Magnum Peak Review

Magnum Peak Electric Bike Review
Magnum Peak
Magnum Peak 160 Mm Rear Hydraulic Disc Brake
Magnum Peak Shimano Acera Derailleur 24 Speed Drivetrain
Magnum Peak Handlebar Grips Lcd Button Control Pad
Magnum Peak Tektro Auriga Levers Velo Locking Grips
Magnum Peak Adjustable Suspension Fork Preload
Magnum Peak Sr Suntour Xcm Hlo Suspension 100 Mm
Magnum Peak Exposed Sealed Controller Hit Sink Fins
Magnum Peak Adjustable Kickstand Custom Frame
Magnum Peak Electric Mountain Bike
Magnum Peak Portable Charger 2 Amp
Magnum Peak Electric Bike Review
Magnum Peak
Magnum Peak 160 Mm Rear Hydraulic Disc Brake
Magnum Peak Shimano Acera Derailleur 24 Speed Drivetrain
Magnum Peak Handlebar Grips Lcd Button Control Pad
Magnum Peak Tektro Auriga Levers Velo Locking Grips
Magnum Peak Adjustable Suspension Fork Preload
Magnum Peak Sr Suntour Xcm Hlo Suspension 100 Mm
Magnum Peak Exposed Sealed Controller Hit Sink Fins
Magnum Peak Adjustable Kickstand Custom Frame
Magnum Peak Electric Mountain Bike
Magnum Peak Portable Charger 2 Amp

Summary

  • A high speed electric hardtail with with throttle on demand, hydraulic disc brakes and an extra large battery for $2k, all around good value with a 24 speed drivetrain
  • Optional rear rack for $50 transform the Peak into a sporty commuter, only one frame size and color scheme but the angled top tube makes it approachable, great saddle and pedal upgrades
  • Zippy 500 watt motor paired with a 48 volt battery and 9 Mosfet controller pushing 18 Amps, the controller is overbuilt and mounted separately for better heat dispersion
  • No bottle cage bosses, motor cable protrudes near rear derailleur but a metal guard helps protect it, quick cadence sensor, fixed display panel could be more vulnerable, lots of wires up front

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Video Review

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Introduction

Make:

Magnum

Model:

Peak

Price:

$1,999

Body Position:

Forward

Suggested Use:

Urban, Trail, Mountain

Electric Bike Class:

Speed Pedalec (Class 3)
Learn more about Ebike classes

Warranty:

1 Year Comprehensive

Availability:

United States, Canada

Model Year:

2017

Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

55.1 lbs (24.99 kg)

Battery Weight:

9 lbs (4.08 kg)

Motor Weight:

8.5 lbs (3.85 kg)

Frame Material:

6061 Aluminum Alloy

Frame Sizes:

19 in (48.26 cm)

Geometry Measurements:

19" Seat Tube, 22.5" Reach, 28.5" Stand Over Height, 72" Length

Frame Types:

High-Step

Frame Colors:

Matte Black with Blue Accents

Frame Fork Details:

SR Suntour XCM HLO Suspension with 100 mm Travel, Hydraulic Lockout, 9 mm QR Skewer

Frame Rear Details:

10 mm Axle with Nuts

Attachment Points:

Rear Rack Bosses, Fender Bosses

Gearing Details:

24 Speed 3x8 Shimano Altus Front M310, Shimano Acera M360 Rear, 11-32T

Shifter Details:

Shimano Triggers on Left and Right Bar

Cranks:

Shimano 170 mm Length, 28-33-42T

Pedals:

Wellgo B087, Aluminum Alloy Platform

Headset:

Neco 1 1/8" - 1 1/2" Tapered

Stem:

Promax, 110 mm Length, Aluminum Alloy

Handlebar:

Flat, 25" Length, Aluminum Alloy

Brake Details:

Tektro Auriga Hydraulic Disc with 180 mm Front Rotor and 160 mm Rear Rotor, Tektro Levers with Motor Inhibitor

Grips:

Velo Flat Rubber with Lockers

Saddle:

Selle Royal Gel (Magnum Branded)

Seat Post:

Promax

Seat Post Length:

400 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

30.9 mm

Rims:

Double Walled

Spokes:

13G Stainless Steel

Tire Brand:

Schwalbe Smart Sam, 27.5" x 2.25

Wheel Sizes:

27.5 in (69.85cm)

Tire Details:

26-54 PSI

Tube Details:

Schrader Valve

Accessories:

Optional Metal Carry Rack ($49) with 25 kg Max Weight, Single Side Adjustable Length Kickstand, Integrated 5 Volt USB Charging Port, Metal Derailleur Guard

Other:

Locking Removable Battery Pack, 9 Mosfet 18 Amp Current Controller

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:

Das-Kit

Motor Type:

Rear-Mounted Geared Hub
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

500 watts

Motor Peak Output:

700 watts

Motor Torque:

90 Newton meters

Battery Brand:

Samsung, Panasonic or LG

Battery Voltage:

48 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

13 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

624 wh

Battery Chemistry:

Lithium Nickel Cobalt Manganese (Li-NCM)

Charge Time:

6.5 hours

Estimated Min Range:

30 miles (48 km)

Estimated Max Range:

60 miles (97 km)

Display Type:

Das-Kit Fixed Backlit Monochrome LCD

Readouts:

Power Level (Power, Normal, Eco), Pedal Assist (0-6), Odometer, Time, Trip 1, Trip 2, Speed, Voltage, Battery Level (1-5), (Press Power Once for Backlighting, Hold Set for Menu)

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pad (Power, Set, +, -)

Drive Mode:

Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist, Trigger Throttle

Top Speed:

28 mph (45 kph) (20 mph Throttle Only)

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Written Review

The Magnum Peak is a faster, more powerful version of the Mi5 electric trail bike (which is still available for $1,700). The Peak offers the same great looks at a still reasonable $2,000 price point but climbs better and can reach 28 mph top speed vs. the more standard 22 mph with the Ui5. Both of these e-bikes only come in one frame size and color scheme but they worked well for me, I think they look cool and the black hides the battery, hub motor and wires well. As a relatively lightweight 135 lb average height 5’9″ guy, the Mi5 is enough for zippy commuting and some mild packed trail riding but I wouldn’t actually mountain bike with it… I often go from pavement to dirt, taking new routes around town, and appreciate an ebike that’s capable on a variety of surfaces, but I also like actual climbing and trail riding. What the Peak delivers is that same versatility in town and a better experience in actual mountain conditions. Not perfect, but better. Most hard-core electric mountain bikes these days are built around premium mid-drive motor systems from Shimano, Yamaha, Bosch or Brose. They are much more efficient, better balanced (especially on full suspension frames) and more capable than hub motors for climbing because you can shift gears to enable them. The best drive systems even offer shift sensing technology because the forces being spread through the chain, cogs and derailleur are enough to cause real damage, real fast. And so, with the Magnum Peak, you get something a little different. A truly powerful motor that doesn’t care what gear you’re in, won’t strain your drivetrain and can be operated with throttle on demand whereas most mid-drives cannot. I had a blast riding it in the hills overlooking Salt Lake City Utah with the Magnum team. Amazingly, it maintained traction in the snow while climbing and was able to zip me along while filming with one hand over rocks and medium sized hills. It’s not a perfect product, the kickstand and battery plug are vulnerable to crank arm collision, it weighs a bit more than competing products due to a higher battery capacity and the motor power cable protrudes, but for the price it’s quite good.

Driving the bike is a 500 watt nominal internally geared rear hub motor from Das-Kit. I’m not as used to seeing this brand but felt that it performed at or above expectations. Normally hub motors struggle with hills but the combination of a higher amp controller, higher voltage battery and the additional copper windings and design of the motor excelled. I still pedaled along to help but once there was momentum, overriding with the throttle gave me more power and speed. Note that the trigger throttle only goes up to 20 mph while pedal assist can get you in the 28 mph range. The motor is painted black which helps it blend in with the frame. It’s compact and even though the power cable protrudes from the right side, getting jumbled with the derailleur and shifter cables, I like that it was somewhat protected by a metal guard. This is not something you’d see on premium e-mountain bikes but I think it makes sense and would rather the added weight and novice appearance than a bent or frayed cable. The rear wheel does not offer quick release but uses thicker 13 gauge spokes to accommodate the added forces and weight of the bike. I love that one area Magnum has opted to spend more on is with the tires. You get 27.5″ Schwalbe branded tires with excellent traction. They are truly off-road worthy and helped a lot in the snow. One area I feel they missed was the right chainstay which is naked, you’ll end up with nicks and chips very quickly riding off road. I saw a brand new Magnum Peak go from pristine to many chips with the single ride shown in the video review above. Consider adding one yourself or using some clear plastic packing tape.

Powering the motor is an extra large 48 volt 13 amp hour battery pack that resembles the one used for the Mi5, just a little taller. It protrudes from the downtube a bit but is otherwise kept low and centered on the frame. I love that the charging port and USB accessory port are now positioned on the side of the pack vs. on top because they were difficult to reach on older models (located near the seat tube and fairly cramped). I would definitely take the battery off when lifting the frame, and possibly the front wheel since it’s quick release, but love that it can be charged on if you’d like. Just keep an eye on the plug because it’s still very near the left crank arm which could collide and bend it. The plug isn’t magnetic or anything so don’t drip on it or the bike might come crashing down. Also, when you’re done charging, pay extra attention to the rubber battery plug cap as it isn’t super easy to close but could be worth tinkering with if you’re riding in snow like I was. Thankfully, the extra large kickstand is sturdy and positioned near the center of the bike to spread out weight. This is a love/hate design for me because the stand also collides with the left crank arm. People who spend a lot of time trail riding usually remove the kickstand altogether but I love how convenient they can be. If you do take it off, lay the bike on the left side and be careful with the disc brake rotors. They’re less sensitive than the derailleur and power cable mentioned before but can still get bent or dirty which can wreck the pads. the brakes themselves are very nice, hydraulic disc with motor inhibiting levers (four finger style). The front is a 180 mm rotor and the rear is 160 mm which is about right for this type of bike.

Operating the Magnum Peak is a snap. The battery clicks in and automatically locks if you don’t have the key handy. From here, a single press on the power button at the control pad (near the left grip) gets you going and a second quick press after that activates backlighting. I love that it doesn’t use automatic backlighting because that can be distracting for some riders. There’s a Set button just below and to the left of the Power button that cycles through different trip readouts and just above and below are plus and minus buttons. These allow you to cycle from 0 to 6 assist level and the menu loops. In some ways this is cool but can take a moment to get used to. I often press +, +, +, +… frantically to get to maximum power without looking but with the Magnum Peak, that could get me back down to zero or just confused. On the flip side, pressing – just once can go from no power to maximum power! In any of these levels, including zero, the slim trigger throttle is active and blasts full power. It’s a more advanced setup but one I enjoy. The trigger throttle itself is a custom design from Magnum that allows the right grip area to stay clean. The cockpit on this bike has a lot going on with two sets of shifters to control 24 gear combinations (three rings up front and eight in the back) along with the display, independent button pad, brake levers with motor inhibitors and that throttle… but it manages to feel clean. The only messy part is all of the cables protruding at the front. Again, they are black and blend in but one downside to the frame setup is that many of the cables aren’t internally routed. Instead, they are run along the top tube. It makes them easier to service but could get in the way when loading the bike on a rack or just lifting it. I don’t want to glaze over the point about brake lever motor inhibitors however, as this is a cadence sensing pedal assist ebike. They tend to be slightly less responsive than torque or advanced sensor activated but I found the hardware on the Peak to work well and be more compact and protected than some others. The only other grip is that the display looks so nice but isn’t removable. You can angle it to reduce glare and possibly put a sack or glove over it when parked to avoid scratching but it could be vulnerable in the event of a crash where the bike gets tossed. Note also that the display offers three power modes in addition to the six assist levels. These help you tone down torque and save the battery… Whenever you’re opening the throttle from standstill, climbing steep hills or riding over 20 mph you can expect the battery to drain much faster. Since the Peak encourages all of these scenarios, there’s a wide range of possible ranges per charge you might expect. And since the charger is a more average 2 Amp, it could take upwards of 6 hours for a full refill.

I love that Magnum is bringing more electric bikes to the US and growing their dealer network. It’s a company that is pushing the limits of value by offering a solid one year warranty and a range of accessories (including a cool sturdy rack for $50 that works with the Peak). I’d certainly be tempted to go for this version of their mountain bike because I like to go fast, but I still wouldn’t discount the Mi5 which is several pounds lighter and several hundred dollars less expensive. For heavier riders, those that might be facing steeper hills and people who can appreciate the little refinements being made (some of which also apply to the Mi5) this is a winning electric bike if it fits you. I was impressed with the frame stiffness and overall handling, loved the suspension fork and am even more excited about the 100 mm upgraded fork shipping on the production version. You could lock the fork out for efficient city commuting and possibly get a shorter angled stem and riser bars for improved comfort. Furthermore, a seat post suspension is something I frequently recommend when riding faster and for longer periods. The Peak has a thicker seat tube, designed for 30.9 mm posts. It would work well with a shim and a Thudbuster, Body Float or even a more generic post if you’re on a budget. Big thanks to Spenser for his mountain ride demonstrations and to Magnum for partnering with me on this post and making the trip to their headquarters in Salt Lake City possible :)

Pros:

  • The Peak offers throttle-only mode, allows you to override assist with the throttle up to 20 mph and can hit 28 mph in pedal assist… it’s one of the most open, fastest electric mountain bikes I’ve tested
  • You get 24 gear combinations here which is unique in the world of value electric mountain bikes, this also means more potential maintenance and weight but when you need to climb or hit the 28 mph top assisted speed I feel it’s worth it
  • Name brand Schwalbe tires and mid-level SR Suntour suspension fork with lockout and preload adjustment improve ride quality and won’t take damage as easily as super cheap options
  • I like that they ship the bike with a derailleur guard to protect the main derailleur, I’d probably leave it on in case the bike tips because that’s also where the power cable enters into the hub motor
  • While the Peak only comes in one frame size and color, I feel that the design is great because the top tube angles for lowered standover height, the head tube is tapered for improved strength and the black color helps wires and the battery blend in
  • The battery has a charging port on the lower left side vs. on top which is much easier to get to (of course it can also be charged off the bike if you want) and I like that there is a female USB port near the top (close to the bars for easy use), you can use the USB off the bike as a backup power source if desired, consider a right angle adapter for charging while riding
  • Hydraulic disc brakes with motor inhibitors in both levers keep you in control of the bike and are especially important for high-speed operation, you get a larger 180 mm rotor up front for improved braking power and the brake levers offer adjustable reach for people with different hand sizes
  • Even though it’s not removable, I like how compact the display is and appreciate that you can swivel it to reduce glare, there are lots of options built in, the button pad used to operate it is mounted close to the left grip where it’s very easy to reach and use on the fly, overall the cockpit didn’t feel super crowded even with the extra wires and two trigger shifter units
  • Minor pluses here but I love that the saddle and pedals are upgraded, less reason to have to replace them for improved comfort and traction respectively, they worked great for me even in the snow when my feet were wet and the trail was bumpy
  • Quick release front wheel and removable battery reduces weight significantly (by over 10 pounds) making the bike easier to toss into the trunk of a car or lift onto a storage hook in a garage
  • Magnum has a specially designed trigger throttle that is super slim so it doesn’t crowd the brake or shifter mounts and can be easier to reach, the cadence sensor is also slimmer, smaller and better protected by a plastic shell
  • The battery capacity is quite impressive, you get 48 volts and 13 amp hours which I would call way above average and the cells are premium brands (LG, Samsung or Panasonic) with a one-year warranty
  • In my opinion the price point of this bike is amazing, it really feels like a good value at $2k given all of the options and dealer network they’ve built (over 70 shops in the US carrying it at the time of this post)
  • The bike ships with a rigid 30.9 mm seat post which works fine and is a little thicker for added strength… this is one are you could potentially upgrade with a seat post suspension like Thudbuster or Body Float, you might just need a shim in some cases for the perfect fit

Cons:

  • Surprisingly, I didn’t see a slap guard on the right chain stay, this means you’ll get chips in the paint over time and possibly some wear on the chain itself, consider adding one yourself aftermarket like these
  • I’m accustomed to seeing internally routed cables, integrated batteries and compact motors as with the Peak here but the controller box stood out as being unique and potentially vulnerable… I asked about it (positioned in front of the bottom bracket) and was told it had to be overbuilt to dissipate heat due to the higher amp output and tapped it to be sure it was Aluminum and sturdy
  • Due to the hub motor design, there isn’t a quick release at the rear which means you’ll need extra tools for flat-fixing on the go, the power cable also protrudes a bit and could get snagged or bent easier than if it was fully tucked in
  • The kickstand is large, adjustable and sturdy but I wish it was mounted slightly back so the left crank arm wouldn’t collide, the demo bike had some nicks already, this is also a concern with the charging port as the pedal could snag it or bend the plug
  • No bottle cage bosses here, I suppose they wouldn’t fit on the downtube due to the larger battery case, thankfully there’s a special rack mounting setup so you could bring a trunk bag or panniers with extra gear… I could see this becoming a fun commuter platform during the week (I believe their rack is proprietary)
  • While I think they did a good job keeping the weight of the bike reasonable considering the larger battery pack and motor, this is about four pounds heavier than most other hardtail electric mountain bikes
  • One area for possible improvement would be a thru-axle on the fork for added stiffness and sturdiness given the off-road nature and higher speed capability of the bike, as it stands you get a regular 9 mm quick release skewer
  • Many of the wires are run along the base of the top tube vs. being internally routed, this combined with the angled nature of the top tube could make hanging style racks difficult to work with (snagging cables or just not fitting without first removing the battery pack)
  • If you’re commuting, especially at high speed, add some reflective stickers or lights because the matte black frame and lack of integrated lights combined with higher speed riding could make you vulnerable
  • The charger is compact and light weight at ~1.5 lbs but it’s not super fast with just 2 Amps output and that could mean longer waits given the larger capacity of the battery on the Magnum Peak

Resources:

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Billy
10 months ago

It seems ebike makers just can’t make a perfect bike. I’ll never buy one until Court reviews one without the all cons and at a sensible price.

Reply
Court Rye
10 months ago

Hey Billy! I don’t think I’ll ever skip a con or two… my goal is to be objective but share my own considerations which include “trade offs” and such. Magnum has done a great job here but it’s not perfect. If you’re willing to compromise on the areas covered then it could work :)

Reply
Dana B
10 months ago

Just wondering why this bike isn’t showing up on the Magnum website yet??

Reply
Court Rye
10 months ago

Hey Dana, I believe it’s coming very soon. Maybe you could ask your local shop when they expect to get them in or possibly call Magnum directly for more info :)

Reply
Nicolas
9 months ago

I think this Magnum hits many positive points and overall more so than the few cons it might generate. I’m thinking especially taking into consideration the price, which other makers don’t match as well. This is a solid e-bike for its price. I’m looking forward to a test ride :)

Reply
Court Rye
9 months ago

Yeah, it brings the speed and power with a cool look for a very reasonable price… and has a throttle, that’s neat :D

Reply
Phil
9 months ago

I ordered mine the first day it was on the web site (Feb 28). I can’t wait to get it. I talked to Spencer at Magnum on the phone. He said the bike should ship mid-April.

Reply
Court Rye
9 months ago

That’s awesome Phil! I’m excited for you, please share updates once you get it and try it out for a while. I enjoyed meeting with the folks at Magnum and feel that they struck a good balance of performance and price with the Peak ;)

Reply
Mike
7 months ago

dang – this or the XL Cross Current in RED w/10.4 a/hr batt for $1589 shipped (refurb thru JUICEDBIKES)????????

Reply
Court Rye
7 months ago

Hi Mike, unfortunately I have heard from several shops that their Juiced Bikes have had some technical issues… one shop said 40% of their bikes have required work but that the Magnum Ui5 (which has been sold to many delivery cyclists) has not had issues. The Peak is too new to say one way or the other about long term reliability but so far Magnum has a good track record and solid customer support in my experience.

Reply
Geoff
6 months ago

Ordered it right after your review – received it May 30. Dollar for Dollar, a fantastic value. Smooth, fast, attractive and practical. I challenge anyone to find anything close to the Magnum peak for even $1000 more then the Magnum price. Standard with 24 speeds, 48v battery, 700w peak output, 90 NM of torque, hydraulic disc brakes – all for $1,999.

Reply
Court Rye
6 months ago

Glad to hear you’re loving the bike Geoff! I heard they are temporarily sold out, looks like Magnum is doing a great job delivering what people want for a good price. Thanks for sharing your experience with the Peak :)

Reply
Geoffrey Bloom
4 months ago

Court,

Can you reccommend an upgrade to replace the shimano set up that comes with the magnum? Maybe a SRAM ? DO you know of any high quality precision gear shifting system that is compatible with the rear hub drive on the magnum?

Geoffrey

Sandor
4 months ago

After watching the review I did not understand if the motor provided enough power to climb the hill because the guy was paddling as I do on my non electric bike when he as going yup the hill. Can you share your experience because what I want is to avoid heavy sweating.

Reply
Court Rye
4 months ago

Hi Sandor! The Peak will climb moderate hills with throttle only as long as you have some speed going in and don’t weigh above ~170 lbs or have a lot of cargo, otherwise you might need to help just a little bit. You can see the same drive system being tested on some hills and through grass in the Magnum Metro review here. I hope this helps, you’re still getting excellent support, but if you try to start from zero, it’s probably going to stall.

PHIL
6 months ago

I received my Peak 2 days ago. It absolutely rocks! The power response and handling are excellent. I totally recommend this bike to anyone. I plan to put a bunch of miles on this thing this summer. I will update on long term when time permits.

Reply
Court Rye
6 months ago

Awesome! Thanks for the quick update PHIL, I’m excited to see your update, have an awesome summer :D

Reply
mike harris
6 months ago

I’m a 70 yr.old rider, looking to commute and only minimal off road bike paths. Would a lighter model suit me, or should I not be concerned about weight of the bike?
Thanks

Reply
Court Rye
6 months ago

Hi Mike! It’s difficult for me to say without knowing how big and strong you are… yes, this is a slightly heavier ebike, but you get additional power, the throttle operation, and a lower price point. The Magnum Peak has been a very popular ebike this year and I enjoyed testing it. I feel like the company is offering good support and value. I hope this helps you! I’m 5’9″ and weigh 135 but am fit-muscular and this model didn’t feel too heavy for me. Lifting it to load into a car or up stairs could be difficult, but at least then the battery and front wheel are removable.

Reply
jjsva
5 months ago

Great review. I would add a nice adjustable angle stem and moderate swept back bars for city commuting.

Reply
Court Rye
5 months ago

Good call, I think those would both be good additions for a commute setup. I might go for a rigid stem… but one that has a higher angle or is shorter vs. the adjustable type because they can rattle loose over time. Some are great, but the cheaper single-bolt designs don’t last as long in my experience.

Reply
Chris Wyatt
3 months ago

How is it possible to get this bike shipped to Australia?

Reply
Court Rye
3 months ago

Hi Chris! No clue… maybe reach out to Magnum directly through their website here.

Reply
Dave
3 months ago

Hi Court,

Any idea on the USB charging Amps for your phone or GPS? I know 1 amp is usually just enough to keep the battery where it is and 2 Amps will actually make progress. Thanks!
I tested the bike at ELV motors in Santa Clara CA and it’s a nice solid bike!

Reply
Court Rye
3 months ago

Hi Dave, I have heard that many USB ports put out 5 Volts but am not sure on the Amps. I can ask Magnum about this the next time that I see them or maybe they will respond if you reach out directly using their contact form. If you do find out, I’d love to hear back on what they say!

Reply

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Mark Peralta
2 hours ago

1. Looking further at the hub drive efficiency
https://endless-sphere.com/w/index.php/EBike_Efficiency
2. Exploring for more ways to increase the motor efficiency
3.The pros and cons of positioning the motor at the crank.

A hub motor's efficiency loss at lower speed can be minimized by reducing the limit current from 50A to 30A. The start up torque and and power at low speed is slightly decreased but the peak power is still retained and most especially, the efficiency at lower speed is slightly increased (yellow green curve).

However, if the limit current is further decreased (for the sake of more efficiency), there won't be enough torque that is needed for the motor to start from a dead stop, or to climb hills.

If we really want to prioritize efficiency even if it means sacrificing torque and power output, then it won't be appropriate anymore as the original hub drive. However, it can still work in 2 ways. First is by the use geared hub and increase the gear ratio high enough for adequate start up torque and torque for the hills while sacrificing top speed. The second method is by relocation of the motor to the crank and then take full advantage of the multiple gear ratios from the drive train. We will continue by exploring the second method, which is the mid drive. But first, we will further expand the efficiency of the motor at the expense of decrease in power.

A huge reduction of the limit current from 50A all the way to 12A further broadens the efficiency band of the motor (peak power goes down from 750W down to 450W). On this new power curve (light blue curve) The peak motor power coincides with the peak efficiency of the motor (in contrast to the 50A and 30A, where the peak motor power and peak efficiency are at different motor speeds). The start up torque and torque at low speed is not that important anymore since it is channeled through the drive train. However, this is in exchange for mandatory downshifts at the stops and hills. All in the attempt to increase efficiency.
In this example, the same hub motor is used and applied as a mid drive. The gear reduction at the crank is strategically chosen so that it will coincide with the cyclist's normal cadence range (~ 70-90PRM) . As long as the rider pedals within the normal cadence range (yellow window), the motor will operate at peak efficiency all the time, conserving energy and increasing the range of the battery. Notice the new power curve at 12A (light blue curve at the chart above) is similar to the Bosch and Shimano power curve on the chart below.

A similar simulation is found here with the hub drive with standard controller
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?bopen=false&motor=M2707&cont=C35&batt=B4812_MH&autothrot=false&throt=100&axis=mph&cont_b=cust_12_12_0.03_V&motor_b=M2707&batt_b=B4812_MH&add=false&blue=Lbs

And then the limit current is reduced to 12A and comaparing between the two.
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?bopen=true&motor=M2707&cont=C35&batt=B4812_MH&autothrot=false&throt=100&axis=mph&cont_b=cust_12_12_0.03_V&motor_b=M2707&batt_b=B4812_MH&add=false&blue=Lbs

With the new power curve at 12A, the speed is changed to cadence (RPM x 0.3) for mid drive application. (You can play around with the throttle to simulate percentage level of pedal assist)
http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?bopen=false&motor=M2707&cont=cust_12_12_0.03_T&batt=B4812_MH&autothrot=false&throt=96&axis=rpm&cont_b=cust_12_12_0.03_V&motor_b=M2707&batt_b=B3614_PF&add=false&blue=Lbs

Using a mid drive to gain efficiency is easier said than done, since in actual application, the most troublesome part of the ride is the mashing of the drive train when changing gears, and the associated loss of momentum and loss of speed in the process. Sometimes, the efficiency gain is lost in actual translation when going uphill and then missed to shift in the right gear and then you slowed down or even come to a full stop. Whatever efficiency gain you had are now all gone.

Cutting the power to gain efficiency results to performance handicap to the mid drives (slow acceleration) when compared to hub drives, most especially noticed in stop and go situations. Just imagine having to downshift especially if the stops are very near apart and very frequent. That would be an unpleasant riding experience with a sore shifting thumb, from a supposedly efficient ebike.

However, the big players are working hard to fine tune their mid drives to make it as user friendly as hub drives. And I think there will be more sophisticated controllers in the future with a "city mode" button or push button dedicated to provide enough start up torque without having to downshift.

Or you can just pair it to a continuously variable transmission (CVT) like the Nuvinci Harmony where it will keep your cadence in the efficient zone automatically and also shifts down to the lowest gear (first gear equivalent) at every stop. However, the price of this Nuvinci Harmony is still prohibitive to most riders, for now.

1/2
harryS
1 week ago

Sorry, I am very new to this ebike thing. Is it possible to run an ebike (say a bbso2 mid drive) off a 36v battery with only 2.6ah? We are moving to europe but I would like to build the bike before we go since it needs to be adapted to carry a dog too..

FYI. While cleaning out my garage and swapping the lawnmower for the snowblower, I decided to do some science. No, a 750W BBS02 kit from Lunacycle will not run on 36V. Even fully charged at 42 volts. the Ryobi isn't enough, It might be possible to use the progamming cable and a PC to set the motor up for 36V, but I don't have the cable, electing not to mess with that stuff.

However, I do have a 12volt, 9 cell lithium battery that I added in series to the Ryobi. I took it around for a half mile. The combo was able to push out 20A peak current. I didn't think the Ryobi could do that. With the regular battery, the motor will draw 25A, SInce the Ryobi was never intended to push those current levels, you'll have a short range ride and eventually ruin the battery.

1/3
Ken M
1 week ago

-Ohm
-Bulls Outlaw
-Smartmotion
-The new generation Easy Motion hub drives
-Juicebikes CCS - Torah names his power assist as "dynamic assist", no jerky on-off propulsion.
-Radcity
-Magnum- some riders report jerky on-off feel at low speeds.

I tend to think of geared hub motors as unique from gear-less hub motors. While the gear reduction in a geared hub motors certainly provides more torque it does so at the expense of reduced reliability (the internal gears are almost always plastic and they will wear out of time ... I've read that many tend to need replacement every 5,000 - 10,000km while a gear-less hub drive has literally no wear-out expect for the axle bearings which can last up to 100,000km).

The sad result of the motor regulations in Europe usually pushes the technology towards mid-drives because the internal gear reductions multiple the torque of low wattage motors. In the US the 750W regulation provides a unique opportunity for a gear-less hub motor to provide a better solution overall.

Note: In reality the 750W rating is dubious because peak ratings tend to ignore the specification. In reality any motor could be rated at 750W based on a test protocol. Unless both the controller and motor are considered in the drive specification the regulations are of no real legal merit (which is a good thing for anyone really wanting a good performance eBike and not some slow European eBike limited to 20mph max assist speed.

I know now I'll get a bunch of haters telling me that 20mph is fast enough and anything faster is not safe because they are scared to ride faster. Serious get a life and let those that feel comfortable riding at 20-40mph enjoy some assist at those speeds.

Ken M
1 week ago

I think the industry over-prioritizes the European granny-power limit of 25oW. This essentially drives a significant % of the bike designs towards mid drives (not that they are not the best configuration for mtn bikes). The US power limit of 750W is still a bit lower than is really needed to enable an eBike to become a truly viable transportation product but it's much better. I have no clue why the big OEM don't have all motors produced to allow 750W nominal minimum (higher peak levels for a duration of a few minutes to complete an occasional hill) and just program the power level down in those EU countries that are scared of anyone going faster than 28kpm (may as well be walking).

Mark Peralta
3 weeks ago

Technology Bern University of Applied Sciences have conducted an efficiency test and concluded that geared hub drive (Maxxon for example) are most efficient compared to several Bosch and other mid-drive motors.

This should give a solid evidence to prove that mid-drives are not the most ideal in all cases. All this talk of efficiency is just pure talk. I also know from experience that my geared hubs gave me more range than mid-drives. Again, there are + and - to both but simply saying mid-drives are efficient is just BS. Please look at the detailed reports below. I still think a good geared hub motor coupled to a torque sensor gives the best power and range combo. [MAC, Easy motion 2018 geared hubs]

Here is a video:
https://www.srf.ch/play/tv/redirect/detail/bcb452ec-d249-4760-aabf-21a6d3cd5d9a

Summary of the test:
https://www.ti.bfh.ch/service/news/news_details/article/e-mountainbikes-im-test.html

Reports for each candidate bikes:

Specialzied levo: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Specialized_Levo.pdf

Cube Reaction pro: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Cube_Reaction_Pro.pdf

Bergamont E-roxter: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Bergamont_E-Roxter50plus.pdf

Haibike hardnine: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Haibike_HardNine_5.0_2run.pdf

Scott E-aspect: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Scott_E-aspect.pdf

Diavelo e650i: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Diavelo_e650i.pdf

Giant Dirt- E: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Giant_Dirt-E.pdf

Flyer uproc 2: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Flyer_uproc_2.pdf

Wheeler I-reader HD: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Wheeler_I-Reader_HD.pdf

Whistler Bware: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Whistle_Bware_2run.pdf

Ghost Kato: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Ghost.pdf

Hi Ravi, that's a very interesting post since I am excited to see a very efficient hub drive. I don't see the Maxon hub drive as one of the ebikes tested in the article.
https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Elektro_Mountainbike_Spezial_BFH_Kassensturz.pdf
They were all mid drives and one hub drive which was the Diavelo. Extract of the article were the following:

Wheeler rider HD, yamaha PWX, 500wh battery = 45 km or 11.0 wh/km
Cube reaction pro500, Bosch CX, 500 wh battery = 46 km or 10.8 wh/km
Bergamont Roxster, Bosch perf cruise, 500 wh battery = 49 km or 10.3 wh/km
Haibike Xduro hardnine, Bosch CX, 500 wh battery = 44 km or 11.3 wh/km
Flyer UPROC, Panasonic motor, 500 wh battery = 38 km or 11.3 wh/km
Specialized Levo, Brose, 460 wh battery = 37 km or 12.6 wh/km
Giant Dirct E, Yamaha sync dr, 409 wh battery = 41 km or 10.1 wh/km
Scott Aspect, Bosch motor, 506 wh battery = 41 km or 12.3 wh/km
Stoke E-blade, Bosch perf CX, 400 wh battery = 38 km or 10.6 wh/km
Whistle B ware, Bosch perf CX, 510 wh battery = 40 km or 10.1 wh/km
Ghost Kato2, Shimano E6000, 418 wh battery = 44 km or 9.5 wh/km
Diavelo E9501, Diavelo hub drive, 420 wh battery = 28 km or 17.6 wh/km

On that comparison the mid drives consumption ranges from 9.5 wh/km to 12.6 wh/km. There was only one hub drive and it comsumed more energy at 17.6 wh/km.

The Maxon drive provides promise for high efficiency from it's claimed 10.0 wh/km.
However, I want to see the source if it was from in-house information or from an independent test. If you can send me the link, I would greatly appreciate it.

Where was the image above taken?
I don't see it from Maxon website.
https://www.maxonbikedrive.com/en/home.html
The hub drive can have a higher peak efficiency considering less energy is wasted from the mechanical transmission. But That's all theory, a third party side by side comparison would be very interesting and very exciting since Maxon claims it can attain 10.0 wh/km consumption.

Regardless, the difference in efficiency is minimal but a hub drive is much easier to ride than a mid drive and preserves the life of the drive train (more durable).

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Mark Stonich
1 month ago

Thanks for your answer. She had a motorcycle accident when younger. Things were actually fine until last year when she slipped on an ice patch and broke her knee cap. That's when the knee problems started to come back. There's a loss of strength accompanied by pain when putting too much pressure on the knee. Walking is not a problem, but carrying heavy loads is no longer possible. Not sure of all the details, as it's a friend's wife. I offered to help put the bike/kit together as they're both over 75.

In a lot of cases the apparent lack of strength isn't that the muscle isn't strong, but pain prevents you from applying full tension with it. Reducing the bend in the knee with short cranks and spinning freely (easier with shorties) often helps. That she has no trouble walking, where the knee isn't loaded while bent, suggests that reducing the bend MAY help. She should run this past her Ortho and PT to get their opinion.

If she's a candidate for knee replacement, everyone I know who's had one, including my wife, says they should have done it sooner. 7 weeks after Jane's TKR she was climbing much better than before. And she rode 9 miles the day before her surgery. But after replacement, a lot of people lose range of motion and still need shorties. I've sold at least 100 sets 100mm or shorter to adults. Many to people with knee replacements whose PT wasn't aggressive enough.

If you want to have them contact me I can help them determine if short cranks are likely to help. I have all the work I want/need and would have retired years ago if there was someone else, anywhere on the planet, doing the work. So if her situation doesn't warrant shorties, I won't try to talk them into anything to try to make a sale. If nothing else, I can offer her some strategies for biking with bad knees. And Jane can share her experience with the Copenhagen Wheel.

Mark Stonich; BikeSmith Design & Fabrication
5349 Elliot Ave S. Minneapolis, MN 55417 USA
Ph. (612) 710-9593 http://bikesmithdesign.com
https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikesmith/ (Mostly Wildlife)

Recommended reading;
Crank Length, Leg Length and Power
Short Women / Short Crank Feedback
Range of Motion Limitations & Crank Length

In case they worry that short cranks will cost her power;

I recently got a phone call from an average sized adult mountain biker who says he's climbing familiar hills 1 or 2 gears higher on 135s than he'd used with 175s before he messed his knee up. He was just hoping shorties would let him ride again. Now he wants to get back into racing. He’s in Big Bear Lake California where the “Hills” are mountains.

A local Gravel Road racer is 6'-2” (188cm) and after much trial and error finds he is fastest on 135s despite having no RoM or other issues.

Another 6’2” gent in Texas competes in long distance Brevets on 95mm cranks due to severe range of motion limits. Another man with range of motion limits is climbing the hills of San Francisco with a single 38t chainring and a 12-25 cassette, also on 95s. The fellow in San Francisco bends pedal spindles. I just heard from another gent who does the grueling 200 mile Seattle to Portland on 95s.

One of my customers, 5'-7" (170cm) tall professional triathlete Courtney Ogden, won the big money 2011 Western Australia Ironman on 145s. He's done extensive work with the people at PowerCranks where they are becoming big advocates of shorter cranks.

A few years ago a team of 4 Australian MTB racers, ranging in height from 5'10 to 6"1 won a 24 hour MTB race on 125s. With the shorter cranks they rarely had to stand. conserving energy. And they were able to get by with a single chainring, before today’s monster cassettes, because the useful RPM range is so wide with shorties. Many customers have reported that they notice themselves needing to shift much less often.

This from a serious roadie with severe range of motion limitations;
"I’m 5’8” 168lbs – regarding strength, I’m not the strongest. However, I’m not the last up the hills and can do more than my fair share on the front of the group. The 115mm Andels you made for me still have no issues what so ever, I’m on my second set of rings! Please send me another set of 115s for my new bike.”
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Knee Friendly Pedaling

Riders usually push down on the pedals by using their quads to straighten the knee joint. First pushing the pedal forward, then down. There is always going to be a bit of this going on but you can do a lot to reduce the loads on your knees.

Try concentrating on using your glutes and hip flexors to swing your knees up and down. Relax your quads and just let everything below the knee act as a connecting rod between the knees and pedals. At the bottom of the pedal stroke use your hamstrings just a little bit to pull your foot back as though you were scraping mud off your shoe. Don't consciously push forward at the top of the circle. That's when knees are most bent and the tissues around them are most vulnerable.

If you aren't clipped into the pedals, and most of the time even if you are, you don't pull up on the pedal. But the idea of using the hip flexors to lift the knee is to reduce the amount of work done by the front foot that is wasted by raising the weight of the other leg and foot. If you aren't clipped into your pedals you don't want to completely unweight the upward foot. Some contact is needed to keep it located on the pedal. A grippy pedal like a spiky MTB platform or the MKS Grip King (AKA Lambda) makes this easier.

Pedalling on the mid-foot instead of the ball of the foot reduces stress on the knee. And testing has shown that it increases endurance, at a slight cost in peak power. However, be careful to avoid toe/tire interference.

If you do this while spinning freely, in low gears, you won't have to apply much force with any single muscle group. If you aren't comfortable spinning, your cranks are probably too long. 21-21.6% of inseam is best for healthy, non-triathlets, without joint issues. When a person is uncomfortable at higher RPM it isn't due to the muscles switching from extension to contraction more often. It is because their muscles are extending and contracting at a speed that is too fast for them. This recruits more fast twitch muscles, which produce more heat and lactic acid. Shortcranks reduce this speed by moving the muscles a shorter distance per revolution. Allowing more use of slow twitch fibers for a higher comfortable cadence.

Your quads will still end up doing much of the work. But easing some of the tension pulling your patella down onto the joint can make a big difference. When I get a twinge in my knee, it reminds me to concentrate on my pedaling and I actually accelerate.

BTW I read about this type of pedaling years ago, as a way to help you spin better. So it has a double benefit.

For eBike types, think of more efficient pedaling as a way to lessen drain on your batteries. ;)

Cates
1 month ago

Hi all,

I have narrowed my choices down to 3 very different ebikes. I have found these three for almost exactly the same price. They are all around $2200 or 2300 including shipping and all brand new.

I have looked at lots of reviews on all 3. I am looking for opinions on which one would be the best as far as long lasting and quality of components. Anyone have any thoughts and opinions?

The three bikes are as follows:

Izip Electric bike Peak+
Tern Vektron
Riese and Muller Roadster Touring

Thank you!

Bosch eBike Systems
2 months ago

BOOGALOO eMTB Race heading to Southern California

Join the fun at the SoCal Endurance Race at the Vail Lake Resort in Temecula, CA Nov 4th

Oct 18th, 2017 Temecula, CA – THE BOOGALOO, a Class 1 pedal-assist mountain bikes (eMTB) race and demo event presented by Troy Lee Designs & Bosch eBike Systems, is heading to Southern California after a sold-out & stoked-up race at the Kamikaze Bike Games in Mammoth. Check out this video from Troy Lee Designs recapping the race, as well as the video produced by Transworld Motocross.

The race will be held Saturday November 4th on a course specifically designed for eMTB racers and built by legends like Brian Lopes, David Cullinan, Ryan Hughes and both previous champions of the Pro Class Victor Sheldon and Evander Hughes. Expect near-vertical ascents, killer drops, obstacles, berms, and more that will take you and your eMTB to the limits of what you thought possible on two wheels.

Limited registration is filling up fast for 32 Amateur “Race of Champions” slots. The early-bird entry fee of $60 is available until Oct 31st and will have you treated like a pro for the day with a Class 1 eMTB provided by Bulls, Haibike, Raleigh Electric, and Specialized set up to your specifications. Riders will also get a custom Troy Lee Designs A1 helmet, number plate, fender and commemorative t-shirt to take home along with some great stories from the event. The fastest five will win a premium Bosch Power Drill. REGISTER NOW before all entries are sold out. Also take advantage of the early-bird pre registration price as on site entries will increase to $75 per rider.

The Pro Class eMTB race will take place immediately following the Amateur race, where pros will compete for a $2,000 purse and Power Tools.

“These events are just full of stoke. I am pumped that we are able to get the Vail Lake eMTB race together so quickly following the success of the recent Boogaloo race at the Mammoth Kamikaze Games. We have already been cutting the coarse and it’s shaping up great, this is going to be one exciting day of racing!” -Troy Lee

If racing isn’t your blood, FREE demos will be also be available before and after the race on a custom built course suited for beginner riders near the registration area of the So Cal Endurance / So Cal Enduro at Vail Lake. Bikes from Raleigh Electric, Haibike, Bulls Bikes and Specialized, will be on hand with representatives from each brand to set up and educate riders on Class 1 eMTB riding.

Demo Schedule:

Friday 11/3/17 – 1pm – 5pm

Saturday 11/4/17 – 9am – 12pm

Sunday 11/5/17 – 9am – 12pm

“I want to give a big congrats and thanks to all the our Mammoth Boogaloo racers who poured their hearts out there on the track. We had teens racing against men and women three times their age, and many legends from the extreme sports world.” said Claudia Wasko, General Manager of Bosch eBike Systems Americas. “We look forward to seeing who returns to Vail Lake to challenge our reigning Pro-Class champ Evander Hughes.”

Race Director of So Cal Endurance and So Cal Enduro, Jason Ranoa said. “ I am looking forward to hosting my first Class 1 eMTB event. We will be racing and doing demo’s on a closed course in hopes to educate MTB riders about what Class 1 eMTB is all about. You can’t help but smile after taking a lap on our course!”

Class 1 is a specific classification for sustainable use on any trail, path or riding area. Class 1 eMTB models are defined as “a human powered bicycle with fully operable pedals, and an electric motor under 750 Watts peak power that must be pedaled to activate the motor and that ceases to provide power above 20 mph”. (See Photo 4 for Class 1 visual)

Once again please visit the pre registration page for early-bird pricing by clicking here - http://www.socalendurance.net/boogaloo.html

###

Contacts for press inquiries:

Aaron Cooke, Proper Management

Phone: 714-720-5872

BoogalooeMTB@gmail.com

Andy Ambrosius, Tech Image

phone: +1-312-888-1628

andy.ambrosius@techimage.com

jazz
2 months ago

The video is good, however, it is not a fair comparison nor an accurate one.

The Rad actually is putting out over 1000w peak (22a x 48v = 1056), which is 2x more than the Sondors at just over 500w peak (15a x 36v = 540). So showing the Rad zooming past the Sondors while putting out double the watts doesn't tell the whole story.

The Rad Rover costs $500 more which allows for better components. To do this comparison right, you should have compared a Sondors X 48v 500w (20a x 48v = 960) which would have been a much closer in performance and still $250 cheaper than the Rover even with the 7 speed, front suspension upgrade and shipping. Add a 25a aftermarket controller for $65 and the X puts out 1200w vs the Rads 1056w peak for still $200 less than the Rad. The Rad does have 750w motor but as you can see the wattage difference is not that much with both stock bikes at peak power. Another huge difference is that X comes with a much larger battery than the Rover 17.5aH vs 11.6aH.

Overall the Rad is probably a better eBike if you compare it from top to bottom. But for little over $1000, the Sondors X is a better overall value.

Verde
2 months ago

SIMI VALLEY, Calif. (Interbike 2017) – No matter the adventure, IZIP, a leader in fun-focused electric bikes, has a bike that will amplify your fun so you can travel further and faster. Whether you’re looking to explore endless miles of unknown dirt roads and trails, change your commute to work by skipping the car ride in favor of your city’s bike paths, or spending your weekend cruising along the coast in comfort, IZIP will enable and inspire you.

Heading into this year’s Interbike trade show, IZIP unveils four new models for 2018 that span a variety of riding styles that integrate modern performance – from pavement to trails.

E3 Moda (MSRP $3,749)
Bold style compliments practicality in the speedy new E3 Moda bike that combines a max 28 MPH pedal-assist German-made Brose motor that’s integrated into the downtube with bright lights and a rear rack for cargo versatility. A workhorse commuter, the Moda efficiently clocks miles on the way to work or while you're getting some extra exercise in on the way to yoga class. With a 504Wh battery, 27.5-inch wheels for fun and stability, disc brakes, and Shimano Deore 10-speed drivetrain, the Moda, simply put, is a practical speedster.

E3 Moda

E3 Moda

E3 Dash (MSRP $2,699)
The reputable E3 Dash is a proven performer that gets you where you need to go … fast. Well known in speed pedal-assist circles as a seriously fun transporter, the Dash flattens hills and takes on long commutes with ease. Sporting a 28 MPH TranzX Center Motor, 700c wheels, RockShox Paragon front suspension fork, robust alloy fenders, and a rear pannier rack, potholes and bumps are no match for the Dash as you comfortably ride in style.

E3 Dash

E3 Zuma (MSRP $2,299)
The E3 Zuma, inspired by the beach lifestyle found at world famous Zuma Beach in southern California, blends comfort with style. The relaxed frame geometry makes it feel like your flip-flops never left the ground, but the bike remains perfectly balanced with a low center of gravity thanks to a downtube-mounted battery pack and powerful mid-drive motor. The Zuma’s long-range 417Wh battery, 26-inch wheels, disc brakes, and lightweight aluminum alloy frame powers weekend surf adventures, as well as mid-week errands around town.

E3 Zuma

E3 Zuma

E3 Peak DS (MSRP $4,599)
With 130mm of RockShox full-suspension, 27.5-inch all-mountain wheels, and Enduro-inspired geometry, the new E3 Peak DS eMTB is built to conquer the toughest terrain – up and down. The super-responsive 6061 aluminum ally frame is built with proven trail engineering to inspire any rider, but it's the best-in-class Bosch Performance CX mid-motor with a 500Wh battery that really amps things up. Magura disc brakes, SRAM NX 1X 11-speed drivetrain, and short chainstays give the Peak DS excellent handling performance for an unforgettable ride on your favorite dirt.

E3 Peak DS

IZIP is also leading the charge in helping preserve our environment with its new, first in the cycling industry Call2Recycle battery-recycling program. Batteries contain hazardous materials, and if dumped or disposed of incorrectly the harmful elements can find their way into our water sources and adds to pollution. IZIP’s program disposes of old batteries in an environmentally responsible manner, and collection sites are located throughout the U.S. and Canada. After collecting and sorting, the batteries are processed and turned into new batteries, stainless steel products, and other products. For more, please check: call2recycle.org.

About IZIP
No matter how you ride, IZIP has a fun, fast, and efficient ebike for you. From commuters, cruisers, and cargo bikes to full-suspension, trail, and touring models, IZIP covers every riding option for leisure, trails, and pavement. With more than 10 years of experience in the ebike industry, IZIP is now a veteran and a leader in ebike technology in the U.S. A division of Accell North America, IZIP is supported by a network of authorized dealers and backed by the Electric Bike Competence Center of North America. For more about IZIP, please check: izipelectric.com.

MEDIA CONTACT: Keith Cozzens, Verde Brand Communications, keith@verdepr.com, 970-259-3555 x122

1/6
scrambler
3 months ago

As mentioned above, not sure why you want so many gears on an E-bike. This is one of the benefits of pedal assist, you can simplify the gearing system.

If you want many gears so you can fine tune your pedal cadence, have a look at bikes using the NuVinci Continuously Variable transmission, it basically gives you an infinite number of gears.
You can twist to any gear ratio within the total 380% range.

You also did not mention if you want a full suspension bike, or hard tail...

Koben (below) has a bike with the Nuvinci N380 and a Carbon belt. It is not step thru, but has a low inclined top tube, and they have a great frame size selection, including 15" and 17".
They are using the Bafang Max motor which has 80 nm of torque and 350W (750W peak)
http://www.karmicbikes.com/shop/koben-s
But no suspension.

Now range wise, it depends on the usage (terrain, level of assist etc...). Most E-Bikes use batteries with a capacity around 500Wh, but what you can do is carry a second battery with you if more range is needed.

Some manufacturer like Riese & Muller offer Dual Battery bikes, like the various Delite models below (full suspension)
https://www.r-m.de/en-us/e-bike/
But their smallest frame height seems to be 19" (49cm), and I am not really sure if that is the seat tube height or something else (worth checking with them)

They do have step thru models like the Nevo (front suspension | hard tail), and you could carry a spare battery with that one.

They have many configurations for each model, including choices of gearing system, from the Continuously variable transmission, to regular derailleur, to even the Rohloff 14 speed Internal Geared Hub on the Delite.

EBR also has a guide with bikes for small people below
https://electricbikereview.com/guides/ebikes-for-small-people/

There is also a European database search where you can search by advanced criteria. Some of the model are also sold in the US, but not all of course
https://www.ebike-base.de/en/

Ben Martinez
4 months ago

Current opinion from Grin Technologies and the techies at Endless Sphere says that a lithium battery is most healthy if kept between 80% full charge and 20% minimum charge. Recharging a battery to peak capacity after every ride and then not immediately using it is not a good thing. Some eBike manufacturers actually specify how much charge time is needed to reach 80%.

PhilRW
4 months ago

Update: I've posted pictures and updated the review here.

I had test ridden and researched quite a few ebikes lately in search for a bike that had most (if not all) of the following specs (much like scrambler's thread):

mid-drive, class 1
traditional high-step frame for extra stability
upright seating posture for comfort, keep weight off my hands as much as possible
front suspension
hydraulic disc brakes
NuVinci transmission with Harmony or H|Sync automatic shifting
Gates belt drive for long term durability, quiet/smooth, and (potentially) lower long-term maintenance
integrated light(s), if possible

I happened across a 2016 Tempo Carmel at a small local bike shop and gave it a test ride. I wasn't expecting or even looking for the bike, but there it was. And it was a lot of fun. After testing out a few more bikes, I decided the Carmel was the bike for me, so I purchased it for what I felt was a very good price and rode it 11 miles home, the last couple up a relatively long hill. Google Maps says it's 262 feet over 1.5 miles, which makes it a 3.3% grade. I currently weigh 98 kg and I was carrying at least 5 kg on my back. For the steepest part of the hill (4.8% grade over 0.4 miles), the bike kept up a solid 7 mph in maximum assist. I am 5'10" and the large/48cm frame fits me nicely. Granted, I still had to work, too, but it didn't kill me and I'm not in great shape (yet). I wasn't sweaty by the top of the hill.

I believe the motor is the MPF 6c, which the spec sheet says is 75 Nm of torque and 250 W nominal, 500W peak. The motor itself is incredibly responsive and quiet, about as quiet as the Brose motor on the Bulls Lacuba Evo E8 I tried. I believe it might be limited to the international 25kph standard? (More ride research is needed here.) The bike doesn't have brake inhibiters but doesn't need them because the motor stops a fraction of a second after you stop pedaling. Also, the belt drive makes this bike very quiet and smooth. Honestly I couldn't hear the bike that much at all working up the hill in 100% assist mode. The motor was responsive enough to highlight my own faults as a cyclist: inconsistent delivery of power to the pedals. I'll get better over time. :)

The bike came with the N360 hub and the 3-button base controller (H3). The preprogrammed cadence speeds are approximately 40, 55, and 70 rpm (see here for more details on the system). I have not tried a bike with the advanced controller yet (H8), but so far I am happy with the three speeds. I might eventually change out the controller. I typically stayed with the middle 55-rpm mode and was pleasantly surprised how steady my cadence was. One time after I decelerated more rapidly than normal, I started pedaling again and was in a much "lower gear," or faster cadence, than I expected. I think I fooled the controller into believing I was going to come to a complete stop. It quickly recovered. Since I had several stops and intersections on my route home, I was glad not to have to constantly shift down. In fact, It was nice not thinking much about shifting at all, and even though I am totally capable of managing that part of the ride, I was able to spend my mental energy elsewhere.

The handling of the Tempo was quite nice on dry pavement and I felt more confident with this bike than my previous bikes (of course, that's not saying much given my previous models). It corners nicely and is stable at 30+ mph downhill. The tires have a nice hybrid tread pattern for pavement and packed gravel trails, and they have a reflective sidewall as well.

On to the controls: There is a five-button controller near the left grip with +, -, light, mode, and walk. The MPF-branded computer doesn't give an estimated range remaining display, but it does have odometer, trip distance, trip time, average speed, max speed, and clock. Always on the display, from left to right, are assist level (10 levels!), speed, cadence rpm, and 5-segment battery meter. There is a backlight and a micro-USB port on the controller, and the only button on the display unit is the power button. It is detachable and has its own coin cell backup power supply.

There are hydraulic disc brakes on both wheels and the front light is wired into the controller and runs off of the main battery. The rear light is battery powered and only blinks (at least I can't get it to do anything else). It's probably more energy efficient to blink a battery-powered LED anyway. Walk mode works by holding down the dedicated walk button. There are the typical bosses for fenders and racks, although it might be tough fitting a fender to the front fork since there is little clearance between it and the tire. Also, the front suspension is a single-spring system with pretension adjustment and no lock-out. I figure it's fine for my purposes and may even be more reliable long-term than a more sophisticated dual-piston system. The seat post also has suspension on it. I found myself sinking into it after riding for a while. Maybe there's an adjustment on it, I'll have to look.

My other top contenders were the Felt Verza E 10, the Bulls Lacuba Evo E8, and the Wallerang. The Felt uses the Bosch system and both the local dealers that I tried were having trouble with some of the the display/head units. The Bulls is a nice bike but I really wanted the NuVinci automatic shifting for a truly brain-dead biking experience. :) Also the Wallerang Di2 auto-shifting with the Alfine 8 was really cool.

Please ask away any question(s) you may have about this bike! I'm excited to have a more modern and responsive ebike. My last one is/was a Currie eZip Trailz that I converted from SLA to Lithium.

1/1
emco5
4 months ago

Current opinion from Grin Technologies and the techies at Endless Sphere says that a lithium battery is most healthy if kept between 80% full charge and 20% minimum charge. Recharging a battery to peak capacity after every ride and then not immediately using it is not a good thing. Some eBike manufacturers actually specify how much charge time is needed to reach 80%.

George S.
4 months ago

You cover a lot of ground. I hope people appreciate how honest you are being about the bikes and the motor. Most of the discussion centers around 1000 watt bikes. Since you mention a 45 amp controller, with a roughly 50 volt battery there is a potential here for around 2,000 watts. I don’t know what the bike will actually do. Everyone has drifted a few time zones from the original California intent, the 750 watt limit and the Class 3, bikes that were locked down to the class and ‘stickered’.

The problem with a kw ebike is that you need a lot of power or you will end up making 45 minute rides. A thousand watts lasts an hour with a kWh battery, but that’s theoretical. Pushing these performance cells can decrease the cycle life, so when is the kwh battery reduced to a level that is unworkable. A conservative estimate for battery size would be 1.5x the maximum peak power, but any bike that maintains a 30 mph speed is going to have limited range on a 1 kWh battery. Fat tires increase rolling resistance. Fat tire bikes are more for trails, I guess, but hills kill batteries. If you go with high AH cells, they tend to have poor cycle lives. If you charge to 85% to maintain capacity, you lose capacity up front. Is the tech really there for 1 kw and up ebikes?

Karl Gesslein just put up a long article about his bikes. He claims that none of his dozen or so bikes is currently ‘in service’. True, Karl is a test pilot who tries to break things, but he is a genuine off road rider, it’s what he loves. So keeping bikes in service is not a trivial matter, and the more power you have the more you are stressing components.

I’m a big fan of the MAC motor. I have the weakest version, but it will pull 1200 watts with a 50v battery. The nice thing is that the motor climbs the hills around here readily, it doesn’t get hot. It’s my favorite motor and it shows why geared motors are the ideal compromise. The big Golden Motor is also a great motor, but it’s not practical to put 20 pounds on some bikes. On the other hand, the MAC that I have doesn’t even have a cadence sensor. It has an excellent throttle and a workable speed controller, or cruise control. Clearly most of your problems with this bike revolve around trying to make a torque sensor version for the newer highest power version of the MAC.

For me it is too bad that someone didn’t make a nice $1500 bike with the MAC, just the standard version with the throttle and cruise. People might have begun to see why spending $200 more for a motor is worth it. Now the MAC is bogged down in a troubled build with tech that seems way more complicated than I want. You and Hicks are like the Holy Grail people. Eric says the HG is a 40 mph ebike, and I don’t know why he thinks this. Clearly it will be unregistered and people will ride it anywhere. Your version is a geared hub with a torque sensor and a 30 mph speed capability, 1,000 watts. So it’s Wild West, either way. Make what sells. You might want to Google “Cyclist kills pedestrian”. Some of the stories are gut wrenching.

The Bafang Max Ultra is a kw mid drive. It also offers a throttle, which makes it fairly unique. Clearly there is a showdown between Bafang and Bosch, though it might be out there a few years. But at some point no hub motor is workable, climbing steeper grades. I don’t know how capable the MAC will be. Once again, of course, there is no comprehensive Ebike Magazine that will run side by side tests on your bike, the Biktrix Ultra bike, some of Lunas pre-built bikes with the BBSHD, or with their ‘ludicrous’ controller. So no one will know, anyway, what this bike can do.

As an off road bike with a high powered geared hub, it’s an interesting proposition. People should admire the technology and the effort. Torque sensor may not make tons of sense for street riding where speed is maintained, but for terrain a good TS is valuable. But who knows what an off-road bike is? Can you really go for long rides with a 1 kWh battery? Will the components hold up?

In his article Karl was talking about people who just ride dirt bikes, the kind you fill up from a plastic gas can. The people who make these bikes have years of experience. Gasoline allows for long rides, I guess, and it is easy to refill the gas tank. There’s no aerobic exercise, but the drive train is more robust. The action around here is ATV’s. Maybe someone should make an electric ATV. What will people really do with this bike?

Good luck. It’s nice to know what people do to build new ebikes. I’d like to see how this bike measures up against some of the competition.

Timpo
4 months ago

Hello everyone, I'm thinking about buying an Amego Elevate, it's a Canadian bicycle.
https://www.amegoev.com/buy-electric-bikes/electric-bicyles/amego-elevate.html

As you can see, the speed(with pedal, non throttle) is limited to 40km/h (25mph)

But if you look at Magnum Peak, it goes up to 45km/h (28mph)
https://www.magnumbikes.com/product/magnum-peak/

They look very similar, probably come from same manufacture, anyways, what do I need to make Amego Elevate a full Class 3 ebike? Is it just as easy as swapping the display?

I called Amego and they said they can't raise it to 45km/h(28mph)...also I don't want to buy Magnum Peak since the shipping & US/Canada conversion rate won't be cheap.

Thanks

mrgold35
4 months ago

I was on the fence about a year ago between Sondors, Radrover, and Volt 4" fat tire bikes. I marked Sondors off the list because of the 30 day warranty and small motor. No one ever said "My ebike has too much power and I wish I've gone with a much smaller watt motor."

I'm about 270lbs and I add about another 20-25 lbs with bike accessories, rack+gear, and commuter back pack. The Radrover weights the same as the Radmini. I have zero issue pedaling in PAS 2-4 and/or using the throttle to get going across intersections in a hurry or up inclines. The Rad Power bikes have a nice feature of an on/off button for the twist throttle AND you have full 750 watts of power at any PAS level from 0-5. I added a clip on thumb throttle for easier access and better control. Also nice to have the throttle if you need to walk your bike up inclines or stairs. I trail ride a lot and thumb attachment makes it easier to access the gears, brake, throttle, and holding tight on handlebar grips. I would check with the Sondors X to see how the throttle works compared to the Radmini.

I ended up with purchasing two Rad Rovers and put over 3000 miles between them both in less than a year. I would also factor in a suspension seat post since the folding ebikes don't have a front suspension.

One side note: I always used PAS 5 on my work commutes with the standard Kenda tires and my top cruising speed was around 18-19 mph with peak (downhills) around 21-22 mph. I wore my rear Kenda out in around 800 miles and replaces with Vee8 tires. I can now cruise 19-20.5 mph in PAS 3-4 (depending on wind and how level) and my top peak speed is 23-25 mph on the same inclines. I never use PAS now and just use the throttle if I need full power for a short run.

fredi
4 months ago

This is my first ebike and my decision to buy her was based on getting the best ebike for me at the best price. First a little about me, I’m 60 years old, 6’1” and 230 lbs. A have a 34” Class-A RV and travel the east coast. On long trips I normally tow a Jeep Wrangler with a tray-style bike rack loaded with two or three mountain bike from a big box store. On short trips I leave the Jeep at home and mount the bike rack to the RV. Typical use of the bikes is for recreational riding in National and State parks. I thought it was time for a better bike and was intrigued with the idea of using ebikes and leaving the Jeep at home more.

I originally looked at Evelo because of their mid-drive with the NuVinci hub. They didn’t offer any local sales but work with local bike shops to provide service in conjunction with their 4-year/20,000-mile warranty. I was drawn to the Delta with the 750 watt mid-drive since all I’ve ever owned was mountain bikes and I wanted to make sure that it would get me up the hills. I soon discovered that where I live they only allow 500 watts and mid-drives are more efficient using the power, so while a 750 watt hub drive may struggle to get me up the hill, a 350 watt mid-drive should have less problems because they have higher performance, more torque and use less battery power. I also have always hated not being in the right gear at the right time and gnashing the gears and an Internally Geared Hub (IGH) like the NuVinci would solve those problems. Since I was planning on adding lots of comfort accessories like a plush seat, road tires, rear rack, fenders, lights, etc. and the Galaxy comes with all of those so I felt it was a better fit for me.

The Galaxy is billed as a comfort cruiser with an upright riding position, 27.5″ wheels and 2” tires on a ridge frame. Evelo makes two models the Galaxy, the GT with a step-through frame and the TT a traditional top tube frame. Each model comes in two versions, Premium or Fully Loaded. The Fully Loaded version upgrades the NuVinci N380 transmission to the Harmony fully automatic transmission and adds hydraulic brakes. So I ordered the Fully Loaded Galaxy TT version with a list price of $3899.

The bike came in about a week. She was double boxed and very well packed. The hardest part was getting the bike out of the box. I recommend having a little help here. Evelo isn’t kidding when they say the bike come almost fully assembled. Install the brake caliper, front wheel and fender, handlebars, headlight, and you’re done. They recommend charging the battery for 12 hours before the first use, so I plugged it in to charge overnight and then set about the process of assembling the bike which took about 30 minutes. They provided several allen wrenches, a couple of “real” boxed end wrenches and armed with the step by step instructions it was much easier to assemble than any bike I’ve ever bought from a big box store. My recommendation is that you put the fender on before you install the front wheel and then attach the brake caliper. The front wheel comes with a “Quick Release” so it’s really not a big deal.

The Galaxy is one of a small number of electric bikes that offer the NuVinci Harmony Automatic Transmission which allows me to enjoy the ride while it takes care of the shifting. In automatic it finds the proper gear while I dial in a comfortable cadence and set the assist level for my perfect ride. No more gnashing the gears and getting stuck on a hill because I was in the wrong gear. A simple button press changes the hub to manual mode, but I mostly I keep it in automatic on the lowest setting. The brushless motor combined with the Gates belt drive and the Harmony makes the ride smooth and virtually silent. I set the tire pressure to 50 lbs for a softer ride.

She comes with a 350 watt Bafang Max mid-drive motor (peak 600 watts) and uses a torque sensor (internal to the motor) and speed to determine how much power is drawn from the battery. The torque sensor uses a strain gauge inside the motor to measure pressure on the pedals. This allows for quick engagement and better sensitivity. I was concerned about the Galaxy’s uphill performance but found that she can easily climb hills at 8-12 mph that would normally bring me to a crawl. On level roads I can quickly reach the 20+ mph limit. At those speeds it’s nice to have the Tektro 180mm hydraulic disc brakes that provide great stopping power and simultaneously cut power to the motor. Once you stop there is a double fork kickstand to keep her upright.

The large backlit LCD display panel (made by King) is mounted center of the handlebars and can swivel forward or back to reduce glare. It’s easy to read and offers information about speed, distance, pedal assist, watts and a five segment battery charge level indicator. The control pad is located near the left grip, from there you can turn the bike on/off and select the level of assist. I really liked that holding the UP button turns on/off the backlight and holding the DOWN button activates “Walk” mode which moves the bike forward at about two mph. Pressing both the UP and DOWN buttons for 3 seconds puts you in the settings menu where you can increase the maximum speed to 25 mph, set the backlight level, and miles or kilometers. I set the wheel diameter to 27.5 inches since it defaulted to 26.

The bike has a thumb throttle but as a safety feature it doesn't engage unless the bike is moving. I originally thought I would need the throttle to get across an intersection or when starting up a hill, but the bike's torque sensor measures pressure on the pedals, so it quickly engages. It is so responsive and natural feeling that I haven't used the throttle much but I certainly have used “walk” mode several times.

The rear tail light is mounted directly beneath the battery rack so it isn’t blocked by my pannier and is powered by a couple of AA batteries. The LED Head Light has five modes and is USB rechargeable. It quickly installs on the handlebars with a rubber strap and the single large button on top makes it easy to turn on and change modes while riding.

Powering the bike is a 36 volt, 13 amp (468 wh) battery pack with an advertised 50 miles of range. I rode for over twenty miles before the charge indicator dropped from five to four bars. The battery weighs 8 lbs, can be charged on or off the bike and has its own level indicator. The small rubber cap protecting the charge terminal opens easily and stays closed. The battery is nicely protected in the full-size cargo rack and has a key lock which keeps it there and provides anti-theft security. You don’t need to leave the key in while riding and there’s a built-in handle to help remove the battery and carry it. Removing the battery makes it easier to lift the 46 lb bike onto my tray style carrier. The battery placement in the rack makes the bike a little heavy in the back, but frees up space for bottle cage bosses on the seat tube and allowed me to mount my folding lock on the down tube. All I did was add my Cloud-9 seat, bottle cage, pannier and a suspension seat post and I was ready to go.

After about a week of riding I took her to a local dealer for a full checkup. They did a minor adjustment to the brakes and gave her a clean bill of health, no charge. They were impressed at how well “I” put the bike together (LOL) and they loved the belt and throttle. I’ll be sure to make the checkup an annual event and return to that dealer.

Let me know if you have any questions

1/1
NikkiK
5 months ago

Thanks guys, there's a lot of information in here to digest. After thinking about it some more, I wonder if I should not try to get the best out of all worlds (trail and road) because I may end up getting a mediocre at everything type of bike. I'm a traditionalist with my actual mtn. bike - Stunt Jumper hard tail from mid 90's. Every time I go to upgrade, I have a hard time justifying the purchase of something that doesn't have a motor. In this case of an ebike I guess I can make that justification a little better, but going up to the $5-7K range seems like I should be driving an entire car around (albeit a cheap car). I'm headed out to go 'test drive' a few bikes in Salt Lake and hope to be able to get a better feel for it. Considering the Magnum Peak as an all around, but will give the longer range ones a try too. Chris, the Riese & Muller Delite Mtn. looks like the top of the line and of course once I try one of those on (or it's equiv. bike in SLC) I'm sure I'll throw all caution out the wind and then want the best / most expensive. At this point though, I'm trying to keep the range closer to 2K. Maybe that's a pipe-dream, but I'll want to save some $$ to upgrade my actual mtn. bike one day. ;-)

One quick question though, how important is weight on these bikes? I noticed that some 'carbon fiber' bikes are only a few pounds difference than some other bikes and I would assume with the bike the Chris mentioned weight would really be a factor. Is there a different SOTP (seat of the pants) feel when driving vs peddling all that weight up hill / long distances?

gadgetguy
6 months ago

Thanks for the quick reply.
i weigh 190 lbs and don't really take the bike off road that much.
what will be affected if i do take the bike off road ... lower gears?
and every time i call a bike shop they tell me i can't change the front chainring because it's a ebike ect. and they don't know what there doing.
You have an e3 peak that you did it to ... right?

I do own and e3 peak, I think it is a 2014 model year. The front chainring is actually easier to change than the rear cassette. You just have to purchase one with the correct bolt pattern (I think the one I purchased is in a previous post). It just bolts on. No special tools required.

The smaller the front ring the more revolutions (motor will turn) to turn the rear wheel one revolution. The smaller front ring allows the motor to spin faster and lightens the load on the motor when climbing a grade. The motor will generate less heat because gearing may be more favorable and motor is not working as hard. Since I don't climb steep grades, I decided to install 46t so that I stopped running out of gears (pedal turn without resistance) when riding over 20 miles/hour. I do find with the larger front ring I do shift more, but rarely use the biggest gear in the rear. I like that I can ride faster, but still have enough gears at the low end to climb hills. Shifting more allows the motor to run more efficiently. I don't find the shifting excessive with the larger chain ring.

Off road you may use the big ring in the back if the grade is steep enough. If the grade is too steep, you might have to walk the bike to avoid overheating the motor.

Look at the factory specs on other electric bikes, chain rings are larger unless the bike is dedicated for offroad. This bike is marketed for trails, that is why they put the smaller chain ring in the front. I think the new model Peak now has a 42t instead of a 38t. I am happy with my setup and if I change my behavior its no big deal to put the smaller ring back on ( I doubt I will ever change it).

fast
6 months ago

Thanks for the quick reply.
i weigh 190 lbs and don't really take the bike off road that much.
what will be affected if i do take the bike off road ... lower gears?
and every time i call a bike shop they tell me i can't change the front chainring because it's a ebike ect. and they don't know what there doing.
You have an e3 peak that you did it to ... right?

Al P
6 months ago

My 250w motor will reach 500w at peak, but even when shifting down, I still have to apply considerable force to get up steep hills. Add to that high speed pedaling while going nowhere. This defeats the whole purpose for buying an ebike. My 500w bike has 750w peak power and climbs steep Adirondack hills with no problem. Even my wife's 350w motor climbs with ease. If it didn't, she would be clamoring for a new bike. I would never buy another bike with a 250w motor unless I lived in a place like southern Florida, where there are no steep hills.

Ann M.
7 months ago

@GuruUno are you trying to figure out wiring for this battery? If so, you need it to go to the controller first, not directly to the motor. The Izip E3Peak was first produced in 2014 and Currie Tech/Raleigh has some technical information on its old site that may help. I've included a link to page with images of a TransX motor replacement which has a couple of pics with wiring visible that may help.

Also, consider contacting RPE (Rechargeable Power Energy) in Nevada, they specialize in rebuilding ebike batteries along with other lithium power packs. You ship them the battery, they do diagnostics and come back with recommendations and pricing.

GuruUno
7 months ago

"proprietary battery with different voltage output at different pins"
I noticed this while trying to get a readout, and saw the different voltages, which is another thing that has been bugging me.
There is a thread about using a 48v horn on an e-bike.....I can't get any activation of the horn when connecting to the 48v pins.
Last year I posted on this with no replies:

I've read that some have used a 48v electric horn on their 48v e-bikes.
I bought 2 of them, as I was of the belief the 1st one was no good.
The second one I got also did not work.
I take the battery off of my iZip E3 Peak, I take a voltmeter/tester to verify the voltage from the proper pins are correct (one set reads 48v, another reads 36v), and I test the horn by placing one wire on each terminal that shows voltage (the 48v set), and I get zero response from the horn.
Am I missing something?
I make reference to this link that discusses the use and installation, I sent the author an e-mail months ago, zero reply.
(link: http://www.ebikeschool.com/review-a-super-loud-ebike-horn-for-only-3/ )
Anybody have any ideas how/why?
I really, really want this horn.

Isaiah Yhomas
4 days ago

Why haven’t you reviewed the magnum metro +?

Saloth Sar
2 weeks ago

Are there any mid drive equivalents to this that have a throttle and full suspension? If not, at least mid drive or full suspension?

MWajdi Meeyyyie wajdi gaming and Real life
3 months ago

17:01 thx

Ren Tamayo
3 months ago

The Wimp Review

Michael Richardson
3 months ago

I like that you never mentioned theft deterrents, for things like the screen, and the wheels.......Utah, a safe place to be.... In a big city that thing is stolen in 30 seconds

EyeInTheSky
5 months ago

Hello Court! Thanks for that review! can you tell me, what specific hub motor is used in this bike? Thanks in advance! 👍

Mike Malloy
6 months ago

Great review! I like everything about this bike except that the display is not removable for when you park this bike at a public bike rack for a few hours. Thieves would think, oh, someone left their smartphone then realize, it's an electric bike. Either way, the display could grab unwanted attention when no one is around. I do like the throttle. Can it be used at all power levels or only when power level is set at zero?

Mike H.
6 months ago

too bad they don't make a bigger frame...19" is just too small for me.

Itz_Me_JJ
2 weeks ago

Mike H. How tall are you?

Jeff Coleman
7 months ago

Hey Court, I love your reviews, you've been a great help. I am in the market for an e-bike, I've narrowed it to the Magnum Peak, and the Sondors X. Which do you think would be the better purchase?

Alexi Thunderbird
7 months ago

was that porn on the computer behind the mechanic?

Kyle Kraus
8 months ago

I am sort of ne to electric bikes. Is there a mode where you can ride without any assist, or maybe without the battery on at all to reduce weight?

Mike Malloy
6 months ago

There are different power levels, you just set the pedal assist to 0 and your on your own power. Yes, you can remove the battery and still use the bike.

TSCM Corporation
9 months ago

Hi Court, thanks for your awesome site and reviews. I am 6' 1.5" feet tall and 234 lbs. Do you think the Magnum Peak would be a good fit for me ? The bike looks great and the price is nice :)

Sodisna
9 months ago

How is 2K, "affordable"?

Mike Malloy
6 months ago

Because ebikes can be much more expensive depending on quality, $2K is at the low end of the scale. Like cars, you can buy base model or high end model.

Mark S
10 months ago

Website info on this ebike is now posted!!! Thanks guys!!!

cadanes
10 months ago

If the Peak can double as a commuter then it should come with a rear rack, fenders, and front and rear integrated lights at $2k. I'll never understand the outrageous prices of electric bikes.

Harry Liang
6 months ago

If you factor in that the ebike becomes your everyday transportation commuter vehicle. The cost will pay off for itself very fast.

Mike Malloy
6 months ago

When I first started looking at ebikes, I had sticker shock too, especially since my 1yr old manual bike I bought at a local sports store cost ~$350, works great, just not electric. Skip forward a few months, (still shopping), I've gotten used to the price so $2K is not bad compared to other ebikes. Battery/Motor/Display drive up costs as well as component quality. You can buy Walmart/Sport store quality or professional quality so you have plenty of choices based on your needs and budget.

slappy76
9 months ago

What do you expect this to cost? The majority of the cost go into the battery. It's 624WH which is pretty damn big. You could get something with a 375-400WH for less but you've cut your range by a 50% or more.

I challenge you to buy a non electric bike with similar components and retrofit it with an equivalent motor and battery. You'll be spending about the same.

George Herman
10 months ago

Fair Price but there is no way I could ride that thing. That seat would destroy my manhood.

CncObsession
10 months ago

Please buy a camera mount for your helmet. 1 handed riding leaves a bit to be desired. Maybe a drone.

richard Powell
10 months ago

the one qualm I have with your videos when you are receiving mountain bikes is that you don't actually do any trail riding with them to showcase how they actually work for what they were meant for

Mike Malloy
6 months ago

Court, thank you for all you do. It's a huge help especially since many of us don't have access to all these ebikes locally when shopping around. We especially appreciate your un-biased and detailed reviews.

ElectricBikeReview.com
10 months ago

Very fair point Richard, I rode this more than is shown on camera but struggled to balance in snow while holding the camera. Many of my "reviews" are more like comprehensive overviews. I do my best with the time and terrain available :)

Micha A.
10 months ago

Nice Haibike copy, is it from China?

Larry Conger
10 months ago

Not internally routed, but price is fair, has lots of wires, Haibikes are still the best but I would like to see a throttle on some of the Bosch motors wud be kind of cool

TSCM Corporation
9 months ago

Larry Conger yes a haibike with throttle would be awesome!