Add-E 250W Kit Review

Add E 250w Electric Bike Kit Review
Add E 250w Kit Installed
Add E 250w Kit Removable Bottle Battery 22 Volt 6 Amp
Add E 250w Kit Gearless Motor Unit
Add E 250w Kit Clean Handle Bars
Add E 250w Kit Belt Drive Compatible
Add E 250w Kit Kickstand Mount
Add E 250w Kit Grip Tape Friction Surface
Add E 250w Kit Side View
Add E 250w Kit Top Down View
Add E 250w Kit Width View
Add E 250w Kit Retail Box
Add E 250w Kit Unboxing
Add E 250w Electric Bike Kit Review
Add E 250w Kit Installed
Add E 250w Kit Removable Bottle Battery 22 Volt 6 Amp
Add E 250w Kit Gearless Motor Unit
Add E 250w Kit Clean Handle Bars
Add E 250w Kit Belt Drive Compatible
Add E 250w Kit Kickstand Mount
Add E 250w Kit Grip Tape Friction Surface
Add E 250w Kit Side View
Add E 250w Kit Top Down View
Add E 250w Kit Width View
Add E 250w Kit Retail Box
Add E 250w Kit Unboxing

Summary

  • Exceedingly compact, light weight and easy to remove (for temporary unpowered use) though it does produce more noise than most of the ebike kits I've tested
  • The bottle style battery pack is beautiful, the cap twists to add power at 50 watt increments up to 250 making it legal internationally, limited top speed of 15.5 mph
  • Lots of optional accessories including a twist or trigger throttle, the included five magnet pedelec disc isn't super responsive but works well and qualifies as Class 1
  • Compatible with a wide range of bicycle types but may require extra work to install (completely removing the bottom bracket), solid six month battery warranty

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Video Review

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Introduction

Make:

Add-E

Model:

250W

Price:

$1,012

Suggested Use:

Neighborhood, Urban

Electric Bike Class:

Pedal Assist (Class 1), Throttle on Demand (Class 2)
Learn more about Ebike classes

Warranty:

6 Month Battery, 2 Year Mechanical Parts

Availability:

United States, Worldwide

Model Year:

20152016

Bicycle Details

Battery Weight:

2.5 lbs (1.13 kg)

Motor Weight:

1.9 lbs (0.86 kg)

Geometry Measurements:

Motor Dimensions: 80 mm x 70 mm x 70 mm

Accessories:

EasyDo Bottle Cage for Battery, Additional Charger $80, Additional Battery $296, Universal Bottle Cage Mount $23, Crank Puller Tool $23, Brompton Specific Mounting Kit $182

Other:

Compact 2 Amp Charger, Removable Battery Pack

Electronic Details

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Gearless Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

250 watts

Battery Voltage:

22.2 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

6 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

133.2 wh

Charge Time:

2 hours

Estimated Min Range:

8 miles (13 km)

Estimated Max Range:

16 miles (26 km)

Drive Mode:

Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist, Twist Throttle, Trigger Throttle (5 Magnet Pedelec Disc)

Top Speed:

15.5 mph (25 kph)

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Written Review

The Add-E 250W is a perfect electric bike kit for someone like me because it’s light weight, minimal and supports more active ride styles. It’s also probably the only choice for a lot of people who live in Europe due to legal restrictions of 25 kilometers per hour (15.5 mph) and power rating of 250 watts or less. Top speed is definitely one of my complaints compared to other kits available in the US that can reach 20 or even 28 miles per hour but this is still a satisfying kit. It’s noisier than a lot of other ebikes because the motor in’t contained within a hub and is spinning at a relatively higher RPM. You’ll notice the high pitched electronic whir in the video review above. Still, it’s something I got used to with a bit of time and the other elements of the design (namely size) make it very stealthy, nearly hidden on the frame! Weighing in at ~5.5 lbs including the motor, battery and mounting hardware this kit is light… and it’s mostly removable. The battery bottle can be taken off (and replaced with a real water bottle if you’d like) and the motor slides forward and off with a quick bolt adjustment (using a hex wrench). All of the weight that is present is kept very low and centered on the frame for improved balance and if you plan on riding further and have space for a second battery bottle on the downtube (assuming you used the seat tube for the first one) that will cost you ~$300 extra. Batteries get a basic six month warranty but all hardware gets two years which is awesome!

To me the Add-E makes a lot of sense when used on city style bikes, and maybe road bikes as well, but it’s not idea for full suspension setups because it may not reach the rear wheel at all times. A hardtail trail bike could be a good fit but might produce even more noise due to the knobs and require more frequent adjustment as the tread wears down over time. I love that it’s a seemingly affordable kit but want to point out that you get ~30% of the battery I would consider “average” in the US and may experience much shorter rides as a result (especially if you opt for the twist or trigger throttles). If you do get a throttle, you’ll be transitioning the bike from Class 1 to Class 2 and it may not be allowed at all in some countries. Add-E makes a 600 watt kit that I’m excited to check out and it’s not that much more expensive. I think my favorite part about the way it’s designed is that the motor friction surface does not come into contact with the tire when coasting (if installed correctly). It just hangs out sort of bouncing up and down as you traverse cracks, curbs and other obstacles and this means coasting is not impacted. It’s a super-efficient design, it’s beautiful but it’s also a bit loud and the 250 watt version especially may be underpowered and limited on range for some riders.

Pros:

  • The bottle style battery is extremely convincing and I love the way it operates (twist the cap to the right for 50 volt increments of additional power from 0 to 50 to 100 up to 250 total)
  • It’s great that this kit can work as pedal assist only or you can opt for twist and trigger throttle options, basically going from Class 1 to Class 2 depending on your needs (throttle mode will likely drain the battery faster if you choose not to pedal as actively)
  • The kit is extremely light weight (~5.5 lbs for all pieces combined) and minimal in appearance, the basic pedal-assist only setup has only one wire and keeps the handlebar area of your bike clean, if you add a throttle you’ll have one wire going from the battery area to your bars
  • Once the mounting plate has been installed, it’s pretty easy to remove the Add-E motor by loosening one bolt and unplugging the power… then simply take the bottle battery off and you’re back to a normal bike
  • The bottle cage battery adapter can be used with traditional water bottles (if you take the battery and Add-E off) but it doesn’t sit perfectly flat at the bottom due to the plug interface
  • You can get additional batteries for ~$300 to increase range and since they fit into normal bottle cages you could potentially have two mounted to the bike if you have bosses on the downtube and seat tube, each pack only weighs ~2.5 pounds which is nice
  • Because the motor and battery are mounted at the middle of the frame you get excellent balance and reduce unsprung weight compared with a hub motor… that said, I don’t think it would work well with a full suspension bike due to wheel movement and limited travel of the Add-E

Cons:

  • There are no display readouts so you can’t tell how full the battery pack is, how fast you’re going, how far you’ve traveled or anything else… you have to estimate or get a separate cycle computer but that still won’t display your battery
  • The battery capacity offered by this kit is extremely small compared to most kits and bikes I review (about 30% of average) so the range is lower, but it’s also much lighter than traditional offerings
  • You absolutely need space to mount the bottle cage but Add-E does sell an adapter kit for those without threaded bosses on their seat tube or downtube
  • Limited power and top speed on the 250 watt kit, it’s setup for European standards so you get ~15.5 mph top speed vs. 20 mph which is more common in the US, their 600 watt kit can top 20 mph and doesn’t cost much more
  • Depending on the frame design of your bicycle this kit may be easy to install (using a kickstand plate just behind the bottom bracket) or difficult (mounting Carbon fiber plates directly to the bottom bracket)
  • The five magnet pedelec disc isn’t as responsive as a 12 magnet disc and you don’t get brake levers with integrated motor inhibitors so there are moments where you may be braking against the motor
  • If you mount this kit using the kickstand plate you may no longer be able to use the actual kickstand and your bike may tip… consider an aftermarket chain-stay mounting kickstand
  • This kit is actually kind of expensive in my opinion given the very small capacity of the battery pack (about 30% as large as a “normal” sized battery of ~350 watt hours) if you bought two additional batteries you’d be priced at kits with 350+ watts of power vs. 250 but still much lighter weight

Resources:

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More Add-E Reviews

Add-E 600W Kit Review

  • MSRP: $1,251
  • MODEL YEAR: 2015, 2016

Exceedingly compact, light weight and easy to remove (for temporary unpowered use) though it does produce more noise than most of the ebike kits I've tested. The bottle style battery pack is beautiful, the cap twists to add power at 50…...

Nirmala
1 year ago

I’m curious about the surface material of the friction drive. Is it replaceable? Do you think it might cause a lot of extra tire wear?

Court Rye
1 year ago

I’m wondering the same things Nirmala… but even without the grippy surface metal on rubber would still work alright (maybe unless it’s wet out?) difficult to say on the tire wear… I’d imagine that YES it would wear your tread down more quickly than a hub motor. It might depend on your tread pattern like knobby off-road vs. slick or hybrid tires. The system might also become louder on a knobby tire vs. the smoother ones used in this review :/

NerdBrick
11 months ago

I was one of the original funders of the Add-e campaign, and I have over 600 miles with my commuting on partial paved road and some hard packed gravel. It hasn’t really worn my tire any faster, but I should point out that I’m running a tire that is labeled “E-Bike” it has has a tread that good for my ridding conditions. The friction material on the motor is still holding up. I was worried it would be rubbed off sooner than the tire would wear. So far so good with both.

Greg Ritter
1 year ago

Thanks for the well done review. Was waiting for this review as I’ve been watching the news of the bike motor since its launch and like the look and idea behind the motor. But with what I’ve been learning about e bikes from reviews and info from this site, maybe this isn’t the way to go for an affordable, almost hidden ebike kit. I was looking for something with a little more power and some controls to adjust speed and keep track of battery life and distance. Plus the price is higher than I was thinking for what you get. Will continue to watch this site for further reviews, perhaps the go-e bike kit, with 800 W capacity and lower price point will have more success and be more of what I’m looking for. Will patiently stay tuned to electric bike review to keep informed.

Court Rye
1 year ago

Hi Greg! Yeah, I love the direction that the Add-E is exploring but it has limits with this iteration. I’ve been in touch with Go-E and hope to review their product at some point soon so keep an eye out and I’ll continue charging forward :D

Nirmala
1 year ago

A lot of the concerns raised in the review seem to be better addressed by the ShareRoller, another add-on friction drive. It is not as stealth as the Go-E, but it does have much more sophistication and features, and also three sizes of battery to accommodate different needs. You can learn more here: http://igg.me/at/shareroller/x/12713097

Court also did a review of an earlier version here: https://electricbikereview.com/shareroller/version-1/ (Note that the latest version includes a lot of improvements.)

David Barroso
1 year ago

I have the 600W (sport) version and it is great to take me to work and back. I do 15km (9.3mi) every day with some climbing (200m accumulated climb) with the power output set to maximum. The add-e takes me up to around 40km/h (24.8mph) with little effort. I do the same time by car, some times more, depending on traffic. I have a hardtail scott aspect with schwalbe big ben tyres.

Court Rye
1 year ago

Wow, that sounds awesome David! Pretty stellar performance for such a small battery pack. I’m assuming you use pedal assist only vs. throttle? Any other tips about getting the most out of the Add-E, noticed you’re using smooth tires vs. knobby.

David Barroso
1 year ago

Only pedal assist. I have another set of wheels with schwalbe thunder burt (knobby tyres) for off-road use. Tyres with smooth surface work better with the add-e. They have a bigger and better surface and therefore better grip between the metal surface of the motor and the tyre. And also less noise. The add-e when working sounds like an RC toy car :)

Court Rye
1 year ago

Cool, thanks David… I reached out to the company and was told that these Schwalbe Hurricane tires work well for off-road because the center is smooth but they are still wider and have some knobs on the edges for traction.

Michael Craigie
1 year ago

David, I installed the 600w set on my bike yesterday and went for a 15km ride on Map 1. Fairly flat ride with only one 2 short but steep hills. In the course of the ride it wore my brand new Continental Gatorskin tyre right down till the threads are exposed at one point. Do you have any tyre wear issues? Have I perhaps installed it incorrectly do you think?

Court Rye
1 year ago

Wow! That’s intense Michael… I didn’t ride very far during my demos for this review + video but the tires held up alright and they were just basic. Continental makes good stuff so I’m really surprised you’ve had such deep wear. I want to provide some sort of feedback like maybe the motor is too close to the tire but honestly, the design is built to “dig in” to get traction so even if it’s further vs. close you should still have similar force going from the motor to the tire… I really don’t know but am hoping David can chime in and help.

Geir
1 year ago

Love your reviews Court. I have the 600W one too, but its way to noisy so im not going to use it. If you drop your address I’ll be happy to donate it to you so you can do a review (I guess you already have a battery and the stand installed?)

Court Rye
1 year ago

That’s an awesome offer Geir! I’ll reach out :D

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Sergeyt22
6 hours ago

Actually if you know about soldering a bit and can follow simple (but at times weird) instructions you can DIY.

1) Manual and software
2) AVR CAN Module - 36 Euro
3) Pair of connectors - HR30-6J-6P, HR30-6P-6S
4) About of 1.5 hours of time and some luck! :-)

My KTM ecross (250w) has been limited to 25km/h and now it is 35. Technically you can set what ever you like.

Happy (and fast) riding!

Best regards,
Sergey

1/2
Al P
1 week ago

My 250w motor will reach 500w at peak, but even when shifting down, I still have to apply considerable force to get up steep hills. Add to that high speed pedaling while going nowhere. This defeats the whole purpose for buying an ebike. My 500w bike has 750w peak power and climbs steep Adirondack hills with no problem. Even my wife's 350w motor climbs with ease. If it didn't, she would be clamoring for a new bike. I would never buy another bike with a 250w motor unless I lived in a place like southern Florida, where there are no steep hills.

Bformosan
2 weeks ago

Hi guys,
it is my first post on the forum and i would like to promote you our new 12 inches foldable e-bicycle.
we are a manufacturer based in Taiwan with factories both in Taiwan and China.
I will try to be fast :D

here are our main advantages:

in a way that you can still push it when folded ( practical in metro etc...)
250w power
battery in inside the frame ( samsung)
12 inches weels ( 16 inches next month)
25km/h ( charging time 2.5 to 3 hours)
maximum weight 120kg
weight 19.45 kg
distance per charge is 30 to 55 km, depending on how you use it-
using only the motor or pedaling meanwhile

price is 600US$ per piece - if distributor price is negotiable - if 10 persons decide to get it ( we can arrange a price too)- for information, a 20 ft containers can be filled with 63 pieces ( cost around 1500us$ depending on the forwarder which is equal to 24us$ per piece)

if you have any question, do not hesitate to ask wether on this forum or directly to my email
bronek<AT>btc.com.tw

1/4
Manu
2 weeks ago

¿The end the route. .....%battery ?Surprise....sduro trekkin is yamaha 250w assist 25km/h.....the urban s is 350w bosh assist 45km/h.....router 330 meters to 1850 meters....all up up up......the 2 ebikes the end route in same time.....I believe .....the cranck 36 and 48 in ebike yamaha great work. ...

Ravi Kempaiah
2 weeks ago

Ravi - Thanks for the above explanation. I have another related question that I hope you may be able to shed some light on. Bulls in the US specs their Brose s-pedelecs at 350W (28 mph bikes) while the same bikes with the same motor are rated at 250W in their european specs. I supppose that this is more of a marketing ploy and that the motors are identical (i.e., have the same armature - power/torque) and only the firmware is different to increase the cut off point and/or alter the power assist profile. Do you know if this is true? If so, will the recent update result in the same operating efficiency gain for the s-pedelec models compared to the 20 mph models?

Hi Paul,

I apologize, I was not clear in my earlier response.

First, the difference b/w 250W Brose and 350W Brose is, the former is limited to 20mph.

Second, the controller current on the 350W/28mph Brose system is higher than the 250W. I was told 15A in 20mph and 20A in the 28mph (I discussed this with BULLS tech but I don't have a written source to share with you).
If everything is the same, it won't make sense how the same motor achieves higher speed at the same voltage/current values.

As for the firmware update: For a given set of voltage/current, the power output of motor is set by its copper mass/armature. But, this software update is basically updating the brain (controller of the bike).
The controller is built into the motor and with this update, it does change how the controller operates for different input voltage (dictated by pedal torque).

PaulGee
2 weeks ago

@PaulGee ,
Unless the motor armature is changed, it's not possible to boost the power output of a motor for a set voltage. There are some tricks though.
What this update does is, up the operating efficiency of the Brose motor by roughly 3-4%. Also, the way motor responds has been changed via the firmware and as a result, it feels a tad zippy. It's minor though.
So, in short, the maximum power output remains constant but the 4th level does unlock some reserved power from the system.

Ravi - Thanks for the above explanation. I have another related question that I hope you may be able to shed some light on. Bulls in the US specs their Brose s-pedelecs at 350W (28 mph bikes) while the same bikes with the same motor are rated at 250W in their european specs. I supppose that this is more of a marketing ploy and that the motors are identical (i.e., have the same armature - power/torque) and only the firmware is different to increase the cut off point and/or alter the power assist profile. Do you know if this is true? If so, will the recent update result in the same operating efficiency gain for the s-pedelec models compared to the 20 mph models?

emco5
2 weeks ago

..Nice looking bike in your picture!

Thank you. :) In stock form it was an inexpensive 7-speed, but was upgraded with second-hand components.

Does Leeds upgrade their package with a throttle and PAS these days? Makes for a more versatile ride.

Leed has, so far, refrained from adding complexity to their 250w hub systems. For me, that K.I.S.S approach is the value. The PBJ works great as a simple on-demand boost motor with the on/off button. If it had PAS, the motor would be constantly drawing down the battery which would then require a larger/heavier battery. Pedaling a bicycle on level ground is really not difficult, so having electric assist on that terrain is sort of pointless.

A 250w mid-drive with torque and cadence sensing that routes power through the bike's gearing would turn the rear tire with a lot more muscle. With that design, PAS is worthwhile. But, it's much heavier with considerable mechanical and electronic complexity, and several times the cost of a geared hub.

emco5
3 weeks ago

I tend to tinker with bicycles a lot during the dark months. Last autumn, I was tossing around some ideas for a simple power system using an RC LiPo battery pack with a friction drive. I wanted to power a bike but keep it as lightweight as possible. Inspiration came from ‘Kepler’ in Australia who has built some functional minimalist designs. While gathering battery data and sources I came across Leed’s PBJ battery. That mini battery with their Bafang 250 watt geared hub was a far more efficient setup than a friction drive. It was also sorted out... plug-and-play. So, I invested some lunch money and got the PBJ package.

There isn’t much labor involved to install a small front-hub system: replace stock wheel with the new wheel, route on/off switch to handlebars, and mount the battery someplace. I wanted my bike to not look like an eBike, though. So, I spent additional time securing the wires with clear tape instead of using zip ties, and hid the battery/controller unit in a small frame bag. I also laced the motor into a matching rim. https://tinyurl.com/yaekufv7

It worked, and I now have several hundred miles on the bike. Leed claims that the little motor with the PBJ will run for 4 miles. I agree with that. If the route has moderate hills, though, and the power is used conservatively when climbing, expect two or three miles. As I’ve mentioned in another thread, a 250 watt geared hub does not generate a lot of energy, it’s an ‘assist’ motor. A 250w mid-drive is massively stronger for climbing, but the PBJ can’t be beat if you want a stealthy eBike. It can ridden on pedal-bike-only paths unnoticed, but I rarely use the motor on those mostly level routes. Where it shines is getting me back home up a few hills, and then it’s a very welcome boost after a long ride.

Dewey
3 weeks ago

It’s been said that when 'climbing' with hub motors, 50% of their rated top speed should be their minimum speed. That means you’ll need to maintain 7.5mph with a 15mph 250w and 10mph with a 20mph 350w...the 350w will assist you up to about an 8% climb before the work gets challenging...front hub motors less than 500w do not need a torque arm.

Thanks for the information, that jibes with my experience with the 24v 250W kit which ran out of energy half way up a 6% hill, the extra weight of the motor and battery on my already heavy steel bike made it a slog standing on the pedals to get the rest of the way up, so I'm glad the 36v kit provides enough power to properly assist up moderate hills, but it is that extra power that prompted my suggestion for Clean Republic to include a torque arm. Justin LeMire-Elmore conducted torque stress experiments on hub motors and reported a Crystalite 400 series 36v hub motor generated an axle torque of 35-40 NM, about the same as the 38.7 NM drop-out spin-out torque with hand-tightened nuts - fitting a 1/8" steel torque arm increased drop-out spin-out torque to 48 NM with hand tightened nuts. As it is now the kit comes with tabbed c washers, the instructions recommend only installing it on a steel fork, and to tighten the axle nuts with a torque wrench to 28lb/ft. It would add safety redundancy for CR to include an inexpensive universal hose clamp torque arm with instructions to install it with the pivot arm along the back of the fork so force would be directed up to pull the front wheel into the drop-outs in the event they were spread and the axle spin-out, but if it were installed incorrectly the other way round with the pivot arm along the front of the fork that would have the opposite effect and direct force down so perhaps it's better off as it is - they are marketing it as an easy to install Class 2 throttle ebike kit.

emco5
3 weeks ago

When starting on a hill, the Nakto's 250w motor is going to need help. Before you come to a stop, downshift into the lowest gear. When moving off, you may need to stand on the pedals to add rider energy. Without your assist, the motor might get hot and flip a breaker.

You may need to have a bike shop change the bike's rear gears. Better climbing ratios are joy.

emco5
3 weeks ago

> ... the variable speed thumb throttle is much better than the basic
> on/off motor power switch in their 24v kits…..
> ….. it could not pull me up hills and I quickly got tired of having no
> control over the motor other than the on/off switch

24v 250w geared hubs are ‘assist’ motors and don't generate enough power to require a variable-speed throttle. There just isn’t enough headroom between 0 and wide open. A 250w will do frontal assaults up 4% hills without too much rider effort. On steeper grades, you need to assist it. From my experiences, hubs will quickly fall off their power curve if ridden too slowly. It’s been said that when 'climbing' with hub motors, 50% of their rated top speed should be their minimum speed. That means you’ll need to maintain 7.5mph with a 15mph 250w and 10mph with a 20mph 350w. It’s much easier to hold minimum speed with the 350w, and it will assist you up to about an 8% climb before the work gets challenging.

> ….. do they include a torque arm or mention it in the instructions?

The consensus around the net and with the technical crowd at Endless Sphere appears to be that front hub motors less than 500w do not need a torque arm. IMO, the caveat is that an arm isn’t necessary if you refrain from spinning the wheel. The instant shock of regaining traction generates a lot of twisting torque. Wheel spin only seems to happen [rarely] with the 350 on inclines having sandy pavement, or on gravel paths. On both surfaces, though, there is enough slip to prevent traction shock. It would be different if the tire was intentionally spun, then instantly grabbed some clean surface.

Dewey
3 weeks ago

Compared to 250w geared hubs, the 350w was a hot-rod which pulled strongly on hills during my ride.
I'm glad to read about your experience with the 36v version - it sounds like a worthwhile power upgrade, and the variable speed thumb throttle is much better than the basic on/off motor power switch in their 24v kits, but do they include a torque arm or mention it in the instructions? I see they have an FAQ on their website that recommends only installing it on a bike with a steel front fork but they really should include one in their 36v kit. They could add pedal assist but then they would also need to add a cadence sensor, brake lever power switches, and a display, and they want to keep this an easy to install kit that adds just a throttle to your handlebar. I tried a 24v hill topper but returned it after a week because it could not pull me up hills and I quickly got tired of having no control over the motor other than the on/off switch, if I were to buy this again I would only consider the 36v version and I would fit a torque arm. Clean Republic accepted the return and refunded my money without question so I was satisfied with their customer service, and with their Seattle location it was relatively easy to be able to ship the lithium battery via UPS ground.

mrgold35
3 weeks ago

Congrats on the new ride! I've put over 2200 miles since Sept/16 on my Radrover ebike and taken trips to the Grand Canyon and Sedona, AZ. Trailriding can be a ton of fun (especially at night). Helmet, eye protection, suspension seatpost, and very bright lights is all your need to 4X your fun when traveling.

I'm not sure how an average law enforcement or park ranger would know if your bike is Class I/II/III, 250w-3000w, or 20-35 mph unless you tell them? I only know if an ebike has a mid-drive or hub motor and some ebikes have those components well hidden within the frame. I got into the habit of double-checking the city, state, and federal laws on ebikes if I plan to travel. Places like Sedona, AZ, don't allow any ebikes where MTB/road bikes on bike only trails because they consider them to be motor vehicles. The Grand Canyon has a little more flexibility and you can ride on the trails away from the main south rim viewing area.

I've even thought about the option of riding in ebike restricted areas without my battery inserted turning my Radrover into a +60lbs regular bike. Unfortunately, the gearing would make it hard to pedal out of 3rd gear unless I have a tailwind or going downhill.

Alex M
4 weeks ago

At that price you better make sure it fits. Test ride is a must.

I wouldn't fixate too much on Kalkhoff. Yeah, well, hydraulic brakes, no big deal considering small 250W motor. Its battery isn't awfully big 400WH. There is no free lunch in physics and mechanics. Small motor draws low watts, keep it on the lowest PAS level and it draws almost nothing, that's why those impressive 127 miles. Your muscles will be responsible for 100-110 miles out of those 127 :)...

There are other step-through frames that are more readily available. IMO, any step-through with frame under 17" should work for your height.

Linda Baer
4 weeks ago

There are other Kalkhoff dealers in the US. Here is one in So Cal, and I'm sure there are others: https://electricbikecentral.com/collections/kalkhoff-electric-bikes.

Ebikes are niche market, overpriced relatively to production costs, and expensive ebikes are a smaller market yet. Call Kalkhoff.

Agreed on recommendations to avoid rear-rack battery (if possible). On the Kalkhoff homepage in the section "US/AUS Models" the Impulse 8HS isn't listed. They must have renamed it. There are similar models with battery behind the seat post: http://www.kalkhoff-bikes.com/en/bikes/2017/e-bike/e-city.html.

I don't see anything in their line-up with really upright position, with wide swept-back cruiser handlebars. Though probably more upright than what you're riding now.

120 miles range? Maybe. Keep in mind that it's mere 250W motor.
I put a call into them to see if they can help me. This search is becoming exhausting. :(

Alex M
4 weeks ago

There are other Kalkhoff dealers in the US. Here is one in So Cal, and I'm sure there are others: https://electricbikecentral.com/collections/kalkhoff-electric-bikes.

Ebikes are niche market, overpriced relatively to production costs, and expensive ebikes are a smaller market yet. Call Kalkhoff.

Agreed on recommendations to avoid rear-rack battery (if possible). On the Kalkhoff homepage in the section "US/AUS Models" the Impulse 8HS isn't listed. They must have renamed it. There are similar models with battery behind the seat post: http://www.kalkhoff-bikes.com/en/bikes/2017/e-bike/e-city.html.

I don't see anything in their line-up with really upright position, with wide swept-back cruiser handlebars. Though probably more upright than what you're riding now.

120 miles range? Maybe. Keep in mind that it's mere 250W motor.

TruTru9
4 weeks ago

Hello EBR,

I hope this is the right section. My brother is getting the Raleigh Redux IE as his birthday gift. I was wondering what kind of after-market customization I can do to make the ride more comfortable.

1) Court recommended the BodyFlow on his review, so we will have the shop get that.

2) What about tires? Is it possible to put a thicker tire on this bike? Current size is 27.5x2.0. Any tire recommendations? 99% of the ride would be on the road and sidewalks and some potholes :D

3) No gears? My brother had an opportunity to ride a bike with nuvinci harmony setup where he didn't have to think about changing gears. He is on the autistic spectrum and the less things he has to focus on while riding, the better for him. What's the possibility of having a setup like that with the Redux IE?

Any and all comments are welcome!

Here are the bike Specs
Battery 36V Li-ion, 13.8Ah, 496.8Wh
Display LCD multi-functional display
Max Assisted Speed 28 mph (45 kph)
Motor 250W Brose Centerdrive system, 90NM of torque
Range Estimated 35-80 miles
Frame AL-6061 Custom Butted Aluminum, City Geometry
Fork Light alloy fork, thru-axle
Cranks 44T steel, narrow-wide
Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore
Shifter Shimano Deore 10spd
Brakes Shimano M365 Hydraulic Disc, F180/R160mm Rotors
Cogset Shimano HG62, 10spd (11-32t)
Rims Alex MD21
Tires Schwalbe Big Ben, 27.5x2.0"
Handlebar Alloy 31.8, W:640mm
Stem TranzX Anti-Shock, 31.8 Lengths: 80/90mm
Seatpost TranzX Anti-shock, 31.6x300mm
Seat Velo Raleigh
Headset VP Integrated
Chain KMC X10e EPT
Front Hub Novatec 15mm thru-axle
Rear Hub Novatec 12mm thru-axle
Spokes Stainless
Grips Raleigh Grips

harryS
4 weeks ago

Have you got a way to put wires on the connectors? You got to do 4 of them and they have to be stable and not come off while the bike is bouncing around on the pavement. These batteries are space inefficient with that tower sticking up. I've seen guys make holes in a bopard and stick the towers in the holes.

Finally the AH won't add up like you thought. The total AH rating for a composite 36V battery made out 4 of these batteries will be 10AH if the individual pack is 5AH. In addition, they might not put out the current you need without shutting down.

It's not a good solution.

I've played around with the bigger Ryobi 40V lawn tool batteries. Like this one from my weedwhacker.

Although it says 40v, it's really a 36V battery in the ebike world. Home Depot charges $130 USD for the 5Ah, 180 watt-hr version that I have. Then you have to get the charger, and make a clip to get the wires onto the battery. I did all of that and made a secure setup. First few tests, the wires would pop off.

I found this battery will power my 36V 250- 500W motors well in pedal assist mode, but blipping the throttle would cause the controllers to want 10-20A, which would shut off the battery. Then it would rest in a minute. So that meant it worked best for my littlest 250W motor with a tiny controller. I could get almost 20 miles out of it with pedal assist at 14 mph.

So this is not a good solution either, but I already had the battery/charger. It does say that the smaller drill batteries won't handle your power surges at all. This battery is used for lawn mowers and chain saws.

Oh, I'm taking it as a spare on a 37 mile ride tomorrow. My regular battery should cover 25 miles, and if I am too tired to finish with leg power alone, I can swap this one in.

Mike's E-Bikes
4 weeks ago

Bill, this is some odd choice to compare. Other than step-through frame, Evelo Luna and Blix appear to be very different bikes.
250W for hilly terrain will be a pain. Especially when US bylaws allow +500W.

I tend to agree with Mike - other than NuVinci transmission, there isn't much to justify $2,500 price for Evelo in basic configuration. You can get similar assemblies for under $1,500 if you're OK without NuVinci :).
Check Upzy online store: https://www.upzy.com/collections/rigid-frame-electric-bikes/1000-2000+x-treme-scooters
The other problems with these Evelo Aurora's include really weak kickstands, that break into two, or twist and collide with your foot, or bend in the middle, so the bike easily falls over (problem with top heavy battery over wheel design), and the battery casings are very prone to leak, so whatever you do, avoid all water and rain on any Evelo. The casing is really flimsy, and have had one crack, and if you ever have to take apart the battery housing you can forget about being able to get it back together again, since the very cheap clips, that hold the screws, will bend and mis-align, rendering the case useless. Also the battery cord on the back of the battery, that removes when you need to lift out the battery does not stay in very tight, and if you just barely hit it when lifting your leg to get on the bike it just falls right out. Also will fall out if riding on rough trails, so be prepared to duct tape it to stay on. Soooo attractive to use duct tape to hold the battery cord into the battery. Who uses a cord like that anyway ?? To boot, they want an absurd $550 for just this plastic casing with batteries slapped inside, for just 36V10AH, and then freaking $1200 for a 48 V, 14.5 AH battery. By comparison, you can get a much better quality metal casing, and 17 AH Panasonic battery from Blix for ONLY $660. Its sort of sad to see how many poorly designed parts are on this brand of ebike. I mean its stuff you might expect to see on a $999 ebike. Not on a $3400 ebike like the Evelo costs. or $2400 for a luna. Also, when it was caught in a rain storm on a return trip, in the back of a truck, less than a day later every single allen screw, showed immediate rust in the head, and rust around many other bolts. So clearly no stainless steel or chromed parts here, or even the most modest amount of rust protection. Again very low quality chinese parts on this brand of e-bikes. Bike Parts should not rust that quickly after only once getting wet. Maybe on a walmart big box Huffy brand bike you pay $200 for, but not a $2500 to $3500 ebike. Come on man. Something is very wrong here.

Alex M
1 month ago

Bill, this is some odd choice to compare. Other than step-through frame, Evelo Luna and Blix appear to be very different bikes.
250W for hilly terrain will be a pain. Especially when US bylaws allow +500W.

I tend to agree with Mike - other than NuVinci transmission, there isn't much to justify $2,500 price for Evelo in basic configuration. You can get similar assemblies for under $1,500 if you're OK without NuVinci :).
Check Upzy online store: https://www.upzy.com/collections/rigid-frame-electric-bikes/1000-2000+x-treme-scooters

emco5
1 month ago

> Luna does not allow 250w motors on the premises, only wow factor wattage’s.

Luna sells the Xiongda 2-speed hub which is 250 watts.
https://lunacycle.com/double-gear-double-torque-motor/

> Not too many people here would willingly limit themselves to 250W, if given a choice

If you are talking about 250 watt hubs, I would agree, but a lot of people can't afford more.

The US market is blooming with OEM bikes running 250 watt mid-drives from Bosch, Shimano, etc, and people are buying them. The power output and efficiency from these mids is changing perceptions about 250 watts.

Pete B
1 month ago

There is a bike for sale in the UK called the Cyclotricity Stealth which has either 500w or 1000w electric motor, yet the bike is road legal in the EU. It's sold in the default mode of 250w, restricted to 25 km, but by tapping in a code on the LCD display, the bike's motor is unrestricted for off roading, (purchaser must sign waiver) and they say can reach speeds of 32k. So i'd say it's probably possible to reprogram the CC 350w motor for the European market based on that.

Mike's E-Bikes
1 month ago

I have no experience with the Luna, but I have been riding my Evelo Aurora with the Nuvinci 360 for two years, and after 1900 miles, have not experienced any of the issues mentioned above. The 250w motor is slightly underpowered for steep hills and I would recommend the 500w option. Other than that, I have found the bike to be well-made and very comfortable to ride. It also has a step-thru frame like the Luna. They offer the Aurora in two sizes. The Aries is basically the same bike without the step-thru frame.

I have found the company to be very responsive. They will send you parts under warranty if you are able to do the repair. If not, they will arrange for a LBS to handle the repair at no charge to you.
Good that you have had a decent experience. I own 10 Evelo's, including the Luna's, Aurora's (both 250 and 500 watt), and Aries. The best test of reliability, and maintenance, is to put them in a rental fleet. Done that for 2 seasons now, and as well have other brands to compare. They are just really heavy e-bikes, with rather mediocre components, and rather old style metal frames that have been around in Asia for a number of years. These same Aurora's (Evelo's) are sold under the Aseako brand, and can be bought for $1400 (USD) new in other countries. So for what you are getting, there are just a lot better other brands for less money, more reliable, better and newer frame styles, much lighter yet with better structural rigidity, and components that don't wear down or are as fragile as those found on the Evelo's. In other brands like Blix more of the money is actually going into the design, and more reliable components, better quality batteries, better battery management controls, LCD's, etc. than into marketing, overhead, G&A, distribution and profit. If I just bought a single one of these, and just had that to compare to, I'd likely too want to defend my purchase and expense. But since I have owned several brands, and ridden more than 40 different brands/models, and seen first hand what it takes to keep these maintained in regular every day use, it puts my experience in a more objective position. Evelo is really just a marketing and distribution arm, not a true designer or engineer of the ebikes. They choose what is available from a contract manufacturer, maybe spec out a few certain components they want on the ebike, and then bring them here to the US to distribute direct on line. Nothing wrong with that, but just realize that its a lot to pay for a rather mediocre and old and heavy ebike design versus other true e-bike designers that have an engineering team, R&D, and are continually investing in better product. There are other firms that have that same/similar distribution model as Evelo, such as M2S, Shocke, and even Magnum, as you can find their same designs from a number of contract manufacturers in Asia (just look on Alibaba.com). They often start out as Kickstarter, or Indiegogo, to raise money for an ebike thats already an older design on the Asian market, claiming new development, when in reality its just white labeled standard product. That up front money allows them to then buy the Minimum Order Quantity these contract manufacturers want up front, before they begin sourcing and assembly. So not a really 'new design' of an ebike, but rather a marketing pitch, where individuals become sort of their VC funder. Reduces their capital risk, and they can shut down or go out of business at any time, re-appearing under a new company name. Hopefully Evelo will succeed and stay in business.

Al P
1 month ago

I have no experience with the Luna, but I have been riding my Evelo Aurora with the Nuvinci 360 for two years, and after 1900 miles, have not experienced any of the issues mentioned above. The 250w motor is slightly underpowered for steep hills and I would recommend the 500w option. Other than that, I have found the bike to be well-made and very comfortable to ride. It also has a step-thru frame like the Luna. They offer the Aurora in two sizes. The Aries is basically the same bike without the step-thru frame.

I have found the company to be very responsive. They will send you parts under warranty if you are able to do the repair. If not, they will arrange for a LBS to handle the repair at no charge to you.

Jai's Media
2 weeks ago

Gearless direct drive !> Erm the wheel is the gear with friction drive not 'Direct drive' get it right or why bother do a review!
Have you mentioned the power waste through compressing the tyre when engaged ?

Rıfat Erdem Sahin
1 month ago

Great video will it work on foldable bikes and on hills?

Matt Walls
2 months ago

pretty pricey considering the quality is meh!

Freeflight Paragliding
2 months ago

Thank you, well explained and presented video.

Peter Kenyon
5 months ago

Because it spins in contact with the tyre, how much wear is there on the tyre? I remember similar products twenty plus years ago and the rate it wore the tyre was incredible. Wasn't worth the expense.

Don
5 months ago

+Peter Kenyon . You are absolutely right. Regarding this particular product, our experience shows need of one road Tyre (Michelin 700x28) every 51 km, meaning 0.46 € per Km. If the motor follows... Because it is terribly fragile.

james hester
6 months ago

Anyone know of the most inexpensive solution for a e bike add on? Don't care about looks or weight just need power and range.

mike x
6 months ago

250volts may work well for 250w-500w motors so you could use 1amps continuous discharge current on low 2.5 or 5ah capacity battery packs which would keep discharge current on cells low

Rick Kern
7 months ago

This could be excellent as just booster power for getting up hills. Most people cruise just fine.

Don
5 months ago

+Rick Kern . Come on Rick, as an add-e's pawn, you perfectly know that it can't climb a hill. It heats up and gets damaged. It's even written in page 30 of it's manual § 8. So on the way up the hill one should stop and check the temperature of the motor by hand... Stop fooling people you guys, there is an end to every deception.

Eric Piepers
8 months ago

Your hand reminds me of Spiderman.., but nothing comes out of yours.. :-D

Jimmy Walker
8 months ago

What is it like on wet roads

Bharath Naik L
9 months ago

Hi, What is the speed that I get if I add 250w motor to my fat tyre cycle ? Which one is good for fatbike ? 250w or 500w or 1000w ?

subhash nayak
9 months ago

can i use it in my Hercules A500

SilverPower
9 months ago

trop de bruit

Adventures with Jerry
9 months ago

what about weather resistance. i live in Michigan we get lots of rain and snow how is this going to hold up to that.

cold productions
10 months ago

Can I use it on a beach cruiser ?

Rocky
11 months ago

+Pavle Pavlovic Well observed. I 100% agree with your coherent comment. It is true that this product is a real CRAP in every aspect. Considering changing the tier every 30-35 miles, and the battery (300 $) every 6 month and what you have to pay meanwhile to the vendor for repairing because it is a poor quality material and not secured, makes that buying a real and serious electric bike will certainly save you a lot in wallet, nerves and Asprin expenses.
PD: Probably Add-e will soon report your comment as spam, like other similar ones we don't see anymore. :-)

Don
12 months ago

Is there anyone who knows where to find an official technical specification sheet for this thing, like in every toy, drill, fan box or whatever electrical?
A copy of certification, registration (company and product), governmental security approval, declaration of conformity?
Because when I ask Add-e on their channels, they don't reply and delete my requests!
Thanks

Don
12 months ago

+ElectricBikeReview.com
Thank you very much, I'll indeed ask ELV Motors.
PS: It is uncomfortable not to find any trace of this product in European registration institutions, when they pretend it's made in Austria.

ElectricBikeReview.com
12 months ago

Hmm... I don't know? You could reach out to ELV Motors in Santa Clara California. They carry the Add-E and might be able to provide the details you're looking for :)

Marco Antonio
1 year ago

as I can get it in Chile????

Its All Too Beautiful
1 year ago

Cost?

20082002 00
1 year ago

What if you hit a shit with the wheel

Don
1 year ago

You hit it by buying one of those, anyway ....