Total Weight:
51.5 lbs (23.35 kg)
Battery Weight:
6.5 lbs (2.94 kg)
Motor Weight:
7.6 lbs (3.44 kg)
Frame Material:
Hydroformed Aluminum Alloy 6061
Frame Sizes:
15.75 in (40 cm)17.32 in (43.99 cm)18.9 in (48 cm)20.47 in (51.99 cm)Frame Types:
Mid-Step
Frame Colors:
Matte Black with Blue and Yellow Accents
Frame Fork Details:
RockShox Sektor Gold Solo Air Suspension with Rebound Adjust, Remote Lockout and 150 mm Travel, 15 mm Thru Axle
Frame Rear Details:
RockShox Monarch RT Air Shock with Rebound Clicker, 142 / 12 mm Thru Axle
Gearing Details:
20
Speed 2x10 Shimano Deore XT , 11-36TShifter Details:
Shimano Deore triggers on Left and Right
Cranks:
FSA CK-745 Cranks, FSA X-10 Chainring, 42T
Pedals:
XLC Freeride, Plastic Platform with Alloy Pins
Headset:
FSA No. 57, A-Head, Semi-Integrated, Tapered
Stem:
Xduro Aluminium, A-Head
Handlebar:
Sduro Lowriser Aluminium
Brake Details:
Shimano M615 Hydraulic Disc with 203 mm Front and 180 mm Rear Rotors, Shimano M615 Levers
Grips:
XLC Ergo Sport, Rubber, Lock On
Saddle:
Selle Royal Sirio
Seat Post:
XLC Pro, Remote Drop, Aluminum Alloy
Seat Post Length:
300 mm
Seat Post Diameter:
31.6 mm
Rims:
Taurus, 584 x 21c, Alloy-Double Wall
Spokes:
Sapim Leader, Stainless Steel 14G, Black
Tire Brand:
Schwalbe Nobby Nic Performance, 27.5" x 2.36"
Wheel Sizes:
27.5 in (69.85cm)Tire Details:
Foldable
Tube Details:
Presta
Other:
Locking Removable Battery Pack, Quick Release Wheels and Seat Tube, Cable Inlets, Replaceable Plastic Skid Plate, Gravity Casting Motor Mount Interface with CNC Milled Connection and Bearing Seat Points, Zero Cadence Assist
Greg
9 years agoCourt, in your opinion is the Bosch system worth the price difference between the sduro and xduro lines?
ReplyCourt Rye
9 years agoYes absolutely.
ReplyTom
9 years agoHi Court, great review once again! I’m about to purchase one of these Haibikes, but I’m torn between the sduro SL and sduro RC. I noticed you have mentioned the main difference is the double chainring vs single. I’m not a crazy off roader or would be taking the bike to its limit so I don’t think the upgraded components between the SL to RC would matter much. But for the extra $, do you think the double chainring and drop post is worth it? I can get the RC for $475 more then the SL at my local shop. Do you know if the single chainring is upgradable to double on the SL? to be honest I prefer the color combo of the SL over the RC.
Another option is the xduro fullseven rc, I can get that for $700 more then the SL. You seem like a big fan of the Bosch motor, but just not sure if an extra $700 for that motor would really be noticeably to me. Since I mainly be using my bike on paved roads and occasional dirt/gravel trails. Let me know what you think about the SL vs the RC or go the extra mile and get the xduro fullseven rc? If the SL single chainring is upgradable to the double that would be ideal. As I could save some $ and still get the double chainring and have my preferred color combo. Thanks
ReplyCourt Rye
9 years agoHi Tom! Great questions, I think the SL would be a solid bike if it truly has the large removable LCD and the remote button pad. I reviewed an SL model from the women’s collection that had a very basic LED console with the buttons built in and lacked a USB port and the Eco+ level of assist… It actually worked fine but was a definite downgrade. My understanding is that the SDURO ALLMTN SL does have the nicer LCD but double check that (please let me know if you’ve seen it in person). The SL would be fine for what you’re describing and ~$500 is a solid savings… Having tried both XDURO and SDURO models I definitely prefer the Bosch drive system but that’s because I prefer to spin and enjoy the cadence feel vs. torque sensing feel of Yamaha. I also love the Intuvia display panel and the tighter battery integration. In my mind, it’s just better… but I still love the SDURO models and $700 could go a long ways towards buying something else. Since my focus is all about ebikes I’d pay more and upgrade but I know I would still be very happy with the SDURO and given your position I think the SL model sounds fine, I usually never shift the front gears anyway ;)
ReplyDane
9 years agoI’m having the same dillema, ALmnt RC or Almnt SL. I haven’t been able to find a dealer that has both to compare in person. In fact dealer in Venice CA had only two hardtails with yamaha motors which is not what I’m interested. They said they will get back to me when the ALLMNT gets shipped. Let me know what was your final decision?
ReplyHassan
9 years agoHi please help me, I’m located at Toronto and very close to pull the trigger to buy ebike full suspention, I can’t decide what I should get, I’m 135 kg and 180 cm. But away I can spend $5800 Canadian. I’m going to use it to go downtown and 33 km mild uphill coming back from downtown, I had knee surgery so this going to best option I guess.
ReplyCourt Rye
9 years agoHi Hassan, I hope my reply reached you soon enough! I love the Haibike line but would recommend spending more for the XDURO Bosch powered bikes because they don’t take as much pressure to activate and if you have a sensitive knee that would be ideal. You may look for the 45 cm frame size as you and I are very similar in height and this is what fit me best. There is also a 50 cm frame size for most that works well. Any of the full suspension models would work for you in the correct size if you’re just riding around town (but probably not the downhill model). Check out the Haibike XDURO FullSeven. Also, here is a video of my uncle talking about using a full suspension Haibike to commute to work just like you’re talking about doing!
ReplyLutz
7 years agoCourt, have you ridden the SDURO? The Yamaha motor has the zero cadence, torque NOW system, Bosch does not. In fact, the Yamaha torque and control unit is so good that I leave the bike in one gear, the highest, and find that this covers 80% of the terrain. No stress on knees, and even spinning like a dervish the Yamah motor does not cut out. This all-terrain riding though where I rarely go over 20mph. The Bosch is fine on a trekking bike I ran in Germany on a bike path tour, but for bad knees starting in a gear that’s two numbers too high only the Yamaha will do.
Marcel
8 years agoHi there , I’m really worried about the range you get on the bike. What are your honest estimates with range. I weigh 172lbs. Are there better ebikes out there with better range. I will be doing mostly paved roads , some gravel and the weekend trail in the woods ? Thanks
ReplyCourt Rye
8 years agoHi Marcel! In my experience the mid-drive units from Bosch XDURO can truly get 60+ miles per charge if you’re using the lowest assist level and are riding on flat paved surfaces (without a lot of wind). The estimates are based on a 160 lb rider… Unfortunately I don’t have as much in-depth experience with the Yamaha SDURO but their lowest assist seems to offer less power so you could get as much or even more range. Yes, there are higher capacity further ranged electric bicycles out there and one company to consider is Focus (or Kalkhoff, both part of the Pon group but Kalkhoff is more on-road vs. Focus being a bit of off-road too). They also use mid-drive motors but the output is 250+ vs. 350+ on Bosch and Yamaha. Hope this helps! I have a lot of love for Haibike for their style, value and warranty, my preference is the Bosch XDURO but Yamaha is decent too :)
Replyo.c rider
8 years agoI actually own this bike and have put a few hundred miles on it. I also own a 2015 Xduro FullSeven RX (same bike Court owns I think), and a Felt Dual-e, (also with the Bosch system). I have quite a few miles on the Bosch system under my belt and on the Yamaha system, which is rare, so I think it would be helpful to share what I’ve learned. I’ve ridden both down super steep, technical, trails and hammered them hard. Through creeks, loose rocks, mud, tree roots, you name it. I’ve been mountain biking since 1992.
Here in orange county we have a riding area called Whiting Ranch and there’s a trail called Mustard. At the end of Mustard is a pretty steep hill, most average to below average guys walk up for the last 20 ft to give you a mental picture, its the end of a pretty long climb to the top. I did back to back to back comparison tests up the last 100 feet of this trail, Bosch vs. Yamaha. They feel different. By different I mean different. The Bosch makes you feel like you’re moving faster, cause like Court says you’re spinning a little lower gear on the Bosch. The reality is that the Yamaha actually has a lower final gear ratio, you can spin if you want just like on the Bosch. But on the Yamaha it’s easy to push a little higher gear and thus travel a lot faster, and BTW this is Bosch Turbo mode vs. Yamaha High (both systems at the highest settings). I’m not talking about blow out your knees pushing up a hill, the bikes are on the highest boost mode, you’re not gonna kill yourself of anything let’s get real. If you raced your friend and your skills were equal, I believe the Yamaha bike is a bit faster up hills, just a bit, like one bike length over a 100 foot race up a hill faster. It’s a faster bike up hills was my conclusion, but not by much, either bike you’re still basically lance armstrong compared to any other rider on the trail. But this is not the full story.
By the way, on the Yamaha system I see no reason to ever shift the front into the large chain ring. You could take it off really. You just never need it. Re-reading I’m wondering if Court test rode the bike in the large chain ring in the front, maybe leaving him with the impression that you had to really push the bike to get speed? (the bike is on the large front in the video picture?) The boost stops at 20mph and that’s right about where the smaller front chain ring leaves you. To shift up to the large front chain ring would be in situations where you’re pedaling over 20mph, and that’s where the computer fights you and resists going over 20, totally pointless to fight the system to get to 25 or whatever. I’m sure they spec’d the 2×10 drive just to save dollars, the Yamaha system should be a 1×10, or 1×11 just like the Bosch in my opinion.
Anyways, the full story with the Yamaha bike is that it costs less than the Bosch system. Quite a bit less. And the Sduro AllMtn’s have 150mm of suspension vs my other bikes 120mm. Big huge fat difference. 150mm is so much better, especially on a 50lbs bike. I’ll never go back. Also here’s the biggest dirty secret on Bosch bikes: the 16t front sprocket + wet/sand/mud = Chain suck. Lock the cranks cold, chain suck. Ruin your ride chain suck. Get so frustrated you dip your drivetrain in a creek to try to fix it chain suck.
16t front is just too small, plain and simple. Bosch could’ve spec’d at least a 18t or maybe a 20t and changed the internal gearing. But for some reason they didn’t. Ok on BOTH my Bosch bikes, it’s the same story. The SES pulley on the Haibike might help, but I’ve got the suck on both very annoyingly so. It’s when the chain gets dirty basically. Look at the bosch equipped bike, it’s pretty simple, combine Lance Armstrong on PED’s amount of torque, a regular mid-grade $20 bike chain, and a smaller-than-even-a-singlespeed 16t front sprocket and the numbers don’t add up. Something’s gotta give. I’ve replaced the chain with X01 and it helped but when it gets wet and muddy or sandy look out, it’ll ride around the front sprocket like a merry go round and lock the cranks on you. In every gear. I’ve troubleshot it. There’s no escape. Bring a can of aerosol spray chain clean/lube with you if you ride bosch in wet. I’ve talked to Bosch people. They have no solution other than keep it clean, replace chain, replace sprocket.
The Yamaha system is so simple in contrast, it reminds me of a toyota truck. It just works. Nothing fancy, just plain works. Bosch is like VW – meaning it leaves me wondering if German engineering is so amazing, why aren’t they the most reliable cars on the road? I’m exaggerating a bit, but seriously Bosch is nice but I’m more of a Honda guy than a Mercedes guy.
So to sum up this stupidly long post, if the Bosch bikes and Yamaha bikes from Haibike were equipped exactly the same and priced exactly the same I’d still choose the Yamaha for its drivetrain simplicity. But the fact that the Yamaha bikes are priced almost a $1000 less? No brainer, Yamaha.
ReplyCourt Rye
8 years agoGreat feedback, excellent points! Thanks for taking the time to share it all… I may have been in the larger ring for this review as you suggest but have ridden other SDURO (Yamaha) bikes where there was only a 1×10 drivetrain and it still felt like a lower RPM activation range with lower speed outputs which just wasn’t as satisfying for me as Bosch. I’ve heard 80 RPM for Yamaha and 95-100 for Bosch? It’s totally a style thing and I was indeed impressed with Yamaha and their lower price. As for the smaller sprockets and chain suck… yeah, I’ve heard about this from other high-level riders, here’s a thread where EddieJ shows his muddy bike and talks about it. Apparently Bosch lets each bike maker decide on sprocket size and they range from like 16T to 20T which might help. It’s a trade off, glad both are in the space working to make their stuff even better :)
ReplyJohn Watts
8 years agoHi Court. I have been reading your reviews and have enjoyed them. I would like some input on making a selection of an ebike. I have looked at and had a short test ride on Pedego’s Ridge Rider 27.5 Mountain Bike, Specialized Turbo Levo FSR Comp 6Fattie and Haibike”s AllMtnSL. I am an above knee amputee and when I ride i get about fourth the power on my down ward stroke out of my artificial leg than my good leg. When i road the Haibike i was watching the power bar on the left of their screen and really noticed the lack of power my artificial leg produced it was down about a fourth or less of my other leg. So my question considering most of my power comes out of one leg which ebike system would recommend for me. I saw that you mentioned the Bosch system for some one with a bad knee. I am leaning tward Haibike’s AllMRsl right now of the bikes I have tested, they did not have any of the Bocsh system bikes to try. The Specialized bike I tried seem to slow down fast when you stoped pedealing, not much glide, maybe its the faty tires. Thank you
ReplyCourt Rye
8 years agoHi John, great to hear your thoughts on this… my own experience with the SDURO Yamaha system is that it makes you push harder than with the higher levels of XDURO Bosch models. You can still get a workout (and possibly struggle with your artificial leg) if you use the lowest assist but the higher ones are awesome. I feel that the system balances cadence and torque for power output vs. relying more heavily on torque. Another model I’ve been hearing about that might put power out for longer even if you’re not pushing as hard is the new Stromer ST2 X but I haven’t tried it yet. I have tested several Easy Motion bikes and they have some lag with assist and a throttle so you could switch to that if you needed a break. The only downside is that the throttle does not override assist… so you have to adjust it with the left button pad then twist. I hope this helps to guide you! I’d love to hear what you decide on or further feedback as you test more bikes.
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