VoltBike Enduro Review

Voltbike Enduro Electric Bike Review
Voltbike Enduro
Voltbike Enduro Bafang Max Drive Mid Motor 350 Watts
Voltbike Enduro Sanyo Battery Pack 48 Volt 10 4
Voltbike Enduro Selle Royal Ergonomic Grips Bell Shifters
Voltbike Enduro Bafang Hmi Dpc10 Display Panel
Voltbike Enduro Sr Suntour Xct Coil Spring Suspension
Voltbike Enduro Selle Royal Freccia Saddle
Voltbike Enduro Adjustable Length Kickstand
Voltbike Enduro Exa Form Air Suspension Rear Swing Arm
Voltbike Enduro 8 Speed Shimano Acera Drivetrain
Voltbike Enduro Voltbike Enduro Vs Specialized Stumpjumper
Voltbike Enduro Shipping Bubble Wrap
Voltbike Enduro Styrofoam Box Great Packing
Voltbike Enduro 2 Amp 1 Lb Charger
Voltbike Enduro Electric Bike Review
Voltbike Enduro
Voltbike Enduro Bafang Max Drive Mid Motor 350 Watts
Voltbike Enduro Sanyo Battery Pack 48 Volt 10 4
Voltbike Enduro Selle Royal Ergonomic Grips Bell Shifters
Voltbike Enduro Bafang Hmi Dpc10 Display Panel
Voltbike Enduro Sr Suntour Xct Coil Spring Suspension
Voltbike Enduro Selle Royal Freccia Saddle
Voltbike Enduro Adjustable Length Kickstand
Voltbike Enduro Exa Form Air Suspension Rear Swing Arm
Voltbike Enduro 8 Speed Shimano Acera Drivetrain
Voltbike Enduro Voltbike Enduro Vs Specialized Stumpjumper
Voltbike Enduro Shipping Bubble Wrap
Voltbike Enduro Styrofoam Box Great Packing
Voltbike Enduro 2 Amp 1 Lb Charger


  • An affordable full suspension trail bike with quiet, but powerful, mid-drive motor and integrated downtube battery pack, full-sized USB charging port on battery, adjustable top speed
  • Integrated LED headlight, backlit LCD display panel, and standard reflectors for urban riding, high-pressure tires with low-profile knobs work well on pavement or packed Earth
  • Well-placed kickstand, quick release wheels offer easy transport and serviceability, excellent weight distribution, reasonable 55.7 lb curb weight, affordable shipping with one year warranty
  • Only available in one frame size and color scheme, the seat post is too short, the stem is a bit long, 160 mm mechanical disc brakes are good enough for light light trails but not fully mountain worthy in my opinion

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Video Review

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$1,799 ($70 Flat Rate Shipping)

Body Position:


Suggested Use:

Urban, Trail

Electric Bike Class:

Pedal Assist (Class 1), Speed Pedalec (Class 3)
Learn more about Ebike classes


1 Year Comprehensive


United States, Canada

Model Year:


Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

55.7 lbs (25.26 kg)

Battery Weight:

7 lbs (3.17 kg)

Motor Weight:

8.6 lbs (3.9 kg)

Frame Material:


Frame Sizes:

19 in (48.26 cm)

Geometry Measurements:

19" Seat Tube, 23.5" Reach, 29" Stand Over Height, 74" Length

Frame Types:


Frame Colors:

Matte Black with Yellow Accents

Frame Fork Details:

SR Suntour XCT Coil Spring Suspension, 100 mm Travel, Lockout and Preload Adjust, 100/9 mm Quick Release Skewer

Frame Rear Details:

EXA Form Air Suspension, 135/9 mm Quick Release Skewer

Gearing Details:

8 Speed 1x8 Shimano Acera, CS-HG31-8 Cassette, 11-32T

Shifter Details:

Shiman Triggers on Right


8Fun AC08-2 Alloy Crank Arms, 170 mm Length, 38T Chainring with Alloy Bash Guard


Wellgo M248DU Alloy Cage Style Platform


1-1/8" Sealed Cartridge


Promax Alloy, 90 mm Length, ~8° Rise


Promax Alloy, Low-Rise, 27.5" Length

Brake Details:

Tektro Novela CS Mechanical Disc with 160 mm Rotors, 5 Star Levers with Motor Inhibitors and Rubberized Edge


Selle Royal XH-G03, Ergonomic Rubber


Selle Royal Freccia

Seat Post:

Promax, Aluminum Alloy

Seat Post Length:

200 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

30.4 mm


Samson Double Walled, 6061 T6 Alloy, 36 Hole


13 Gauge, Stainless Steel, Silver with Nipples

Tire Brand:

Kenda Small Block Eight, 27.5" x 2.1" (52-584) (650x52B)

Wheel Sizes:

27.5 in (69.85cm)

Tire Details:

30TPI Casing, Wire Bead, 40 to 65 PSI

Tube Details:

Schrader Valve


Integrated Spanninga Micro LED Headlight with Reflector, Flick Bell, Adjustable Length Kickstand, Free DOT Approved Helmet


Locking Removable Battery Pack with LED Charge Indicator, 5 Volt Full Sized USB Charging Port on Right Side of Battery, 1.1 lb 2 Amp Charger, KMC Rust Resistant Z Chain, Motor and Display Rated IP65 Against Water and Dust Ingress

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:

Bafang, Max Drive

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Geared Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

350 watts

Motor Torque:

80 Newton meters

Battery Brand:

Sanyo UR18650ZY

Battery Voltage:

48 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

10.4 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

499.2 wh

Battery Chemistry:


Charge Time:

4 hours

Estimated Min Range:

25 miles (40 km)

Estimated Max Range:

60 miles (97 km)

Display Type:

Bafang HMI DPC10, Backlit LCD, Fixed, Grayscale


Battery Level (10 Bars), Speed, Trip Distance, Odometer, Max Speed, Avg. Speed, Assist Level (0-5)

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pad (+, -, Lights, Power, i), Double Press i for Settings Menu (Trip Clearance, Units, Backlight Sensor, Backlight Brightness, Screen Auto Off Time, Maintenance Reminder, Password 0512, Wheel Diameter, Speed Limit)

Drive Mode:

Advanced Pedal Assist (Measures Pedal Torque, Cadence and Wheel Speed)

Top Speed:

20 mph (32 kph)

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Written Review

VoltBike is an online-only electric bike company based out of Burnaby Canada. They recently expanded to a shipping depot in Northern Washington to serve both markets more effectively, and to me, that’s a sign that the business is going well. I’ve reviewed a handful of their products over the years and the speed and quality of shipping have always impressed me. Not just because the bikes arrived in Texas, Colorado, and even Cabo San Lucas Mexico unscathed… but because they only charge a flat rate $70 for the US and $50 for Canada. Sometimes, it can feel like you’re getting a sweet deal on a product based on the sticker price and then you get hit with a bunch of additional fees during checkout… that’s not the case here. The Enduro expands on VoltBike’s off-road line of models which includes a fat tire ebike, a folding fat tire model, and a hardtail trail bike. It’s their first e-bike with full suspension and a mid-drive motor. This is a great combination because suspended wheels can move quicker and respond more effectively to bumpy terrain if they weigh less. They call this “unsprung weight” and it’s an important factor in the design of race cars. While the Enduro is more of a sporty looking product than a premium precision-build, it performed quite well during my off-road mountain test. I climbed, descended quickly over large rocks, hopped the bike off a few bumps, and did an on-road speed test. It’s only available in one frame size with matte-black paint for now, but the black motor, battery, and wires blend in nicely. For me, as a 5’9″ tall guy, the stem was a bit long and the seat post was too short. I adjusted the brake lever position on both sides, raised the seat post to its maximum recommended height, and slid the saddle forward to shorten reach before going out. Compared to many other order-by-mail electric bicycles, this one was easy to setup. The wheels are both attached and only the handlebar needs to be added using four bolts. VoltBike sends a small tool pouch but I only used two of the five Allen key hex wrenches, and one began to strip before everything was done. I switched to my higher-quality tools and used a bit of grease and chain lube to finish the job. The only thing you absolutely need to get this bike going is a Schrader compatible bicycle pump. It ships with lower-end Kenda Small Block Eight tires rated for 40 to 65 PSI, which is higher than most of the mountain tires I see. Higher pressure will reduce drag while sacrificing traction and smoothness. I filled them to 40 PSI because I’m not especially heavy at ~135 lbs and wanted the best traction possible for the mountain trail test. Other areas that seem a little less mountain oriented include the integrated headlight, kickstand, and ergonomic grips. I appreciate each of these features… they chose the parts well, but I think they’re most useful in an urban setting. Given the lack of bottle cage bosses, rear rack attachment, and even fender mounts, this is a bike that feels great riding around town but lacks utility. I’m trying to show the trade-offs you get with this product but honestly, it would be my first choice in the VoltBike lineup right now because I value comfort over utility, don’t mind wearing a small backpack to carry gear to work, and appreciate the efficiency and durability of the Bafang Max Drive motor vs. a hub motor.

Driving the bike is a 350 watt nominally rated mid-drive with peak torque output of 80 Newton-meters. The numbers put it in the same performance range as Bosch, Brose, Yamaha and Impulse which cost much more. It’s fairly compact, but not as good looking as the new Bosch tilted designs, and it’s one of the quietest offerings around. The areas it doesn’t stand out so much are zippiness and RPM output. Basically, you need to switch gears more actively while pedaling to accelerate quickly and ultimately reach higher top speeds. In these ways, it reminds me of the base level Yamaha mid-drive. For the price, it’s a big jump up from geared hub motors (used on all of the other VoltBikes at the time of this review) and it got me up 12% grades on a rocky dirt trail in Colorado without any issues. Of course, my speed hovered around 8 mph during these stretches… but that’s because I remained seated and focused on balance and handling vs. speed. Interestingly, the Volt Bike Enduro arrived with a maximum speed setting of 25 km/h which is roughly 15.5 mph. This is below the legal limit in the United States and Canada so I unlocked the display panel by pressing the i button twice quickly then used the password 0, 5, 1, 2 to raise the limit to 32 km/h. This made it a Class 1 trail-legal electric bike… but later on, I raised it further to 60 km/h (which it doesn’t actually hit) to get an effective speed of ~28 mph. Basically, this can be a Class 1 or Class 3 speed pedelec which makes it a contender for urban commuting if you ride on street bike lanes.

In order to climb with a 55.7 lb ebike like this, go fast, and go far, you need a good sized battery pack. The Enduro comes with a 48 volt 10.4 amp hour battery that uses Sanyo lithium-ion cells. Apparently, Panasonic purchased Sanyo in recent years and VoltBike stresses this in their marketing collateral. Panasonic is known as the top-level battery producer in the ebike space and commands a premium. I can’t say much about longevity because I only tested the bike for a few days… but Lithium-ion cells tend to hold up well over time and VoltBike offers a comprehensive one year warranty. For the price of the bike, this battery pack seems like a great deal and I love that they mounted it tighter than the older Yukon models which seemed to rattle a bit. The pack can be charged on or off the bike for convenience, I tend to remove the pack for safe storage in a cool dry location vs. leaving it on the bike at all times and it’s easy to lift because it has a little flip-out handle on the side. Plugging the pack in is easy, it uses the same port whether it’s on or off the frame and the charger is compact and very lightweight at just 1.1 lbs. My only complaint here is that the rubber cover that protects the female plug on the left side of the battery can be difficult to push in. For this reason, I regularly see people riding with the rubber cover left dangling off and this could lead to dust and water damage over time. On the opposite side, the top right corner of the pack, there’s a second rubber cover protecting a standard sized 5 Volt 2 Amp USB port. You could use this to charge a phone, music player, or additional lights but do be careful when pedaling… consider a right-angle adapter to reduce exposure to kicks and snags. Final thoughts on the battery after riding down the mountain at higher speed is that it still wobbles a bit (though the chain bounces a whole lot… so good thing it has a thick slap guard), the weight is positioned well and it wasn’t as flashy as some other packs that aren’t so integrated.

The display panel used to gauge performance and change electric assist handling is from Bafang and I believe it’s the DPC10 or some variation. I found a great resource for Bafang / 8Fun displays here and learned how to adjust settings and clear the trip meter. I like that the display feels solidly mounted but still swivels to reduce glare. It comes with one of the larger button pads with a key for lights and information as well as power, plus and minus. Compared to the Bosch button pad, this one isn’t as physically intuitive and might require a glance down. On two occasions, I pressed the information key and had it stick down because it sort of angled sideways. While it is easy to reach, fairly compact, and appears to be water resistant, it just feels a little bit cheaper and the wire running back to the display seemed short. It kept bumping into the bell and muting it. When it arrived, this cable was actually zip tied to the left brake lever motor inhibitor which allowed the bell to work perfectly, but as I adjusted the brake levers it became too tight. I’d rather have a comfortable hand position than a functional bell but maybe future versions will ship with a slightly longer cable and this won’t be an issue? One other cable seemed too short and that was a pretty important one… the shifter cable leading back to the eight-speed Shimano Acera derailleur. When I shifted to the lowest gear (the largest sprocket) the cable seemed very tight. I didn’t have a problem, but this is another area to be careful with and possibly adjust if there’s extra length up front. VoltBike has been very proactive and responsive based on my past reviews and while I believe all of their bikes are produced overseas, they seem to be doing well enough to make incremental improvements and provide feedback that isn’t just ignored by the factory. The truth is, you’re getting a lot of value here for $1,800 and a little bit of attention during assembly can go a long way. I highly recommend having a shop give it a full tuneup for ~$80 if you can. This will make it ride better and last longer because the wheels will be trued, the derailleur will shift properly and they may add grease to the pedals as I did, to reduce creaking.

I got a little off track there talking about assembly and maintenance so let’s jump back into the display. This thing has a light sensor, adjustable backlighting, a 10-bar battery infographic for precise feedback on range (though no range estimation feature). You can change the units from kilometers to miles by doing the double tap i-i trick mentioned earlier and this works without the password. I’m not sure if VoltBike intended this but the handlebar is a low-rise with enough bend to help protect the display in the event of a crash. And while it’s not removable, you can park the bike with your helmet covering the display as a way to decrease attention, reduce sun exposure, and protect from water without causing condensation. This ebike, as with most, should be highly water resistant… but don’t submerge it. Perhaps the biggest difference between the Enduro and other VoltBike models is the lack of a throttle. You have to pedal in order to get the motor going but it uses a combination cadence-torque sensor which is very responsive and fluid. You will definitely get increased range from a system like this and it’s permissible on more trails than throttle-operated products. I think instant-power can be harmful to some mid-drive systems and really stress the chain, sprockets, and derailleur if used improperly. This motor controller does not have a shift sensor and thus, you can grind the gears and cause mashing to occur if you shift hard. I tend to ease off when pedaling for a moment and then shift. When climbing, this means that I build up some speed and momentum before shifting and try to plan ahead. Worst case, it’s better to stop and push the bike than wreck the drivetrain. And by wreck, I mean break the chain or bend the teeth on the cassette sprockets. You get a lower-end eight-speed Shimano Acera with the Enduro that probably doesn’t belong on a true mountain bike. I found that the range was large enough to climb and top 20 mph comfortably but it’s just not as tight or durable as the Deore, SLX, and Deore XT Shadow Plus that I see on higher-end products. The chainring has a nice bash guard/guide metal plate that should reduce snags, impacts and chain drops. Some ebikes have a true guide with two metal plates but I didn’t experience a chain drop while riding so perhaps this is good enough.

I had a blast assembling, testing, and optimizing the VoltBike Enduro electric bike. It’s a product I wish had existed when I purchased my first ebike many years ago. Instead, I ended up with the Evelo Aries, a cool looking full suspension product that’s exciting on paper and in photos but actually has a flexy frame, very limited motor operation, a stiff non-adjustable rear suspension, and difficult battery position. It produced a lot of noise and weighed ten pounds more than the Enduro and the purchase felt like a total waste. I felt terrible at the time but appreciated how responsive and supportive the company was. That bike is a big part of why I created this website. Not everyone can afford or wants a high-end electric bicycle… but there are many trade-offs to consider at the mid and lower levels. While the VoltBike Endure may not be a perfect fit for trails or the city, it looks cool, improves comfort over hardtail models, performs quite well and blends in. Note that you may need a special pump to adjust the rear air suspension properly and that it doesn’t have markings to help you adjust it by weight… but I pumped it up to ~140 PSI and saw it perform adequately on the trail. Big thanks to VoltBike for partnering with me on this post. I did receive a service fee for the processing and editing work performed (as I do with many reviews these days) but did not get a free bike or receive a larger sum than I do from other brands. I made a longer video because I was truly interested in seeing how the bike would perform and perhaps because I wanted to help my former self. The guy who was commuting to work by bike in Austin, Texas and just wanted something a little more fun than a city style ebike :)


  • The price is pretty incredible… despite some lower end components like the eight-speed Acera drivetrain (two steps up from the base Tourney) and mechanical 160 mm disc brakes vs.
    hydraulic, it handled the trail
  • Even though most electric mountain bikes don’t have integrated lights, I appreciate that this one does because I’d probably use it for a mix of urban and trail riding, the light is compact and didn’t rattle on the trail, it also shines from the sides a bit to increase your profile
  • Stiff solid frame with good weight distribution, the mid-drive motor and downtube integrated battery pack are positioned very well
  • Removable battery shaves 7 lbs off the weight of the bike, both wheels offer quick release for easy maintenance or compact transport and storage
  • The display is large, easy to read, swivels to reduce glare, and offers a lot of adjustment options like backlight brightness, auto off, and wheel size
  • This is one of the few electric bikes that allows you to adjust the top speed, mine arrived set to 25 km/h which is ~15.5 mph, if you press the i button two times quickly, it enters the menu where you can cycle through to password (use 0, 5, 1, 2) and then change the max speed to 32 km/h for 20 mph or up to 60 km/h for close to 28 mph top assisted speed (of course, you can also go slower than 25 km/h if you’d like)
  • Shipping was very inexpensive at $70 and the bike arrived in great shape, they put styrofoam on both sides of the box as well as the front and back, they also bubble wrap the frame and sensitive hardware like the light, display, and battery
  • For someone who wants a bit of comfort but only plans to ride in the city, the ergonomic grips, larger knobby tires, and basic suspension feels pretty great, it would perform better in snow and going over bumpy roads than a hardtail or city bike
  • The battery locks securely to the frame and felt tighter than some of the older VoltBike models (I’m told they have all been tightened so they won’t rattle), you can click the battery onto the frame without the key
  • It’s nice to have access to USB power to charge your phone, GPS, music player, or additional lights, consider grabbing a right angle USB adapter to keep your plugs out of the way


  • The suspension isn’t especially smooth or long travel, you’ll probably need a special shock pump to adjust the pressure on the rear air suspension, I used this Izende mini-pump that works for Schrader and Presta valves, is light, small, and has a pressure gauge built in
  • Disc brakes are perfect for trail and mountain riding but 160 mm is kind of small and mechanical requires more hand strength than hydraulic, they also don’t have adjustable reach levers
  • The stem seems a little long, I felt like I was very stretched out horizontally and a bit squished vertically because of the short 200 mm seat post, consider replacing it with a 30.4 mm diameter 350 mm length post like this, you can always use a hack saw to shorten it if needed but make sure to have enough post in the tube to provide strength
  • There was nowhere to mount a rear rack or bottle cage bosses but that’s not abnormal for low and mid-level full suspension ebikes due to battery placement, you may be able to add fenders… if you need a rack, consider a beam rack like this or the Thule Pack ‘n Pedal
  • The tools they give you are pretty weak, I ended up using my own allen key set and nearly stripped one of the brake lever bolts trying to tighten it with the incorrect size (they didn’t include the exact size 3/16 for this part), on a sidenote, consider using some Polylube 1000 grease for mounting the pedals (just a little stripe on the threads)
  • Very minor gripe, but the display panel connection uses a press fit vs. threaded connector with a rubber washer, these aren’t as reliable or water resistant but apparently the battery, motor and display are all IP65 rated against dust and water which is cool
  • The rear air suspension doesn’t have any labeling for recommended PSI and there aren’t marks on the stanchion to sag it properly… it’s pretty basic


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3 months ago


I know they are completely different beasts, but would you say the Voltbike Yukon had better build quality than the Voltbike Enduro? Your review of that one was a bit more favorable. I’d like to get one of them this year as it’s within my price range.


Court Rye
3 months ago

Hi Geffin, I’d say they are very similar. I just didn’t go as in depth with the Yukon… had less time and wasn’t as knowledgeable about mountain bike components until recently. Both models offer good value and should hold up if you take care, perhaps the biggest letdown on the Enduro for me was the seat post length and that’s a ~$10 fix :)

3 months ago

Is this only a pedalac model or does it allow the ability to just use throttle only and no pedalling ?

Court Rye
3 months ago

Hi Scott, I asked the founder of VoltBike this same question and he explained that the mid-motor they chose isn’t setup for throttles and they couldn’t add it. That may be a bummer for some people but you could still get their hub motor hardtail Yukon 750 which does have a throttle if you want :)

Fredrick Edelkamp
2 months ago

Court, Love the HUD (Heads Up Display) on the video review! First time I’ve seen it on your videos (and I watched a lot of them) how did you do it?

Court Rye
2 months ago

Hi Frederick! I use a Garmin Edge 1000 device and then export the data file to overlay on video using the Garmin VIRB Edit software… then I take that overlayed footage and import it into iMovie before doing the rest of my normal video editing :D

Eric Larson
1 month ago

Hi Court,

Thanks for the fantastic reviews and video’s, what a wealth of information! I am trying to decide between the RAD City E-Bike and the Volt Enduro. I will be using the bike to ride trails and street’s in Seattle. Both companies are a stones throw away so I am torn down the middle on what to go with. What are the pro’s and Con’s to having a throttle? Thanks, -E

Court Rye
4 weeks ago

Hi Eric! I’d go with the Enduro myself because I love suspension and have a sensitive back and neck… I don’t miss the throttle that much because I like pedaling and have found that the Bafang Max Drive is very fluid and responsive. It’s one of my favorite ebike systems right now actually. Rad Power Bikes is awesome and the City model is great but unless you need the rack for carrying cargo, the Enduro is just more fun and comfortable :) but in Seattle you might get more wet without fenders :P


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2 weeks ago

Hi Chris,

My Enduro uses an ambient light sensor to determine whether or not it should have the headlight on. Is that the same for the Mariner? And if so is it possible that you've covered it somehow, tricking it into thinking its always dark? Just spitballing ideas.
Hi! Yeah I was thinking about maybe being a sensor, but the manual doesn't say anything about it, for what I have read on the manual you turn them on and off manually.

Hmm but I'll check thoroughly if there is a sensor, just in case, thanks for the advice!

2 weeks ago

Hi Chris,

My Enduro uses an ambient light sensor to determine whether or not it should have the headlight on. Is that the same for the Mariner? And if so is it possible that you've covered it somehow, tricking it into thinking its always dark? Just spitballing ideas.

3 weeks ago

I have a '16 E-Stream Enduro FS and absolutely love it. Since I often ride 4 miles on the pavement to and from the trails I didn't want the plus sized tires thinking they would a lot more "draggy". The 2.35" wide Hans Dampf tire work excellent on the terrain I encounter here in Arizona.

Tom W
3 weeks ago

I'd like to follow up on my earlier post about my bike's crank failure with a related issue: lack of proper ground clearance for enduro mountain biking.

As far as I am aware the Giant Full E+ bikes have the lowest motor-to-ground clearance in their segment. Compare the side view of the Giant Full E+ against virtually any of its enduro-level competitors and you will see that the Giant motor projects further downward, below the bottom bracket axle, than the others. I haven't completed measurements myself (most of the competitors aren't even sold here), but the difference is several inches compared to the best-in-class, as shown in the photos attached. Be aware when looking at photos that the Bosch drive uses a much smaller chainring, so while it may appear to stick down a similar amount below the edge of the chainring, the actual ground clearance is much better than the Giant.

Ground clearance means little if you are riding simple forest paths, but for any real black- or double-black trails like we have in my part of the world, it is critical. Having the motor hang up on an obstacle means potential motor damage and, much worse, the potential for getting bucked forward off the bike. At the very least it means that you'll have to be constantly aware of the low clearance available, and either adapt your riding or simply walk over obstacles that could otherwise be ridden.

As a note to anyone in the bike review industry: Please consider adding ground clearance at the motor casing as figure of merit used to rate off-road electric bikes. It should be measured both at rest and at full suspension compression to take travel into account, and should be measured at the lowest point that isn't hidden behind the stock chainring.

The reason that the Giant bikes have such low ground clearance is because they started with a compromised drive system. As I mentioned in the earlier post, the Yamaha motor was developed for the commuter and street bike market. The Yamaha's square taper bottom bracket axle, the cheap crankarms, and the low ground clearance don't matter at all for that market.

However, when you start with all those compromises and try to stretch the performance envelope all the way to enduro MTB, as Giant has done with the Full E+0, you end up with a highly compromised and, in my opinion, dangerous, bike.

@ Akhim: The fact that your crank bent, rather than the pedal threads ripping out, could mean a number of things. Highly dependent on the geometry of the impact and, of course, whether your crank was made from inferior material. The failure on my bike could be batch-specific at the manufacturer, who knows. But unfortunately if you replaced the crank in kind (as you almost have to do, there are very few other options), then your new crank could be from a defective batch. No way to tell, unfortunately.

Tom W

Edward Kean
4 weeks ago

Comparo caveat - 60yrs old, 190lb w/15yrs of un-assisted Colorado, Utah, and New Mexico trail and mtn riding- I ride hyper technical tight turny steep loose babyhead granite sandstone rooty sandy complicated random bushwacky w/ lots of stumps, logs, rocks, jumps, drops and occasionally "singletrack" and also a bit of paved and dirt roads. The more weird, surprising and challenging, the better.

Spec Turbo Levo FSR vs. Bulls E-Stream Evo FS3 27.5+

Both - creamy sweet quiet forgiving Brose, bitchen plush ride, sticky planted plus tires, balanced fork angle for both turning and decending.

Battery - Spec -460Wh, Bulls 650Wh - game over, don't need to read further (650W is a compromise (650 gets me to about 5 hrs of the above so I have another in my backack).


BB - Spec - low and modern (crunch/slam obstacles) Bulls - awesome clearance (ride)

Controls - Spec - on side of down tube (down tube? side?) or phone (phone?) Bulls - on the handlebar by the grip (steep section - engage meth squirrel mode)

Walk mode - Spec (walk mode?) Bulls (bike will crawl up three flights of condo stairs at 3am after the Bluegrass Festival)

USB outlet - Spec - na (and phone is dead) Bulls - plug in and call a chopper if I forgot to put it in airplane mode

Disclosure- I'm with Small Planet EBikes in Colorado and although not carrying Spec I did buy one at my LBS and loved it for the super cool looks, Brose motor, nifty software, enduro geometry & vibe, plush ride, and top notch dealers (an awesome bike for short groomy).

Tom W
1 month ago

The following is a summary of my experience owning, albeit briefly, a 2017 Giant electric bike. To cut to the end, it did not go well. I returned the bike to Giant after the events I describe below, but feel that I have an obligation to let other riders know what happened, as I believe there are serious safety and honesty/integrity issues involved.

Based on a successful test ride of the Giant Full E+1 electric mountain bike, I purchased a 2017 Giant Full E+0 in mid-June 2017. My only major reservation was the square taper crank interface, as these have not been used on real mountain bikes well over a decade. But given Giant’s size and reputation, our satisfaction with the three Giants we've owned over the past 15 years, and the fact that their website listed the crankset supplier as Praxis Works, I mistakenly believed that Giant had done their homework.

After a thorough check-over to eliminate the standard shop assembly issues (under-torqued bolts, no grease or washers on the pedals, chain with only storage lubricant on it, etc), I took it out for a first ride. Minutes after starting the first downhill trail, on an innocuous 60 cm drop over some rocks to a smooth, downhill-sloped landing (shown in the photo), my brand-new Spank Spike pedal ripped completely out of the drive-side crankarm.

I was very lucky that the pedal provided just enough support as it came out that I didn't lose control. As I skidded to a stop, my immediate thought was that the square taper interface must have failed, but only the pedal was on the ground. The failure had nothing to do with the pedal, it was the crankarm internal threads that had failed catastrophically.

The cause of the failure was simple: Giant made a choice years ago to partner with Yamaha for their motor technology. Yamaha only makes a square taper interface for their power unit (until the 2018 model year). Giant chose not to specify and procure a proper crankset for the intended service of the bike (i.e. enduro mountain biking). Instead they specified an FSA CK-745 crankset. I have no idea what testing Giant did at the time, but that crank is designed for a different market (commuter ebikes that are used to buy groceries and ride around in the city). And it is made very cheaply - full retail is $38 on FSA's website. The design of the crank is probably fine, but I believe that the material is not. I didn't have the resources to have it tested, of course, but I strongly believe that the aluminum used would not come close to the strength required by the 6061-T6 specification, which is the standard aluminum for an MTB crank of this type and application. The FSA webpage on the square taper CK-745 just says the material is 'alloy', which is meaningless and likely indicative of the very low quality aluminum used.

Beyond the quality of the part is Giant's misleading specification sheet. You'll remember that the crankset was supposed to be a Praxis Works according to Giant's website (quoting Giant Canada’s website when I bought the bike: “Crankset: Praxis Works Custom Forged, 38”, where 38 is the number of teeth on the chainring).

In reality Praxis Works had nothing to do with the crank at all. They had provided only the chainring. So Giant was using Praxis Works' name to mislead consumers, by suppressing the FSA part number to hide the low quality of the crank. When I confronted Giant Canada on this, they said it was a simply a mistake.

It is curious to think how often such 'mistakes' are made when the advantage goes to the consumer rather than the company.

To Giant Canada’s partial credit, they quickly changed the crankset description on their website to "Giant Custom Forged by FSA" after my initial complaint and warranty claim, with a separate note about the Praxis Works chainring.

However, this new wording is still clearly intended to deceive the public, as there is no doubt that the actual crank installed on the bike is an FSA CK-745. The only 'custom' thing Giant did was to take FSA's logo off the visible side. When I confronted the Canadian brand manager with this, he said he was completely comfortable with the ‘custom’ wording and would not change it. Two weeks after leaving numerous voice messages and sending them an email with a version of this posting attached, Giant USA has not had the courtesy to even reply to me.

Some of Giant’s international websites have an additional line in the crankset description saying that the cranks are 'minimal Q-factor'. While the deception attempted here is less important, the claim is ridiculous. A properly designed crank for the Yamaha drive system could easily reduce the Q-factor (the perpendicular distance between pedals) by 20-25 mm compared to the supplied FSA cranks.

So here are my conclusions: If you own or are considering buying a Giant ebike from any model year, you are in danger of crank arm failure at the pedal interface. In this mass-produced world, the chance that my bike had the only defective crank arm is essentially zero. Giant's specification of such a low-end crank on an otherwise high-end (US retail $7700) bike is, in my opinion, unforgivable. And may be worthy of a lawsuit in the unfortunate but almost-inevitable event that someone does lose control and is seriously injured when their properly-installed pedal rips out of their crankarm. I was very lucky to walk away uninjured, and under no circumstances would I recommend that anyone trust such a low-end crank for real off road riding.

Furthermore, as far as I am aware owners of Giant ebikes have no other viable crank options at this time. Nobody in the world makes mid- or high-quality square taper cranks for the Yamaha drive.

Giant is the world’s largest bike manufacturer and they could easily have had a proper set of cranks manufactured for this line of bikes. They should have been made of at least 6061, and preferably 7000 series, aluminum, with proper Q-factor for the Yamaha motor. But they chose not to bother.

Giant should now be taking a whole series of actions, including a thorough investigation of the pedal interface strength of this crank and others like it, warnings to consumers, and, if testing shows similar defects in other cranks, then a recall should be initiated.

And no more deceptive specification sheets. Every one of Giant’s global websites should list FSA CK-745 as the crank on this bike, and similarly for the specifications of all their other bikes. If a manufacturer customizes something they have to say what they’ve done, not hide low quality parts behind a ‘custom’ façade after changing only the graphics.

This issue is not isolated to just Giant bikes either – there are many other ebike companies using low quality drivetrain parts. And it is probably not isolated to just 2017 and earlier model Giants. Some of Giant’s 2018 ebikes will have an ISIS drive interface, but the quality of the cranks they use will probably be the same (the advanced sales literature still refers to them as ‘custom forged’). So they will probably be just as likely to fail at the pedal interface as earlier models.

The following are more detailed technical notes, and are included only for those with an interest in the minutiae of the failure. I’ve included them on the basis that unusual claims require a higher level of proof:

• First, keep in mind that all the photos were taken after the trail-side incident was over. At the time the pedal came off I was stranded on the trail, and the crank was clearly destroyed. As darkness was falling, I tried to screw the pedal back into the deformed threads so I could limp home. However, the first few threads just ripped out completely. So the photos show the outer section of the pedal thread in the crankarm torn out, but this did not happen at the same time as the crankarm failure.

• The Full E+0 has 140 mm travel with a Rockshox Super Deluxe shock, which was pressurized to 190 psi. It did not bottom out on the small drop, and neither did the Lyrik fork. I did land the drop with my weight biased to the right side (probably 80%) when the crankarm failed, but there is nothing unusual in that. The drop is tiny by enduro mountain bike standards.

• The cranks did not suffer any rock strikes prior to the failure. The pedals and cranks are unblemished except for a dent in the pedal bearing housing that must have happened as the pedal flew off the bike. It could not have happened during the failure (if it struck a rock as I landed, for example), as the dent has a distinct direction - about 25 degrees sideways - which is completely inconsistent with a rock strike while moving forward at ~15 km/h. And beyond that, there is no matching mark on the crankarm.

• Many of you are probably thinking that the most likely cause of such a failure is a pedal that has become partially unscrewed. However, I installed them myself to 35 ft*lb (with grease), and pedals are threaded so that precession acts to tighten them, so the probability that they were partially unscrewed is already extremely small. But evidence inside the crank arm proves the failure occurred when the pedal was fully threaded into the crank. With the Spank pedal and pedal washer in place there are two unengaged threads inside the crankarm.

The photos attached show that the damage starts at the third thread (subtle damage, paint is missing), which is the first internal thread that engages with the pedal. And there is progressively more damage on each successive thread, moving from the inner side of the crankarm to the midpoint. The fourth thread is clearly deformed. From the midpoint on the threads are stripped away completely as I described earlier.

The pattern and orientation of the damage to the crankarm threads is consistent with the back of the pedal thread levering itself up into the top of the crank threads as it came out, with the crank at the 4:30 position (looking at the drive side of the bike). This is consistent with my right foot being forward as I rode over the drop. At the time of failure, vertically upward corresponded to the direction from the pedal centerline toward the ‘4’ in the ‘CK-745’ logo printed on the crank.

In contrast, the other side of the crankarm thread (which was facing down as the pedal ripped out from the opposite side of the crank) appears to be undamaged.

• For completeness, the OD of the pedal thread on the Spank pedal exactly matches the stock Giant pedals (14.0 mm on my cheap micrometer, nominal is 14.022 mm). So there was nothing wrong with the pedal. The pedal threads do not appear to be damaged but the dent in the bearing housing has effectively destroyed the pedals. And no, Giant did not offer to replace them. Spank, however, has offered a crash replacement at reduced cost.

For the record I have no financial interest in, nor any social ties to, any other bike company.

Please spread the word on this issue so that it creates real change. And if you work for Giant or another company that uses cheap drivetrain components on mountain ebikes: do something about this before someone is seriously injured.


Tom W

Burnaby BC

1 month ago

Court. You are a great host. I started my interest with a possible ebike by watching you tube vids of Radrover. I truly thought that was THE ebike for me. A forum member suggested the Pacer. I watched your review and your enthusiasm for it was attractive. THEN two days ago I watched your Voltbike enduro review!! You seemed very impressed! And the price point is attractive. I am starting to lean towards mid drive? Less stuff back there. What do you think of the Volt enduro fitted with upright bars? Like cruiser bar retrofitting. Just curious. I am 71 yrs old and looking for 75% pavement and 25% dirt. I am starting to realize I might be able to spend a lot less than $3k as well. I think I may want fat tires as well. Hydraulic brakes would be cool. How about this Teo-fat? I can't find your review of it.? This may be a difficult choice but I have time for more research.

1 month ago

As to suggestions for alternatives, I was looking at comparably priced iZip bikes when I decided on the Enduro because I wanted the rear suspension. At the same price point they seem to have respectable quality, but I'm no expert and this is the first electric I've ever owned so you may want to try asking one of the general threads for the best bikes in your size and price range.

I hope that helps!

1 month ago

I Just ordered the Voltbike Enduro(back ordered till 8/3). I'm 5'6" and wonder, based on your feedback, if the bike's to big for someone my size? Currently have a Specialized Roubaix and street ride around 1200 miles/yr. At 65 I'm thinking I would enjoy and look forward more to biking if the hills were not an issue so E Bike sounds like the perfect choice. Not afraid to spend more for a bike that's a better fit/quality, but can't see spending $4k if I don't have to.. I'm looking for recommendations on an E Bike comparable to the Enduro that's maybe a better fit for someone my size, but if a new seat post and handle bar mount/bars will solve the problem than that's fine. Your thoughts?

Hi George! To tell you the truth I'm not entirely sure. My primary issue with the bikes scale is storage. I live in a second story apartment, so lugging the long and heavy bike up and down daily can be difficult. If you need to traverse stairs I would strongly suggest looking for a shorter and lighter bike. The weight isn't really out of line with other non aluminum/carbon full suspension ebikes, though you may be able to shave some pounds with something that doesn't have rear suspension.

The seat can get quite low, it's issue is actually that it can't go very high. I wouldn't really be too concerned about the step over and seat height. The difficulties with the bike are entirely in it's length and weight for me.

At 1,200 miles you sound more than strong enough for the bike when you're actually riding it, and the pedal assist makes it quite easy most of the time. I can't speak to your situation with storage and travel, so it's going to come down to how often you need to lift the bike off it's wheels. If you like to pack the bike up and travel I'd definitely suggest finding a smaller model.

2 months ago

I Just ordered the Voltbike Enduro(back ordered till 8/3). I'm 5'6" and wonder, based on your feedback, if the bike's to big for someone my size? Currently have a Specialized Roubaix and street ride around 1200 miles/yr. At 65 I'm thinking I would enjoy and look forward more to biking if the hills were not an issue so E Bike sounds like the perfect choice. Not afraid to spend more for a bike that's a better fit/quality, but can't see spending $4k if I don't have to.. I'm looking for recommendations on an E Bike comparable to the Enduro that's maybe a better fit for someone my size, but if a new seat post and handle bar mount/bars will solve the problem than that's fine. Your thoughts?

Robert Bjoraker
2 months ago

that enduro offers huge value! wow!

Mark Peralta
2 months ago

it is an 800Li. from way back. this is second battery but older so no surprise. wish the battery could be easily removed. its quite hard to get them out.
I assume it's an Optibike, and it has a 36 volt, 20ah Li-Ion.
Here's the rest of the spec:
Performance and frame specifications:
Stock Range: 45 miles - electric only; 57 miles - moderate pedaling
Stock run time: 1 hour in fast mode; 2.25 hours in economy mode
Top Speed: 20 mph - electric only; 27 mph-light pedal assist; 34 + mph - moderate pedaling assist
Battery Type: 36 volt, 20ah Li-Ion
Motor Type: High efficiency, brushless DC motor with rare earth, Neodymium Iron Boron magnets
Motor Drive: Patented Motorized Bottom Bracket (MBB)
Controller: Derivative Power Control (DPC)
Motor Power: 800w continuous power
Charge Time: 7 hours
Overall Weight: 57 lbs.
Suspension: Stock full suspension. Front: Fox 32 Talas RLC Fork; Rear: Fox Float RP23 Shock
Brakes: Avid Juicy Carbon
Gears: Shimano XT 7 speed derailleur
Shifter: Sram Grip-Shift
Frame: Monocoque aluminum frame
Headset: Cane Creek 110
Color: Red
Wheels: Mavic 26" wheels, Cross trail Disk
Lights: Integrated dual beam UltraBright 10w Halogen headlamp
Source: http://www.weiku.com/products/7989972/Optibike_800_Li_electric_bike_specifications.html

Here is the dissaembly of the battery and it is mentioned that All Cell may be the battery vendor.
In any case, frame still has to be taken apart plus the battery itself could easily cost you in the low one thousand dollars. And it is an old ebike with throttle only and no PAS. To me it is not worth the hassle.

For slightly more money, you get what I believe will be a better bike like the VoltBike enduro.

here's the rest of the info. https://electricbikereview.com/voltbike/enduro/

Mark Peralta
2 months ago

Why didn't you just buy another Voltbike if you wanted to have a compatible battery?

Good recommendation. Joe EE. you can buy a mid drive version of Volt bike
with superior climbing power and a change of cycling experience for an expanded overall exposure to electric bikes. Makes cycling even more exciting!

I had a similar dilemma in the past where I had a hub drive (2015 Izip Dash) and I wanted to have an extra battery. The battery at that time was hard to find and was very expensive. I saw a highly discounted mid drive with the same battery (2015 Raleigh Tekoa). I grabbed the opportunity and now I am rotating my ebikes everytime I go out for a ride and appreciate the unique advantages of each drive system.

Addendum: I think you can also unlock the speed limit of the mid drive using the display setting.

Larry Ganz
2 months ago

Your rides could be easier with a mid-motor, but I don’t think you’ll find an OEM bike for less than $2K in the current market. It could be accomplished within that price range by retro-fitting a Bafang mid-drive kit to an existing bicycle. Some mid bikes weigh in the 45# range.

If you go for a hub, a geared hub will produce more muscle per pound than a direct-drive and in a more compact package, and won’t cog/drag when the power is off.

Fatbike tires are the ticket for soft sand and mud but create a lot of drag on harder surfaces. Drag adds significant effort to pedaling and has a high appetite for battery energy. For your application around the camp ground and on paved and dirt roads, standard 2.00” tires would be a lot more practical, and offer more tread choices.

Because you will be frequently putting the bikes onto a rack, and the rack will be supporting the load, overall bike weight with the battery removed should be a consideration. Test lift during a test ride.

The Voltbike Enduro is a 55.7lb Bafang motor mid drive factory eBike with dual suspension, with 2" tires and currently priced at $1799 + about $50-60 shipping. My $429 Yakima Hold Up bike rack is rated for two 60lb eBikes.

So that should all work in their budget, however I think it only comes in one size with a 29" standover height.


2 months ago

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2 months ago

...If I missed something that I should, please let me know. What do you guys think? Pick your favorites please! Just reply back with the name of your pick and let's see which one wins :D

I like the offerings from Kali Protectives. I have the City (or Urban). I think they have a helmet for road racers that is a couple of hundred bucks and very highly rated. But as well a lot of full face offerings for enduro riders:


2 months ago


I want to get my first mountain e-bike and would prefer a Canadian brand.
I'm open to suggestions as I only found 2 options so far https://electricbikereview.com/voltbike/enduro/ and http://igoelectric.com/29er/
I know nothing of e-bikes and performance mountain bikes and intend to spend less than 3000 USD.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Yukon 500
2 months ago


I've had a new Voltbike Enduro and have ridden it for about 230 miles now and I have noticed that when the battery is low (but not empty) the motor will start to struggle or intermittently cut out. The LCD display will often show that I have 2 "bars" of power left (out of 10), but the battery itself will display 1 light out of 5 and sometimes even 0. I understand that 1 light and 2 bars are the same with that math, but since the motor is cutting out and sometimes simply ceasing all together the computer displaying 20 percent power (rather than 10%) seems very inaccurate. It has caused me to misjudge my remaining distance, keeping the motor at its highest setting when I should have been much more conservative.

It hasn't been a huge problem for me, as I've just adjusted how often I charge the battery and I'm large enough that I can manage this large bike without the motor, but it's something that could be problematic for some.

I have a Yukon 500 and put around 1,300 miles on it. The battery is still working perfectly for me and never experienced any issue. I have a commute of 15 miles each way everyday and and battery is showing 2 lights (4 lights when fully charged) after each ride. But I do charge to full after each ride.

Having said that, I agree the battery indicator on the LCD (handlebar) is not accurate at all, nor does the indicators on the battery itself. 2 lights does not mean there are 50% power left. I noticed for a few times that when I was going uphill or against strong wind, the indicator dropped suddenly from 50% to almost zero and started flashing. It looks like there is no power left at all. But once I reached flat terrain or when the gust is over, the indicator went back to its normal level. The motor never cut off though.

I think you'd better charge the battery after each ride. You do not have to second-guess how much is left then. And I heard that will also extend your batter life by increasing the number of charge cycles significant. I remember seeing a chart somewhere on internet, saying it could even double the number from 350 to 700. I am not sure whether there is any scientific proof to quantify that, but I think the statement is true overall.

2 months ago


I've had a new Voltbike Enduro and have ridden it for about 230 miles now and I have noticed that when the battery is low (but not empty) the motor will start to struggle or intermittently cut out. The LCD display will often show that I have 2 "bars" of power left (out of 10), but the battery itself will display 1 light out of 5 and sometimes even 0. I understand that 1 light and 2 bars are the same with that math, but since the motor is cutting out and sometimes simply ceasing all together the computer displaying 20 percent power (rather than 10%) seems very inaccurate. It has caused me to misjudge my remaining distance, keeping the motor at its highest setting when I should have been much more conservative.

It hasn't been a huge problem for me, as I've just adjusted how often I charge the battery and I'm large enough that I can manage this large bike without the motor, but it's something that could be problematic for some.

3 months ago

Check out Haibike 2016 specials, and this Easy Motion here's Court's review. The Voltbike Enduro doesn't have a throttle but is a good price and Court did an extensive review.

3 months ago

some pics at the end

Hey. This is my first post and my first bike since I was in my teens, so if I misuse terms or I sound like a laymen it's because I am!

As a bit of history I have been commuting by car in the city of Boston for the last five or so years. Boston is a terrible city for car commuting, there are few parking spots, minor collisions are inevitable (I was hit at least four times between 2014 and my cars unfortunate death two months ago), tickets are a fact of life if you are forced into street parking like I was, and it's the most expensive insurance market in the country (A year in car insurance on a used VW alone pretty much buys this bike).

That's all before my car was totaled when a semi rear ended me. I was done driving in this warzone.

The Bike


I settled on the Enduro after doing a ton of research into alternative modes of transportation and then watching/reading plenty of reviews on this site. I tried to buy a clearance bike from a local bike shop that sold FELT electrics, but they just weren't able to bring the price to something I could accept. I think a four thousand dollar electric bike is probably worth the price, but so does every bike thief in the city and that's a liability I just wasn't into. That said, I also didn't want to go cheap, this site did a pretty good job convincing me that trying to go as cheap as I could was going to result in a bad experience.

I had initially tried to buy the IZIP E3 Vibe+ but that was back ordered for months. I'm glad I didn't as the roads in Boston are often a step away from disintegrating and the shocks are great to have. I feel like the Voltbike Enduro is the perfect price for someone in my situation and I haven't felt let down at all by the product. So far it's been worth every penny. With the 70 dollar shipping, free helmet, a Kryptonite bike lock and other minor accessories I have spent about $2,000 so far. An eighth the cost of the car its replacing, and that thing was used. I am excited watching the overall cost of electrics go down. I feel like this bike is part of a new generation of higher quality bikes that still sit in a somewhat affordable price range.

Initial experience:

The box came pretty beat up, but it looked almost identical to the one in this sites review unit, so I guess that's just standard for bike shipping The review had no problem with it and the bike suffered no damage I could notice. The bike assembly was easy. I was able to figure it out with no instructions within a half hour of getting the box shipped to my office. This is coming from someone who has never assembled or even tuned a bike before, so that's a good thing.

The gearing was notably misaligned and the brakes were very loose out of the box. The rear air shock was also so over-filled it felt like it did nothing at all. I didn't fix anything for my first week, but the chain was dropping and it felt a little unsafe. Once I had some time alone with the bike and some youtube tutorials I was able to tune the derailleur and tighten the brakes. The brakes were easy, but tuning up gearing on a bike is not an easy process if you've never done anything like it before. I also made the exact mistake Court made in his review where I released all the air from the rear shock at once. Having no shock felt the same as an over-full one, except the bike then ran a good deal shorter. Luckily a local bike shop was nice enough to refill it for me and now it feels great. I would strongly suggest getting the bike tuned up out of the box if you're able, most aspect that can be tinkered with in my experience needed to be.

100 miles in:

I've had the bike for a few weeks and I passed the 100 mile mark on the trip meter today. Tuned up the bike runs wonderfully. Once I found the password and upped the governor to 28mph my commute time dropped noticeably. The battery doesn't last very long at the max power AND speed settings, with a range that feels to be around 20 miles, but I was getting better performance when I was trying to ride conservatively at a middle power setting and had not yet ungoverned the motor. I believe the documented min/max distances and I had been expecting a loss in battery life when I pushed the motor to a 28 cap. I find it very strange that they limited the motor to 14 MPH, which seems well below a legal limit anywhere, and I would suggest immediately upping it to whatever setting you feel comfortable with (there's a hard cap at 28). The motor can not hit the 28 mph it theoretically limits at. Even downhill while pedaling pretty hard passing 26mph is difficult and the tires are not built for speed, but it's relatively easy to maintain 20-23mph speeds on flat ground while sitting down. That has felt perfectly fine for me, Boston has a lot of stop signs and few straights. I think this is just an aspect of gearing, the bike just doesn't have a high enough gear for the motor to provide useful torque at speeds above the low 20's.

I have had one hiccup where at what looked to be 20% power the motor began to stutter, with the battery at one point seemingly dying. I popped the battery out and put it back in and it ran well enough to get me back home. I suspect this may have something to do with maxing out the engines cap, or it could be that the system inaccurately reads the batteries charge state at low levels. It ran fine the next day after a charge, so I am keeping watch.

The bike survived riding in a thunderstorm just fine, but I did get pretty wet. Fenders would be nice, but probably aren't realistic given the style of bike this is. It's a tradeoff, the rear shocks make the bumpy streets much smoother. If I had the choice I would go with the shocks over staying dry, but that's a personal preference.

I am a 6 foot 200 pound male and I mirror some of the complaints Court had in his review. Even raising the seat and setting it as far forward as possible it feels like there is too much distance between me and the handlebars. I've gotten used to it, but this is not a bike for small people and I would prefer the bike not be so long. It's also hell to get up to my second story apartment. I have been switching between upstairs and in the buildings basement. The weight makes the second floor climb annoying, but the bikes length makes navigating the tight basement stairs equally difficult. I am a gym goer, but this is a very awkward thing to carry with few good places to grasp. Again, this is not a bike for small people.

The bikes appearance is great. I have received several compliments on it. The matte black paint scheme is very attractive and I am happy that it lacks some of the more extreme sports inspired flourishes bikes often have in their design and paint jobs. I have made converts out of several co workers with both the looks and by giving them a ride. Most people are surprised trying an electric for the first time. It's an easy sell. The motorcycle style helmet is kinda dorky, but maybe that's just how it sits on me. It's definitely a fashion statement. The helmet is comfortable and feels sturdy and safe, so that's a plus.


I really like this bike. If the battery hiccup mentioned earlier turns out to be nothing then it'll be a purchase I have absolutely no regrets about and would suggest to anyone above a certain physical size. Looking at bikes that are twice the cost I can see their quality, but I think this thing holds its own. Looking at other bikes in the same price category or cheaper and this bike suddenly looks like an amazing value. The previously mentioned IZIP E3 Vibe+ has a rear rack serving as a fender and a step through frame but totally lacks the shocks that make this a great commuter at high speeds.

I am not a hardcore bike guy, and while I do a lot of hiking I have never done mountain biking. I'd like to in the future, but this is strictly from the perspective of a commuter. As a commuter this bike has been a dream, and riding is much more pleasant than driving. The weight is high and the bike is just too big overall, but that comes with the territory of a one size fits all approach. I have gotten a little bit of bike elitism thrown at me for buying an Electric with one co-worker jokingly (or maybe not?) saying they would beat me up if they saw me on a trail with it. This bike does not feel like it has the torque to actually damage a trail, but it's heavy so if you're skidding around every corner you could probably do some damage. But then so could anyone on any bike. I guess that comes with the territory of joining a new subculture. That one instance doesn't outweigh the good things people have been saying about the bike and I feel great riding it.

If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'll probably add to this if anything new pops up.

3 months ago

I have a Haibike Xduro FS emtb with the Bosch CX motor, and a Bulls E-Stream Enduro FS emtb with the Brose motor. I like riding the Bulls significantly more due to the more more intuitive Brose power delivery. Sure, the Bosch has a little more of a "kick" right off the start when in the highest setting (Turbo), but I feel the Brose is more powerful and really assists when needed. The more I give it, the more it gives. I can climb the same steep rocky hills with either, but the Brose just feels more powerful. I especially like how quiet the Brose is compared to the racket the Bosch makes.
I totally agree with Ravi on the mid vs. hub drives. I also have two hub drives that I like better for riding around town.

bob armani
4 months ago

How do you know which firmware you have? Just bought an FS3 few weeks ago and planning on getting an enduro this summer. After reading this thread, not sure if I can go with another Bulls bike. Any recommendation for other brands with strong dealer support?

Mikey-I hope Rotwild ebikes come to the USA! Looks like a great brand with an upgraded Brose'motor with 4 levels of assist instead of 3.

Looks like strong dealer support is a tall order at this stage of the game IMHO!

4 months ago

How do you know which firmware you have? Just bought an FS3 few weeks ago and planning on getting an enduro this summer. After reading this thread, not sure if I can go with another Bulls bike. Any recommendation for other brands with strong dealer support?

Aayush Parmar
4 days ago

Lol I can ride a cycle this much at once

3 weeks ago

What Happens when your battery goes out when you are riding with a mid drive motor?Do you have resistance like a direct drive motor or no resistance like a geared motor so you can ride home like a regular bike?

4 weeks ago

Only 350 Watts? What is the point? Grandma can ride it to church, that's about it. Forget about going up rough hills.

Don Mega
2 months ago

short riders could always saw the seatpost for an easy fix. they didn't think this through.

Stu Wright
2 months ago

good job showing the info while riding! seeing those fat bike vids makes me want one :-p

2 months ago

I was going to buy this one but decided to get the Voltbike Yukon Limited as my first Ebike.
Looking forward to the peddle assist since I do have some knee problems that rears their ugly head on hills.
My decision to get the Yukon had a lot to do with your reviews and a few others I saw so thanks.

Arnold Winters
3 months ago

Hey Court, your review of the Voltbike Enduro was great and encouraged me to buy one. Thanks. I am in the process of editing a video I made of the unboxing and setup. If you are ever in the Atlanta area, I would like to do a video with you on the Silver Comet Trail.

I received this Voltbike last Thursday and I love it, but unfortunately they did not include the ergonomic grips.

They included straight cylindrical grips. To their credit I wrote to George at Voltbike Support and he is sending me the ergonomic grips. I wonder how to install them myself. I imagine they will include instructions for removing the other ones and installing the ergo's.

I changed out the seat post to 200mm and it is fine.

Also I tried to sag the rear suspension and with the Izende hand pump filled it to 130 psi however, I don't feel it compress when I sit on the bike. Am I doing something wrong? Perhaps I need to ride over a curb, or release some air,

I like the motorcycle helmet which was included. I chose white for safety.

Arnold Winters
3 months ago

Court, what GoPro helmet holder do you use? I see it was chin high. Also how do you get the overlay on the video of the elevation, temperature, speed, etc.?

Tru jew
3 months ago

Excellent review and video.....enjoyed it allot.

ed mcmahon
3 months ago

"i'm here in my mothers garage"... i almost died laughing.

3 months ago

Call me weird but, I'd thoroughly enjoy that climb on a non ebike hard tail. That might change if ever I do one of my local climbs on an ebike. Nice video as always. Was that some occasional horse crap along the trail?

tom e gun
3 months ago

what do you think of the m2s bikes

3 months ago

Another great video review. I specially appreciate the fact you recognize that the makers KNOW you will review their bike so you are aware that what you get, and how you get it, might be not exactly the way all of us would. Keep up the good work Sir!

Jason Hoo
3 months ago

Wow nice video, I really enjoy watching as thought I am riding it. By the way did you manage to review the new Bafang Ultra motor or bike came with it?

Bill Gulsby
3 months ago

Yea! a bike that is cost reachable. Thanks

3 months ago

Court, I love your videos and learned a lot. New to ebikes. I am about 205lbs 5' 11". I am looking for a great bike to get around for fun in a beautiful coastal town with some very light, compacted trails. My budget is around $1.7k. Is the fat bike a way to go? any recommendations?

Conrad Rad
3 months ago

I'm 13 and i'm 5'9

Larry Ganz
3 months ago

Court, this was my favorite review of yours so far. I enjoyed the journey as well as the different camera angles, and it was very helpful seeing how it does off-road and climbing vs just on-road and with flat ground. You were able to show this bike in it's natural habitat, similar to how you took some fat bikes onto the beach where they shine.

Having the GPS data overlaid on the screen was quite nice, and I hope you can include that on the rest of your reviews. I think it's helpful to take all reviewed eBikes on a climb, to see how well they handle it (on and off road if applicable), and I also would not have taken the bike full blast downhill without better brakes and tires.

We've considered getting this bike for my son in college at CSU Ft Collins, and I've chatted with Voltbike about it, but didn't think to ask more questions. (1) I'd be curious to hear if at some point you were able to get the suspension dialed in properly, as well as (2) whether it has a lockout for the rear shock and front fork. (3) Also, are you going to try it with a taller seat post? (4) How was the seat cushion comfort? (5) how is the battery life and what is the battery WH rating vs motor rating?

We're also considering a Powerfly 5, or me getting a Powerfly 8FS+ and giving my Powerfly 7 to my son (much more expensive, and with the less expensive 5/7 combo we can share or swap 29" tires and inner tubes as well as swap batteries). What do you think?

Thanks for the great review.

Larry Ganz
3 months ago

Went back to the website and found a few answers: it has a "80NM 48v 350w mid-drive motor with torque pedal assist sensors, lockable front suspension with travel of up to 100 mm and lockable rear suspension ideal for light and medium terrain." and the battery is "48V 10.4Ah" = 499WH.

So that answers about the power output, battery WH, and lockout, but not about the battery life, seat/seat post, and suspension tuning.

Grape Eyes
3 months ago

Hi Court, great upload. What software did you use to have the route displayed on the screen? thanks

3 months ago

Dużo pierdolenia i mało jeżdżenia.