Add-E 250W Kit Review

Add E 250w Electric Bike Kit Review
Add E 250w Kit Installed
Add E 250w Kit Removable Bottle Battery 22 Volt 6 Amp
Add E 250w Kit Gearless Motor Unit
Add E 250w Kit Clean Handle Bars
Add E 250w Kit Belt Drive Compatible
Add E 250w Kit Kickstand Mount
Add E 250w Kit Grip Tape Friction Surface
Add E 250w Kit Side View
Add E 250w Kit Top Down View
Add E 250w Kit Width View
Add E 250w Kit Retail Box
Add E 250w Kit Unboxing
Add E 250w Electric Bike Kit Review
Add E 250w Kit Installed
Add E 250w Kit Removable Bottle Battery 22 Volt 6 Amp
Add E 250w Kit Gearless Motor Unit
Add E 250w Kit Clean Handle Bars
Add E 250w Kit Belt Drive Compatible
Add E 250w Kit Kickstand Mount
Add E 250w Kit Grip Tape Friction Surface
Add E 250w Kit Side View
Add E 250w Kit Top Down View
Add E 250w Kit Width View
Add E 250w Kit Retail Box
Add E 250w Kit Unboxing

Summary

  • Exceedingly compact, light weight and easy to remove (for temporary unpowered use) though it does produce more noise than most of the ebike kits I've tested
  • The bottle style battery pack is beautiful, the cap twists to add power at 50 watt increments up to 250 making it legal internationally, limited top speed of 15.5 mph
  • Lots of optional accessories including a twist or trigger throttle, the included five magnet pedelec disc isn't super responsive but works well and qualifies as Class 1
  • Compatible with a wide range of bicycle types but may require extra work to install (completely removing the bottom bracket), solid six month battery warranty

Search EBR

Video Review

Trusted Advertisers

Introduction

Make:

Add-E

Model:

250W

Price:

$1,012

Suggested Use:

Neighborhood, Urban

Electric Bike Class:

Pedal Assist (Class 1), Throttle on Demand (Class 2)
Learn more about Ebike classes

Warranty:

6 Month Battery, 2 Year Mechanical Parts

Availability:

United States, Worldwide

Model Year:

20152016

Bicycle Details

Battery Weight:

2.5 lbs (1.13 kg)

Motor Weight:

1.9 lbs (0.86 kg)

Geometry Measurements:

Motor Dimensions: 80 mm x 70 mm x 70 mm

Accessories:

EasyDo Bottle Cage for Battery, Additional Charger $80, Additional Battery $296, Universal Bottle Cage Mount $23, Crank Puller Tool $23, Brompton Specific Mounting Kit $182

Other:

Compact 2 Amp Charger, Removable Battery Pack

Electronic Details

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Gearless Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

250 watts

Battery Voltage:

22.2 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

6 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

133.2 wh

Charge Time:

2 hours

Estimated Min Range:

8 miles (13 km)

Estimated Max Range:

16 miles (26 km)

Drive Mode:

Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist, Twist Throttle, Trigger Throttle (5 Magnet Pedelec Disc)

Top Speed:

15.5 mph (25 kph)

Trusted Advertisers



Written Review

The Add-E 250W is a perfect electric bike kit for someone like me because it’s light weight, minimal and supports more active ride styles. It’s also probably the only choice for a lot of people who live in Europe due to legal restrictions of 25 kilometers per hour (15.5 mph) and power rating of 250 watts or less. Top speed is definitely one of my complaints compared to other kits available in the US that can reach 20 or even 28 miles per hour but this is still a satisfying kit. It’s noisier than a lot of other ebikes because the motor in’t contained within a hub and is spinning at a relatively higher RPM. You’ll notice the high pitched electronic whir in the video review above. Still, it’s something I got used to with a bit of time and the other elements of the design (namely size) make it very stealthy, nearly hidden on the frame! Weighing in at ~5.5 lbs including the motor, battery and mounting hardware this kit is light… and it’s mostly removable. The battery bottle can be taken off (and replaced with a real water bottle if you’d like) and the motor slides forward and off with a quick bolt adjustment (using a hex wrench). All of the weight that is present is kept very low and centered on the frame for improved balance and if you plan on riding further and have space for a second battery bottle on the downtube (assuming you used the seat tube for the first one) that will cost you ~$300 extra. Batteries get a basic six month warranty but all hardware gets two years which is awesome!

To me the Add-E makes a lot of sense when used on city style bikes, and maybe road bikes as well, but it’s not idea for full suspension setups because it may not reach the rear wheel at all times. A hardtail trail bike could be a good fit but might produce even more noise due to the knobs and require more frequent adjustment as the tread wears down over time. I love that it’s a seemingly affordable kit but want to point out that you get ~30% of the battery I would consider “average” in the US and may experience much shorter rides as a result (especially if you opt for the twist or trigger throttles). If you do get a throttle, you’ll be transitioning the bike from Class 1 to Class 2 and it may not be allowed at all in some countries. Add-E makes a 600 watt kit that I’m excited to check out and it’s not that much more expensive. I think my favorite part about the way it’s designed is that the motor friction surface does not come into contact with the tire when coasting (if installed correctly). It just hangs out sort of bouncing up and down as you traverse cracks, curbs and other obstacles and this means coasting is not impacted. It’s a super-efficient design, it’s beautiful but it’s also a bit loud and the 250 watt version especially may be underpowered and limited on range for some riders.

Pros:

  • The bottle style battery is extremely convincing and I love the way it operates (twist the cap to the right for 50 volt increments of additional power from 0 to 50 to 100 up to 250 total)
  • It’s great that this kit can work as pedal assist only or you can opt for twist and trigger throttle options, basically going from Class 1 to Class 2 depending on your needs (throttle mode will likely drain the battery faster if you choose not to pedal as actively)
  • The kit is extremely light weight (~5.5 lbs for all pieces combined) and minimal in appearance, the basic pedal-assist only setup has only one wire and keeps the handlebar area of your bike clean, if you add a throttle you’ll have one wire going from the battery area to your bars
  • Once the mounting plate has been installed, it’s pretty easy to remove the Add-E motor by loosening one bolt and unplugging the power… then simply take the bottle battery off and you’re back to a normal bike
  • The bottle cage battery adapter can be used with traditional water bottles (if you take the battery and Add-E off) but it doesn’t sit perfectly flat at the bottom due to the plug interface
  • You can get additional batteries for ~$300 to increase range and since they fit into normal bottle cages you could potentially have two mounted to the bike if you have bosses on the downtube and seat tube, each pack only weighs ~2.5 pounds which is nice
  • Because the motor and battery are mounted at the middle of the frame you get excellent balance and reduce unsprung weight compared with a hub motor… that said, I don’t think it would work well with a full suspension bike due to wheel movement and limited travel of the Add-E

Cons:

  • There are no display readouts so you can’t tell how full the battery pack is, how fast you’re going, how far you’ve traveled or anything else… you have to estimate or get a separate cycle computer but that still won’t display your battery
  • The battery capacity offered by this kit is extremely small compared to most kits and bikes I review (about 30% of average) so the range is lower, but it’s also much lighter than traditional offerings
  • You absolutely need space to mount the bottle cage but Add-E does sell an adapter kit for those without threaded bosses on their seat tube or downtube
  • Limited power and top speed on the 250 watt kit, it’s setup for European standards so you get ~15.5 mph top speed vs. 20 mph which is more common in the US, their 600 watt kit can top 20 mph and doesn’t cost much more
  • Depending on the frame design of your bicycle this kit may be easy to install (using a kickstand plate just behind the bottom bracket) or difficult (mounting Carbon fiber plates directly to the bottom bracket)
  • The five magnet pedelec disc isn’t as responsive as a 12 magnet disc and you don’t get brake levers with integrated motor inhibitors so there are moments where you may be braking against the motor
  • If you mount this kit using the kickstand plate you may no longer be able to use the actual kickstand and your bike may tip… consider an aftermarket chain-stay mounting kickstand
  • This kit is actually kind of expensive in my opinion given the very small capacity of the battery pack (about 30% as large as a “normal” sized battery of ~350 watt hours) if you bought two additional batteries you’d be priced at kits with 350+ watts of power vs. 250 but still much lighter weight

Resources:

Trusted Advertisers

More Add-E Reviews

Add-E 600W Kit Review

  • MSRP: $1,251
  • MODEL YEAR: 2015, 2016

Exceedingly compact, light weight and easy to remove (for temporary unpowered use) though it does produce more noise than most of the ebike kits I've tested. The bottle style battery pack is beautiful, the cap twists to add power at 50…...

Nirmala
2 years ago

I’m curious about the surface material of the friction drive. Is it replaceable? Do you think it might cause a lot of extra tire wear?

Reply
Court Rye
2 years ago

I’m wondering the same things Nirmala… but even without the grippy surface metal on rubber would still work alright (maybe unless it’s wet out?) difficult to say on the tire wear… I’d imagine that YES it would wear your tread down more quickly than a hub motor. It might depend on your tread pattern like knobby off-road vs. slick or hybrid tires. The system might also become louder on a knobby tire vs. the smoother ones used in this review :/

Reply
NerdBrick
1 year ago

I was one of the original funders of the Add-e campaign, and I have over 600 miles with my commuting on partial paved road and some hard packed gravel. It hasn’t really worn my tire any faster, but I should point out that I’m running a tire that is labeled “E-Bike” it has has a tread that good for my ridding conditions. The friction material on the motor is still holding up. I was worried it would be rubbed off sooner than the tire would wear. So far so good with both.

Greg Ritter
2 years ago

Thanks for the well done review. Was waiting for this review as I’ve been watching the news of the bike motor since its launch and like the look and idea behind the motor. But with what I’ve been learning about e bikes from reviews and info from this site, maybe this isn’t the way to go for an affordable, almost hidden ebike kit. I was looking for something with a little more power and some controls to adjust speed and keep track of battery life and distance. Plus the price is higher than I was thinking for what you get. Will continue to watch this site for further reviews, perhaps the go-e bike kit, with 800 W capacity and lower price point will have more success and be more of what I’m looking for. Will patiently stay tuned to electric bike review to keep informed.

Reply
Court Rye
2 years ago

Hi Greg! Yeah, I love the direction that the Add-E is exploring but it has limits with this iteration. I’ve been in touch with Go-E and hope to review their product at some point soon so keep an eye out and I’ll continue charging forward :D

Reply
Nirmala
2 years ago

A lot of the concerns raised in the review seem to be better addressed by the ShareRoller, another add-on friction drive. It is not as stealth as the Go-E, but it does have much more sophistication and features, and also three sizes of battery to accommodate different needs. You can learn more here: http://igg.me/at/shareroller/x/12713097

Court also did a review of an earlier version here: https://electricbikereview.com/shareroller/version-1/ (Note that the latest version includes a lot of improvements.)

Reply
David Barroso
2 years ago

I have the 600W (sport) version and it is great to take me to work and back. I do 15km (9.3mi) every day with some climbing (200m accumulated climb) with the power output set to maximum. The add-e takes me up to around 40km/h (24.8mph) with little effort. I do the same time by car, some times more, depending on traffic. I have a hardtail scott aspect with schwalbe big ben tyres.

Reply
Court Rye
2 years ago

Wow, that sounds awesome David! Pretty stellar performance for such a small battery pack. I’m assuming you use pedal assist only vs. throttle? Any other tips about getting the most out of the Add-E, noticed you’re using smooth tires vs. knobby.

Reply
David Barroso
2 years ago

Only pedal assist. I have another set of wheels with schwalbe thunder burt (knobby tyres) for off-road use. Tyres with smooth surface work better with the add-e. They have a bigger and better surface and therefore better grip between the metal surface of the motor and the tyre. And also less noise. The add-e when working sounds like an RC toy car :)

Reply
Court Rye
2 years ago

Cool, thanks David… I reached out to the company and was told that these Schwalbe Hurricane tires work well for off-road because the center is smooth but they are still wider and have some knobs on the edges for traction.

Michael Craigie
1 year ago

David, I installed the 600w set on my bike yesterday and went for a 15km ride on Map 1. Fairly flat ride with only one 2 short but steep hills. In the course of the ride it wore my brand new Continental Gatorskin tyre right down till the threads are exposed at one point. Do you have any tyre wear issues? Have I perhaps installed it incorrectly do you think?

Reply
Court Rye
1 year ago

Wow! That’s intense Michael… I didn’t ride very far during my demos for this review + video but the tires held up alright and they were just basic. Continental makes good stuff so I’m really surprised you’ve had such deep wear. I want to provide some sort of feedback like maybe the motor is too close to the tire but honestly, the design is built to “dig in” to get traction so even if it’s further vs. close you should still have similar force going from the motor to the tire… I really don’t know but am hoping David can chime in and help.

Geir
2 years ago

Love your reviews Court. I have the 600W one too, but its way to noisy so im not going to use it. If you drop your address I’ll be happy to donate it to you so you can do a review (I guess you already have a battery and the stand installed?)

Reply
Court Rye
2 years ago

That’s an awesome offer Geir! I’ll reach out :D

Reply

Post a Comment

Your email address will not be published.

Solom01
4 hours ago

Steve, I think I see what you're looking for. Just wondering, if you like your current road bike have you ever considered adding a kit to it such as: https://electricbikereview.com/add-e/250w-kit/? It seems like it would give you the little bit of extra power you need at times and is supposedly pretty easy to remove when you don't want it on the bike. The price seems kind of steep, but I believe there is a version of this on one of the funding sites such as Kickstarter that's going for about $160?

itsaulgoodman
6 hours ago

Nice looking bike, hub based motor rather than mid drive. The motor is from ebikemotion out of Spain. Looks like a 36v 250w motor with 40nm of torque (a little weak), and the battery is just 250w. That little hub motor might not be able to handle speeds greater than 25km/h, and with that small of a battery - your range wouldn't be great either.

Personally I find ebike road bikes a bit of a conundrum. Small light bikes can go greater than 25km/h easily on leg power, I get passed by road bikers all the time when clipping along at 32km/h on my ebike. So unless you are dealing with a lot of steep hills, the extra weight from a battery and motor are a disadvantage since you'll likely be doing all the work (above 25) anyways.

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/bikes/electric/product/orbea-gain-d10-review-51522/

https://www.ebikemotion.com/web/

itsaulgoodman
6 hours ago

I am sure this has been discussed but I can't find it by searching. I know there is a difference in upper speed for Class I bikes between Europe and the U.S. as described:

"Class 1: Pedal Assist
The electric drive system on the ebike can only be activated through a pedaling action and is limited to relatively low speeds. The sensor usually measures pedal movement, pedal torque or bicycle speed (sometimes all three) and sensors are located in the bottom bracket, rear hub or rear wheel. In parts of Europe this class is limited to 15 mph (25 kph) with motor wattage <= 250 watts. In America, because of our more liberal vehicle definition, this class is limited to a motor powered speed of 20 mph (32 kph) with motor wattage of <= 750 watts. Due to the low speed of operation and required pedaling action this class should benefit from the same rights and access privileges as non-assist bicycles and should be able to be used on streets, bike lanes, multi-use bike paths and off-road trails."

And I know that often the same model marketed in Europe has a top speed of 15 mph and in the U.S. that same model has a top speed of 20 mph. Am I correct in assuming in such instances this is a software rather than hardware difference? And can that be changed by a dealer? My specific question: If I get a bike from Europe that is later marketed in the U.S., could a dealer adjust the upper speed? Or would I literally have to buy a new model if I wanted 20 mph? Thanks!

You are correct that it is limited in the software. In Canada, 32km/h bikes are the only ones that are permitted. Those are typically powered by the same motors as the 25km/h ones in Europe (250w nominal). I seriously have my doubts a dealer would be able to update the software for you, and if you didn't buy the bike from them - they likely won't want to help you much at all. Your best be would be to research what delimiter options are available for that specific bike, and completely remove the limitation. However that obviously comes with it's own risks (legality, warranty, etc).

harryS
5 days ago

Hmm. My BBS02 is 46T and I have an 18T on the rear. That's a relatively easy gear combo to pedal, although my bike has 26" wheels while your Reid Wayfarer has 700CC wheels. What's your normal cruising speed? On my bike this would be about 16 mph and the pedal would spin a bit fast.

In any case, it's not much of a load on a 750W BBS02. The motor pulls the bike to 22 mph fairly easy. Maybe I can look at it again with low throttle yo better simulate a 250W BBS02 I'd listen to your Bafang guy though is he thinks it's too high. Start off with spme help from the pedala and try not to lug the notor on hills.

E-Wheels
6 days ago

I don't understand how Vika Travel with 16" wheels can be 35 lb total with battery, when the same Vika with 20" wheels weighs 56 lb total with battery.
On "Travel" they reduced the battery from 11AH to 9AH, and motor from 350W to 250W, saving ~3 lb on this. So the pair of 20" wheels is 18 lb heavier than a pair of 16"?
Might be a typo and is actually 53 lb?

Alex M
6 days ago

I don't understand how Vika Travel with 16" wheels can be 35 lb total with battery, when the same Vika with 20" wheels weighs 56 lb total with battery.
On "Travel" they reduced the battery from 11AH to 9AH, and motor from 350W to 250W, saving ~3 lb on this. So the pair of 20" wheels is 18 lb heavier than a pair of 16"?

harryS
1 week ago

You can chew on these too .

The Ancheer 20" on ebay for $600 shipped.

Also the Voltbike Mariner fpr $1289 plus $70 shipping,
These fat tire folders weigh over 50 pounds. Not light. A 20" folder with 36V battery has a top speed around 18 mph. If your students want more speed, then a 48V battery is needed, although I don't know if I would want to ride over 20 mph in traffic. You're too small. Not easily seen, and your speed will be misjudged by motorists.

I'd treat them like bikes that can make a 15 mile trip less of a chore, but it will still take an hour and you will use up over half your battery so there's no guarantee you won't do the return trip on the motor.

gghupu
1 week ago

Hi,

I'm looking into building an Ebike with my existing single speed bike with a Bafang 250W Mid Drive Motor.

I was wondering if it is recommended to do so? I understand that mid drive motor prob works the best/the most efficient with gears but from a cost saving perspective, I prefer not have to purchase another bike.

One of the retailers was telling that he does not recommend doing that because I quote: "the amount of lateral force on the motor when starting a high gear lends itself early life bearing failure".

Does anyone know if that make sense?

Thanks for your time!

Manu
1 week ago

Cadence lowest for the plate of more teeth in yamaha, yamaha is 250w vs 350w, 100w less in yamaha and more kilometers with the same battery watts.

you want more cadence in yamaha is to use cassette with more teeth. The yamaha assists from speed zero or second 0, you put higt step on upphill and assitsts from second 0.
250W divided 50km/h=5 w by 1 unit of kilometer hour.
350W divided 50km/h=7w by 1 unit of kilometer hour.350 w engine but reaches 550 w
https://electricbikereview.com/forum/attachments/powers-jpg.17593/?temp_hash=9d92339f47761efdbd4e8d026bb5267d

That comparison could be the equivalent of a speedpedelec as the sduro trekking 45km / h 500W engine unlocked to 75km / h vs 350w unlocked to 75Km/h.
500w divided 50Km/h=10 w by unit of kilometer hour.

Minute 1.10 seconds Minute 1.34 seconds......../.led panel yamaha is green =mode eco /eco+/
Mode PWXE is yellow only in PWXE engine 80netow and 120rpm./BLue led is High and STD.
I see green led
Do not use the cassette in yamaha.Starts on 13 and 11 cassette teeth .....has a plate with more teeth so slow the start.

Alex M
2 weeks ago

He exerted basically the same effort for the 2 ebikes but the {500w DD hub} Stromer was way faster than the {350W mid} Focus. he also mentioned that the Stromer's motor was a lot hotter compared to the Focus. ... So I asked in the comment section on the energy consumed from the battery between the 2 ebikes, since the more energy you use the faster your ebike runs (isn't that obvious?).
This is not simple. You've TAD answered this question yourself: " The Hub drive's disadvantage is that it needs to be moving a little faster before you can take take full advantage of the motor". On incline a hub is operating with lower efficiency than mid-drive, this is true for both geared hubs and DD . As a result, hub uses more energy per mile of incline and getting hot. When you have much more powerful hub than a mid - 500W is 40% more than 350W, this is a lot - it is possible that it it will run faster than mid. Those 2 bikes were different in more than just wattage and type of drive - different curves of efficiency, different controllers, God knows what else.

Though I've revisited this thread to ask something else - in Mike's post: "Bafang is coming out with new levels of performance and tiered levels of better quality, so again, not all Bafangs are equal ".
I know that Bafang makes 3 or 4 hubs of different wattage, from 250W to 750W, and 3 or 4 different mids, from 250W to 1,000W nominal. Different wattage. They had some 250W hubs with different model numbers and slight variations in specs. It could be that they have been toying with higher-wattage mid-drives, changing something there in specs sometimes. Those high-wattage mids are new, still developing and improving, I got that. But "tiered levels quality"? Would really like to know more. Especially if it's related to hubs.

Alex M
2 weeks ago

It's interesting that Kalkhoff decided to bring not just a hub, but a direct drive hub. Low-power direct-drive at that. Z30 stands for (I think) 350W, and Z20 - 250W for European market. Sounds like another extreme case, aimed at low-maintenance bike for a very moderate terrain. Netherlands, perhaps. Direct drives are very durable, compared to geared hubs and mid-drives.

sucka free
3 weeks ago

Hi all

I just received my Dillenger Opia today (see below link for the US version). I was in the market for a folding electric bike and this fit the bill, literally and figuratively. The price was right and figured I'd give it a whirl after entering the ebike foray via the Juiced CrossCurrent Air (500w version). I've decided the CrossCurrent Air was way too heavy to lug around (ie carry, put on a car rack, navigate in a tight bike parking garage) so I'd give this Opia a whirl.

To give context, I test rode an E-Joe epik and Motiv Stash (both 350w) and a velomini plus. I really liked the stash but couldn't justify the price thus I found the Opia.

https://dillengerelectricbikes.com/electric-bikes/folding-electric-bikes/opia-by-dillenger.html

At any rate, I received the Opia this afternoon and opened the box and it was packed protectively. Just enough styrofoam cushioning and wrap around the frame. No instructions were included but it was pretty straightforward to assemble and it took me about 15 minutes to put the skewer on the front wheel, adjust the front brake, install pedals, etc. Oh, about the brakes. They're reversed; left lever controls the rear and the right lever controls the front. I will be switching that out as all my other bikes are the other way around.

I took it for a ride around the block and although it's not as powerful as the CrossCurrent, it has plenty of pep for a 250w motor. It handles pretty well for having 20" wheels and a lower overall (close to the ground) design. It shifts well but will probably upgrade the derailleur in the near future.

There are some changes that I noticed from the bike on the website. First, if you look at the frame in the pics, it doesn't have braze-one for a rear rack or for rear disc brakes. The bike I received has the rear rack braze-ons and disc brake tabs. Oddly the fork does not have disc tabs so if I go that route in the future I'll have to replace the fork. Second, the LED display is different from the website as it is an updated version. (I've read the updated version comes with a rear rack, fenders and updated LED so it's nice that I can upgrade and still be under $1000 for a nice commuter).

At any rate, currently I'm pleased with my purchase as it fulfills most of what I want in a folding ebike. I was just surprised (pleasantly) at what I got versus what I expected.

I'm going to commute on it tomorrow and will give a review on it.

1/6
Manu
3 weeks ago

year 2017
Bicycle + electric kit = illegal for all purposes.

Users with installations 1500w electric kit in carbon frame, early structural fatigue because its design is for human pedaling.No homologation

Pedelec: engine max/top 500W / 25kmh.
Equal circulatory regulation to the bicycle.

(It is an improvement since before it was in 250w).

Douglas Ruby
3 weeks ago

Hello! Can anyone confirm that the Specialized changes the engine to a new served one after 3 years. My trader in Sweden told me that.
If what your dealer meant is that Specialized will change their design to upgrade to a new motor system every 3 or so years, then there is an element of truth. The original Turbo was released in late 2012 with a 250W hub motor. Upgrades were introduced in 2015 with the 200W base Turbo and the Turbo X and the original Turbo (now Turbo S) was upgraded to 500W. The new Vado series replaced all of these in 2017.

So yes, Specialized seems to have made significant motor changes every 3 or so years. This implies that the obsolesence cycle is about 3 years...

There is no "upgrade your motor" support program from Specialized, however.

Douglas Ruby
3 weeks ago

Some time ago, I went to the GoSwissDrive web page. Their data indicated that the 200W motor had a 42 kmh (26.2 mph) cutoff, whereas the 250W and 500W motors has a 45 kmh cutoff. It is possible to nudge 45 kmh (28 mph) by playing with wheel diameter in the diagnostics, but to no great benefit. You can set wheel diameter to the minimum of 2000 mm yourself if you have the upgraded bluetooth battery by using Mission Control. This fools the system into thinking you are going slower than you really are.

Ross_Dr
3 weeks ago

Hi everyone,

A few months back now i bought myself a new e-bike which is a cyclotricity stealth 1000w, so i thought i would do a review of it now that i have had a decent amount of time riding it.

First off i ordered it directly from cyclotricity and the wait time from actual order to delivery was very fast, i made the order for the next day and it was with me the following day. The bike that i ordered was a stealth 1000w 16AH. The bike came restricted to 250w, in order to de-restrict i had to sign a disclaimer sheet and then they emailed me the code to unlock its full power for off road use only. with my order i also included a throttle which i was told would make the off road experience even better.

First impressions were on road doing my 5.6 mile commute to where i work and back every day, the bike was capable of around 16 miles an hour under standard pas and if i pedaled hard enough even more but i was doing this on my own leg power. i found the gearing for the 250w mode to be sufficient, and the brakes were good for stopping when you had to slow down quickly, there were 160mm disc rotors and mechanical calipers. the ride itself was very smooth as the stealth uses hybrid semi slick tires. the front suspension took most of your every day bumps out of the ride and the air cushioned seat helped at the back of the bike.

I took the bike out to one of the tracks i have taken my other bikes to before, these being all mountain and free ride bikes and did some of the forest roads and a little light trail riding on the 1000w mode. once you de-restrict the bike to 1000w its give you a lot of torque and a fair bit of speed too. along flat i was able to get around 30mph and the most i got on a downhill slope was 36.5. The throttle made my life a lot easier going uphill and over rougher parts. The semi slick tires had enough grip in the corners because the tread is grippy enough at the edges. The only notable thing is that the suspension would struggle if you were to go on a track that was too rough for it.

Over the time i have been using it i looked into a couple of new parts, the originals worked fine but i fancied some extra stopping power for off road and an LCD with a remote to make pas changes easier when off road also. i had spoken to Cyclotricity while making these upgrades and they advised the parts i added, they were advised to me on the basis that these parts will be available direct from Cyclotricity in the very near future. The hydraulic brakes, which are Tektro ones, have much more power than the original mechanical one and they are on 7 inch rotors which means they will stay nice and cool at high speeds. the LCD has a remote and a little more information about the motor during use, motor power etc. I found both of these upgrades made a noticeable difference to the bike.

The range of the 16AH battery on 250w with a combination of pas levels was around 35-40 miles depending also on terrain and on 1000w mode if i mostly used throttle off road range was about 16 miles or less. the running gear is also still running great with regular service intervals.

I hope this review is useful should you be looking for a new e bike

Ross

1/9
eagamer80
3 weeks ago

If your dealer told you that, he probably spoke out of knowledge (or he tried to convince you to buy the bike with false promises). As @bazzapage stated, you won't get more power if your bike is already unlocked beyond the European limitation. 26.5 is not bad though. Why do you need more? if so, you will need a more powerful motor (> 250W), so consider yourself buying a Turbo S or the newer Vado 4.0 bikes.

Dewey
4 weeks ago

Battery research promises significant range increases and lower charge times for the same weight or lighter ebike batteries for the same range as present, and tesla’s Giga-factory should bring down the cost per kWh

http://ebiketips.co.uk/content/news/new-battery-technology-promises-to-treble-e-bike-range-581

Motor manufacturers are bringing to market shaft drive and belt driven motors to improve reliability which is important for future Ebike bikeshare - The one being trialed/experimented with in DC starting next week uses a 250w front hub motor but is the type of system most needing that sort of reliability and range improvement.

https://cyclingindustry.news/bafang-debuts-first-motorized-e-shaft-drive-system-for-public-bikes/
https://electricbikereview.com/forum/threads/ebike-bikeshare-comes-to-dc.14555/

Bosch this year introduced ABS for ebikes, as bicycle and motor sports continue to evolve in different directions we will see improvements in pedal bicycle and motorcycle technology bleed over to the ebike market and vice versa e.g. the Dutch last fall introduced a new speed pedelec helmet standard, as materials technology improves and new testing standards adopted we may see future helmets as strong as a DOT helmet but light as a bicycle helmet becoming the norm for faster ebike riders

zap016VOLTAGE
1 month ago

Delfast Replied! :D

I had emailed Delfast asking if they could provide additional information. Below is their reply.

From Delfast (where I could, I've included links):

Frame: Ukraine

Fork Zoom: 680DH Black: http://bike.us.hlcorp.com/product/item-255.html

Suspension: Rear Shock Dnm mm220LAR: http://www.dnmshock.com/products-single.php?id=26

Batteries: 48B 64Ah 13S12P Boston Swing (USA) + Bluetooth Smart BMS: http://www.boston-power.com/

Charger: Charger LIPO 54, or 64V + 12A + Waterproof Gold Connector

Controller: 48V/32A with recupersation and 4 Modes PAS/25kph 250W/32kph/unlimited

Shifter: Shimano 7speed black + RD Shimano Turney 7sp

Motor: GTS1000 6T 205/30

Rims: Sun Rims MTX 39”, 24” 36H Black: https://sun-ringle.com/mtb/rims/mtx-39/

Tires: Urban 24x3

Light: Front: Enduro HGM LED 20W + USB, Rear: Enduro Tail Combo

Signaling: Bluetooth, Keychain, Start/Stop Button, Remote launch, Alarm, Motor Blocking

Thank you Daniel!:)

Kathy Smith
1 month ago

The 250w EBikeBC is $1,000 and weighs just 25lb which is light for an ebike. Court Rye did a video review of the identical but more expensive VeloMini Plus. It has smaller 16" wheels and the back wheel folds under the frame which has a carrying handle, the small 240wh battery is inside the frame so it looks like a normal folding bike, it is a single speed, has a throttle and pedal assist but is geared high and this owners review recommended starting off using the twist throttle then pedalling. Top speed is 14mph, and range is 8 miles on throttle only up to 18 miles pedalling all the time in the lowest level of pedal assist so maybe 10-12 miles combined - battery range is an issue on folding ebikes because of the trade-off between small size batteries to keep weight down, for comparison the BH EasyGo Volt is a 20" normal looking folder with an even smaller battery delivering similar speed/range to the EBikeBC but weighing 39lb. My wife test rode the Tern Vektron last weekend and she liked the adjustable handlebar stem that adjusts for rake, bar angle, and height.
16" wheels are too small for me. I wish the BH EasyGo speed was 20mph.

Dewey
1 month ago

Less than 40lb, folding, 20" wheels, throttle, speed at least 15miles/hr, looks like a normal bike, nice to have belt drive.

The 250w EBikeBC is $1,000 and weighs just 25lb which is light for an ebike. Court Rye did a video review of the identical but more expensive VeloMini Plus. It has smaller 16" wheels and the back wheel folds under the frame which has a carrying handle, the small 240wh battery is inside the frame so it looks like a normal folding bike, it is a single speed, has a throttle and pedal assist but is geared high and this owners review recommended starting off using the twist throttle then pedalling. Top speed is 14mph, and range is 8 miles on throttle only up to 18 miles pedalling all the time in the lowest level of pedal assist so maybe 10-12 miles combined - battery range is an issue on folding ebikes because of the trade-off between small size batteries to keep weight down, for comparison the BH EasyGo Volt is a 20" normal looking folder with an even smaller battery delivering similar speed/range to the EBikeBC but weighing 39lb. My wife test rode the Tern Vektron last weekend and she liked the adjustable handlebar stem that adjusts for rake, bar angle, and height.

ebikest
1 month ago

Your controller paired to a 500w or 750w motor, the wattage on the motor doesn't really mean all that much. Since this controller pumps out 10a continuous and 20a peak paired with the 48v battery than it is your bike is putting out between 480-960 watts (peak). The controller and battery really determine the power you're going to get. Battery volts x controller amps = true wattage. These bafang rear hubs from 250w-750w can really take some over

Kathy Smith
1 month ago

I've been mulling over a Tern Vektron myself which doesn't meet a lot of your criteria but seems from the specs to be a better equipped bike. I've also checked out similar bikes as you aswell and would be interested to see what bike you finally end up with since I still haven't fully decided myself. I've checked out the luna mini and I like it even if it does have the "racier" look but like you reported not being able to put fenders on it stinks! I've also checked into the Evelo Quest but I got to say I was completely turned off by their website. I'm use to websites giving a bit too much information about a bike but for the life of me I could hardly find any specifications about the Quest on their website. It doesn't even tell you the most basic of facts like the wheel size! I own a Brompton which I'm completely spoiled by it's fold size and weight even though it at 25lbs is still a chunky monkey. I too wish to find something a bit bigger and built well.
The specs are on the bottom of the page, you need to click Specs Details and you get this:

Motor
Bafang 250W Brushless Rear Hub Motor, Variable Pedal Assist and Throttle Control

Battery
Samsung 36V 10.2Ah with micro USB Charge Port

Charger
36V 2A Charger

Maximum Motor-Assisted Speed
20 Miles Per Hour

Range
Estimated 40 Miles on Pedal-Assist

Electric Assist
Multiple levels, plus electric-only (via throttle)

Frame
Lightweight Aircraft Grade Aluminum Frame

Fork
Chromoly Fork, Fender-Compatible

Wheel
20” Alloy Rims

Brakes
Tektro Disc Brakes, 160mm Rotors

Seat Post
33.9mm 575mm Length

Stem
Quick Folding Stem

Drivetrain
Gates, 70T, 20T Rear Cog, Gates Carbon Belt Drive

Pedals
Wellgo 9/16” Folding

Display Panel
Multi-color 3.2” IPS Screen, 14 Function Display

Add-ons
Front and Rear Fenders, Front and Rear Lights Hard-Wired to Battery, Rear Cargo Rack, Bell, Kickstand

Bicycle Weight
38 lbs with Integrated Battery

Mark Peralta
1 month ago

Is this really an issue? I don't hear about hub motors (and there are a s*it ton of them out there) failing because of poor heat dissipation.
I saw one before but this one is way over stressed.
Quote...
" Mike,
Define 'reliable'.
If you mindlessly flog you bike with a mid drive (or a geared hub motor) up steep hills at full power for a prolonged time, the motor will get hot and the Nylon gears eventually fail.

I've experianced 'melted planetary gears' in my Bafang geared hub motors, but was running them at four to six times of their rated power. All in the name of science, of course!
For instance, here is the result of running a '250W' Bafang SWXH for too long at 1200W with a 35A controller and 48V batterie:

It that case, it would be kind of stupid to blame Bafang. The motor did fine with a 17A controller and 36-48V batterie for more than 6,000km, but 'suddenly' (out of the blue I might say) decided to fail after abusing it for nearly 1,500km with a 35A controller.

When I was 'stress testing' my new Bafang BPM, it did fine with a 54V batterie and 45A controller for 3,500km (thats about 2,5kW peak power). When 'testing' a 72V batterie (at about 3.5kW peak), the planetary gears started to desintegrate after only 5km. Surly, thats a gross quality problem Bafang has to fix in their '500W' motors! " end quote.
Source: https://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?t=134229

RoCk Y
4 weeks ago

Where to buy it

ElectricBikeReview.com
3 weeks ago

I think they might have gone out of business, you used to be able to go to http://www.add-e.us/ but it doesn't seem to be loading now?

Hernan1205 Paz Zapata
2 months ago

cuanto cuesta el accesorio y en donde lo puedo conseguir

1975supermike
4 months ago

how expensive ! Jesus.

Jai's Media
4 months ago

Gearless direct drive !> Erm the wheel is the gear with friction drive not 'Direct drive' get it right or why bother do a review!
Have you mentioned the power waste through compressing the tyre when engaged ?

Rıfat Erdem Sahin
5 months ago

Great video will it work on foldable bikes and on hills?

Matt Walls
5 months ago

pretty pricey considering the quality is meh!

Freeflight Paragliding
6 months ago

Thank you, well explained and presented video.

Peter Kenyon
9 months ago

Because it spins in contact with the tyre, how much wear is there on the tyre? I remember similar products twenty plus years ago and the rate it wore the tyre was incredible. Wasn't worth the expense.

Don
9 months ago

+Peter Kenyon . You are absolutely right. Regarding this particular product, our experience shows need of one road Tyre (Michelin 700x28) every 51 km, meaning 0.46 € per Km. If the motor follows... Because it is terribly fragile.

james hester
10 months ago

Anyone know of the most inexpensive solution for a e bike add on? Don't care about looks or weight just need power and range.

mike x
10 months ago

250volts may work well for 250w-500w motors so you could use 1amps continuous discharge current on low 2.5 or 5ah capacity battery packs which would keep discharge current on cells low

Rick Kern
11 months ago

This could be excellent as just booster power for getting up hills. Most people cruise just fine.

Don
9 months ago

+Rick Kern . Come on Rick, as an add-e's pawn, you perfectly know that it can't climb a hill. It heats up and gets damaged. It's even written in page 30 of it's manual § 8. So on the way up the hill one should stop and check the temperature of the motor by hand... Stop fooling people you guys, there is an end to every deception.

Eric Piepers
12 months ago

Your hand reminds me of Spiderman.., but nothing comes out of yours.. :-D

Jimmy Walker
12 months ago

What is it like on wet roads

Bharath Naik L
1 year ago

Hi, What is the speed that I get if I add 250w motor to my fat tyre cycle ? Which one is good for fatbike ? 250w or 500w or 1000w ?

subhash nayak
1 year ago

can i use it in my Hercules A500

SilverPower
1 year ago

trop de bruit

Adventures with Jerry
1 year ago

what about weather resistance. i live in Michigan we get lots of rain and snow how is this going to hold up to that.

cold productions
1 year ago

Can I use it on a beach cruiser ?

Rocky
1 year ago

+Pavle Pavlovic Well observed. I 100% agree with your coherent comment. It is true that this product is a real CRAP in every aspect. Considering changing the tier every 30-35 miles, and the battery (300 $) every 6 month and what you have to pay meanwhile to the vendor for repairing because it is a poor quality material and not secured, makes that buying a real and serious electric bike will certainly save you a lot in wallet, nerves and Asprin expenses.
PD: Probably Add-e will soon report your comment as spam, like other similar ones we don't see anymore. :-)

Don
1 year ago

Is there anyone who knows where to find an official technical specification sheet for this thing, like in every toy, drill, fan box or whatever electrical?
A copy of certification, registration (company and product), governmental security approval, declaration of conformity?
Because when I ask Add-e on their channels, they don't reply and delete my requests!
Thanks

Don
1 year ago

+ElectricBikeReview.com
Thank you very much, I'll indeed ask ELV Motors.
PS: It is uncomfortable not to find any trace of this product in European registration institutions, when they pretend it's made in Austria.

ElectricBikeReview.com
1 year ago

Hmm... I don't know? You could reach out to ELV Motors in Santa Clara California. They carry the Add-E and might be able to provide the details you're looking for :)