Electric Bike Outfitters EBO Front Range Kit Review

Ebo Front Range Electric Bike Kit Review
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range Kit
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range Gearless Motor Cassette
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range Battery Pack And Controller
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range Led Console And Twist Throttle
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range 500 Watt Direct Drive Motor
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range Battery Lock And Power Button
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range Controller Box
Ebo Front Range Electric Bike Kit Review
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range Kit
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range Gearless Motor Cassette
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range Battery Pack And Controller
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range Led Console And Twist Throttle
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range 500 Watt Direct Drive Motor
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range Battery Lock And Power Button
Electric Bike Outfitters Front Range Controller Box


  • A powerful gearless hub motor kit capable of being installed as a front or rear wheel, sturdy and relatively quiet
  • Gearless motors tend to be heavier and this one is ~12 lbs and does not offer a regeneration option for regenerative braking
  • The display console is more basic (LED lights vs. an LCD screen) but also takes up less space, the kit comes stock with trigger throttle but has a twist throttle as an opion
  • Quality Samsung cells in the battery pack, larger capacity at 14.5 amp hours, solid one year warranty on all parts

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National eBike Shops

Electric Cyclery
900 N Coast Hwy
Laguna Beach,  CA  92651
Propel Bikes
134 Flushing Ave
Brooklyn,  NY  11205

Video Review

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Electric Bike Outfitters


EBO Front Range



Suggested Use:

Urban, Trail, Commuting

Electric Bike Class:

Throttle on Demand (Class 2)
Learn more about Ebike classes


30 Day Return, 1 Year Comprehensive


United States

Model Year:


Bicycle Details

Battery Weight:

7 lbs ( 3.17 kg )

Motor Weight:

12 lbs ( 5.44 kg )

Gearing Details:

9 (Single Speed or Shimano 6 or 7 Speed Cassettes or SunRace 8 and 9 Speed Cassettes)

Brake Details:

Mechanical 5 Brand Levers with Motor Inhibitors


Aluminum Alloy


13 Gauge Stainless Steel, 36 Spoke

Wheel Sizes:

26 in ( 66.04 cm )27.5 in ( 69.85 cm )28 in ( 71.12 cm )

Tube Details:

Schrader Valve


Female USB Charge Port on Battery Pack, EBO Quick Connect Anti-Water Wiring, Optional Black or Silver Motor Color, Optional Black or White Battery Color, Optional Twist Throttle, Optional Wuxing Twist Throttle


Compatible with Disc Brakes or Caliper Style Brakes (Clamp Diameter 22.2 mm), Compatible with 100 mm, 120 mm, or 135 mm Dropout Sizes, Compatible with 26", 27.5" or 700C Wheel Size, 22 Amp Controller

Electronic Details

Motor Type:

Front-Mounted Gearless Direct Drive Hub, Rear-Mounted Gearless Direct Drive Hub
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

500 watts

Battery Brand:


Battery Voltage:

36 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

14.5 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

522 wh

Battery Chemistry:


Charge Time:

5 hours

Estimated Min Range:

25 miles ( 40 km )

Estimated Max Range:

45 miles ( 72 km )

Display Type:

Fixed LED Console


Mode (Low, Med, High), Speed (5-33 MPH), Charge Level (1-4)

Drive Mode:

Trigger Throttle, Twist Throttle, Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist

Top Speed:

20 mph ( 32 kph )

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Written Review

The EBO Front Range Kit is a mixed bag for me. I appreciate the more powerful 500 watt motor but given the gearless direct-drive design it weighs more than the more affordable planetary geared kits. Gearless motors are said to be tougher (no gears rubbing inside) and often allow for regenerative braking but that isn’t an option here. What you get is a relatively affordable, medium-power ebike kit. It operates quietly and should last well (you get a one year warranty which is great) but the display is more basic and there’s not throttle-only mode which can come in handy for off-road riding on bumpy terrain.

Even though the Front Range kit is compatible as a front or rear wheel motor, I would almost always choose to put it in the rear. The added weight in the front would definitely impact steering and might even spin out on loose terrain. At the rear, you get a more solid mounting point (especially if you’ve got a suspension fork up front as the demo bike I tried did) and you’re still balancing some of the weight forward with the downtube-mounted battery. The battery is actually one of my favorite parts of this kit because it uses quality Samsung cells, offers more capacity than some of the smaller kits and is easy to remove or lock onto the frame. This pack style is called a “Dolphin” and it can power your bike as well as a USB accessory given the female port on the right side. I’d mostly use this off the bike as a backup power source because when you’re pedaling it’s easy to snag this are of the pack (and any protruding USB plug and wire) with your shoe or leg.

I accidentally snagged the power cable running to the motor on this kit during the video review above and that goes to show how cable management can be a chore on any ebike kit. It’s nice to have your cables all zip tied up but even the best cable management can still look a bit tacky… that’s why all-black frames are a good choice because the cables blend in more. In addition to cables, this kit also has an independent controller box which can be mounted to the seat tube or possibly a rear rack. It’s just one more thing to deal with and it completely takes up the space for any kind of accessory or bottle cage when paired with the downtube style battery.

Overall, this is a solid package but generic gearless motors aren’t my personal preference. I’m a light weight guy who likes to pedal so I tend to opt for geared hubs or mid-drives. Some ebikes like the Stromer ST2 and Specialized Turbo show off what’s possible when you go high-end gearless because their motors are light, fast and offer regeneration but you’ll spend quite a bit more for that performance. I feel like the EBO Front Range motor could benefit from a 48 volt battery here to take full advantage of the extra copper windings inside but as it stands you’re going to get more power and drive than with some of their lighter kits. For true power however, I’m more excited about the EBO Mountaineer for just $100 more.


  • There’s a built-in female USB port at the top right portion of the battery pack and this can be used to power a phone or other mobile device while riding the bike or as a backup source of power off the bike
  • Solid value at just over $1k considering you get a powerful 500 watt gearless motor and an oversized 14.5 amp hour battery! Most ebike kits offer 350 watt motors with a 10 ah battery, the cells on this bike are also Samsung and I trust that they are higher quality
  • Not only does Electric Bike Outfitters offer a one year comprehensive warranty, they also provide a 30 day money back guarantee and in my experience have been very willing to do custom swaps to get you the right wheel size or a different throttle unit (twist vs. trigger) free of charge or for very little money
  • Great wiring hardware (color coded makes it easier to setup and repair), the 5 Star brake levers are more generic but they do include motor inhibitor switches to cut power whenever you barke
  • Pedal assist is great for conserving the battery and getting some exercise and three modes is alright but I love that you’ve also got a throttle that can override at any time to help power up a hill or pass a fellow cyclist
  • The hub motor design on this kit is compatible with disc brakes but you can also use standard rim brakes as well, the one thing that requires a changeout is hydraulic brakes because the included levers only work with mechanical systems, you could use hydraulic levers of your own but if they don’t have electronic brake inhibitors built in you won’t be operating as safely (especially given the “all the time” pedal assist design)
  • The kit comes in several configurations to replace a 26″, 27.5″ or 700c wheel, to fit a 100 mm, 120 mm, or 135 mm dropout, and to work as either a front or rear wheel drive kit (though I’d highly recommend rear given the weight of the motor so as not to adversely impact steering)
  • The battery pack snaps on and off easily and quickly for convenient charging or lighter weight transport, you also get a solid locking core built into the battery for when it’s mounted to the frame
  • Especially for trail and mountain use the default trigger throttle works very well as it does not compromise your grip though it might take more space on your bars than the twist throttle (I just don’t like full-grip twists)


  • I like the USB charging port but it’s positioned on the side of the battery which makes it easier to bump with your leg when pedaling or to snag the wire… would be better on the top or front end of the pack vs. the side
  • The controller unit for this kit is built into a separate black box which adds clutter to the frame and means more wires have to be dealt with
  • On the demo bike I filmed and photographed above the battery was mounted to the downtube using the stock water bottle cage bosses and the controller box was fit onto the seat tube so there wasn’t anywhere to add a bottle… Consider an aftermarket saddle rail adapter, a rear carry rack with bottle bag or using a Camelbak
  • The LED console offers several readouts (mode, charge level and speed) but is still more basic than an LCD which could show trip distance, time, max speed etc. the unit they chose is fairly small, tough and more affordable so it’s not too bad
  • The battery pack has an independent on/off button built into it which has to be activated before the display panel is turned on, this extra step makes the pack easier to leave on accidentally and can be confusing if you forget and try to activate the bike just using the display
  • There are no lights built into this kit and I think it would be difficult to wire them in, I like when I can run everything off of one battery but you can always get some aftermarket lights that are rechargeable if you ride at night a lot
  • While the cadence sensing pedal assist worked alright, it only uses a five magnet system vs. 12 on a lot of newer builds and kits I’ve seen which means it is less responsive (especially in higher gears where pedal rotation can be slower at low speeds)
  • Gearless motors are very durable and operate without producing much noise but they do weigh more and this one is ~12 lbs, the battery is also a bit heavier because it’s a larger capacity pack so ~7 lbs
  • Sometimes gearless motors offer regenerative braking which can extend rides by ~10% but that feature was not included with this kit (likely to keep the price down)
  • There is no throttle-only mode with this kit, you have to enable one of three pedal assist settings in order to use the throttle and this means that any pedal movement can also activate the motor which could cause instability for some applications
  • The pedal assist sensor is not a clip-on design so you actually have to remove the crank arms in order to mount it, once it’s on however it feels solid and is actually quite responsive


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4 days ago
Eddy Rush
Nirmala - Thanks for your input.

I have actually today been looking into a hardtail MTB option with a suspension seat so thank you for those ones you recommended and for the info RE the mid-drives - duly noted
Yes, a mid-drive with a wide range of gears should also mean that 250 watts is enough for your needs. A very fit racer can put out 1-200 watts steadily with peaks up to 500 watts. A nominal 250 watt mid drive motor would have a peak output of about 500 watts also. So basically, an electric bike makes it feel like you have Lance Armstrong pumped up with steroids on the back end of a tandem as you pilot the front end! For the most part, the folks who need much higher power motors are really speed freaks who want to go faster than a lower power rated motor can manage. But for assistance on hills on a more relaxed leisurely ride, 250 watts should be plenty....again especially if those watts are going in through the bike's gears.

I have a thudbuster on my hardtail ebike and it definitely soaks up the bumps compared to a solid seatpost.
4 days ago
You might consider either a fat tire bike or a suspension seatpost like a thudbuster or bodyfloat, or even both, instead of a full suspension ebike. With the kind of use you are describing, a full suspension may be overkill and does generally add to the overall weight (and price) of the bike, while a suspension seatpost will add a fair degree of comfort similar to what you get with a full suspension. Fat tires add even more comfort (and weight) but they do reduce the range. With your maximum range of 15 miles or so, you should still be able to easily cover that much ground even with fat tires on your bike.

In general, mid-drives work better for long or steep hills as you can use the gears to allow the motor to work in its ideal range. Hub motors can sometimes overheat or bog down on hills, whereas with a mid-drive, you can shift down just as you do on a regular bike, and the motor can keep working at or near its ideal speed of RPMs. This would seem to be especially true in the UK given the limits on overall power of the motor. Some mid-drive sytems even still have two front chainrings for an even wider range of gears for the motor (and your own legs) to work with. On a very long or steep hill, you will probably still need to pedal some to keep a bare minimum of speed, but again shifting down will protect your own knees as well as the motor.
4 days ago
I think since the Radrover is a Class II ebike with a 20 mph top speed, the gearing is made to support that speed limit. I have a decline of 5400ft to 4900ft on my work commute and can reach speeds up to 23 mph in PAS 5 with watts at 000. Even if I had additional taller gears, I think I can only maintain the +23 mph on a decline anyways because the bike is so heavy and the upright riding position. That speed feels pretty fast to me on a bike considering I only have a helmet and my instincts to avoid cars, road debris, obstacles, and occasional non-attentive driver on public streets. I think I wouldn't want a Class III bike with a +28 mph top speed and skinny tires for that reason.

I kinda learned to pedal to around 60 rpms (+- 5 to 10 rpm) and keep my watts as low as I can when possible regardless of mph as the most comfortable speed to travel. That can be sometimes at PAS 3-4 and/or 4-6 gear depending on how level the terrain, type of wind, conserving battery power for +25 mile ride, how crowded the roads/trails are, or how tired I feel. I find myself only using PAS 5 in short burst or on long declines to keep my mph +20.

You also have the option of entering the LCD screen set-up options (press and hold the up/down arrow at the same time and use the mode button to scroll the options of tire size, motor cut off, LCD brightness, and km or mph setting). The second screen is the motor cut off speed and it should be set to 32 k/hr (20 mph). You can adjust the motor cut off in 1 k/hr increments from 12 k/hr (7 mph) up to 40 k/hr (25 mph). You might be able to adjust the motor cut off speed for the right pedal feel in PAS 5 on level ground where it doesn't feel like a hamster on exercise wheel. I set mine to 35 k/hr (21.7 mph) and that feels like the right rpms for me, maintains my speed, and keeps my watts low when commuting.

The Radrover is really tail heavy, I have a rack+bag with panniers, I wear a commuter back pack with work cloths/warm weather gear/lunch, and I'm 6'3" and around 270lbs with winter gear on in the morning. The extra tail heavy weight (and top heavy for me) usually isn't a problem for straight level commuting. I can feel it when riding the dirt single track trails (sometimes take detours after-work to ride the trails before heading home). I've learned to lower my seat a little on the trails and that helps when I need to shift my weight back and low on steep declines and try to keep the bike balanced for traction. On inclines, I learned to lower my gear, stand up and lean forward, bring my torso down to change the center of gravity for front/rear balance and rear traction, and slowly apply the throttle when needed when heading up steep inclines (PAS is usually in 2-3 when trail riding). I added a thumb throttle from Amazon and that makes it easier to maintain my grip and regulate the throttle power much better than just the twist action. You can really teach yourself a lot about how to handle the heavy Rad on trail riding you can't get from paved bike or street riding. I'll say to hit the trails over and over until you can ride them by memory almost.

I think the battery is doing a double function of showing its capacity at any given time and showing the load on the cells during high power comsumption. I've seen the battery indicator down to 1-2 bars at PAS 5 when I'm just 100 yards from my front door. Once I level out and get to cruising speed, it jumps back up to 4-5 bars depending on the incline/decline. When the hub is accelerating (especially hard in PAS 4-5), I think it is showing the amount of power being consumed. I try to concentrate more on the watts than bar % readings. If I can keep the watts at or below the 200-350 mark on average in any PAS level with occasional 500 watt or less peaks, I know I can get +30 miles from the battery. Consistently above 500 watts with more +650 watts peaks and plateau will drop my range by half. I wish our controller was smart like some ebikes that give you a distance till empty indicator depending on PAS level; but, I didn't want to spend $3000-$5000 just for that and end up in the same place.

My front and rear brakes squeak like crazy on both bikes. I don't know if it is the pad, rotors, or my fat butt. I will be checking into upgrading the pad material first and then rotor second down the road.

The new full Radrover fenders are very nice; but, a little too expensive since I have two bikes (have the original RR fenders). I don't like to ride when it is wet, snowy, or muddy out and the fenders choice I have work to keep road debris and occasional mud clump from hitting me (rear rack also keeps stuff from hitting me). Another issue I have is my vehicle platform bike rack (Saris Freedom SuperClamp 4) secures my bikes with a front/rear arm on the top of the tires right where the new longer fenders covers the tires. I don't think I could secure my bikes enough for transport just using the top of the fender?

You might want to check out a suspension seat post from Thudbuster, Cirrus body float, or Suntour NCX SP-12. I also added a larger seat from Sunlite called the Cloud-9 (it is 12.5 by 11.5 and very comfy). I'm also playing with PSI and leaning towards lower PSI on trail riding of 15-18 and higher PSI on commuting of 20-25. Still experimenting to find the right combo and sweet spot for both types of surfaces.
Curtis Paddock
1 month ago
Ravi Kempaiah
BULLS is introducing Lacuba EVO E45 this year in the US market. This is one of top end commuter offerings from them along with a host of other Bosch Pedelec/S-pedelecs.

I have been anticipating this bike for sometime and quite excited about it. Brose system is one of the smoothest and this bike comes with the new speed engine. Their pedelec version runs on 250W motor but this one is 350W, speed engine. Perfect for anyone who likes to pedal.


View attachment 10295

Attention to details and top of the line components make it a top contender for anyone looking for a well-balanced S-pedelec commuter.

I will highlight what I like in this bike.
  1. Quality components. Shimano XT shifters, derailleurs, both front and rear hubs are Shimano XT. Tektro Dorado hydraulic brakes with 203 mm !! rotors. Well, that's an overkill for commuting but why not?!

  2. B & M brake light + a decent headlight but they run off of the main battery. Ergon GP1 grips, adjustable stem and upright riding position. Reminds me of OHM bikes' geometry.

  3. 36V, 17.5Ah BMZ pack with 4A charger. Much better than 400Whr offered by Bosch. But because it runs at 36V, expect some voltage sag. This drive is perfect for stop and go traffic. Range ~ 45-50 miles.

  4. Of course, the water bottle cage! Kickstand, mirror. E-bike specific tires for extra puncture protection. Overall a fully featured commuter.
Now, what looks good on paper may not always translate to real world performance. But, this bike has the same engine that you would find on Specialized Turbo Vado. Why would Specialized engineers pick that engine if they were not convinced of its performance?

Finally, price point! I think the MSRP is ~ $4500. You may spend $700 on a bike and call it a complete waste of money or spend $5000 and think it's a great value. Totally depends on the use and for commuters, this bike would be a great choice.
Thanks Ravi, I have been zeroing in on the evo 45 for my first ebike/car replacement. I love that it has every feature I would want in a ready-to-ride package. Probably will add a Body Float and still stay under 5K. Moving to San Diego in 30 days and can't wait to test drive one. Alooooha!
1 month ago
Welcome TPA, these are MY opinions regarding your situation. The eco bikes you selected are not suitable for a 20 mile commute, no way no how! I think these are death traps on the road, the small wheels will be very unstable. A pot hole of any size will be an instant catastrophe. 20 miles at 20mph takes a pretty decent bike with moderate power, especially with little or no pedal assist. A quality battery alone will run you $500.

With your $800 budget you could: get a decent used bike, a craigslist special- $150, A front geared hub motor kit $400, and a battery (an inexpensive one) $2-400 range. Put it all together and get the job done. Your expectations are borderline unrealistic. Don't cheap out, your safety is on the line.
2 months ago
I'm 6'3" and 265 lbs (down from 287 lbs when I started biking again at the end of summer). I've had pretty good luck with my 2016 Radrover. I added a larger Sunlite cloud-9 seat 11.5 X 12.5 size and a Suntour NCX SP-12 suspension seat post. I didn't have to adjust anything else for a comfortable ride. The longest ride I've taken with my ebike was 36 miles at PAS 3 and my legs gave out before the battery did (just under 20% battery life). I use the ebike mostly for commuting to work 13 miles round-trip on paved main and side roads. I'm probably 290-300 lbs with cold riding weather gear, large back pack, Topeak Rack bag with Panniers, work cloths, lunch, and cool weather gear for the afternoon.

It is mostly a drop in elevation to work of 5400 ft down to 4900 ft and I maintain speeds between 20-23 mph at PAS 5. My speed range heading home is between 15-17 mph at PAS 3-4 depending on how stiff the headwind is that day. I have no problems maintaining 18-19 mph at PAS 3 on level ground (again, any headwind will drop my speed).

One thing I really like about my 4" fat tire bike is it can transition from paved road, bumpy dirt lots, dirt trail, rocky trails, mud, and sand on the same ride. If you are planning to ride at all in the sand, fat tires with low PSI make it possible.

Which ever ebike you pick, I would plan to upgrade the seat post to a suspension type like thudbuster, cirrus body float, or Suntour NCX SP12 (assuming it is not a full suspension bike). I would also lean towards a bike with:
- front suspension forks
- larger tires to fat tires if possible to smooth out the ride more (cracked paved road are very bumpy at 15-23 mph)
- PAS and throttle
- opt for a larger battery capacity if available because you and I seill always use more e-power because of the extre weight
- plan on upgrading the seat and seat post. My seat Suntour seatpost is 27.2mm/400mm long. A 350mm lenght will work; but, you will be at its max height if you have long legs.
- make sure the bike comes with or has places to add accessories like water bottle(s), fenders, and racks.
2 months ago
Of course another option is to get an ebike with two or three chainrings in the front, and let your legs give you the added range. Then you can save your battery for the really big hills.
2 months ago
I can't suggest a lower psi for you but I can give you an example based on what I personally use and how I arrived at what works best for me.

The only good low psi you can run is what works for you ultimately without pinch flatting all the time. As that article suggests wider tires run at low psi don't do much to rolling resistance especially on an e bike one would assume. I see that stock tires on an ST 1 are 26x2.15 but there is no spec for the inner width of the rim which you can guesstimate by measuring the outer dimension and subtract a few mm for the rim material. I haven't run 26" wheels for a long time but when I did on my mtb I would use in the low 40's IIRC on i19-25 rims for mtb use that also included road riding.

For this type of bike I am using rims that have an interior dimension of 23-25 mm.

View attachment 13103

Previously rims of this width were used primarily on mtb's with 2.0 tires and up. But fat bikes and now plus bikes and gravel bikes have shown that wider rims can be used for them to achieve lower psi. I first came to this conclusion myself 3 years ago when I ended up with a set of wheels that had i35 rims and after mounting them on my mtb with my 2.1 tires on them and doing the air test as described below I was amazed to see that my new psi was 15 whereas before with the same tire on an i20 rim it was 30.

To that end I use 40-45c tires (1.5-1.6 approx) that I inflate to psi in the low 30's front and rear. I have done this both tubed and tubeless with good results and no noticeable increase in rolling resistance over if I run them at a higher psi but with a marked increase in comfort and traction. Tubeless is generally considered a way to be able to use lower psi as it won't pinch flat but it takes the correct tubeless system rim/tire combo to work properly. It can be done what is called the "ghetto" way but that has never been worth it to me over just using a tube. But now that I am with the tubeless program I find it easy to use and am phasing out tubes altogether. I still carry one for emergency use though!

I am a little under you in body weight at 195 lbs. and I have never weighed my bike but it has to be in the 50 lb range. A good test that you can do is to letting a little air out at a time from your standard psi ride around the block each time letting out a little more air and go until the ride starts to feel squirmish. Check that psi with a gauge and as a starting point add 5 psi to it and inflate to that psi which should be pretty close you your lowest possible psi. It is ok to use more in the back than in the front if you feel the difference during your air out testing but I find it doesn't make that much difference once you find your optimal psi for your terrain and riding style.

A good gauge really helps to define this as the ones connected to floor pumps are not all that exact.
2 months ago
Joe Pipes
It may be more difficult to choose my second bike than selecting my first bike. When starting out, you dont know the questions to ask. Once you get into it, er- addicted, you get kind of picky.

I am currently riding a Pedego City Commuter. 45v 15a battery the range is awesome. and comfort is sweet.

Here is my spec list, if anything jumps to your attention of a brand / model to look into. Let me know.
Front Suspension, If my pedego had front suspension forks, I prop would not change.
Pedal Assist, not throttle only / pedal mode
I prefer longer range over top speed. I can ride three four five hours and enjoy it. up to 50 miles +
relaxed / easy / upright position. I enjoy the cruising, not racing or in a hurry.
Rear fender rack, either standard or add on I like to pack a lot, too much
Front rack. Yes I told you I pack way too much s*it. But hey I am never hungry or thirsty.
digital display, battery life - miles - speed

If a particular model / brand comes to mind, please share.
JoeT, you asked and Pedego listened!

Based on your needs listed above, I highly recommend the Pedego Interceptor Platinum Edition:

1.) New front suspension feature added (RST Zeus).

2.) New and improved Panasonic 48V 15a battery for longer range over top speed. Pedego is transitioning from Samsung to Panasonic battery cells (Tesla electric vehicles use the top of the line Panasonic battery cells).

3.) New and improved swept back handle bars for a more relaxed / easy / upright position.

4.) The Pedego Interceptor Platinum Edition is hands-down the ultimate cruiser-style e-bike on the market today.

5.) Rear fender rack with optional clamp.

6.) Solid frame built pannier blockers. Instead of a front rack, I recommend a pannier for increased storage since you like to pack a lot. Or you could always add a basket to the front if you need more storage than a pannier can handle.

7.) Last but not least, priced at the low end of your 3-5k budget, listed for $3,795.



Steve Plattner
2 months ago
I agree tire inflation is important. I tend to pump mine up to 55 on the rear tire, 50 on the front. I weigh 205, so the bike and I with an extra battery are up in the 275-280 lb. range. Any thoughts on what a good lower psi figure would be that would provide a smoother ride but also minimize rolling resistance?
Joe Pipes
3 months ago

I'm not particularly in a hurry. I was thinking I may start touring in April, which gives me 5 months for planning. I haven't decided on pannier vs trailer yet. I don't intend to carry much with me.

My local ebike shop has Bulls, iZip, Pedego and EZ Motion bikes. Any feedback on the bikes from these manufacturers? I think I may be leaning toward the Bulls Lacuba; it is about $1000 over my planned budget though.
Wunderlust. Sounds like a fantastic journey / adventure. I am the very happy owner of a Pedigo
https://www.pedegoelectricbikes.com/shop/28-classic-city-commuter/ with the 48v 15a battery
and Love it. It has incredible comfort and very good range. On one trip in NW Arkansas I made it about 49 miles into a 53 mile trip with very hilly steep inclines. I weight about 210 and pack so much gear my buddies joke that it takes a village to ride with me. My only hesitation is that it does not have front suspension, I do miss that since I do take this bad boy off road. and yes the looks are part of the fun. Must be a sight to see pee wee herman bouncing along the trails. But hey. I enjoy it.
I have no info on any other bikes, but am currently looking for a second bike for me, and this one will be for sale very soon. almost free. LOL.
3 months ago
Plus the additional weight and wind resistance of the bodies (bike + rider position) ;-)

The only viable option is regenerative braking, pretty complex on a pedelec (1) since your engine is not located where you break most (ie. the front wheel) and (2) it'd need to trigger as soon as you stop pedaling, before you activate the mechanical brakes, very uncomfortable.

Tesla Motors does it on the Model S and X, it's super-efficient as a brake when you released the accelerator and many drivers use it 90% of the time by coasting, except emergency ofc; super rare to change brake pads on a Tesla as a result.
Energy wise though, it only regens 3-5% of the battery max on a full trip and that's world-class hardware/software electrical engineers who shared offices with world-class rocket scientists at SpaceX.
It slowly became a non-critical selling point (not even mentioned on the current prospectus) like the 7-seats configuration.

These folks would probably be better off with a standard frame mount and that second battery they paid for as a back-up on a rack if max range is the objective.
3 months ago
I ended with ST2 because of the range and overall better feelings.
ST1 range is simply too limiting.
I think you made the right choice, I started with the Limited Edition and loved it, but after doing a ton more research, including many posts on this Forum, I moved up to the ST-2. Somewhere on this Forum, I did a comparison feature by feature between the two. The easiest summary I think is that there is an elegant difference between the two models and the price difference clearly indicates that. My continued thinking is that it was worth it to go with the ST-2; best of luck with it...one note of caution, my daughter in Seattle has an e-bike and unfortunately dropped a front wheel between the trolly tracks downtown and took a pretty bad spill off of it. Apparently it was a freak accident caused by trying to be polite in heavy traffic...I'm thinking that the tires on the ST-2 are probably larger width-wise which could mitigate the problem if one were to run into it...
5 months ago
Hi LC1, some of the differences for 2017 are listed below:
  • Carbon fibre frame addition to the existing lineup
  • Hi spec model added - Carbon Wheelset & RS1 Front Fork
  • Lower spec models offered to expand the price range to offer lower cost models
  • Slight modification to the Bulls logo
  • Minor colour changes
The models I have arriving in October are all the last of the 2016 range.
In the E-Stream EVO Range for 2017, the 27.5 model is dropped from the range and due to popularity, the 27.5+ and 29" only are offered.

In summary, the 2016 models I have arriving are different in colour and Bulls logo only. The 27.5 will no longer be available (only 27.5+)

As far as support goes, your local bike shop will be able to handle any regular servicing issues regarding the actual bicycle componentry.
We are the Service Agents for Brosë in New Zealand and Australia will be able to assist you with any electronic issues.

I can organise shipping to anywhere in Australia on your behalf using my freight forwarder if you like.

Please feel free to contact me directly if you would like to know more.
5 months ago
Hello Dewey, I appreciate you taking the time to reply.. I have found your info very useful.. I have done some further investigation, and found that "the Alfine eight-speed IGH gear range is more than enough for regular town and country use. With a 20-tooth sprocket on hub, this approximately imitates the gears on a 12-38-tooth cassette". I have a 20 tooth rear sprocket so I will add a 42 tooth front chain ring and see how that goes.. I have the IGH Gear sensor but yet to install it.. Once i have tested this, I will then update the Controller PAS setting as you have done and see how this improves the overall output..

Thanks again for your assistance..
Robert Wetzel
1 year ago

Nice review as always - you guys at the other side of the big lake sure have not only the nicer landscapes, but also the nicer e-bike laws. All we get here is 250 Watts / 25 km/h or 500 Watts / 45 km/h but in the latter case you already need a driving license, a helmet, a license plate, are not allowed on bike paths and so on.....bummer.

Anyways, is there a chance you might make a more general video explaining the differences between the geared and gearless hub motors? What are the respective advantages, and so on....
Thanks for the good work anyways, keep it up!

Robert Wetzel
1 year ago

Wow, thanks for the quick and exhaustive answer! I can see how you are a very light person by most standards, and this affects engine performance of course. At 230 lbs, and another 70 lbs by the bike, I'd often wish for more than just 250 Watts.
Thank you also so much for the link, I'll read it right away. Your verdict about mid-drives is surprising, as most other reviews I came across laude the Yamaha over the Bosch as the former is supposed to be more powerful (70 Nm vs. 60 Nm, no idea how many lb ft that would be in your whacky system ;-)) as well as being quieter.
What positively surprised me about the Bosch was its endurance - we rented two mid-drive pedelecs in Switzerland and the battery lasted a little shy of 50 km with about 1500 meters height difference, and performed decently until the very end.
With my cheap system power will noticeably fall when passing about 70% battery.

1 year ago

+Robert Wetzel Yeah... I've heard about the restrictive laws in some parts of Europe. Fun fact, the 750 watt 20 mph law was passed under George W. Bush here in the US... it's like one of the only cool things he did while in office :P

Great question on the hub motors, I've created an article about it here: http://electricbikereview.com/guides/difference-between-ebike-motors/ with some great pictures and I'll probably do a video in the future. The short answer is that geared is lighter, peppier and usually more affordable but doesn't offer power regeneration and might not last as long (gears rubbing inside vs. just magnets). I'm an active type of rider and I don't weigh much so I usually choose geared. These days I've really developed a taste for mid-drive motors and you can get these awesome kits with shift sensing (to reduce wear and strain on your chain) from e-RAD which offer pedal assist and throttle actuation: http://electricbikereview.com/category/e-rad/ otherwise I really like Bosch (Impulse and Yamaha are pretty good as well but not as responsive and "quick" feeling in my opinion).

1 year ago

still the Sonders is more bike for the money. when will these kit manufacturers get with the program?

1 year ago

+DrZarkloff The Sondors has been a decent deal for people in the US who got them delivered. I still get emails from people in the UK and Australia that haven't received theres (in fact I heard most of Australia was refunded because of legal restrictions?) not everyone wants a fat bike frame so kits like this can be great, Electric Bike Outfitters sells several others for even less like the "EBO Commuter" that's rated at 350 watts just like the Sondors http://electricbikereview.com/electric-bike-outfitters/ebo-commuter-kit/

James Jacocks
1 year ago

Court, you have a strong international following-very good show! Yes, Denver is a great place to live (or ride bikes). I an looking for a front wheel kit for my beloved Fisher hybrid from the early nineties. It is a light bike with a bumper shock. Any ideas? Great vid, per usual!

Flo Mo
1 year ago

Your bike tests are cool. Now I feel like I'm in Denver/Colorado. :) It's great to ride with you on the test bikes. You make very good shots. Thanks for that. Greetings from Berlin.

1 year ago

Congratulations on video

1 year ago

+LUIZ FELIPE MENDONÇA RIBEIRO Thanks, doing my best, lots more to come ;)