Electric Bike Outfitters EBO Commuter Kit Review

Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter Kit Review
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter 350 Watt Geared Hub
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter 36 V 11 Ah Lithium Battery
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter Led Console Trigger Throttle
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter Controller Box
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter Front
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter Kit Review
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter 350 Watt Geared Hub
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter 36 V 11 Ah Lithium Battery
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter Led Console Trigger Throttle
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter Controller Box
Electric Bike Outfitters Ebo Commuter Front

Summary

  • An affordable, all-inclusive electric bike kit available in many wheel sizes (front or rear) with a nice one year warranty
  • You get a standard 350 watt internally geared motor, 36 volt Lithium-ion battery pack and a trigger throttle
  • No display console or pedal assist modes come stock with this kit, just a simple LED power meter and throttle mode, EBO has several upgraded kits and can sell custom packages
  • Predominantly available online but finding their way to more and more dealers in the United States

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Video Review

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Introduction

Make:

Electric Bike Outfitters

Model:

EBO Commuter Kit

Price:

$704

Suggested Use:

Neighborhood, Commuting

Electric Bike Class:

Throttle on Demand (Class 2)
Learn more about Ebike classes

Warranty:

30 Day Return, 1 Year Comprehensive

Availability:

United States

Model Year:

20152016

Bicycle Details

Battery Weight:

5.5 lbs (2.49 kg)

Motor Weight:

6 lbs (2.72 kg)

Gearing Details:

9 Single Speed or Shimano 6 or 7 Speed Cassettes or SunRace 8 and 9 Speed Cassettes

Brake Details:

Mechanical Wuxing Levers with Motor Inhibitors

Rims:

Aluminum Alloy, Double Walled

Spokes:

Stainless Steel, 36

Wheel Sizes:

16 in (40.64cm)20 in (50.8cm)24 in (60.96cm)26 in (66.04cm)27.5 in (69.85cm)28 in (71.12cm)

Accessories:

Optional Twist Throttle, Optional Cadence Sensor with 3 Mode LED Console and Controller for $31 at Time of Purchase or $105 Later (Because of the Additional Console and Controller)

Other:

Rear Motors Cost $25 to $50 Extra, Dropout Widths Front: 100 mm, Rear 120 mm or 135 mm, Brake Clamp Diameter 22.2 mm, 14 Amp Controller

Electronic Details

Motor Type:

Front-Mounted Geared Hub, Rear-Mounted Geared Hub
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

350 watts

Battery Voltage:

36 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

11 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

396 wh

Battery Chemistry:

Lithium-ion

Charge Time:

5 hours

Estimated Min Range:

15 miles (24 km)

Estimated Max Range:

35 miles (56 km)

Display Type:

LED Console

Readouts:

Battery Charge Level (Red, Yellow, Green)

Drive Mode:

Trigger Throttle

Top Speed:

20 mph (32 kph)

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Written Review

The EBO Commuter is the most affordable kit (at the time of this review) from Electric Bike Outfitters. This is a relatively new electric bicycle company based in Denver Colorado. The first things I noticed were the excellent price and all-inclusive setup. Unlike some kits, this one doesn’t tease you with a “battery not included” price tag. For well under $1k you get a modest motor and mid-mounted Lithium-ion battery that will take you 15 to 20 miles per charge and work on most traditional bikes. You can choose the wheel size from a wide selection of 16″, 20″, 24″, 26″, 27.5″ and 28″ which means folding bikes, kids bikes, cruisers, mountain bikes and city bikes will all work! The one hangup here is the slightly wider hub design that might not fit all fork widths, consider the EBO Phantom if you’ve got a single speed city bike because that hub was specially designed to be narrower and avoid scraping. Also, as you consider this kit, ask yourself whether you want pedal assist because it can be added for just $30 but costs over $100 after the fact (because it uses a different controller). This is the only kit from EBO that doesn’t come stock with assist and for many people that will be fine but your thumb might get a little tired after longer trips.

Powering the bike is a generic 350 watt planetary geared hub. It seems like the front-mounted design is a bit quieter but they both produce a bit of whirring noise and endure more wear than a gearless direct drive hub. The big benefits are small size, good torque at lower speeds and light weight ~6 lbs. The Pure City demo bike I was riding in the video review above weighed just 45 lbs with the kit installed! That’s pretty good… and the pricetag for the bike plus kit was under $1,200 making this a very affordable ebike option. Even though the motor you get here isn’t the most powerful and might not be the highest quality, it does offer a lot of value and you get an awesome all-inclusive warranty with the bike so that gives me peace of mind. Considering that it is a kit, you could also probably pick up a replacement on individual parts in the future should one fail.

The battery pack on the EBO Commuter electric bike kit is a mix of good and bad. The upside is that it’s downtube-mounting which improves weight distribution, frees up the rear portion of the bike for adding a rack and fenders and is pretty well protected by the frame. I like the canister design, it has a built-in LED charge level indicator and seats well once you’ve screwed the mounting bracket into the bottle cage bosses on your bike (your bike must have bottle cage bosses on the downtube for this kit to work). The downside is that while this battery pack is removable (for lighter transport and convenient charging) taking it off and putting it back on is a pain. Most downtube batteries (including those on the higher-end Electric Bike Outfitters kits) just click in and make contact with metal prongs, on this kit you have to manually screw the power cable into the battery and the space for getting your fingers in there and twisting the metal ring is very limited… It’s a pain but if you just leave the pack on and charge while mounted you’ll never have to do it.

Operating the EBO Commuter system is extremely simple in its stock form. You charge the battery, mount it and attach the power cable then click the on/off toggle switch at the base of the battery pack. Next you press the red button on the LED console near the trigger throttle and it lights right up. At this point, you can use the variable speed trigger throttle to your heart’s content. It can reach up to ~20 mph but also does well at lower speeds. I found myself juicing it from standstill then easing off once I hit a speed that felt comfortable for pedaling. Honestly, I think my thumb would get tired after too much riding with a throttle like this, especially given the grip style gear shifter on the right bar… this made the reach to the throttle a bit further and required more energy for me. You can screw around with the throttle position and find the perfect fit and as mentioned earlier, you can also upgrade to pedal assist but that requires more installation time and effort as well as an LCD display.

This e-bike kit is all about simplicity and in my opinion it’s a winner. While the ~$500 Pure City Bourbon that the demo kit was installed on felt great and had a lot of extras including an 8 speed derailleur, fenders, rack, nice grips and a comfortable swept-back bar… you could easily find a bike at Walmart with similar features for under $200 and get yourself a sub $1,000 electric bike that would work just fine. Keep in mind that this hub motor design is wider than the EBO Phantom and that you don’t get pedal assist stock but otherwise you do have the nice color coded wires that are easy to setup as well as upgraded brake levers with motor inhibitors. All kits tend to add a mess of wires to the bike so I usually go for black or dark colored frames that help them blend in. You’ll probably extend more time and effort with a rear-mounted kit but that’s usually my preference for traction and improved steering… especially if you have a weak suspension fork.

Pros:

  • Color coded wires are easy to setup, the motor cable has a quick disconnect point that makes servicing the wheel (front or rear) much easier
  • You get brake levers with integrated motor inhibitors here which could come in handy if you upgrade to pedal assist (much more affordable to do when you buy the bike ~$30 vs. later since it uses a different controller)
  • I like trigger throttles because they are easier to fit with existing grips and twist shifters, they also perform better for off-road use because they don’t compromise your grip, this one worked well but you can upgrade to a twist throttle if you prefer
  • Available in a huge assortment of wheel sizes including 16″, 20″, 24″, 26″, 27.5″ (650B) and ~28″ (700c) so you can convert folding bikes, kids bikes, road bikes, mountain bikes etc. and they all cost the same
  • Relatively light weight with the battery at ~5.5 lbs and the motor ~6 lbs so you aren’t going to end up with a heavy ride
  • The mechanical brake levers are compatible with traditional designs as well as disc brakes and the motor has a mounting pattern for use with a disc brake rotor

Cons:

  • Generic motor and battery cells might not last as long and produce a bit more noise under power but are still covered by the one year warranty
  • Basic LED display panel won’t show your precise battery level, speed, range or other details that the higher end kits will
  • The battery pack clicks into the holster easily but has a screw-in power connector that can be tricky and time consuming to connect, it also takes up most of the space where a bottle cage would mount… consider a saddle rail adapter, rear rack with a bottle bag or a hydration pack
  • The controller unit is built into a separate box vs. being integrated into the battery mount or motor, this just means more things have to be screwed onto the frame and possibly more wires
  • If you decide to upgrade and get pedal assist, it will require more effort to install and the units I saw only had a five sensor disc which isn’t as responsive
  • You have to power the battery pack on as well as the display unit to get the bike going… this adds a bit of time to each ride but also makes it easier to forget to turn the battery pack off when you park

Resources:

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cyclist2009
2 years ago

What are the dimensions of the battery?

Reply
Court Rye
2 years ago

I’m not exactly sure, this would be a great question to email Electric Bike Outfitters about because sometimes cases change and I reviewed their models last year.

Reply

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Bike moose
3 hours ago

I have https://electricbikereview.com/e-rad/350-watt-mid-drive-conversion-kit/ in an Origin 8 Crawler. For the last few weeks, I've had problems with the PAS. It will cut out then spike to near max output. It will do this several times with little to no delay in between. After a while, it would start working properly. I noticed it today throughout my ride and I think it may have something to do with the cold. Monitor claims it was -2c even though the water on the ground was liquid, so it was probably more like 3-5C. Anyone know if cold temps can affect the PAS sensor. This is my first winter with an eBike.
--I'm having a similar problem with my Pedago Commuter. It seemed to start at around 40 f when stored in shed. I then put it in a semi heated shed and it was better until the temperature dropped some more. Does anyone have any ideas?

Gary R Peacock
23 hours ago

Thanks for the info. I just came from High Peaks Cyclery in Lake Placid where I looked at the Giant Quick E+. It looks pretty nice but did not test drive it because we just got several inches of snow and the roads are super messy. Does anyone have experience with this model? It is billed as a commuter bike but the folks there said it would be good for Adk hills. Thoughts? I feel pretty good about Giant, in general, because both Plattsburgh Lake Placid have good service depts.

Alan Butters
3 days ago

Purchased new in October 2013. Very low miles. Lithium battery properly maintained with regular charge intervals. Bike is in excellent condition. Only one small rub mark on lower chain stay. My wife has Cystic Fibrosis and doesn't ride very often, so hoping someone can use this as a commuter bike or similar. I plan to purchase a Geo Orbital wheel for one of my road bikes for the rare occasion when she decides to ride.

Johnny
3 days ago

Happy to share which local shop got me the deal. It may be more of a YMMV type situation... According to the LBS - this bike was sent to them due to an error by haibike/distributor. Rather than go through the return process and ship it back, they were able to take a discount on their cost if they instead kept the bike - which they then passed onto me. They used this as a leverage to convince me to buy the bike the same day they were suppose to send it back.

Maybe all of that is just a story to close out a deal quicky - or maybe not. I think it is an OK price. It may be possible to do better if one waits longer? I think there is a lot of margin on these bikes.

I am suppose to pick it up sometime this week. Once things are finalized on my end, happy to put you in touch with my sales rep. It is a socal dealer. Don't want to jeopardize my deal ;)

:) I didn't mean to snatch it from you sorry if it sounded like that. I am actually looking at a different fs model and if possible I wanted to price match with my local shop.

On the other hand that is a model which I liked a lot and I am really happy that you are getting it at a great price(honestly I think you are getting just as good of a bike as the trek commuter with that one). Enjoy and it would be great if you tell me about your opinion on how it rides.

KidWok
3 days ago

Got my ST1 LE 19 months ago and have put on 6k miles so far. Last year was the wettest year on record in Seattle for quite some time. It was pretty obvious that the fenders wouldn't be long enough so I added mud flaps, as I have many times before on road and commuter bikes. I quickly discovered that speed pedelacs kicked up the water fast enough that the water stream atomized on contact with the mud flap. Over the last year, I've revised my mud flap design multiple times and now have one I'm really happy with. Here's how they evolved:

Version 1: Used the long side of an orange Tide laundry bottle and attached it to black plastic fender plug with two M4 bolts and lock nuts. As noted, high speed water spray atomized on contact, enveloping feet and drive train in a fine mist that flushed the lube out of the chain after any short amount of time on wet pavement.

Version 2: First tried folding the flap so that water impacted at an angle, which didn't noticeably help. Then drilled some holes to add a series of vertical strings (chalk line) along the inside of the flap. The idea was for the strings to wick the water down, which helped a little. This assembly started getting heavy and version two ultimately disappeared when the black plastic fender plug fell off mid-ride.

Version 3: Stromer sent me another plug. The plug has a small hole in it, presumably for water to not collect in the fender cavity. I drilled a 1/8th inch hole just above that on the inside of the aluminum fender so that I can run a small zip tie to make sure the plug is firmly attached (picture attached...you can barely see the pink zip tie covered in road crud). This time I also wanted to lengthen the flap so I used an old water bottle (LDPE) and the long section of another detergent bottle zip tied together, mostly because the orange looks good with the blue on the LE. This worked fairly successfully for some time, but the wind eventually blew back the flap so that it was flying almost horizontally. That actually was fine because it was enough to protect the drive train and I had started commuting in Hunter Chelsea rain boots. However, the LDPE bottle was repeatedly creased where it attached to the plug and eventually broke off mid-ride. The plug stayed put thanks to the zip tie.

Version 4: Now I'm using two halves of the water bottle (LDPE) for the top, connected to both inside and outside of fender plug. This creates a very rigid top half that keeps the lower flap in line with the fender. Played with various materials and have found that HDPE from a gallon vinegar bottle is light, durable, and flexible enough to be scraped and knocked around. Middle section of vinegar bottle where label is attached yields two flaps, but at this time I'm still only running a front flap because I don't care about spraying behind on my commute. In addition to vertical lines, I've now added a pair of zip ties horizontally in the middle of the lower HDPE section, which holds the curvature of the flap and elevates the lines off the plastic. This dramatically reduces the amount of mist at high speed as it seems the gap between the lines and the plastic create a pocket for the disrupted/decelerated spray to mix with any remaining mist and exit downward. Version 4 pic attached.

Version 5: Needed a flap for the rear due to towing my son around on a trail-a-bike, so I took another LDPE bottle and the other half of the HDPE to make another flap. Once more, the flap is attached to the fender plug with two M4 bolts and the plug is zip tied on to the fender body. Having realized that a large gap between the strings and the plastic lower flap greatly reduces mist, I decided to run the strings horizontally with holes drilled along the side edges, instead of vertically as before. This serves to both hold the flap in a eye pleasing parabolic curve and maximized the de-misting pocket. Am now running version 4 on front and version 5 on rear. Version 4, with its vertical endpoints at the bottom of the flap has always collected a bunch of leaves, dead worms, etc. Version 5 clearly stays cleaner and does a better job eliminating mist. I ran out of vinegar again today, so the front flap has now been updated as well (pictures attached).

This has been a fun design challenge and I hope it helps other speed pedelac owners get the most out of their bikes year-round.

Tai

1/4
JayVee
4 days ago

All other things being equal, which would be the better hill climber and to what degree is the difference? I'm referring to the Super Commuter 8 which has a rear cassette assembly, vs the Super Commuter 9 which has the Nuvinci internal gears. I guess I'm asking which has the lowest gear, or are they equal?
Thanks,
Rich

I used the Nuvinci + Bosch Performance combo for a month (replacement bike) and have also used the Bosch Performance drive with a cassette when I swapped e-bikes for a weekend with a colleague. Both e-bikes were 28mph iterations. The N380 bike was a Swiss made Flyer, whereas the 'cassette bike' was a Haibike Trekking Xduro S 5.0.

To answer your question, the cassette has a wider range of gears. I'll spare you the ratio math and simply narrate my experience. With the Nuvinci N380 I had trouble climbing hills above 12% grade and I even managed to stall a couple of times around 15% grade. With the cassette driven Haibike, I climbed an average 18% grade hill containing a short but steeper 22% grade section. It was tough but still doable. I weigh 220 pounds and am moderately fit.

I could not tell you exactly at what percentage grade you will start having trouble with the N380 because that depends on your fitness level and weight. But if you frequently need to climb hills above 12%, I would recommend staying with the cassette. Otherwise the N380 iteration will be more a lot more fun to ride.

A tip if you get the N380: you can easily shift to a lower gear ratio under load going uphill. But it's sometimes more difficult to twist 'to a higher gear' when gaining speed. The trick is to back off pedalling for a second whilst you shift. It makes the experience a lot easier on the hands if you tend to get blisters. This was the main issue I encountered.

Ken M
4 days ago

How fast do you ride, Ken ? When I ride around town 28 is about it for me with a fatbike. I can see with a commuter bike and good roads, maybe a little faster. Riding faster than that in a urban situation, is a little crazy to me.

Good question. There is actually some studies on average riding speed for people that own Class 3 45kph speed pedelec in Europe. They average around 20mph/32kph so that data can make people think that there is no value to having a faster bike. Most of time I'm commuting (not stopped at a light) I'm cruising at around 23-25mph/40kph (my PIM/Polaris eBike assist ends at that speed so it's a comfortable cruising speed. But there are some long stretches I go faster but essentially on under my own power and I'm on the road where it would be nice to get up to 35mph/50kph crusing speed.

I have Schwalbe Moto X 27.5 x 2.4 tires on this bike and they provide the performance and handling that make higher speeds feel comfortable/safe. Just because an eBike has the capability to assist up to 50kph doesn't mean responsible riders are going to be running over pedestrians (although I would prefer they walk in the grass :-) ) and running slower riders into the ditch (although like some bad drivers inevitably they end up there anyway). Anyway, I'm just joking around but when you are commuting approx 15 miles each way as often as possible (my bike does not replace my car) having the higher speed capability does save time. IT'S IMPORTANT! Bizarre that Europe has Autobahns with crazy high speeds for cars but they think bikes should be literally manufactured with speed limitation build in (I guess the conservatives were thrown a bone on that legislation as that is the only explanation I can come up with as to why they did this - sorry conservatives but you did fight to keep the highway speed limits here in the US at 55mph....thankfully you lost that debate...your scared of speed, I can respect that so stay in the slow lane and let me pass).

TForan
4 days ago

As stated, if you like to ride slow and care most about hill climbing performance a mid-drive is the best solution. If urban commuting is the priority where time is money then speed matters and hub drives are simply a better drive system.

I have a saying .... "If you don't want to ride faster than 20mph, then walk." I don't work in the public sector so when I'm commuting on a bike I have to consider my commute time - I'm self employed and time is money.

http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/why-hub-motors-are-awesome.html

How fast do you ride, Ken ? When I ride around town 28 is about it for me with a fatbike. I can see with a commuter bike and good roads, maybe a little faster. Riding faster than that in a urban situation, is a little crazy to me.

Eglon
4 days ago

I’ve already got a pair of Origin8 Captiv-8er 26x3,5 tires ready, not even going to mess with the Kenda tires since I’m planning to run this bike on paved roads only. We’ll see how it stacks up against the Haibike as a daily “urban assault” commuter. Also, I’m planning to run tire liners with this as well. It’ll make the wheel assembly heavier, but I’d rather deal with heavy wheels than flat tires.

Other upgrades that I have waiting are:
Ergon grips and saddle
Bodyfloat Seat post
Crank Brothers Stamp pedals

Essentially I’ll be duplicating all the touch points on my current commute setup to the HyperFat.

Anyone else planning upgrades?
I agree that the heavier tires aren't that big of a deal. I put 8oz of slime in each tube of mine. A little weight is sooo worth not getting flats. I'll be curious about the BodyFloat. I've been thinking of getting one of those as well.

hurricane56
5 days ago

I’ve already got a pair of Origin8 Captiv-8er 26x3,5 tires ready, not even going to mess with the Kenda tires since I’m planning to run this bike on paved roads only. We’ll see how it stacks up against the Haibike as a daily “urban assault” commuter. Also, I’m planning to run tire liners with this as well. It’ll make the wheel assembly heavier, but I’d rather deal with heavy wheels than flat tires.

Other upgrades that I have waiting are:
Ergon grips and saddle
Bodyfloat Seat post
Crank Brothers Stamp pedals

Essentially I’ll be duplicating all the touch points on my current commute setup to the HyperFat.

Anyone else planning upgrades?

e-boy
5 days ago

OHM City Comfortable Commuter
https://ohmcycles.com/e-bikes/city/

Johnny
6 days ago

I am someone who recently returned biking after 2 years. I have a trek hybrid that I like riding and I usually use it for commuting too (around 20 miles round-trip). I can climb hills and I am kinda fit however I like to extend my range and sometimes I don't want to sweat too much in my commute.

At first I was planning to switch to a road bike then I realized that I also want to go to trails every now and then and I want some assurance that even on the days that I feel a little worn out I can still ride. So I have been having many thoughts about e-bikes.

Although I have an understanding on the electrical components (I used to build RC planes and in that hobby you deal with lipo batteries, speed controllers , chargers etc a lot) when it comes to bikes I don't know much.

I do know that I want to keep getting my exercise (so I don't want a throttle, I want some pedal assist at times to increase my range and provide convenience) and I also want to be able to completely disable it and still ride the bike without getting resistance from the motor.

I have two main options:

1. Getting a e-bike conversion kit for my current bike. I searched for a kit with torque sensor however I couldn't find and sellers in the US. If I ordered from China then the price is still too high to risk it. If someone can point me to a US based kit with torque sensors I can give it a try.

2. Just getting an ebike which is a pain altogether. I didn't know that there were so many small manufacturers. I am more into getting into a well known brand like Trek, Giant etc. since even the cheaper options (which on paper they look great value) are between 1.5k-2K,

Here are some of the bikes I had in mind,

- Giant Road E 1 https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bikes-road-eplus, I really like a road bike and this seemed great at first but then again, it will be heavy and although I love dropbars I don't know how much of a bike I am getting and how much I am paying for the motor system.

- Trek Crossrip+ https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/electric-hybrid-bikes/crossrip/crossrip/p/1373000-2018/?colorCode=black, seems to be a e-cyclocross then again 4.5K price and the frame looks like an entry level model.

Now that I realized that I don't have many choices in road/gravel type e bikes I began considering more hybrid like bikes,

- Trek Super Commuter, https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/hybrid-bikes/electric-hybrid-bikes/super-commuter/super-commuter-8s/p/1367000-2018/?colorCode=red, again too expensive and does not seem to be designed for agility or fitness.

- Giant Quick -E https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bikes-quick-eplus, looks to be a much better choice compared to super commuter both in design and price.

The real problem is since bike is so heavy does it really matter to go for a solid fork ? I am seriously thinking about getting a bike with front suspension like the ones below.

- Trek Powerfly https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/mountain-bikes/electric-mountain-bikes/powerfly/powerfly-5/p/2914600-2018/?colorCode=grey_black

-Giant Explore https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/explore-eplus-3 , this one at $2.350 is priced very nicely seems to have some trail capabilities.

- Haibike hard seven https://wheelworld.com/product/haibike-sduro-hardseven-4.0-297072-1.htm

I don't know how Haibike stacks against the Brand bikes. I also don't know if the front suspension e-bikes will be good commuters on the road. It seems like since weight is not as big of an issue with e bikes the companies can still make durable bikes at those price ranges.

I also don't wanna pay $3K + for a bike since it is still a bike I don't really like to spend that much.

I will be happy if I can get some help.

richiebike
1 week ago

All other things being equal, which would be the better hill climber and to what degree is the difference? I'm referring to the Super Commuter 8 which has a rear cassette assembly, vs the Super Commuter 9 which has the Nuvinci internal gears. I guess I'm asking which has the lowest gear, or are they equal?
Thanks,
Rich

Paul Cavasino
1 week ago

Today I went to the local Pedego shop and rode the City Commuter and the Interceptor. I wanted to ride the Platinum Interceptor as well, but they said that they didn't carry that, though they could order it for me. That was kinda disappointing because I wanted to try an ebike with hydraulic brakes and compare them to the normal disc ones.

Maybe because it was my first time on an ebike but I was rather nervous at first due to the speed but also neither bike felt like it had stopping power. I was struggling to stay still on a hill and wound up falling by accident (at walking speeds). At the end of the hour period I did feel alot better but just disappointed about the brakes. Or maybe it was totally normal.

This could be due to a few reasons:

Haven't ridden a bike in a while (though this was on the second bike at around 40 minutes into riding)
I test rode the bikes that they use for rental so they were a little beat up.

TL;DR

I couldn't try a bike with hydraulic breaks and i wanted to see if anyone felt that it was worth it. If it is then I will probably wind up buying the Juiced CrossCurrent S since that has the hydraulic breaks and it has a torque sensor (which i couldn't test out) although i'm taking a risk since the forums seem to have mixed feelings about the quality and service of the CCS. If normal brakes are fine then I will just by the Pedego City Commuter since I can take it to the local shop for maintenance and issues.

Thanks!
Yes,...We own 2 Pedegos, his & hers,...( City Commuter & Step thru-Interceptor),...& Have Immensely Enjoyed Our Biking Adventures for 2 Years Now !! GO PEDEGO,...they're rated one of the most reliable EBIKES out there !!

JohnT
1 week ago

Big news! I’m at our Pedego dealer meeting this week, and we were introduced to a few interesting new models! I’m not going to get into details, but I thought people would be interested in a quick overview. I’m going from my notes and from memory, so don’t be surprised if I get something wrong.

“Elevate” - A full suspension eMTB with Shimano Steps mid-drive, and plus size knobby tires. Class 1, pedal assist only, no throttle.

“Conveyer” - A solid street ride with a Brose mid-drive, Gates carbon belt drive (Conveyer belt, get it?), Shimano Nexus 8 IGH, and plus size street tires. No chain and no derailleur! Class 1, PA only, no throttle.

City Commuter Mid-Drive - Basically what I said, it’s a City Commuter with a mid-drive. The interesting thing is that it has a throttle, but it only activates while the pedals are moving. Like all City Commuters, it has PA. I’m not sure whether this makes it Class 1 or 2.

City Commuter Black Edition - This upgrades the regular City Commuter similarly to how the Platinum Edition upgrades the Interceptor. This means front suspension, torque sensing pedal assist, hydraulic disc brakes, and Shimano SLX for smooth shifting. The trim is blacked out.

Dual Motor Stretch - The Stretch is our cargo bike. In this version, a unique controller splits power variably between a torque wound rear motor and a speed wound front motor, resulting in both more torque and better efficiency while keeping the total power under 750w!

Another exciting development is that we’re going to be integrating some “smart” technology into our bikes. I’m not sure which are are going to be available when, so I won’t discuss them today, but at least one model will have built in GPS for anti-theft and navigation!

Most of this is available now, and some will be available soon. I can’t wait to see Court review the new bikes!

Dewey
1 week ago

Do any of you receive a $20-per-month bicycle commuter benefit?

No, I work in DC which has a law requiring non-profit employers with >50 employees provide some sort of cycling benefit, my employer chose to provide discounted membership to Capital Bikeshare, which is great but doesn't help those of us who ride our own bicycle to work. I have been lobbying HR for 2 years to adopt the cycling commuter benefit, among peers in the DC area the NIH, FCC, HUD, EPA, NSA, and American University provide this option for their employees. Congressman Earl Blumenhour has put forward a bill for this benefit every year in the past. This fall I spoke with the right HR person who promised to raise it at the next employee benefits meeting only for this benefit to be cut in the tax-bill. Big sigh.

hurricane56
1 week ago

I was seeing the Xduro prices yesterday of about $3500. Maybe they will come down more. But I like your thinking. If you're testing the waters and think you might upgrade in a few years - and particularly because your commute is shorter - then the IZIP sounds like a great way to go (although I don't have experience with IZIP). It would be nice if you could find a local dealer for that IZIP however. You'd definitely want to test it out.

It’s always a balancing act between waiting for more of a discount and having it now with your preferred frame size. last year the commuter oriented bikes were in stock well past the new year.

hurricane56
1 week ago

If this is going to be short distance commuter, 20mph Class 1 bike will work. If you ever need the higher top speed, the Yamaha drive could possibly be unlocked via plug-in tuner.

The iZip E3 has a better front fork, RockShox Paragon vs the SunTour model on the Haibike. I feel the Yamaha drive unit is more popular than the TransX.

As far as the class of ebike, I think nobody cares at the moment as long as you're not being a jerk with speed or crazy in traffic.

shivas
1 week ago

I'm curious, I know a lot of folks here use their bikes to commute to work. Do any of you receive a $20-per-month bicycle commuter benefit.

I just got an email from people for bikes stating in part:
"Over the weekend the U.S. Senate passed their version of a new tax bill that eliminates the $20-per-month bicycle commuter benefit. This is a tax-free reimbursement that employers can pay their employees for expenses related to bicycle commuting."

Seems they left no stone unturned in their zeal to account for every nickel and dime. (Trying not to be political in my wording.)

Bryan995
1 week ago

Hi All,

I've recently moved, and now have the opportunity to bike commute (previously I lived 0.5 miles from work, so I walked)

New commute is 4.5miles each way, with a large hill in the middle.

Looking for a well-built commuter bike that can be used daily and or taken on local paths, to grocery store, etc etc.

Live in sunny CA, so little risk of cold/rain. Per CA law, class 1/2 look to be the most permissive. Class 3 is banned from bike paths (not bike lanes).

I've narrowed things down to two bikes.

2017 HaiBike Trekking 4.0 (20mph, class 1)
2017 Izip E3 dash (28mph, class 3)

Working with both a local dealer and a remote dealer.

After some negotation, I can get the Izip E3 via remote dealer for ~$1550 OTD or the Haibike trekking for $2200 OTD via local dealer.

Does the Haibike command a $700 increase over the iZip in anyone's opinion?

Is there another key bike I am leaving out?

Thanks !

AdamC
1 week ago

I guess I wouldn't expect a $1000 bike to last very long as a commuter bike. It's going to take a lot of maintenance to keep those cheap components working. Expect some upgrades soon, like better saddle, better tires, better sealed bearing pedals, better grade brake pads, etc...... It's a pay us now, or pay us latter deal.

From what i can gather about the bike everything seems to be ok quality...better than wally worls. The bottom bracket if cup and cone i can change myself. Id say its on par with my normal bike.. Which i am very happy with.

mrgold35
2 weeks ago

I have two his/her Rad Rovers since Sept/16 with around 3800 miles between both ebikes. The Rad is equally comfortable work commuting at 18-22 mph or single track trail riding. I'm +270lbs and add in 60lbs Rad+30lbs gear, rack, commuter backpack, and accessories. I've had zero issues with the 180mm cable brakes stopping me in emergency stops or on steep down hill runs at top speed. I think the 4" fat tires have a larger contact patch on the ground that helps with stopping power compared to thinner tires. Some folks have upgraded the cable brakes to a cable/hydro combo from TRP HY/RD.

My range is usually between 24-30 miles using mostly PAS 3 with occasional PAS 4 on longer inclines and occasional 750w throttle use for intersections, boost up to cruising speed faster if I had to slow down, or short inclines. I've gone as far as +36 miles with around 10%- 20% battery power if I kept the PAS at level 2 and my speed around the 10-13 mph range. The Rad's heavy duty controller is designed to give you max power until the battery is depleted. The Rad will haul you up that hill, push you through that sand trap, and maintain your speed in a +20 mph headwind because of the programming. The tradeoff is the battery range will be cut by 1/2 or more if you want speed/power over range. I can almost use 60%-70% battery power on my 6 miles work commute home (4900ft to 5400ft) when I have a +25mph stiff headwind and I want to maintain my +18 mph cruising speed.

If range is an issue, you can purchase an extra battery from Rad Power Bikes or Luna Cycles:

48v X 11.5ah = 552 watts (standard Rad battery)
48v X 13.5ah = 648 watts (my pick for most bang for the buck)
52v X 11.5ah = 598 watts
52v X 13.5ah = 702 watts

The Rad rover's battery tray is standard and the 48v and 52v Dolphin packs fit plug-n-play with zero mods to frame or controller. You have to purchase a 52v charger if you go the larger volt route (the Rad 48v charger will work for the 48v/13.5ah Luna cycle pack). Depending on how you use the 52v battery pack, it can give you even more off the line power/faster acceleration/more hill climbing power and longer range.

rich c
2 weeks ago

I guess I wouldn't expect a $1000 bike to last very long as a commuter bike. It's going to take a lot of maintenance to keep those cheap components working. Expect some upgrades soon, like better saddle, better tires, better sealed bearing pedals, better grade brake pads, etc...... It's a pay us now, or pay us latter deal.

Paul Cavasino
2 weeks ago

My 2015 PEDEGO City Commuter is The Most fun on 2 Wheels !!

1/4
DrZarkloff
2 years ago

I can't find anything that will allow me to convert my 32 inch Kent.

Flo Mo
2 years ago

Your videos are great. Thank you. :) More and more people ride e-bikes.... maybe they view your videos. :) COOL.

Jay Gurung
2 years ago

Hey Mr.Court,can you do the review of the EasyGo Race by BH EasyMotion please.

Flo Mo
2 years ago

Very good video. I like your channel. And this bike looks like old school. I like it. Cheap and nice. Very good. Thank you. :)

mn3m0n1c
2 years ago

Would be nice if manufacturers consider integrating control unit with battery pack. One detachable box would be a lot more convenient to carry when it comes to leaving an e-bike unattended in not too safe area.

ForbinColossus
2 years ago

I looked at BionX, eRad, Copenhagen wheel, Belon Electron - all of which have quirks and limitations. Confusing array of choices - none offers it all - where do you want to compromise? I lean slightly towards the copenhagen wheel for ease of setup, assuming the company gets it sorted out.
For anyone thinking of a kit, be sure to look at EBR's website and use the *compare* feature.
http://electricbikereview.com/tag/kits/

Eskil Eriksson
2 years ago

+ElectricBikeReview.com What made it for me was the mid drive, the opportunity to use the gears on the bike for both torque and high speed.Being able to do both hills and good speed on the flats is perfect for me.

ElectricBikeReview.com
2 years ago

+ForbinColossus Yeah, even the kits that seem to nail most of the features end up being more expensive which is a big trade off for people. I personally really like BionX for a full kit setup because you get assist, throttle, several size and power options, battery size options, regeneration, integrated lights if you want etc. but they cost so much... The all-in-one solutions are cool and I really like the Zehus and FlyKly for simplicity but then you don't get gears... so the Copenhagen Wheel seems like the winner but then again it still isn't out, it only comes in red, limited wheel size options, no throttle mode and the battery isn't removable and has yet to really be proven in the motor like that. Lots of choices, but at least that means lots of potential for finding something perfect for your needs ;)

Jonathan Seagull
2 years ago

Golden Motor Canada 1,000 watt motor, built in controller, variable speed throttle etc with Lithium battery is under $1,000...buy torque arms tho.

ElectricBikeReview.com
2 years ago

+Jonathan Seagull Ha! Yeah... those larger motors can be pretty strong. Electric Bike Outfitters has two direct drive hubs at 500 and 750 watts (the Mountaineer goes 30+ mph and is more of an off-road thing). These cheaper kits are cool to keep things light and discreet ;)

R Valdez
2 years ago

Please do a review on "add-e" or "go-e" kit.

ElectricBikeReview.com
2 years ago

+R Valdez I'll keep an eye out for sure! Got a bunch more Daymak and Electric Bike Outfitters kits at the moment and a website redesign :D keep an eye out... thanks for the suggestions.

Eskil Eriksson
2 years ago

I have the same battery, and the connection is a big downside. Unless you can keep the battery on the bike most of the time, due to no extreme temperatures.

ElectricBikeReview.com
2 years ago

+Eskil Eriksson Hmm, glad to hear you've had the same experience with the plug, thanks for your feedback. Seemed like a big hassle to me but their other kits click right in without the screw bit so they're way more convenient if you're willing to pay a bit extra.