Add-E 250W Kit Review

Add E 250w Electric Bike Kit Review
Add E 250w Kit Installed
Add E 250w Kit Removable Bottle Battery 22 Volt 6 Amp
Add E 250w Kit Gearless Motor Unit
Add E 250w Kit Clean Handle Bars
Add E 250w Kit Belt Drive Compatible
Add E 250w Kit Kickstand Mount
Add E 250w Kit Grip Tape Friction Surface
Add E 250w Kit Side View
Add E 250w Kit Top Down View
Add E 250w Kit Width View
Add E 250w Kit Retail Box
Add E 250w Kit Unboxing
Add E 250w Electric Bike Kit Review
Add E 250w Kit Installed
Add E 250w Kit Removable Bottle Battery 22 Volt 6 Amp
Add E 250w Kit Gearless Motor Unit
Add E 250w Kit Clean Handle Bars
Add E 250w Kit Belt Drive Compatible
Add E 250w Kit Kickstand Mount
Add E 250w Kit Grip Tape Friction Surface
Add E 250w Kit Side View
Add E 250w Kit Top Down View
Add E 250w Kit Width View
Add E 250w Kit Retail Box
Add E 250w Kit Unboxing


  • Exceedingly compact, light weight and easy to remove (for temporary unpowered use) though it does produce more noise than most of the ebike kits I've tested
  • The bottle style battery pack is beautiful, the cap twists to add power at 50 watt increments up to 250 making it legal internationally, limited top speed of 15.5 mph
  • Lots of optional accessories including a twist or trigger throttle, the included five magnet pedelec disc isn't super responsive but works well and qualifies as Class 1
  • Compatible with a wide range of bicycle types but may require extra work to install (completely removing the bottom bracket), solid six month battery warranty

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Video Review

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Suggested Use:

Neighborhood, Urban

Electric Bike Class:

Pedal Assist (Class 1), Throttle on Demand (Class 2)
Learn more about Ebike classes


6 Month Battery, 2 Year Mechanical Parts


United States, Worldwide

Model Year:


Bicycle Details

Battery Weight:

2.5 lbs (1.13 kg)

Motor Weight:

1.9 lbs (0.86 kg)

Geometry Measurements:

Motor Dimensions: 80 mm x 70 mm x 70 mm


EasyDo Bottle Cage for Battery, Additional Charger $80, Additional Battery $296, Universal Bottle Cage Mount $23, Crank Puller Tool $23, Brompton Specific Mounting Kit $182


Compact 2 Amp Charger, Removable Battery Pack

Electronic Details

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Gearless Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

250 watts

Battery Voltage:

22.2 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

6 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

133.2 wh

Charge Time:

2 hours

Estimated Min Range:

8 miles (13 km)

Estimated Max Range:

16 miles (26 km)

Drive Mode:

Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist, Twist Throttle, Trigger Throttle (5 Magnet Pedelec Disc)

Top Speed:

15.5 mph (25 kph)

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Written Review

The Add-E 250W is a perfect electric bike kit for someone like me because it’s light weight, minimal and supports more active ride styles. It’s also probably the only choice for a lot of people who live in Europe due to legal restrictions of 25 kilometers per hour (15.5 mph) and power rating of 250 watts or less. Top speed is definitely one of my complaints compared to other kits available in the US that can reach 20 or even 28 miles per hour but this is still a satisfying kit. It’s noisier than a lot of other ebikes because the motor in’t contained within a hub and is spinning at a relatively higher RPM. You’ll notice the high pitched electronic whir in the video review above. Still, it’s something I got used to with a bit of time and the other elements of the design (namely size) make it very stealthy, nearly hidden on the frame! Weighing in at ~5.5 lbs including the motor, battery and mounting hardware this kit is light… and it’s mostly removable. The battery bottle can be taken off (and replaced with a real water bottle if you’d like) and the motor slides forward and off with a quick bolt adjustment (using a hex wrench). All of the weight that is present is kept very low and centered on the frame for improved balance and if you plan on riding further and have space for a second battery bottle on the downtube (assuming you used the seat tube for the first one) that will cost you ~$300 extra. Batteries get a basic six month warranty but all hardware gets two years which is awesome!

To me the Add-E makes a lot of sense when used on city style bikes, and maybe road bikes as well, but it’s not idea for full suspension setups because it may not reach the rear wheel at all times. A hardtail trail bike could be a good fit but might produce even more noise due to the knobs and require more frequent adjustment as the tread wears down over time. I love that it’s a seemingly affordable kit but want to point out that you get ~30% of the battery I would consider “average” in the US and may experience much shorter rides as a result (especially if you opt for the twist or trigger throttles). If you do get a throttle, you’ll be transitioning the bike from Class 1 to Class 2 and it may not be allowed at all in some countries. Add-E makes a 600 watt kit that I’m excited to check out and it’s not that much more expensive. I think my favorite part about the way it’s designed is that the motor friction surface does not come into contact with the tire when coasting (if installed correctly). It just hangs out sort of bouncing up and down as you traverse cracks, curbs and other obstacles and this means coasting is not impacted. It’s a super-efficient design, it’s beautiful but it’s also a bit loud and the 250 watt version especially may be underpowered and limited on range for some riders.


  • The bottle style battery is extremely convincing and I love the way it operates (twist the cap to the right for 50 volt increments of additional power from 0 to 50 to 100 up to 250 total)
  • It’s great that this kit can work as pedal assist only or you can opt for twist and trigger throttle options, basically going from Class 1 to Class 2 depending on your needs (throttle mode will likely drain the battery faster if you choose not to pedal as actively)
  • The kit is extremely light weight (~5.5 lbs for all pieces combined) and minimal in appearance, the basic pedal-assist only setup has only one wire and keeps the handlebar area of your bike clean, if you add a throttle you’ll have one wire going from the battery area to your bars
  • Once the mounting plate has been installed, it’s pretty easy to remove the Add-E motor by loosening one bolt and unplugging the power… then simply take the bottle battery off and you’re back to a normal bike
  • The bottle cage battery adapter can be used with traditional water bottles (if you take the battery and Add-E off) but it doesn’t sit perfectly flat at the bottom due to the plug interface
  • You can get additional batteries for ~$300 to increase range and since they fit into normal bottle cages you could potentially have two mounted to the bike if you have bosses on the downtube and seat tube, each pack only weighs ~2.5 pounds which is nice
  • Because the motor and battery are mounted at the middle of the frame you get excellent balance and reduce unsprung weight compared with a hub motor… that said, I don’t think it would work well with a full suspension bike due to wheel movement and limited travel of the Add-E


  • There are no display readouts so you can’t tell how full the battery pack is, how fast you’re going, how far you’ve traveled or anything else… you have to estimate or get a separate cycle computer but that still won’t display your battery
  • The battery capacity offered by this kit is extremely small compared to most kits and bikes I review (about 30% of average) so the range is lower, but it’s also much lighter than traditional offerings
  • You absolutely need space to mount the bottle cage but Add-E does sell an adapter kit for those without threaded bosses on their seat tube or downtube
  • Limited power and top speed on the 250 watt kit, it’s setup for European standards so you get ~15.5 mph top speed vs. 20 mph which is more common in the US, their 600 watt kit can top 20 mph and doesn’t cost much more
  • Depending on the frame design of your bicycle this kit may be easy to install (using a kickstand plate just behind the bottom bracket) or difficult (mounting Carbon fiber plates directly to the bottom bracket)
  • The five magnet pedelec disc isn’t as responsive as a 12 magnet disc and you don’t get brake levers with integrated motor inhibitors so there are moments where you may be braking against the motor
  • If you mount this kit using the kickstand plate you may no longer be able to use the actual kickstand and your bike may tip… consider an aftermarket chain-stay mounting kickstand
  • This kit is actually kind of expensive in my opinion given the very small capacity of the battery pack (about 30% as large as a “normal” sized battery of ~350 watt hours) if you bought two additional batteries you’d be priced at kits with 350+ watts of power vs. 250 but still much lighter weight


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More Add-E Reviews

Add-E 600W Kit Review

  • MSRP: $1,251
  • MODEL YEAR: 2015, 2016

Exceedingly compact, light weight and easy to remove (for temporary unpowered use) though it does produce more noise than most of the ebike kits I've tested. The bottle style battery pack is beautiful, the cap twists to add power at 50…...

2 years ago

I’m curious about the surface material of the friction drive. Is it replaceable? Do you think it might cause a lot of extra tire wear?

Court Rye
2 years ago

I’m wondering the same things Nirmala… but even without the grippy surface metal on rubber would still work alright (maybe unless it’s wet out?) difficult to say on the tire wear… I’d imagine that YES it would wear your tread down more quickly than a hub motor. It might depend on your tread pattern like knobby off-road vs. slick or hybrid tires. The system might also become louder on a knobby tire vs. the smoother ones used in this review :/

1 year ago

I was one of the original funders of the Add-e campaign, and I have over 600 miles with my commuting on partial paved road and some hard packed gravel. It hasn’t really worn my tire any faster, but I should point out that I’m running a tire that is labeled “E-Bike” it has has a tread that good for my ridding conditions. The friction material on the motor is still holding up. I was worried it would be rubbed off sooner than the tire would wear. So far so good with both.

Greg Ritter
2 years ago

Thanks for the well done review. Was waiting for this review as I’ve been watching the news of the bike motor since its launch and like the look and idea behind the motor. But with what I’ve been learning about e bikes from reviews and info from this site, maybe this isn’t the way to go for an affordable, almost hidden ebike kit. I was looking for something with a little more power and some controls to adjust speed and keep track of battery life and distance. Plus the price is higher than I was thinking for what you get. Will continue to watch this site for further reviews, perhaps the go-e bike kit, with 800 W capacity and lower price point will have more success and be more of what I’m looking for. Will patiently stay tuned to electric bike review to keep informed.

Court Rye
2 years ago

Hi Greg! Yeah, I love the direction that the Add-E is exploring but it has limits with this iteration. I’ve been in touch with Go-E and hope to review their product at some point soon so keep an eye out and I’ll continue charging forward :D

2 years ago

A lot of the concerns raised in the review seem to be better addressed by the ShareRoller, another add-on friction drive. It is not as stealth as the Go-E, but it does have much more sophistication and features, and also three sizes of battery to accommodate different needs. You can learn more here:

Court also did a review of an earlier version here: (Note that the latest version includes a lot of improvements.)

David Barroso
2 years ago

I have the 600W (sport) version and it is great to take me to work and back. I do 15km (9.3mi) every day with some climbing (200m accumulated climb) with the power output set to maximum. The add-e takes me up to around 40km/h (24.8mph) with little effort. I do the same time by car, some times more, depending on traffic. I have a hardtail scott aspect with schwalbe big ben tyres.

Court Rye
2 years ago

Wow, that sounds awesome David! Pretty stellar performance for such a small battery pack. I’m assuming you use pedal assist only vs. throttle? Any other tips about getting the most out of the Add-E, noticed you’re using smooth tires vs. knobby.

David Barroso
2 years ago

Only pedal assist. I have another set of wheels with schwalbe thunder burt (knobby tyres) for off-road use. Tyres with smooth surface work better with the add-e. They have a bigger and better surface and therefore better grip between the metal surface of the motor and the tyre. And also less noise. The add-e when working sounds like an RC toy car :)

Court Rye
2 years ago

Cool, thanks David… I reached out to the company and was told that these Schwalbe Hurricane tires work well for off-road because the center is smooth but they are still wider and have some knobs on the edges for traction.

Michael Craigie
1 year ago

David, I installed the 600w set on my bike yesterday and went for a 15km ride on Map 1. Fairly flat ride with only one 2 short but steep hills. In the course of the ride it wore my brand new Continental Gatorskin tyre right down till the threads are exposed at one point. Do you have any tyre wear issues? Have I perhaps installed it incorrectly do you think?

Court Rye
1 year ago

Wow! That’s intense Michael… I didn’t ride very far during my demos for this review + video but the tires held up alright and they were just basic. Continental makes good stuff so I’m really surprised you’ve had such deep wear. I want to provide some sort of feedback like maybe the motor is too close to the tire but honestly, the design is built to “dig in” to get traction so even if it’s further vs. close you should still have similar force going from the motor to the tire… I really don’t know but am hoping David can chime in and help.

2 years ago

Love your reviews Court. I have the 600W one too, but its way to noisy so im not going to use it. If you drop your address I’ll be happy to donate it to you so you can do a review (I guess you already have a battery and the stand installed?)

Court Rye
2 years ago

That’s an awesome offer Geir! I’ll reach out :D


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3 days ago

I have long had a passion for hardtail mtb’s be them analogue or pedal assist, and have found the eMTB version through ownership of the superb KTM Macina Race, to make the perfect bike for wet weather/winter use.

With the Macina Race now sold, it is time to introduce the replacement bike, a KTM Fogo 271
Click to enlarge

I decided a long time ago that whatever the next bike was going to be, that it needed to be 27.5” Plus size, and just as the Macina Race, it also needed to have a good component specification. I was also keen to stay with both the KTM marque and Bosch drive unit system.

As things stand the KTM Fogo 271 exceeds my requirements by a significant margin, so I am more than happy with my choice.

The Magura Boltron T-20x110 front forks is an interesting one for me, as I have read so many reports both good and bad, which made me keen to own a bike that had them fitted, just so that I could come to my own conclusion about them. I have also previously been asked privately about the forks and what I knew about them, so at least I finally get to discover for myself, and can offer opinion accordingly, and not just based from hearsay. I shall post more about the front forks as time passes, but from handling them off the bike, and checking them over thoroughly, it is a promising start. Clearly performance in use and durability are key, so time will tell, but from research that I have completed, I have already worked out that poor set up from end users, plays a major role in reported seal failure.
Click to enlarge

My preferred choice of front mudguard has long been the Rapid Racer Neoguard, (thanks guys) but after discussion, there are currently no plans to introduce a guard for USD front forks. There is no way that I could bring myself to install a guard that utilizes the steerer tube, and with that in mind I already have my own neoprene design waiting to fit to the bike.

The full bike/component specifications are detailed below, but as things stand, there is very little that I intend to change. I shall be replacing Intuvia with Purion, fit a Ragley Tracker saddle, Ritchey Foam grips, a 70mm Easton stem, and change what I believe to be a KS LEV Integra dropper post, in favour of a Rockshox Reverb Stealth. These four listed items are just personal preference and nothing more. The dropper post is simply being changed as I have one that I removed from the Macina Race, so the rebadged KS can be squirreled away.

I have chosen 27.5” Plus for a very specific reason, but just as with the front forks, I shall detail how things work out, as time passes. Briefly though, as many will be aware, I ride throughout the year and in all conditions. I treat my bikes very much as tool to do a job, and to date KTM bikes have filled this role very well, but with slight limitation. I now want to go one stage further and 27.5” plus is going to enable this. The plus size will fulfill the role of providing superb low-pressure grip in respect of riding wooded knarly terrain and also over rocks etc, then come the winter months, I intend to drop the tyre size down to 2.25-2.3 to optimize rear chain stay clearance. Running 2.25 for example, will give me a full 27mm of clearance all round, so close to zero issue of potential mud/leaf build up.

Having received the bike today, I cannot yet add ride specific details and data, but as with any bike that I receive, the first job is to strip the bike down to the component stages, then re assemble studying parts and construction as I go. By doing so I gain a greater insight into the construction of a bike, and can see what if anything in my opinion could or should be changed. Also, if anything fails whilst riding, having already stripped and rebuilt the bike, I have a head start on how to repair things. I get as much pleasure from working on bikes, as I do riding them.
Click to enlarge

This is where it gets interesting for me, as after having pulled the bike down, I am already very impressed by the frame. The build quality and paint finish is superb, but it is what is behind all that, that I am interested in. The shape and tube sizing has been improved, and just turning the first screw to remove the motor covers, revealed the first thought out design feature. A small banana shaped cover which when removed, gives clear and easy access to main connectors of the Bosch CX drive unit. That in itself was a simple, but welcome change. KTM have also now chosen to use an additional two motor mounting points. This again impressed me, not because the standard three wasn’t enough, but more from the potential that it may prevent any motor creaking, as the loading on the mounts is now more equal.

Turning the frame upside down gave the biggest and most pleasant surprise from the point of view of working on a bike. KTM have chosen to redesign the cable routing and internal cast mounts to the frame. Routing cables, wiring, hydraulic brake and dropper post hose, is now effortlessly easy and simple to do. I’m very impressed that such R&D has been put into this side of things, but I guess that it must save valuable seconds during the factory assembly stage. Speaking of cable and hose routing, I was also pleased to note that the frame entry points for routing, are now fractionally larger as well. A lot of thought has gone into the production of this frame.

Removal of the two tyres was next on the list, and it was yet another pleasant surprise to see that the rims are tubeless ready, not just compatible. That’ll save a bit of time and money when setting them up to run tubeless. Once the wheel set has been returned from a friend’s bike shop, after giving them to him to check and adjust spoke tension should it be required, it’ll then just be a simple job to install Stans valves and Effetto Mariposa CaffeLatex sealant. A sealant that I have no hesitation in using or recommending.

Whilst in its knock down stage, I decided to take advantage of the situation, and fitted an AMS XL Honeycomb frame guard kit. It seemed silly to pass up the opportunity to test a kit, so time will tell as to how effective that it is. It was certainly easy enough to apply, although the frame colour doesn’t really mask any slight air bubbles very well. I have also added 3M clear film to several areas of the frame as well.

Finally, the lad that purchased the Macina Race hardtail has indicated that he wants to start to ride off road as well, so that being the case, I should be able to format some interesting bike comparisons.

As well as regular updates to this forum, further updates and photographs will be posted at the following places.

Thanks to KTM Bike Industries, The Little Bike Shop, Bikegoo, Effetto Mariposa, Fork Juice, and Magicshine UK.

Full component specification

2017 KTM Macina Fogo 271 8s EX1Frame

:- Macina MTB 27.5"+ BOOST, Alloy for Bosch, with semi-integrated battery
Frame sizes :- 43cm, 48cm and 53cm.
Bike colour :- Matt light grey, black + toxic orange.
Front fork :- MAGURA Boltron inverted, T-20x110 120mm travel, weight 2,200g
Headset :- KTM Team B303AM drop/in-tapered, +10
Headset bearing numbers :- MH-P28 and MH-P08M
Stem :- KTM Team KT-6 7° 95mm Weight 133g
Handlebar :- KTM Team HB-RB12L riser, rise 15°, Width 720mm
Handlebar grips :- KTM Team VLG--775-12D2 Diamond fin with end Clamps
Brake rotors :- Shimano RT86 6-bolt, 180mm front, 180mm rear. 260.4g pr
Brakes :- Shimano Deore XT M8000 Weight 554g pr including caliper/hose/lever assembly
Trigger shifter :- SRAM SL EX1 8speed Weight 122g
Rear derailleur :- SRAM RD EX1 8speed. Weight 289g
Front sprocket size as supplied 16T
Cassette :- SRAM XG899 11-48 ( 11, 13, 15, 18, 24, 32, 40, 48) Weight 360g
Chain :- SRAM EX1 Weight 273g
Pedal cranks :- SRAM EX1, ISIS for Bosch. Length 170mm. Weight 510g pr
Pedals :- VP components VP-539 black platform, with replaceable pins. Weight 370g pr
Wheel set :- KTM Line 27-5" plus B/B Tubeless ready
Wheel rims :- Ryder edge 35, 32 spoke hole, suitable for 2.3 to ‘plus’ size of 3.0. Weight 580g
Front hub :- 20mmThrough axle DT Swiss 350 classic-6-bolt 20/110/TA BOOST. Weight 239g
Rear hub :- 12mm Through axle DT Swiss 350 classic-6-bolt 12/148/TA BOOST. Weight 305g
Tyres :- Schwalbe Nobby Nic 70-584 TL-easy, Snake skin, Apex. Weight 910g per tyre.
Saddle :- Fizik Gobi M7 with Manganese rails. Weight 255g
Seat post :- KTM Comp JD-YSP12L hydraulic adjustable 100-370, diameter 30.9mm Weight 560g
Display :- Intuvia LCD, with Walk assist
Drive unit :- Bosch Performance Line CX 36V-250W, 25km/h 75NM of torque, four assist levels,
Eco giving 50% Tour giving 120% Sport giving 210% Turbo 300% Maximum torque available
per assist level, Eco 40Nm Tour 50Nm Sport 60Nm Turbo 75Nm
Battery :- Bosch Powerpack 13.8Ah - 500WH
Motor weight :- 4kg
Battery weight :- 2.6kg, dimensions 325mm x 92mm x 90mm
Overall Bike weight :- 21.4kg

And now 'Electric Mountain Bike Collective' on Facebook.


5 days ago

Greetings; new member here. Searched and searched for an answer before posting a new question, but could not find it. Owner of a BH Easy Motion Race. I believe the motor is 250W. From what I read, the assist is designed to cut out past 15.6 mph (25km/h) due to regulations. But is there a "safe way" to increase the speed when assist cuts out? Read a post about Nitro Battery (??) but it was for a different model.

Any insight would be appreciated and keep on riding.



Prabha Gopinath
1 week ago

The Optibike website indicates that the R11 is no longer in production and has been replaced by the R15. I have cit and paste some of teh product description below and have some questions. I hope someone that owns one or perhaps someone from Optibike can answer these:

"new digital display with 5 power levels that can be selected with push of a button on the handlebar. The levels range from an easy low torque 250W in level 1, to a blazing fast 1500W with the full 175N-m of torque in level 5."

"Our new torque control throttle makes riding at the speed and cadence that you like much easier, and gives finer control of the output of the motor for those tough offroad trails."

1. Does the LCD control panel essentially provide selectable power limits?
2. Does the bike have a torque/cadence sensing drive system as is commonly understood or does the second quote simply mean that having five levels of power limitation gives finer throttle control and reduces the probability that you could fly off the road by applying the throttle a little too enthusiastically?

I hear that Optibike is offering upgrades to existing R11s to the R15. Does anyone have more info on this? I assume that this is purely a software and control panel upgrade that will give the same five levels of control to an R11's throttle vs the current near-on-off behavior?

I also hear that Optibike is going to introduce another R series model that will sit between the R15 and the disco-ed R11. Does anyone have any further information om this?


1 week ago

Drove out from llinois to Silverthorne last week, and brought along two ebikes. I had last ridden a bike (rental) out there in 1990, when we rode Dillon-Keystone on rentals, until I got too tired pulling my 4 year old in a trailer, but I had fond memories.

Best ride was from Frisco to Copper Mountain. Nine miles that climb about 500 feet, with beautiful scenery on both sides. Lunch at the resort and then it's downhill all the way back. I wanted to go on to Vail, a steeper climb, but we had a trail ride (horses) scheduled, so we didn't go. My wife's 250W bike handled this fine. I had a 750W BBS02 mid drive that loafed along. I talked to other riders on Pedegos going on to Vail, so I would think the little motors could make it, or they could coast back if the batteries went out.

Other rides took us into Breckenridge and Dillon. These rides were more like riding paths in Illinois, with adjoining highways and less scenery, but it's still Colorado Also more riders.There, I was disappointed to see signs banning e-bikes. At some points, those routes were full of families on rental bikes, gasping for breath at the 9000 foot altitudes, as I would have too on a regular bike. Of course, I pretended not to see the signs, as did other people on ebikes. Breckenridge, of course, is all about the tourist dollars, as my wife pointed out, so they're going to lose her dollars as a result. She loved the rides, by the way.

Meanwhile, in places like Golden and Boulder, the regular bike culture flourishes. Never seen so many enthusiasts. Wish I had spent more time.

Gary Shannon
2 weeks ago

I just installed my Hilltopper (250W) this morning, and spent the better part of the day cruising around town and running errands. I'm thrilled with my new eBike.

I noticed that I quickly got in the habit of just pushing the button when I was already pedaling, so I used it just to boost my own pedaling. (I'm 72 years old and don't pedal as fast as I used to :( ) I kept my 7-speed Schwinn in 5th gear and cruised at about 10-15 MPH. On level ground I mostly just pedaled. On downslopes I just coasted, and on upslopes I used the motor as a pedal assist. Using the motor that way I put about 15 miles on my "8-mile" battery. I don't know how much charge was left because the Hilltopper has no battery gauge, but it didn't take very long to recharge to full.

One thing that worried me was parking at the supermarket and leaving my battery unattended. So I bought an inexpensive WalMart lock box and bolted it to the handlebars. I used pipe brackets and slotless carriage bolts so the brackets cannot be loosened from outside the box. The wires feed through a hole I drilled in the side. Now I can lock up the battery when I go into the store, yet open the box and take it in the house for charging very easily.

2 weeks ago


I like to buy a Specialized Turbo bike, but I can't choose between a used second hand Turbo S 250W from 2014, with a 504kwh battery (seller claims he did around 3000km with the battery) or a brand new Turbo FLR 200W (similar to a base turbo in US) with also a 504kwh battery.
The price is about the same.
The top speed difference of 3km/h doesn't matter for me.
The Turbo S warranty has expired.

2 weeks ago

Regarding the Blade and the Carbon Gates, although they say it is supposed to have the same strength specs as the chains they replace... I have not actually been able to find a max power / max torque for it, they seem to be avoiding the subject...
That said, I would give up the belt if I could get the Bafang ultra.

I agree that the chainline may also be an issue on the FLX blade, although I have not found the chainline spec for the new 380x nuvinci.
I also agree that FLX is still an unknown entity as far as longevity and reliability is concerned, but all the E-bikes parts are standard, and not very complex to maintain.
So at this point the Blade / NuVinci scenario is more wishfull thinking around the perspective of getting better motor power than anything else :)
Good find on the alibaba FLX blade/attack clone by the way :) , and definitely, if FLX is already an unknow entity, Alibaba is one big extra step in that direction :)

I am aware the Bosch is one system with different limitations, but I have tried the 250W, and on steep hills, I find it is less than adequate. I also want to be able to pedal the bike fast at the 28mph limit, and this is why I am kind of setting the bar at the 350W version minimum.
But I may be overthinking that one, and in the end it may come down to compromise...

Agree on unknown reliability of the New Evelo bikes (mostly the new Bafand Max drive), that said, Bafang in general has a long track record now, and Evelo offers 4 years warranty, which buys some peace of mind :)

Interesting to hear about the Harmony Glitches. I have ridden several bikes with the NuVinci, but have not actually tried the Harmony. I do like the idea of simplicity of operation for my wife.
The Harmony does have the ability to be used in the regular manual mode of the NuVinci, so there is always that fallback.
Testing a harmony equipped bike is on my agenda next.

I am hoping more people will want the simplicity of use and maintenance of the configuration I am after, and that more manufacturer will offer it.

Thanks again for all the input, I am taking things slow, every perspective is valuable.

Ravi Kempaiah
2 weeks ago

Thank you for the quick answer, I will contact the newwheel to see what they could do and at what price.

I actually have the Tempo on a secondary list, but they only offer the 250W Bosch on that bike, and the fork is not a real suspension fork.
So for cheaper, the Evelo Galaxy looks like a better fit with a more powerful motor.
But other than that it is a great contender too.
The Atom also has a 250W motor and an IGH versus the Harmony, so also on the secondary list :)

Thanks again for your input

Most of the Bosch motors are 250W anyway. Even the speed motors. The US version is spec'd 350W but the hardware is absolutely same.
Going by Watts is the sure fire of completely misjudging a bike's capability. I suggest you visit a bike shop and ride it actually.
Harmony has some glitches and that is why manufacturers are not using them extensively.

EVELO Galaxy won't ship until late October and there is no guarantee of the reliability of the system.

Just like the ATOM Wave, most of the Specialized Levo bikes use the Brose system but most motors whether it is Bosch or Brose or Yamah put out significantly more.

You can't just take the FLX blade and add a NuVinci to it. The chainline won't work and the Bafang system will rip the Gates carbon drive in no time.
You can get the exact same BLADE model for $2000 here but I suggest you to stay away from products like that because down the line, you will end up struggling to find parts.

2 weeks ago

Thank you for the quick answer, I will contact the newwheel to see what they could do and at what price.

I actually have the Tempo on a secondary list, but they only offer the 250W Bosch on that bike, and the fork is not a real suspension fork.
So for cheaper, the Evelo Galaxy looks like a better fit with a more powerful motor.
But other than that it is a great contender too.
The Atom also has a 250W motor and an IGH versus the Harmony, so also on the secondary list :)

Thanks again for your input

Ravi Kempaiah
2 weeks ago

How does Wattage equate to Torque? It seems to me that the two are not exactly correlated - my 350W, Bosch-equipped Haibike has noticeably less torque than my 250W Yamaha Haibike.

I certainly feel that both Yamaha and Brose put out more torque.
I found this chart for the Brose 2018 motor to be interesting.

2 weeks ago

How does Wattage equate to Torque? It seems to me that the two are not exactly correlated - my 350W, Bosch-equipped Haibike has noticeably less torque than my 250W Yamaha Haibike.

3 weeks ago

My surprise is the consumption in watts of certain engines that supposedly are 250w to 350w of shimano and bosh ..... in theory they would now be working above their usual consumption. The one that cuts the revolutions to 100 or 130 is determined By the controller, yamaha I am not surprised the consumption because it has engines 250w to 500w to attend 45km / h.

I think that that excess consumption in the bosh and shimano is given by the size of teeth in the plates and cassette.

I think that maybe having more teeth in a dish gives more range of top speed to less cadence and that helps the engine in more percentage and maximum speed can remove extra charge and therefore consumption in extra watts ....... . In this section the yamaha are leaders because it has option until double plate of 34/44 and 38/48 teeth, the human force accompanies the engine in much more regime of speed and saves watts hours.

Using the GearCalculator app android with wheel 700x40c, cadence of 90 rpm, plate of 48 teeth and cassette of 11 teeth you have a top speed of 52km / h but if you change the plate of 48 teeth for a 22 teeth of bosh the top speed is 23 , 8 km / h, the rest of speed and effort is made by the bosh engine with the consequent higher consumption in peak watts.

Bob vd Dop
4 weeks ago

Spec's before: Gazelle Cityzen Shimano IGH 7 NEXUS, Rollerbrake's,
Spec's after: Gazelle Cityzen Shim. IGH7 NEXUS,Rollerbrakes, alu. rear black carrier with straps, alu black mudgards,AXA Defender lock, Black alu site-stand, Bafang 36v 250w mid-engine, 36v 13Ah battery,6-36V led lights front and rear, brake-sensor,850 color display, modified chaingard, tuned controller.

4 weeks ago

I am very happy has a lot of autonomy.
I'm using echo mode and my last route was 45kms ......
55% battery saved:)

Steve Barsby
2 months ago

I've been riding a DIY ebike for 3 months now. It has a 48V, 17.5Ah, battery paired with a 250W front motor. My average riding speed (riding alone) is now 21mph regardless of distance (up to 75 mi), as I consume about 10.5Wh/mile. My longest rides were 83 and 82 miles without plug-in "boosts". Those two days had a combined 8,000 feet of climbing. Obviously, I cut off power on any noticeable downhill of almost any length. Longest ride so far is 113 miles. My bike is PAS only, so there's no throttle. I'm riding about 500mi/week.

I wear a Garmin FitbitHR, so I know my heart rate throughout my rides. At age 76, I can maintain 120bpm over hours.

So do I get good exercise with an ebike? You bet!

I feel so good on the bike, that I've a 2nd battery en route so I can do centuries without waiting around for that plug-in boost.

2 months ago

We are ADD-E Dealer in USA.
We have 2 different ADD-E kits for sale.

ADD-E 600W Sport Edition
Power: 600 Watt
Max. Speed: 45 km/h (28 mp/h)

ADD-E 25W 250W Edition
Power: 250 Watt
Max. Speed: 25 km/h (15,5 mp/h)

Good reasons for add-e

It is light, with a unobtrusive design
add-e fits on nearly every bike
keep your beloved bike
lower costs than an e-bike
fast attaching and detaching
Battery empty? – You can continue as normal

2 months ago

Actually if you know about soldering a bit and can follow simple (but at times weird) instructions you can DIY.

1) Manual and software
2) AVR CAN Module - 36 Euro
3) Pair of connectors - HR30-6J-6P, HR30-6P-6S
4) About of 1.5 hours of time and some luck! :)

My KTM ecross (250w) has been limited to 25km/h and now it is 35. Technically you can set what ever you like.

Happy (and fast) riding!

Best regards,

Al P
2 months ago

My 250w motor will reach 500w at peak, but even when shifting down, I still have to apply considerable force to get up steep hills. Add to that high speed pedaling while going nowhere. This defeats the whole purpose for buying an ebike. My 500w bike has 750w peak power and climbs steep Adirondack hills with no problem. Even my wife's 350w motor climbs with ease. If it didn't, she would be clamoring for a new bike. I would never buy another bike with a 250w motor unless I lived in a place like southern Florida, where there are no steep hills.

2 months ago

Hi guys,
it is my first post on the forum and i would like to promote you our new 12 inches foldable e-bicycle.
we are a manufacturer based in Taiwan with factories both in Taiwan and China.
I will try to be fast :D

here are our main advantages:

in a way that you can still push it when folded ( practical in metro etc...)
250w power
battery in inside the frame ( samsung)
12 inches weels ( 16 inches next month)
25km/h ( charging time 2.5 to 3 hours)
maximum weight 120kg
weight 19.45 kg
distance per charge is 30 to 55 km, depending on how you use it-
using only the motor or pedaling meanwhile

price is 600US$ per piece - if distributor price is negotiable - if 10 persons decide to get it ( we can arrange a price too)- for information, a 20 ft containers can be filled with 63 pieces ( cost around 1500us$ depending on the forwarder which is equal to 24us$ per piece)

if you have any question, do not hesitate to ask wether on this forum or directly to my email

2 months ago

¿The end the route. .....%battery ?Surprise....sduro trekkin is yamaha 250w assist 25km/h.....the urban s is 350w bosh assist 45km/h.....router 330 meters to 1850 meters....all up up up......the 2 ebikes the end route in same time.....I believe .....the cranck 36 and 48 in ebike yamaha great work. ...

Ravi Kempaiah
2 months ago

Ravi - Thanks for the above explanation. I have another related question that I hope you may be able to shed some light on. Bulls in the US specs their Brose s-pedelecs at 350W (28 mph bikes) while the same bikes with the same motor are rated at 250W in their european specs. I supppose that this is more of a marketing ploy and that the motors are identical (i.e., have the same armature - power/torque) and only the firmware is different to increase the cut off point and/or alter the power assist profile. Do you know if this is true? If so, will the recent update result in the same operating efficiency gain for the s-pedelec models compared to the 20 mph models?

Hi Paul,

I apologize, I was not clear in my earlier response.

First, the difference b/w 250W Brose and 350W Brose is, the former is limited to 20mph.

Second, the controller current on the 350W/28mph Brose system is higher than the 250W. I was told 15A in 20mph and 20A in the 28mph (I discussed this with BULLS tech but I don't have a written source to share with you).
If everything is the same, it won't make sense how the same motor achieves higher speed at the same voltage/current values.

As for the firmware update: For a given set of voltage/current, the power output of motor is set by its copper mass/armature. But, this software update is basically updating the brain (controller of the bike).
The controller is built into the motor and with this update, it does change how the controller operates for different input voltage (dictated by pedal torque).

2 months ago

@PaulGee ,
Unless the motor armature is changed, it's not possible to boost the power output of a motor for a set voltage. There are some tricks though.
What this update does is, up the operating efficiency of the Brose motor by roughly 3-4%. Also, the way motor responds has been changed via the firmware and as a result, it feels a tad zippy. It's minor though.
So, in short, the maximum power output remains constant but the 4th level does unlock some reserved power from the system.

Ravi - Thanks for the above explanation. I have another related question that I hope you may be able to shed some light on. Bulls in the US specs their Brose s-pedelecs at 350W (28 mph bikes) while the same bikes with the same motor are rated at 250W in their european specs. I supppose that this is more of a marketing ploy and that the motors are identical (i.e., have the same armature - power/torque) and only the firmware is different to increase the cut off point and/or alter the power assist profile. Do you know if this is true? If so, will the recent update result in the same operating efficiency gain for the s-pedelec models compared to the 20 mph models?

2 months ago

..Nice looking bike in your picture!

Thank you. :) In stock form it was an inexpensive 7-speed, but was upgraded with second-hand components.

Does Leeds upgrade their package with a throttle and PAS these days? Makes for a more versatile ride.

Leed has, so far, refrained from adding complexity to their 250w hub systems. For me, that K.I.S.S approach is the value. The PBJ works great as a simple on-demand boost motor with the on/off button. If it had PAS, the motor would be constantly drawing down the battery which would then require a larger/heavier battery. Pedaling a bicycle on level ground is really not difficult, so having electric assist on that terrain is sort of pointless.

A 250w mid-drive with torque and cadence sensing that routes power through the bike's gearing would turn the rear tire with a lot more muscle. With that design, PAS is worthwhile. But, it's much heavier with considerable mechanical and electronic complexity, and several times the cost of a geared hub.

1 month ago

I tend to tinker with bicycles a lot during the dark months. Last autumn, I was tossing around some ideas for a simple power system using an RC LiPo battery pack with a friction drive. I wanted to power a bike but keep it as lightweight as possible. Inspiration came from ‘Kepler’ in Australia who has built some functional minimalist designs. While gathering battery data and sources I came across Leed’s PBJ battery. That mini battery with their Bafang 250 watt geared hub was a far more efficient setup than a friction drive. It was also sorted out... plug-and-play. So, I invested some lunch money and got the PBJ package.

There isn’t much labor involved to install a small front-hub system: replace stock wheel with the new wheel, route on/off switch to handlebars, and mount the battery someplace. I wanted my bike to not look like an eBike, though. So, I spent additional time securing the wires with clear tape instead of using zip ties, and hid the battery and controller in a small frame bag. I also laced the motor into a matching rim.

It worked, and I now have several hundred miles on the bike. Leed claims that the little motor with the PBJ will run for 4 miles. I agree with that. If the route has moderate hills, though, and the power is used conservatively when climbing, expect two or three miles. As I’ve mentioned in another thread, a 250 watt geared hub does not generate a lot of energy, it’s an ‘assist’ motor. A 250w mid-drive is massively stronger for climbing, but the PBJ can’t be beat if you want a stealthy eBike. It can ridden on pedal-bike-only paths unnoticed, but I rarely use the motor on those mostly level routes. Where it shines is getting me back home up a few hills, and then it’s a very welcome boost after a long ride.

2 months ago

how expensive ! Jesus.

Jai's Media
2 months ago

Gearless direct drive !> Erm the wheel is the gear with friction drive not 'Direct drive' get it right or why bother do a review!
Have you mentioned the power waste through compressing the tyre when engaged ?

Rıfat Erdem Sahin
3 months ago

Great video will it work on foldable bikes and on hills?

Matt Walls
3 months ago

pretty pricey considering the quality is meh!

Freeflight Paragliding
4 months ago

Thank you, well explained and presented video.

Peter Kenyon
7 months ago

Because it spins in contact with the tyre, how much wear is there on the tyre? I remember similar products twenty plus years ago and the rate it wore the tyre was incredible. Wasn't worth the expense.

7 months ago

+Peter Kenyon . You are absolutely right. Regarding this particular product, our experience shows need of one road Tyre (Michelin 700x28) every 51 km, meaning 0.46 € per Km. If the motor follows... Because it is terribly fragile.

james hester
8 months ago

Anyone know of the most inexpensive solution for a e bike add on? Don't care about looks or weight just need power and range.

mike x
8 months ago

250volts may work well for 250w-500w motors so you could use 1amps continuous discharge current on low 2.5 or 5ah capacity battery packs which would keep discharge current on cells low

Rick Kern
8 months ago

This could be excellent as just booster power for getting up hills. Most people cruise just fine.

7 months ago

+Rick Kern . Come on Rick, as an add-e's pawn, you perfectly know that it can't climb a hill. It heats up and gets damaged. It's even written in page 30 of it's manual § 8. So on the way up the hill one should stop and check the temperature of the motor by hand... Stop fooling people you guys, there is an end to every deception.

Eric Piepers
10 months ago

Your hand reminds me of Spiderman.., but nothing comes out of yours.. :-D

Jimmy Walker
10 months ago

What is it like on wet roads

Bharath Naik L
10 months ago

Hi, What is the speed that I get if I add 250w motor to my fat tyre cycle ? Which one is good for fatbike ? 250w or 500w or 1000w ?

subhash nayak
11 months ago

can i use it in my Hercules A500

11 months ago

trop de bruit

Adventures with Jerry
11 months ago

what about weather resistance. i live in Michigan we get lots of rain and snow how is this going to hold up to that.

cold productions
12 months ago

Can I use it on a beach cruiser ?

1 year ago

+Pavle Pavlovic Well observed. I 100% agree with your coherent comment. It is true that this product is a real CRAP in every aspect. Considering changing the tier every 30-35 miles, and the battery (300 $) every 6 month and what you have to pay meanwhile to the vendor for repairing because it is a poor quality material and not secured, makes that buying a real and serious electric bike will certainly save you a lot in wallet, nerves and Asprin expenses.
PD: Probably Add-e will soon report your comment as spam, like other similar ones we don't see anymore. :-)

1 year ago

Is there anyone who knows where to find an official technical specification sheet for this thing, like in every toy, drill, fan box or whatever electrical?
A copy of certification, registration (company and product), governmental security approval, declaration of conformity?
Because when I ask Add-e on their channels, they don't reply and delete my requests!

1 year ago
Thank you very much, I'll indeed ask ELV Motors.
PS: It is uncomfortable not to find any trace of this product in European registration institutions, when they pretend it's made in Austria.
1 year ago

Hmm... I don't know? You could reach out to ELV Motors in Santa Clara California. They carry the Add-E and might be able to provide the details you're looking for :)

Marco Antonio
1 year ago

as I can get it in Chile????

Its All Too Beautiful
1 year ago