Add-E 250W Kit Review

Add E 250w Electric Bike Kit Review
Add E 250w Kit Installed
Add E 250w Kit Removable Bottle Battery 22 Volt 6 Amp
Add E 250w Kit Gearless Motor Unit
Add E 250w Kit Clean Handle Bars
Add E 250w Kit Belt Drive Compatible
Add E 250w Kit Kickstand Mount
Add E 250w Kit Grip Tape Friction Surface
Add E 250w Kit Side View
Add E 250w Kit Top Down View
Add E 250w Kit Width View
Add E 250w Kit Retail Box
Add E 250w Kit Unboxing
Add E 250w Electric Bike Kit Review
Add E 250w Kit Installed
Add E 250w Kit Removable Bottle Battery 22 Volt 6 Amp
Add E 250w Kit Gearless Motor Unit
Add E 250w Kit Clean Handle Bars
Add E 250w Kit Belt Drive Compatible
Add E 250w Kit Kickstand Mount
Add E 250w Kit Grip Tape Friction Surface
Add E 250w Kit Side View
Add E 250w Kit Top Down View
Add E 250w Kit Width View
Add E 250w Kit Retail Box
Add E 250w Kit Unboxing

Summary

  • Exceedingly compact, light weight and easy to remove (for temporary unpowered use) though it does produce more noise than most of the ebike kits I've tested
  • The bottle style battery pack is beautiful, the cap twists to add power at 50 watt increments up to 250 making it legal internationally, limited top speed of 15.5 mph
  • Lots of optional accessories including a twist or trigger throttle, the included five magnet pedelec disc isn't super responsive but works well and qualifies as Class 1
  • Compatible with a wide range of bicycle types but may require extra work to install (completely removing the bottom bracket), solid six month battery warranty

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Video Review

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Introduction

Make:

Add-E

Model:

250W

Price:

$1,012

Suggested Use:

Neighborhood, Urban

Electric Bike Class:

Pedal Assist (Class 1), Throttle on Demand (Class 2)
Learn more about Ebike classes

Warranty:

6 Month Battery, 2 Year Mechanical Parts

Availability:

United States, Worldwide

Model Year:

20152016

Bicycle Details

Battery Weight:

2.5 lbs (1.13 kg)

Motor Weight:

1.9 lbs (0.86 kg)

Geometry Measurements:

Motor Dimensions: 80 mm x 70 mm x 70 mm

Accessories:

EasyDo Bottle Cage for Battery, Additional Charger $80, Additional Battery $296, Universal Bottle Cage Mount $23, Crank Puller Tool $23, Brompton Specific Mounting Kit $182

Other:

Compact 2 Amp Charger, Removable Battery Pack

Electronic Details

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Gearless Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

250 watts

Battery Voltage:

22.2 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

6 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

133.2 wh

Charge Time:

2 hours

Estimated Min Range:

8 miles (13 km)

Estimated Max Range:

16 miles (26 km)

Drive Mode:

Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist, Twist Throttle, Trigger Throttle (5 Magnet Pedelec Disc)

Top Speed:

15.5 mph (25 kph)

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Written Review

The Add-E 250W is a perfect electric bike kit for someone like me because it’s light weight, minimal and supports more active ride styles. It’s also probably the only choice for a lot of people who live in Europe due to legal restrictions of 25 kilometers per hour (15.5 mph) and power rating of 250 watts or less. Top speed is definitely one of my complaints compared to other kits available in the US that can reach 20 or even 28 miles per hour but this is still a satisfying kit. It’s noisier than a lot of other ebikes because the motor in’t contained within a hub and is spinning at a relatively higher RPM. You’ll notice the high pitched electronic whir in the video review above. Still, it’s something I got used to with a bit of time and the other elements of the design (namely size) make it very stealthy, nearly hidden on the frame! Weighing in at ~5.5 lbs including the motor, battery and mounting hardware this kit is light… and it’s mostly removable. The battery bottle can be taken off (and replaced with a real water bottle if you’d like) and the motor slides forward and off with a quick bolt adjustment (using a hex wrench). All of the weight that is present is kept very low and centered on the frame for improved balance and if you plan on riding further and have space for a second battery bottle on the downtube (assuming you used the seat tube for the first one) that will cost you ~$300 extra. Batteries get a basic six month warranty but all hardware gets two years which is awesome!

To me the Add-E makes a lot of sense when used on city style bikes, and maybe road bikes as well, but it’s not idea for full suspension setups because it may not reach the rear wheel at all times. A hardtail trail bike could be a good fit but might produce even more noise due to the knobs and require more frequent adjustment as the tread wears down over time. I love that it’s a seemingly affordable kit but want to point out that you get ~30% of the battery I would consider “average” in the US and may experience much shorter rides as a result (especially if you opt for the twist or trigger throttles). If you do get a throttle, you’ll be transitioning the bike from Class 1 to Class 2 and it may not be allowed at all in some countries. Add-E makes a 600 watt kit that I’m excited to check out and it’s not that much more expensive. I think my favorite part about the way it’s designed is that the motor friction surface does not come into contact with the tire when coasting (if installed correctly). It just hangs out sort of bouncing up and down as you traverse cracks, curbs and other obstacles and this means coasting is not impacted. It’s a super-efficient design, it’s beautiful but it’s also a bit loud and the 250 watt version especially may be underpowered and limited on range for some riders.

Pros:

  • The bottle style battery is extremely convincing and I love the way it operates (twist the cap to the right for 50 volt increments of additional power from 0 to 50 to 100 up to 250 total)
  • It’s great that this kit can work as pedal assist only or you can opt for twist and trigger throttle options, basically going from Class 1 to Class 2 depending on your needs (throttle mode will likely drain the battery faster if you choose not to pedal as actively)
  • The kit is extremely light weight (~5.5 lbs for all pieces combined) and minimal in appearance, the basic pedal-assist only setup has only one wire and keeps the handlebar area of your bike clean, if you add a throttle you’ll have one wire going from the battery area to your bars
  • Once the mounting plate has been installed, it’s pretty easy to remove the Add-E motor by loosening one bolt and unplugging the power… then simply take the bottle battery off and you’re back to a normal bike
  • The bottle cage battery adapter can be used with traditional water bottles (if you take the battery and Add-E off) but it doesn’t sit perfectly flat at the bottom due to the plug interface
  • You can get additional batteries for ~$300 to increase range and since they fit into normal bottle cages you could potentially have two mounted to the bike if you have bosses on the downtube and seat tube, each pack only weighs ~2.5 pounds which is nice
  • Because the motor and battery are mounted at the middle of the frame you get excellent balance and reduce unsprung weight compared with a hub motor… that said, I don’t think it would work well with a full suspension bike due to wheel movement and limited travel of the Add-E

Cons:

  • There are no display readouts so you can’t tell how full the battery pack is, how fast you’re going, how far you’ve traveled or anything else… you have to estimate or get a separate cycle computer but that still won’t display your battery
  • The battery capacity offered by this kit is extremely small compared to most kits and bikes I review (about 30% of average) so the range is lower, but it’s also much lighter than traditional offerings
  • You absolutely need space to mount the bottle cage but Add-E does sell an adapter kit for those without threaded bosses on their seat tube or downtube
  • Limited power and top speed on the 250 watt kit, it’s setup for European standards so you get ~15.5 mph top speed vs. 20 mph which is more common in the US, their 600 watt kit can top 20 mph and doesn’t cost much more
  • Depending on the frame design of your bicycle this kit may be easy to install (using a kickstand plate just behind the bottom bracket) or difficult (mounting Carbon fiber plates directly to the bottom bracket)
  • The five magnet pedelec disc isn’t as responsive as a 12 magnet disc and you don’t get brake levers with integrated motor inhibitors so there are moments where you may be braking against the motor
  • If you mount this kit using the kickstand plate you may no longer be able to use the actual kickstand and your bike may tip… consider an aftermarket chain-stay mounting kickstand
  • This kit is actually kind of expensive in my opinion given the very small capacity of the battery pack (about 30% as large as a “normal” sized battery of ~350 watt hours) if you bought two additional batteries you’d be priced at kits with 350+ watts of power vs. 250 but still much lighter weight

Resources:

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More Add-E Reviews

Add-E 600W Kit Review

  • MSRP: $1,251
  • MODEL YEAR: 2015, 2016

Exceedingly compact, light weight and easy to remove (for temporary unpowered use) though it does produce more noise than most of the ebike kits I've tested. The bottle style battery pack is beautiful, the cap twists to add power at 50…...

Nirmala
1 year ago

I'm curious about the surface material of the friction drive. Is it replaceable? Do you think it might cause a lot of extra tire wear?

Court Rye
1 year ago

I'm wondering the same things Nirmala... but even without the grippy surface metal on rubber would still work alright (maybe unless it's wet out?) difficult to say on the tire wear... I'd imagine that YES it would wear your tread down more quickly than a hub motor. It might depend on your tread pattern like knobby off-road vs. slick or hybrid tires. The system might also become louder on a knobby tire vs. the smoother ones used in this review :/

NerdBrick
8 months ago

I was one of the original funders of the Add-e campaign, and I have over 600 miles with my commuting on partial paved road and some hard packed gravel. It hasn't really worn my tire any faster, but I should point out that I'm running a tire that is labeled "E-Bike" it has has a tread that good for my ridding conditions. The friction material on the motor is still holding up. I was worried it would be rubbed off sooner than the tire would wear. So far so good with both.

Greg Ritter
1 year ago

Thanks for the well done review. Was waiting for this review as I've been watching the news of the bike motor since its launch and like the look and idea behind the motor. But with what I've been learning about e bikes from reviews and info from this site, maybe this isn't the way to go for an affordable, almost hidden ebike kit. I was looking for something with a little more power and some controls to adjust speed and keep track of battery life and distance. Plus the price is higher than I was thinking for what you get. Will continue to watch this site for further reviews, perhaps the go-e bike kit, with 800 W capacity and lower price point will have more success and be more of what I'm looking for. Will patiently stay tuned to electric bike review to keep informed.

Court Rye
1 year ago

Hi Greg! Yeah, I love the direction that the Add-E is exploring but it has limits with this iteration. I've been in touch with Go-E and hope to review their product at some point soon so keep an eye out and I'll continue charging forward :D

Nirmala
1 year ago

A lot of the concerns raised in the review seem to be better addressed by the ShareRoller, another add-on friction drive. It is not as stealth as the Go-E, but it does have much more sophistication and features, and also three sizes of battery to accommodate different needs. You can learn more here: http://igg.me/at/shareroller/x/12713097

Court also did a review of an earlier version here: https://electricbikereview.com/shareroller/version-1/ (Note that the latest version includes a lot of improvements.)

David Barroso
1 year ago

I have the 600W (sport) version and it is great to take me to work and back. I do 15km (9.3mi) every day with some climbing (200m accumulated climb) with the power output set to maximum. The add-e takes me up to around 40km/h (24.8mph) with little effort. I do the same time by car, some times more, depending on traffic. I have a hardtail scott aspect with schwalbe big ben tyres.

Court Rye
1 year ago

Wow, that sounds awesome David! Pretty stellar performance for such a small battery pack. I'm assuming you use pedal assist only vs. throttle? Any other tips about getting the most out of the Add-E, noticed you're using smooth tires vs. knobby.

David Barroso
1 year ago

Only pedal assist. I have another set of wheels with schwalbe thunder burt (knobby tyres) for off-road use. Tyres with smooth surface work better with the add-e. They have a bigger and better surface and therefore better grip between the metal surface of the motor and the tyre. And also less noise. The add-e when working sounds like an RC toy car :)

Court Rye
1 year ago

Cool, thanks David... I reached out to the company and was told that these Schwalbe Hurricane tires work well for off-road because the center is smooth but they are still wider and have some knobs on the edges for traction.

Michael Craigie
9 months ago

David, I installed the 600w set on my bike yesterday and went for a 15km ride on Map 1. Fairly flat ride with only one 2 short but steep hills. In the course of the ride it wore my brand new Continental Gatorskin tyre right down till the threads are exposed at one point. Do you have any tyre wear issues? Have I perhaps installed it incorrectly do you think?

Court Rye
9 months ago

Wow! That's intense Michael... I didn't ride very far during my demos for this review + video but the tires held up alright and they were just basic. Continental makes good stuff so I'm really surprised you've had such deep wear. I want to provide some sort of feedback like maybe the motor is too close to the tire but honestly, the design is built to "dig in" to get traction so even if it's further vs. close you should still have similar force going from the motor to the tire... I really don't know but am hoping David can chime in and help.

Geir
1 year ago

Love your reviews Court. I have the 600W one too, but its way to noisy so im not going to use it. If you drop your address I'll be happy to donate it to you so you can do a review (I guess you already have a battery and the stand installed?)

Court Rye
1 year ago

That's an awesome offer Geir! I'll reach out :D

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emco5
3 days ago

Regarding the thread posted below titled “worst ebike company ever”, isn’t is interesting that one bad apple tries to spoil the entire barrel. In my opinion, a gripe without the full story is just a rant with no credibility.

Last July, I had the opportunity to visit Clean Republic. It’s located in a small business complex a few miles south of the Seattle downtown core where all the high-rise buildings are. Out in their parking lot corralled under cover were a few electric-hub bikes, apparently some of the employee personal transport. Inside, there were displays of the various batteries and hub motors, and four employees active in their jobs doing wheel lacing and other tasks. Around the shop were built-up ready-to-ship wheels, a few modified bicycles, and items awaiting local pickup. I spoke with two shop people who were quite enthusiastic about their power-assist systems. All the questions I asked got real world answers, no tinsel sales baloney common to some retailers. Their recently introduced 350 watt hub got my attention. I asked about it and was offered a ride on the shop's 350w test bike, which I accepted. Compared to 250w geared hubs, the 350w was a hot-rod which pulled strongly on hills during my ride. It was impressive enough that I bought it, and it has functioned flawlessly for nearly nine months of almost daily in-city errands and weekend wandering.
..................

News:
Clean Republic has a new “Horizon” 350-watt geared-hub system that now has a frame-mounted, metered, and lockable battery. That's a worthwhile upgrade over the fabric bag previously offered and make a good kit even better. The new battery is a Panasonic nickel-manganese-cobalt [NMC, like Tesla uses] and it weighs 3 lb. less than the bagged battery on last year’s model. They also give it a higher capacity rating.

I have no connection in any way with this business other than just a pleasant purchase and ownership experience.

emco5
4 days ago

....Bafang uses a cadence sensor to determine assist levels, so it's not as natural feeling as a torque sensor found on Bosch-like systems....I've had both and am currently using the bafang system...

Please, would you elaborate a bit on the two riding experiences and your reasons for choosing the Bafang mid. From what I've been reading around the net, the Bosch/Shimano 250w OEM systems might get you up the same hills but at a slower speed [and likely with more effort].

emco5
2 weeks ago

Thank you, HarryS, for the input. I've owned four power-assisted bikes in the last ten years from 250w to 500w, so I get it. Looking for rider experience comparing the 350w hub against the Shimano STEPS. The smaller STEPS system has a torque rating of 50 Nm while the Bafang hub makes a bit less at 45 Nm. If Shimano's chosen gearing doesn't interfere, and their mapping is dialed, it could be a better climber. I suspect, though, that the Steps torque number is reached only at peak rider input which would not reduce rider fatigue. Although I've not seen the Bafang's power curve, my rides on one felt like its torque peaked almost immediately.

emco5
2 weeks ago

I’ve received theory and recommendations on this subject, but I’d appreciate feedback from someone who has 'actually experienced' both power systems. Your hands-on opinion is good enough, no need to argue variables and the grey areas. :) Speed doesn't matter, either.

Bike-A has a Bafang 36v 350-watt geared hub with thumb-throttle, and its granny gearing is the common 28t chainring with 32t rear cog.

Bike-B has the 36v 250-watt Shimano STEPS mid-drive PAS system with manual shifting. Its granny gearing is 44t chainring with a 32t cog in back.

Both bikes have identical geometry, weigh the same, and have the same tires.

Ridden by the same person up a 9% hill for 1/2 mile, which bike would get to the top with less rider effort?

bazzapage
2 weeks ago

Good buying @Embra - I am sure you will be pleased. I reckon a better bike at $3k run-out pricing than the entry-level new model. The 250W motor is a good one, quite a bit nicer than the base Turbo.

harryS
2 weeks ago

Around January, I got interested in a folding e-bike and looked at some inexpensive models on amazon for around $600. Perhaps I should have bought one, but I decided to kit one up, using the Downtube Nova. This was $279 shipped. 7 speeds. About 24 pounds.

I ordered a Q100H 350W motor from China in January. That was $140 shipped. I could have had it for $250 shipped with a 20" wheel, but I chose to buy a 20" rim and spoke it at home. The wheel parts cost me $60. Took me two evenings total to do the spokes. I did it wrong the first night. Rode it around for a week. Tore it apart and did it again.

I used a 250W controller I bought on ebay a year ago for $25 with a PAS sensor. Also had a $10 thumb throttle, and some extra e-brake levers. Those would be about $20. So total for electronics was $55, call it $60.

Today. Bike is still in progress. I added a $12 rack, cut down to fit 20" wheels. The controller is under the rack. A 36V battery is in the bag ($3) . I will spray paint the silver controller black.

About the battery. I own a number of small batteries. Shown is a Luna 52V mini (350 watt-hr), two 36V weedwhacker batteries from my chain saw and weed cutter (80 and 180 watt-hr), and a custom 36V (300 watt-hr) battery.

Per a suggestion from forum member GeorgeS, I asked Shawn McCarty about a 30 cell 10S-3P custom battery. He gave me a nice price and that's the custom battery you see.

I can get bigger seat bags, maybe, but only Shawn's battery fits into my bag. This is before I shrink wrapped it.

With the current controller and 36V, the folder will do about 18 mph max. With a similar controller and 48V and 52V, I've seen 20 and 22 mph. The motor takes only about 6-8 watt-hr/mile at 14 mph, so I expect over 25 miles with the custom battery. Plus the bike is light enough that it pedals like a regular bike.

I think 18 mph is good enough for this little guy. The motor adds 4.8 pounds, and the battery is 3.3 pounds. I added that much to my belly this winter doing nothing, so I better get riding again.

I am around $750, more than what an Ancheer would cost on Amazon. The Nova frame is a nice bike for the price though, and probably a lot lighter.

There's a second folding bike for my wife coming. It has full suspension. Will be heavier. I'll use one of the existing batteries for it.

1/4
Fdiblasi
2 weeks ago

Hi Ann,

Here you can find the details of the tricycle:
https://jorviktricycles.com/product/jorvik-20-aluminium-electric-trike-adults-childs-tricycle-250w-36v-e-trike/

And this is an image of the piece that is currently broken. It has the info on voltage.

I cannot get a picture of the cables but if you don't manage to find the model I will upload it asap to this post.

Thank you very much!

1/1
Larry Ganz
3 weeks ago

So now I'm officially off-topic, sorry. I didn't take the XM700+.

By the time I was going to add a 500WH battery, knobby tires, and Rock Shox Paragon Gold forks I'd be up there in price between a Powerfully 7 and 8FS+. The bike shop didn't put up any resistance regarding letting me change my deposit from the XM700+ to either a Dual Sport+ (in stock) or Powerfly 7 (must order). They're just putting the XM700+ on the sales floor to sell. My two concerns between the two new choices are riding position and standover height.

Of the two choices I've given myself, I'd still prefer one with a Bosche drivetrain (which can be hacked) that has 75NM torque vs 50NM of the Shimano steps drivetrain. I also like that Bosche can charge my phone with my USB adapter, and has a more responsive motor. But after them fetching me an XM700+ and then finding out it's not the right bike for me, I don't want to ask them to order another one until I've ruled out the DualSport+ that they have on hand.

In order to help me rule out/in the Dual Sport+ they let me try out the 17.5" bike on the streets around the shop, and it's certainly adequate, but the riding position is more aggressive than the XM700+ (or the Powerfly 7 based on specs on paper). While riding I'm bent over at a sharper angle so that it's harder to breath with only one working lung and a large tidal volume to compensate for that.

The Powerfly 7 specs for the same size bike looks like I'd be in a more upright riding position without being crowded between the seat and bars. However, the standover on the Dual Sport+ or 8FS+ is a nice and short 75mm vs the Powerfly 7 at 79mm. So the PF7 standover is only 1cm lower than the XM700+ (every little bit counts). The shop says the DualSport+ would have less rolling resistance with the narrower 700x38 tires vs the 29x2.3" tires on the PF7, but they have a vested interest in making me choose the DS+. More rolling resistance can be made up with the more powerful motor, at the expense of slightly less range.

Anyway, to see if the Dual Sport+ was strong enough to get me up the hill to our house, they let us take it home on a two day drive-test till Monday. We paid for an picked up my wife's Neko+ while we were at the bike shop, so we could ride together. With the 250W/50NM Shimano Steps drivetrain we were able to do the 6.79 mile round trip with 1140 foot climb up from the shopping center to my house and back down (per my Apple watch).

I had to use a mix of ECO, NORM, and HIGH power, and I definitely had to use HIGH more often than my wife did, who is very good shape. It would be nice to know if we take a new route that the Bosche would have some extra oomph to keep me out of trouble, but I could make it with this one. However, going downhill puts a lot of pressure on my wrists and made my hands tingle after 10 minutes, although it did the same to my wife on her Neko+.

So, we're going to ride more on Sunday, but my wife is pushing for me to just get the DualSport+ and my son is pushing me to get the Powerfly 7 with fatter tires and moar power, because I think he wants to inherit the bike if I die soon.

1/1
bazzapage
3 weeks ago

@Douglas Ruby has offered good advice. Having had both motors in my base Turbo, the S motor (250W) is that much nicer ~20% more powerful and the difference is quite noticeable. My 468Wh battery was made in 2014 anyway which is probably the case for all new 2016 base Turbos. If you can get the LBS to do the battery health diagnostic, and go for the S if it's OK (or be prepared to shell out $999 for a new 17Ah battery (which is no bad thing, I'm about to do exactly that for my bike).

IMHO if it is entering into your consideration I wouldn't worry too much about the rest of the components apart from brakes, they are just more expensive without a huge benefit. It's not a light-weight XC mountain bike where the grams count...

Oh, and the 2014 S looks really nice in red compared to the somewhat 'understated' base turbo.

Douglas Ruby
3 weeks ago

The primary issue is the condition of the battery and motor. The 2014 Turbo S has a 504 Wh (14 Ah) battery while the 2015/16 Turbo has a 468 Wh (13 Ah) battery. Neither has the the bluetooth connection. The Turbo S has a 250W motor (same as 2016 Turbo X). Either should be able to be upgraded using the newer 691 Wh bluetooth capable battery. This is a substantial issue wrt. warranty, however. If the base Turbo battery fails, it will be covered under warranty. When mine did, I was able to upgrade to the SBC-05 (691 Wh bluetooth) battery for the price difference ($200). If you can get someone to run the LBS diagnostic on the 2014 Turbo S to check battery life indication, it would be a good idea.

The frames are (for all intents) identical. The 2014 Turbo S has somewhat upgraded mechanicals with SRAM X0 instead of X7, 11-36 cassette instead of 11-32, and Formula R1 instead of C1. However, I would maintain that functionally, with an upgrade to a 10-speed 11-36 SRAM cassette and some organic brake pads like Kool-Stop, the base Turbo should be just as good as the Turbo S. The 2016 Turbo S, OTOH, has MUCH better mechanicals than the 2014 Turbo S with Shimano brakes and Deore XT 11 speed mech. I did the Shimano XT 11-speed mod to my base Turbo as well.

Were I in your shoes, given that I already have a base Turbo with the uprated battery and Shimano mech, I would get the 2014 Turbo S and then swap components I already have (shifters, battery, fenders, etc.) over to the Turbo S as well as install new brake pads. I would clean up and put the SRAM and older battery on my base Turbo and restore it it to near factory condition. I would have my dealer do a diagnostic on it and provide the report when I resell the bike. In your situation, it all depends on how much local support you expect from your LBS and what confidence you have in the battery.

Larry Ganz
3 weeks ago

Well, I have a dilemma, from issues on multiple fronts, and need help with a decision. Mostly about bike size, but a little about whether I picked the wrong bike style just to get the more powerful Bosche 350W vs 250W motor (while trying to figure out how the 250W gets 75NM torque vs only 63 from the 350W motor).

The bike came in and is at the bike shop. It would have been ready this weekend but Trek shipped it without a key to remove the battery. So the Trek representative has to come to the shop early next week (Mon/Tues) to re-key the battery lock. He is willing to give me the lock core and keys from his Trek Powerfly so that I don't have to wait too long to get new ones. I have no idea how he plans to remove the current lock core when the battery is locked onto the bike (it shipped assembled, wheels and all, except for the handle bars not installed).

Unfortunately, in the meantime this 50mm bike is very tall for me, and it's the smallest XM700+ they make. Just standing over the top tube is a "nut crusher". I'm 5-9 (215 lb) with a 30" inseam for my pants (31" pants tend to drag the ground a little) and the standover is about 80mm, which is 31.5". I've only owned mountain bikes for the past 25 years and a tall road bike is new to me. When straddling the top tube I can only lift the bike front tire up 1/4 to 1/2" before my nuts are in my throat and it won't go higher, and the dealer says this is normal.

Not only is the top tube a nut crusher, but with the proper seat height to reach the pedals with full leg extension I can only get one foot down on the ball of the foot if I don't come off the seat. If I don't slide off the seat I feel like I'll fall over, and again the dealer says this is normal.

If I slide forward off the seat to straddle the top tube (not recommended as per above) then I barely have any room between the seat and handle bars to maneuver the bike at a walking pace. This is because the bike with swept back bars may be too short in length for me (yet too tall at the same time). The shop wants me to try it with a 90x100 stem at 15-17 degrees to move the bar up and forward so I still have a relaxed riding position and weight off my wrists.

Next, the suspension travel seems much shorter than 35mm (about half that), and I wanted to be able to ride a few trails with my wife on her Neko+ and I'm worried that the street tires and short travel will be a problem. That's why I considered the Paragon Gold forks that Jeff is rocking, and maybe losing the street tires and fenders for larger and more aggressive knobby tires. But without fenders I'd still only be able to go up to a 42 or 45 tire to fit inside the fork and rails (it has 40c on the bike now).

Additionally, I'm being told that some bikes are too fast to be allowed onto some trails, and that the XM700+ could get me into trouble here in Colorado. I'm sold on only the Bosche system (no Shimano please), and wanted the 350W motor on the XM700+ as I'm 215 lbs with one working lung at 6000+ feet, and need to be able to climb 800 feet over 2.7 miles to get back to my house, with a grade that varies from 2% to 10% (avg 6%). I had no idea at the time the Powerfly Bosche CX motor had 20% more torque. My understanding is that more torque will get me moving more quickly (grunt), and more power will keep me moving more easily (speed), and I need climbing power and distance more than speed.

After a short test ride (1 mile) my Intuvia display says I'll get 53 miles on ECO, 27 miles on TOUR, 23 miles on SPORT, and 19 miles on TURBO mode. My wife's Neko+ display right now says she'll get 58 miles in ECO, 48 in NORM, and 43 in SPORT on a single charge. That's a lot more range than mine, unless I don't use anything higher than ECO mode. I really want closer to 30 miles minimum for some of the rides that we'll do, and I was going to add the 500WH battery to get me there. The 500WH already comes on the Powerfly 7/8FS+ and it will hit my goal of 30 miles in SPORT mode (level 3/4) vs 23 for the XM700+. And I'm told it will do 43 miles in TOUR (level 2/4) vs 27 for XM700+.

It was only today that I saw that the Powerfly 7/8FS+ has more torque (75 NM vs 63NM) despite only 250W, and just gives less top speed and more range in return. I won't be commuting with my bike on the streets (except to go down to the shopping center at the bottom of Cheyenne Mountain). Rather, we'll be riding on both paved and gravel bike paths most of the time, plus a few trails that can be fairly bumpy and loose. I picked the XM700+ more for the 350W power than it's 28MPH top speed. I won't be going faster than 20 if I want my wife to keep up and not make me suffer later for leaving her in my dust, but I need the 63-75 NM of torque from the Bosche over the 50NM from the Shimano drive on the Dual Sport+ and Neko+.

If I upgrade my suspension and tires, and maybe order a 500WH battery pack, I'll be closer to the price of the Powerfully 7 or 8S. With those I'll only need a handlebar stem riser (and maybe new bars) to get to a less aggressive riding position with less weight on my hands. I've only made a deposit on the bike, and I don't pay the balance until I take delivery (after they get the battery lock core and keys replaced).

Basically my concerns in a nut shell are:
(1) is it too tall ?
(2) is it not long enough ?
(3) is 400WH not enough juice for distance on the 350W motor ?
(4) is the 75NM/250 watt motor with 500WH battery and 20MPH top speed a better choice for me wanting increased ride range and climbing hills (vs 63NM/350W/400WH)?
(5) On the Trek website it says top speed for power assist on the Powerfly 7/8FS+ is 20MPH in one spot, and 15MPH in another spot. So which is it?
(6) is the XM700+ speed-pedelec too fast to legally take on many off-road mountain bike trails, and how badly will the front mono-shock hold it back on slower off-road rides?

ADVICE PLEASE: Should I just take a step back and have them order a Powerfly 7 or 8FS+, and then do the stem riser on that bike to get the weight of my old wrists? I have to know if the upgrade to 75NM torque in the PF7 or 8FS+ is enough to offset it's less powerful 250W motor for climbing hills vs the XM700 350W/63NM motor.

PS: if the riding position is too aggressive my right hand will go to sleep after 15 minutes - not counting the Lift+ that I don't want, the XM700+ is the least aggressive of the Trek eBikes.

Embra
3 weeks ago

Stopped by my LBS today to check on current prices, and sure enough they have dropped since the last time I checked. My dealer said I could take their demo Turbo for $1800, and they can get a Turbo X to me for $3k. I'm going to sleep on it, but I'm inclined to go for the Turbo X for the suspension fork, the 250W motor, and the higher capacity battery.

I'd love to be able to have a Vado in hand to see how they ride and know the specs a bit more concretely (the Pedelec Forum link earlier in this thread was very helpful). I was a bit underwhelmed with the Turbo display, and the Vado looks to improve on that aspect. But the display seems to be a minor part of the overall experience and Turbo X appears to be a reasonably solid choice. It looks like I'd have to go for the Vado Comp at $3800 or so to get the suspension fork. And I've been rolling the $4k pricetag for the Turbo X around in my head long enough that the price drop feels rather persuasive.

Peter Kenyon
2 months ago

Because it spins in contact with the tyre, how much wear is there on the tyre? I remember similar products twenty plus years ago and the rate it wore the tyre was incredible. Wasn't worth the expense.

Don
2 months ago

+Peter Kenyon . You are absolutely right. Regarding this particular product, our experience shows need of one road Tyre (Michelin 700x28) every 51 km, meaning 0.46 € per Km. If the motor follows... Because it is terribly fragile.

james hester
3 months ago

Anyone know of the most inexpensive solution for a e bike add on? Don't care about looks or weight just need power and range.

mike x
3 months ago

250volts may work well for 250w-500w motors so you could use 1amps continuous discharge current on low 2.5 or 5ah capacity battery packs which would keep discharge current on cells low

Rick Kern
4 months ago

This could be excellent as just booster power for getting up hills. Most people cruise just fine.

Don
2 months ago

+Rick Kern . Come on Rick, as an add-e's pawn, you perfectly know that it can't climb a hill. It heats up and gets damaged. It's even written in page 30 of it's manual § 8. So on the way up the hill one should stop and check the temperature of the motor by hand... Stop fooling people you guys, there is an end to every deception.

Eric Piepers
5 months ago

Your hand reminds me of Spiderman.., but nothing comes out of yours.. :-D

Jimmy Walker
5 months ago

What is it like on wet roads

Bharath Naik L
5 months ago

Hi, What is the speed that I get if I add 250w motor to my fat tyre cycle ? Which one is good for fatbike ? 250w or 500w or 1000w ?

subhash nayak
6 months ago

can i use it in my Hercules A500

SilverPower
6 months ago

trop de bruit

Adventures with Jerry
6 months ago

what about weather resistance. i live in Michigan we get lots of rain and snow how is this going to hold up to that.

cold productions
7 months ago

Can I use it on a beach cruiser ?

Rocky
8 months ago

+Pavle Pavlovic Well observed. I 100% agree with your coherent comment. It is true that this product is a real CRAP in every aspect. Considering changing the tier every 30-35 miles, and the battery (300 $) every 6 month and what you have to pay meanwhile to the vendor for repairing because it is a poor quality material and not secured, makes that buying a real and serious electric bike will certainly save you a lot in wallet, nerves and Asprin expenses.
PD: Probably Add-e will soon report your comment as spam, like other similar ones we don't see anymore. :-)

Don
9 months ago

Is there anyone who knows where to find an official technical specification sheet for this thing, like in every toy, drill, fan box or whatever electrical?
A copy of certification, registration (company and product), governmental security approval, declaration of conformity?
Because when I ask Add-e on their channels, they don't reply and delete my requests!
Thanks

Don
9 months ago

+ElectricBikeReview.com
Thank you very much, I'll indeed ask ELV Motors.
PS: It is uncomfortable not to find any trace of this product in European registration institutions, when they pretend it's made in Austria.

ElectricBikeReview.com
9 months ago

Hmm... I don't know? You could reach out to ELV Motors in Santa Clara California. They carry the Add-E and might be able to provide the details you're looking for :)

Marco Antonio
10 months ago

as I can get it in Chile????

Its All Too Beautiful
11 months ago

Cost?

20082002 00
11 months ago

What if you hit a shit with the wheel

Don
10 months ago

You hit it by buying one of those, anyway ....

Tails Furse
11 months ago

That sounds wicked loud. Does your microphone have a compressor on it that makes it sound louder?

Don
7 months ago

+AK Stills
AK - Yes this is correct. You can check the real sound here https://www.dropbox.com/s/kj2ioe8s5h50f7i/AddeNoise.mp3?dl=0
Tire waste is 30-35 miles = +/- 0.50 € per mile (for a tire costing15 €) This fact is also mentioned in other comments. + New discovery: This product is not waterproof.
Take your time and think it twice before investing your money in this product.

Ak Stills
7 months ago

Don - sounds like you've owned this? did you have this experience as mentioned above?

Tails Furse
10 months ago

35? I ride that in two days! Haha, jeez oh man!

Don
10 months ago

It really is loud. But that's not all, it also destroys the tyre very fast, in my case this was 35 miles per tyre.

Suden Gurung
12 months ago

hi .where didi u buy this add e kit. Does add e kit is in amazon.

Anthony Steele
12 months ago

im amazed this works

Rocky
9 months ago

You are 50% right: It works very little, like it's size.

Cutler Cycles
12 months ago

Cool review Court. Neat little thing

Rocky
9 months ago

but inefficient