FLX Blade Review

Flx Blade Review
Flx Blade Profile Right
Flx Blade Bafang Ultra 1000 Watt Mid Drive Motor
Flx Blade Spank Handlebars Bafang Control Center Shimano Ex1 Shifters
Flx Blade Spank Handelbars Magura Mtx Brake Levers
Flx Blade Bafang Control Center
Flx Blade Button Pad Throttle
Flx Blade Shimano Ex1 Trigger Shifters
Flx Blade 17.5ah Battery Rock Shox Fs Pike Rct3 Suspension
Flx Blade Rock Shox Fs Pike Rct3 Suspension Maxxis Tires
Flx Blade Funn Saddle Angled
Flx Blade Funn Saddle Seat Post
Flx Blade Cranks Funn Pedals
Flx Blade Shimano Ex1 Derailleur
Flx Blade Front 100mm Hub
Flx Blade Rear 135mm Hub
Flx Blade Profile Left
Flx Blade Sans 5ah Battery Charger
Flx Blade Review
Flx Blade Profile Right
Flx Blade Bafang Ultra 1000 Watt Mid Drive Motor
Flx Blade Spank Handlebars Bafang Control Center Shimano Ex1 Shifters
Flx Blade Spank Handelbars Magura Mtx Brake Levers
Flx Blade Bafang Control Center
Flx Blade Button Pad Throttle
Flx Blade Shimano Ex1 Trigger Shifters
Flx Blade 17.5ah Battery Rock Shox Fs Pike Rct3 Suspension
Flx Blade Rock Shox Fs Pike Rct3 Suspension Maxxis Tires
Flx Blade Funn Saddle Angled
Flx Blade Funn Saddle Seat Post
Flx Blade Cranks Funn Pedals
Flx Blade Shimano Ex1 Derailleur
Flx Blade Front 100mm Hub
Flx Blade Rear 135mm Hub
Flx Blade Profile Left
Flx Blade Sans 5ah Battery Charger


  • Purpose-designed electric made for extreme off-road use with a 1000-watt mid-drive motor, 17.5 ah battery and top speed upwards of 40 mph, it looks like a bicycle but is classified more as a moped
  • Extra large 203 mm, quad piston, hydraulic disc brakes provide ample stopping power, which is great for an electric bike that goes as fast as this one, good weight distribution with the motor and battery mid-frame
  • The control center can be easily seen in direct sunlight and offers tons of pertinent information like speed, range, wattage output and more, with no rear suspension or seat post suspension it could get a little bumpy
  • Given the heavier weight and higher possible speeds here, plus sized tires and wider boost hub spacing would have been nice, but at least the thru-axles are made to be stiff and sturdy
Warning, in some configurations this electric bike is classified as a moped or motorcycle and may not be ridden on cycling trails or paths. It may require licensing, insurance and lights when used on public roads.

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Video Review

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FLX Bike




$3,999 ($4,269 for Touring Edition)

Body Position:


Suggested Use:

Urban, Trail, Mountain

Electric Bike Class:

Moped or Motorcycle (Class 4)
Learn more about Ebike classes


1 Year Comprehensive


United States, Mexico, New Zealand, Australia, Canada, Europe, Japan, Singapore

Model Year:


Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

58.8 lbs (26.67 kg)

Battery Weight:

8.6 lbs (3.9 kg)

Motor Weight:

11.7 lbs (5.3 kg)

Frame Material:

6061 Aluminum Alloy

Frame Sizes:

19 in (48.26 cm)

Geometry Measurements:

19" Seat Tube, 24" Reach, 29" Stand Over Height, 30" Width, 73" Length

Frame Types:


Frame Colors:

Raw Metal, Gloss Black

Frame Fork Details:

Rock Shox FS Pike RCT3 with 160 mm Travel and Two-Position Compression Adjustment, Lockout, Rebound Adjustment, 15 mm Thru Axle with Quick Release

Frame Rear Details:

12 mm Thru Axle with Quick Release, 135 mm Hub Spacing

Attachment Points:

Rear Rack Bosses, Fender Bosses in Rear, Bottle Cage Bosses

Gearing Details:

8 Speed 1x8 Sram EX1, 11-48T

Shifter Details:

Sram EX1 Triggers


SAMCX, Aluminum Alloy, 170 mm Length, 44T Chainring with Narrow-Wide Tooth Pattern and Aluminum Alloy Guard and Frame-Mounted Guide


Funn, Plastic Platforms with Raised Teeth


Threadless, Internal Cups, 1-1/8" to 1-1/2" Tapered


Spank, Aluminum Alloy, 106 mm Length, 31.6 mm Clamp Diameter, One 10 mm Spacer, One 5 mm Spacer


Spank, Low-Rise, 770 mm Width

Brake Details:

Magura MT5e 4-Piston Hydraulic Disc Brakes with 203 mm Rotors, Magura MT5 Adjustable Reach Levers with Integrated Motor Cutoff


Spank Flat Rubber with Lockers


Cionlli Funn

Seat Post:

Aluminum Alloy

Seat Post Length:

350 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

31.6 mm


Spank 345 Trail, Aluminum Alloy, Double Walled, 32 Hole


Stainless Steel, 13G, Black with Nipples

Tire Brand:

Maxxis Minion DHF, 27.5" x 2.5" (650B)

Wheel Sizes:

27.5 in (69.85cm)

Tire Details:

35 to 5o PSI, 2.5 to 3.4 BAR, EXO Protection, Tubeless Ready

Tube Details:



USB Charging Port on Control Center, Optional Rear Cargo Rack ($55), Optional Front and Rear Fenders ($55), Optional Suspension Seatpost ($40), Optional Smartphone Mount ($20), Optional Integrated Headlight and Taillight ($100)


Locking Removable Battery Pack with USB Port, FLX Branded Bafang Control Center

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:

Bafang Ultra

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Geared Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

1000 watts

Motor Peak Output:

1350 watts

Motor Torque:

160 Newton meters

Battery Brand:


Battery Voltage:

48 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

17.5 ah Optional 21

Battery Watt Hours:

840 wh Optional 1008

Battery Chemistry:


Charge Time:

4 hours

Estimated Min Range:

30 miles (48 km)

Estimated Max Range:

90 miles (145 km)

Display Type:

FLX Branded Bafang DP C18, Fixed Backlit LCD, (Double Press i for Settings Menu and Password)


Current Speed, Max Speed, Average Speed, Odometer, Tripometer, Range, Calories, Trip Timer, Clock, Mode, Watts or Amps, Battery in Percentage or Bar, Assist Level (0-5)

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pad

Drive Mode:

Torque Sensing Pedal Assist, Trigger Throttle

Top Speed:

40 mph (64 kph) (35 MPH with Throttle Only in Sport Mode, 20 MPH with Pedal Assist in Eco Mode with Limiter Enabled, 35 MPH with Throttle Override, Larger Gearing Required for 60 MPH)

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Written Review

FLX is a relatively new electric bike company that sprung up late in 2016. They started with an Indiegogo campaign, offering three different electric bikes – the Roadster, Trail and Attack – with a funding goal of $50,000. They got $1.7 million! Now, FLX has a new model: the Blade. The Blade is a purpose-built electric mountain bike that was designed from the ground up with extreme riding in mind. The pricing starts at $3,999, which is definitely a pretty penny, and jumps up to to $4,269 for the Touring Edition, which features a rear rack, fenders, and integrated front and rear lights. This was an incredibly fun bike to test thanks to its top speed of around 40 mph and a 1,000 watt Bafang mid-drive motor. I had the opportunity to tear through some trails with this thing and needless to say, it has power to spare.

Now, the Blade only comes in one frame size, 19”, and while it does have a nice RockShox FS Pike RCT3 suspension in the front, it is a hardtail and there’s currently no option for a full-suspension setup. Thankfully, FLX does offer a seat post suspension upgrade, and of course you could always throw an aftermarket one on there yourself, as long as it offers 31.6 mm diameter like this. The frame itself is made of 6061 aluminum alloy, and the curb weight is a hefty 58.8 pounds. The single frame size could limit the range of rider heights that this bike is suitable for, but the geometry feels like it makes up for that a bit. The plus side of not having rear suspension is that the frame will likely be more rigid, but the vibration is transferred into your legs and back. The Blade also comes in two different colors: Raw Metal and Matte Black. The bike I was able to test came in the Raw Metal color and I personally really dug it. The unfinished looks makes for a very rugged and tough feel that might hide scratches better than a solid glossy color scheme. I did get a chance to see another model with in the Matte Black color and that looked nice as well.

It’s funny… at one point FLX mentioned on their website that the Blade is so dangerous it could kill you (It looks like they may have taken that part down now). But the truth is, because this electric bike is so powerful and fast, it does pose a unique risk to riders. Physically, one could get seriously hurt when pushing this thing to its limits. And there’s also the legal concern of riding this bike on mountain bike trails and public roads. It should be fine to ride the Blade in OHV parks and private property, but public roadways may be a different story and as an electric bicycle review site here, we want to be clear that this thing is neither a Class 1, 2, or 3 electric bike and is also not DOT approved to be licensed as a moped because it doesn’t have the appropriate lights and other safety certifications. All this to say, it’s probably a good idea to use this bike as intended to help minimize risk and maintain a good reputation for the emerging ebike space. Of course, there’s always a degree of inherent risk when riding any bicycle, but after a couple days on the Blade and seeing firsthand just how wild it is, I felt compelled to give you guys this little spiel. Okay, moving on :)

Driving the Blade to its top speed of around 40 mph is the Bafang Ultra geared mid-drive motor. This motor offers 1,000 watts of nominal power with up to 1,350 watts of peak power! But even more impressive is its 160 newton meters of torque. Yes… 160 Nm. It’s the torquiest motor I’ve personally tested and seems to fit the Blade’s philosophy of use quite well. Compared to most Class 1 ebikes which offer 50 to 90 Nm, the 160 here can feel exciting but might also put increased strain on the drivetrain and frame. Powering up moderate hills was a breeze (literally) and for all but the most extreme hills, I was able to rely solely on the throttle without pedaling at all. When tackling real hill climbs – ones where I actually had to get out of the saddle – I found the torque made the difference between me having to get off and walk up. One of the coolest things about this particular motor is that it’s Bafang newest version, which replaces some of the lower power designs that used nylon gears inside, this one uses all steel components. This upgrade in internal parts should help the motor handle the extreme torque being produced and improve its overall longevity. I was told that FLX is the first company to roll out purpose-built electric bikes with this new motor, so that’s pretty cool! They are on the cutting edge with this new Blade bike, yeah? Get it!

Now, I mentioned the top pedal-assist speed is around 40 mph, because technically the motor will continue providing pedal assist up to 60 mph (the throttle-only top speed is limited to 35 mph). Although I sincerely doubt 60 mph is even achievable, or safe for that matter, it is technically possible if you can keep up pedaling. In my testing, I was able to hit pretty close to 40 mph and I suspect stronger and more capable riders could manage to push it even further. And for those riders who are really looking to hit high speeds, FLX offers larger chainrings that do come with their custom CNC’d aluminum chain guards – a nice component that helps protect the chainring teeth and also keep your pants clean. I think it’s great that in addition to the guard plate, there is a guide accessory at the top to keep the chain from bouncing around and coming off at high speed as well as a narrow wide tooth pattern that locks onto the chain more securely. The torque sensor did a nice job of smoothly administering power equal to my output. So when I pushed lightly on the pedals, I got a little bit of assist; when I hammered down on them the motor unleashed all its power. The motor cutoff was also pretty quick, and cut power almost immediately after I stopped applying pressure on the pedals. I appreciate this aspect, especially with the high torque of the motor, as I’ve found that on some cadence sensor designs found on cheaper ebikes, the motor cutoff lags quite a bit, making navigating trails at slow speeds difficult and even a bit unstable and unpredictable.

Powering the motor is a 48 volt, 17.5 amp hour locking, removable battery pack. FLX estimates the range at up to 90 miles in the lowest pedal assist mode, but of course that depends on rider weight, ride style, and terrain being tackled. I’m a 200 pound rider and was able to tool around on this bike for a couple of hours in the highest pedal assist mode with plenty of battery to spare. I cannot say for sure what the range would be and it definitely depends a lot on how fast you ride and whether you rely on the throttle vs. lower levels of pedal assist. I dig that the battery is removable and also has a USB charging port. This means it power your portable electronic devices, whether it’s on or off the bike. You can easily charge it on or off the frame, and I’d suggest taking it off to reduce the weight of the bike if you’re going to put it on a car rack. The charger is a 5 ah charger, a step up from the normal 2 ah chargers I see on cheaper ebikes, and should help fill the massive 17.5 ah (or optional 21 ah) battery relatively quickly, but still expect 6+ hours. The first half of the battery will fill more quickly and then it will slow down in order to balance the cells.

Given the top speed of around 40 mph here, I was thankful that the Blade comes with massive 203 mm, quad-piston, hydraulic disc brakes. The stopping power on this bike is immense. I also dig the adjustable brake levers as I found that in their current position they crunched my fingers a bit when braking, so it’s cool I could let them out a little if I chose to. This is also something that could be fine tuned by a shop as you have the brakes bled and normalized. Having adjustable reach brake levers is also good for those riders with extra large or small hands, or when wearing gloves, which could be a good idea when riding fast on rough terrain or in cold conditions. Seriously, you might want to wear padding and a full face helmet here. The brakes also have built-in motor inhibitors which cut power to the drive system whenever the brake levers are depressed. I wasn’t able to actually test this aspect of the bike as Rob, one of FLX’s owners, had disconnected them. Still, I would imagine they work fine given that everything else on the bike worked as intended. To me, safety is always paramount, and having the motor inhibitors is a good feature to help ensure the rider isn’t fighting against the motor when braking. With a lot of electric bikes, it may not really be that big of a deal if the motor is still cranking out power while trying to brake, but with 1,350 watts of peak power and those 160 newton meters of torque, it’s definitely important here. The motor also cuts power when shifting gears thanks to the shift sensor. While this may not add a whole lot in the area of safety, it should prevent unnecessary strain on the components, which was a big concern of mine. And on that note, the SRAM EX1 trigger shifter and derailleur worked extremely well. The EX1 is designed specifically for e-bikes with a strong chain and sprockets, so it should be able to soak up extra stress compared to a normal setup. Shifting was incredibly crisp and quick with this system and the gear range is very wide with an 11 to 48 tooth spread. The jump between each sprocket is wider and the idea is that with motor assist, you don’t need as many gears, and those gears can be made from stronger heavier material. Normally on an electric mountain bike I would expect to see a 10 or 11 speed drivetrain but the 8 sprocket setup worked fine and is part of what boosts the price here. The EX1 is not cheap.

Another area worth mentioning here is the control center. I’m kind of a control center geek and I always love to see comprehensive stats while riding. The FLX branded Bafang control center on the Blade does just that. It displays pretty much everything, including current speed, top speed, average speed, range, battery level, pedal assist mode, wattage output and more. More importantly, I could read it in direct sunlight! The only downside to this display was that it’s not removable, so I might worry about it getting dinged up when the bike is being parked or transported and just taking more sun and rain damage over time. There’s less concern for scratches at the bike rack or theft because presumably, you wouldn’t be riding this in public places unless you live somewhere with no laws. On the plus side though, it does have the ability to enable a passcode, adding another layer of security to the bike which is a bigger deal if you have kids around or are just concerned about safety. I think of this thing as more of a motorcycle or car equivalent. If you damage property or hurt another person, you could be liable for operating an unregistered unlicensed vehicle. Please be safe!

The Blade is clearly designed to take a beating and deliver some spectacular performance with the purpose-built frame, good front suspension and overall build quality. One of my few gripes with the Blade however, is the hub spacing. With 100 mm in the front and 135 mm in the rear, I wonder if that’s going to be enough for some of the most extreme riders pushing this beast to its max. Wider hubs would allow for a stronger bracing angle and fatter tires that would absorb vibration and shock… which is a big deal considering there’s o rear suspension. Of course, this would add to the cost of the frame and accompanying components. Boost and plus sized tires are a newer trend and cost more. The hefty 15 mm thru axle in the front and a 12 mm thru axle in the rear are great and the 2.5″ wide tires do offer above average surface contact and traction. This was a seriously fun bike to test and I’d like to thank FLX and especially Rob for partnering with me on this review and for coming all the way out to California to hang out! As always, please post your questions and feedback below or connect with others in the FLX ebike forums.


  • Incredibly powerful and torquey Bafang Ultra motor with 1000 watt nominal output and 160 newton meters of torque makes climbing even the steepest hills possible, it also drives the bike to speeds upwards of 40 mph
  • Sram EX1 trigger shifters and derailleur are specifically designed for e-bikes and should be able to handle the power and torque coming out of the motor, they also shift incredibly smoothly and have built in shift sensors to cut power to the motor when shifting, preventing the components from enduring unnecessary strain
  • Massive 203 mm, quad piston, hydraulic disc brakes provide ample stopping power, which is extremely important for an electric bike like this that can reach speeds upwards of 40 mph
  • Locking Spank grips should ensure the grips stay in place even when tackling the most extreme trails,
    a nice little feature that in my opinion falls under the category of safety
  • Motor inhibitors cut power to the motor whenever the brakes are the levers are depressed, ensuring the rider isn’t fighting agains the motor when trying to stop, another great safety feature
  • Control center is easily visible even in direct sunlight and offers a plethora of information including current speed, max speed, average speed, battery level, range, pedal assist mode, wattage output and more
  • Rock Shox FS Pike RCT3 front suspension does a great job of soaking up hard hits and making for an overall pretty smooth ride, they also have lockout and rebound and compression adjust
  • Frame is designed from the ground up with extreme mountain biking in mind, has virtually no frame flex and offers tons of rigidity
  • Funn plastic platform pedals are extra wide and grippy and help keep my feet in place even when hitting extra bumpy terrain
  • Torque sensor starts and stops power very quickly and accurately, matching the power output against my own, this is great for trying to ride slowly over tricky terrain
  • Battery has above average capacity of 17.5 ah, and FLX also offer a 21 ah battery, battery is locking and removable and even has a USB port to charge accessories while it’s on or off the bike
  • Gearing is good for high speed thanks to the 11-48 teeth cassette in the rear and 44 teeth chainring up front, FLX also has larger chainrings for riders who want to hit even higher speeds
  • Custom CNC’d chain guard protects the chainring from damage and looks cool, frame-mounted chain guide and narrow-wide teeth setup on the chainring helps ensure the chain stays locked in place
  • Overall beastly looking bike and the Raw Metal color looks especially good


  • Normal hub spacing is underwhelming given the extremely high speeds the Blade can hit, having boost would be a good option to add even more strength and structural integrity as well be able to equip plus size tires
  • The optional 21 ah battery pack bulges out past the frame and could get in the way during pedaling, it also probably won’t look as clean as the flush 17.5 ah battery
  • Lack of full-suspension means riders only have the option of adding a seat post suspension, the hardtail setup also adds extra stress on the chain and motor
  • No kickstand included, and while riders can install an aftermarket one it appears it can only be mounted in the back
  • No fender bosses in the front so the only way to mount a fender is to find one that compression fits inside the stem, while FLX offers their own it could be difficult to find other aftermarket ones
  • Control center can’t be removed, leaving it vulnerable to theft and scratching when the Blade is left at a public bike rack
  • Only one frame size may limit the range of rider heights the Blade can accommodate
  • At $3,999 for the standard version and $4,269 for the Touring Edition, the Blade is definitely an expensive electric bike and might not offer the utility of around town commuting because of it’s unclassified power and performance


More FLX Reviews

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  • MODEL YEAR: 2018

An affordable high-speed electric road bike with efficient narrow tires, no suspension by default but FLX does offer a seat post upgrade along with optional fenders, rack, and lights for safer night riding. Three different colors to choose from: White Lightning, Carbon Black, and Gun Metal Gray, only…...

FLX Trail Review

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  • MODEL YEAR: 2018

A hardtail cross country style electric mountain bike with quiet Bafang Max Drive 350-watt mid-drive motor, adjustable top speed upwards of 35 mph position it for private property or OHV use only. Three different colors to choose from - White Lightning, Carbon Black, and Gun Metal Gray…...

2016 FLX Trail Review

  • MSRP: $2,199
  • MODEL YEAR: 2016

A mid drive, hardtail electric mountain bike with pedal assist and throttle mode, capable of higher top speeds with assist ~25 mph. Funded through Indiegogo in March 2016 at a discounted price, available to ship worldwide with…...

Roy Gustaveson
3 months ago

You mention in the review that because of its speed it is illegal to ride on the street. If you were to set the max speed at 20-28 mph would that make it street legal?

3 months ago

Hi Roy! My understanding is that ebikes are rated by their motor nominal output. Anything under 750 watts could qualify as Class 1, 2, or 3 in the US and then they are sorted out by max speed and pedal assist vs. throttle so that 1 and 2 go up to 20 mph and 3 can reach ~28 with pedal assist only. I doesn’t seem like there’s a lot of enforcement going on with electric bicycles… but that doesn’t mean that a lawyer wouldn’t dig into the exact details of your bike and use that in a lawsuit if something unfortunate happened. I tend to stay on the very safe side (this is Court writing this comment) whereas Brent really likes the high speed stuff and enjoys the off-road private use. I hardly ever ride on OHV trails and very frequently commute on city streets so I would not feel comfortable buying this bike for myself. I just wouldn’t want to bend the rules and thus, would not use it very much.


Post a Comment

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4 days ago

I am in Australia and looking for a bike with minimum 500w nominal output. Im tossing up between the FLX roadster or Smartmotion Catalyst, both I can get for about $3500 each

Problem is I cant test ride the Roadster so I am leaning toward the Catalyst.

If anyone can help me decide which bike to get I would be most appreciative. Or if you have any other suggestions for bikes that would also be great.

Im mainly interested in urban commute but if the bike could handle the odd trail that would be a bonus!

Thanks so much.

Nova Haibike
2 weeks ago

I assume you mean the Crosscurrent S and Roadster? Those look like pretty good bang-for-the-buck bikes to me. I notice the FLX only comes in one frame size, so unless you are "average" it may not fit you. Juiced is a much bigger company too, which might be important down the road with regards to warranty and support.

bob armani
2 weeks ago

jj25-I would be a little careful flx. There was someone that did a couple of videos on their bikes when new and 1 year later and he did not have a very impressive report regarding quality and durability. Juiced may be a better choice IMHO! Good Luck!

2 weeks ago

I reached out to a few of the bike brands and they reported them also I'm looking to buy my first ebike and not break the bank I narrowed it down to 2 juiced ccs or flx do you have any input

bob armani
1 month ago

Kurt-The Magnum Navigator on your list looks like a candidate and a good pick. At Interbike was listed at $2500.00 price point with a 500Watt mid-drive Dapu with a throttle. Sweet!

John from Connecticut
1 month ago

Hello Kurt in CT, ( And others )

If the 'CT' in your name is for Connecticut and you live in central CT, as I do, I strongly suggest you visit Bicycles East
located in Glastonbury.... https://bicycleseast.com/

I've purchased two e-bikes from Bicycles East, a Trek XM 700+ Commuter and a Powerfly 7 MTB and I absolutely
love both.

I realize the Trek Powerfly 7 is above $2,500 but they have others.
They carry Giant and Specialized e-Bikes as well. The folks at Bicycles East will not try to sell you, but rather offer info
and guide you through the process....Good folks and fantastic service and support which I have used.

Good luck,
John from CT

Kurt in CT
1 month ago

Hi folks, need your opinion please. I’ve been researching for several months and plan to pull the trigger the spring on my first E bike. I’m an older guy, and buying a bike for fun, recreation, trails, roads etc. Basically, trying to get some fun back in my life. So, I want a mountain bike. Not looking to build one from scratch, so looking to either buy online or from a retailer. Below are the criteria I’m looking for:

- Under $2500
- Mid Drive: it appears this is best for hills. I could be talked out of it though.
- Existence of a Throttle: I want this just for the fun of it
- Up to 50 mile range
- Stealth: I do not want to see the battery (much). I don’t know where this eBike thing is going, and I don’t want the authorities, other bikers, or anybody else to know what I’m riding
- Gears: at least 10, preferably 20: I plan to pedal a lot, so the gears matter
- Good instruments
- Reliability
- Serviceability: When it breaks, an easy way to fix it

So far the following two bikes I’m looking at are:

FLX - trail: looks decent, but, it’s online so serviceability could be an issue.

Magnum Navigator: a new bike for them, has all of above, great stealth, supposedly will be ready this spring.

Any others jump out at you? Anything I’m missing?

Thank you!

Sent from my iPhone

Kurt in CT
1 month ago

Hey guys, I've been researching for a while, will be buying soon for the spring. First bike. Thought I'd put this out there and get your thoughts. I'm buying for fun, recreation, trails, roads... So I want a mountain bike. Honestly, I am an older guy, and I really need some fun in my life. This is going to be it! Plan to do a lot of pedaling for exercise, so the gears matter. Here's what I'm thinking / looking for:

- not particularly interested in building my own bike from scratch. Will buy it online or from a bike shop.
- mid drive (seems to be the way to go... though I could be convinced otherwise)
- want a throttle option... for the fun of it
- gears: at least 10, prefer more
- range: up to 50 miles
- descent technology / graphic-visibility / metric tracking
- reliability / quality
- stealth ( this is big for me. I do not want to see the big fat battery sticking out. I don't quite know where this whole E bike business is going, and don't want other bikers, or the authorities, or the trail watchers to know what I am riding. So the more it's hidden the better).
- under $2500
- prefer to buy from a bike shop, where service can be counted on. But still considering buying online. (i'm really laboring over this one. Bike shops are limited to certain brands of course and there are certain online bikes that are pretty cool.)

So, given all factors above, here are my choices at the moment:

- Magnum Navigator: supposedly being released this spring. Mid-drive, drive with throttle, 20 gears, hidden battery. Would buy through local dealer.

- FLX Trail: mid Drive, powerful battery (17ah), 10 gears, decent design, though the battery is not totally hidden. Must buy online, so service is an issue.

That's it so far. What choices out there am I missing? Thanks a lot in advance!!

2 months ago

Court charges a modest fee plus travel expenses, though they have national distribution through Dick’s Sporting Goods so it ought not be too much trouble. The newer Genesis and Phantom models with the frame mounted batteries offer better weight distribution than the older rack mount design. The website has mentioned an upcoming mid-drive model with a torque sensor pedal assist for a while, which would be a change from the direct drive throttle Class 2 ebikes they’re known for, though if it’s using the Bafang max drive 350w $3k seems a bit expensive when compared with other ebikes with the same motor from Biktrix, M2S, Populo, FLX, etc.

2 months ago

IMO I think going forward anything over 750W will be more of niche or a DYI solution as most of those bikes are not street legal which I think leads to less sales. (I could be wrong).

That being said there is the FLX bike which Court just reviewed, but read up on the forum about them. They Hyper is "sold out" and with the RC there I am not hopeful those will come back in stock.

Mark Peralta
3 months ago

I think the easiest way (most user friendly) to use a mid drive is to pair it with automatic transmission like the nuvinci harmony (or H/SYNC in the Bosch). It is also the most efficient since it will always keep your cadence at the optimum window, thus extending your battery range. Another advantage is it automatically shifts down to the lowest gear (first gear equivalent) when stopping and then upshifts by itself when you regained speed (just like your typical car with automatic transmission).

The system is so easy to operate. you just set it and forget it. Even a novice can fully appreciate the joy of riding a bicycle.

However, the cost is prohibitive as an aftermarket product (in fact it's not even openly offered as an aftermarket, only the manual version is available in the stores). I inquired FLX if they can offer Nuvinci Harmony and they said it's too pricey and a little heavier compared to the traditional gear cluster.


These are the ebikes that I'm aware of in the US to offer the OEM nuvinci automatic transmission.

1. Corratec Lifebike (H/SYNC). This ebike is originally designed in partnership with "Dr. Ludwig V. Geiger who developed the LIFE concept, aimed at encouraging people who would not normally ride to improve their life style with exercise." The frame is designed to handle heavy riders to almost 350 pounds. (You can use german to english google translator.)
You can change the setting on the youtube below for english caption.


2. CUBE SUV Hybrid SL 27.5 (H/SYNC)


3. Piaggio Wi bike active plus (H/SYNC, 28 mph top speed).

It can also be applied as a fitness trainer using a smartphone app.

4. Evelo Galaxy ST & TT (programamble top speed, I think), it uses the H8 controller.


5. Tempo electric bikes, a company supposedly catered for the ladies, short people (lower seat tube), for seniors with limited flexibility, and also for the novice and the non-mechanically inclined riders. However, you'll be surprised to find premium quality parts in these ebikes. It uses the more simple H3 controller with 3 predetermined cadence settings (low, medium, & high).


There may be other models that I am not aware of.




7. eProdigy Logan (H8 controller)


Mike Nemeth
4 months ago

I thought I would start a new thread on the E-Glide Li-Ion battery. I mentioned "
The Lake Mead area has taken me to the extreme limits of what my E-Glide can do. I have run out of juice twice before getting back to my car. Your pretty much dead in the water going uphill without the electric assist. I sent a note to Dave at E-Glide about purchasing an additional battery and also his thoughts of making one with additional amperage. I found this site: http://www.reention.com/product/detail/66 and under specifications it looks like we have the 48V 11.6Ah version. Its possible to get a 48V 13.6 AH in the same model battery holder. That would give it about a 20% increase in range. I'll let you know what comes of that. Since this is my first E-bike I'm still learning. Some batteries go up to 17Ah but I dont know if it will fit our bike frame. The battery we have now has been plenty of power for 95% of my rides."

I found a company that makes a 48V 13.5Ah battery using the same case as our E-Glide battery. I'm assuming at this point it would just lock in like ours but have not contacted the company to verify on all the specifics.

Here is a link: https://lunacycle.com/flx48vbattery/

So for $550.00 plus shipping you would get a battery that will produce an additional 20% of the power of the original battery. Aprox 30% of the cost of the bike. Seems like a better option would be when the original battery has gone through it's life of charge cycles which I'm thinking about 1000 charges, you would have the option to upgrade your existing battery. And at that time there might be more options.

Nova Haibike
2 days ago

Thinner at both ends? That does not make sense. Butted spokes are always thicker at the ends. If it is a single butted spoke, it would be thicker at the head. If it is a double butted spoke it would be thick at the ends and thin in the middle. The only kind of spokes that are thicker in the middle are bladed spokes.

Nova Haibike
4 days ago

I wish someone would make a light where the light can be attached to the mount in any orientation. For example, what if I wanted to mount the light under the handlebar, or onto a fork blade? With the ordinary mount underneath the body of the light, it is not possible because the beam pattern would be upside down or sideways. The light you are designing looks nice enough, but in a marketplace of already hundreds of lights, what makes it different? What is the USP?

Nova Haibike
2 weeks ago

I personally do not like Slime, because when it does not work, the Slime gets all over everything making a mess. I recommend to people to carry both a spare tube and patch kit. Getting a flat is no fun, so I like to be back on the road ASAP. I prefer not dealing with patching; the patch kit is for the very unlucky second flat. I am also a fan of CO2 inflators. Yeah, I suppose they are less environmentally friendly, but again, I want to be riding, not huffing and puffing stroking a tiny pump a couple of hundred times. Some pro tips: carry the spare tube in a Ziploc bag and sprinkle some baby powder or corn starch in it. It makes installing the tube easier. Inflate the tube a bit to give it some shape, again to make it easier to install. Check the tire for embedded debris, both visually and by carefully running your fingers along the inside of the casing. Carry a small pocketknife; sometimes you need the tip of a blade to dig out a small thorn, bit of wire, etc. Make sure the rim strip or tape is fully intact and covering all the spoke heads or rim drillings. Lastly, a great number of flats can be prevented just by keeping the proper amount of pressure in the tires. A very high percentage of flats are due to under-inflation, so check the pressure often.

1 month ago

I am getting ready to mine off. You just need to carefully use a razor blade and make a lite cut, following the decal. Then hair dryer and remove. After sand with about 800-1000 grit sandpaper. I will start with the 1000 wet sand. Will post some pictures when done. I stopped at the body shop down the street, and those were his instructions, or he can do it for me. But if I take it to him, I am confident I'll paint it with some pearl on top of the white, then pinstripe it. Think I'll try my self first, lol. But it Has to GO!!

Thomas Jaszewski
2 months ago


2 months ago

Thomas, I thought I might have been overly critical of the blade contacts on the Hailong mount, but I see Cali-ebikes is selling conversion kits that change them to pins.

Dolphins are ugly, but tough. I've dropped one at 20 mph onto asphalt (from pannier bag, not in cradle) and it survived.

Thomas, maybe you can PM me with a price on a 48V 12AH Dolphin, 13S-4P. No rush. Future project.

3 months ago

There are four plugs.

From left to right:

1. Headlight
2. Intuvia controller
3. Brake light
4. Rear wheel speed sensor

Bikespeed intercepts the Intuvia controller plug and the rear wheel sensor.

One thing that I noticed during the install is hay bikespeed’s molded plugs sometimes don’t fully match the receptacle. The 3D printing or the connectors might be off by a fraction of a millimeter causing it to not seat fully. Use a sharp razor blade, xacto, or Dremel to modify.

Theodore Deffenbaugh
3 months ago

As an alternative, Jobst Brandt--the late author of the Bicycle Wheel--never believed in spoke washers because it didn't make sense to him, and nobody could explain how it worked in detail. Jobst was a mechanical engineer, trained at Stanford and worked for HP, that wrote what many believe is the best description of how to building a sturdy wheel.

So what causes this breakage at the elbow? The short hand version of why elbows are so tricky is that the manufacturing process sets up the bend of the spoke so it is near it yield limits. When metal is near it's yield limits, it has a short fatigue life. (Metal fatigue was not understood when people first discovered it. It is actually microscopic cracks, but because people could not see the cracks, they assumed it somehow got "fatigued.")

So how to fix this issue? You do "stress relieving" when the wheel is newly built. Stress relieving consists of taking a heavy set of gloves, and squeezing parallel spokes so hard that the elbows deform as the spoke go above it yield limits. Now the spoke is nicely deformed around the spoke hole, and the section that had been close to the yield point has been stressed further than its yield point and deformed. When you release the spoke, this deformed section cannot spring back, and the stress is lowered as the other parts of the spoke do spring back and take some of the load off the stressed section.

This is nothing new as the early European bicycle mechanics supporting pro racing had stumbled on this but didn't understand why it worked so well. Their preferred way of doing stress relieving was walking on the side of the wheel! This could work if the wheel builder had an idea of what they were doing, but it could also permanent warp the rim. Jobst said to just squeeze hard for multiple cycles (hard enough that you'd need a pair of thick leather gloves.) The wheel may go a little out of true, but not enough to permanent hurt the wheel, and easy to true back to shape. I've been building wheels for 30 years, and Jobst's ideas always worked well for me, except when I got lazy and ignored his input.

Jobst said that >90% of wheels made by machines and low hour wheel builders were not tight enough. Why is this important? Because when you start having spokes break, it is tempting to say, "I'll just removed the stress by untwisting the spokes." Unfortunately, the stress is not there from the wheel tension (normal ranges for a wheel spoke tension that is properly built is only 30% of it's yield strength), but the aforementioned manufacturing process. Lowering the tension in the wheel makes it worse because the spoke can now move more setting up more metal fatigue, which means that the rest of the spoke heads will crack even sooner. If the bike shop "lowered the tension" without measuring the spoke tension, I would worry that they don't understand how a wheel works, so they need to measure the tension. Wheelsmith made a great tension spoke meter, but I don't think it is around anymore. The standard tool now is the Park TM-1. However, Jobst could basically just tell by the sound and feel. Unless there was a run away at the wheel subcontractor, the solution is not to lower the tension, but to stress relieve.

Unless your an ME with some history in metallurgy and/or material science, this may seem counter-intuitive, and indeed Jobst spent many a post on usenet (look it up kids) trying to explain this. While I'm an electrical engineer by training, his ideas seemed to be backed by my core engineering studies on mechanics, although I'm not a ME. However, I noticed that nobody that had a mechanical engineering degree ever objected to him on Usenet, but he had a ton of objectors who did not have a degree. I'll leave it to the reader to figure out if he was right, and I have no desire to restart a bunch of debates on how a spoked wheel works. Something so simple seems to be easily misunderstood.

Regardless, reading the Bicycle Wheel, still available on Amazon, will give you a much more detailed description. The trick is to realize that the metal is not failing due to lack of strength, but due to metal fatigue. The best solution Jobst would have suggested is not to find a stronger spoke, but to set up an alignment where metal fatigue is not the primary driver of the failure. Tora could have his subcontractors for the wheels add a stress relieving step into their process, and might help the reliability of the wheel.

4 months ago

here is something interesting from the "Grin Technologies" knowledgebase website and also from my cycling knowledge based from the Eugene Sloan's cycling primer book "Complete Bicycling"; as one can readily see this is an easily solvable problem at least according to: http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/wheel-build.html:

Seating at Bend

A common reason for spokes to fail on electric hub motors isn't because the motor puts extra strain on the spokes, or because the spokes aren't a thick enough gauge, it's because of fatigue failure from spokes that aren't held snug against the flange. If the spoke bend radius is too large or too far from the head, then it can flex up and down at the bend with each wheel rotation, eventually causing it to crack and fail.

This problem has been legendary with overseas built hub motors, and we had some Crystalyte shipments where about half the customers would experience spoke breakage on a recurring basis. Ideally the distance between the head and the bend in your spoke will match the thickness of the hub flange, and you won't have problems.

But if not, there are basically two rather effective cost effective ways to address the presented given case study situation as mentioned previously:

One is to basically insert a simple washer under the spoke head which is probably the simplest cost effective method;

The second way is to also lace the wheel in an over/under pattern, such that the spoke tension compresses the bend part of the spoke into the flange;

now using both of the two above basic commonly known wheelbuilding techniques in combination will go a long way towards helping to ensure that one is not likely to introduce unnatural and/or unknown undesireable torsional twisting forces about the "J" Spoke Bend radius at the hub flange; that will eventually directly cause and introduce premature metal fatigue failure at the "J" Spoke Bend radius at ones hub flange.

I have personally read from the excellent and comprehensive Sheldon Brown encyclopedic bicycle primer on everything about cycling must read "everything on cycling" primer, which includes "wheelbuilding" and according to him a properly hand built bicycle wheel built by an trained and experienced skilled wheelsmith's should easily be able to survive a direct crash into the back bumper of a car at twelve miles per hour(but not to exceed 12mpth); the resulting effects of that crash would "in fact" cause the bicycle fork to be bent and likely cause the immediate structural failure of the fork blade assembly itself;

but the properly expertly built bicycle wheel by the skilled wheelsmith builder will not only be able to survive but it will only be slightly bent but probably likely repairable with just "truing up the wheel"; that is the value of having a bicycle wheel built by a properly trained skilled wheelsmith with just standard rather ordinary average quality "DT Swiss Spokes" and just standard rather ordinary average quality double wall aluminum alloy "Alex Rims 700C sized rims"; so long as one follows the basic skills and principles used in typical wheelbuilding by skilled trained bicycle wheel wheel builders.


4 months ago

[QUOhttps://http://www.radpowerbikes.com/products/radrover-electric-fat-bike?variant=1121017969TE="Rooster, post: 120185, member: 15666"]Yes but this ocean current already has vee tire co. Speedster 2.80x26 fat tires and looks the roll[/QUOTE]

I actually got the idea from watching youtube video's of actual e-bike product demonstrations that featured bikes with both front and rear wheel electric hub motor drives; now with both front and rear wheel electric hub motor drives engaged with the ground all the time one can actually ride on the beach even thru dry and/or wet sand without getting potentially stuck; while at the same time being also able to go directly thru muddy trails without getting potentially stuck; to be able to actually have a powered e-bike that is actually capable of powering as if one had the equivalent of all terrain 4wd for a bicycle is something that can be realized with a relatively modest additional investment in ones existing e-bike purchase;

for example consider the Radrover E-Bike Fat Tire Bike for $1499(link below); just imagine the actual potential possibilities of having an all terrain 4wd fat tire E-Bike with a powered front wheel electric hub motor drive; yes one can go on amazon and literally add a 750 watt powered front wheel electric hub motor for a relatively modest e-bike upgrade cost; that would give even the Juiced Bikes Hyperfat E-Bike that is currently still in product development; some rather serious no nonsense E-Bike fat tire ultra performance potential market competition at a very competitive price point offering to boot easily under $2,000;

which is still a very easy modest doable post purchase e-biker end user upgrade project that can actually be purchased right now as we speak(all component parts needed); and yes it would be a turbocharged version of Juiced Bikes Hyperfat with 500 watts in your case combined with 750 watts from front powered front wheel electric hub motor drive; for a combined 1250 watts or 1.25Kw of pure 4wd turbocharged performance one could literally in fact go up a truly massive 25 degree hilly incline if actually needed or if the need ever potentially arose; heck I might just go looking for a 25 degree incline to actually see how it does performance wise to witness and experience the e-bike performance wow factor before and after the turbocharging of the Hyperfat Ebike;

now one of course might have to contact Court and have him do a performance test evaluation review of ones end user post purchase modified E-Bike whether its a CCS, OceanCurrent, or even a custom modified RadRover E-Bike; especially if one also added a Cycling Analyst 3.0(by Grin Technologies) to actually control and customize the end user actual output power levels going to the motor controller that would be delivering the actual adjustable variable output power to the front wheel electric hub motor drive; all to deliver a end user totally customizable 4wd turbocharged surrealistic terra firma ground gripping engaging 4wd E-Biking experience;

as that is truly something that may not have been done before or be directly customized and/or adjusted by the end user in "real time" on the fly; one could for example easily adjust for more or less desired end user target objective needed customized power going to the forward front wheel electric hub motor drive in relative comparison to the actual power going to the rear wheel electric hub motor drive; now the end user might be able to actually go into the Cycling Analyst and set up a custom power level preset to deliver an end user defined custom output power level going to the motor controller that would be effectively delivering and transferring a certain amount of end user pre-defined usable output power to the front wheel on demand.

One can literally turn it into a super cool urban assault commuter bike; by swapping out the default tires for the higher end Kenda Juggernaut Fat Bike tires; just imagine for a moment riding up intense mountain trails being a breeze to pedal and having the time of ones lives cycling enjoying the great outdoors e-biking; now the dual forward and rear electric hub motor pedal assist experience would be nothing short of amazing to realize in real life; by being able to take on mountain trails terrain with the kind of aggressive dual traction being provided from both ones electric powered wheels that one really needs on typical mountain trails;

one can literally be suddenly able to selectively carefully climb and pick ones way through potential sand, snow, loose rock, loose gravel, grass, rough fields and even climb some steep boulders also as well; for at least 25 miles to 30 miles and for about at least 3 to 3.5 hours time worry free with a decent generously sized lithium ion battery pack; now this dual purpose urban and mountain trails assault e-bike would be an absolute blast to experience riding indeed and one could definitely see how much fun it could actually be to get out on some rather grueling mountain trails that I have hiked on before previously to look forward revisiting once again using this very powerful e-biking mountain trail touring tool;

now the Easy Motion Evo Big Bud Pro has the dual wheel electric hub motor setup for $3,600; with 350 watts for the rear wheel electric hub motor and 250 watts for the front wheel electric hub motor; while the Rad Rover has its fat e-biking setup for $1,500; the Rad rover has a 750 watts for the rear wheel electric hub motor and one can rather easily as another add on optional front wheel driven 750 watts for the front wheel electric hub; for a total potential combined total power output of up to 1,500 watts in 4wd mode if needed;

so for the Rad Rover fat bike setup for $1,500 that comes with its included 750 watts rear wheel electric hub motor and let's say about $300 conservatively for the option to add the 750 watt front wheel electric hub motor from Amazon along with a Cycling Analyst 3.0; and even adding $500 for another 11.4 lithium ion battery pack mounted to a front rack mount; that is still only about $2,300 in total costs as compared to the $3,600 Easy Motion Evo Big Bud Pro; that is still a major savings in cost of just over $1,300;

now the other major thing to consider of course is the Easy Motion Evo Big Bud Pro for $3,600 is only 600 watts total combined power output for both the front and rear electric hub drive motors; while the Rad Rover fat bike setup has for just about $2,300 only has just over 1,500 watts total continuous combined power output for both the front and rear electric hub drive motors and that is not even considering what the total peak power output might actually turn out to be;

now guys the actual total cost for the modified dual drive all wheel drive customized fat e-bike setup for the Rad Rover is only $2,300(as described previously above); while still able to deliver at least 1,500 watts of total potential continuous output power to ones dual wheels on the ground thru its dual all wheel drive fat e-bike specific top quality Kenda Juggernaut tires; now with the customized fat e-bike setup described Rad Rover described above that is actually just a bit over two and a half times the total combined power output of the Easy Motion Evo Big Bud Pro dual drive all wheel drive fat e-bike setup and yet it still somehow manages to cost basically still somehow less than $1,300; holy cow that is basically a "steal of a deal";

now that is definitely a fat e-bike project that is practically basically begging to be built just for the upgrade performance cost in parts in terms relative to the cost of the basic core $1,500(about 1.5x) Rad Rover fat e-bike itself versus about 2.4x the cost of a core Rad Rover $1,500 fat e-bike; for the Easy Motion Evo Big Bud Pro turn key fat e-bike configuration; while it basically costs just about only $800 additional to performance upgrade ones Rad Rover fat e-bike with some additional upgrade parts($300 for the 750 watt front wheel hub electric motor drive and $500 for the second lithium ion battery pack); and we are not even talking about the potential doubling of the power that the Rad Rover is going to be definitely experiencing going from 750 watts on the rear wheel electric drive hub motor to another 750 watts on the front wheel drive hub motor; for heavens sake, that is another whole additional 900 watts of pure total watts of potential unmitigated continuous output power that can be potentially applied "in real life" to ones dual wheel Rad Rover fat e-bike tires and any terra firma that may yet lay beneath them to be explored on mountain trails and the like hopefully;

and yet another point for potential contention and mutual consideration; exactly how many dual wheel all wheel drive capable fat tire e-bike configuartion does one know of; that can actually provide 1,500 watts of total combined output power thru its massive dual fat e-bike tires for not more than $2,300? Tora Harris(founder of Juiced Bikes) eat your heart out we just may have in fact just taken out his very own Hyperfat fat tire e-bike still in actual product development currently having ongoing problems still trying to be developed and built successfully in their asian chinese factories; and their is a very strong distinct chance and actual "real world reality" probability possibility that this dual wheel all wheel drive customized Rad Rover fat tire e-bike design can easily beat not only the Hyperfat fat tire e-bike and but also perhaps even the original "all wheel drive" flagship design by Easy Motion Evo Big Bud Pro($3,600) quite badly on a performance specification wise basis at least also as well; and one can actually build it actually right now without any further waiting and also build it at a significant anticipated project cost savings over the projected cost of the actual HyperFat fat tire e-bike when it does actually come out and easily beat the cost of the Easy Motion Evo Big Bud Pro($3,600) also quite handily by a huge cost factor and absolutely ridiculous cost savings margin; at the same time also as well.


One horsepower equals 745.7 watts; 1,500 watts divided by 745.7 watts equals 2.01 horsepower; and guys that is only the defined rated continuous output power; as the actual peak output power is actually not 750 watts but actually 1095 watts maximum peak output power; or

1095 watts peak maximum output power times two wheels equals 2,190 watts peak maximum output power; 2190 watts divided by 745.7 watts equals 2.94hp actual total maximum peak output power in terms of rated equivalent horsepower; holy cow guys that is almost 3 horsepower peak total maximum power output in terms of rated equivalent horsepower; that would seem like more than enough to potentially beat the HyperFat fat tire e-bike at least on a paper technical specification basis; for not much more money to boot also as well(no brainer-build it and find out; no worries Cycling Analyst 3.0(Grin Technologies-they also actually sell pairs of massively heavily reinforced hardened steel(think lawn mower blade hardened reinforced tempered steel) torque arms for ones front fork-cannot be to safe they say its actually true in real life) will confirm ones actual power output is all genuine, authentic and real for "real world" confirmation and proof of actual power output in terms of maximum continuous power and maximum peak power total actual power output figures-so their will be no doubt at all if one actually somehow beats the HyperFat fat tire e-bike and/or the Easy Motion Evo Big Bud Pro fat tire e-bike; then one can go on youtube and actually go viral after proving one has beat any of the other fat tire e-bike potential competition hopefully and then go on to hopefully even extensively document this do it yourself (DIY) fat tire e-bike upgrade project on Youtube to also enable other potential hardcore fellow fat tire e-bikers to be able to put their very own custom dual wheel all wheel drive fat tire e-bike together for themselves also as well); now this fat tire e-bike would also make for the ultimate all terrain vehicle snow bike(with both ice and snow hardened steel studded equipped fat bike tires-same kind they use on bmx enduro downhill motocross snow racing tires) thanks to its highly variable customizable adjustable power output dual wheel all wheel drive fat tire e-bike drive power transmission system;

yes guys one can actually do a do-it-yourself(DIY) Rad Rover end user customized fat tire e-bike build for just about $2,300 that will definitely result in at least 1,500 watt or at least two horsepower of total potential continuous output power(2.94hp actual total maximum peak output power in terms of rated equivalent horsepower-see above actual derived calculation) being directly applied to ones dual wheels on the ground thru its dual all wheel drive fat e-bike specific top quality Kenda Juggernaut tires; now if that is actually worth $2,300 to any hard core fat tire e-biking individuals out their; please report back if anyone has built anything remotely like this previously in the past or even considering also building something along the lines of a dual wheel all wheel drive fat tire e-bike as previously extensively described and discussed above.

P.S. to Andy in Ca; it need not be a lithium ion battery pack hog; that is what the Cycling Analyst 3.0 is for; as it is being used as a programmable cycling computer, where it can supposedly set up a end user defined customized power output profile to drive ones front wheel electric hub motor drive; so one can very precisely and accurately dial in the exact end user defined power output going to the motor controller that is driving the front wheel electric hub drive motor; and yes it can actually be both varied and also adjusted on the fly in "real time" to fit ones "real world" and "real time" conditions on an as needed "user defined on demand" basis; naturally of course one can also do the same with setting up another Cycling Analyst 3.0 programmable cycling computer to also actually customize and control the actual amount of power going to the motor controller for the rear wheel electric hub drive motor also as well similar to what is going to be done in conjunction with the front wheel electric hub drive motor; also Andy the Cycling Analyst 3.0 can also if needed to conserve both power and range on ones lithium ion battery pack if needed by also being able to put a optimal end user defined maximum speed velocity threshold cutoff value if actually needed and/or also be able to additionally put a optimal end user defined maximum current threshold cutoff value if also actually needed and/or necessary to still make it to home base without potentially running out of critical potential needed power on ones lithium ion battery pack also as well in an potential unexpected emergency for example of course.

6 months ago

The only one I know so far is the FLX Blade

Luna has announced the Apex, but has not provided recent news

Bona Fide
6 months ago

After several attempts of different methods, I finally got it done today. All you need is a 24 x 3 inch schrader valve tube (I got mine on Ebay) and 8 oz bottle of Orange Seal. (and ratchet strap to help tire be inflated)

Remove tire and existing tube, install 24 inch tube on rim and pump up so it is centered and seam is along the top.

Now use blade to start and scissors to cut around the top seam so it will open up and lay across the rim.

Clean off all the white powder.

Install tire back on, little trick getting the tube pulled back out as tire goes on.

Use a bit of soapy water or windex around tire to help it set the bead

Use a ratchet strap around the tire to make a tighter fit so it can be inflated with a regular tire pump.

Loosen ratchet strap as tire starts inflating.

If all went well, remove valve core, add half bottle (4 oz) of Orange seal (I has to use a smaller hose inside Orange Seal filler hose). Reinstall ratchet strap to aid in inflating again.

Shake tire back and forth and around to get sealer to fill and air leaks, go for a quick ride.

Use scissors to cut tube excess along the rim.

Chad Walker
4 weeks ago

Great job on your review! I’m very interested in this bike and wonder if you think the price is justified with all the quality components and power of the latest Bafang motor? Thank you for any information or advice you can provide! This would be a huge purchase for me for a play bike, lol.

Mike Ski
2 months ago

Hi Brent I got my blade couple weeks ago I have a quick question for you because I contacted them and they kept giving me the runaround I’m inquiring about the rock shox fc rct3 fork it says 160 mm travel and a 2-position compression adjustment , lockout , rebound adjustment OK looking down at the fork on the right side is the rebound adjustment on the bottom and the lockout on top on the left side is just the air valve watching other videos on you tube about this fork there’s a 2 compression air spring adjustment on the air side so what I’m trying to say is then how do you used the 2 position adjustment ??? on this fork when there is none or am I missing something here !!! or did they rip me off with a cheap fork ? But It is a very nice bike super fast !!! Thank's " https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l-pjdC-uOZg "

Konstantin Lazarov
2 months ago

There is no inovation as FLX simply copied the full suspensuion Frey AM1000 and saving money to produce it hard tailed selling it to the US and the world. Price difference is at least $1000 in Frey’s favour. Weight is the same, components same high quality, although Frey even has got dual suspension.
Please see this link then make your opunion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AExCcTGF2w&sns=em
EBR it will be completely fair to review the original “Blade” - Frey AM1000 althogh their managing director isn’t your friend. Simply because its fair to your viewers. I would call FLX scam wrapped nicely and EBR please don’t get involved. Fray is poorly advertised in the USA But deserve the attention and you owe it to your followers.
I missed to add ridiculous customer service for FLX, complete disgrace....

David Witkowski
2 months ago

Which trails did you use to film the drone segment?

James Choate
2 months ago

I’ve been waiting for the FLX reviews ever since the preproduction overview you guys did. Thank you so much for getting to them. Great job. I would like to see the roadster even though I think it’s essentially the same as the trail just with road tires.

Kit Babcock
2 months ago


Gee....if you shop, only $2,980 (Gen 3) on Alibaba or direct from China. Not sure if only "one" is available @ this price?!?

Jae C.
2 weeks ago

Hardtail is ok for the price if you live in the USA. Im out in canada, I would have to pay 13% tariff (8712.00.00 - for complete bikes not assembled in NAFTA countrys), + 13% HST tax. I might as well get a custom FULL suspension from china for the same price! It really blows FLX does not ship from canada

2 months ago

Greg Bauknight, the rear raising up phenomenon also used to happen on motorcycles with a shaft drive, until manufacturers came out with a way to counteract it.

David Witkowski
2 months ago

40 kilos? That's a beefy bike.

Greg Bauknight
2 months ago

I saw a thread somewhere where the buyer of this bike said when you applied throttle the back of the bike raised up. this is poor design engineering and not what you would expect at this price point. Also the shipping is like 600 bucks. Even if the bike is similar to FLX, at least they had the sense to make it a hard tail to handle the torque and also provide free shipping. The shipping price from Frey kills any financial incentive to try your luck on alibaba, not to mention the added weight the rear suspension adds to this already bloated bike. Nope, the hard tail is a way better idea, coupled with quality post suspension.

2 months ago

That's a nice looking bike, thanks for sharing Kit! I'm a fan of the full suspension setup

ragingbullwinkle Rocky
2 months ago

I have a Gen two trail with a 17ah battery and like it very much. Down side was waiting almost six months for it. IF you order from these people make SURE the bike is in the states. If you do not get a tracking number in two three days get a refund. Next HOPE you do not have an issue. My controller will show <5% left in the battery but still have 2 bars on the battery itself. I have sent videos of both and FLX just keeps asking for more. Once the controler gets down to 1% your pretty much tost even though the battery still has 35-45% charge left. If you do buy this Blade keep it out of the parks a trails PLEASE. So far no one has blinked at my trail and I have even stopped and talked to park rangers and no one has said a thing. I see a hand full of ass holes on blades wrecking what fremdom we have now. The Blade is not an E-Bike and should stay on private property. Thanks in advance for not being a dick.

ragingbullwinkle Rocky
2 months ago

That's great enjoy.

2 months ago

ragingbullwinkle Rocky FLX quoted me a wait time without any deception so I happily preordered and they provided terrific tracking info thus far all the way from China.

3 months ago

This bike is NUTS!
This is a true E Bike! None of this 25mph max speed shiz... I'm finding all these other bikes that are around 3k still can't compete with my simple electric skateboard.. shouldn't all E bikes be able to hit speeds like this one? They have gears as well as pedal assistance and massive wheels! Why do they all seem so pathetic and overpriced? My boardis faster than all these expensive bikes (except this one) at the squeeze of a trigger, no peddling, no gears, small wheels and half the price. What am I missing? Or what are the companies missing?
FLX seems like they are getting close to making proper use of the technology available these days.. but still, that's a big price tag.
On the topic of FLX, can you review their previous models? That'd be swell 👌👌👌

Steve Aldebaran
3 months ago

To expensinve and it is not high quality! Over price! Build your own!

Jae C.
2 weeks ago

Its really not overpriced if you live in the USA. Ive priced out each component seperately. FLX is cheaper. Once you export the bike, you are subjected to tariff 8712.00.00, and dollar conversions making it NOT worth it. Espescially since its NOT full suspension. Imagine doing 50km+ on a hardtail in a MTB trail. lol

3 months ago

Steve Aldebaran you can also build a car for cheaper than buying one new .. doesn’t mean everyone wants to or has the skill / time

F r e e l e e
3 months ago

It seems like Bafang could very well take over the motor market for ebikes pretty soon. Their BBS02 and BBSHD mid drive motors both destroy the Bosch and Yamaha mid drives that I tested. You can do 32-35mph on the BBSHD and the 120nm is much more powerful up hills than the others. I am very impressed with their progress and now with the ultra motor that Luna Cycles is now offering, I can see a lot of DIY people hot rodding it to new heights.
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3 months ago

when will you review the sur-ron ebike...thanks..

3 months ago

They have a few videos on youtube and Luna Cycles offers them right now.

3 months ago

Hmm, I haven't heard of them, will keep an eye out though!

3 months ago

Been researching FLX for some time. They had issues when they started in 2016 like any new startup. They have seemed to refine their product and customer service and continue to improve. A FLX rider / owner forum seems to be full of happy riders who have had issues at times ( mostly with early gen bikes ) that get resolved by the company. Can’t wait to ride a blade soon.

3 months ago

Brent McCluskey — Electrified Reviews I actually have a blade preordered and on its way and def plan on providing feedback !
Loved your review on the works electric scooters btw, I was torn between one of those beasts and the blade.

Brent McCluskey — Electrified Reviews
3 months ago

If you end up getting one of their bikes I'd be interested to hear your feedback. Thanks for the comment!

3 months ago

ElectricBikeReview.com ride FLX on Facebook has a lot of FLX owners 👍

3 months ago

Great feedback, the guys who run this company seem very enthusiastic and sporty. I've got an FLX section in the EBR forums but there isn't as much activity there, we leave it very open so there could be more critical feedback there or you could get other perspectives if you wanted: https://electricbikereview.com/forum/forums/flx/ there just isn't much conversation happening there yet

Luke Johnson
3 months ago

Hey, I was wondering if the battery percentage on the display mean how much battery is left on the actual motor battery or the battery for the display.

Luke Johnson
3 months ago


3 months ago

Hi Luke! I believe the battery readout on the display is communicating how full the primary battery is (that powers the display, the motor, and the optional lights). I believe there is only one battery on this electric bike.

Rejean Paquet
3 months ago

Thanks for reviewing the FLX Blade, an amazing bike, it's a big investment, I want one, so I will wait a few months like spring time, I will keep an eye on reviews and other videos from FLX. I also like the HyperFAT BIKE from Juiced Bikes.

Martin Schmidt
3 months ago

Rejean Paquet haibike is a good choice. Not Sure if you can get a fully in your price range from them but your needs are more road bike. Bulls, Focus are also good companys. I prefere the Bosch mid drive.

Rejean Paquet
3 months ago

Martin Schmidt any suggestion? Haibike? Giant? $3500 range. 60%road/40%off-road

3 months ago

Hey Rejean! I'd love to check out the HyperFAT too, should be hooking up with Juiced later this year :D

Martin Schmidt
3 months ago

Rejean Paquet i would spend this much money on another bike from an known bike Company. Warranty and Service are important.

Gary Bryan
3 months ago

I agree with you, I too like the finish. Thanks for a great review.

3 months ago

Thanks for the positive feedback Gary!

Brent McCluskey — Electrified Reviews
3 months ago

Gary Bryan Thanks, Gary! Glad you enjoyed it.

3 months ago

You'll enjoy rapidly worn chainrings and cogs. Along with broken chains with this bike.

F r e e l e e
3 months ago


3 months ago

That motor has a Max torque of 160 N.m. There's a reason why the other mid drives are rated to 75 M. m. They're limited to what current bike drive trains can handle.

3 months ago

That's what crossed my mind... it appears that their shift detection is working well, but all that force is bound to strain the components

Brent McCluskey — Electrified Reviews
3 months ago

stratostear Is this something you’ve experienced? I’d be interested to hear what happened with your model and if you found out any solutions.

benzoesan sodu
3 months ago

This is rebranded Frey ebike which you can buy directly from Alibaba for about 2k. Recipe for bussiness? Buy from China and made your own logo ;) Want this bike cheaper almost 2 times? Just write in Alibaba: "48V 1000W Bafang mid drive electric mountain".

Konstantin Lazarov
2 months ago

Well done, completely agreee please see this:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AExCcTGF2w&sns=em

Jason Hoo
2 months ago

Richard, not true. I got a bike from Alibaba too. Same Magura & EX1 system, however with more upgrade. Including back rack, integrated cable ready for F/R right with USB adapter. 36 Stainless steel spook 13 gauge. Red anodize F/R hub, horse shoe lock, kick stand, beautiful paint red strip on frame. Cost around $2.6K. Excluding Freight shipment that was pretty expensive. As for Frey it is dual suspension, only difference is they use Shimano 11 speed instead of EX1 system. Observation from https://endless-sphere.com/forums/index.php?sid=1ef240d5290124684f65ba6178dea7ca there customer service is top notch. FYI, I was FLX customer too.. for their G! models.

Daniel Jarquio
2 months ago

Magura brake levers, Rock Shox hydraulic 203 mm disc brakes, SRAM EX1 groupset are not cheap parts.

Ddr Hazy
3 months ago

I can buy a bike from bikesdirect.com for $1k that would be similar in performance and attach a BBSHD + 700kW battery for another $1.3k. Tell me again why this bike is $4k?

Richard Lester
3 months ago

I'm afraid that's just not true, the frame is designed and made by FLX, all the components are top end mountain biking parts. The only thing in common between the blade and the frey is it has a bafang motor and two wheels. Completely different machines.

James Mason
3 months ago

40 mph I would get in trouble if I owned this bike

3 months ago

Yeah... or maybe you could outrun trouble?! It looks fun, but perhaps painful, on those service roads in the video

Brent McCluskey — Electrified Reviews
3 months ago

James Mason Haha. Exactly!

Steve Petttyjohn
3 months ago

"This bike is ridiculous" Yes it is, and over 350 watt motors is why ebikes will be completely banned from all trails.

Steve Petttyjohn
2 weeks ago

@Jae C: I was using the parlance of the presenter and agreed that that bike was ridiculous in it's power and speed for an ebike - thus the danger in the use of these ebikes getting trails banned for emtbs. Not a hater at all, quite the contrary in that between the wife and I we have 5 ebikes including two full suspension Haibike & Bulls emtbs.

Jae C.
2 weeks ago

I disagree. FLX is the wave of the future. Not everyone is physically capable of torquing thru MTB trails and paths. If you are hating on these bikes because you cant afford one, sucks for you. These bikes are levelling the playing field for everyone... Too bad they dont ship from canada, we have to pay 13% duty + 13% tax (26%) making the bike not worth it.

Ian Mangham
3 months ago

Steve Petttyjohn Never been ridiculous, it's not for snowflakes but it's far from RIDICULOUS lmmfao

3 months ago

Yeah, I've slapped a warning on the written review and coached Brent a lot about how this isn't really a moped or motorcycle or ebike. I wish he would have been a bit more toned down and explained the surrounding legislation, but he did provide a basic warning. This review does not constitute an endorsement of the product, but for people with private property it could be a fun toy

Michael Sprinzeles
3 months ago

Not quite a fair review...the motor can be ordered limited to 750 watts and the rider not the power determines the danger level. If power determined danger levels super cars would not be road legal. I have a BBSHD kit which achieves similar speeds & power yet I rarely exceed 20 mph and my average right now reads 4 mph. It's also unfair to categorize the FLX as outside the e-bike realm for having a throttle. Having a throttle does not force the rider to use it! Other than testing the top speed I have never used my throttle.
I would like to give props to FLX for using the EX1 cassette which (IMO) will change the e-bike world. I killed my 8 speed cassette putting that much power to it and researched heavily before replacing it with a steel wide ratio 10 speed. The EX1 was too expensive for me at the time but it has great specs for an e-bike.

3 months ago

Great feedback Michael, I like the EX1 as well and am excited to see how many higher-end models start using it and how it holds up

Brent McCluskey — Electrified Reviews
3 months ago

Michael Sprinzeles That’s a good point. You can also use the control center to limit top speed as well if you wanted.