Espin Flow Review

Espin Flow Electric Bike Review
Espin Flow
Espin Flow Bafang Geared Hub Motor 350 Watt Nominal
Espin Flow Integrated Downtube Battery With Lock
Espin Flow Locking Ergonomic Grips Adjustable Angle Stem
Espin Flow Basic Sr Suntour Nex Suspension Fork
Espin Flow 160 Mm Tektro Novela Mechanical Disc Brakes
Espin Flow 5 Magnet Cadence Sensor
Espin Flow Eight Speed Shimano Altus Drivetrain
Espin Flow Sturdy Cargo Rack With Pannier Blockers
Espin Flow Selle Royal Free Way Gel Saddle 1
Espin Flow 36 Volt 11 6 Am Hour Battery Pack
Espin Flow Electric Bike Review
Espin Flow
Espin Flow Bafang Geared Hub Motor 350 Watt Nominal
Espin Flow Integrated Downtube Battery With Lock
Espin Flow Locking Ergonomic Grips Adjustable Angle Stem
Espin Flow Basic Sr Suntour Nex Suspension Fork
Espin Flow 160 Mm Tektro Novela Mechanical Disc Brakes
Espin Flow 5 Magnet Cadence Sensor
Espin Flow Eight Speed Shimano Altus Drivetrain
Espin Flow Sturdy Cargo Rack With Pannier Blockers
Espin Flow Selle Royal Free Way Gel Saddle 1
Espin Flow 36 Volt 11 6 Am Hour Battery Pack


  • A value priced speed pedelec with assistance up to 25 mph, eight-speed Shimano Altus drivetrain, 160 mm mechanical disc brakes with motor inhibitors
  • Reflective tires and integrated headlight increase the visual footprint and are a big deal on the all-black color, they also offer an all-white option
  • Swept back handlebar, adjustable stem, ergonomic locking grips, basic suspension fork and upgraded Selle Royale saddle improve comfort and fit
  • Battery cannot be charged on-frame which increases risk of drops and requires extra time, very basic four-magnet cadence sensor, some frame flex and speed wobble on the step-thru frame

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Video Review

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Body Position:

Upright, Upright Relaxed

Suggested Use:

Neighborhood, Urban, Commuting

Electric Bike Class:

Speed Pedalec (Class 3)
Learn more about Ebike classes


1 Year Comprehensive, 3 Year Frame


United States

Model Year:


Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

53.9 lbs (24.44 kg)

Battery Weight:

6.2 lbs (2.81 kg)

Motor Weight:

7 lbs (3.17 kg)

Frame Material:

6061 Aluminum Alloy

Frame Sizes:

17 in (43.18 cm)20 in (50.8 cm)

Geometry Measurements:

Step-Thru: 17" Seat Tube, 25" Reach, 21" Stand Over Height, 70" Length

Frame Types:

Step-Thru, High-Step

Frame Colors:

Matte Black, Matte White

Frame Fork Details:

SR Suntour NEX Suspension, 9 mm Quick Release Skewer (Optional Rigid Fork)

Frame Rear Details:

10 mm Threaded Axle with Nuts

Attachment Points:

Rear Rack Bosses, Fender Bosses

Gearing Details:

8 Speed 1x8 Shimano Altus, CS-HG200-8, 11-32T

Shifter Details:

Shimano Triggers on Right


170 mm Length, Aluminum Alloy, 42T Chainring with Alloy Guard


Alloy Platform Cage Style


Tapered 1-1/8" to 1-1/2"


Adjustable Angle 0° to 60°


Swept Back Riser, 24" Width

Brake Details:

Tektro Novela Mechanical Disc with 160 mm Rotors, Tektro Levers with Motor Inhibitors, Integrated Bell on Left and Rubberized Edge


Ergonomic Rubber, Locking


Selle Royal, Free Way

Seat Post:

Aluminum Alloy

Seat Post Length:

350 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

30.4 mm


Double Wall, Aluminum Alloy, 36 Hole


Stainless Steel, 13G, Black with Nipples

Tire Brand:

Kenda Kwest, 26" x 1.95"

Wheel Sizes:

26 in (66.04cm)

Tire Details:

40 to 65 PSI, Reflective Sidewall Stripe

Tube Details:

Schrader Valve


Integrated GESTAR LED Headlight with Physical On/Off, Adjustable Length Kickstand Rear Mounted, Aluminum Alloy Rack with Pannier Guards (25kg Max Weight), Optional Plastic Black Fenders ($39), Optional Pannier Bags ($99)


Locking Removable Battery Pack, Internally Routed Cables, 1.5 lb 2 Amp Charger

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:


Motor Type:

Rear-Mounted Geared Hub
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

350 watts

Motor Peak Output:

500 watts

Motor Torque:

45 Newton meters

Battery Brand:


Battery Voltage:

36 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

11.6 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

417.6 wh

Battery Chemistry:


Charge Time:

4.5 hours

Estimated Min Range:

20 miles (32 km)

Estimated Max Range:

50 miles (80 km)

Display Type:

Fixed, Monochrome, Backlit LCD


Speed, Avg Speed, Max Speed, Battery Level (5 Bars), Assist Level (0-5), Lights, Trip, Odometer, Time

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pad on Right

Drive Mode:

Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist (5 Magnet Sensor)

Top Speed:

25 mph (40 kph)

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Written Review

I first discovered the Espin electric bikes through an article on Clean Technica where a writer had used a demo model for a bit of commuting in San Francisco. They wrote that it performed well but struggled a bit with some of the steeper climbs (I was told by the folks at Espin that his battery was pretty low when he attempted the hills). While I was unable to experiment with torque and climbing, I was impressed with the higher top speed (up to ~25 mph) and Class 3 performance for an e-bike priced under $2k. This is not a perfect product, the battery has to be removed in order to charge which requires extra time and care, but the frame is approachable and the experience is fun and zippy. There’s no throttle, which sort of surprised me at first given some of the literature I studied before having a chance to ride. Instead, it uses a very basic four-magnet cadence sensor mounted at the crank spindle. You don’t get immediate help starting the bike because one of those magnets needs to pass an electronic sensor for the motor to kick in and that can be a struggle if you’ve loaded up the rear rack, forgotten to shift to a lower gear or are starting on an incline. Espin let me know that they do have a walk mode sort of thing if you hold the minus button down for a few seconds, this takes you up to ~4 mph. Other electric bikes are starting to mix torque and cadence sensors or offer throttle power so you can overcome this moment of pressure but again, once the motor does kick in, it feels pretty zippy. I love that this bike comes in high-step and step-thru frames, how adjustable the stem is and that you can choose from white or black colors but always benefit from the reflective tires and integrated LED headlight. I’d definitely add a back light and possibly attach it to the rear portion of a trunk bag so it could always come with me when parking the bike. The display is not removable and there’s no bottle cage mounting point but solutions exist to overcome this. I guess what I’m saying is that there are little areas that could use refining and I would have expected a lower price given the online-only direct to consumer model. You’ll likely receive this product in a large box and be required to take some time to set it up yourself. For that trade in time and effort, usually ebikes are priced lower and the motor and battery here are sort of average sized. The big standout is the slightly higher top speed, and for some, that can be an important feature (especially for commuting) but it can impact range… as you ride over 20 mph the air resistance decreases your efficiency significantly.

Driving the bike is a fairly average 350 watt planetary geared hub motor from Bafang. I like that it’s black, that it feels zippy and is light and compact but wish the motor cable was tucked in a bit nicer. As it stands the power cable comes out amongst the derailleur and shifter cables. It’s a little busy and crowded there and I didn’t see a metal hangar guard or other protection in place. If the bike gets close to a wall or bush and snags, the motor cable could become vulnerable. Same thing if the bike tips over onto its side. This is not especially unique to hub motors but many newer designs are routing power into the left side of the rear axle and tucking the wires much closer to the frame, between the disc brake rotor and frame tubing. The disc brakes used on this bike are value level, they are mechanical which means the levers do not offer adjustable reach (though I do like the rubberized edges and integrated bell). You get motor inhibitors so each time you pull either or both brakes the electonic systems stop. That’s a great feature given the more basic cadence sensor.

Powering the bike is a 36 volt 11.6 amp hour battery pack that fits into the downtube. I love the positioning and matching colors and I like that they went with Lithium-ion cells but they didn’t say who the manufacturer was. You get a one year comprehensive warranty with this product but Espin is new and you’ll be dealing with them directly vs. through a shop. My biggest gripe about the battery wasn’t its average size or how it interfaces or stows weight (in the center which is great for balance), it’s that you must remove it each and every time you wish to refill it. This would become a chore pretty quickly and presents the risk of drops. The charger is a basic 2 Amp model that I did not get to see in person but is likely about 1.5 lbs and fairly compact. There are only a few mid-level chargers out there due to UL certification and I’m guessing it’s one of those based on conversations I had with representatives from the company.

Operating the bike is fairly straight forward. You don’t have to turn the battery on separate from the display, it all activates with a single rubber power button at the middle of the control pad. Press this for a second or two and the display comes to life. It shows all of the standard readouts like speed, assist level (up to 5) and battery capacity. I’ve seen and used this display system many times and appreciate how large and easy to read it is. While you don’t get a USB charging port or the ability to remove the display, it does swivel to reduce glare and the remote button pad is easy to reach and understand. My one word of caution would be to avoid snagging this button pad because the plastic clickers can get pulled up and even broken off. It’s not quite as durable as the rubber coated buttons on some other models but might be easier to press… I’m guessing that it’s resilient to water and don’t see any other concerns, just the cover bit where the clicker surface can get bent upwards and eventually broken off if it snags on your shirt sleeve or other fabrics.

All things considered, I like the balance and weight distribution of this bike. I was a little concerned with the higher speed riding because the suspension fork and larger handle bar adds weight up front so there could be speed wobble. I ride with no hands to test this (as shown in the video) and it wasn’t a major concern, just an area to cosider because many of the similar competing electric bicycles I see only go to 20 mph. Considering speed pedelecs can legally go up to ~28 mph, I feel that 25 is good for this particular style… more of a city commuter with relaxed geometry. The high-step Sport model would probably be stiffer and handle the speed better but the stand over height would be higher and the bike might be heavier. I was a little bummed to discover that the website weight was different than my own scale indicated by around five pounds. Perhaps they weighed it without the battery? Ultimately, for urban or neighborhood riders this could be a decent value and I love the color and frame choices. I’m open to feedback and input on this review and your own experiences with the bike! Big thanks to Espin for partnering with me for this review and making the trip to meet me with the demo bike.


  • I came into this review expecting a more relaxed ride given the 350 watt motor and 36 volt battery pack (what I would consider average) but came away impressed, it felt pretty zippy
  • Both brake levers are ebike specific, having motor inhibitors built in so you can kill power immediately when you need to stop, this is especially useful since the cadence sensor is more basic and slow to respond at times
  • The Espin Flow and Sport electric bikes come with reflective tires and have an integrated light which help keep you visible to cars and other cyclists, this is a great little upgrade (especially given the all-black frame color I had… they do offer all-white which might be safer)
  • For those who want to arrive at their destination a bit faster, the top speed is around 25 mph vs. the more standard 20 mph, technically this is a Class 3 speed pedelec
  • The cockpit area works well, it isn’t busy, the ergonomic grips look good and are locking for added strength, the handle bar sweeps back and the display is large and easy to read while still being easy to interact with using the left button pad
  • This step-thru “Flow” model is easy to mount and stand over, while it only comes in one size, the adjustable angle stem and quick release seat offer some customization for taller or shorter riders
  • I love that they upgraded to the Tektro brake levers that have rubberized edges and an integrated bell on the left, that can be useful in areas with more pedestrians walking around, it sounds friendly and won’t get bumped or broken as easily as the cheap after-market flick bells
  • I love the disc brake upgrade here but found the cables a little tight, they required more energy to pull and didn’t release as quickly as expected… this was a demo bike so maybe they just got really used and dirty or wet or something? Anyway, disc brake rotors tend to stay cleaner in wet or dirty riding conditions and Espin sells fenders and a bag of their own so you can really outfit the bike for utility and different environments if you want
  • Great job with the kickstand position, it’s mounted far enough back that it doesn’t interfere with pedaling even when the bike is parked (useful for doing maintenance yourself, like cleaning the chain) but isn’t at the very far back where it might crowd the disc brake mount
  • Even though this bike uses a more basic suspension fork (no lockout, preload or rebound adjust), it does improve ride quality and pairs nicely with the Selle Royal saddlw which has rubber bumpers
  • Pretty decent drivetrain here for a more affordable ebike, you get Shimano Altus with eight cogs in the rear, that’s going to help you hit and maintain higher speeds up to 25 mph without spinning like crazy
  • The chainring has a nice Aluminum alloy bash guard protecting the the teeth and keeping your pants or dress from snagging as easily, it’s not as complete as a full chain cover but it’s lighter, tougher and quieter


  • The step-thru version of this ebike suffers from a bit of frame flex, though it’s not as bad as some cruisers with rear-rack batteries… the cargo rack and rear-mounted hub motor at one end and suspension fork at the other produce a bit more strain on the middle where the battery cutout is
  • I was a little bummed to see that they weren’t able to get a bottle cage mounting point mid-frame, this can cost more and given the battery position I understand that it just didn’t work with a mroe affordable design (glad the rack is there, consider a trunk bag with a bottle holster like this)
  • My biggest complaint with the battery design on this ebike is that it does not allow you to charge while mounted on the frame… that means each time you need to fill it you’ll have to use the key and carefully take the pack off and carry it to an outlet, be careful with the battery (not to scratch or drop it)
  • The cadence sensor only offers five magnets vs. 6, 10 or 12 on some of the other products I’ve tested and reviewed, this means that the motor kicks in and cuts out less immediately, it’s not as responsive
  • The display is not removable, you can swivel it forward and back to reduce glare but it could be vulnerable at bike racks and in the weather if left outside frequently
  • The motor used here is a bit generic and has a power cable coming out the right side where the derailleur and shifter cables are, this makes for a bit of crowding and it’s more vulnerable than some of the newer hub motors (tucked in on the left side near the disc brake), try not to snag, bend or break this cable if the bike tips
  • If you need to lower the saddle all the way down (as someone with a shorter inseam, shorter leg length) it might collide with the rear rack or a bag placed there, keep this in mind when choosing accessories or considering suspension seat posts (as they raise the minimum saddle height)
  • At higher speeds I was noticing a bit of wobble at the front (speed wobble) so keep a firm grip or ride with lower levels of assist for safety, this could increase with a lot of rear weight


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Lin B
3 months ago

Jeff told me the mounts would be for the seperables units (at least at first) rather than all-in-one. They connect together for carrying, though. I actually prefer an all-in-one since the weight low over the front wheel on my folding bike is helpful, but I won't wait for that mount, I will probably stick the battery in a handlebar bag temporarily until that mount is available. I think he is focusing on the bottle cage style mounts initially and my bike just isn't suited to that. There are 2 cables attached to the side of the motor drive - one is the battery and I hope you are right that the 2d one is cadence sensor and not the throttle. The wireless throttle was a big design improvement, but I remember Jeff said it hadn't been certified by the manufacturer. If you look at the big "clothespin" clip on the handlebars it DOES look like there's a cable attached :-(.

Sure am hoping these materialize before summer ends - I just sold my car to a kid going off to college and he takes possession September 1st (after making his installment payments to me). Going car-free then, and the SR is a BIG part of my plan.

9 months ago

Sounds like we have had a similar experience! But I have an update....

Found out mytt 5 mile limitation was not due to battery. There is an internal temp sensor cut-off (or something of that nature), My ride to work is 9 miles of multi-use path. I can just leave the throttle wide open for miles on end. So around the 6th miles i thought the batterry was dying was really the wheel going into safe mode. I had been so tired that day that I just decided to push the bike home, then after about a half hour of walking the wheel came back to life and had over 50% charge still. Soooo I guess I need to give the wheel a break every mile or so to not overheat.... I don't know. I am going to contact geo orbital.

9 months ago

I've had my GeoOrbital for two months and put about 200 miles on it in that time. I agree with your review of the wheel but as I'm 6' and 160lbs my experience may be a bit different.
1) The battery mount does indeed allow for too much vibration and movement of the battery and is my biggest complaint. Considering the cost, necessity, and potential safety hazard of a damaged battery, a couple simple and inexpensive improvements, as in your suggestion of a foam layer, would prevent this vibration and provide a much more stable mount.
2) As far as I am able to determine, I am getting near 18-20 miles per charge. This is using assist and in slight hilly terrain, so who knows what actual is. I also regularly pull a trailer full of groceries which sucks power like crazy! I'm satisfied with the battery performance, but I'd agree it's probably not getting the distance GeoOrbital claims.
3) The weight of this wheel does indeed throw a bike wildly out of normal balance. Every time I pick my bike up I still find it shocking, and have to put the bike back down to adjust. In use, however, I hardly notice the added weight and it hasn't affected my steering or braking in any appreciable way. Free peddling, without any assist from the battery, is another story. For myself it is far to exhausting and impractical with this wheel. If I want to ride using only my own power the wheel needs to come off, period.
4) The throttle length is too short and the throw a bit too long, but were easily solved by my attaching a small clothespin style clamp to the throttle adding a necessary inch of length. I use my palm/thumb to adjust speed and am still able to keep hold of the handlebar and apply the brake at the same time.
5) I have no idea if regenerative braking works either, but the resistance the wheel adds when not powered is significant. Hats off to you for being able to free-peddle 5 miles on this thing, no way I'd be able to.
6) The power provided by the battery could be greater, but is adequate for my needs. in fact, It provides enough power that I'm able to pull a grocery-filled trailer, total combined weight of 300lbs, back from the grocery store with little assistance from myself, a distance of six miles and over 100 ' of elevation change. Coming from a stop with this much weight requires assistance from me, but once I get moving the wheel alone can accelerate to and maintain a speed well beyond my comfort zone!

Overall, I love the GeoOrbital and I don't regret its purchase. The cost is high, no doubt. I was able to get a $100 discount simply by emailing GeoOrbital, but still the cost was significant compared to other options. Why I chose to pay the premium cost was the ease of installation, the ability to quickly revert back and forth with hardly any effort, and remove and carry it with me while shopping, etc. so I don't have to worry about losing it to thieves.

10 months ago

Full Disclosure: I sell ebikes online and would love to have you as a customer.

That being said, there are a number of ebikes that meet your criteria and are worth considering. Here are a few I think might meet your needs, all from very reputable ebike manufacturers.

Please let me know if you have any questions. I would love to help.


Ann M.
1 year ago

No ebike is perfect, this is a thread dedicated to sharing known issues or problems with electric bikes from Espin as well as any help and solutions you know of. Sometimes that means a DIY fix and other times it can mean a recall, software update or part replacement by a dealer.

Please be respectful and constructive with feedback, this is not a space for hate speech. In many cases, representatives from the company will see feedback and use it to improve their product. In the end, the goal is to enjoy riding and help each other go further and be safer.

1 year ago

Most ace hardware stores have substantial nut and bolt selections. Trying Different head sizes and styles will allow you find the best fit for that loop.
You can blame the screw for loosening itself this time, but next time you'll have to share responsibility for not checking bolts for tightness once in awhile. Prolly won't be a next time though, I'll bet that did make some racket bouncing off spokes. A supercharged version of the playing card clothespinned to intentionally makes some noise!

3 years ago

I don't think mine sounds like that - having said that, the road noise from my tires is quite loud so perhaps I couldn't hear it if it was making that sound anyway.

3 years ago


I got a nagging suspicion that my motor noise isnt normal. So I googled it and got a bunch of hit and videos showing clicking and grinding motors but none showing what a normal motor sounds like.

I got no idea if this is normal, so hopefully someone here knows. My motor makes a clicking sound, much like the sound you get when the back wheel freespins, except its a little louder and it comes from the motor.

The sound is present when I peddle and also when throttling, but it stops when I'm doing the motor isnt running.

I might be just under the influence of all the google hits, perhaps this is how the motors are meant to sound.



Chris Nolte
4 years ago

NYC is often referenced when speaking of ebike law, but it seems like we are finally making some headway. A recent resolution has been presented at City Council and it seems to be making it way up to Albany.

Story quoted below:

6 days ago

I agree... even with an ebike, jumping from "no biking" to "20 mile days" is a huge leap all at once.
Ease up to it -- and stopping every so often for a water break or just a few steps around a bit, and a stretch - great idea.
I've taken to breaking up my leisure rides this way (even though I'm now 900 miles in on the new bike)... just more comfortable all around.
I also add stretches before getting on the bike at the start -- pulling my ankle up to my rear (one at a time, standing on the other foot) for ~30 seconds, and bent-straight-over toe touches (well, nearly touching) with legs locked.
I did switch up saddles -- but I think the padded bike shorts were the single biggest improvement in my gear!
I would also add -- I like the product called Body. It is a solid-stick (like a deodorant stick) that you rub on those areas most likely to chafe, before getting dressed. I think it made a huge difference in comfort, as I gradually "toughened up" my saddle-side ;)

6 days ago

I think I'm now convinced that all new(er) riders and new in the season riders and out of shape riders really need to get off their bikes every 5 mi (or 20 min) and walk around, stretch out their hamstrings and get the blood flowing. I include myself in this list . No matter how great a seat, an un-toughened tush is going to feel it. Muscles will feel it. Someone 40+ is going to feel it more than someone 20 yrs old. And the first few rides on a new bike, especially if someone hasn't ridden in awhile is best kept at 10 mi or less. Better to be in the saddle every day for 5 mi, building up slowly, than do a 20 or 30 mi ride and then be limping around for the next 2 days (IMO).

1 week ago

If you know someone who could provide a variable power supplier, you could simulate a battery to test components too. Set the Amps and Volts like the battery would provide, turn everything On, and with a multi-meter start touching + and - in the ends of each wire to each piece. Inspect the wires as well. I can't tell you how many times I've fixed something major by finding a smashed or burnt wire that engaged other safety measures and shut down big operations, lol... Start simple like power source and follow the wires to see how far the current goes before stopping. Where it stops, is where the problem lies... Making sense? Electricity is a river, starting at the battery+, find the dam (short or disconnect) that stops it from flowing through every component, and back to the negative- wire at the battery.

1 week ago

Watts is Watts (sic) and Pigs is Pigs ( great, classic short story since 1905).

Tora is correct. Higher voltage batteries are legally considered an electrocution hazard. You can get as much POWER and SPEED from a 6V battery, for instance if the associated hub motor were wound with a relatively few turns of very heavy gauge wire! It would have to become a very large hub motor, indeed, if wound for 6V potential.

The speed of a motor is determined in part by its ampere-turns. If we use heavy guage wire and build a very bulky, ugly-huge geared hub motor: absolutely! We could go whatever high speed we wish to wind for, IF we are willing to carry a pack made of many more cells connected in parallel to provide the very high current that a low voltage winding inherently requires.

Volts times Amps equals Watts. To make a very strong, low voltage motor requires very heavy, bulky windings of relatively few turns. Your car's starter motor running from a 12V battery is a prime example.

It is much more practical to make a strong motor compact by employing high turns and the then-requisite high voltage to shove the requisite ampere-turns current through the electrical circuit and thus create the strong magnetic field required.

Remember: one Ampere of current through a single turn of wire around a stator equals one Ampere turn. It is no different at root than water pressure in the water supply pipe, and your doing something with that water pressure (potential power) by putting it to work, operating a mechanical sprinkler or a water motor:

One Watt is one Ampere of current though a resistance or impedance of one Ohm. And Pigs is Pigs. Remember these maxims, lol!
To make a motor physically small and output large powers relative to its size requires either: low turns and high current (heavy wire will be needed!) or high turns and low current (HIGH voltage needed!) or a lot more water pressure than this speed demon of an example is getting,

Every electrical motor, linear or rotary, develops a voltage countermanding force resisting its otherwise unlimited (absent external load) rotation (or linear movement). Motors unloaded would self destruct by unlimited overspeeding if not for "counter EMF."

This counter EMF is inescapable, and fortunately a good trait, as well!

An input voltage guarantees a rotational torque.

And if you want to go faster, well, increase the voltage. The voltage increases the current. It is like water pressure enables the flow of water.

Increase of Voltage (pressure) will force more current (Amps) through a given motor winding, if called for by the load, and produce, at any rate, an increase in torque or twisting force at the motor shaft. This is why, for this example, the synonym term for Voltage is Potential. The potential for power to be developed when flow or current (Amps) is permitted by the motor circuit.

1 week ago

I just came across this article about care and maintenance of Bosch batteries:

It explained a number of things I did not know about the Bosch batteries. Specifically interesting to me were the sections on what constitutes a charge cycle, charging with inverters, the effects of temperature, and battery conditioning.

However, the article is a few years old and now we know the advice to always "top off" your bike battery after a ride is not actually the best practice. For more information on that, see this post in the EBR forums:

Myself, I have adopted the practice of using an inexpensive timer to charge the battery into the 70-80% region. It hasn't taken long to get good at guessing how much charging I need to reach that level. If I have a long ride planned I put the charger on again a couple of hours prior to the ride to fully charge it.

By the way, I inquired of Grin technolgies regarding a Bosch adapter for their Satiator charger, and received the following reply:

Bosch makes their own proprietary plug which we would have to license from them. So the short answer is no we would not be carrying their plug.

You could cut the charger wire from your current Bosch charger and splice it into one of our But you have to hack the signal lines to allow for charging current to flow (we tested this ourselves) and even then, the maximum current it allows is 5A.

This sounds like an interesting science project to me, but I'll be waiting for my battery to be out of warranty before I attempt it!

Bruce Arnold
1 week ago

Volts are a measure of the current's potential to do work. Amperes are a measure of the amount of current flowing. Watts are a measure of the work that has been done. 13.4 amp-hours means that you could draw a current of 13.4 amps for one hour, one amp for 13.4 hours,

Think of a garden hose. Amperage is the amount of water actually flowing through the hose. The water pressure would be voltage. Watts would be the work you could do with the water, like hosing mud off your car.

Amp-hours times volts equals watt-hours.

Ken M
2 weeks ago

Oops...I forgot to comment on the suggestion of the Velomobiles. They are effective and efficient but in most cities they require a car parking spot and most likely registration and insurance. That in my book just hammers much of their potential. As soon as DMV and insurance companies get involved the cost advantage of effective transportation is certain to be diminished. DMVers are certain to concerned about cash flow into their early pensions and insurance executives will still want their big bonuses for doing nothing of value for society.

2 weeks ago

Curious what bike you ended up choosing? I am considering the Urban Plus or Magnum Metro (or CCS but obvy have to wait). Thanks!

2 weeks ago

On the full helmet I have now has three vents. I did remove the clear visor for better air flow. This helmet also has a drop down sun visor. For eye glasses I have

2 weeks ago

Ok - it’s working this morning. The controller temp is showing as 17 degrees. (Warmer day in NorCal).

Yesterday it didn’t work until the controller temp showed about 14.7 or so.

Before that, the controller temp showed literally “0.”

I *think* that the controller temp sensor was/is speced for warmer operating environments and literally cannot show temps below 14.5.

At the core, temp sensors are mechanical devices, since they have to turn an analog thing (actual analog temperature) into a digital thing (numerical temperature). Kind of like how microphones work.

I’m just guessing here, but I think the temp sensor here is likely something that’s speced for a common use (like a computer or a vape or a mass flow air temp sensor or a cell phone).

All of those things use temp sensors.

The issue here is that the display doesn’t like to see “0” coming from the temp sensor when the temp sensor is below its speced operating range.

So it throws Error 30.

Three ways for Juiced to fix:

1) Spec a different temp sensor

2) Program the controller to trick the trmp sensor into reading “something” if it’s below operating temp.

3) Change the display to be “ok” with a temp of “0”

This is all highly speculative and is based on me trouble shooting cars and computers and not ebikes, lol.

Juiced can easily test if my theory is correct by putting a controller in a freezer for a few minutes and then hooking it up to a test rig.

2 weeks ago

Thanks for the flowers!

Years ago, I was travelling at Norway, an leaflet came across my way: "Garmin fish finder" I was familiar with the hiking GPS from Garmin, bot no clue what a fish finder could be. After reading the instruction, it was clear. Still no affinity to fishing, but I hope you enjoy your trip.

Regarding the stem and handlebar of the ST5:

Being honest - and I know, this will be disappointing - I don't believe that any could be done. I'll come up soon with a short story to explain why.

3 weeks ago

Mr Coffee - you may want to add another key inventory variable to your theoretical question - "days to turn" or what car dealers term "days on lot". What if the $4K bike on average takes 210 days to sell while the $1.5K bike takes 45 days? Inventory expenses can add up quickly and for most LBSs, I would guess that cash flow is important.

I suspect the answer to your question is that the best bike is the one offering the best overall value that the LBS owner is confident will sell quickly. It's like the Costco model. They have an incredible product selection organization that researches the sweet spot for any given product category, then purchases in sufficient quantity to drive their cost down (with perhaps an exclusive benefit they can pass along) and then prices it aggressively so that the inventory moves quickly thru their inventory. I'm not suggesting that your typical LBS could, or should, stock ebikes in quantity, but they need to find the sweet spot for ebikes in their particular market that they believe offer excellent value which they can turnover relatively quickly.

1 year ago


David Macdonald
1 year ago

I would only say with cadence sensors you should be in the right gear to move on from standstill; and so can't really attributes that to the bike as some kind of fault after all you should be in the right gear you wouldn't start your car in fifth or 6th Gear and then complain that it didn't move off very well .

Richard Burnett
1 year ago

David Macdonald he did address that in the video.

Na S
1 year ago

heeey was this near quail hill park?

lock Hughes
1 year ago

Paid extra. Mine goes to 7. ;)
1 year ago

Wait, wut?!

Jasper Rowan
1 year ago

guess I'm 5th :)
1 year ago

Nailed it, a solid 5th place... five days in a week, five fingers per hand

1 year ago

Very nice nipples.

cristofor pelic
8 months ago

Why is everybody just saying Rob02150

9 months ago


1 year ago


Mike Salamone
1 year ago


Monday Motorbikes
1 year ago


Seb K
1 year ago

First !!!

Kelly S
1 year ago

Sarcasm? Or are you seriously going to stop making videos?
1 year ago

That really sucks because this is literally the last video I will ever publish so that was your last chance to be first ever Jordan. At least Seb apologized, I love happy endings :)

Seb K
1 year ago

Srry man .

Jordan Smith
1 year ago

Nah..... The moments ruined now...

Seb K
1 year ago

Don't be so butthurt you can still say it ;) !!!