IZIP E3 Dash Review

2017 Izip E3 Dash Electric Bike Review
2017 Izip E3 Dash
2017 Izip E3 Dash Tranzx M16 Mid Motor
2017 Izip E3 Dash 48 Volt Panasonic Battery
2017 Izip E3 Dash Currie Electro Drive Lcd Display Ergonomic Grips
2017 Izip E3 Dash Rockshox Paragon Air Suspension Fork
2017 Izip E3 Dash 42t Chainring With Chain Guide
2017 Izip E3 Dash Alloy Rack And Kickstand
2017 Izip E3 Dash Sks Plastic Fenders And Spanninga Solo Led Light
2017 Izip E3 Dash 10 Speed Sram X7 Drivetrain
2017 Izip E3 Dash Portable 2 Amp Battery Charger
2017 Izip E3 Dash Electric Bike Review
2017 Izip E3 Dash
2017 Izip E3 Dash Tranzx M16 Mid Motor
2017 Izip E3 Dash 48 Volt Panasonic Battery
2017 Izip E3 Dash Currie Electro Drive Lcd Display Ergonomic Grips
2017 Izip E3 Dash Rockshox Paragon Air Suspension Fork
2017 Izip E3 Dash 42t Chainring With Chain Guide
2017 Izip E3 Dash Alloy Rack And Kickstand
2017 Izip E3 Dash Sks Plastic Fenders And Spanninga Solo Led Light
2017 Izip E3 Dash 10 Speed Sram X7 Drivetrain
2017 Izip E3 Dash Portable 2 Amp Battery Charger


  • A value-priced urban electric bike that includes fenders, integrated LED lights, a rear rack, and hydraulic disc brakes, it's available in three frame sizes but only high-step
  • This is a high-speed Class 3 ebike that can reach ~28 mph assisted and because it relies on a cadence sensor, you don't have to push as hard to get there, excellent weight distribution
  • Custom frame with internally routed cables and a bottle cage mounting point, turning the bike on and off requires extra steps, the display panel is not removable
  • Only one color choice but the silver looks cool and keeps you visible at night, the cadence sensing motor does not have shift sensing and the brake levers don't have motor inhibitors

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Video Review

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E3 Dash



Body Position:


Suggested Use:

Urban, Commuting

Electric Bike Class:

Speed Pedalec (Class 3), Throttle on Demand (Class 2)
Learn more about Ebike classes


2 Year Comprehensive, Lifetime Frame


United States

Model Year:


Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

53 lbs (24.04 kg)

Battery Weight:

5.8 lbs (2.63 kg)

Motor Weight:

9.5 lbs (4.3 kg)

Frame Material:

6061 Aluminum Alloy

Frame Sizes:

15 in (38.1 cm)17 in (43.18 cm)19 in (48.26 cm)

Geometry Measurements:

Medium 17": 17" Seat Tube, 31" Stand Over Height, 73" Length

Frame Types:


Frame Colors:

Silver with White and Black Accents

Frame Fork Details:

Rock Shox Paragon Air Suspension, 65 mm Travel, Lockout, 9 mm Quick Release Skewer

Frame Rear Details:

Alloy 142 / 12 mm Thru-Axle with Quick Release

Attachment Points:

Rear Rack Bosses, Fender Bosses, Bottle Cage Bosses

Gearing Details:

10 Speed 1x10 SRAM X7, 11-32T Cassette

Shifter Details:

SRAM X7 Triggers on Right


Lasco EB05 Crank Arms, 175 mm Length, Chainring with Alloy Guide, 42T


Wellgo Aluminum Alloy Platform, Black


FSA 1-1/8"


Promax, 7° Angle, 95 mm Length, Two 10 mm Stacks, One 5 mm Stack


Tranz-X DB Alloy 31.8 mm Diameter, 650 mm x 25 mm Low Rise

Brake Details:

Shimano M355 Hydraulic Disc with 180 mm Front Rotor and 160 mm Rear Rotor


Velo Dual Density, Ergonomic Rubber, Locking


Velo Street

Seat Post:

Tranz-X Alloy with Quick Release Collar

Seat Post Length:

350 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

31.6 mm


Alex DH19 Doublewall, Aluminum Alloy, 36 Hole


Stainless Steel, 13 Gauge, Black with Nipples

Tire Brand:

Kenda Kuick Bitumen, 700 x 45c (28" x 1-5/8")

Wheel Sizes:

28 in (71.12cm)

Tire Details:

50 to 85 PSI

Tube Details:

Presta Valve


Integrated Front and Rear LED Lights (AXA Blueline50 and Spanninga Solo), SKS Plastic Full Length Fenders with Rubber Mud Guards, Aluminum Alloy Rack (18 kg, 40 lb Max Load), Single Side Adjustable Length Kickstand


Locking Removable Battery Pack, 1.8 Pound 2 Amp Charger, Hold + Button to Activate Lights, Hold the Page Button to Swap Metric and Standard, Hold + and Page Buttons for 10 Seconds for Options

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:

Currie Electro-Drive® (TranzX, Model M16)

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Geared Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

350 watts

Motor Peak Output:

500 watts

Motor Torque:

68 Newton meters

Battery Brand:


Battery Voltage:

48 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

8.7 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

417.6 wh

Battery Chemistry:


Charge Time:

5 hours

Estimated Min Range:

16 miles (26 km)

Estimated Max Range:

40 miles (64 km)

Display Type:

Currie Electro Drive, Fixed Monochrome, Backlit LCD, Adjustable Angle


Speed, Odometer, Trip, Battery Capacity (5 Bars), Assist Level (0-4), Range

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pad on Left (+, -, Page, On/Off), Hold Page to Change Units, Hold + to Activate Lights, Hold + and Page for Menu

Drive Mode:

Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist (Optional Boost Button Throttle)

Top Speed:

28 mph (45 kph) (20 mph Throttle Only)

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Written Review

The E3 Dash has long been one of my favorite IZIP electric bike models. It looks great, is value priced, offers great urban accessories (fenders, integrated lights, and a rear rack in this case) and comes in several sizes for improved fit. While the 2017 version does not come in multiple colors, I feel like the silver and black looks professional and approaches unisex while also improving your visual footprint from the side. This is a Class 3 Speed Pedelec capable of reaching ~28 mph top speeds and it uses a cadence sensor so you don’t have to work as hard to hit and maintain top speeds. Most other mid-drive ebikes I’ve been seeing form premium brands use Bosch, Yamaha, or Brose but the E3 Dash has gone with TranzX, probably to keep the cost down. The motor is compact, relatively quit but not as quiet as Brose or Yamaha, and uses a standard sized chainring. I like that they added alloy guides on this chainring to keep the chain from bouncing off if you take the bike across a bumpy section of road. And the new Dash has a 65 mm air fork along with medium-width tires to really improve the comfort of your ride. This is a huge deal for people like me who have a sensitive back and neck but also want a light weight frame. The 2017 IZIP E3 Dash weighs about 53 lbs, which I would consider good for having the fenders, rack, and a larger 48 volt battery pack. My biggest gripes center on the lack of shift sensing and brake lever motor inhibitors as well as the two-step on and off process. If you’re unable to shift smoothly, the chain, cassette, and derailleur will wear out faster and that goes for the display panel as well because it’s not removable. Now the battery pack is removable and both wheels use quick release so maintenance and flat fixes aren’t such a hassle… so it’s a mixed bag. For the price, I see this is a very capable electric bicycle, and if you ride it thoughtfully, it should hold up well over time. Plus, you get a comprehensive two-year warranty from the Accell Group (which owns IZIP) and their systems use CAN bus which allows for fast, easy diagnostics by shops who sell the product.

Driving this bike is a powerful mid-drive from TranzX called the M16. It offers up to 63 Newton meters of torque and can be powered through cadence sensing pedal assist (by default) or a boost button throttle which is sold separately. The boost button sounds neat, but because it doesn’t become active until the bike is moving ~2 mph, I feel that it loses a lot of its potential value. I like to use throttles to help get me started… especially on cadence sensing electric bikes which take a pedal rotation or two before the motor kicks in. Thankfully, the TranxZ motor responds fairly quickly in pedal assist mode and also cuts out fast when you stop. It produces a bit of whirring noise when operating, more at the higher RPM, but if you shift gears effectively I feel like it fades away with the sound of the tires on the road, through the sound of air passing, and a bit of fender rattle. Yes, the fenders do rattle a little bit… the rear one especially. It is not connected to the rack the way that some other fenders are and it doesn’t have an extra set of support arms at the middle which would keep it quieter. The fenders are plastic and won’t rust or bend the way that Steel and Aluminum might. Visually, the motor looks good with a silver metal base that matches the frame color. It does bulge out a bit towards the front but doesn’t hang down lower than the 42 tooth chainring. And the 10-sprocket SRAM X7 drivetrain on this bike is a great choice because it offers enough steps to pedal comfortably at a range of speeds. It’s roughly equivalent to Shimano Deore and is considered to be the upper end of entry level or the lower end of mid-level which fits the value pricing of the bike. You get trigger shifters on the right that are easy to actuate and those Shimano M355 hydraulic disc brakes to slow things down. The brake levers are fairly large and easy to reach with adjustable reach settings to accommodate small or large hands and people who ride with gloves.

Powering the bike is a 48 Volt 8.7 Amp hour battery pack with premium Panasonic cells inside. I’d call it average in terms of capacity and appreciate the clean, aerodynamic aesthetic of the plastic pack. Note that the downtube is flat on top to bring the battery lower and help it blend into the frame. At the base, a metal cup supports the dock interface and continues the bulge look of the pack into the bottom bracket. This is mostly aesthetic but I like how it looks much better than a big black box just hanging out with no smoothing on either side. The pack seats in from the left side vs. down from the top and this makes it easier to get on and off. Note that IZIP was able to squeeze in a pair of bottle cage bosses near the base of the seat tube. If you do add an accessory here, the pack won’t bump into it and get scratched as easily as if it were to seat from the top down. And I love that the battery has a rigged handle type design at the top because I often take my batteries into the office for charging during the day. One thing to note is that IZIP estimates a low range for this bike at 16 to 30 miles per charge. This really depends on your weight, the terrain, and even the wind speed, temperature outside, and speed that you’re riding at. Anything above 20 mph significantly cuts into range because of air resistance. Thankfully, the display panel has a range estimate readout that’s dynamic so you can arrow through the four levels of assist and make sure you’ve got enough juice to get to your destination. Even if you do run out, those 10 speeds, efficient 700c tires, and active geometry make the bike reasonable to pedal unassisted. I want to call out the ergonomic grips and large, grippy platform pedals as being nice upgrades while we’re focused on pedaling.

Operating the bike is not as intuitive as I’d like because there’s a two-step power on and off process. First, you have to press the power button at the base of the battery (on the left side) and then you press power on the control pad (mounted near the left grip). The display comes to life and shows a bunch of trip stats that you an explore by pressing the box “page” button. If you hold this button for a couple of seconds, it will switch from Miles to Kilometers and if you hold Page and + together for 10 seconds or so, you can open the menu. This area allows you to adjust screen brightness, backlighting sensitivity, and even power output. To change power output, navigate to the SU are and adjust from -15 to 15 to remove or add three Amps to create a smoother or zippier feel. Note that shops can also adjust the maximum speed that this ebike can reach, which is cool for people who don’t want to go so fast in order to feel safer or maximize range. So, you can arrow up from assist level one through four to increase power and speed, and you will need to actively shift gears to reach the maximum speed of the bike but this is part of what makes a mid-drive efficient. It leverages the same gears that you do to pedal with. And there is one extra drive mode buried in there as well, if you hold the power button for a couple of seconds while the bike is on, you will see the display change to assist level zero… which allows you to ride as a normal bicycle while still having access to the display readouts (like speed, trip distance, odometer) and power the lights. Why they didn’t just allow the minus button to go down from level one to level zero is a mystery to me. This would have been easier to do while riding and saved a bunch of time when powering off the bike (because you have to press power once… and then again for a full shutoff) The plus button also has a second feature which is to activate the headlight and backlight during the day, just hold plus for a couple of seconds to turn it on. All things considered, the display delivers the features I like but is annoying to use after seeing so many other simpler, more intuitive designs. It doesn’t remove which means it will take more weather wear and potentially tampering at racks, but it does swivel to reduce glare. Many of my friends put their helmets over their displays or a glove to hide it. There’s not USB or Mini-USB charging port to fill your phone or other portable electronics even though the lower-end TranzX display does have this. It’s the one area of the bike that seems a little outdated, but at least the button pad is easy enough to reach and seems well sealed against water.

Instead of celebrating the value price point of the IZIP E3 Dash I found myself nitpicking the minor inconveniences and feeling concerned about the lack of shift sensing and motor inhibitors on the cadence sensing drive system. As a reviewer, I get hyperfocused on details because many of these electric bikes are so similar and polished now. You save money with the IZIP E3 Dash, get the support of a larger international company (the Accell Group), have access to a wide network of dealers, get the multiple frame sizes and all of the safety and utility extras that you could want that look great and work pretty well. I think the systems actually work quite well and while the chain may wear a bit faster, this is not a difficult part to replace. I feel like the boost button is a missed opportunity and has been nerfed, taking away the value of starting from standstill, but at least it’s an option at all. For someone who commutes, this would be a solid platform and I suppose the final gripe is that the rack doesn’t accommodate as much weight (about 40 lbs vs. 55 lbs on a lot of others) but again, it looks good and uses standard gauge tubing. It’s good enough. With the addition of a suspension seatpost and proper use of the RockShox Paragon Air fork, this can be a comfortable, enjoyable ebike. I’d like to thank IZIP for partnering with me on this post and inviting me to their headquarters to ride different models back to back. I believe I was riding the size Medium 17″ frame for this review.


  • The IZIP E3 Dash has long been a favorite electric bike model for me because the price is reasonable and you get a lot of useful accessories like fenders and lights, this model is a Class 3 speed pedelec so it’s useful for commuters who need to get to work quickly
  • The IZIP ebikes use a CAN bus system that allows the different electronic components to communicate with each other, making maintenance much easier for shops because the system can tell if something is wrong
  • The display has deeper settings which allow you to raise or lower the amperage which increases or decreases the feeling of power (and in turn, uses more or less electricity from the battery)
  • Considering that this is a speed pedelec, it’s great to see a suspension fork with decent travel (65 mm) and it’s an air fork so it doesn’t raise the weight of the bike very much, it can be locked out
  • The Kenda Kuick Bitumen tires are wider than road tires which improve traction and increases air volume for comfort… but they run at a higher PSI which means that you might want to swap the saddle or add a 31.6 mm seat post suspension to further improve comfort
  • Being seen is increasingly important if you ride on streets with cars frequently and since this is designed for urban environments, I love that they went with a silver paint color and have integrated front and rear lights (the headlight has windows on the side so you can be seen easier as well as see where you’re going)
  • The bike comes in three different frame sizes to dial in fit for a range of riders (tall or short)
    and the top tube and seat tube are fairly low for a diamond “high-step” frame
  • Because the motor controller uses cadence sensing instead of torque, you don’t have to push very hard to get it going but you might not get the same range and fluid feel that some other ebikes offer… it’s a trade off but their system works pretty well
  • I like that IZIP is offering a 10-speed drivetrain here given the wide range of speeds (up to 28 mph assisted) and that the chainring has an alloy guide to reduce chain drops and keep your pants from touching the chain
  • Excellent frame balance with both the motor and battery positioned low and center, this improves handling and since the battery is removable it also makes it easier to mount on center-hang racks
  • The center of the frame is fairly open and they managed to squeeze in a pair of bottle cage bosses along the seat tube, so many ebikes (especially mid-level products) don’t have these and I find them useful for fluids, mini-pumps, and locks
  • The rear rack uses standard gauge tubing and should be compatible with a wide range of trunk bags and panniers, the fenders look great and offer good coverage, and I love the kickstand choice and mounting position because it stays clear of the pedals
  • I like that the battery pack has a sort of built-in handle at the top so you can carry it more securely, this is useful if you bring the pack inside to charge during the day if you work in an office etc.
  • At ~53 lbs with the battery, I would consider this to be a relatively light weight electric bike because it does have a suspension fork, fenders, alloy platform pedals, and a rack
  • Both wheels have quick release and the drivetrain is not changed by this being an electric bike (the way hub motor powered ebikes are) so you can do maintenance and change flats a lot easier, shops may feel more comfortable working on this bike as well
  • Custom tubing work with internally routed cables and some extra supports at the base of the battery mount, it looks very nice and I like that the battery slides out from the side vs. clipping-in up and down because you’re less likely to bump the frame when mounting/removing it
  • The rear wheel uses a 12 mm thru-axle that’s stronger and stiffer than a standard 9 mm skewer and I noticed that the spokes are slightly thicker as well, 13 gauge
  • One of the menus in the display panel is range estimate and I think this is much more useful than the five bar battery infographic, it’s cool to change power levels and see how it impacts range on the fly
  • I think you can work with your local IZIP dealer to actually change the top assisted speed on this bike so you don’t have to go the full 28 mph if you don’t want to… of course you can always just use a lower level of assist and not shift gears which will influence how fast you go as well


  • This model is only available in high-step which means it could be difficult to mount for some people with shorter inseams, especially if you’ve got bags added to the rear rack
  • The TranzX motor is positioned well (low and center on the frame) and it offers good power but it does not deliver shift sensing and could mash the gears if you don’t shift thoughtfully, this is especially true because it uses a cadence sensor vs. a shift sensor
  • It’s neat that IZIP offers a throttle button option but I don’t enjoy using it very much because you have to reach over with your thumb and hold the button constantly to make the motor go, the rubberized buttons appear to be well sealed against water but aren’t super easy to push and my hand gets tired, also, it doesn’t work from standstill (you must be going ~2 mph) so that defeats the point for me
  • You get 180/160 mm hydraulic disc brakes from Shimano which offer solid stopping power but I was surprised to not see motor inhibitors built in, this used to be very common for cadence sensing ebikes but I guess they feel the motor responds quickly enough to not require them now
  • The display panel is fairly large, easy to use, and adjustable in terms of angle but it is not removable which means it could take more abuse when left outside at the rack and people could tamper with the bike if your battery is left in
  • I was a little surprised to see that the maximum recommended weight for the rear rack is 18 kg vs.
    25 kg on most other racks, perhaps this is because it has a light wired in or is paired with fenders? Maybe it has to do with the high-speed operation of the bike?
  • The fenders look great but I noticed a bit of rattling noise during my test ride, I don’t think the rear fender has as many support arms as some others I’ve seen and plastic just isn’t as solid as Aluminum but it also doesn’t bend as easily and won’t rust like Steel
  • Powering the bike on is a two-step process, you have to press a power button near the left base of the battery pack and then press another power button on the display… so if you forget the first step, you might have to get off or strain to reach way down which is annoying
  • If you hold the power button for a second (while the bike is on) it will take you from the 1-4 levels of pedal assist down to zero… which is kind of neat (you could ride with the motor off but the lights on for safety if you’re low on power) but it can also be confusing when you want to turn the bike off… it’s like another two-step process where you have to hold the power button twice just like turning the bike on
  • There’s no USB or Micro-USB port on this display or button pad to charge your phone or other electronic devices, some of the simpler non-LCD displays from TranzX now offer this so it’s a bummer that the really nice display does not


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  • MSRP: $1,899
  • MODEL YEAR: 2009

A relaxed, comfortable and stable cruiser style electric bike with integrated downtube-battery that keeps weight low and center. Smooth torque sensing pedal assist is responsive but requires more care when working on the…...

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San Diego Fly Rides
8 hours ago

Yay! A new e-biker! I definitely understand the concern about the bike getting stolen. I'd second Dewey's recommendations. We use ABUS folding locks at our shop and I use the New York U-lock for personal usage.

In terms of bikes you might be interested in, I'd be less concerned about weight more about it being the right size. It sounds like you want something with that's easy to mount and dismount, so stick to step-thru frames (also sometimes called low-step) or wave frames. I'd start by checking out the Bulls Cross Lite E or the Bulls Lacuba Evo E8. These are both bikes that are great on hills and great from stops. Basically, you're looking for a higher torque to accelerate more quickly out of the gate. Both Bosch and Brose motors offer higher torques. If you want something a bit cheaper, check out the IZIP Dash. Still a great commuter bike, but definitely going to save you some money.

I'd say the ultimate in security would be to take the bike into work with you, so you might also want to consider some foldable options. Most foldable electrics can easily fit underneath a desk. This way it's with you all day. My favorites are the Blix Vika+ and the Tern Vektron. Let us know if you have any questions!

Ann M.
1 day ago

Sad to say, @Mark Peralta, IZip has had a couple of stupendous sales in early June and the 2015 Dash's are wiped out :(. Really liked the hub motor version better than the mid drive....but gotta move on!

Mark Peralta
2 days ago

The ST2 was AMAZING!! It is exactly the feeling I was looking for. I couldn't believe how fine tune-able it was. It was super easy to "fly" on that thing but it's 7K!!! What is it about the ST2 that achieves such a nice feel and why aren't there any other bikes with the same ride feel! The bike was definitely heavy and I felt the weight but it can just take off! The shop also told me about the ST1X but they didn't have one to test ride it.

For sure. The shop is offering me a brand new Quick.E for 2.5K. The stromer ST2 is 7K. They didn't have a program where I could rent the ST2. It really is a hard decision to make with only a 30 minute test ride. I never thought I would one day contemplate spending 7K on a bike but here we are!

You can only get that "continuous acceleration feeling" on hub driven ebikes since there is no power interruption when shifting. If 7k is too much for you, then you may certainly try the St1. Other hub driven options that you may be interested in are the following:

OHM Urban or Sport
BULLS Outlaw E45
Easy motion Nitros
Magnum Peak
Juiced Bikes CrossCurrent
leftover Specialized turbos
leftover 2015 Izip E3 Dash

Good luck!

4 days ago

I just got my motor replaced on my Dash, which I owned for less than 30 days before it pooped out. After almost two weeks waiting for a replacement motor it came, but my bike shop didn't bother to get me the headlight I need (snapped off wire after clipping cables coming from display when display was tilted down) or do a bunch of other stuff they said they'd do, and now I'm having a weird problem.

While riding all of a sudden when I stopped pedaling the motor was still going. I tried to stop it and it ended up moving the pedals, cranks and chainwheel backwards, instead of just the pedals and cranks. Now it pedals backwards and even when the battery is off it makes a whirring sound in the motor like it's running (I know it's not running, it just sounds like it).

I ran the diagnostics and the values are all just a tad off and the cadence sensor only registers when I use the boost button, which makes me think there's some sort of problem with at least the cadence sensor mechanism and possibly the bottom bracket. The OBD reading designates a motor replacement is needed.

I am furious, I don't understand this, and I don't want to deal with my bike shop - I'm the first ebike customer there and they act like I'm a royal pain in the ass simply because I know more about this stuff than them because I've researched it. Plus I get the feeling they screwed something up on the install - all of the motor mount bolts are stripped up and nasty looking - the job looks really, really amaterurish and this bike has become a money pit of regret that I can't afford.

Does anyone have any knowledge of what may be the issue? Is there a way I can contact someone at IZIP and bypass my dealer because they aren't helping me with a thing.

1 week ago

I am about 2500 miles deep into my 2014 Izip Dash. Haven't posted here in a while, but when I was early on in my ebike investigation and ownership I spent a good deal of time pouring over these pages and left impressed by the community's knowledge and commitment. So I wade in again in need of some real help, advice and guidance.

I purchased my a Dash at a local shop where I'd purchased bikes, accessories and services over the years. When I saw the Dash on their showroom floor I fell hard and purchased a few weeks later. My first 1000 miles were sublime. I was able to turn my commute into a sweatless event (my main purchase priority), although I soon found myself using it for weekend rides and explorations. Even my wife ultimately got on board and "authorized" the purchase of a (slightly) used Path+ for her and she loves it. And we love riding together. We've used them to tour NYC, Asheville, Charleston, the coasts of Florida and Maine to name just a few.

Unfortunately, many of those memories are marred by persistent problems with my Dash (the motor on my wife's Path+ failed but was replaced under warranty and has been fine since). I have been through two bottom brackets, a rear wheel, and a new motor over many too many service trips, customer service calls and emails. Yet here I sit, with trips to Pittsburgh, Burlington, and Montreal on the horizon and the bike is in the garage broken - again! (I acknowledge the "1st World" nature of my "problems", but it's where I live and what I'd like to change! Wah wah wah!)

Let me say: I love the bike. I have serious miles in my legs (including three 200+ mile-in-a-day endurance rides). Never have I ridden a more stable platform. I have upgraded the disk brakes and added fenders, rack, file cut tires and a few accessories. Izip customer service and warranty decisions have been excellent - in fact fantastically beyond expectation. I even got a few email responses from the Larry, the president of the company.

So with that background out of the way, I am currently in search of a well-experienced, knowledgeable and capable repair shop or independent mechanic who can help me sort this out. Currently the motor engages only occasionally in response to pedal stroke or pressure. For the past few months I decided to settle by riding with throttle only, but even in "T" the motor now cuts out when pedal effort increases (hills). I have several error codes and blank screens that get thrown intermittently and my odometer recently cleared back to "0" for some reason.

Chawn from Izip technical/warranty support has been great. He had provided every possible assistance. My limitations are the time, skills and tools necessary to carry out his suggestions. So I need a referral to a a shop or mechanic where I can take the bike for that "once-and-for-all" fix. Anywhere within a reasonable drive from northeast New Jersey. The mechanic to whom my local shop deferred to on the ebike repairs has left and I think I need to move on anyway.

Thanks for your interest and in advance for your reply.

PS - I recently learned Izip was running an incredible sale by offering a 2015 model for under $1,000. I almost pulled the trigger but I can't yet accept that I need to spend that kond of money again in order to restore the joy when I believe that in the right hands my wonderful ride can be healed. Peace and thanks.

1 week ago

MY 2014 Izip Dash has s*it the bed and I need to find a no nonsense, capable and knowledgeable shop in my area. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance.

Mark Peralta
1 week ago

Basing on my experience on 3 ebikes, it needs at least 300 watts plus your own pedal power to reach 28 MPH.

Ebike #1, 500 watt direct hub drive (2015 Izip Dash). I keep the assist level in 2 (~ 300-ish watts?) out of 4 and sometimes 3 (~400 watts?) to keep my speed above 20 mph and then hit 26-28 mph on some slight down hills.

Ebike #2, 350 watt mid drive (2015 Raleigh Tekoa). I keep the assist level in 3 (~ 300-ish watts?) out of 4 to keep my speed above 20 mph and also hit 26-28 mph on some slight down hills.

Ebike #3, 1,000 watt mid drive (BBSHD 2015 Giant Stance 2). I keep the assist level in 3 (I programmed PAS-3 at 350 watts ) to keep my speed above 20 mph. In this case, I can sustain longer high speed rides of 28 mph due to the higher wattage and I don't have range anxiety on this ebike since it also has a much higher battery capacity.

2 weeks ago

I recently bought the 2016 Dash on sale for $1499 and wish I had sprung for a higher quality motor like on the Bulls bikes. The TranzX motor on the Dash uses a cadence sensor, which is way less fun to ride than a good torque sensing motor. Court just posted on the 2017 IZIP Peak, which uses a Bosch mid-drive. He said it compares well to the budget Bulls option.

2 weeks ago

After a week or two riding the Dash, I've come to appreciate some of its strengths. The mid-drive motor is much more efficient and more powerful up hills than my other bike with the hub motor, despite similar nominal wattage. The integrated lights and rack are nice too. Its plenty zippy. And I've gotten used to the shifting, as you guys suggested. It's counterintuitive to stop pedaling for a full second before shifting, but it's not that bad.

Unfortunately, my wife doesn't like the feel of the cadence sensor and she feels the motor makes her go faster than she wants to go, even on low assist. I'll probably keep it around for a while in case she gets used to it and as a backup bike for my commute for days when I want an easier ride. It's actually not a bad bike, I just prefer a torque sensor.

Now the 2017 Peak+ and the similar Bulls model that both have the Bosch mid-drive look awesome, even if they top out at 20 mph.

2 weeks ago

Bummer, Jax. I've been pretty happy with my '16 Dash. It took me a few miles to learn how to pause while shifting, but she's smooth sailing now. I can commute faster and more often than even before I broke my hip. Are you going to sell it and buy something else?

2 weeks ago

Many of you may have heard of the Xiaomi QiCycle. It's a 250 watt front hub drive foldable. Battery is 5.8 amp/hour based on Panasonic 18650 cells. Currently, it isn't available in the USA, but someone decided to import and sell on Amazon, so I bought one. Fit and finish are outstanding, but it is a 220V 50Hz charging system. The seller promised a step-up transformer, but it wasn't in the package. I bought my own, and the seller credited the price back to me. The transformer arrives today, so I plan on posting more information after a few rides.

I still have my first generation Currie E3 Dash, and it's still a much better bike for longer trips, but a small foldable with >20 mile range should be very handy.

More Info:

It cost $800......

3 weeks ago

Our iZips both have the TransX mid-drive motor. I was unable to locate a crevice on the bottom of either motor. It doesn't make sense that they would manufacture it that way.

They didn't manufacture it that way. The casing isn't solid, it's two halves. If you hit something, or if something kicks up and smacks the bottom of the motor at 28mph - there's going to be a chance something could crack. As I addressed earlier, I wish I had purchased the 2017 model because the frame wraps around the motor.

I was wondering if the dirt inside the casing was normal, if it's okay for dust to get inside the motor casing or if it's a problem. And crevice was a bad choice of words, I meant that where the casing halves meet, there's a gap between them that allows dust to get in. Maybe it was manufactured that way. If my bike wasn't in the shop I'd snap a pic.

I'm just trying to figure out all this. Whether the dust/dirt is normal or not. If it's not, izip should specify that the Dash is a pavement only bike. I live in Iowa, lots of salt/sand on roads from winter and few bike lanes. If a motor crapped out in less than a month, I'd like to know as much as possible about it so I can avoid it happening again.

Matt A
4 weeks ago

That is what I like about the layered approach to bike security. You can add additional complexity and time to snatch a bike to either slow down or make the thief move to an easier target. If someone wants the bike, they will get it no matter how much $$$ we spend on locks, chains, or GPS devices. Every product has bad reviews. I just try to read as many as I can to get a feel to see if the negatives will be a downside on how/where/when I plan on using the security. I don't have a need to leave my bike in the open unattended area for hours/days except when at a hotel on the road. I also have a front/rear dash cam on my SUV and my USAA home owner's insurance covers me at $500 per incident at home or away.

I would adjust my security if I had a +$5,000 (e)bike. I'm satisfied my level of security is inline with my area of travel in the southwest.

I even noticed on my Saris SuperClamp Freedom 4 bike rack wasn't secured enough for me because the horizontal arm for the bikes are only secured by two bolts. You just need a adjustable wrench and Allen wrench to take the whole arm off with both bikes still attached and toss in the back of a pick-up. I had a local shop weld 12,000 lbs D-rings to the rack arm and I secure my locks/chains/cable to that also.

The two D-rings on center arm (you can see the two nuts/bolts on either rack arm):
Yeah with that layered approach you described initially, no ones stealing your bike thats for sure. Your way is clearly successful since you still have your bike! I unfortunately am in a high theft city, so I wanted to do the best possible I could. I really appreciate the Pitlock bolts and just securing components in general because it allows me to quickly lock the top tube to the rack nice and easy. I just want some peace of mind, we are protecting $15,000 worth of bicycle, so it's great to feel confident that it can be secured just by locking the top tube each time. Anyone can steal a bike if they want it, I pay for Velosurance because I know no lock is completely secure, and I have to protect my investments. They would not be easily replaced! One stolen bike would negate any overall savings from just using a car.

That is a really cool solution for your bike rack!! I had a naked roof so I bought the high end Yakima roof system and Rockymounts crossbars so they could handle two 60 pound bikes, and it too can be disassembled with an allen key. The only thing blocking access to the bolts is a hard plastic cover over the bolts with some piece of crap locking cores! For this reason, I can never leave the bikes on the car out of sight. I have never had to do this yet, but it would be nice to secure it better. I couldn't weld a D-Ring to my roof but maybe I can use the long chain and lock the bikes to my steering wheel through a slightly open sunroof. Now that would be funny!

4 weeks ago

That is what I like about the layered approach to bike security. You can add additional complexity and time to snatch a bike to either slow down or make the thief move to an easier target. If someone wants the bike, they will get it no matter how much $$$ we spend on locks, chains, or GPS devices. Every product has bad reviews. I just try to read as many as I can to get a feel to see if the negatives will be a downside on how/where/when I plan on using the security. I don't have a need to leave my bike in the open unattended area for hours/days except when at a hotel on the road. I also have a front/rear dash cam on my SUV and my USAA home owner's insurance covers me at $500 per incident at home or away.

I would adjust my security if I had a +$5,000 (e)bike. I'm satisfied my level of security is inline with my area of travel in the southwest.

I even noticed on my Saris SuperClamp Freedom 4 bike rack wasn't secured enough for me because the horizontal arm for the bikes are only secured by two bolts. You just need a adjustable wrench and Allen wrench to take the whole arm off with both bikes still attached and toss in the back of a pick-up. I had a local shop weld 12,000 lbs D-rings to the rack arm and I secure my locks/chains/cable to that also.

The two D-rings on center arm (you can see the two nuts/bolts on either rack arm):

Zach Hannibal
4 weeks ago

I recently ordered a set of shimano hydraulic brakes for my 2015 izip Dash, what are my options for removing or not using the built in mechanical brake inhibitors?

Cameron Newland
4 weeks ago

I have just got my 2016 Mid Drive IZIP dash and am experiencing a similar issue. I was riding in PAS 2 for most of the way, but then increased to 3 & 4 for the hills. When I went back down to 2 it seemed like the motor was dragging and holding me back (I was going about 20 mph at this point), I therefore had to put it back into 3 to get it spinning again. This seemed to happen once I had gone 10 miles plus when all the mechanicals had heated up. Riding in PAS 3 for long periods may be an issue as I have an 18 mile commute (one way) and being a smaller battery I have to conserve it as much as possible, especially as it loses power (I am thinking to the future).

Battery degradation is a problem that affects IZIP S-pedelecs far more than bikes from other brands. My 2015 IZIP E3 Dash has seen its range cut in half, from ~40 miles to ~20 miles, after ~3,000 miles. The display indicates a range at full charge of 31 miles, but that's unrealistically optimistic. Most IZIP S-pedelecs come with a 13S3P 48V battery that isn't up to the task of reliably cruising at 28MPH without degrading the battery quickly. If they had outfitted them with 13S4P batteries (adding an additional bank of 13 battery cells), not only would you get 33% greater range than with a 13S3P, your pack's cycle life would approximately double.

On some of the Easy Motion bikes I've ridden that have similar-sized (417Wh) batteries, they top out at around 25MPH, which helps to preserve the battery by limiting discharge current to ~15A/36V, whereas a lot of the IZIPs will draw ~20A@48V to cruise at 30MPH, and their battery heats up and degrades quickly at that level of discharge current.

Colorado Colin
4 weeks ago

I have just got my 2016 Mid Drive IZIP dash and am experiencing a similar issue. I was riding in PAS 2 for most of the way, but then increased to 3 & 4 for the hills. When I went back down to 2 it seemed like the motor was dragging and holding me back (I was going about 20 mph at this point), I therefore had to put it back into 3 to get it spinning again. This seemed to happen once I had gone 10 miles plus when all the mechanicals had heated up. Riding in PAS 3 for long periods may be an issue as I have an 18 mile commute (one way) and being a smaller battery I have to conserve it as much as possible, especially as it loses power (I am thinking to the future).

1 month ago

I'm only seeing error code 1, I haven't gotten the diagnostics to work. If I'm not mistaken you hold the +/- buttons for 10 secs, correct? I've done that but it doesn't seem to do anything. I'm bringing it into my LBS tomorrow and hoping for the best on warranty coverage.

I should point out that the Dash is a fantastic bike, an absolute blast to ride. To those thinking about one, had I known what I know now, I would have bought the 2017 model despite the price difference. The 2017 model addresses the two biggest concerns/problems I've had - the semi-integrated battery holds it in place and doesn't allow rattle (which I worry has done unknown damage to my battery, as it has vibrated and rattled enough to dislodge pins in the battery mount) and the frame is built around the motor, protecting it from possible impacts and dirt/debris.

I put my bike up to get a look at the bottom of the motor and there is a gap that was letting dirt and dust in and from what I can see the inside of the casing is just caked with dirt.

Another thing to watch for is the wires that come off the handlebars and off the display. I tilted the display down once at night and the wires clipped the headlight while turning, bending the fender and separating the light wiring. The 2017 Dash has its headlight mounted just underneath the display on the bars, so that isn't an issue.

I'm bummed I can't ride my bike, I just got it this month, I'm nervous about the warranty - you never know how things are going to be covered. With the battery mount issue I think I'll need a whole replacement of motor (unless it's just a wiring issue) and a new battery and mount, and that's a tall order so fast after purchase but I don't want to pay $800 for a new battery down the line because this one has been rattling around the whole time.

The Dash also has fantastic geometry. The rise on the top tube helps gives the bike amazing stability when making sharp turns, I can zip around really effectively zigging and zagging, I don't know if that's just a feeling I have or a design either way it's awesome.

Hopefully I can get back on the road quick.

Ann M.
1 month ago

Sorry to hear that you're having issues on that Dash, @Hookwormer29. Were you able to run the onboard diagnostics? Let us know what you find out from your shop.

1 month ago

My 2016 E3 Dash I bought on 5/3 had a pin on the battery mount offset, now the motor has just - pfft -- quit.

I'll let you know if the service works out for me. So far, I'm very much regretting my purchase.

Mark Peralta
1 month ago

Looking as to where the freshest and least cost battery exists. Also here in NJ as to where to get one. And who can rebuild the original one for a spare. Expected costs. Optional increase in configuration like ah etc. is this something to consider or just stay with OEM?
Finally might consider just getting a new 2017 with Bosch motor style newer version of iZip or similar if a shop accepts trade in and offers a decent price.
Sooner than later replies would be greatly appreciated. Existing battery is fine it's just that I'm approaching 2 years 4000 miles and although I've replaced the tires casette and chain I'm wanting to be pro active rather than reactive.
I searched all over the internet and it is very hard to get IZIP OEM replacement battery, not until most recently. It is also a proprietary battery with different voltage output at different pins. So those generic batteries won't work. I read somewhere that a guy used a generic battery but the PAS control does not work and the display does not work. For me, to keep my ebike working like new, I had to use OEM battery, and am glad that's what I did. The battery is priced at $599.
It is priced more expensively at other sites.
Last year There was none available but I was able to negotiate with a store in California to buy the battery from an Izip displayed on the show room. Later, I also purchased a highly discounted Raleigh Tekoa with the same battery. Now, I have 2 ebikes that share the same battery but 3 batteries all in all.

1 month ago

So the question is what are some good new bikes that might have more torque in conquering hills?
Last winter, I purchased a used iZip E3 Dash for my daughter. When trying it out, I went up some extremely steep hills in West Seattle (and I weigh ~250 lbs) and was very impressed. I presume this is a function of having a mid-drive and being able to take advantage of the gearing. iZip is currently closing out 2016 models for $1499 and I can't imagine a better overall e-bike value. https://izipelectric.com/electric-bikes/sale/e3-dash-2016. It looks like Portland has a iZip dealer. Hope this helps.

1 month ago

I may be looking for a unicorn: an ebike under $2k that prioritizes distance over speed; front shocks; 48v and can support a Clydesdale. Removable lcd and bottle cage is a plus. Don't care about fenders; care about reliability.

Last year I purchased a Diamondback Trace ex from REI, but returned it because of a problem with the sensor and less than zero in-store/corporate support. I've heard REI and Diamondback isn't selling ebikes any longer. I think the eparts were bolt on Currie.

How I will use the ebike: commuting/errands around town; riding along the American River Parkway and other bike trails; fire roads in the Santa Cruz Mountains (not technical paths); stretch goals: Highway One between San Francisco and San Jose, maybe multi-day trekking

Izip E3 Dash Electric Bike - 2016 - correct price and voltage, but it has a small amp battery

Pedegos are great, the City Commuter is close, but are way over my budget, especially with the extended. battery, but doesn't have a front fork suspension. Old Sacramento dealer is a respected LBS in the area.

Haibike SDURO Trekking 4.0 Low Step - nearly perfect, but budget buster

Haibike Sduro TREKKING SL EBIKE - nearly perfect, "only" $300 over max, max budget

Felt Verza-e 10 - nearly perfect, but budget buster. A senior citizen used one to bike across the country.

I'm open to a used ebike, depending on seller and condition.

Your thoughts?


Mark Peralta
1 month ago

The assist kicks on and off frequently and jerkily. As opposed to my CrossCurrent, which makes you feel like you're riding a bike, just with superpowers, the Dash felt like riding a bike equipped with a poorly responsive motor (like stepping on the gas pedal and suddenly getting powerful acceleration a half second later).

I can relate to that experience. I got a 2015 Tekoa which has the same mid drive as the 2016 Dash. Coming from the old 2015 Dash that has direct drive rear hub motor, the mid drive felt less refined, very jerky, and harsh on the drive train esp on shifting. I later learned to adapt to it and added magnets to the left brake lever to make it more responsive at the slightest tap in order to cut off the motor on shifting (like using a clutch on a dirt bike).

After I got acquainted to it, I later appreciated the positive sides (better battery mileage, better climber, more balanced weight distribution, lighter overall weight, etc)

4 weeks ago

Its crazy that this motor that has 100 watts more than my haibike Yamaha... has less power...

4 weeks ago

Marketers right? :D
I must say im super happy with my AllMtn SL. Its the lower end of haibike but still at 2700 it was quite pricey! But the yamaha motor is very impressive, it has so much power its unreal. Shame about the 15.5mph restrictor (which was super easy to hack with an arduino and electromagnet). The power output is fine but to me it sounds like the power to torque conversion is a lot worse on this bike. I get about 70nm on my yamaha, which is plenty. If I ride it on tarmac with my restrictor on and decent hybrid wheels I can ride about 30mph quite comfortably. Though I think the haibike could benefit from a bigger chainring at the front. Because as you know if it doesnt detect you pushing it wont push either :)
Anyway im waffling, thanks for another good video.

4 weeks ago

Yeah, some of it is misleading... watts vs. amps being sent through? I use torque ratings a bit more now but also try to explain how it feels and show on video. Yamaha still makes an awesome mid-drive and their new one will offer higher RPM output (up to 120 like Bosch and Brose)

F r e e l e e
4 weeks ago

Why are batteries still put on the frame as an after thought in this day and age.

4 weeks ago

I think it reduces the cost and makes it easier to mount. More and more ebikes are putting them in the downtube or hiding them better, will be posting some of those shortly

4 weeks ago

Hi Court! You inspired me to buy an electric bike. I'm on the heavy side and I live in an area with a lot of hills and really almost no flat roads. Didn't ride bikes since I moved here 7 years ago. I hope my new bike that should ship next week will help me be more active and outside. :) Bought an Cube Reaction Hybrid HPA Race 500. Would love to see a review from you on that one. Hope it was the right decision to get that one. Did an test ride at a shop today and had a blast! Thanks for your videos. Best greetings from Germany! Have a nice weekend. :) Edit: Also a little suggestion for your website. Would be nice if you add filters to show where they are available (EU, US and so on). Also would be nice if it would be possible to type in price ranges instead of using that slider which isn't really precise.

Will Nettles
4 weeks ago

15:50 -- 15:56 the amazing backward, then stationary chain! It's a frame rate affect, but it looks real. How soon will you have a drone flying in circles?
And watch those dangling straps on your day bag. Anything that can get hooked, will get hooked in the worse possible way. Don't go Isadora Duncan on us.

Dezső Nagy
4 weeks ago

how musch is ebike, and sipped to me in Ireland? cost all?

Arnold Winters
4 weeks ago

Court, the Dash has no slap guard but the chain is high and since this is a commuter you won't get too much bounce.

I bought the Voltbike ENDURO based on your review. I expect delivery from WA on June 2nd. I will let you know how my experience is. So far George in Canada has been very nice and we had good communication. THANKS.

4 weeks ago

Do a review on the "Carbon SUV Motoparilla", it's an interesting looking bike.


David White
4 weeks ago

25.99? Ooh! Cheap.......

4 weeks ago

Yeah, it's not cheap, but I try to offer a relative gauge like "cheap for these parts" or "cheap for this much power and warranty support" type of thing :)

Bruce Ballad
1 month ago

Throttle option is a must and this bike has it. Cool bike with nice ride. I just dislike this type of battery packs for the looks. People often unnecessarily comment when they see those.

4 weeks ago

Yeah, we're right at the edge of integrated battery packs... I just reviewed a few more that are completely built in or hidden on the frame. Keep an eye out, will post soon :)

1 month ago

Great review as usual. I did notice the front tire was installed with the tread rotation backwards. 53 LBS AND 10 gears, love it.

4 weeks ago

Good catch, looks like someone just put the tire onto the rim in the wrong direction

Luis Figueroa
1 month ago

Nice to have an air fork on an e-bike. I love how clean the bike looks and having those fenders won't stop you from going faster even if it is wet or raining. Btw, I've been looking for one of your videos where you were riding with a friend with a really cool helmet that looks like a hat. I couldn't find the video. I ended up buying that helmet and love it. I wear it everyday at work and everyone loves it. I loved your "Living in a Car" video. Soon I will take the whole summer off and will try to ride as many trails as I can with my brother. I want to go to Bentonville AR, Moab UT, Colorado, Ashville NC. It will be amazing. I love your channel and keep doing what you love.

4 weeks ago

Hey, thanks, Luis! It sounds like you've got an incredible summer planned, good for you, get out there and have a blast :D

Mark H.
1 month ago

What is the best $3500.00 e-bike?

Mark H.
4 weeks ago

ElectricBikeReview.com Will do ! thank you

4 weeks ago

Hey Mark, that's a really big question because there are so many types... try using the advanced search back at the site and setting the max to 3501 https://electricbikereview.com/ there are lots more reviews coming... like 30+ that I have filmed and will be posting

George Herman
1 month ago

So mid drive seems to be the most popular drive systems now. What happens when they fail? Will you still be able to pedal home on your own power? And what about the ease and cost of repair? With a hub motor you can just replace the whole wheel. In other words which is more costly to repair or replace, the mid drive or the hub motor system?

George Herman
4 weeks ago

Thanks Court

4 weeks ago

Hey George, yeah, you can still pedal most mid-drive motors if they fail. They are designed to work even if the bike is off so it shouldn't be an issue. Repair is done by replacing the entire bottom bracket and I haven't heard of many situations where it was required, they just seem to be reliable. You do end up with more chain, sprocket and derailleur wear however. I'd say that mid-motors are probably more expensive to replace than hub motors but they usually have a good warranty and don't impact the spokes and rim the way that some hub motors do.

1 month ago

did you get to try any other bikes while you were there? I was looking at getting the peak +.

4 weeks ago

Yes indeed! I'll be posting that one shortly... it was my favorite in their entire line. Looks sweet and uses one of the best drive systems, Bosch

1 month ago

The paint flaked off on the aluminum rear fender on my new 2016 Dash E3, purchased in April of 2017 (had about 50 miles on it at the time). I contacted the seller about the problem, he contacted the distributor and I received a new set of replacement fenders in about a week. Customer service at the highest level.

4 weeks ago

Wow! That's awesome Tony, thanks for chiming in with some real world feedback :D

Grape Eyes
1 month ago

It looks like a cheap self build ebike. I will stick with my Haibike Hardnine 6.0

Grape Eyes
4 weeks ago

I was shocked how thick the frame was and the width of the tyres. But when I tested it, I understood why the bike was designed the way it is. It is very powerful and I get a lot of looks and comments from people. I could send you some pics if you wish?

4 weeks ago

Haibikes are definitely some of the BEST looking ebikes around, how do you like yours so far?

dmitry manzano
1 month ago

I've bought Bafang BBSHD mid drive motor on aliexpress and now I wait for the battery I've ordered which is 52v 17.5 ah 14s5p Sanyo GA cells. I'll use a pretty cheap but strong frame Bergamont Vitox 7.0 for becoming electric. I waited for this moment 3 years, can't wait. I've had just 2 hub motors bikes with 36 volts batteries before, they were pretty boring to ride.

1 month ago


1 month ago


1 month ago

I think the E3 stands for environment, electric, efficient or something. Is that what you were asking?!

Juan Noval
1 month ago

sweet looking bike

1 month ago

Yeah, this edition of the E3 Dash is one of my favorites in terms of looks :)