Haibike SDURO ALLMTN RC Review

Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Electric Bike Review
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Yamaha 500 Watt Ebike Motor
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Yamaha Lithium Ion Ebike Battery
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Yamaha Removable Ebike Lcd Console
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Yamaha Ebike Button Pad
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Rochshox Remote Lockout
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Rockshox Sektor Gold Solo Air 150 Mm Travel
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Rockshox Monarch Rt Rear Suspension
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Xlc Pro Seat Post Dropper
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc 11 36t Cassette
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Quick Release Taurus Wheelset
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Side Slide In Battery Pack
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Yamaha Motor Skid Plate
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Yamaha Ebike Battery Charger Big
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Ebike
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Electric Bike Review
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Yamaha 500 Watt Ebike Motor
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Yamaha Lithium Ion Ebike Battery
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Yamaha Removable Ebike Lcd Console
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Yamaha Ebike Button Pad
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Rochshox Remote Lockout
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Rockshox Sektor Gold Solo Air 150 Mm Travel
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Rockshox Monarch Rt Rear Suspension
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Xlc Pro Seat Post Dropper
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc 11 36t Cassette
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Quick Release Taurus Wheelset
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Side Slide In Battery Pack
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Yamaha Motor Skid Plate
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Yamaha Ebike Battery Charger Big
Haibike Sduro Allmtn Rc Ebike


  • An all mountain trail + downhill mid drive powered electric bike with 150 mm air suspension, rigid thru axles (15 mm front 142 x 12 mm rear)
  • Impressive 20 speed drivetrain with quality Shimano Deore XT groupset, capable Shimano M615 hydraulic disc brakes (203 mm front 180 mm rear)
  • Ebike specific frame with internally routed cables and wires, custom motor interface and downtube side-slide battery keeps weight low and center for balance
  • No shift sensing with the Yamaha drive system but it relies more on torque so easing off while pedaling reduces mashing, large heavier charging unit

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Video Review

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Body Position:


Suggested Use:

Trail, Mountain

Electric Bike Class:

Pedal Assist (Class 1)
Learn more about Ebike classes


2 Year Motor and Battery, 5 Year Frame


United States, Europe

Model Year:


Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

51.5 lbs (23.35 kg)

Battery Weight:

6.5 lbs (2.94 kg)

Motor Weight:

7.6 lbs (3.44 kg)

Frame Material:

Hydroformed Aluminum Alloy 6061

Frame Sizes:

15.75 in (40 cm)17.32 in (43.99 cm)18.9 in (48 cm)20.47 in (51.99 cm)

Frame Types:


Frame Colors:

Matte Black with Blue and Yellow Accents

Frame Fork Details:

RockShox Sektor Gold Solo Air Suspension with Rebound Adjust, Remote Lockout and 150 mm Travel, 15 mm Thru Axle

Frame Rear Details:

RockShox Monarch RT Air Shock with Rebound Clicker, 142 / 12 mm Thru Axle

Gearing Details:

20 Speed 2x10 Shimano Deore XT , 11-36T

Shifter Details:

Shimano Deore triggers on Left and Right


FSA CK-745 Cranks, FSA X-10 Chainring, 42T


XLC Freeride, Plastic Platform with Alloy Pins


FSA No. 57, A-Head, Semi-Integrated, Tapered


Xduro Aluminium, A-Head


Sduro Lowriser Aluminium

Brake Details:

Shimano M615 Hydraulic Disc with 203 mm Front and 180 mm Rear Rotors, Shimano M615 Levers


XLC Ergo Sport, Rubber, Lock On


Selle Royal Sirio

Seat Post:

XLC Pro, Remote Drop, Aluminum Alloy

Seat Post Length:

300 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

31.6 mm


Taurus, 584 x 21c, Alloy-Double Wall


Sapim Leader, Stainless Steel 14G, Black

Tire Brand:

Schwalbe Nobby Nic Performance, 27.5" x 2.36"

Wheel Sizes:

27.5 in (69.85cm)

Tire Details:


Tube Details:



Locking Removable Battery Pack, Quick Release Wheels and Seat Tube, Cable Inlets, Replaceable Plastic Skid Plate, Gravity Casting Motor Mount Interface with CNC Milled Connection and Bearing Seat Points, Zero Cadence Assist

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:


Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Geared Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

250 watts

Motor Peak Output:

500 watts

Motor Torque:

80 Newton meters

Battery Brand:


Battery Voltage:

36 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

11 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

396 wh

Battery Chemistry:


Charge Time:

4.5 hours

Estimated Min Range:

25 miles (40 km)

Estimated Max Range:

60 miles (97 km)

Display Type:

Removable, Backlit LCD Console


Trip Distance, Total Distance, Current Time, Trip Time, Maximum Speed, Average Speed, Current Speed, Charge Level (10 Bars), Range, Cadence, Assist Level (Off, Eco+, Eco, Std, High)

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pad

Drive Mode:

Advanced Pedal Assist (Cadence and Torque, Eco+: 50%, Eco: 100%, Std: 180%, High: 280%)

Top Speed:

20 mph (32 kph)

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Written Review

The ALLMTN group is one of my favorite SDURO (Yamaha powered) electric bike lines from Haibike. It comes in four trim levels with varying levels of component groupsets and I tested the RC which is one step up from the bottom, priced at $4,299. That’s $600 more than the entry level SL model and the biggest difference is a 20 speed drivetrain vs. just 10 on the SL. For my ride test I climbed a very steep dirt path and those extra gears really came in handy. I wasn’t sure how shifting would perform because the Yamaha system does not offer shift detection the way that the more expensive XDURO (Bosch powered) Haibikes do. What I’ve found during my ride tests is that Yamaha relies more on torque and seems to have a shorter range of RPM which results in less mashing if you ease off while shifting but requires more shifting to happen in order to really leverage the motor’s power.

Driving this ebike is a 250 watt nominal… 500 watt peak internally geared motor that is custom mounted to the area of the frame normally reserved for the bottom bracket tube. Haibike touts their Aluminum frames as being hydroformed with a gravity cast interface at the motor mount. Basically, it looks beautiful, is strong and saves weight. What you get out is up to 80 Newton meters of torque… which is a lot for a production electric bike that follows US law for classification as a Class 1 model (permissible for use in the most environments and trials). There’s no throttle here, you just pick an assist level, pedal and the motor automatically kicks on based on your cadence and pedal torque. I had no issues climbing and was able to use the lowest two gears to reach my destination at the top of a peak on the outskirts of Simi Valley, CA where some other ebikes had struggled in days prior. The one complaint I had (and this applies for all Yamaha powered ebikes I’ve tried) is that in order to get full power from the motor I had to slow my cadence and often shifted up. With similarly specced Bosch powered models I was able to spin a bit faster while getting similar power.

Powering the bike is an impressive 36 volt 11 amp hour battery that slides in from the side and can be charged on or off the frame. The long slim design and unique mounting feature means the top tube on the bike can angle down more delivering a lower stand over height. This makes the bike accessible and when combined with the four frame size options, means more people can handle and enjoy it. Another feature I liked was the seat post dropper with remote (you can click a button, sit down and the seat post will slide down). This is super useful for transitioning from spinning on smooth terrain to bounding across bumpy terrain or bombing down a large hill. A high saddle can interfere with your leg motion to absorb bumps and kick you in the butt painfully if you drop a large bump or rock and squat suddenly.

A couple of other highlights with this and all ALLMTN models are the low-rise bars and negative-angle stem designed to protect the LCD display. The console itself is removable so you could pop it off on rough descents… just in case. Stiff thru-axles are used front and rear with 15 mm and 12 mm respectively and that’s part of what makes this a capable “all mountan” platform for use on challenging downhill terrain. Both suspension elements use air on the RC model so they weigh less and the bike comes in at ~51 lbs which is decent, both suspension shocks offer quick release and rebound adjust and the fork has remote lockout. My favorite part of this model is the bike itself, it feels great off-road and the brakes, while not top of the line, were solid on my short descent. There’s plenty of room to upgrade with the ALLMTN Pro and Plus models but the cost is quite high. I think I’d consider switching to the XDURO Bosch powered drive system for the extra money first because it suites me more… I have sensitive knees and prefer to spin faster vs. harder pressure with slow cadence. All Haibike ALLMTN models are limited to 20 mph assisted which is easy to hit on paved surfaces but feels thrilling off-road or while climbing medium grades.


  • Haibike is touting their Yamaha powered electric bikes as offering “uncompromising performance” geared for a younger demographic, zero cadence assist is meant to be more immediate (verses the Bosch Centerdrive which requires 20 rpm for the motor to kick in), in my experience both systems start extremely quickly and Yamaha is more torque responsive with a stronger but slower feel
  • With the ALLMTN series (anything above the SL) you get two front chain rings for a total of 20 gears, this offers a wider range of operation 455% vs. 420% and I could feel it when climbing the steepest inclines during my ride test
  • The Selle Royal saddle matches the frame, feels pretty good (but firm for active riding) and has an integrated light or bag clip for Selle Royal compatible accessories
  • The display panel is large, easy to read, backlit and removable! I’d probably take it off when doing tricky downhill stuff in case of a crash), I like that the button pad is easy to reach, well sealed and has an integrated Micro USB port for charging accessories
  • The Yamaha mid-drive motor operates fairly quietly in high and mid level gears (when it’s not spinning super fast)
  • You can charge the battery pack on or off the frame and since it slides on from the side vs. straight down like Bosch and other brands, it allows the top tube of the frame to angle down lower for more accommodating stand over height
  • Fun color scheme, the matte black with blue and fluorescent yellow accents looks rad and even the battery decals, saddle and fork are color matched!
  • Nice suspension fork with 150 mm travel, a stiff 15 mm thru axle, remote lockout and rebound adjust to handle a wide variety of terrain
  • The rear suspension is also light weight air and has a rebound adjust with two settings that almost behaved like a light lockout
  • Excellent weight distribution, the motor and battery are positioned low and center improving handling, both wheels have quick release for easier transport or trail maintenance and the motor is well protected with a replaceable plastic skidplate (also color matched!)
  • Offered in four frame sizes for improved fit whether you’re tall or short and if you’re female check out the similar FullLife model from Haibike for a different color scheme and shorter reach or downgrade to hardtale with the HardLife models


  • Limited motor speed range, I found that when switching down to lower gears the motor support dropped out significantly (even in the highest pedal assist mode) because it relies so heavily on torque as an input, this was a bummer when approaching hills at high speed riding off-road
  • No shift sensing or shift detection built into the drive system, this could lead to more mashing, banging and premature wear on the chain, cassette and derailleur
  • Large battery charger with cables that don’t come unplugged so it’s extra long even when the cables are tied up, it also weighs more than some other chargers I’ve seen
  • I found that the battery pack can rattle a bit at times and that you really need to make sure it’s clicked in before riding off, you could turn and remove the key but then push to hear the click of the battery


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2 years ago

Court, in your opinion is the Bosch system worth the price difference between the sduro and xduro lines?

2 years ago

Yes absolutely.

2 years ago

Hi Court, great review once again! I’m about to purchase one of these Haibikes, but I’m torn between the sduro SL and sduro RC. I noticed you have mentioned the main difference is the double chainring vs single. I’m not a crazy off roader or would be taking the bike to its limit so I don’t think the upgraded components between the SL to RC would matter much. But for the extra $, do you think the double chainring and drop post is worth it? I can get the RC for $475 more then the SL at my local shop. Do you know if the single chainring is upgradable to double on the SL? to be honest I prefer the color combo of the SL over the RC.

Another option is the xduro fullseven rc, I can get that for $700 more then the SL. You seem like a big fan of the Bosch motor, but just not sure if an extra $700 for that motor would really be noticeably to me. Since I mainly be using my bike on paved roads and occasional dirt/gravel trails. Let me know what you think about the SL vs the RC or go the extra mile and get the xduro fullseven rc? If the SL single chainring is upgradable to the double that would be ideal. As I could save some $ and still get the double chainring and have my preferred color combo. Thanks

2 years ago

Hi Tom! Great questions, I think the SL would be a solid bike if it truly has the large removable LCD and the remote button pad. I reviewed an SL model from the women’s collection that had a very basic LED console with the buttons built in and lacked a USB port and the Eco+ level of assist… It actually worked fine but was a definite downgrade. My understanding is that the SDURO ALLMTN SL does have the nicer LCD but double check that (please let me know if you’ve seen it in person). The SL would be fine for what you’re describing and ~$500 is a solid savings… Having tried both XDURO and SDURO models I definitely prefer the Bosch drive system but that’s because I prefer to spin and enjoy the cadence feel vs. torque sensing feel of Yamaha. I also love the Intuvia display panel and the tighter battery integration. In my mind, it’s just better… but I still love the SDURO models and $700 could go a long ways towards buying something else. Since my focus is all about ebikes I’d pay more and upgrade but I know I would still be very happy with the SDURO and given your position I think the SL model sounds fine, I usually never shift the front gears anyway ;)

2 years ago

I’m having the same dillema, ALmnt RC or Almnt SL. I haven’t been able to find a dealer that has both to compare in person. In fact dealer in Venice CA had only two hardtails with yamaha motors which is not what I’m interested. They said they will get back to me when the ALLMNT gets shipped. Let me know what was your final decision?

2 years ago

Hi please help me, I’m located at Toronto and very close to pull the trigger to buy ebike full suspention, I can’t decide what I should get, I’m 135 kg and 180 cm. But away I can spend $5800 Canadian. I’m going to use it to go downtown and 33 km mild uphill coming back from downtown, I had knee surgery so this going to best option I guess.

2 years ago

Hi Hassan, I hope my reply reached you soon enough! I love the Haibike line but would recommend spending more for the XDURO Bosch powered bikes because they don’t take as much pressure to activate and if you have a sensitive knee that would be ideal. You may look for the 45 cm frame size as you and I are very similar in height and this is what fit me best. There is also a 50 cm frame size for most that works well. Any of the full suspension models would work for you in the correct size if you’re just riding around town (but probably not the downhill model). Check out the Haibike XDURO FullSeven. Also, here is a video of my uncle talking about using a full suspension Haibike to commute to work just like you’re talking about doing!

9 months ago

Court, have you ridden the SDURO? The Yamaha motor has the zero cadence, torque NOW system, Bosch does not. In fact, the Yamaha torque and control unit is so good that I leave the bike in one gear, the highest, and find that this covers 80% of the terrain. No stress on knees, and even spinning like a dervish the Yamah motor does not cut out. This all-terrain riding though where I rarely go over 20mph. The Bosch is fine on a trekking bike I ran in Germany on a bike path tour, but for bad knees starting in a gear that’s two numbers too high only the Yamaha will do.

2 years ago

Hi there , I’m really worried about the range you get on the bike. What are your honest estimates with range. I weigh 172lbs. Are there better ebikes out there with better range. I will be doing mostly paved roads , some gravel and the weekend trail in the woods ? Thanks

2 years ago

Hi Marcel! In my experience the mid-drive units from Bosch XDURO can truly get 60+ miles per charge if you’re using the lowest assist level and are riding on flat paved surfaces (without a lot of wind). The estimates are based on a 160 lb rider… Unfortunately I don’t have as much in-depth experience with the Yamaha SDURO but their lowest assist seems to offer less power so you could get as much or even more range. Yes, there are higher capacity further ranged electric bicycles out there and one company to consider is Focus (or Kalkhoff, both part of the Pon group but Kalkhoff is more on-road vs. Focus being a bit of off-road too). They also use mid-drive motors but the output is 250+ vs. 350+ on Bosch and Yamaha. Hope this helps! I have a lot of love for Haibike for their style, value and warranty, my preference is the Bosch XDURO but Yamaha is decent too :)

o.c rider
2 years ago

I actually own this bike and have put a few hundred miles on it. I also own a 2015 Xduro FullSeven RX (same bike Court owns I think), and a Felt Dual-e, (also with the Bosch system). I have quite a few miles on the Bosch system under my belt and on the Yamaha system, which is rare, so I think it would be helpful to share what I’ve learned. I’ve ridden both down super steep, technical, trails and hammered them hard. Through creeks, loose rocks, mud, tree roots, you name it. I’ve been mountain biking since 1992.

Here in orange county we have a riding area called Whiting Ranch and there’s a trail called Mustard. At the end of Mustard is a pretty steep hill, most average to below average guys walk up for the last 20 ft to give you a mental picture, its the end of a pretty long climb to the top. I did back to back to back comparison tests up the last 100 feet of this trail, Bosch vs. Yamaha. They feel different. By different I mean different. The Bosch makes you feel like you’re moving faster, cause like Court says you’re spinning a little lower gear on the Bosch. The reality is that the Yamaha actually has a lower final gear ratio, you can spin if you want just like on the Bosch. But on the Yamaha it’s easy to push a little higher gear and thus travel a lot faster, and BTW this is Bosch Turbo mode vs. Yamaha High (both systems at the highest settings). I’m not talking about blow out your knees pushing up a hill, the bikes are on the highest boost mode, you’re not gonna kill yourself of anything let’s get real. If you raced your friend and your skills were equal, I believe the Yamaha bike is a bit faster up hills, just a bit, like one bike length over a 100 foot race up a hill faster. It’s a faster bike up hills was my conclusion, but not by much, either bike you’re still basically lance armstrong compared to any other rider on the trail. But this is not the full story.

By the way, on the Yamaha system I see no reason to ever shift the front into the large chain ring. You could take it off really. You just never need it. Re-reading I’m wondering if Court test rode the bike in the large chain ring in the front, maybe leaving him with the impression that you had to really push the bike to get speed? (the bike is on the large front in the video picture?) The boost stops at 20mph and that’s right about where the smaller front chain ring leaves you. To shift up to the large front chain ring would be in situations where you’re pedaling over 20mph, and that’s where the computer fights you and resists going over 20, totally pointless to fight the system to get to 25 or whatever. I’m sure they spec’d the 2×10 drive just to save dollars, the Yamaha system should be a 1×10, or 1×11 just like the Bosch in my opinion.

Anyways, the full story with the Yamaha bike is that it costs less than the Bosch system. Quite a bit less. And the Sduro AllMtn’s have 150mm of suspension vs my other bikes 120mm. Big huge fat difference. 150mm is so much better, especially on a 50lbs bike. I’ll never go back. Also here’s the biggest dirty secret on Bosch bikes: the 16t front sprocket + wet/sand/mud = Chain suck. Lock the cranks cold, chain suck. Ruin your ride chain suck. Get so frustrated you dip your drivetrain in a creek to try to fix it chain suck.

16t front is just too small, plain and simple. Bosch could’ve spec’d at least a 18t or maybe a 20t and changed the internal gearing. But for some reason they didn’t. Ok on BOTH my Bosch bikes, it’s the same story. The SES pulley on the Haibike might help, but I’ve got the suck on both very annoyingly so. It’s when the chain gets dirty basically. Look at the bosch equipped bike, it’s pretty simple, combine Lance Armstrong on PED’s amount of torque, a regular mid-grade $20 bike chain, and a smaller-than-even-a-singlespeed 16t front sprocket and the numbers don’t add up. Something’s gotta give. I’ve replaced the chain with X01 and it helped but when it gets wet and muddy or sandy look out, it’ll ride around the front sprocket like a merry go round and lock the cranks on you. In every gear. I’ve troubleshot it. There’s no escape. Bring a can of aerosol spray chain clean/lube with you if you ride bosch in wet. I’ve talked to Bosch people. They have no solution other than keep it clean, replace chain, replace sprocket.

The Yamaha system is so simple in contrast, it reminds me of a toyota truck. It just works. Nothing fancy, just plain works. Bosch is like VW – meaning it leaves me wondering if German engineering is so amazing, why aren’t they the most reliable cars on the road? I’m exaggerating a bit, but seriously Bosch is nice but I’m more of a Honda guy than a Mercedes guy.

So to sum up this stupidly long post, if the Bosch bikes and Yamaha bikes from Haibike were equipped exactly the same and priced exactly the same I’d still choose the Yamaha for its drivetrain simplicity. But the fact that the Yamaha bikes are priced almost a $1000 less? No brainer, Yamaha.

2 years ago

Great feedback, excellent points! Thanks for taking the time to share it all… I may have been in the larger ring for this review as you suggest but have ridden other SDURO (Yamaha) bikes where there was only a 1×10 drivetrain and it still felt like a lower RPM activation range with lower speed outputs which just wasn’t as satisfying for me as Bosch. I’ve heard 80 RPM for Yamaha and 95-100 for Bosch? It’s totally a style thing and I was indeed impressed with Yamaha and their lower price. As for the smaller sprockets and chain suck… yeah, I’ve heard about this from other high-level riders, here’s a thread where EddieJ shows his muddy bike and talks about it. Apparently Bosch lets each bike maker decide on sprocket size and they range from like 16T to 20T which might help. It’s a trade off, glad both are in the space working to make their stuff even better :)

John Watts
1 year ago

Hi Court. I have been reading your reviews and have enjoyed them. I would like some input on making a selection of an ebike. I have looked at and had a short test ride on Pedego’s Ridge Rider 27.5 Mountain Bike, Specialized Turbo Levo FSR Comp 6Fattie and Haibike”s AllMtnSL. I am an above knee amputee and when I ride i get about fourth the power on my down ward stroke out of my artificial leg than my good leg. When i road the Haibike i was watching the power bar on the left of their screen and really noticed the lack of power my artificial leg produced it was down about a fourth or less of my other leg. So my question considering most of my power comes out of one leg which ebike system would recommend for me. I saw that you mentioned the Bosch system for some one with a bad knee. I am leaning tward Haibike’s AllMRsl right now of the bikes I have tested, they did not have any of the Bocsh system bikes to try. The Specialized bike I tried seem to slow down fast when you stoped pedealing, not much glide, maybe its the faty tires. Thank you

1 year ago

Hi John, great to hear your thoughts on this… my own experience with the SDURO Yamaha system is that it makes you push harder than with the higher levels of XDURO Bosch models. You can still get a workout (and possibly struggle with your artificial leg) if you use the lowest assist but the higher ones are awesome. I feel that the system balances cadence and torque for power output vs. relying more heavily on torque. Another model I’ve been hearing about that might put power out for longer even if you’re not pushing as hard is the new Stromer ST2 X but I haven’t tried it yet. I have tested several Easy Motion bikes and they have some lag with assist and a throttle so you could switch to that if you needed a break. The only downside is that the throttle does not override assist… so you have to adjust it with the left button pad then twist. I hope this helps to guide you! I’d love to hear what you decide on or further feedback as you test more bikes.


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bob armani
19 hours ago

Zoli-So in your opinion, if you do not have the latest and greatest version of Bluetooth on your smartphone, you will not get the best performance from COBI?
My question: If you do not have a newer smartphone, can you just simply download the latest Bluetooth version on an older smartphone. (ie: I have a Motorola Moto E.) So in theory, this may very well explain why some owners of the Urban have connectivity issues and others do not??

1 day ago

Have a 2016 FullSeven Xduro RC and it came with Rock Shox 120mm travel Recon solo air forks. They were OK, but nothing like the Pikes on my Bulls. Also liked the slacker 66 degree head angle on the Bulls as apposed to the 69 degrees on the RC. I found a great deal on a new 160mm travel Lyrik but wondered if installing the longer travel forks on the 120mm travel frame would mess up the geometry. Turns out it totally improved the handling far more than even hoped! Don't notice the higher BB (maybe 20mm), but it gave me about 1 degree slacker head angle and just makes the bike so much better for the rocky terrain I ride. Before the upgrade I preferred my Brose powered Bulls, but now with the new fork and the e-Mtb mode software upgrade it's a total toss up!

I'm wondering if the geometry of this series of Haibike frames are pretty much the same. A buddy has the same year Sduro AMT with 150mm front and rear suspension and it has a 68 head angle which is the same as I now have.

2 days ago

Yup, I agree about the 750 WH battery. I’ve bought a second Yamaha battery so I can tour a bit more. The only issue with the second battery is that it’s not secured to the bike. I store it in a trunk bag. That means I can’t go shopping with it. I do everything with my bike as I live in a neighborhood which allows it. But I think that leaving an unlocked battery would be pushing it a bit.

I will probably keep the bike for a year or two more. It was a good deal and that’s not easy to find here. I really like the Stromer ST1x but it’s heavy and I have to carry the bike up a flight of stairs. The Haibike Trekking is very practical in that sense. I also like that it has quick release wheels. A flat is quickly fixed.

Ravi Kempaiah
2 days ago

Lots of useful info.
I enjoy pedaling hard compared to spinning and I have always enjoyed Brose and Yamaha for that reason although I ride the Bosch trekking bike. Bosch Trekking S Rx has been great but I do wish it had more range. I wish this package had Supernova M99 lights and some higher volume tires.

This summer, I am switching to Big Ben tires and better fenders. Surprisingly, Magura brakes have been top notch on both Haibike and Stromer. Always reliable stopping power at my disposal and have been very happy with that.

If only there was a S-pedelec with 750Whr battery, <50lbs weight, Supernova M99 lights, Magura MT5 and 27.5" high volume tires.... Actually, I am thinking of getting the Trekking 9.0 Bosch bike and unlock it....

2 days ago

Yes, this place

2 days ago

My error! My bad: Long ago I removed the stickers from my CCS front fork for a cleaner look.

I was presuming a model name by looking at the Suntour pages. Did not notice that the NCX-E is an air fork. Mine is definitely spring, with damping on the other side.

Thank you Nova Haibike and Thank you Chris Nolte for all the help and wisdom.

I now know to aim for an NCX-E when I replace the fork.

2 days ago

Haibike FullSeven S rx Xduro.

2 days ago

I'm a bike enthusiast and also a software developer so for me COBI's opensource API is a great test-ground for ideas. In deed I'm currently making a couple of customized 'Modules' for my rides via COBI API.

I think the issues that were experienced early 2016/17 was regarding Bluetooth connectivity dropouts. I have the a latest Android phone with Bluetooth version 4.2 and its is very fast without lagtime. So yes u will need latest iPhone or Android to be sure u don't experience lagtime etc.

As a footnote even without carrying your smartphone, your COBI.bike can still function as a front and rear light and you can still switch through the different modes of the AmbiSense Light System. Also, the electronic bell is still functioning. If you own an eBike you can choose the motor support levels using the thumb controller.
Looking at COBI development.docs the system is made to fall back to no GPS signals etc. So the bike should not come to a grinding halt if GPS etc. is not avail.

Why would Haibike risk destroying their reputation selling off a bunch of troublesome bikes to make a few bucks?! not...and the dealers hate low margin SALE bikes so they will always try to up-sell to their highest margin sales, just to keep in mind.

Just my 2cents..

2 days ago

I thought I would open this thread to go through all the flaws people see with the Trekking models. There are a lot of different variants, but a lot of these bikes share common parts. Just state your model and what you think Haibike (or its suppliers) could have done better. The idea isn’t to bash the bikes but to give a list of longterm ownership problems (and any workarounds), and maybe a couple of positives too.

I have the Trekking Sduro S 6.0 2017 which is the Yamaha 45km/h version available in the EU only. All in all it’s not a bad bike, but if Haibike had chosen slightly higher quality parts for certain key accessories, they could have built a better bike while maintaining roughly the same price. Yamaha and Magura should have paid a lot more attention to details.

Full specs are here:


A short list of issues:

[*]The bike comes with flimsy SKS chromoplastics fenders. The rear fender works as advertised, but the front one wobbles and makes an absolutely horrible noise.
[*]The Magura MT4 brakes progressively leak. A mechanic where I bought the bike said they’ve sold a lot of models with MT4 brakes and this is quite common. Each time you change the pads a little bit of liquid leaks out when you press apart the pistons. So you have to be ever so careful doing this.
[*]The Yamaha plastic remote is fixed onto the handlebars by two screws which bite into its casing. The remote constantly swivels out of place, which is very annoying. You cannot use WALK mode because of this. I've put a plastic band under the remote which only half solves the problem.
[*]The status button on the battery progressively regresses and becomes more and more difficult to use with time.
[*]The battery rattles, which can actually be eliminated by using a neoprene sleeve. For the summer you can use a cutout sleeve.
[*]The assist levels are not evenly spaced out on this bike. ECO+ gives a ridiculously low amount of assist, and then there’s normal ECO which is fine. But between ECO and Standard mode there is a huge gap. It’s really difficult to tour around in ECO mode on this bike because it takes a lot of strength. That impacts range a lot. I typically get 35-40 kilometers on a full charge (300 meter vertical delta, 95 kilo rider).
[*]The ride is bumpy. People have often placed the blame on the Suntour SR, which only has 63mm of travel. That’s true, but it’s only part of the problem. The narrow 700x38 tires are also part of the problem. And then there’s the frame. It’s so stiff that the rear bounces off each and every bump. The smaller the frame, the bumpier the ride… I have a 52 which is a size S. Guess that doesn’t help.

Some positives:

[*]The rack is often critiqued (Standwell Carrymore), but is actually one of the best parts of the bike according to me. It adapts to almost anything and is fairly sturdy.
[*]Brake lights are a nice addition. They're made by Busch & Müller (Toplight Line E Brake).
[*]Zero Cadence is really helpful in traffic.
[*]The bike climbs beautifully compared to some other 45km/h mid-drives. It’s not the fastest, but you can bet you’ll make it to the top of the hill each and every time. When things start to get tough, those 80Nm are there and you can feel them.
[*]Rims are top notch. These things stay true no matter what. (Rodi Black Rock Disc).
[*]Chain and drivetrain are built to last. Roughly 8000 kilometers and still good.
[*]Lights are always on, which annoyed me at first. But it’s a good safety feature.
[*]Mirror is tucked under the handlebars. Good job here too.
[*]The kickstand auto-retracts when sold, but if you remove a spring it behaves like a normal kickstand. Good job by the supplier on helping the user to get around the silly regulations here. It's a Pletscher Comp ARA.

The unscrutables:

[*]The Yamaha PW drive is amongst the things that are almost impossible to describe as good or bad. It’s just ‘different’. The drive likes torque input from the rider. That means not spinning too fast and putting a fair amount of pressure on the pedals. So you will often need to be in quite a high gear to get the best out of it. I would qualify the drive as being deceptively powerful. If you’re in those higher gears, and put in the effort, you can get a fair amount of power from this drive. If you want to go fast but don’t have strong knees and thighs, and want to spin instead of mash, this definitely isn’t the drive for you. People have said that the assist being limited to lower cadences (under 90-92) is a ‘bad thing’, but you quickly get accustomed to it.

2 days ago

Thank you, Chris. It is a spring shock, though, and has hydraulic damping. It is a good fork and I have adjusted the spring for excellent results.

I don't know diddly about these things and so I am thankful that you and Nova Haibike helped so fast!

OK, am understanding better. Two questions more, please, for Chris Nolte and Nova Haibike:

[*]why do street forks mostly have about 60mm travel and not double that amount?

EDIT: I looked up tapered steerer and learned why a straight headtube cannot be adapted to a tapered steerer:

I guess I will stick with what I have unless there is an air version available. As my present fork survived a car crashing into the bike, I want to replace it soon, anyway. It did take a hit; the fork is only scuffed up looking, but the headtube twisted the frame slightly. I will replace the entire bike eventually. For now, it is repaired and running and I wanted to learn if there are better suspension fork options. Perhaps not after all.

Thanks for any further thoughts.

3 days ago

Mi pedelec es Haibike trekking 5.0

Bob Schober
3 weeks ago

I had a Mustang (Hallo Motors) before this that went 35mph just on the throttle alone and got about 50 mile son the charge. It was really heavy and felt more like a dirt bike than a mountain bike. I got an Sduro allmtn rc. If nothing else how do i bypass the pushback once im going over 21 mph

2 months ago

MLB I know this is an older post but wondering if you or anyone else in this thread can help. I have a Haibike Sduro AllMtn RC in the garage already (the exact one in this thread with Court's review) but am considering a fat bike to ride around here in Colorado in the Winter.

I'm looking at the Easy Motion Big Bud Pro and the Sduro Fat 6. I like the AWD and pricing as well as battery (600wh) on the Big Bud but the Fat 6 would give me a 2nd compatible battery for my two Haibikes and the mid drive motor . OR can I save a bunch of money and properly winterize my Allmtn RC to work ok in the snow? I was worried about the "float" of the narrower tires?

1 year ago

Congrats! The rc has a nice set of components, I'm sure you'll be happy with it. I love the Yamaha motor, it has a very nice instant delivery of power. You'll be surprised by how far the battery will take you. Nice thing about the Yamaha is that the gauge has a power output meter which shows how hard the motor us working (didn't site an actual percentage but a meter at least helps to show current output at a given moment!)

1 year ago

Well I ran across a deal so good I could not pass it up. I purchased Sduro allmtn RC 2016. So cheap I can afford a second battery and still be well below the retail of the 2017 model. I am going to hold out and get the new 500wh battery as soon as they available

1 year ago


I have a Haibike sDuro AllMtn RC 2015 model.
I need a maintenance stand which will allow me to adjust brakes and gears etc. The problem is the bike weighs around 22kg and has an unusual aluminium frame which is something like a 45mm x 45mm pentagon in profile.
So a suitable stand would have to allow for ground and pedal clearance, a rotating clamp big enough to hold the frame, cope with the weight, fold away when not in use and not cost a fortune as I'm only a hobbyist not a professional bike mechanic. I've read hundreds of product reviews but haven't come across another Haibike owner who is either looking for the same thing or has found a suitable stand.
Any ideas?


Ann M.
2 years ago

I'd take a look at Court's review of the https://electricbikereview.com/haibike/sduro-allmtn-rc/, it's the same Yamaha 250 watt motor, 500 watt peak with slightly more narrow tires (consider changing those yourself?) for several hundred $$ less. This Yamaha motor has 80Nm of torque, so would be a monster climbing hills! Motostrano is selling the bike you mention but refers to the motor only by the peak motor output, so don't be mislead.

Just check the specs and consider what performance you want on a full suspension mountain bike, then buy. As an ebike dealer for almost 15 years, the Haibikes require regular maintenance but put up with serious beatings by mountain trails better than a lot of other less expensive ebikes and come with a team of well trained techs. So go brew your own cup of coffee and get out their and RIDE! :D

2 years ago

Here are the specs for the latest SDURO AllMtn RC
Just compare them with your own.


Tempe RoofGuy
3 weeks ago

I have this exact same bike. I just bought it last week used with only 140 miles on it and I have already put 25% of that on mine in the last week. How can i make this thing go faster it gives push back at 22 mph...help

Don John
2 months ago


7 months ago

How do you wash it ?

8 months ago

Fag bikes. If you can't pedal , then don't ride

Vaidotas Ratkus
7 months ago

fags ride cars.

8 months ago

Is it pedal assist or throttle asist

9 months ago

i am a little bit oldschool and read the manual how to get into walkassistance mode for my brose motor. now i know.

10 months ago

I have the 2017 sduro allmtn 6.0 with the 500wh battery. I know there's not that many range reviews, so here it is.
just rode 37. miles on high setting , mostly flat, mostly high speed gears. From awahtukee foothills Az, to Avondale Az. I have 23% battery left. I weigh 200 lb.
hope that helps. super efficient.

Alexi Thunderbird
10 months ago

what is walk mode? are there any bikes like this that have a "throttle"? like being able to use it as a nonpeddle assist?

11 months ago

Is it pedelec?

11 months ago

Thank you for a great review. This is one of the best Haibike Reviews I've seen on YouTube. Steady camera shots, very informative. Lots of useful information. Well done sir!

Charlie Tittelbach
1 year ago

Have the same bike really enjoy had it for six months not one problem specially in cold weather in winter snow

1 year ago

I just got the Giant Dirt-E+ 2 2-16 model. I don't know how they compare exactly, but I think the motor on that and on this bike are fairly similar. They're both the Yamaha PW I think, though mine is limited to 25 kph.

The recommended peak power for which the motor responds well is about 75-80 rpms, but I think the motor responds best to torque - regardless of the rpms, the motor gives a lot when you really push on the pedals, and it's quick to back off when you slack. I've observed the motor still kicking in a bit at 26 kph - which is beyond its supposed limit - when I push hard on the pedals. It's not residual power, either. Even when I'm already cruising at bit over 25 kph, as soon as I give it a kick, the motor responds a bit even beyond the coded limit, so I think they're really leaning on the torque sensor to gauge how the motor responds.

I think Yamaha's new PW-X motor on the top end bikes for 2017 will have a higher rpm range of response, so that's something to look forward to.

Mirko Neitzel
1 year ago

What a cable goes to the seat?

Jean-Marc Fourcade
1 year ago

It's an hydrolic saddle tube, that can go up and down with a remote on the handlebar

Miracle lin
1 year ago

48V 500W Bafang Motor 10.4 AH Samsung Lithium Cell Battery Electric Mountain Bike: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGHRVHU/ref=twister_B01BGHRVDY?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

ZATCEP Channel
2 years ago

why can't they make the battery recharge itself on the way down for example, when there's excessive speed that can be utilized?

Content Updating
1 year ago

ZATCEP Channel That is not possible because the wheels do not turn the mid drive motor. Just like any normal bike, the pedals do not turn when the bike is coasting. You can only have regen braking with a direct drive hub motor.

Content Updating
1 year ago

mark brouwer No, a battery can be charged any time. Also, at no point is a battery ever being used and charged at the same time. This cannot happen.

mark brouwer
1 year ago

i think it is bad for the battery because there is power going out of the battery and going in at the same time then. i don't know if it is bad but i think they didn't do that for a reason.

Richard Alpagot
2 years ago

Nice review, thanks!

2 years ago

Great review. Thanks.

1 year ago

can't wait to see your reviews of the 2017 models from Haibike with their increased battery to 500W and the yamaha motor's adding a 5th top end "turbo boost' type gear.

Thomas Lee
2 years ago

fat people shouldn't be allowed to buy this

11 months ago

Well said Thomas

Mavro Tsai
2 years ago


2 years ago

I think you're confused about how people lose weight... Eat healthier food and less of it, become happier by spending time outside with other people, moderate cardiovascular exercise (certainly provided by a pedal assist only electric bike). This specific bike is an excellent tool for empowering riders who may be struggling with weight to get outside and enjoy losing some of it

Cess Outdoors
2 years ago