EV Global Motors ebike SX Review

Ev Global Motors Ebike Sx Electric Bike Review
Ev Global Motors Ebike Sx
Ev Global Motors Ebike Sx 500 Watt Motor
Ev Global Motors Ebike Sx Battery
Ev Global Motors Ebike Sx Controller
Ev Global Motors Ebike Sx Headlight
Ev Global Motors Ebike Sx Electric Bike Review
Ev Global Motors Ebike Sx
Ev Global Motors Ebike Sx 500 Watt Motor
Ev Global Motors Ebike Sx Battery
Ev Global Motors Ebike Sx Controller
Ev Global Motors Ebike Sx Headlight


  • A high powered, feature rich electric bike ahead of its time designed by Lee Iacocca (the pioneering engineer behind classic Ford and Chevy automobiles)
  • Discontinued, EV Global Motor Company went out of business
  • Strong 500 watt geared rear hub motor by Heinzmann paired with capable 36 volt SLA battery
  • Full of extras and creature comforts including front and rear headlights, side mirror, fenders, a horn and a shock on the fork and seat post

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National eBike Shops

Electric Cyclery
900 N Coast Hwy
Laguna Beach,  CA  92651
Propel Bikes
134 Flushing Ave
Brooklyn,  NY  11205

Video Review

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EV Global Motors


ebike SX


$2,000 USD

Body Position:


Suggested Use:

Neighborhood, Urban

Electric Bike Class:

Throttle on Demand (Class 2)
Learn more about Ebike classes


United States

Model Year:


Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

75 lbs ( 34.01 kg )

Frame Types:


Frame Fork Details:

Nitro DH Triple Suspension with 75 mm Travel

Gearing Details:

7 Speed 1x7

Shifter Details:

Grip Twist


170 mm


Aluminum Alloy Platform

Brake Details:

Mechanical Disc in Front, V-Brake in Rear

Seat Post:

Suspension Shock


26" x 1.5" Double Wall, Rear 36 Hole, Front 32 Hole


14 Gauge Stainless

Tire Brand:

26" x 1.95"

Wheel Sizes:

26 in ( 66.04 cm )


Front and Rear Fenders, Front and Rear lights, Single Side Kickstand, Built-in Charger

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:


Motor Type:

Rear-Mounted Geared Hub (brushed)
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

500 watts

Battery Voltage:

36 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

8 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

288 wh

Battery Chemistry:

Sealed Lead Acid

Charge Time:

4.5 hours

Estimated Min Range:

15 miles ( 24 km )

Estimated Max Range:

20 miles ( 32 km )

Display Type:

LED Console


Battery Level

Display Accessories:

Horn, Cruise Control

Drive Mode:

Twist Throttle

Top Speed:

17.5 mph ( 28 kph ) (12.5 mph in Economy Mode)

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Written Review

The ebike SX was one of the higher end EV Global Motor electric bikes designed by Lee Iacocca who is famous for engineering the Ford Mustang and Ford Pinto cars. After leaving Ford he served as President and CEO of Chrysler from 1978 and as chairman from 1979 until retirement in 1992. In 1999 he became the head of EV Global Motors, a company formed to develop and market electric bikes in the US. It is said that he was inspired by innovation happening in Asian markets and wanted to bring his expertise from the automotive space to enhance bikes in America.

Powering the ebike SX is a beefy 500 watt geared brushed rear hub motor made by Heinzmann (known for their high quality systems). This is one of the more powerful motors of its time and is capable of moving larger riders. That said, motors from this time period were more prone to having gears stripped if used forcefully up hills without assistance. The motor is activated by using a trigger on the right handle bar. The left handle bar features a grip shifter which controls 7 gears on a standard rear cassette. It also features an adjustable side mirror for keeping track of passing cycles and vehicles.

The battery pack on this bike was built right into the oversized downtube and consisted of a 36 volt 8 amp hour sealed Lead-acid pack. This technology was state of the art at its time but does not rival modern Lithium-ion cells which tend to be much lighter and more capable of enduring thousands of charge cycles before losing capacity. That, compared with just ~250 estimated for the ebike SX and other bikes using SLA technology. In addition to the battery pack being located within the frame there is also a controller board and charging system. Newer ebikes tend to externalize the charger converter in a brick attached to the cord with the plug.

While the range, charge cycles and top speed on this bike are not very impressive by today’s standards, the fenders, horn, shock absorber, built in cruise control and design aesthetics still ring true. In fact, the SX and other EV Global ebike models look strikingly similar to the popular R series by Optibike. By integrating the wires, battery pack and controller into the oversized downtube, the chances of direct damage and weathering are greatly reduced. Considering the 75lb weight of this bike, the front disc brake was a welcome edition for riding in wet conditions. In terms of ride quality, this bike doesn’t feel as stiff as many newer ebikes but that’s due in large part to the weight.

The front and rear lights are ultra-bright and massive when compared with more modern offerings that often forgo lights altogether. The seat post shock makes a difference when riding over bumps and compliments the front shock well. If you see this bike at a garage sale or used bike store be sure to consider the lack of replacement parts available. Everything from the twist throttle to the controller and especially the batteries are hard to find. In the video review above you may notice the bike I was testing has a battery pack strapped onto a rear rack. This is due to the challenge of finding custom sized batteries that can fit inside the downtube. I’ve been told that if the trigger throttle on this bike breaks you can sometimes retrofit a throttle from Currie Technologies.

The ebike SX is an electric bike that led the way, inspired others to join in and ultimately proved to be ahead of its time. It’s not a very useful machine these days due to the limited replacement parts and abundance of new high-tech offerings but it’s still iconic and fun. For a collector or tinkerer this could be a worthwhile project but for most people it’s just something to be appreciated and acknowledged as a forerunner to modern ebikes.


  • Powerful motor capable of moving larger riders and ascending medium hills with pedal assistance
  • Super bright front and rear headlights keep you safe at night
  • Front fork shock and seat post shock smooth out the bumps
  • Front and rear fenders keep dust, mud and water away
  • Front disc brake provides great stopping power in wet conditions
  • Includes a kickstand and metal bash guard on front chain ring


  • No longer being produced, replacement parts becoming rare
  • Stock sealed Lead-acid battery was heavy and could only endure ~250 charges before losing capacity
  • No pedal assist mode, throttle only
  • Heavy bike with awkward frame that’s hard to lock up and a challenge to fit on hanging style car racks due to the lack of a top tube
  • Brushed style motors wear out faster and this older gear style may be prone to stripping if pushed too hard
  • Built in cruise control made riding over longer distances easier on the thumb


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Hanle van Niekerk
3 years ago

We bought an Electric Bike a few years ago and struggling to get it working again. We are based in South Africa.

Can you please advise us on how to get the wiring diagram for the bike or who we can contact to assist us in this matter.

Thank you and regards,
Hanle van Niekerk

Court Rye
3 years ago

Hello Hanle, there are ways to get the ebike SX and other EV Global Motors electric bikes going again. Usually it has to do with replacing the battery but it sounds like you're looking for help with wiring. There is a thread talking about this over on the forums at https://electricbikereview.com/community/threads/evg-ebike-upgrades.244/ and some more information at NYCeWheels http://www.nycewheels.com/ebike.html

I hope this helps you! The biggest challenge may be finding the right components in Africa to fix your existing bike. Feel free to join the discussion in the forums and ask for more advice :)

Sally Dillon
3 years ago

Hi, I have 2 ebikes in my garage. They are probably 15 years old? Need new batteries and tires. What is the best place to source these items, or to resell my bikes to other ebike enthusiasts?

Court Rye
3 years ago

That is a great question Sally... I really have no idea about this but have seen some of the older EV Global ebikes on display at shops in California and Florida just for fun (like a museum). You could always post them in the deals forum here for sale or ask around for help from other ebike enthusiasts in the EV Global Motors forum.

Eric Borcherding
2 years ago

On the EVG SX36 e-bike by Lee Iaocca. What a machine, and what a dream! One can convert these bikes to quite good performance:

1) Using the stock battery case fit in a LiNiMnCo 37V 10.8 AHr from BatterySpace (special order). At an astounding 6pds greatly lowers 15pds from L.A. 6 pack conversion of 6 x 6V * 9Ahr Powersonics (21 Pds). Big step...
2) Or try a 38.4V 15AHr LiFePO4 imotor @12pds bearing phenominal range / speed. 32KPH max, range of 60KM alone. This pack is simply, Kick-Ass. Snug fit into compartment with required BMS and connector mod; try 6 pack trailer connector. This is bested by 2 x 18.5V 18650 Lions self-build 7pd packs with a tricky BMS, dual chargers and stuffed full battery compartment fill, for more range.
3) Change 12V35W Halogen to Xenon QuteQueen LED H3mod 5W@14V, 82% energy saved for motor in night rides.
4) Alternately the Heinzmann PE speed motor at 470W vs. 500W brushed motor adds a few KPHs.
5) Choose tires with solid narrow center rubber, pumped at ~45PSI, like German made Chamberlands brown walls.
6) Keep the bike lubed and drivetrain / bearings clean, adjust brakes for no-drag.

Happy Trails... Eric

Court Rye
2 years ago

Awesome information on conversion Eric! Thanks for sharing this. I checked out your website on LED's and found it interesting. Looks like you're pretty skilled with electronics and hardware :)

greg znamenacek
12 months ago

Where might I find use parts for ebike LX thank greg

Court Rye
12 months ago

I've visited a couple of shops that have units in the back and they might be willing to sell you parts or the entire bike for a good price. One such shop is The Electric Bike Shop in Sacramento, California and the other is Myron's Extreme Machines in Fullerton, California. No guarantees on either, they may or may not still have them but I have seen this unit in both shops over the past several years. Also, you could ask around in the EBR Community Forums here under For Sale or Q&A and ask for Ann M. who used to own a shop in Austin, Texas. She might know :)

8 months ago

You can also get parts from: electricwheelsofflorida on eBay. They have OEM parts for the e-bike. Good Luck!

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2 days ago
PTFC Brian
...I can't tell you how many family members and friends that are amazed when they take their first ride, and are shocked at how much fun biking can be ...
Congrats on the new bike. I've experienced a similar phenomena with my Riese and Muller. I was never stopped by strangers regarding my regular bikes. But I constantly get stopped when I have the ebike. At the grocery store, on the sidewalk at at the coffee shop. Last Saturday, I let a stranger at the coffee shop take a test ride (bike has a GPS tracker) after I spent a good deal of time answering his questions. My neighbor and a couple of other friends have tried the bike. Each time they return with the biggest smiles. Its fun to see their reactions which so far have been overwhelmingly positive.
2 days ago
Eddy Rush
Nirmala - Thanks for your input.

I have actually today been looking into a hardtail MTB option with a suspension seat so thank you for those ones you recommended and for the info RE the mid-drives - duly noted
Yes, a mid-drive with a wide range of gears should also mean that 250 watts is enough for your needs. A very fit racer can put out 1-200 watts steadily with peaks up to 500 watts. A nominal 250 watt mid drive motor would have a peak output of about 500 watts also. So basically, an electric bike makes it feel like you have Lance Armstrong pumped up with steroids on the back end of a tandem as you pilot the front end! For the most part, the folks who need much higher power motors are really speed freaks who want to go faster than a lower power rated motor can manage. But for assistance on hills on a more relaxed leisurely ride, 250 watts should be plenty....again especially if those watts are going in through the bike's gears.

I have a thudbuster on my hardtail ebike and it definitely soaks up the bumps compared to a solid seatpost.
2 days ago
You might consider either a fat tire bike or a suspension seatpost like a thudbuster or bodyfloat, or even both, instead of a full suspension ebike. With the kind of use you are describing, a full suspension may be overkill and does generally add to the overall weight (and price) of the bike, while a suspension seatpost will add a fair degree of comfort similar to what you get with a full suspension. Fat tires add even more comfort (and weight) but they do reduce the range. With your maximum range of 15 miles or so, you should still be able to easily cover that much ground even with fat tires on your bike.

In general, mid-drives work better for long or steep hills as you can use the gears to allow the motor to work in its ideal range. Hub motors can sometimes overheat or bog down on hills, whereas with a mid-drive, you can shift down just as you do on a regular bike, and the motor can keep working at or near its ideal speed of RPMs. This would seem to be especially true in the UK given the limits on overall power of the motor. Some mid-drive sytems even still have two front chainrings for an even wider range of gears for the motor (and your own legs) to work with. On a very long or steep hill, you will probably still need to pedal some to keep a bare minimum of speed, but again shifting down will protect your own knees as well as the motor.
2 days ago
Hi Eddy from South Yorkshire, I'm from Leicester, studied in Sheffield for a year before emigrating to the US and enjoyed traveling around the peak district and south Yorkshire. Fun fact, in Pittsburgh at the University 'Cathedral of Learning' they have a series of nationality rooms and in the England room one of the windows displays the Sheffield city crest celebrating links to Pittsburgh's past industrial history as a steel-making town. Anyway on to your questions:

1) How good are E-Bikes at managing steep hills/long stretches of inclined road and do you still have to pedal?
A: I well remember climbing Sheffield's hills. It takes power to pull the weight of you, bike, motor, & battery, up hill. As you pointed out the UK has a 250W/15.5mph continuous power/speed limit. For purposes of making comparisons the formula for working out the peak power of an E-Bike is battery voltage times controller amperage e.g. 24v X 10a = 240W, this would be weak for peak power and definitely not enough to tackle hills as I can attest, my first attempt to convert my bike was with a 250W front hub kit which was alright for getting up to 15mph on the flat but failed miserably to provide meaningful assistance getting up hill so I returned it (buy from a UK shop to facilitate returns). This page on the UK Pedelecs website has more about UK E-Bike regulations and you can search the forum/ask questions about what types of bikes/kits with higher peak power are legal/fall under the "250W continuous rated power" definition.

If you decide to purchase a factory built E-Bike, try this website for suggestions between 1-2,000GBP. Try to find out the weight of the bike and where the battery is mounted makes a big difference to the balance. I first tried a battery on my rear rack but that meant I locked up the back wheel when braking hard, I then tried one mounted to the down-tube in place of the water bottle and the bike is better balanced.

If you decide to go the DIY kit route the front chain ring adapter so you can mount a lower tooth count ring than the kit supplied chain ring - you should be aiming for no more than 10 tooth difference (and preferably fewer) between the front and rear gears for hill climbing comfortably. I own this kit and reckon this would be the minimum you need to tackle hills with pedalling, and for steep stretches you will be standing on the pedals. You can buy a USB adapater and download Bafang software to change the controller settings, this would invalidate your warranty, I uprated my controller to 18a and set a 17mph controller speed limit because it's street legal where I live and the extra power makes a big difference climbing hills - no more standing on pedals. The Bafang kit is rather delicate for the ham-fisted like me, I have destroyed a couple of non-essential cables/wires coming out of the motor through clumsiness, you should either zip-tie everything down before you go for a test-ride, or buy a factory E-Bike that routes cables though the frame.

2) I notice some E-Bikes have what's known as 'Pedal assist' and some also have a throttle in addition - can you explain the difference?
A: There are two types of pedal assist - cadence sensors act as an on-off switch for the motor when they detect you are pedalling - torque sensors detect how much effort you are putting into pedalling and increase power to compensate. Most cheaper E-Bikes & kits use a cadence sensor which is perfectly adequate because you modulate power by changing the PAS level. An E-Bike throttle might be a twist grip similar to what you find on a moped/scooter, or it may be a thumb-push or trigger switch. Some find throttles helpful when starting from stand still because you don't have to pedal to get going.

3) I guess mudguards would come in handy for wet weather trips, would I be able to add them later?
A: Yes, or your tires will throw muddy water onto your trousers and up your back. Hopefully your bike should come with brazed-on eyelets/lugs for screws - look on the inside of the frame near the top and bottom of the stays - otherwise you would need p-clamps to wrap around the stays.

Hope this helps
2 days ago
I think since the Radrover is a Class II ebike with a 20 mph top speed, the gearing is made to support that speed limit. I have a decline of 5400ft to 4900ft on my work commute and can reach speeds up to 23 mph in PAS 5 with watts at 000. Even if I had additional taller gears, I think I can only maintain the +23 mph on a decline anyways because the bike is so heavy and the upright riding position. That speed feels pretty fast to me on a bike considering I only have a helmet and my instincts to avoid cars, road debris, obstacles, and occasional non-attentive driver on public streets. I think I wouldn't want a Class III bike with a +28 mph top speed and skinny tires for that reason.

I kinda learned to pedal to around 60 rpms (+- 5 to 10 rpm) and keep my watts as low as I can when possible regardless of mph as the most comfortable speed to travel. That can be sometimes at PAS 3-4 and/or 4-6 gear depending on how level the terrain, type of wind, conserving battery power for +25 mile ride, how crowded the roads/trails are, or how tired I feel. I find myself only using PAS 5 in short burst or on long declines to keep my mph +20.

You also have the option of entering the LCD screen set-up options (press and hold the up/down arrow at the same time and use the mode button to scroll the options of tire size, motor cut off, LCD brightness, and km or mph setting). The second screen is the motor cut off speed and it should be set to 32 k/hr (20 mph). You can adjust the motor cut off in 1 k/hr increments from 12 k/hr (7 mph) up to 40 k/hr (25 mph). You might be able to adjust the motor cut off speed for the right pedal feel in PAS 5 on level ground where it doesn't feel like a hamster on exercise wheel. I set mine to 35 k/hr (21.7 mph) and that feels like the right rpms for me, maintains my speed, and keeps my watts low when commuting.

The Radrover is really tail heavy, I have a rack+bag with panniers, I wear a commuter back pack with work cloths/warm weather gear/lunch, and I'm 6'3" and around 270lbs with winter gear on in the morning. The extra tail heavy weight (and top heavy for me) usually isn't a problem for straight level commuting. I can feel it when riding the dirt single track trails (sometimes take detours after-work to ride the trails before heading home). I've learned to lower my seat a little on the trails and that helps when I need to shift my weight back and low on steep declines and try to keep the bike balanced for traction. On inclines, I learned to lower my gear, stand up and lean forward, bring my torso down to change the center of gravity for front/rear balance and rear traction, and slowly apply the throttle when needed when heading up steep inclines (PAS is usually in 2-3 when trail riding). I added a thumb throttle from Amazon and that makes it easier to maintain my grip and regulate the throttle power much better than just the twist action. You can really teach yourself a lot about how to handle the heavy Rad on trail riding you can't get from paved bike or street riding. I'll say to hit the trails over and over until you can ride them by memory almost.

I think the battery is doing a double function of showing its capacity at any given time and showing the load on the cells during high power comsumption. I've seen the battery indicator down to 1-2 bars at PAS 5 when I'm just 100 yards from my front door. Once I level out and get to cruising speed, it jumps back up to 4-5 bars depending on the incline/decline. When the hub is accelerating (especially hard in PAS 4-5), I think it is showing the amount of power being consumed. I try to concentrate more on the watts than bar % readings. If I can keep the watts at or below the 200-350 mark on average in any PAS level with occasional 500 watt or less peaks, I know I can get +30 miles from the battery. Consistently above 500 watts with more +650 watts peaks and plateau will drop my range by half. I wish our controller was smart like some ebikes that give you a distance till empty indicator depending on PAS level; but, I didn't want to spend $3000-$5000 just for that and end up in the same place.

My front and rear brakes squeak like crazy on both bikes. I don't know if it is the pad, rotors, or my fat butt. I will be checking into upgrading the pad material first and then rotor second down the road.

The new full Radrover fenders are very nice; but, a little too expensive since I have two bikes (have the original RR fenders). I don't like to ride when it is wet, snowy, or muddy out and the fenders choice I have work to keep road debris and occasional mud clump from hitting me (rear rack also keeps stuff from hitting me). Another issue I have is my vehicle platform bike rack (Saris Freedom SuperClamp 4) secures my bikes with a front/rear arm on the top of the tires right where the new longer fenders covers the tires. I don't think I could secure my bikes enough for transport just using the top of the fender?

You might want to check out a suspension seat post from Thudbuster, Cirrus body float, or Suntour NCX SP-12. I also added a larger seat from Sunlite called the Cloud-9 (it is 12.5 by 11.5 and very comfy). I'm also playing with PSI and leaning towards lower PSI on trail riding of 15-18 and higher PSI on commuting of 20-25. Still experimenting to find the right combo and sweet spot for both types of surfaces.
Eddy Rush
2 days ago
Hello Ann,

Thanks for getting back to me.

Ok, to keep good order and in good favour with the admins I'll pose all my questions in the 'Help Choosing an Ebike' section.
George S.
1 month ago
It's an issue that those of us who would like to ride legal ebikes shouldn't ignore. We'll all get painted with the same brush.
Sure, if someone rides a 1500 watt electric bike on a bike path and plows into someone, the authorities could take the easy way out and say "We don't need electric bikes of any kind on the bike paths."

I don't know if Karl has made the case that high power ebikes would be a big selling point. First off, after California, it can't really happen. Second, you are better off with a basic Zero if you are out in traffic, in a city. So it's about license and registration and insurance. You say "I won't pay those costs and I'll pretend I'm an ebike". It's your decision and most of the time it 'works out'. You don't get in an accident. You don't get stopped by a cop.

I think there is a one violation rule. If they catch you once, they do something restrained. But you are in the system with a violation of some kind, even a warning. Do it again? They aren't so nice.
Ann M.
1 month ago
So what's your point @Nutella? There's room for both and I've built a number of higher watt systems on heavy electric trikes to compensate for the extra weight and some systems for folks who were adamant about speed but do we call something that does 50mph an ebike? You walk into a motorcycle shop and you can buy a little gas powered ride that goes about the same or less but it has to be registered and insured, same as with a Zero or Brammo Electric Motorcycle along with other Chinese product. None of those can be ridden in a bike lane or on the sidewalks, they're offroad or solely street vehicles. Here, in Austin ebikes that are legally classified as a bike have a few more options as to where they can ride to keep them safe from car traffic or have the additional plus of popping onto the front of a city bus.
1 month ago
"Much of this haze is a result of bikes or production product advertised as an ebike when it is actually a motorcycle; example, Stealth Bomber at 50mph."

There's no shortage of people who make them and those who ride them who consider anything with an electric motor and pedals an ebike. It's an issue that those of us who would like to ride legal ebikes shouldn't ignore. We'll all get painted with the same brush.

Ann M.
1 month ago
There is so much that is misleading and confusing since a 350 watt hub motor does not have the power output of a 350 watt mid drive. We're talking 35 - 40 Nm for the hub and 80 - 90 Nm for a 350 watt mid drive. Remember, it's not just brute speed that propels a rider up a hill; you need torque, which is that climbing ability.

A 750 watt mid drive would be pretty awesome for both cases of speed and torque for most riders except for those who think they need to go as fast as a car. Then they face other safety issues based on the strength of the frame and adequate brakes for speed exceeding 35mph. Most of the issues about ebikes on trails comes from a lack of awareness or experience with the ebikes currently available; with some false thoughts that these bikes do more harm than a regular mountain bike. Much of this haze is a result of bikes or production product advertised as an ebike when it is actually a motorcycle; example, Stealth Bomber at 50mph. That product is not an ebike but a motorcycle that is electric.
1 month ago
The view from across the pond might be a tad amused by this debate, as most European countries allow the use of Ebikes on MTB trails, and without a doubt MUCH less debate and open hatred from so called elitists and purists.

It ( the American debate) reminds me of the open warfare that existed with the environmentalist and off road motorcyclists some 30 years age, where actual physical attacks took place in the Mojave desert when reason gave way to fanatical idealism. Granted its far and above the situation with Ebikes and trails, but nonetheless the same mentality with both groups.

Personally I find the reasons for trail limitations for Ebikes absurd, given that hard breaking and side sliders by the "purists" do as much damage as any Ebike ridden on the same trail, yet their reasoning excludes this point when this subject is debated.

The posts above that relate the "person" and not the device as having the responsibility to maintain a sensible conduct on any trail or park is indeed correct, as the bike (regardless of power) knows only the impute of its rider.

Perhaps Europe is more liberal in its mindset when mountain bike areas are used by BOTH purists and Ebikes without the hostility that has become more predominate in the U.S, which in most peoples eyes is silly and takes away from why you ride in the first place!

If peoples idealism supersedes their love of nature and the enjoyment of being in it, then perhaps they should choose another political platform to vent their frustrations.
Nailed it!!!
Chris Nolte
1 month ago
I was going to try to register an ebike to see what happened. My initial road block was insurance, but apparently Veloinsurance can offer what's necessary to register. I never felt inclined to move forward, but I have often considered it. I think it would be possible in some states. I'm certainly not advocating for it though.
Chris Nolte
1 month ago
Curtis Paddock
Thanks Ravi, I have been zeroing in on the evo 45 for my first ebike/car replacement. I love that it has every feature I would want in a ready-to-ride package. Probably will add a Body Float and still stay under 5K. Moving to San Diego in 30 days and can't wait to test drive one. Alooooha!
That seems like a great place for an ebike! I was there last year for a dealer event and I felt like I would hardly have a need for a car there. I recently went car free here in Brooklyn and I've been really enjoying it despite the bad weather. Good luck out there and make sure to keep us posted! I'm always excited to hear of others making the switch
Mark Peralta
1 month ago
Hi Ebike community,

I have just discovered this forum after awhile of research, I am glad I did! I would like some opinions/assistance in planning my build that will be carried out and completed by Fall of 2017.

Here is the environment my bike will face:
Daily commute of less than 20 miles (college campus)
Chance of rain or snow, much more likely for rain
Up and down steep hills
Bumpy brick roads and potholes

I presume that the first step is finding a donor bike. I am on a college budget but have about a grand to get everything I need. I really like the look of some classic beach cruisers but am not a fan of their lack of suspension, and lack of disk brakes. Does anyone have any bike recommendations? Should I consider finding individual parts (frame, fork, wheels, etc?)
I would suggest you look for a donor bike that you like. Preferably with a large triangle for the battery and then put on a kit. A complete kit with the battery is about $770, and that is with a stealthy geared hub motor (reasonable for hills).
There is another hub drive option which is a direct drive but it is heavy and power hungry (depletes battery quickly).
Here's the pros and cons between 2 hub drives.

And third option is the mid drive kit which is more complicated and needs TLC on operating the bike and wears down the chain and cassette quickly, but a favorite by many experienced DIYers who already had other ebikes..
1 month ago
Chris Nolte
My favorite compact bike is the Tern Vektron. Most ebike manufacturers say their motor systems don't need maintenance but the Bosch system is the only system where that has really proven to be true in our experience. Most of the bikes in our shop are Bosch powered for this reason.

Regarding the internally geared hub, there are slight advantages to it, but it's not a major difference from a derailleur if cared for. Either way you'll probably want to get a tune-up about once a year if you use the bike frequently, but that can be handled by any competent bike shop. If your budget is $3500 for a folding/compact bike I would recommend the Tern Vektron. If you could stretch it a bit and you'd like some upgraded parts you should consider the Tinker. The Tinker has a suspension fork, better lights, higher performance motor, a larger battery different drivetrain options. Both bikes are great, but I want to be clear the value is in each of the bikes for the money as well.

I hope that helps.
Been meaning to respond to what you said about the Tinker having better lights than the Vektron-do you really think the Tinker has better lights? Tern really talks up their front light.

Kenny B
1 month ago
This is the best folding ebike for the money that I know of: http://www.motostrano.com/BLIX-Vika-Folding-Electric-Bike-p/vikaplus.htm
1 month ago
Hi Ann

There are a couple BH still in our deals page yes: http://www.motostrano.com/Ebike-Discounts-s/3034.htm

Tony P
1 month ago
Ann M.
RPE at 888-456-9410 to see if they have this BMS or something comparable?
I ordered a BMS from ebay but it does not have a third wire to the controller. When that wire is not connected the display does not indicate the current battery change level. I would prefer to use an original IZIP BMS that has the third wire. If I cannot find one I'll live without the display.
Ann M.
1 month ago
RPE at 888-456-9410 to see if they have this BMS or something comparable?
Highway Star
11 months ago

Also I restored the original battery by running a razor along the top edge of the plastic lid then popping it off exposing the battery fill cells that have rubber caps that pop off with a screwdriver then filled with battery acid from the local auto parts and it works great again after 12 years of sitting. Plenty of videos on restoring sealed battery's on youtube.

Highway Star
11 months ago

got me a new 36V BATTERY from Jerry and it fits perfectly into the case, but it does not have screw in terminals only lead tabs. So I didn't want to cut the original wires so I made 2-2 inch jumpers and soldered them to the eye leads then plugged them to the battery works great with no chopping....

Highway Star
11 months ago

got me a new 36V BATTERY from Jerry and it fits perfectly into the case, but it does not have screw in terminals only lead tabs. So I didn't want to cut the original wires so I made 2-2 inch jumpers and soldered them to the eye leads then plugged them to the battery works great with no chopping....

Cyclo TeChTwIsTeR
1 year ago

This is the man that has all the parts you will need and yes a battery to fit inside as it should.

He also has the bikes For sell
Call 305 687 8484 for Free Tech SupportWe have the largest inventory of original parts for the EVG EBikes.

David Clein
2 years ago

The controller is not in the battery case. it is housed in the body. Lead acid is available (36v 9Ah) to rebuild the original battery pack. putting the primary battery pack on the rear rack is stupid.

David Clein
2 years ago

+ElectricBikeReview.com Six 6 volt / 9 AH (5.95" x 1.34" x 3.70") SLA batteries with F2 terminals wired in series fit into the battery box. With a little crimping and soldering these are the closest thing to a drop in replacement for the original discontinued 36V "Long" battery. With this set-up expect range of 8 miles in full power mode with little to no pedaling and 15 miles in low power mode.

2 years ago

+David Clein Great feedback David, thanks for chiming in! I was doing my best to piece together the facts about this bike but was doing it with limited input. You're welcome to share your expertise here anytime :)

2 years ago

I have the 24 volt version, and I'm trying to figure out what some of the switches do on the left side of the handlebar.  Battery pack can be refurbished with UPS batteries.  I did it to mine

Adam Feathers
2 years ago

I bought 2 eBikes in 1999 at a Oldsmobile Dealer in central Pa. and put them away in 2001 after one fell down and broke the key switch . They both look like brand new but I'm not sure what to do with them since I don't know if they're is any place to get parts or the repairs done (in Pa.). When I put them away I replaced both batteries (probably shot now). It would be a shame to just junk them . I would like to get them repaired this spring and use them again, they were great and a lot of fun to ride !

2 years ago

+Adam Feathers Hi Adam! Sounds like a fun project. I'm sure there are people who will collect these someday, even a few who want parts or originals right now. You could just keep them stored and eventually sell them on eBay or the forums: http://electricbikereview.com/community/forums/for-sale/

Ron Warrick
2 years ago

I bought a 24v about ten years ago for $650 and it is still going, but I really need to upgrade to make it faster and also get away from SLA's.  Any ideas appreciated. 

2 years ago

Hi Ron! So glad to hear the eBike worked well for you. As for your next bike, I guess it depends on what your cycling needs are. I've created a full list of some of my favorite bikes in each category including one value and one performance here: http://electricbikereview.com/top-10-electric-bikes/ check it out, each review has a video and all the specs, chime in if you have any comments, there's also a forum to discuss with other riders and owners: http://electricbikereview.com/community/

3 years ago

On the throttle, almost any 5k ohm potentiometer controlller will work on these ebikes.

3 years ago

Thanks for the great tips +HostileHST 

3 years ago

I had the 24 volt version that would only go 12 mph under power, but it sure did help going up hills. The 36 volt version I believe would go around 18 mph and if you pushed into the 48 volt range (controller needs replaced or modified), you could see about 23 mph. 36 volt packs can easily be made with some soldering abilities. The batteries to do this are still being made.

Kit Babcock
2 years ago

Ron....the 24v heinzmann rear hub can be over volted to 50v, though using a stock EVG ebike 36v controller starts to get hot and "beeps". Shutting off the power and back on again resets it, but I'm running 46.2v's and it's fine.

DON'T over volt the stock EVG ebike 24v controller, as it has a max voltage around 29v before it blows the 26v range capacitors! If done, the lights will still work, but you get NO throttle response!. This was a common error when a 36v SLA battery box was put in a 24v ebike. I'm using the 24v/400watt rear hub on a 36v setup bike. Because of spun one-way stock bearings in the 36v hubs. Or I'm swapping in 36v motors into the 24v hubs that don't have spun bearings.

The 400watt hubs are setup for speed and not torque like the 36v 500watts hubs.

Though understand that there is a design flaw in the hubs as they use a pressed on one-way bearing. BIG guys riding these bikes and giving them full throttle can spin them! The motors works, but your now stuck in "mud" and slipping.  :-)

Here is an article on ES for the spun bearing:


I'm looking into using a laser welder to fix this problem. You want low heat as the sealed bearing has a plastic cap to hold in the grease. Your welding the bearing to the axle.

Made sense?

Ron Warrick
2 years ago

+Kit Babcock   Good stuff.  Can you clarify whether you are talking about converting a 24 v, or a 36v?  It sounds like you are shooting for 40 volts or so here.  Mine is 24v, so I don't want to burn it out.  Thanks.

3 years ago

Oops, didn't see that was for Kit, but it's all good info he shares and I would have gone that way, but had to sell mine so we had money to move a little over a year ago. Wish I could get another one, but haven't seen one for sale recently.

3 years ago

NP at all, always trying to help when I can. Glad you put it on the forum.

3 years ago

+Kit Babcock Kit, this is awesome! Thanks for the tips. If you don't mind, I also shared your words on the forum where another individual was trying to figure out how to replace his 24v battery for an EV Global Mini http://electricbikereview.com/community/threads/ev-global-mini-ebike-battery-replacement.262/ feel free to amend or add your voice there as well. I referenced your comment and linked here so he might reply as well.

3 years ago

It reminds me of a Velosolex, but cooler because it is electric.

3 years ago

Sort of resembles an early caveman version of an Opti Bike. Obviously ahead of it's time.

Aaron Martin
3 years ago

Ya in 2002 i did not know that there was a e-bike for sale.

3 years ago

I agree Aaron, this thing was full of neat features and way ahead of its time. With a lighter weight battery it could be on-par or even at the leading edge of more modern bikes.

Aaron Martin
3 years ago

That is a cool bike.

3 years ago

Yep, it's one of the first ebikes ever in the US and... you are the first to comment ;)

Vũ Nguyễn
3 years ago