IZIP E3 Peak DS Review

2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Electric Bike Revew
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Bosch Powerpack 400 Battery
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Chain Lift Pulley Guide
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Bosch Intuvia Display Panel Removable
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Sram Guide Hydraulic Brake Levers Locking Velo Grips
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Rockshox Monarch Rt3
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds 200 Mm Front Disc Brake Rotor
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds 11 Speed Sram Nx
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Rockshox Reba Air Suspension Rear
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Vented Alloy Skid Plate For Motor
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Electric Bike Revew
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Bosch Powerpack 400 Battery
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Chain Lift Pulley Guide
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Bosch Intuvia Display Panel Removable
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Sram Guide Hydraulic Brake Levers Locking Velo Grips
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Rockshox Monarch Rt3
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds 200 Mm Front Disc Brake Rotor
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds 11 Speed Sram Nx
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Rockshox Reba Air Suspension Rear
2017 Izip E3 Peak Ds Vented Alloy Skid Plate For Motor


  • A value-driven full suspension electric cross country mountain bike with higher end drive system and components from Bosch, SRAM and RockShox, it's $300 cheaper than prior year with lots of upgrades
  • Beautiful hydroformed frame with inset battery mount and tapered head tube, the motor hangs down a little compared to some other designs I've seen with the Bosch motor but I love the alloy skid plate
  • Large grippy pedals performed well compared to the standard cages I see a lot and wouldn't need replacing, stiff thru-axles on both wheels with quick release, large hydraulic disc brakes with adjustable levers
  • Unique rear suspension design felt stiffer to me, white fork doesn't seem to match the rest of the frame and wasn't my favorite look, solid two-year warranty with a decent dealer network in the USA

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Video Review

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E3 Peak DS



Body Position:


Suggested Use:

Trail, Mountain

Electric Bike Class:

Pedal Assist (Class 1)
Learn more about Ebike classes


2 Year Comprehensive, Lifetime Frame


United States

Model Year:


Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

51.2 lbs (23.22 kg)

Battery Weight:

5.4 lbs (2.44 kg)

Motor Weight:

8.8 lbs (3.99 kg)

Frame Material:

6061 Aluminium Alloy, Hydroformed

Frame Sizes:

17 in (43.18 cm)19 in (48.26 cm)

Geometry Measurements:

Large: 19" Seat Tube, 31" Stand Over Height, 23" Reach, 76.5" Length

Frame Types:


Frame Colors:

Matte Black with White and Neon Green Accents

Frame Fork Details:

RockShox Reba Air Suspension with 120 mm Travel, Compression Clicker with Lockout, Rebound Clicker, 71° Slack Angle, 100 mm / 15 mm Thru-Axle with Quick Release

Frame Rear Details:

RockShox Monarch RT3 Air Suspension with 120 mm Travel, Compression Clicker with Lockout, Rebound Clicker, 142 mm / 12 mm Thru Axle with Quick Release

Attachment Points:

Threaded Eyelet on Fork Arch

Gearing Details:

11 Speed 1x11 SRAM NX Derailleur, 11-42 Cogset

Shifter Details:

SRAM NX Triggers on Right


Aluminum Alloy Cranks, 175 mm Length, 18T Narrow-Wide Chainring with Alloy Bash Guard, Chain Pulley Wheel NW with Plastic Guide


Aluminum Alloy Platform, Oversized with Adjustable Pins


FSA, Tapered 1-1/8" to 1-1/2"


Alloy, 6° Rise, 31.8 mm Bore, 90 mm Length


Alloy Flat, 720 mm Length

Brake Details:

SRAM Guide Hydraulic Disc with 200 mm Front Rotor and 180 mm Back Rotor, 4 Piston Calipers, SRAM Guide Levers with Tool-Free Adjustable Reach


Velo Flat Rubber, Locking


Velo Racing

Seat Post:

Aluminum Alloy, 73° Seat Tube Angle

Seat Post Length:

350 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

31.6 mm


Alexrims MD21, Alloy, Double Wall, 21 mm Width, 32 Hole


Stainless Steel, 14 Gauge, Black with Nipples

Tire Brand:

Kenda Honey Badger, 27.5" x 2.2"

Wheel Sizes:

27.5 in (69.85cm)

Tire Details:

30 to 50 PSI, 30 TPI Casing, Wire Bead

Tube Details:

Presta Valve


Rubber Slap Guard, Alloy Vented Motor Protector Skid Plate


Locking Removable Battery Pack, 1.6 lb 4 Amp Charger, SRAM PC1130 Chain

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:

Bosch Performance Line CX

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Geared Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

350 watts

Motor Torque:

75 Newton meters

Battery Brand:


Battery Voltage:

36 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

11 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

396 wh

Battery Chemistry:


Charge Time:

4 hours

Estimated Min Range:

30 miles (48 km)

Estimated Max Range:

65 miles (105 km)

Display Type:

Bosch Intuvia, Removable, Adjustable Angle, Grayscale, Backlit LCD


Speed, Assist Level (Eco, Tour, Sport, Turbo), Battery Level (1-5), Odometer, Trip Distance, Estimated Range, Clock, Max Speed, Average Speed, Trip Time, Shift Assist Recommendation

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pad with Tactile Feedback on Left (Up, i, Down), 5 Volt Micro USB Port on Display

Drive Mode:

Advanced Pedal Assist (Measures Wheel Speed, Pedal Cadence and Pedal Torque, Power Output Relative to Pedal Input: Eco 50% 40 Nm, Tour 120% 50 Nm, Sport 210% 60 Nm, Turbo 300% 75 Nm)

Top Speed:

20 mph (32 kph)

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Written Review

IZIP is one of the older electric bike companies operating in the United States, they’ve been a leader in the mid-level product space for several years and are now owned by the Accell Group which has Raleigh Electric and Haibike as well. It’s a company with good customer support, a solid network of dealers (mostly independent electric bike shops) and a whole range of products. The IZIP E3 Peak DS is at the top end of the spectrum with high-performance components from SRAM and light weight air suspension from RockShox. With 120 mm of travel, and 27.5″ x 2.2″ tires, this is more of a cross country style electric mountain bike. It’s very sturdy and serviceable thanks to 15 mm and 12 mm thru-axles with quick release and an oversized tapered head tube. And since it’s running a 1×11 drivetrain, shifting between gears is smoother (shorter jumps than 8 or 10) but you still get comfortable cadence options for climbing and riding fast. The top assisted speed is 20 mph and it’s easy to hit with the Bosch CX high torque motor. This motor offers software driven shift sensing as well, so the chain, sprockets and derailleur won’t take a beating. Further bolstering the drivetrain is an elevated chain pulley with surrounding guide and a narrow-wide tooth pattern on both the pulley cog and chainring sprocket. This system elevates the chain, reduces chain slap, eliminates kickback and chain slip. Hardware wise, I was very impressed with the new Peak DS and stunned by the price drop of $300 over prior-year model considering the upgraded motor and battery from Bosch vs. TranzX before. The older motor system just wasn’t as responsive or smart as this… still good, but not great.

The Bosch Performance Line CX motor offers 350 watts of nominal output but peaks above 550 and produces a maximum of 75 Newton meters of torque. That’s a lot, it’s exactly what you want for mountain biking and is capable of steep climbs. The motor weight is positioned low and center, mounted to an integrated plate that seamlessly connects it to the seat tube and downtube. More and more, I hear from shops that are specializing in Bosch powered ebikes because they are so reliable… but if it did fail, the motor can be replaced all at once, a new one bolted in place where the old one was. Thes motors aren’t silent but the high pitched whirring noise is mostly eclipsed by the knobby tires on pavement or hard packed Earth. instead of spinning a traditionally sized chainring (or chainrings) the sprocket is smaller (18 tooth) and spins roughly twice for every pedal rotation. This empowers the motor with a mechanical advantage and allows the chain to start and stop very quickly. It does not however, elevate the chain as a normal sprocket would and thus, the chain pully system is extra important. The motor controller measures rear wheel speed, pedal cadence and pedal torque 1,000 times per second and that makes it perfect for navigating unstable terrain where starting and stopping is critical.

Just like the motor, the battery is mounted low and center along the downtube of the frame. It’s actually inset slightly and blends in with the dark gray paint. With the Bosch Powerpack 400 and 500, you get convenience and access to the battery with quick removability but it’s not as hidden as the Brose batteries and some others from Easy Motion and other companies. You can charge the battery on or off the bike and it only weighs ~5.5 lbs so carrying it around by the plastic loop handle feels secure. The only consideration is with mounting and dismounting the pack because it’s sort of wedged below the top tube and rear suspension shock. The pack pops upwards and could collide with these other sections of the bike and get scratched… not a huge issue, but there definitely isn’t room for a bottle cage in there and the top tube might have been raised more than otherwise necessary to accommodate this battery design. Note also that the latest Bosch powerpack 500 is compatible with the interface here. What you get is the older more standard Bosch Powerpack 400 with roughly 396 watt hours of capacity. It’s a solid pack with excellent range, an integrated LED charge level indicator on the side and a solid locking core with metal slat to keep secure. One final compliment here goes to IZIP for their large rubber plug design that fits in to keep dust and water out of the charging port area on the left side of the downtube below the battery pack. It felt solid but wasn’t difficult to remove and would be easy to use with gloves on. So many other charge port covers are small, difficult to press in, prone to coming loose and just plain frustrating. The only catch here is that the plug doesn’t have any sort of connection to the frame and could get left behind if you set it down while charging.

Operation of the electronic systems on this bike feels professional and natural. Once the battery is charged and mounted, just press the power button on the lower left of the Bosch Intuvia display panel. From there, the screen flickers to life showing speed, a battery icon and an assist level chart with a little power graph next to it. This power graph jumps up and down as you pedal and helps to demonstrate how much energy the motor is using to give you support. I tend to ride in the second level of assist with quick jumps up to the highest level for climbing. Range can vary between 30 and 60 miles per charge which is very impressive for a mountain bike with knobby tires. The motor naturally works with you and requires pedaling to activate… but doesn’t quite as you pedal faster and faster. Some competing products seem to offer a limited RPM while Bosch is much wider. As a rider with hurt knees, I love being able to quickly reach over with my left thumb to arrow up or down on the button pad then immediately feel a boost of energy even while spinning quickly. I tend to go for cardio spinning vs. lumbering hard pushes due to my sensitivity and Bosch feels the best to me for this style. While the display is removable, it isn’t as small as some of the other options out there and might get scratched or broken off if you take a hard fall. For this reason, I sometimes take the display completely off before bombing a big descent. In addition to a soft backlight glow and the option to integrate LED lights with help from your dealer, the Intuvia display panel has a little Micro USB port on
the right side for charging a portable electronic device.

The experience I had with the IZIP E3 Peak DS was great, a big step up from the 2015 and 2016 models and on par with Haibike and other brands that also use Bosch. The biggest downside was style… the design and color scheme just didn’t excite me the way that some other models have and it seems like the white front fork didn’t match the gray and green frame. This is especially true when comparing to the 2015 model with red and black integrated throughout. When riding… I’d never notice and maybe a coat of trail dust would completely eliminate this vanity consideration. For the price, though it may sound high to someone new to the ebike space, I feel like you get a solid product here, very solid. And being able to choose from two frame sizes means you’ll get a bike that fits you and rides better. The dealer network cannot be overstated but given the reputation for reliability that Bosch has built in Europe and the USA it’s possible that you could buy this once from an ebike shop then have it serviced at any normal bicycle outlet. The wheels and shifting mechanisms are all standard bicycle hardware that won’t intimidate or require additional training to service. Big thanks to IZIP for partnering with me on this review and letting me hang out at their headquarters for a few days to see the new stuff :)


  • Significant motor and battery upgrade from the 2015 model, you get Bosch vs. TranzX which delivers shift sensing, a nicer motor integration (with alloy skid plate) and larger removable display panel yet it costs $300 less!
  • IZIP went above and beyond with their battery integration here, notice how the downtube is molded around the pack letting it inset and blend in at both the top and bottom
  • Unique rear suspension isolates vertical travel and felt stiffer to me, should handle the higher speeds of an electric bike well and is optimized for cross country riding from what I could tell
  • Awesome pedals, they’re large and stiff with great traction points (metal pins), way better than some of the prior-year cage style pedals in my opinion
  • Smart chain guide system with elevated pulley wheel designed to eliminate kickback and phantom shifting as the rear swing arm travels up and down, it also keeps the chain from dropping with a full-surround guide piece and raises it to reduce chain slap
  • The chain guide and chainring use narrow wide tooth patterns to prevent chain slip and rattling, the teeth on the cogs fit more snugly into the alternating chain links
  • Great rubber slap guard on the rear right chainstay, many bikes aiming to be affordable use a clear plastic sticker but this one felt higher quality and is probably more important on a dual suspension setup
  • Great choice of motor with the Bosch CX high-torque model, it offers 75 Nm of torque which is perfect for climbing and trail riding
  • Given that the Bosch system only currently offers a single front chainring option, I like that IZIP put an 11 speed cogset on this bike vs. 10, it helps you hit and maintain the 20 mph top speed comfortably while still climbing efficiently at low speeds given the 51.2 lb curb weight of the bike
  • Awesome hydraulic disc brakes with larger rotors (I found it strange that the front rotor is 200 mm vs. the more common 203 mm but perhaps it’s a SRAM thing vs. Shimano), the levers offer tool-free adjustable reach which is convenient
  • The bike is available in two different sizes, this is great for tall and short riders alike… especially given the diamond high-step frame design used to boost strength and accommodate the rear suspension
  • Sturdy thru-axle design for both the front and rear wheels, both offer quick release systems for easy trail maintenance or transport, overbuilt tapered head tube also adds stiffness for off-road riding strength
  • I like the rubber plug design they’ve created for the battery charge port on the left side of the frame, it’s large and stays put but be careful not to set it down and ride off without it (there’s no leash system to keep it with the bike)
  • Great internal routing on the shifter cables and braking mechanisms, the frame looks clean and won’t snag or bend as easily in rugged conditions
  • The Bosch battery charger is great, not only is it relatively light weight and compact but it puts out 4 Amps vs. 2 Amps on most other chargers so you can fill your bike faster
  • I love that both the battery pack and display can be locked to the frame but are also easily removable, this is convenient for moving the bike (to reduce weight) or if you need to park it outside and want to keep the sensitive bits nice
  • The display panel has a built-in Micro USB charging port on the left side, this could be useful for charging a light or keeping your phone topped off if you use Strava or another GPS app
  • Solid two-year warranty backed by larger companies (the Accell Group which owns IZIP and Bosch), there are also more dealers for this brand so you can maybe test ride it and get fitted locally


  • I don’t love the color scheme, the fork is bright white while the rest of the frame is dark gray with green accents, it just doesn’t look like it matches
  • Bosch has a new 500 watt hour battery pack that would take you further but the Peak DS comes with the older 400 watt hour (still great) probably to keep the cost down… the good news is that the mounting interface is forward compatible so you could upgrade later if you wanted
  • The battery pops “up” instead of sliding out to the sides and given the tight inner triangle of the frame here (especially with the rear suspension) it can be a little bit trickier to put on and off and I think it forces them to raise the top tube height which changes the stand over height of the bike
  • While the battery is easier to access for removal and is more standardized for future replacement, it isn’t as hidden as some other designs like those from Brose and people might know your bike is electric as a result, for mountain biking sometimes it’s nice to blend in more if you can


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Jim Taylor
9 months ago

So how would this bike compare with the Bull’s bike with the Bosch CX motor? Thanks

Court Rye
9 months ago

Hi Jim! There are several full suspension options from Bulls including ones with the Bosch CX and others with the Brose motor. If the drive system is the same I’d say the big differences will be wheel size, suspension design, frame sizes and a bit of geometry along with the look and price. Unfortunately, I’m not expert enough to dive too much deeper into the details of one frame vs. another but I always consider weight and stand over height when I choose an ebike. I hope this helps a little! Feel free to ask in the forums for more advice too :)


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Mark Peralta
7 mins ago

1. Looking further at the hub drive efficiency
2. Exploring for more ways to increase the motor efficiency
3.The pros and cons of positioning the motor at the crank.

A hub motor's efficiency loss at lower speed can be minimized by reducing the limit current from 50A to 30A. The start up torque and and power at low speed is slightly decreased but the peak power is still retained and most especially, the efficiency at lower speed is slightly increased (yellow green curve).

However, if the limit current is further decreased (for the sake of more efficiency), there won't be enough torque that is needed for the motor to start from a dead stop, or to climb hills.

If we really want to prioritize efficiency even if it means sacrificing torque and power output, then it won't be appropriate anymore as the original hub drive. However, it can still work in 2 ways. First is by the use geared hub and increase the gear ratio high enough for adequate start up torque and torque for the hills while sacrificing top speed. The second method is by relocation of the motor to the crank and then take full advantage of the multiple gear ratios from the drive train. We will continue by exploring the second method, which is the mid drive. But first, we will further expand the efficiency of the motor at the expense of decrease in power.

A huge reduction of the limit current from 50A all the way to 12A further broadens the efficiency band of the motor (peak power goes down from 750W down to 450W). On this new power curve (light blue curve) The peak motor power coincides with the peak efficiency of the motor (in contrast to the 50A and 30A, where the peak motor power and peak efficiency are at different motor speeds). The start up torque and torque at low speed is not that important anymore since it is channeled through the drive train. However, this is in exchange for mandatory downshifts at the stops and hills. All in the attempt to increase efficiency.
In this example, the same hub motor is used and applied as a mid drive. The gear reduction at the crank is strategically chosen so that it will coincide with the cyclist's normal cadence range (~ 70-90PRM) . As long as the rider pedals within the normal cadence range (yellow window), the motor will operate at peak efficiency all the time, conserving energy and increasing the range of the battery. Notice the new power curve at 12A (light blue curve at the chart above) is similar to the Bosch and Shimano power curve on the chart below.

A similar simulation is found here with the hub drive with standard controller

And then the limit current is reduced to 12A and comaparing between the two.

With the new power curve at 12A, the speed is changed to cadence (RPM x 0.3) for mid drive application. (You can play around with the throttle to simulate percentage level of pedal assist)

Using a mid drive to gain efficiency is easier said than done, since in actual application, the most troublesome part of the ride is the mashing of the drive train when changing gears, and the associated loss of momentum and loss of speed in the process. Sometimes, the efficiency gain is lost in actual translation when going uphill and then missed to shift in the right gear and then you slowed down or even come to a full stop. Whatever efficiency gain you had are now all gone.

Cutting the power to gain efficiency results to performance handicap to the mid drives (slow acceleration) when compared to hub drives, most especially noticed in stop and go situations. Just imagine having to downshift especially if the stops are very near apart and very frequent. That would be an unpleasant riding experience with a sore shifting thumb, from a supposedly efficient ebike.

However, the big players are working hard to fine tune their mid drives to make it as user friendly as hub drives. And I think there will be more sophisticated controllers in the future with a "city mode" button or push button dedicated to provide enough start up torque without having to downshift.

Or you can just pair it to a continuously variable transmission (CVT) like the Nuvinci Harmony where it will keep your cadence in the efficient zone automatically and also shifts down to the lowest gear (first gear equivalent) at every stop. However, the price of this Nuvinci Harmony is still prohibitive to most riders, for now.


1 week ago

Sorry, I am very new to this ebike thing. Is it possible to run an ebike (say a bbso2 mid drive) off a 36v battery with only 2.6ah? We are moving to europe but I would like to build the bike before we go since it needs to be adapted to carry a dog too..

FYI. While cleaning out my garage and swapping the lawnmower for the snowblower, I decided to do some science. No, a 750W BBS02 kit from Lunacycle will not run on 36V. Even fully charged at 42 volts. the Ryobi isn't enough, It might be possible to use the progamming cable and a PC to set the motor up for 36V, but I don't have the cable, electing not to mess with that stuff.

However, I do have a 12volt, 9 cell lithium battery that I added in series to the Ryobi. I took it around for a half mile. The combo was able to push out 20A peak current. I didn't think the Ryobi could do that. With the regular battery, the motor will draw 25A, SInce the Ryobi was never intended to push those current levels, you'll have a short range ride and eventually ruin the battery.

1 week ago

Class III as described by the CA. law and being adopted in other states does allow for 28mph but doesn't address the wattage it takes to get there, but 750w, né 960w even, is not going to maintain that speed unless you are on flat ground with no wind for very long.

750w of motor assist on a speed pedelec will allow you to maintain 28mph on flat ground if there isn’t a strong headwind. What more power allows you to do is hold that speed across a wider range of conditions (headwind and\or incline.) Also, as the battery depletes you lose peak power. So with that 20A \ 48v controller you would be down 200w of peak power once the battery voltage drops 10v.

Ken M
1 week ago

-Bulls Outlaw
-The new generation Easy Motion hub drives
-Juicebikes CCS - Torah names his power assist as "dynamic assist", no jerky on-off propulsion.
-Magnum- some riders report jerky on-off feel at low speeds.

I tend to think of geared hub motors as unique from gear-less hub motors. While the gear reduction in a geared hub motors certainly provides more torque it does so at the expense of reduced reliability (the internal gears are almost always plastic and they will wear out of time ... I've read that many tend to need replacement every 5,000 - 10,000km while a gear-less hub drive has literally no wear-out expect for the axle bearings which can last up to 100,000km).

The sad result of the motor regulations in Europe usually pushes the technology towards mid-drives because the internal gear reductions multiple the torque of low wattage motors. In the US the 750W regulation provides a unique opportunity for a gear-less hub motor to provide a better solution overall.

Note: In reality the 750W rating is dubious because peak ratings tend to ignore the specification. In reality any motor could be rated at 750W based on a test protocol. Unless both the controller and motor are considered in the drive specification the regulations are of no real legal merit (which is a good thing for anyone really wanting a good performance eBike and not some slow European eBike limited to 20mph max assist speed.

I know now I'll get a bunch of haters telling me that 20mph is fast enough and anything faster is not safe because they are scared to ride faster. Serious get a life and let those that feel comfortable riding at 20-40mph enjoy some assist at those speeds.

Ken M
1 week ago

I think the industry over-prioritizes the European granny-power limit of 25oW. This essentially drives a significant % of the bike designs towards mid drives (not that they are not the best configuration for mtn bikes). The US power limit of 750W is still a bit lower than is really needed to enable an eBike to become a truly viable transportation product but it's much better. I have no clue why the big OEM don't have all motors produced to allow 750W nominal minimum (higher peak levels for a duration of a few minutes to complete an occasional hill) and just program the power level down in those EU countries that are scared of anyone going faster than 28kpm (may as well be walking).

Mark Peralta
3 weeks ago

Technology Bern University of Applied Sciences have conducted an efficiency test and concluded that geared hub drive (Maxxon for example) are most efficient compared to several Bosch and other mid-drive motors.

This should give a solid evidence to prove that mid-drives are not the most ideal in all cases. All this talk of efficiency is just pure talk. I also know from experience that my geared hubs gave me more range than mid-drives. Again, there are + and - to both but simply saying mid-drives are efficient is just BS. Please look at the detailed reports below. I still think a good geared hub motor coupled to a torque sensor gives the best power and range combo. [MAC, Easy motion 2018 geared hubs]

Here is a video:

Summary of the test:

Reports for each candidate bikes:

Specialzied levo: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Specialized_Levo.pdf

Cube Reaction pro: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Cube_Reaction_Pro.pdf

Bergamont E-roxter: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Bergamont_E-Roxter50plus.pdf

Haibike hardnine: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Haibike_HardNine_5.0_2run.pdf

Scott E-aspect: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Scott_E-aspect.pdf

Diavelo e650i: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Diavelo_e650i.pdf

Giant Dirt- E: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Giant_Dirt-E.pdf

Flyer uproc 2: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Flyer_uproc_2.pdf

Wheeler I-reader HD: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Wheeler_I-Reader_HD.pdf

Whistler Bware: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Whistle_Bware_2run.pdf

Ghost Kato: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Ghost.pdf

Hi Ravi, that's a very interesting post since I am excited to see a very efficient hub drive. I don't see the Maxon hub drive as one of the ebikes tested in the article.
They were all mid drives and one hub drive which was the Diavelo. Extract of the article were the following:

Wheeler rider HD, yamaha PWX, 500wh battery = 45 km or 11.0 wh/km
Cube reaction pro500, Bosch CX, 500 wh battery = 46 km or 10.8 wh/km
Bergamont Roxster, Bosch perf cruise, 500 wh battery = 49 km or 10.3 wh/km
Haibike Xduro hardnine, Bosch CX, 500 wh battery = 44 km or 11.3 wh/km
Flyer UPROC, Panasonic motor, 500 wh battery = 38 km or 11.3 wh/km
Specialized Levo, Brose, 460 wh battery = 37 km or 12.6 wh/km
Giant Dirct E, Yamaha sync dr, 409 wh battery = 41 km or 10.1 wh/km
Scott Aspect, Bosch motor, 506 wh battery = 41 km or 12.3 wh/km
Stoke E-blade, Bosch perf CX, 400 wh battery = 38 km or 10.6 wh/km
Whistle B ware, Bosch perf CX, 510 wh battery = 40 km or 10.1 wh/km
Ghost Kato2, Shimano E6000, 418 wh battery = 44 km or 9.5 wh/km
Diavelo E9501, Diavelo hub drive, 420 wh battery = 28 km or 17.6 wh/km

On that comparison the mid drives consumption ranges from 9.5 wh/km to 12.6 wh/km. There was only one hub drive and it comsumed more energy at 17.6 wh/km.

The Maxon drive provides promise for high efficiency from it's claimed 10.0 wh/km.
However, I want to see the source if it was from in-house information or from an independent test. If you can send me the link, I would greatly appreciate it.

Where was the image above taken?
I don't see it from Maxon website.
The hub drive can have a higher peak efficiency considering less energy is wasted from the mechanical transmission. But That's all theory, a third party side by side comparison would be very interesting and very exciting since Maxon claims it can attain 10.0 wh/km consumption.

Regardless, the difference in efficiency is minimal but a hub drive is much easier to ride than a mid drive and preserves the life of the drive train (more durable).

3 weeks ago

I have a 2014 izip e3 peak it uses the same batts how much do u want for the batts?

3 weeks ago

There are a few states that have 1000w limits in the law books. Oregon where I live is one of them.

It is kind of a game at this point. Some EU spec 250w bikes can peak at over 600w depending on how they are programmed and a US 750w bike with a 48v battery and a 20amp controller that is a popular option will peak @ 960w. The big thing to me is the speed restriction which is 15.5mph EU and 20mph US and bikes programmed to those restrictions will be only that fast under power, and hard to pedal above that unless on a downhill grade or with a tailwind.

Class III as described by the CA. law and being adopted in other states does allow for 28mph but doesn't address the wattage it takes to get there, but 750w, né 960w even, is not going to maintain that speed unless you are on flat ground with no wind for very long.

6 days ago

The 9 only you get performance downhill because to really take advantage of light pedelec with 4 kilos less,you need to maintain a higher peak speed with any rise or low gradient.. 3º to 5º and the 9 teehts dont help.

If you exceed 25km / h the effort is multiplied, to pedal without counting the wind against and also of assistance, added to the position of 90º human and the wheels less rolling and a greater weight does not compensate to put the 9 teeth.

you remove 1 kilo weight to your pedelec and gain 6 seconds for 1 km of ascent with human effort.10km =60 seconds.

Easier for the human and easier for the engine.

The easy way is to remove weight on the wheels and have more torque to distribute at top speed, if you are going to make the pedelec more road and less of MTB is easy ..... tire changes or full solution, change wheel to 28 inches and a very light tire that supports the weight pedelec and user.

The cheapest solution that I forget is to take off one's body weight, lose weight by getting fit if this is possible.


Mark Stonich
1 month ago

Thanks for your answer. She had a motorcycle accident when younger. Things were actually fine until last year when she slipped on an ice patch and broke her knee cap. That's when the knee problems started to come back. There's a loss of strength accompanied by pain when putting too much pressure on the knee. Walking is not a problem, but carrying heavy loads is no longer possible. Not sure of all the details, as it's a friend's wife. I offered to help put the bike/kit together as they're both over 75.

In a lot of cases the apparent lack of strength isn't that the muscle isn't strong, but pain prevents you from applying full tension with it. Reducing the bend in the knee with short cranks and spinning freely (easier with shorties) often helps. That she has no trouble walking, where the knee isn't loaded while bent, suggests that reducing the bend MAY help. She should run this past her Ortho and PT to get their opinion.

If she's a candidate for knee replacement, everyone I know who's had one, including my wife, says they should have done it sooner. 7 weeks after Jane's TKR she was climbing much better than before. And she rode 9 miles the day before her surgery. But after replacement, a lot of people lose range of motion and still need shorties. I've sold at least 100 sets 100mm or shorter to adults. Many to people with knee replacements whose PT wasn't aggressive enough.

If you want to have them contact me I can help them determine if short cranks are likely to help. I have all the work I want/need and would have retired years ago if there was someone else, anywhere on the planet, doing the work. So if her situation doesn't warrant shorties, I won't try to talk them into anything to try to make a sale. If nothing else, I can offer her some strategies for biking with bad knees. And Jane can share her experience with the Copenhagen Wheel.

Mark Stonich; BikeSmith Design & Fabrication
5349 Elliot Ave S. Minneapolis, MN 55417 USA
Ph. (612) 710-9593 http://bikesmithdesign.com
https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikesmith/ (Mostly Wildlife)

Recommended reading;
Crank Length, Leg Length and Power
Short Women / Short Crank Feedback
Range of Motion Limitations & Crank Length

In case they worry that short cranks will cost her power;

I recently got a phone call from an average sized adult mountain biker who says he's climbing familiar hills 1 or 2 gears higher on 135s than he'd used with 175s before he messed his knee up. He was just hoping shorties would let him ride again. Now he wants to get back into racing. He’s in Big Bear Lake California where the “Hills” are mountains.

A local Gravel Road racer is 6'-2” (188cm) and after much trial and error finds he is fastest on 135s despite having no RoM or other issues.

Another 6’2” gent in Texas competes in long distance Brevets on 95mm cranks due to severe range of motion limits. Another man with range of motion limits is climbing the hills of San Francisco with a single 38t chainring and a 12-25 cassette, also on 95s. The fellow in San Francisco bends pedal spindles. I just heard from another gent who does the grueling 200 mile Seattle to Portland on 95s.

One of my customers, 5'-7" (170cm) tall professional triathlete Courtney Ogden, won the big money 2011 Western Australia Ironman on 145s. He's done extensive work with the people at PowerCranks where they are becoming big advocates of shorter cranks.

A few years ago a team of 4 Australian MTB racers, ranging in height from 5'10 to 6"1 won a 24 hour MTB race on 125s. With the shorter cranks they rarely had to stand. conserving energy. And they were able to get by with a single chainring, before today’s monster cassettes, because the useful RPM range is so wide with shorties. Many customers have reported that they notice themselves needing to shift much less often.

This from a serious roadie with severe range of motion limitations;
"I’m 5’8” 168lbs – regarding strength, I’m not the strongest. However, I’m not the last up the hills and can do more than my fair share on the front of the group. The 115mm Andels you made for me still have no issues what so ever, I’m on my second set of rings! Please send me another set of 115s for my new bike.”
Knee Friendly Pedaling

Riders usually push down on the pedals by using their quads to straighten the knee joint. First pushing the pedal forward, then down. There is always going to be a bit of this going on but you can do a lot to reduce the loads on your knees.

Try concentrating on using your glutes and hip flexors to swing your knees up and down. Relax your quads and just let everything below the knee act as a connecting rod between the knees and pedals. At the bottom of the pedal stroke use your hamstrings just a little bit to pull your foot back as though you were scraping mud off your shoe. Don't consciously push forward at the top of the circle. That's when knees are most bent and the tissues around them are most vulnerable.

If you aren't clipped into the pedals, and most of the time even if you are, you don't pull up on the pedal. But the idea of using the hip flexors to lift the knee is to reduce the amount of work done by the front foot that is wasted by raising the weight of the other leg and foot. If you aren't clipped into your pedals you don't want to completely unweight the upward foot. Some contact is needed to keep it located on the pedal. A grippy pedal like a spiky MTB platform or the MKS Grip King (AKA Lambda) makes this easier.

Pedalling on the mid-foot instead of the ball of the foot reduces stress on the knee. And testing has shown that it increases endurance, at a slight cost in peak power. However, be careful to avoid toe/tire interference.

If you do this while spinning freely, in low gears, you won't have to apply much force with any single muscle group. If you aren't comfortable spinning, your cranks are probably too long. 21-21.6% of inseam is best for healthy, non-triathlets, without joint issues. When a person is uncomfortable at higher RPM it isn't due to the muscles switching from extension to contraction more often. It is because their muscles are extending and contracting at a speed that is too fast for them. This recruits more fast twitch muscles, which produce more heat and lactic acid. Shortcranks reduce this speed by moving the muscles a shorter distance per revolution. Allowing more use of slow twitch fibers for a higher comfortable cadence.

Your quads will still end up doing much of the work. But easing some of the tension pulling your patella down onto the joint can make a big difference. When I get a twinge in my knee, it reminds me to concentrate on my pedaling and I actually accelerate.

BTW I read about this type of pedaling years ago, as a way to help you spin better. So it has a double benefit.

For eBike types, think of more efficient pedaling as a way to lessen drain on your batteries. ;)

Va. Bch. Electric Bike Center
1 month ago

Hi all,

I have narrowed my choices down to 3 very different ebikes. I have found these three for almost exactly the same price. They are all around $2200 or 2300 including shipping and all brand new.

I have looked at lots of reviews on all 3. I am looking for opinions on which one would be the best as far as long lasting and quality of components. Anyone have any thoughts and opinions?

The three bikes are as follows:

Izip Electric bike Peak+
Tern Vektron
Riese and Muller Roadster Touring

Thank you!
Test ride, test ride and test ride! It's the only way.

1 month ago

Hi all,

I have narrowed my choices down to 3 very different ebikes. I have found these three for almost exactly the same price. They are all around $2200 or 2300 including shipping and all brand new.

I have looked at lots of reviews on all 3. I am looking for opinions on which one would be the best as far as long lasting and quality of components. Anyone have any thoughts and opinions?

The three bikes are as follows:

Izip Electric bike Peak+
Tern Vektron
Riese and Muller Roadster Touring

Thank you!

2 months ago

I too have the Trek Super Commuter since June this year and am breaking the 1700 mile barrier as of today. Many different conditions on roads and trails and I am considering a suspension fork. Coming from an Izip E3 Peak I can say it’s a totally different ride but I do miss the RockShox. If I do spring for the fork I want to get the right one the first time so any advice is welcomed. Going to the Expo in Philadelphia on Nov 4th. Hopefully some manufacturers reps will be there to pick their brains.

2 months ago


Patented BH frame with integrated battery creates clean frame lines.
Now 20% higher torque, reaching a peak power of 860W.
AWD model with a 350W rear and 250W front geared hub motors.
PAS (pedal assist) up to 20MPH, 28MPH on the NITRO model, w/POD (power on demand) offered on URBAN models.
Pedal Assist and Throttle (except EVO AWD BIG BUD).

Bosch eBike Systems
2 months ago

BOOGALOO eMTB Race heading to Southern California

Join the fun at the SoCal Endurance Race at the Vail Lake Resort in Temecula, CA Nov 4th

Oct 18th, 2017 Temecula, CA – THE BOOGALOO, a Class 1 pedal-assist mountain bikes (eMTB) race and demo event presented by Troy Lee Designs & Bosch eBike Systems, is heading to Southern California after a sold-out & stoked-up race at the Kamikaze Bike Games in Mammoth. Check out this video from Troy Lee Designs recapping the race, as well as the video produced by Transworld Motocross.

The race will be held Saturday November 4th on a course specifically designed for eMTB racers and built by legends like Brian Lopes, David Cullinan, Ryan Hughes and both previous champions of the Pro Class Victor Sheldon and Evander Hughes. Expect near-vertical ascents, killer drops, obstacles, berms, and more that will take you and your eMTB to the limits of what you thought possible on two wheels.

Limited registration is filling up fast for 32 Amateur “Race of Champions” slots. The early-bird entry fee of $60 is available until Oct 31st and will have you treated like a pro for the day with a Class 1 eMTB provided by Bulls, Haibike, Raleigh Electric, and Specialized set up to your specifications. Riders will also get a custom Troy Lee Designs A1 helmet, number plate, fender and commemorative t-shirt to take home along with some great stories from the event. The fastest five will win a premium Bosch Power Drill. REGISTER NOW before all entries are sold out. Also take advantage of the early-bird pre registration price as on site entries will increase to $75 per rider.

The Pro Class eMTB race will take place immediately following the Amateur race, where pros will compete for a $2,000 purse and Power Tools.

“These events are just full of stoke. I am pumped that we are able to get the Vail Lake eMTB race together so quickly following the success of the recent Boogaloo race at the Mammoth Kamikaze Games. We have already been cutting the coarse and it’s shaping up great, this is going to be one exciting day of racing!” -Troy Lee

If racing isn’t your blood, FREE demos will be also be available before and after the race on a custom built course suited for beginner riders near the registration area of the So Cal Endurance / So Cal Enduro at Vail Lake. Bikes from Raleigh Electric, Haibike, Bulls Bikes and Specialized, will be on hand with representatives from each brand to set up and educate riders on Class 1 eMTB riding.

Demo Schedule:

Friday 11/3/17 – 1pm – 5pm

Saturday 11/4/17 – 9am – 12pm

Sunday 11/5/17 – 9am – 12pm

“I want to give a big congrats and thanks to all the our Mammoth Boogaloo racers who poured their hearts out there on the track. We had teens racing against men and women three times their age, and many legends from the extreme sports world.” said Claudia Wasko, General Manager of Bosch eBike Systems Americas. “We look forward to seeing who returns to Vail Lake to challenge our reigning Pro-Class champ Evander Hughes.”

Race Director of So Cal Endurance and So Cal Enduro, Jason Ranoa said. “ I am looking forward to hosting my first Class 1 eMTB event. We will be racing and doing demo’s on a closed course in hopes to educate MTB riders about what Class 1 eMTB is all about. You can’t help but smile after taking a lap on our course!”

Class 1 is a specific classification for sustainable use on any trail, path or riding area. Class 1 eMTB models are defined as “a human powered bicycle with fully operable pedals, and an electric motor under 750 Watts peak power that must be pedaled to activate the motor and that ceases to provide power above 20 mph”. (See Photo 4 for Class 1 visual)

Once again please visit the pre registration page for early-bird pricing by clicking here - http://www.socalendurance.net/boogaloo.html


Contacts for press inquiries:

Aaron Cooke, Proper Management

Phone: 714-720-5872


Andy Ambrosius, Tech Image

phone: +1-312-888-1628


2 months ago

The video is good, however, it is not a fair comparison nor an accurate one.

The Rad actually is putting out over 1000w peak (22a x 48v = 1056), which is 2x more than the Sondors at just over 500w peak (15a x 36v = 540). So showing the Rad zooming past the Sondors while putting out double the watts doesn't tell the whole story.

The Rad Rover costs $500 more which allows for better components. To do this comparison right, you should have compared a Sondors X 48v 500w (20a x 48v = 960) which would have been a much closer in performance and still $250 cheaper than the Rover even with the 7 speed, front suspension upgrade and shipping. Add a 25a aftermarket controller for $65 and the X puts out 1200w vs the Rads 1056w peak for still $200 less than the Rad. The Rad does have 750w motor but as you can see the wattage difference is not that much with both stock bikes at peak power. Another huge difference is that X comes with a much larger battery than the Rover 17.5aH vs 11.6aH.

Overall the Rad is probably a better eBike if you compare it from top to bottom. But for little over $1000, the Sondors X is a better overall value.

Geoffrey Bloom
2 months ago

Has anyone confirmed that the Magnum Peak has 90nm of torque? It really does appear to be a value priced, good quality speed pedelec. I could not find a DAS-KIT motor on their website that produced 90nm (most of their geared hub motors we in the neighbor hood of 40nm which will still perform pretty well but not achieve 28mph with some reasonable rider effort.
Yes, I have a Magnum Peak and it is definitely at least 90nm. It takes off the line quickly. My friend with his Specialized Turbo Levo (also 90nm but only 36v) can not even come close to keeping up with me. And I have achieved and sustained speeds of 28mph.

Ken M
2 months ago

All electric motors has a bell curve of the efficiency range (albeit skewed) when plotted against RPM. That is the efficiency of converting electrical energy from the battery to mechanical energy in the motor. The peak is usually in the low to mid 80's %. A 500 watt hub drive's peak efficiency will depend on how it is wound and geared. In the US there are the 20 mph and the 28 mph hubs. The peak efficiency will be somewhere below 20 mph (15-18 mph) or for the speed pedelec it will be proportionally at higher speed, maybe from 19-26 mph.

When it comes to the load. The new controllers now use MOSFETS that feed optimum load all the time for maximum efficiency (gone are the inefficient variable resistors of the past), but the optimum current is produced in pulses and the pulses are controlled or modulated by there width, pulse width modulation or PWM. So the load is always near optimum with the new controllers.

Small mid drives has the potential to have the highest overall efficiency by taking advantage of the gear ratios and keeping the RPM within the optimum range.

Ken M
2 months ago

Has anyone confirmed that the Magnum Peak has 90nm of torque? It really does appear to be a value priced, good quality speed pedelec. I could not find a DAS-KIT motor on their website that produced 90nm (most of their geared hub motors we in the neighbor hood of 40nm which will still perform pretty well but not achieve 28mph with some reasonable rider effort.

Mark Peralta
2 months ago

For riding on hilly paved roads .
Any real world difference in acceleration and climbing ?
There is another thread here at ebr forum where a Brose owner complains about how slow it is compared to the Bosch CX.
However, I don't think that the Brose is inferior to the Bosch. Both are reputable giants. I think it is just tuned differently and dialed more for maximum range over high peak power.

Geoffrey Bloom
2 months ago

Could be, depending on model and how you spec it out (Sterzing starts at about $7500). It is state-of-the-art Carbon frame, dual piston, brakes, etc etc.


But if you are looking for the best value / performance ratio out there, it is the Magnum peak for sure. It has the basic essentials like 48v battery / power and 90nm of torque, hydraulic brakes, 24 gears, 29" wheels - all for about $2000.


John from Connecticut
2 months ago

Hello all - I need some help. I am getting the below 4x4 Sprinter Van that has a bed that raises. I want to put two bikes under the bed that fit when it is lowered - which will require taking the front wheel off.

What my requirements are:

A fun - want to ride every day - ride.
Suspension (through forks / tires) that will allow us to ride on easy to medium trails. I assume the full suspension bikes can't take a bike rack.....
Must have a bike rack as we will be taking camping stuff at least 10 miles down the trail... or getting groceries.
Long lasting battery.
Tough as we will be banging this thing around.
Unique - I love having cool things that spark conversations. Not to show off - but to start a conversation... I like to talk....
Weight - In my experience the lighter the bike the better the carve. But... I understand the electric bike is a lot heavier which is fine - expected - but 70+ pounds I wonder if that is too heavy for some of these??

We will be peddling a lot - I have a Carbon Fiber DaVinci (which is over my head in capabilities) so I want a bike that I can peddle a lot of the time.... maybe 50% on assist 1 or 2.. At least that is my vision - might change as I've never had an electric bike! I'm 48 and still want to go to places that others people aren't.

The bikes (I need two - one for me / one for my girl -- 5' 10" / 5' 6") that I'm kind of excited about are:

Haibike SDURO Trekking 9.5 - a little expensive and unsure about the off road capability. Looks like it is well put together - well thought out bike. Looks mad cool. A take down from this bike might be the M2S XC Sport?? Half the price.

M2S R750 Looks like a nice bike for the price. Looks like it is mad fun and has decent options. Unsure if that is an actual 750 Watt motor or the peak? Wish the battery was 52v. 62 pounds.

RadRover Man I love this company - flew from Key Largo up to Seattle to tested the bike. My only problem with the RadRover is that it seems that it hasn't been updated that much. I wish it had an option for a better battery and forks.

Volt Yukon Limited Looks like a real nice bike - possibly a step above the Rad but that is more like a Ford / Chevy argument.... they are too close to call so go with the one that looks the best. And the Volt guy is a little aggressive replying to comments anywhere the Volt is talked about. If I had to pick between the two - I think I would go Volt but would choose the R750 over both.

Teo S Another well priced bike and it seems to be a pretty nice one with a 750W motor . I am unsure how it compares the other Rad / Volt. Looks like the people who bought this bike really like it. But that is all relative -

Bulls / Specialized / Trek / and many other high end brands that make amazing bikes... but they seem to be a lot more expensive. I'm sure super nice rides - but is the price justified?

M2S XC Sport
M2S R750
Volt Yukon Limited
Teo S

Hello SV Moving On,
Looking for opinions on e-Bikes. I purchased a Trek XM700+ this past July and I absolutely love it ! My average daily ride is 20-ish miles and I hate to stop.

The Bosch Performance Motor is silky smooth, but very powerful, the Intuvia Controller is simple to use. My XM700+ glides along bringing me great joy....Hills, 'there are none' : ) I never thought cycling could be so much fun !... I made one change and added the Cirrus Bodyfloat seat post which I consider and absolute must. For me the frame stiffness was more then my back would tolerate, but the Bodyfloat is a marvelous piece of engineering, now my Trek is so comfortable...

The disk brakes are strong, extremely smooth and boy do they work. The swept back handlebars and the ergonomic grips make for a very comfortable ride.... The bike feels rock solid and is very well built. I've put on a little over 1000 miles in 3 months.

I'm sure there are many fine e-bikes out there, and I'm sure a few that are 'not so fine', but to me the Trek XM700+ plus is worth every penny and I'd do it all over again...

In fact I'm sort of doing that. I just ordered a Trek Powerfly 7 Mountain Bike based on my 700+ experience. I want to ride gravel/stone dust trails and I don't feel stable enough on the 7oo. The bike is fine, the issue is me, my 71 year old agility isn't what it used to be.

One last thing...A bike rack. I bought a Sirrus Freedom SuperClamp 2. It is great, once the hitch is installed, the rack is simple to install and remove from your vehicle. The rack is well built. Sirrus is a US company ( Madison Wisconsin ) . They've been in Wisconsin for 40 years, long before the catch phrase "Make America great again" . : ) I hope this was helpful.
All the best, John

Mark Peralta
2 months ago

Does anyone know what percentage of electrical energy input actually gets converted into forward motion?

At, say, 500W power consumption, how much energy remains to turn the wheel as opposed to heating the motor?

I presume the conversion efficiency varies a great deal with speed and load?
All electric motors has a bell curve of the efficiency range (albeit skewed) when plotted against RPM. That is the efficiency of converting electrical energy from the battery to mechanical energy in the motor. The peak is usually in the low to mid 80's %. A 500 watt hub drive's peak efficiency will depend on how it is wound and geared. In the US there are the 20 mph and the 28 mph hubs. The peak efficiency will be somewhere below 20 mph (15-18 mph) or for the speed pedelec it will be proportionally at higher speed, maybe from 19-26 mph.

When it comes to the load. The new controllers now use MOSFETS that feed optimum load all the time for maximum efficiency (gone are the inefficient variable resistors of the past), but the optimum current is produced in pulses and the pulses are controlled or modulated by there width, pulse width modulation or PWM. So the load is always near optimum with the new controllers.

Small mid drives has the potential to have the highest overall efficiency by taking advantage of the gear ratios and keeping the RPM within the optimum range.

2 months ago

Just got the new pack yesterday, will share some initial impressions:

This pack is awesome! barely larger than the stock sized packs, 100% compatible on any of their bikes with the inframe style battery (in 48V). No problem fitting it on my Stunner LT, weight difference is very minor and the pack is not particularly any taller, just a bit wider out the left side (about 7/8"). Cell gain would be about 50% more (78 cells versus 52, rough guess)

Peak voltage off the charger seems to be the same as my smaller pack, 55.0V (equating to 13S), so there's no cheating for amp-hour gains with voltage sacrifice. This pack will all around perform better, and based on that voltage it should have around 1,100 Watt-hour peak!!!

Will provide some further dimensional/weight/range test details next week (and snap a pic), for now I'm extremely glad Roshan got these produced... Great upgrade for anybody looking to get a big range boost!

I really like those Stunner LTs. I almost bought one but decided on the Juggernaut Ultra.

MoneyJB 4real
5 months ago

how much is the price?

Erik Villegas
5 months ago

proud owner of an izip nice Customer bike support.

Evil Component
9 months ago

0:35 "so the whole rear end goes up and down like that, it feels a little stiffer"

Mark Elford
9 months ago

Good review, nice bike...ive been ghost watching for a while.

Carlos Pedro
9 months ago

Nice Bike bela bicicleta 😅👌🚴🚵🚴🚵🚴♥

the devil is back now he is here
9 months ago

Nice bike, not a fan of the white fork though !

9 months ago


9 months ago

Glad you enjoyed it! More in the works

9 months ago

can you do a video on best economy e-bikes? you know someting good for students.
live ur vids

9 months ago

ElectricBikeReview.com thnx bro will be waiting 😁

9 months ago

Sure, I've created a section on the site with more "affordable" electric bikes and just for you, I'll review a new one called the Juiced CrossCurrent Air today. Keep an eye out for it: https://electricbikereview.com/category/affordable/

joes joey
9 months ago

very nice bike this thing hawls assss seems pretty fast!

joes joey
9 months ago


9 months ago

It can definitely ride faster than 20 mph if you pedal or go down a hill like I was doing with some of the shots but the max assisted speed is 20 mph since it's a Class 1 Ebike

Fat Bike Freak
9 months ago

Can you say dongle in your next video please...

9 months ago

Ha! I'll keep that in mind when I head back to NYC soon and film more reviews. I'm just processing some of the video from my last trip to SoCal at the moment :P

9 months ago


9 months ago

Ha! Awesome :D

9 months ago

Paying that much Id prefer a higher end haibike. Imo they look a bit more sturdy and you seem to get more for your money. At least in europe.

9 months ago

Yeah, I lean that direction too. This bike performed well and the drive system is exactly the same as Haibike but it doesn't look as cool and I don't think the frame engineering is quite as dialed in... at least from just looking at it, it rode well tough ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

9 months ago

Are we suspicious about its odd rear suspension setup?? As Court pointed out earlier, the Horst-link is a type of four-bar linkage suspension design that is now allowed to be used by every manufacturer and seems to be regarded as the best 'full-squish' setup.
History here:
And pinkbike has more analysis on rear suspension variants with copious photos:

9 months ago

Yeah, thanks for the links. I didn't know how to respond to the suspension but the Raleigh Electric product manager was stoked on it... hard to tell if marketing or actually a better design. To me, that connected metal part is just strange? Maybe they will chime in to help explain :)

Jeff Perteet
9 months ago

nice test ride

9 months ago

Thanks Jeff! I've been trying to show more of how the bikes work, especially when I have time and am at cool locations. Knowing you appreciate it is good feedback

Tahir Rana
9 months ago

4199$, I guess only NASA employees can afford this as they do steal tax $$$ to give the sheep fake space!

9 months ago

Yeah, I wish we didn't have baby formula, cordless tools, ear thermometers, golf clubs, invisible braces, MRI or CAT scans, memory foam, shoe insoles, water filters, UV blocking sunglasses or solar panels... what was NASA thinking inventing all of that stuff in pursuit of space technology and exploration! Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NASA_spinoff_technologies in case you're just looking for a less expensive ebike, here's a long list: https://electricbikereview.com/category/affordable/

9 months ago

The white fork looks odd with the rest of the bike. Very nice bike though.

9 months ago

I tend to agree with you... it just doesn't look mean or beautiful or tight the way that some other bikes do, but it does cost a little less and the ride was good :)

9 months ago

wow,that's a awesome E- bike

9 months ago

ElectricBikeReview.com that's a great price.

9 months ago

Agree! Big step up from last year and $300 cheaper, very cool

Seb K
9 months ago

Did you hear about the NYC cops seizing those Ebikes recently ?!!! It's all over the cycling communites . Absolute idiots. I don't understand why NYC doesn't lift the ban . Cars kill on a daily basis . What the hell does an Ebike do compared to 2 tonnes of metal - a lot of people are very angry as a lot of the riders were delivery riders so customers won't be getting their goods . I'm glad I don't live in NYC .

Seb K
9 months ago

Won't surprise me if they ban pedal assist too .

Propel Electric Bikes
9 months ago

It's not really scientific. They made a law in 2004 before ebike were even really a thing. The law was designed to ban all bikes and scooters that can't be registered so they used the words "can be propelled without human power" and frankly pedal assist is kind of a loophole for now until we get some clear laws which should hopefully happen soon.

Seb K
9 months ago

Cheers Chris . I wish they could give a clear statement as to why they don't allow throttle activated Ebikes . Maybe the higher top speeds but if you stick a 50T chainring and use the 11t sprocket with an Ebike you are going to hit well over 20mph . Heck I even it 30mph on my traditional bike . Could be the torque of the motor . I don't know but they need to be more clear as to why they are apposed to throttle Ebikes .

Propel Electric Bikes
9 months ago

This was just throttle activated bikes. It still kind of stinks. Throttle activated bikes have been illegal in NYC since 2004 and the enforcement has been sporadic. There seems to be a new approach for handling this now, particularly in some precincts.

This is bringing some much needed attention to this issue in NYC and NYS. I feel we're getting closer and closer to having clear laws for ebikes in NY, but it's always been the case that bikes with throttles are illegal in NYC. Unfortunately the press often don't take the time to make this distinction, but we're clear on it. We've even went to court to prove that pedal-assist bikes are not illegal under NYC law, but throttle bikes are.

It would be our preference to allow for both, but through speaking with many politicians and city officials, it seems pretty clear that they're not going to support any legislation that allows for both. - Chris

Seb K
9 months ago

I think any electrically assisted bicycle . Also the officers were parked IN THE BIKE LANE when handing out tickets !!!


9 months ago

I like the "moustache asphalt" but the "I zip E 3 peak DS" design is more sporty-looking to me. Which is more my style. The fenders on these bikes (the asphalt) make them look more vintage and old fashioned.

And the top speed on this model totally sucks. Why such a low speed on such a cool, sporty bike ?. I must admit courtney, it was you who greatly influenced me too appreciate the Bosch drive systems. I had heard of them before but, I really didn't pay them that much attention. I was more focused on the "bafang BBSHD" motor.

Now the Bosch is one of my favorites. I hope they offer this model with a higher top-speed in the future.

9 months ago

ElectricBikeReview.com Thanks Courtney. We truly appreciate what you do fellow.

9 months ago

There are other bikes with the Class 3 speed pedelec motor from Bosch but it's rare, I think the full suspension models usually avoid it unless the tires are slicks and there are fenders because they aren't allowed on off-road trails in California and elsewhere that follow the Classes. In this case, the Peak DS is Class 1 so you can mountain bike with it :)

9 months ago

Drive gear turns 2.5 times per crank revolution. I've ridden about 18 thousand miles on the Bosch and can honestly not tell the difference between 'shift detect' enabled or disabled. Seems like all it does is enable the shift prompt (arrows) in the display. That pulley is so high and forward it reduces the length of engagement on the critical drive gear, let's see how that goes and if a divorce is eminent. Funky engineering. -S

9 months ago

Size of the chainring has nothing to do with what is happening internally, it could be 48 feet and would maintain the 2.5:1 ratio. I have not measured the CX line but would bet you a taco it is the same. I'd like to see 'shift sensing' in action on a bench, when roadies try one of my haibikes they always mash until they learn to backoff for the shift. For now I call hooey ;) - Thanks for the reply and continuous reviews. -S

9 months ago

Thanks for the feedback! I usually say "about 2 times" because Bosch lets manufacturers choose the chainring size (like 15 to 20 teeth) and I thought that would change from exactly 2.5 to more of a range. I believe the shift recommendation has more to do with the motor RPM and recommending you to shift to enable it to help more. Shift sensing tells the motor to ease off for a moment when the derailleur is in action but I'm not sure exactly how it works, I think it senses strain and is software driven... it's not perfect but I'd rather have it than not :)