 1.50¨. This means I have to cut the upper stay
spreader & mount a new one 3/8¨ higher or I could put a 1. 50 on the wheel which may not be enough
for the extra weight. I have everything else for the kit, & a choice of 13ah or 8ah batteries to mount under
the dbl. tubes. I originally used the wheel to replace the one on the CCS motor with damaged spoke bores.
(now a parts bike). It is a much better whl will 12g spokes. The conversion kit is meant to turn a road bike
into a 40 pd., 40 mph bike. With the 8ah bat., I think I can bring it in a 35 pd. The the 8ah charges in 2 hrs.
I bought this bike pristine on CL for $60 from someone without a clue what it was, a race-bilt at 22 pds.
(tacoed the original whls)🙄.
You must have very long legs!👍
 

Dallant

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
That's a great setup you made!
I wish I could do something similar with my GMC Sierra which is pretty much equivalent to your Silverado. With the stem riser on my bike, I couldn't locate a topper high enough to clear the bars.
Instead, I replaced my low side tool boxes with full the rise type. The bars still extend above the top of the boxes but I'm looking into a soft top of some sort.

View attachment 80337 View attachment 80338 View attachment 80336 View attachment 80335

The high side boxes also offer more than twice the storage space. They allow me to better organize, and have easy access to my riding gear.

I'm hoping something like this, stretched over the top of the tool boxes, will stay together at highway speeds. At the very least, it would keep the bikes dry when parked.

View attachment 80339

I hear you about getting 30 mpg. I log on average 10K miles per season travelling to notable riding locations. On a good day, I average 18 mpg. I'm eyeing the Katy Trail in MO for a trip this spring and that one will burn a lot of gas.
18mpg would be on a good day for mine too. I can tell you that my topper was one of the few used ones that I found (on Craigslist) that would fit my ‘03. It’s a ‘11 Jason Force, which I’d never heard of before.
 

john peck

Well-Known Member
View attachment 80354
I´ve decided to turn this into an ebike. It´s an ´84 Univega mixte, tange pro tubing. The frameset weighs
just 3 1/2 pds. The top tube is a piece of alu sail spar added to support my inframe pannier, but also
adds structural support. I put a 700 wheel in back which barely clears the brake mount. I have a 48v 1000w
28¨ x 1.75¨ motored wheel, but the most that will clear is 1.50¨. This means I have to cut the upper stay
spreader & mount a new one 3/8¨ higher or I could put a 1. 50 on the wheel which may not be enough
for the extra weight. I have everything else for the kit, & a choice of 13ah or 8ah batteries to mount under
the dbl. tubes. I originally used the wheel to replace the one on the CCS motor with damaged spoke bores.
(now a parts bike). It is a much better whl will 12g spokes. The conversion kit is meant to turn a road bike
into a 40 pd., 40 mph bike. With the 8ah bat., I think I can bring it in a 35 pd. The the 8ah charges in 2 hrs.
I bought this bike pristine on CL for $60 from someone without a clue what it was, a race-bilt at 22 pds.
(tacoed the original whls)🙄.

You must have very long legs!👍
Yup. Ran into some snags, but shouldn´t be too hard to fix. I can move brake down to middle stays
& use a 700/38 instead of cutting the spreader. That gains the 3/8¨ I need. Front & rear derailleurs are
shot, I have a new rear. Can´t find a triple the will fit the skinny down tube, so going back to a 50/34 compact.
I need to ditch the disc on the motor wheel to get a fit, also racks to keep down weight. A better brake set
would be nice. If I didn´t have horizontal dropouts, I could a 700/47 on. Should end up with an ebike I can
load on a bus rack no sweat.
 
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PedalUma

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
I just finished the Surly Big Dummy an took it on a test ride. It is a Class 1 torque sensor mid drive with 80Nm. With one 10.5Ah battery it weighs 25.1Kg or 55.3Lbs. It has a second battery that is 8.7Ah for longer excursions or just to quickly swap. I have included a before picture.
 

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Over50

Well-Known Member
Did the Shimano to SRAM AXS conversion require replacing the OEM crankset? If so, how did it affect the torque sensor?
No. Stock crankset still on the bike. No impact to torque sensor. I've had a couple of 15-20 mile rides and the SRAM is very smooth.
 

6zfshdb

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
City
Northeast Pennsylvania
I finished my second winter project just in time to take advantage of the warm early spring weather. The first project was to replace the low side truck storage boxes with the full size version which was shown in post #46. The second project was to add an electric winch to the slide out bike rack to make it easier to load.
P1080796b.jpg P1080817b.jpg

I added a boat trailer winch to an unused storage container mounted on the rack. I put the winch on the rack instead of mounting it in the truck. That way, the truck bed is completely empty when the rack is removed.
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Now, I walk behind the rack and guide it while operating the controls as the winch pulls the rack into the bed. No lifting or pushing is required.
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