VoltBike Enduro Review

Voltbike Enduro Electric Bike Review
Voltbike Enduro
Voltbike Enduro Bafang Max Drive Mid Motor 350 Watts
Voltbike Enduro Sanyo Battery Pack 48 Volt 10 4
Voltbike Enduro Selle Royal Ergonomic Grips Bell Shifters
Voltbike Enduro Bafang Hmi Dpc10 Display Panel
Voltbike Enduro Sr Suntour Xct Coil Spring Suspension
Voltbike Enduro Selle Royal Freccia Saddle
Voltbike Enduro Adjustable Length Kickstand
Voltbike Enduro Exa Form Air Suspension Rear Swing Arm
Voltbike Enduro 8 Speed Shimano Acera Drivetrain
Voltbike Enduro Voltbike Enduro Vs Specialized Stumpjumper
Voltbike Enduro Shipping Bubble Wrap
Voltbike Enduro Styrofoam Box Great Packing
Voltbike Enduro 2 Amp 1 Lb Charger
Voltbike Enduro Electric Bike Review
Voltbike Enduro
Voltbike Enduro Bafang Max Drive Mid Motor 350 Watts
Voltbike Enduro Sanyo Battery Pack 48 Volt 10 4
Voltbike Enduro Selle Royal Ergonomic Grips Bell Shifters
Voltbike Enduro Bafang Hmi Dpc10 Display Panel
Voltbike Enduro Sr Suntour Xct Coil Spring Suspension
Voltbike Enduro Selle Royal Freccia Saddle
Voltbike Enduro Adjustable Length Kickstand
Voltbike Enduro Exa Form Air Suspension Rear Swing Arm
Voltbike Enduro 8 Speed Shimano Acera Drivetrain
Voltbike Enduro Voltbike Enduro Vs Specialized Stumpjumper
Voltbike Enduro Shipping Bubble Wrap
Voltbike Enduro Styrofoam Box Great Packing
Voltbike Enduro 2 Amp 1 Lb Charger


  • An affordable full suspension trail bike with quiet, but powerful, mid-drive motor and integrated downtube battery pack, full-sized USB charging port on battery, adjustable top speed
  • Integrated LED headlight, backlit LCD display panel, and standard reflectors for urban riding, high-pressure tires with low-profile knobs work well on pavement or packed Earth
  • Well-placed kickstand, quick release wheels offer easy transport and serviceability, excellent weight distribution, reasonable 55.7 lb curb weight, affordable shipping with one year warranty
  • Only available in one frame size and color scheme, the seat post is too short, the stem is a bit long, 160 mm mechanical disc brakes are good enough for light light trails but not fully mountain worthy in my opinion

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Video Review

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$1,799 ($70 Flat Rate Shipping)

Body Position:


Suggested Use:

Urban, Trail

Electric Bike Class:

Pedal Assist (Class 1), Speed Pedalec (Class 3)
Learn more about Ebike classes


1 Year Comprehensive


United States, Canada

Model Year:


Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

55.7 lbs (25.26 kg)

Battery Weight:

7 lbs (3.17 kg)

Motor Weight:

8.6 lbs (3.9 kg)

Frame Material:


Frame Sizes:

19 in (48.26 cm)

Geometry Measurements:

19" Seat Tube, 23.5" Reach, 29" Stand Over Height, 74" Length

Frame Types:


Frame Colors:

Matte Black with Yellow Accents

Frame Fork Details:

SR Suntour XCT Coil Spring Suspension, 100 mm Travel, Lockout and Preload Adjust, 100/9 mm Quick Release Skewer

Frame Rear Details:

EXA Form Air Suspension, 135/9 mm Quick Release Skewer

Gearing Details:

8 Speed 1x8 Shimano Acera, CS-HG31-8 Cassette, 11-32T

Shifter Details:

Shiman Triggers on Right


8Fun AC08-2 Alloy Crank Arms, 170 mm Length, 38T Chainring with Alloy Bash Guard


Wellgo M248DU Alloy Cage Style Platform


1-1/8" Sealed Cartridge


Promax Alloy, 90 mm Length, ~8° Rise


Promax Alloy, Low-Rise, 27.5" Length

Brake Details:

Tektro Novela CS Mechanical Disc with 160 mm Rotors, 5 Star Levers with Motor Inhibitors and Rubberized Edge


Selle Royal XH-G03, Ergonomic Rubber


Selle Royal Freccia

Seat Post:

Promax, Aluminum Alloy

Seat Post Length:

200 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

30.4 mm


Samson Double Walled, 6061 T6 Alloy, 36 Hole


13 Gauge, Stainless Steel, Silver with Nipples

Tire Brand:

Kenda Small Block Eight, 27.5" x 2.1" (52-584) (650x52B)

Wheel Sizes:

27.5 in (69.85cm)

Tire Details:

30TPI Casing, Wire Bead, 40 to 65 PSI

Tube Details:

Schrader Valve


Integrated Spanninga Micro LED Headlight with Reflector, Flick Bell, Adjustable Length Kickstand, Free DOT Approved Helmet


Locking Removable Battery Pack with LED Charge Indicator, 5 Volt Full Sized USB Charging Port on Right Side of Battery, 1.1 lb 2 Amp Charger, KMC Rust Resistant Z Chain, Motor and Display Rated IP65 Against Water and Dust Ingress

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:

Bafang, Max Drive

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Geared Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

350 watts

Motor Torque:

80 Newton meters

Battery Brand:

Sanyo UR18650ZY

Battery Voltage:

48 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

10.4 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

499.2 wh

Battery Chemistry:


Charge Time:

4 hours

Estimated Min Range:

25 miles (40 km)

Estimated Max Range:

60 miles (97 km)

Display Type:

Bafang HMI DPC10, Backlit LCD, Fixed, Grayscale


Battery Level (10 Bars), Speed, Trip Distance, Odometer, Max Speed, Avg. Speed, Assist Level (0-5)

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pad (+, -, Lights, Power, i), Double Press i for Settings Menu (Trip Clearance, Units, Backlight Sensor, Backlight Brightness, Screen Auto Off Time, Maintenance Reminder, Password 0512, Wheel Diameter, Speed Limit)

Drive Mode:

Advanced Pedal Assist (Measures Pedal Torque, Cadence and Wheel Speed)

Top Speed:

20 mph (32 kph)

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Written Review

VoltBike is an online-only electric bike company based out of Burnaby Canada. They recently expanded to a shipping depot in Northern Washington to serve both markets more effectively, and to me, that’s a sign that the business is going well. I’ve reviewed a handful of their products over the years and the speed and quality of shipping have always impressed me. Not just because the bikes arrived in Texas, Colorado, and even Cabo San Lucas Mexico unscathed… but because they only charge a flat rate $70 for the US and $50 for Canada. Sometimes, it can feel like you’re getting a sweet deal on a product based on the sticker price and then you get hit with a bunch of additional fees during checkout… that’s not the case here. The Enduro expands on VoltBike’s off-road line of models which includes a fat tire ebike, a folding fat tire model, and a hardtail trail bike. It’s their first e-bike with full suspension and a mid-drive motor. This is a great combination because suspended wheels can move quicker and respond more effectively to bumpy terrain if they weigh less. They call this “unsprung weight” and it’s an important factor in the design of race cars. While the Enduro is more of a sporty looking product than a premium precision-build, it performed quite well during my off-road mountain test. I climbed, descended quickly over large rocks, hopped the bike off a few bumps, and did an on-road speed test. It’s only available in one frame size with matte-black paint for now, but the black motor, battery, and wires blend in nicely. For me, as a 5’9″ tall guy, the stem was a bit long and the seat post was too short. I adjusted the brake lever position on both sides, raised the seat post to its maximum recommended height, and slid the saddle forward to shorten reach before going out. Compared to many other order-by-mail electric bicycles, this one was easy to setup. The wheels are both attached and only the handlebar needs to be added using four bolts. VoltBike sends a small tool pouch but I only used two of the five Allen key hex wrenches, and one began to strip before everything was done. I switched to my higher-quality tools and used a bit of grease and chain lube to finish the job. The only thing you absolutely need to get this bike going is a Schrader compatible bicycle pump. It ships with lower-end Kenda Small Block Eight tires rated for 40 to 65 PSI, which is higher than most of the mountain tires I see. Higher pressure will reduce drag while sacrificing traction and smoothness. I filled them to 40 PSI because I’m not especially heavy at ~135 lbs and wanted the best traction possible for the mountain trail test. Other areas that seem a little less mountain oriented include the integrated headlight, kickstand, and ergonomic grips. I appreciate each of these features… they chose the parts well, but I think they’re most useful in an urban setting. Given the lack of bottle cage bosses, rear rack attachment, and even fender mounts, this is a bike that feels great riding around town but lacks utility. I’m trying to show the trade-offs you get with this product but honestly, it would be my first choice in the VoltBike lineup right now because I value comfort over utility, don’t mind wearing a small backpack to carry gear to work, and appreciate the efficiency and durability of the Bafang Max Drive motor vs. a hub motor.

Driving the bike is a 350 watt nominally rated mid-drive with peak torque output of 80 Newton-meters. The numbers put it in the same performance range as Bosch, Brose, Yamaha and Impulse which cost much more. It’s fairly compact, but not as good looking as the new Bosch tilted designs, and it’s one of the quietest offerings around. The areas it doesn’t stand out so much are zippiness and RPM output. Basically, you need to switch gears more actively while pedaling to accelerate quickly and ultimately reach higher top speeds. In these ways, it reminds me of the base level Yamaha mid-drive. For the price, it’s a big jump up from geared hub motors (used on all of the other VoltBikes at the time of this review) and it got me up 12% grades on a rocky dirt trail in Colorado without any issues. Of course, my speed hovered around 8 mph during these stretches… but that’s because I remained seated and focused on balance and handling vs. speed. Interestingly, the Volt Bike Enduro arrived with a maximum speed setting of 25 km/h which is roughly 15.5 mph. This is below the legal limit in the United States and Canada so I unlocked the display panel by pressing the i button twice quickly then used the password 0, 5, 1, 2 to raise the limit to 32 km/h. This made it a Class 1 trail-legal electric bike… but later on, I raised it further to 60 km/h (which it doesn’t actually hit) to get an effective speed of ~28 mph. Basically, this can be a Class 1 or Class 3 speed pedelec which makes it a contender for urban commuting if you ride on street bike lanes.

In order to climb with a 55.7 lb ebike like this, go fast, and go far, you need a good sized battery pack. The Enduro comes with a 48 volt 10.4 amp hour battery that uses Sanyo lithium-ion cells. Apparently, Panasonic purchased Sanyo in recent years and VoltBike stresses this in their marketing collateral. Panasonic is known as the top-level battery producer in the ebike space and commands a premium. I can’t say much about longevity because I only tested the bike for a few days… but Lithium-ion cells tend to hold up well over time and VoltBike offers a comprehensive one year warranty. For the price of the bike, this battery pack seems like a great deal and I love that they mounted it tighter than the older Yukon models which seemed to rattle a bit. The pack can be charged on or off the bike for convenience, I tend to remove the pack for safe storage in a cool dry location vs. leaving it on the bike at all times and it’s easy to lift because it has a little flip-out handle on the side. Plugging the pack in is easy, it uses the same port whether it’s on or off the frame and the charger is compact and very lightweight at just 1.1 lbs. My only complaint here is that the rubber cover that protects the female plug on the left side of the battery can be difficult to push in. For this reason, I regularly see people riding with the rubber cover left dangling off and this could lead to dust and water damage over time. On the opposite side, the top right corner of the pack, there’s a second rubber cover protecting a standard sized 5 Volt 2 Amp USB port. You could use this to charge a phone, music player, or additional lights but do be careful when pedaling… consider a right-angle adapter to reduce exposure to kicks and snags. Final thoughts on the battery after riding down the mountain at higher speed is that it still wobbles a bit (though the chain bounces a whole lot… so good thing it has a thick slap guard), the weight is positioned well and it wasn’t as flashy as some other packs that aren’t so integrated.

The display panel used to gauge performance and change electric assist handling is from Bafang and I believe it’s the DPC10 or some variation. I found a great resource for Bafang / 8Fun displays here and learned how to adjust settings and clear the trip meter. I like that the display feels solidly mounted but still swivels to reduce glare. It comes with one of the larger button pads with a key for lights and information as well as power, plus and minus. Compared to the Bosch button pad, this one isn’t as physically intuitive and might require a glance down. On two occasions, I pressed the information key and had it stick down because it sort of angled sideways. While it is easy to reach, fairly compact, and appears to be water resistant, it just feels a little bit cheaper and the wire running back to the display seemed short. It kept bumping into the bell and muting it. When it arrived, this cable was actually zip tied to the left brake lever motor inhibitor which allowed the bell to work perfectly, but as I adjusted the brake levers it became too tight. I’d rather have a comfortable hand position than a functional bell but maybe future versions will ship with a slightly longer cable and this won’t be an issue? One other cable seemed too short and that was a pretty important one… the shifter cable leading back to the eight-speed Shimano Acera derailleur. When I shifted to the lowest gear (the largest sprocket) the cable seemed very tight. I didn’t have a problem, but this is another area to be careful with and possibly adjust if there’s extra length up front. VoltBike has been very proactive and responsive based on my past reviews and while I believe all of their bikes are produced overseas, they seem to be doing well enough to make incremental improvements and provide feedback that isn’t just ignored by the factory. The truth is, you’re getting a lot of value here for $1,800 and a little bit of attention during assembly can go a long way. I highly recommend having a shop give it a full tuneup for ~$80 if you can. This will make it ride better and last longer because the wheels will be trued, the derailleur will shift properly and they may add grease to the pedals as I did, to reduce creaking.

I got a little off track there talking about assembly and maintenance so let’s jump back into the display. This thing has a light sensor, adjustable backlighting, a 10-bar battery infographic for precise feedback on range (though no range estimation feature). You can change the units from kilometers to miles by doing the double tap i-i trick mentioned earlier and this works without the password. I’m not sure if VoltBike intended this but the handlebar is a low-rise with enough bend to help protect the display in the event of a crash. And while it’s not removable, you can park the bike with your helmet covering the display as a way to decrease attention, reduce sun exposure, and protect from water without causing condensation. This ebike, as with most, should be highly water resistant… but don’t submerge it. Perhaps the biggest difference between the Enduro and other VoltBike models is the lack of a throttle. You have to pedal in order to get the motor going but it uses a combination cadence-torque sensor which is very responsive and fluid. You will definitely get increased range from a system like this and it’s permissible on more trails than throttle-operated products. I think instant-power can be harmful to some mid-drive systems and really stress the chain, sprockets, and derailleur if used improperly. This motor controller does not have a shift sensor and thus, you can grind the gears and cause mashing to occur if you shift hard. I tend to ease off when pedaling for a moment and then shift. When climbing, this means that I build up some speed and momentum before shifting and try to plan ahead. Worst case, it’s better to stop and push the bike than wreck the drivetrain. And by wreck, I mean break the chain or bend the teeth on the cassette sprockets. You get a lower-end eight-speed Shimano Acera with the Enduro that probably doesn’t belong on a true mountain bike. I found that the range was large enough to climb and top 20 mph comfortably but it’s just not as tight or durable as the Deore, SLX, and Deore XT Shadow Plus that I see on higher-end products. The chainring has a nice bash guard/guide metal plate that should reduce snags, impacts and chain drops. Some ebikes have a true guide with two metal plates but I didn’t experience a chain drop while riding so perhaps this is good enough.

I had a blast assembling, testing, and optimizing the VoltBike Enduro electric bike. It’s a product I wish had existed when I purchased my first ebike many years ago. Instead, I ended up with the Evelo Aries, a cool looking full suspension product that’s exciting on paper and in photos but actually has a flexy frame, very limited motor operation, a stiff non-adjustable rear suspension, and difficult battery position. It produced a lot of noise and weighed ten pounds more than the Enduro and the purchase felt like a total waste. I felt terrible at the time but appreciated how responsive and supportive the company was. That bike is a big part of why I created this website. Not everyone can afford or wants a high-end electric bicycle… but there are many trade-offs to consider at the mid and lower levels. While the VoltBike Endure may not be a perfect fit for trails or the city, it looks cool, improves comfort over hardtail models, performs quite well and blends in. Note that you may need a special pump to adjust the rear air suspension properly and that it doesn’t have markings to help you adjust it by weight… but I pumped it up to ~140 PSI and saw it perform adequately on the trail. Big thanks to VoltBike for partnering with me on this post. I did receive a service fee for the processing and editing work performed (as I do with many reviews these days) but did not get a free bike or receive a larger sum than I do from other brands. I made a longer video because I was truly interested in seeing how the bike would perform and perhaps because I wanted to help my former self. The guy who was commuting to work by bike in Austin, Texas and just wanted something a little more fun than a city style ebike :)


  • The price is pretty incredible… despite some lower end components like the eight-speed Acera drivetrain (two steps up from the base Tourney) and mechanical 160 mm disc brakes vs.
    hydraulic, it handled the trail
  • Even though most electric mountain bikes don’t have integrated lights, I appreciate that this one does because I’d probably use it for a mix of urban and trail riding, the light is compact and didn’t rattle on the trail, it also shines from the sides a bit to increase your profile
  • Stiff solid frame with good weight distribution, the mid-drive motor and downtube integrated battery pack are positioned very well
  • Removable battery shaves 7 lbs off the weight of the bike, both wheels offer quick release for easy maintenance or compact transport and storage
  • The display is large, easy to read, swivels to reduce glare, and offers a lot of adjustment options like backlight brightness, auto off, and wheel size
  • This is one of the few electric bikes that allows you to adjust the top speed, mine arrived set to 25 km/h which is ~15.5 mph, if you press the i button two times quickly, it enters the menu where you can cycle through to password (use 0, 5, 1, 2) and then change the max speed to 32 km/h for 20 mph or up to 60 km/h for close to 28 mph top assisted speed (of course, you can also go slower than 25 km/h if you’d like)
  • Shipping was very inexpensive at $70 and the bike arrived in great shape, they put styrofoam on both sides of the box as well as the front and back, they also bubble wrap the frame and sensitive hardware like the light, display, and battery
  • For someone who wants a bit of comfort but only plans to ride in the city, the ergonomic grips, larger knobby tires, and basic suspension feels pretty great, it would perform better in snow and going over bumpy roads than a hardtail or city bike
  • The battery locks securely to the frame and felt tighter than some of the older VoltBike models (I’m told they have all been tightened so they won’t rattle), you can click the battery onto the frame without the key
  • It’s nice to have access to USB power to charge your phone, GPS, music player, or additional lights, consider grabbing a right angle USB adapter to keep your plugs out of the way


  • The suspension isn’t especially smooth or long travel, you’ll probably need a special shock pump to adjust the pressure on the rear air suspension, I used this Izende mini-pump that works for Schrader and Presta valves, is light, small, and has a pressure gauge built in
  • Disc brakes are perfect for trail and mountain riding but 160 mm is kind of small and mechanical requires more hand strength than hydraulic, they also don’t have adjustable reach levers
  • The stem seems a little long, I felt like I was very stretched out horizontally and a bit squished vertically because of the short 200 mm seat post, consider replacing it with a 30.4 mm diameter 350 mm length post like this, you can always use a hack saw to shorten it if needed but make sure to have enough post in the tube to provide strength
  • There was nowhere to mount a rear rack or bottle cage bosses but that’s not abnormal for low and mid-level full suspension ebikes due to battery placement, you may be able to add fenders… if you need a rack, consider a beam rack like this or the Thule Pack ‘n Pedal
  • The tools they give you are pretty weak, I ended up using my own allen key set and nearly stripped one of the brake lever bolts trying to tighten it with the incorrect size (they didn’t include the exact size 3/16 for this part), on a sidenote, consider using some Polylube 1000 grease for mounting the pedals (just a little stripe on the threads)
  • Very minor gripe, but the display panel connection uses a press fit vs. threaded connector with a rubber washer, these aren’t as reliable or water resistant but apparently the battery, motor and display are all IP65 rated against dust and water which is cool
  • The rear air suspension doesn’t have any labeling for recommended PSI and there aren’t marks on the stanchion to sag it properly… it’s pretty basic


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7 months ago


I know they are completely different beasts, but would you say the Voltbike Yukon had better build quality than the Voltbike Enduro? Your review of that one was a bit more favorable. I’d like to get one of them this year as it’s within my price range.


Court Rye
7 months ago

Hi Geffin, I’d say they are very similar. I just didn’t go as in depth with the Yukon… had less time and wasn’t as knowledgeable about mountain bike components until recently. Both models offer good value and should hold up if you take care, perhaps the biggest letdown on the Enduro for me was the seat post length and that’s a ~$10 fix :)

7 months ago

Is this only a pedalac model or does it allow the ability to just use throttle only and no pedalling ?

Court Rye
7 months ago

Hi Scott, I asked the founder of VoltBike this same question and he explained that the mid-motor they chose isn’t setup for throttles and they couldn’t add it. That may be a bummer for some people but you could still get their hub motor hardtail Yukon 750 which does have a throttle if you want :)

Fredrick Edelkamp
6 months ago

Court, Love the HUD (Heads Up Display) on the video review! First time I’ve seen it on your videos (and I watched a lot of them) how did you do it?

Court Rye
6 months ago

Hi Frederick! I use a Garmin Edge 1000 device and then export the data file to overlay on video using the Garmin VIRB Edit software… then I take that overlayed footage and import it into iMovie before doing the rest of my normal video editing :D

Eric Larson
5 months ago

Hi Court,

Thanks for the fantastic reviews and video’s, what a wealth of information! I am trying to decide between the RAD City E-Bike and the Volt Enduro. I will be using the bike to ride trails and street’s in Seattle. Both companies are a stones throw away so I am torn down the middle on what to go with. What are the pro’s and Con’s to having a throttle? Thanks, -E

Court Rye
5 months ago

Hi Eric! I’d go with the Enduro myself because I love suspension and have a sensitive back and neck… I don’t miss the throttle that much because I like pedaling and have found that the Bafang Max Drive is very fluid and responsive. It’s one of my favorite ebike systems right now actually. Rad Power Bikes is awesome and the City model is great but unless you need the rack for carrying cargo, the Enduro is just more fun and comfortable :) but in Seattle you might get more wet without fenders :P

B Henry
1 month ago


In the end, did you find the brakes adequate? or do you recommend changing them?


Court Rye
1 month ago

Hi Henry! I was alright with the brakes for urban and light trail riding but much prefer hydraulic… and the expense of converting would make me consider upgrading to a better e-mountain bike all together. I like the Enduro, but they really had to make some trade-offs to get it to such a low price.


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5 days ago

Need a recommendation. I ride trials sections on our property. Nothing too exotic - slow and steady. Have two 2-strokes: Sherco 250 (trials) and a gasgas 250 (enduro). Looking for a fat tire Ebike that will handle rocks, logs, loose terrain. Radrover and Addmotor motan look ok. Are they capable. Thanks for your nput

2 weeks ago

Oh the 35 mm stem takes a few miles to get used to once your comfortable with the stock stem.
But the bike is so much more agile and feels 10lbs lighter with the short stem.
Also really helps on chunky drops the bike pushes through better. 180 berms the bike is much faster and more balanced, square edge drops the bike floats off and you don’t feel the need to rub you butt on rear tire to keep the front from dropping out on you.
The company i ride with are very accomplished riders on Evil wreckoning and Santa Cruz. High tower LT.
both 9k plus builds and when the trail is chunky, steep and fast the Fs3 gives them all they can handle and when it gets chattery machine gun arm rough the 50lbs monster shines and they can’t match the speed.
18 KOM on strava now with the Fs3 on lagit enduro trails that put a pucker factor on most seasoned of riders.
I went from hating this bike stock and took it back to bike shop asked them to sell it because there was no data available to set it up. To completely blown away and it was less then 400 invested in mods.
Dropper seat, 35mm riser bars, grid tires, 35mm stem, 160mm air rod, 203mm rotors, 1 air token front, 3 shock tokens rear.
The monarch rear shock is the biggest limit and keeps big air out of this bikes comfort Zone, But i take this bike on any chair lift DH run and feel solid.

2 weeks ago

I have had my 45 for a few weeks now, have made a few changes to it but i purchased it to be used as a mountain bike. Removed kick stand, converted front to 160mm travel, put 38m rider bars, 35mm head stem, revalved the forks, added 5 shock token, blew apart both Nobby nics first day, replaces front with snake skin magic Mary, Maxxis min on rear.
Unfortunately i had purchased a fs3 27.5+ few months ago and the same upgrades have lead it to be a very competative enduro bike.
So the 45 has been quite a disappointment for me. The bike is just to heavy for a 27.5 tire. Gonna try converting front to 29er and see how that goes. I wanted a faster bike then the fs3 as it shits down at 18mph was thinking the 45 give me speed on lower parts of the trail where the fs is out of assist but the smaller tires just make the bike to unsettled and the single piston calipers even with 203mm rotors just don’t cut the mustard when it’s steep. So far it really doesn’t seem to stack up to bang for the buck the FS3 is.
Revise my update once i convert to 29er
Congrats and kudos ~ I'll be curious to read your experience with 29ers on the 45. Has the shorter stem noticeably improved handling?

I also ripped the sidewalls of my FS3's stock 27.5+ "LiteSkin" Nobby Nics apart in less than 100 trail miles, long before the treads started showing any signs of wear! The few ounces saved in weight claims are hardly worthwhile on eMTBs, IMO. The SnakeSkin tires have held up brilliantly through hundreds of trail miles...

2 weeks ago

I have had my 45 for a few weeks now, have made a few changes to it but i purchased it to be used as a mountain bike. Removed kick stand, converted front to 160mm travel, put 38m rider bars, 35mm head stem, revalved the forks, added 5 shock token, blew apart both Nobby nics first day, replaces front with snake skin magic Mary, Maxxis min on rear.
Unfortunately i had purchased a fs3 27.5+ few months ago and the same upgrades have lead it to be a very competative enduro bike.
So the 45 has been quite a disappointment for me. The bike is just to heavy for a 27.5 tire. Gonna try converting front to 29er and see how that goes. I wanted a faster bike then the fs3 as it shits down at 18mph was thinking the 45 give me speed on lower parts of the trail where the fs is out of assist but the smaller tires just make the bike to unsettled and the single piston calipers even with 203mm rotors just don’t cut the mustard when it’s steep. So far it really doesn’t seem to stack up to bang for the buck the FS3 is.
Revise my update once i convert to 29er
Very informative post. Thanks!

Please let us know about any future changes that you make.

2 weeks ago

I have had my 45 for a few weeks now, have made a few changes to it but i purchased it to be used as a mountain bike. Removed kick stand, converted front to 160mm travel, put 38m riser bars, 35mm head stem, revalved the forks, added 5 shock token, blew apart both Nobby nics first day, replaces front with snake skin magic Mary, Maxxis min on rear.
Unfortunately i had purchased a fs3 27.5+ few months ago and the same upgrades have lead it to be a very competative enduro bike.
So the 45 has been quite a disappointment for me. The bike is just to heavy for a 27.5 tire. Gonna try converting front to 29er and see how that goes. I wanted a faster bike then the fs3 as it shuts down at 18mph was thinking the 45 give me speed on lower parts of the trail where the fs is out of assist but the smaller tires just make the bike to unsettled and the single piston calipers even with 203mm rotors just don’t cut the mustard when it’s steep. So far it really doesn’t seem to stack up to bang for the buck the FS3 is.
Revise my update once i convert to 29er

rich c
2 weeks ago

Talking to an guy about his used Enduro bike. The owner says it has a 5305 Crystalyte Brute. Any research I've found on that motor is quite a few years old. Anyone know when it was discontinued? The owner didn't respond to my age or battery cycle questions yet.

2 weeks ago

I recently got my second Bulls bike and wanted to give you my comparison between the RS 3 and the evo45.
Both came with bottom line Nobby nics and both bikes the tires failed in first 50 miles. Tried to go tubliss right away on 45 and the tires will not seal well and rear had to put the tube back in only to have side wall fail on first test run.
The pike fork on 45 is a much nicer more stable feel in stock form over the Yari on the RS 3. The brakes on the 45 are much larger and are solid on any decent, the brake levers on 45 are monsters and belong on a motorcycle.
As far as form and feel the bikes are quite similar, exept the RS3 climbs better even with 100 less watts power and has better battery life.
On the flats the 28mph assist is quite fun.
I suffered from stability and fork dive horribly on both bikes and ended up converting both to 160mm travel up front and added a token on both.
The rear shock on the 3 is slightly stiffer valved and has better rebound valving and i find myself running it primarily with rebound adjust closed to 3 Click from closed.
On the 45 the rear shock is absolutely pathetic, you have to run it in peddle mode all the time to get any real dampening force at all. If you try to sprint out of the saddle the bike wallows like a true DH bike without a pedal mode in suspension.
The 45 on a flat ground ride running between level 2-3 the battery went 33 miles and had one bar left.
On RS 3 on same ride it had 3+Or over 50% bars on battery left but also averaged slower speed
45 i averaged 24.8mph, RS3 average 17.9mph.
Both mine loose assist 2mph bellow the advertised max speed ratings.
RS3 shits down 18mph
45 at 26mph.
Rider review vs magazine reviews.
Every test i have read has rated these bikes fairly poorly in a few catagorys.
Climb and DH.
After hundreds of miles testing on single track, chunky, hiro dirt, loose, leaf covered, fast, pro level Gnarly, cruiser pace to 28 STRAVA DH KOM’s I have come to this conclusion.
The RS3 27.5+is hands down best bang for the buck. Few key misses on factory setup lead to failed reviews.
Grid or good snake skin tires, 160mm front, 1 add token, bigger brakes,dropper seat, 35mm stem and it’s a true enduro bike that can run with top of the line enduro bikes and feel as comfy as your couch in hands of a novice rider.

Evo45, add the additional cost of the bike and the bang for the buck deminishes. The inability to climb better with 100 additional watts, shorter battery life, 27.5 tires and the lower bottom bracket leads to increased pedal strikes, the light valving in rear shock and steep head jangle make for nervous bike that really isn’t enduro capable and this bike belongs on fire roads and entry level to novice level riding.
If the 45 was 1,000 less the RS3 27.5+ i wouldn’t feel it was an equal bang for the buck.
Maybe they build a 29er out of it and address its major short sides and it will improve its bang for buck.
Stay tuned i have a 29er front end I’m gonna put on in next few weeks see how that affects the review.

3 weeks ago

Douglas - we have since done a bit of testing and it turns that the 2nd controller is ok - its a hall sensor fault in the wheel. My mate has had a run of bad luck with these components - 1 tft display fried; 1 controller blew; and now it looks like 1 x 5000w wheel has hall sensor problems. The tft display and controller were replaced by the company after some back and forth. We have taken the wheel to a repairer to get fixed - not bothering with trying to go back to Leili. I brought a complete 5000w enduro bike from them before mate brought the separate components. My bike is about 4 months old now and has run perfect - uses same components - either I'm lucky or my mate is unlucky. Go figure. Good luck.

1 month ago

Thanks for your excellent blog of experiences to date. I currently own my first ebike, a Cyclamatic CX3 and it is outstanding! Chinese made, alloy frame; sold on line only by Shop247.com for $750 (available on Amazon); outstanding value. (I’d love to see review by Court/EBR!). It has 250w rear hub motor and 36v 10.4 amp battery. I have about 250 miles so far with no problems. I love the front suspension, and have lowered rear tire pressure to about 30+ psi to improve the ride - I’m also considering a suspension seat post. I also installed a wider more comfortable seat, and a 110mm adjustable stem to move the handlebars up and towards me; also cheap plastic fenders from Amazon. It has a great display and 9-speed controller; pedal assist only. Normally I ride at about 15-18 mph (I upped the max speed) and the range is about 20-25 miles. They say it weighs 42 lb; I travel a lot so I remove the battery and quick-release front wheel, and lay it atop all the stuff in my SUV when we travel - very manageable. For lighter weight, you may want to take a look at the Cyclamatic CX3 - I recommend it highly.
I’m already thinking about my next ebike and have enjoyed reading Court’s reviews on EBR. I’m considering the Radrover (which I love!) and the Voltbike Enduro; but they both weigh 60+ lb. so not sure about those for my travels. BTW, I’m 78, 5’10”, weigh about 178 lb. and live in Michigan. I ride 12-15 miles a day and I’ve been a bike rider on and off since my youth. Hope my ramblings are of some interest. Keep biking!

Bosch eBike Systems
2 months ago

BOOGALOO eMTB Race heading to Southern California

Join the fun at the SoCal Endurance Race at the Vail Lake Resort in Temecula, CA Nov 4th

Oct 18th, 2017 Temecula, CA – THE BOOGALOO, a Class 1 pedal-assist mountain bikes (eMTB) race and demo event presented by Troy Lee Designs & Bosch eBike Systems, is heading to Southern California after a sold-out & stoked-up race at the Kamikaze Bike Games in Mammoth. Check out this video from Troy Lee Designs recapping the race, as well as the video produced by Transworld Motocross.

The race will be held Saturday November 4th on a course specifically designed for eMTB racers and built by legends like Brian Lopes, David Cullinan, Ryan Hughes and both previous champions of the Pro Class Victor Sheldon and Evander Hughes. Expect near-vertical ascents, killer drops, obstacles, berms, and more that will take you and your eMTB to the limits of what you thought possible on two wheels.

Limited registration is filling up fast for 32 Amateur “Race of Champions” slots. The early-bird entry fee of $60 is available until Oct 31st and will have you treated like a pro for the day with a Class 1 eMTB provided by Bulls, Haibike, Raleigh Electric, and Specialized set up to your specifications. Riders will also get a custom Troy Lee Designs A1 helmet, number plate, fender and commemorative t-shirt to take home along with some great stories from the event. The fastest five will win a premium Bosch Power Drill. REGISTER NOW before all entries are sold out. Also take advantage of the early-bird pre registration price as on site entries will increase to $75 per rider.

The Pro Class eMTB race will take place immediately following the Amateur race, where pros will compete for a $2,000 purse and Power Tools.

“These events are just full of stoke. I am pumped that we are able to get the Vail Lake eMTB race together so quickly following the success of the recent Boogaloo race at the Mammoth Kamikaze Games. We have already been cutting the coarse and it’s shaping up great, this is going to be one exciting day of racing!” -Troy Lee

If racing isn’t your blood, FREE demos will be also be available before and after the race on a custom built course suited for beginner riders near the registration area of the So Cal Endurance / So Cal Enduro at Vail Lake. Bikes from Raleigh Electric, Haibike, Bulls Bikes and Specialized, will be on hand with representatives from each brand to set up and educate riders on Class 1 eMTB riding.

Demo Schedule:

Friday 11/3/17 – 1pm – 5pm

Saturday 11/4/17 – 9am – 12pm

Sunday 11/5/17 – 9am – 12pm

“I want to give a big congrats and thanks to all the our Mammoth Boogaloo racers who poured their hearts out there on the track. We had teens racing against men and women three times their age, and many legends from the extreme sports world.” said Claudia Wasko, General Manager of Bosch eBike Systems Americas. “We look forward to seeing who returns to Vail Lake to challenge our reigning Pro-Class champ Evander Hughes.”

Race Director of So Cal Endurance and So Cal Enduro, Jason Ranoa said. “ I am looking forward to hosting my first Class 1 eMTB event. We will be racing and doing demo’s on a closed course in hopes to educate MTB riders about what Class 1 eMTB is all about. You can’t help but smile after taking a lap on our course!”

Class 1 is a specific classification for sustainable use on any trail, path or riding area. Class 1 eMTB models are defined as “a human powered bicycle with fully operable pedals, and an electric motor under 750 Watts peak power that must be pedaled to activate the motor and that ceases to provide power above 20 mph”. (See Photo 4 for Class 1 visual)

Once again please visit the pre registration page for early-bird pricing by clicking here - http://www.socalendurance.net/boogaloo.html


Contacts for press inquiries:

Aaron Cooke, Proper Management

Phone: 714-720-5872


Andy Ambrosius, Tech Image

phone: +1-312-888-1628


Mike Burns
2 months ago

@Mike Burns Thank you for your insight. I love how cool the Yukon looks, but the Elegant is probably the more practical choice for my commute.

Everybody says the same thing. The Elegant is the right design mechanically but doesn't have the "attitude" or look that they want. Lots of people feel "dweeby" riding anything with a step-thru frame. I personally have no issue with the look and have never had a negative comment riding the flat-black Elegants.
No one makes a moderatly-priced, agressive-looking ebike with 2.5-3" tires. I will suggest such a mid-fat tire option on the Yukon/step-over Elegant to Voltbike. You could always put 26x2.5 Hookworms on the Yukon. I am using them on a 6000-watt full-suspension enduro bike conversion. Great traction on anything but snow, mud, sand, and deep loose gravel. Handle wonderfully on pavement even at 50 MPH. My daily driver ebike for 4 years.

2 months ago

SIMI VALLEY, Calif. (Interbike 2017) – No matter the adventure, IZIP, a leader in fun-focused electric bikes, has a bike that will amplify your fun so you can travel further and faster. Whether you’re looking to explore endless miles of unknown dirt roads and trails, change your commute to work by skipping the car ride in favor of your city’s bike paths, or spending your weekend cruising along the coast in comfort, IZIP will enable and inspire you.

Heading into this year’s Interbike trade show, IZIP unveils four new models for 2018 that span a variety of riding styles that integrate modern performance – from pavement to trails.

E3 Moda (MSRP $3,749)
Bold style compliments practicality in the speedy new E3 Moda bike that combines a max 28 MPH pedal-assist German-made Brose motor that’s integrated into the downtube with bright lights and a rear rack for cargo versatility. A workhorse commuter, the Moda efficiently clocks miles on the way to work or while you're getting some extra exercise in on the way to yoga class. With a 504Wh battery, 27.5-inch wheels for fun and stability, disc brakes, and Shimano Deore 10-speed drivetrain, the Moda, simply put, is a practical speedster.

E3 Moda

E3 Moda

E3 Dash (MSRP $2,699)
The reputable E3 Dash is a proven performer that gets you where you need to go … fast. Well known in speed pedal-assist circles as a seriously fun transporter, the Dash flattens hills and takes on long commutes with ease. Sporting a 28 MPH TranzX Center Motor, 700c wheels, RockShox Paragon front suspension fork, robust alloy fenders, and a rear pannier rack, potholes and bumps are no match for the Dash as you comfortably ride in style.

E3 Dash

E3 Zuma (MSRP $2,299)
The E3 Zuma, inspired by the beach lifestyle found at world famous Zuma Beach in southern California, blends comfort with style. The relaxed frame geometry makes it feel like your flip-flops never left the ground, but the bike remains perfectly balanced with a low center of gravity thanks to a downtube-mounted battery pack and powerful mid-drive motor. The Zuma’s long-range 417Wh battery, 26-inch wheels, disc brakes, and lightweight aluminum alloy frame powers weekend surf adventures, as well as mid-week errands around town.

E3 Zuma

E3 Zuma

E3 Peak DS (MSRP $4,599)
With 130mm of RockShox full-suspension, 27.5-inch all-mountain wheels, and Enduro-inspired geometry, the new E3 Peak DS eMTB is built to conquer the toughest terrain – up and down. The super-responsive 6061 aluminum ally frame is built with proven trail engineering to inspire any rider, but it's the best-in-class Bosch Performance CX mid-motor with a 500Wh battery that really amps things up. Magura disc brakes, SRAM NX 1X 11-speed drivetrain, and short chainstays give the Peak DS excellent handling performance for an unforgettable ride on your favorite dirt.

E3 Peak DS

IZIP is also leading the charge in helping preserve our environment with its new, first in the cycling industry Call2Recycle battery-recycling program. Batteries contain hazardous materials, and if dumped or disposed of incorrectly the harmful elements can find their way into our water sources and adds to pollution. IZIP’s program disposes of old batteries in an environmentally responsible manner, and collection sites are located throughout the U.S. and Canada. After collecting and sorting, the batteries are processed and turned into new batteries, stainless steel products, and other products. For more, please check: call2recycle.org.

About IZIP
No matter how you ride, IZIP has a fun, fast, and efficient ebike for you. From commuters, cruisers, and cargo bikes to full-suspension, trail, and touring models, IZIP covers every riding option for leisure, trails, and pavement. With more than 10 years of experience in the ebike industry, IZIP is now a veteran and a leader in ebike technology in the U.S. A division of Accell North America, IZIP is supported by a network of authorized dealers and backed by the Electric Bike Competence Center of North America. For more about IZIP, please check: izipelectric.com.

MEDIA CONTACT: Keith Cozzens, Verde Brand Communications, keith@verdepr.com, 970-259-3555 x122

2 months ago

SIMI VALLEY, Calif. (Interbike 2017) – Raleigh Electric, maker of industry-leading electric bikes, designs ebikes around one simple idea: make them really, really fun. That core value continues in its newly unveiled 2018 bikes that will debut at the Interbike trade show next week in Las Vegas.

So much of our lives are focused on getting from point A to B, why shouldn’t we enjoy the ride while we get there? Raleigh Electric’s bikes bring the harmony of design, tech, performance, and comfort together, and are purpose-built with premium materials for every type of riding. All of Raleigh Electric’s ebikes are designed with “integrated Electronic” (iE) drive system technologies and are designed to be electrified. For 2018, the brand introduces seven new ready-to-ride models that will get your heart pumping and spike your fun level on pavement and dirt.

Lore iE (MSRP: $4,199)
If you want a fast-moving steed that meshes performance and style with average speeds of 25 MPH without breaking a sweat, look no further than the Lore iE. Combining 27.5-inch wheels with plus size tires for confidence and speed, a Bosch CX Speed motor for up to 28 MPH of pedal-assist power, Shimano drivetrain, and a 120mm RockShox Judy fork for supple suspension, the Lore tackles on-and-off road terrain with ease, and is truly an ebike for the ages.

Lore iE

Lore iE

Tamland iE (MSRP: $4,399)
Watch out, because the new drop-bar Tamland iE is going to raise some eyebrows – while also raising your game on the road and trail. This ebike was born from a desire to explore. With an integrated 500W Brose motor housed neatly in the downtube, the sleek ebike handles smooth roads with speed and singletrack with confidence. With 27.5-inch tires, pedal-assist speed up to 28 MPH, and an adventure-inspired SRAM drivetrain, if you can imagine a place to ride your bike, the Tamland will take you there.

Tamland iE

Kodiak Pro iE (MSRP: $TBD) & Kodiak iE (MSRP: $4,599)
The Kodiak Pro iE is hands down the perfect eMTB to calm the most rugged of terrain. Built with a Bosch Performance CX motor that brings pedal-assist speeds up to 28 MPH, and utilizing some of the best components from the most proven manufacturers, the Kodiak Pro is truly a sum of its parts. Featuring a lightweight 6061 Aluminum frame, 27.5-inch plus-sized wheels, 130mm of full-suspension travel, and the industry’s only ebike-specific groupset – SRAM’s eMTB super robust EX1 8-speed drivetrain with an 11-48 rear cassette – the Kodiak Pro oozes with the confidence of a muscle car while providing the gear range of a tractor. Its sibling – the Kodiak – delivers all the same performance and riding fun, with the major difference being components and a lower entry price point.

Kodiak Pro iE

Kodiak iE

Tokul Pro iE (MSRP: $TBD) & Tokul iE (MSRP: $3,499)
Lightweight carbon frame. Bosch Performance CX 500Wh motor integrated into the downtube. Ebike-specific SRAM EX1 drivetrain. These – among other attributes – are what make the new high-performance Tokul Pro eMTB one of the lightest, fastest, most tech-savvy bikes on the market. Equipped with 27.5-inch tires, an Enduro-inspired geometry, 120mm of RockShox full-suspension, and 8-speed drivetrain, the Tokul Pro is as nimble as eMTB’s come, and provides efficient uphill momentum on singletrack with quick maneuverability and handling on the down. Swap out component packages and the carbon frame for aluminum alloy, and the Tokul iE is one fun eMTB that comes in at an excellent value.

Tokul Pro iE

Tokul iE

Tokul iE

Magnus iE (MSRP: $3,499)
Rounding out Raleigh Electric’s 2018 trail-inspired ebike line, the Magnus iE fat bike easily crushing miles on sand, snow, or dirt. Touting a Bosch Performance CX motor, 26-inch wheels with 4-inch fat tires, lightweight aluminum frame, and disc brakes, the Magnus powers through just about any condition in its way. Whether you’re loaded up for packing into a hunting blind or rolling through town for a beer and a burger, the Magnus always goes big while bringing with it performance and comfort.

Magnus iE

Raleigh Electric is also leading the charge in helping preserve our environment with its new, first in the cycling industry Call2Recycle battery-recycling program. Batteries contain hazardous materials, and if dumped or disposed of incorrectly the harmful elements can find their way into our water sources and adds to pollution. The program disposes of old batteries in an environmentally responsible manner, and collection sites are located throughout the U.S. and Canada. After collecting and sorting, the batteries are processed and turned into new batteries, stainless steel products, and other products. For more, please check:call2recycle.org.

About Raleigh Electric
Our electric bicycles are designed around one simple idea: make them really, really fun. This is an idea that inspired our very first bicycles back in 1887 and continues to inspire how we do things today. After all, fun makes people happy. And, that’s something we proudly stand behind. Raleigh Electric is included in a family of brands that is part of the world’s largest electric bike supplier, Accell Group, so you can count on quality, reliability, and value. And, it’s easy to find a bike dealer whenever you need service or have questions about your electric bike. For more, check: raleighelectric.com.

MEDIA CONTACT: Keith Cozzens, Verde Brand Communications, keith@verdepr.com, 970-259-3555 x122

2 months ago


I've been lurking through these forums for the last couple days and have only gotten more indecisive on what I'd like in a bike. I have gone from looking at cheap mountain bikes on amazon to watching countless youtube reviews ..... and have come to the realization that there are so many darn options. From what I've heard, I'd like to go forward with an electric fat bike (I think...).

Just to clarify WHY I want to buy an e-bike:
1. Get out more and see the sights (especially in and around Seattle). This means initially starting out on flats and pavement to eventually hitting up small trails and going from there. So I will be dealing with wet conditions, lots of hills, and eventually do more rugged riding (when I'm more fit)
2. Exercise and weight loss
3. Getting around without driving my car and then having to find parking for small trips to the store etc.
4. I'd like to be able to get to locations and places (or it's driving to said location and trying to hike really slowly) where I can also indulge in my hobby of photography.

My budget: ~$1500-2500 (with a few hundred more to spend on accessories like lights, helmet, seat, bike lock, etc.)

First question: Front suspension vs full suspension. How do these two differences change the ride quality on a fat bike and are the differences significant enough to splurge on FULL suspension? Or can I get away with getting good front suspension and probably overall spend less money for a bike? I believe there are far more bikes being offered at around $1500 with just front suspension.

Secondly, Engine and Watts. I've gone through quite a few articles mentioning mid-drive vs hub electric engines. The watt issue sounds misleading and I'm having a hard time trying to figure out which one will better suit my needs. The options I've seen so far are 350W bafang middrive vs 750W rear hub drive. I'm inclined to go mid-drive for the ?better hill assist in PAS and forego having the option of a throttle button (these are the ones that are usually paired with FULL suspension). Is that the right way to go? Again I'm looking to lose weight so I expect to be pedaling and not just cruising along (although it does sound appealing after a hard workout . When you're beat, you can just punch a button and let it take you home).

The Companies/Bikes that I've narrowed down to are:
Voltbike Yukon 750
Voltbike Enduro (not a fatbike, but sounds like a great deal)
M2S All Terrain Kush 350W vs 750W
M2S All Terrain R750
M2S All Terrain MD
Teo Fatbike 750
Teo Fatbike 350 Full Suspension
Moar Bike (sounds and looks cool, but uncertain delivery estimate)

Are there others I need to look into that I haven't mentioned? I think if my 2 questions about suspension and the engine type are answered, I can probably narrow it down way further to maybe about 2 bikes.

Thanks for all your help in advance.

Mark Peralta
3 months ago

My budget is pretty high, since I use my bike more than my car. I'd love something that will last a long time. I bought a Sonders ebike for Burning Man and fell in love. It was only $700 and was the most fun I've ever had on a bicycle. So I'm ready to buy one for daily use now. Of course I'd like to spend as little as necessary but would like something nice.

Me: 220 lbs, 6'1", commute about 5 miles round trip daily. I will likely pedal most of the time unless I'm late for a meeting. On weekends is when I'd like to turn on the power, will be riding through the hills on 20 mile rides. Pedal assist would be ideal but would like full power possibly for the ride home.

Any recommendations?
I think you can get 2 ebikes. One hub driven speed pedelec commuter with fenders, and one mid drive full suspension for bombing trails, for a full spectrum of ebike experience. If you can get both with the the same battery the better since you automatically have a spare battery whichever one you use. Like the Volt bike enduro.

and Crosscurrent S

Just make sure that the batteries are interchangeable.

3 months ago

Delfast Replied! :D

I had emailed Delfast asking if they could provide additional information. Below is their reply.

From Delfast (where I could, I've included links):

Frame: Ukraine

Fork Zoom: 680DH Black: http://bike.us.hlcorp.com/product/item-255.html

Suspension: Rear Shock Dnm mm220LAR: http://www.dnmshock.com/products-single.php?id=26

Batteries: 48B 64Ah 13S12P Boston Swing (USA) + Bluetooth Smart BMS: http://www.boston-power.com/

Charger: Charger LIPO 54, or 64V + 12A + Waterproof Gold Connector

Controller: 48V/32A with recupersation and 4 Modes PAS/25kph 250W/32kph/unlimited

Shifter: Shimano 7speed black + RD Shimano Turney 7sp

Motor: GTS1000 6T 205/30

Rims: Sun Rims MTX 39”, 24” 36H Black: https://sun-ringle.com/mtb/rims/mtx-39/

Tires: Urban 24x3

Light: Front: Enduro HGM LED 20W + USB, Rear: Enduro Tail Combo

Signaling: Bluetooth, Keychain, Start/Stop Button, Remote launch, Alarm, Motor Blocking

Thank you Daniel!:)

George S.
3 months ago

Mike (Mikey) at Blue Monkey is going to interview Yamaha, post something on their YT channel.

Court reviewed the Voltbike Enduro with the Bafang Max. That bike has a torque sensor and is a nice basic mid-drive. They are at $1800. Voltbike is an impressive company, coming out of nowhere. Bafang has a legal limit torque sensor mid-drive in the works, the Max Ultra. The Max are frame integrated, not bolt on. Bafang has a low cost model, the Modest, and they have some sort of battery factory in the works.

In other words, here's a company that owns the DIY mid-drive market, with a decent reputation. They are aiming for the low end, but production type bikes. I could see Yamaha going into that Civic market, but it may not be that easy. Bosch has talked about a cheaper drive system.

I have two Bikes Direct bikes and a Trek 820, all converted to ebikes with hub motors. Since I have 2-3 years on all the bikes, I'm not that concerned about the quality of the frames. The cheapest bike was $270, the most expensive $420. Each bike has at least 2,000 miles, trouble free miles. You can get a BBS02 mid-drive from Luna for $400, or a MAC or Golden hub, beefy hubs, for about that. You can go with a Bafang hub for a lot less.

With a direct model you could sell a decent frame, a very good motor, and some sort of 48v battery, real cells, around $1200. I expect bikes like the Voltbike to put an end to mainstream DIY. It just isn't really worth it. Does Yamaha really bring anything to the party, jammed between Bosch and Bafang? Shimano is a huge company, the biggest of the 'names', but they've done little with ebike motors.

I think Yamaha should make a light motorcycle, something with speeds and range for in city use, but registered and licensed.

It's an endlessly fascinating world and right now there is a lot going on, but most of it is not seen.

4 months ago

Some of the choices I'm looking at include the Magnum Peak, Bulls SIX50 1.5, Voltbike Enduro, and Juiced CrossCurrent S (but the wait may kill that one). Any opinions on these? Anything else I should consider?

4 months ago

Hi Chris,

My Enduro uses an ambient light sensor to determine whether or not it should have the headlight on. Is that the same for the Mariner? And if so is it possible that you've covered it somehow, tricking it into thinking its always dark? Just spitballing ideas.
Hi! Yeah I was thinking about maybe being a sensor, but the manual doesn't say anything about it, for what I have read on the manual you turn them on and off manually.

Hmm but I'll check thoroughly if there is a sensor, just in case, thanks for the advice!

4 months ago

Hi Chris,

My Enduro uses an ambient light sensor to determine whether or not it should have the headlight on. Is that the same for the Mariner? And if so is it possible that you've covered it somehow, tricking it into thinking its always dark? Just spitballing ideas.

4 months ago

I have a '16 E-Stream Enduro FS and absolutely love it. Since I often ride 4 miles on the pavement to and from the trails I didn't want the plus sized tires thinking they would a lot more "draggy". The 2.35" wide Hans Dampf tire work excellent on the terrain I encounter here in Arizona.

Tom W
5 months ago

I'd like to follow up on my earlier post about my bike's crank failure with a related issue: lack of proper ground clearance for enduro mountain biking.

As far as I am aware the Giant Full E+ bikes have the lowest motor-to-ground clearance in their segment. Compare the side view of the Giant Full E+ against virtually any of its enduro-level competitors and you will see that the Giant motor projects further downward, below the bottom bracket axle, than the others. I haven't completed measurements myself (most of the competitors aren't even sold here), but the difference is several inches compared to the best-in-class, as shown in the photos attached. Be aware when looking at photos that the Bosch drive uses a much smaller chainring, so while it may appear to stick down a similar amount below the edge of the chainring, the actual ground clearance is much better than the Giant.

Ground clearance means little if you are riding simple forest paths, but for any real black- or double-black trails like we have in my part of the world, it is critical. Having the motor hang up on an obstacle means potential motor damage and, much worse, the potential for getting bucked forward off the bike. At the very least it means that you'll have to be constantly aware of the low clearance available, and either adapt your riding or simply walk over obstacles that could otherwise be ridden.

As a note to anyone in the bike review industry: Please consider adding ground clearance at the motor casing as figure of merit used to rate off-road electric bikes. It should be measured both at rest and at full suspension compression to take travel into account, and should be measured at the lowest point that isn't hidden behind the stock chainring.

The reason that the Giant bikes have such low ground clearance is because they started with a compromised drive system. As I mentioned in the earlier post, the Yamaha motor was developed for the commuter and street bike market. The Yamaha's square taper bottom bracket axle, the cheap crankarms, and the low ground clearance don't matter at all for that market.

However, when you start with all those compromises and try to stretch the performance envelope all the way to enduro MTB, as Giant has done with the Full E+0, you end up with a highly compromised and, in my opinion, dangerous, bike.

@ Akhim: The fact that your crank bent, rather than the pedal threads ripping out, could mean a number of things. Highly dependent on the geometry of the impact and, of course, whether your crank was made from inferior material. The failure on my bike could be batch-specific at the manufacturer, who knows. But unfortunately if you replaced the crank in kind (as you almost have to do, there are very few other options), then your new crank could be from a defective batch. No way to tell, unfortunately.

Tom W

Edward Kean
5 months ago

Comparo caveat - 60yrs old, 190lb w/15yrs of un-assisted Colorado, Utah, and New Mexico trail and mtn riding- I ride hyper technical tight turny steep loose babyhead granite sandstone rooty sandy complicated random bushwacky w/ lots of stumps, logs, rocks, jumps, drops and occasionally "singletrack" and also a bit of paved and dirt roads. The more weird, surprising and challenging, the better.

Spec Turbo Levo FSR vs. Bulls E-Stream Evo FS3 27.5+

Both - creamy sweet quiet forgiving Brose, bitchen plush ride, sticky planted plus tires, balanced fork angle for both turning and decending.

Battery - Spec -460Wh, Bulls 650Wh - game over, don't need to read further (650W is a compromise (650 gets me to about 5 hrs of the above so I have another in my backack).


BB - Spec - low and modern (crunch/slam obstacles) Bulls - awesome clearance (ride)

Controls - Spec - on side of down tube (down tube? side?) or phone (phone?) Bulls - on the handlebar by the grip (steep section - engage meth squirrel mode)

Walk mode - Spec (walk mode?) Bulls (bike will crawl up three flights of condo stairs at 3am after the Bluegrass Festival)

USB outlet - Spec - na (and phone is dead) Bulls - plug in and call a chopper if I forgot to put it in airplane mode

Disclosure- I'm with Small Planet EBikes in Colorado and although not carrying Spec I did buy one at my LBS and loved it for the super cool looks, Brose motor, nifty software, enduro geometry & vibe, plush ride, and top notch dealers (an awesome bike for short groomy).

Tom W
5 months ago

The following is a summary of my experience owning, albeit briefly, a 2017 Giant electric bike. To cut to the end, it did not go well. I returned the bike to Giant after the events I describe below, but feel that I have an obligation to let other riders know what happened, as I believe there are serious safety and honesty/integrity issues involved.

Based on a successful test ride of the Giant Full E+1 electric mountain bike, I purchased a 2017 Giant Full E+0 in mid-June 2017. My only major reservation was the square taper crank interface, as these have not been used on real mountain bikes well over a decade. But given Giant’s size and reputation, our satisfaction with the three Giants we've owned over the past 15 years, and the fact that their website listed the crankset supplier as Praxis Works, I mistakenly believed that Giant had done their homework.

After a thorough check-over to eliminate the standard shop assembly issues (under-torqued bolts, no grease or washers on the pedals, chain with only storage lubricant on it, etc), I took it out for a first ride. Minutes after starting the first downhill trail, on an innocuous 60 cm drop over some rocks to a smooth, downhill-sloped landing (shown in the photo), my brand-new Spank Spike pedal ripped completely out of the drive-side crankarm.

I was very lucky that the pedal provided just enough support as it came out that I didn't lose control. As I skidded to a stop, my immediate thought was that the square taper interface must have failed, but only the pedal was on the ground. The failure had nothing to do with the pedal, it was the crankarm internal threads that had failed catastrophically.

The cause of the failure was simple: Giant made a choice years ago to partner with Yamaha for their motor technology. Yamaha only makes a square taper interface for their power unit (until the 2018 model year). Giant chose not to specify and procure a proper crankset for the intended service of the bike (i.e. enduro mountain biking). Instead they specified an FSA CK-745 crankset. I have no idea what testing Giant did at the time, but that crank is designed for a different market (commuter ebikes that are used to buy groceries and ride around in the city). And it is made very cheaply - full retail is $38 on FSA's website. The design of the crank is probably fine, but I believe that the material is not. I didn't have the resources to have it tested, of course, but I strongly believe that the aluminum used would not come close to the strength required by the 6061-T6 specification, which is the standard aluminum for an MTB crank of this type and application. The FSA webpage on the square taper CK-745 just says the material is 'alloy', which is meaningless and likely indicative of the very low quality aluminum used.

Beyond the quality of the part is Giant's misleading specification sheet. You'll remember that the crankset was supposed to be a Praxis Works according to Giant's website (quoting Giant Canada’s website when I bought the bike: “Crankset: Praxis Works Custom Forged, 38”, where 38 is the number of teeth on the chainring).

In reality Praxis Works had nothing to do with the crank at all. They had provided only the chainring. So Giant was using Praxis Works' name to mislead consumers, by suppressing the FSA part number to hide the low quality of the crank. When I confronted Giant Canada on this, they said it was a simply a mistake.

It is curious to think how often such 'mistakes' are made when the advantage goes to the consumer rather than the company.

To Giant Canada’s partial credit, they quickly changed the crankset description on their website to "Giant Custom Forged by FSA" after my initial complaint and warranty claim, with a separate note about the Praxis Works chainring.

However, this new wording is still clearly intended to deceive the public, as there is no doubt that the actual crank installed on the bike is an FSA CK-745. The only 'custom' thing Giant did was to take FSA's logo off the visible side. When I confronted the Canadian brand manager with this, he said he was completely comfortable with the ‘custom’ wording and would not change it. Two weeks after leaving numerous voice messages and sending them an email with a version of this posting attached, Giant USA has not had the courtesy to even reply to me.

Some of Giant’s international websites have an additional line in the crankset description saying that the cranks are 'minimal Q-factor'. While the deception attempted here is less important, the claim is ridiculous. A properly designed crank for the Yamaha drive system could easily reduce the Q-factor (the perpendicular distance between pedals) by 20-25 mm compared to the supplied FSA cranks.

So here are my conclusions: If you own or are considering buying a Giant ebike from any model year, you are in danger of crank arm failure at the pedal interface. In this mass-produced world, the chance that my bike had the only defective crank arm is essentially zero. Giant's specification of such a low-end crank on an otherwise high-end (US retail $7700) bike is, in my opinion, unforgivable. And may be worthy of a lawsuit in the unfortunate but almost-inevitable event that someone does lose control and is seriously injured when their properly-installed pedal rips out of their crankarm. I was very lucky to walk away uninjured, and under no circumstances would I recommend that anyone trust such a low-end crank for real off road riding.

Furthermore, as far as I am aware owners of Giant ebikes have no other viable crank options at this time. Nobody in the world makes mid- or high-quality square taper cranks for the Yamaha drive.

Giant is the world’s largest bike manufacturer and they could easily have had a proper set of cranks manufactured for this line of bikes. They should have been made of at least 6061, and preferably 7000 series, aluminum, with proper Q-factor for the Yamaha motor. But they chose not to bother.

Giant should now be taking a whole series of actions, including a thorough investigation of the pedal interface strength of this crank and others like it, warnings to consumers, and, if testing shows similar defects in other cranks, then a recall should be initiated.

And no more deceptive specification sheets. Every one of Giant’s global websites should list FSA CK-745 as the crank on this bike, and similarly for the specifications of all their other bikes. If a manufacturer customizes something they have to say what they’ve done, not hide low quality parts behind a ‘custom’ façade after changing only the graphics.

This issue is not isolated to just Giant bikes either – there are many other ebike companies using low quality drivetrain parts. And it is probably not isolated to just 2017 and earlier model Giants. Some of Giant’s 2018 ebikes will have an ISIS drive interface, but the quality of the cranks they use will probably be the same (the advanced sales literature still refers to them as ‘custom forged’). So they will probably be just as likely to fail at the pedal interface as earlier models.

The following are more detailed technical notes, and are included only for those with an interest in the minutiae of the failure. I’ve included them on the basis that unusual claims require a higher level of proof:

• First, keep in mind that all the photos were taken after the trail-side incident was over. At the time the pedal came off I was stranded on the trail, and the crank was clearly destroyed. As darkness was falling, I tried to screw the pedal back into the deformed threads so I could limp home. However, the first few threads just ripped out completely. So the photos show the outer section of the pedal thread in the crankarm torn out, but this did not happen at the same time as the crankarm failure.

• The Full E+0 has 140 mm travel with a Rockshox Super Deluxe shock, which was pressurized to 190 psi. It did not bottom out on the small drop, and neither did the Lyrik fork. I did land the drop with my weight biased to the right side (probably 80%) when the crankarm failed, but there is nothing unusual in that. The drop is tiny by enduro mountain bike standards.

• The cranks did not suffer any rock strikes prior to the failure. The pedals and cranks are unblemished except for a dent in the pedal bearing housing that must have happened as the pedal flew off the bike. It could not have happened during the failure (if it struck a rock as I landed, for example), as the dent has a distinct direction - about 25 degrees sideways - which is completely inconsistent with a rock strike while moving forward at ~15 km/h. And beyond that, there is no matching mark on the crankarm.

• Many of you are probably thinking that the most likely cause of such a failure is a pedal that has become partially unscrewed. However, I installed them myself to 35 ft*lb (with grease), and pedals are threaded so that precession acts to tighten them, so the probability that they were partially unscrewed is already extremely small. But evidence inside the crank arm proves the failure occurred when the pedal was fully threaded into the crank. With the Spank pedal and pedal washer in place there are two unengaged threads inside the crankarm.

The photos attached show that the damage starts at the third thread (subtle damage, paint is missing), which is the first internal thread that engages with the pedal. And there is progressively more damage on each successive thread, moving from the inner side of the crankarm to the midpoint. The fourth thread is clearly deformed. From the midpoint on the threads are stripped away completely as I described earlier.

The pattern and orientation of the damage to the crankarm threads is consistent with the back of the pedal thread levering itself up into the top of the crank threads as it came out, with the crank at the 4:30 position (looking at the drive side of the bike). This is consistent with my right foot being forward as I rode over the drop. At the time of failure, vertically upward corresponded to the direction from the pedal centerline toward the ‘4’ in the ‘CK-745’ logo printed on the crank.

In contrast, the other side of the crankarm thread (which was facing down as the pedal ripped out from the opposite side of the crank) appears to be undamaged.

• For completeness, the OD of the pedal thread on the Spank pedal exactly matches the stock Giant pedals (14.0 mm on my cheap micrometer, nominal is 14.022 mm). So there was nothing wrong with the pedal. The pedal threads do not appear to be damaged but the dent in the bearing housing has effectively destroyed the pedals. And no, Giant did not offer to replace them. Spank, however, has offered a crash replacement at reduced cost.

For the record I have no financial interest in, nor any social ties to, any other bike company.

Please spread the word on this issue so that it creates real change. And if you work for Giant or another company that uses cheap drivetrain components on mountain ebikes: do something about this before someone is seriously injured.


Tom W

Burnaby BC

Ian Mangham
7 days ago

Nice pump

De Cnijf Kris
4 weeks ago

looks good.Selles royal makes the best seats even leather for sportsbikes.worth its price.

Aaron Allevato
1 month ago

11:23 what's the name of the that cheaper full suspension bike?

Kemo Bow
1 month ago

Please do the same ride on your Levo. would be a great comparison.

2 months ago

Do mid-drive motors also have a throttle, and if so, can you drive throttle only?

2 months ago

Most of the mainstream mid-drive motors (like Bosch, Yamaha, Shimano, and Brose) do not, but you can get the Bafang BBS02 kit or some bikes with the Bafang Max Drive that do have throttle. Here's an example with a custom integrated BBS02 https://electricbikereview.com/evelo/delta/ just note that they some people have reported premature wear and motor failure (as well as drivetrain strain) so you'd want to be careful in how you rode

Gregory Alston
2 months ago

About how much does the bike weigh?

Lazaro Monteagudo
3 months ago

Good bike 90 percent I will buy it next spring or early. . I live in a cold weather.

3 months ago

this channel rocks! fanx v moooooch

Aayush Parmar
4 months ago

Lol I can ride a cycle this much at once

5 months ago

What Happens when your battery goes out when you are riding with a mid drive motor?Do you have resistance like a direct drive motor or no resistance like a geared motor so you can ride home like a regular bike?

5 months ago

Only 350 Watts? What is the point? Grandma can ride it to church, that's about it. Forget about going up rough hills.

Don Mega
6 months ago

short riders could always saw the seatpost for an easy fix. they didn't think this through.

Stu Wright
6 months ago

good job showing the info while riding! seeing those fat bike vids makes me want one :-p

6 months ago

I was going to buy this one but decided to get the Voltbike Yukon Limited as my first Ebike.
Looking forward to the peddle assist since I do have some knee problems that rears their ugly head on hills.
My decision to get the Yukon had a lot to do with your reviews and a few others I saw so thanks.

Arnold Winters
6 months ago

Hey Court, your review of the Voltbike Enduro was great and encouraged me to buy one. Thanks. I am in the process of editing a video I made of the unboxing and setup. If you are ever in the Atlanta area, I would like to do a video with you on the Silver Comet Trail.

I received this Voltbike last Thursday and I love it, but unfortunately they did not include the ergonomic grips.

They included straight cylindrical grips. To their credit I wrote to George at Voltbike Support and he is sending me the ergonomic grips. I wonder how to install them myself. I imagine they will include instructions for removing the other ones and installing the ergo's.

I changed out the seat post to 200mm and it is fine.

Also I tried to sag the rear suspension and with the Izende hand pump filled it to 130 psi however, I don't feel it compress when I sit on the bike. Am I doing something wrong? Perhaps I need to ride over a curb, or release some air,

I like the motorcycle helmet which was included. I chose white for safety.

Arnold Winters
7 months ago

Court, what GoPro helmet holder do you use? I see it was chin high. Also how do you get the overlay on the video of the elevation, temperature, speed, etc.?

Tru jew
7 months ago

Excellent review and video.....enjoyed it allot.

ed mcmahon
7 months ago

"i'm here in my mothers garage"... i almost died laughing.

7 months ago

Call me weird but, I'd thoroughly enjoy that climb on a non ebike hard tail. That might change if ever I do one of my local climbs on an ebike. Nice video as always. Was that some occasional horse crap along the trail?

tom e gun
7 months ago

what do you think of the m2s bikes