Flash V1 Bike Review

Flash V1 Electric Bike Review
Flash V1 Bike
Flash V1 Shimano Tourney Tx Derailleur
Flash V1 Bike Shimano Mechanical Disc Brakes 180 Mm
Flash V1 Bike Ergonomic Grips Clean Handlebar Flat
Flash V1 Bike Mechanical Disc Brake Levers
Flash V1 Bike Integrated Headlight Tube
Flash V1 Ebike Headlight
Flash V1 Selle Royale Active Saddle
Flash V1 Bike Rear Disc Brake
Flash V1 Bike Shimano Tourney 12 34t Cassette Derailleur
Flash V1 Bike Tail Light
Flash V1 Integrated Lcd Control Center
Flash V1 Electric Bike Profile Left
Flash V1 Electric Bike Review
Flash V1 Bike
Flash V1 Shimano Tourney Tx Derailleur
Flash V1 Bike Shimano Mechanical Disc Brakes 180 Mm
Flash V1 Bike Ergonomic Grips Clean Handlebar Flat
Flash V1 Bike Mechanical Disc Brake Levers
Flash V1 Bike Integrated Headlight Tube
Flash V1 Ebike Headlight
Flash V1 Selle Royale Active Saddle
Flash V1 Bike Rear Disc Brake
Flash V1 Bike Shimano Tourney 12 34t Cassette Derailleur
Flash V1 Bike Tail Light
Flash V1 Integrated Lcd Control Center
Flash V1 Electric Bike Profile Left

Summary

  • A sleek, urban electric bike with motion-sensing alarm and tracking through the app, single-tube design is reinforced for strength, integrated lights and turn signals
  • The 500 watt planetary geared hub motor is zippy but light and compact, the bike only weighs ~45 lbs but the battery pack is not easily removable, quick release on front wheel
  • Responsive 12-magnet cadence sensor and twist throttle, maximum assisted speed of 28 mph for quick commutes and errands, basic 7-speed cassette, 180 mm mechanical disc brakes
  • The unique touch-screen display looks cool and cleans up the handlebar but requires more head movement to look down, button pads on left and right are intuitive, no bottle cage bosses, mid-frame kickstand can get in the way

Search EBR

Video Review

Trusted Advertisers

Introduction

Make:

Flash

Model:

V1 Bike

Price:

$1,999

Body Position:

Forward

Suggested Use:

Urban

Electric Bike Class:

Throttle on Demand (Class 2), Speed Pedalec (Class 3)
Learn more about Ebike classes

Warranty:

1 Year Comprehensive, 2 Year Components

Availability:

United States

Model Year:

20172018

Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

45.7 lbs (20.72 kg)

Frame Material:

6061 Aluminum Alloy

Frame Sizes:

21 in (53.34 cm)

Geometry Measurements:

21" Seat Tube Length, 23.5" Reach, 24” Stand Over Height, 25.75” Width, 71” Length

Frame Types:

Mid-Step

Frame Colors:

White, Silver, Charcoal

Frame Fork Details:

Rigid Aluminum Alloy, 100 mm Hub Spacing, 9mm Quick-Release Skewer

Frame Rear Details:

135 mm Hub Spacing, 11 mm Threaded Axle

Attachment Points:

Fender Bosses, Cafe Lock Bosses

Gearing Details:

7 Speed 1x7 Shimano Tourney Derailleur, Hyperglide HG 12-32T Cassette

Shifter Details:

Shimano SIS Index Thumb Shifter on Right

Cranks:

Sugino, Aluminum Alloy, 170 mm Length, 46T Chainring with Aluminum Alloy Chainring Guard, Square Tapered Bottom Bracket

Pedals:

VP 560 Plastic Platform with Raised Plastic Teeth

Headset:

Threadless Internal, 1-1/8" Straight

Stem:

Aluminum Alloy, 60 mm, 17° Rise, 31.8 mm Clamp Diameter

Handlebar:

Aluminum Alloy, Low-Rise, 655 mm Length

Brake Details:

Shimano Mechanical Disc with 180 mm Rotors, Four-Finger Levers with Motor Inhibitors

Grips:

Ergonomic Rubber, Locking, Black

Saddle:

Selle Royale, Active, Black

Seat Post:

Aluminum Alloy

Seat Post Length:

300 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

34.9 mm

Rims:

Aluminum Alloy, Double Wall, 36 Hole

Spokes:

Stainless Steel, 13 Gauge, Black with Nipples

Tire Brand:

Kenda Kranium, 26" x 2.1", (54-559)

Wheel Sizes:

26 in (66.04cm)

Tire Details:

40 to 65 PSI, 2.8 to 4.5 BAR

Tube Details:

Schrader Valve

Accessories:

Integrated LED Headlight, Integrated LED Taillight, Optional Custom Plastic Fenders ($59), Optional Custom Rear Beam Rack ($69), Optional Front Bar Mount Basket ($59), Optional Bar Mount Cup Holder ($18)

Other:

Non-Removable Integrated Downtube Battery Pack, 1.14 lb 2.0 Amp Sans Electronic Charger

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:

Bafang

Motor Type:

Rear-Mounted Geared Hub
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

500 watts

Battery Brand:

Panasonic

Battery Voltage:

36 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

11.6 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

417.6 wh

Battery Chemistry:

Lithium-ion

Charge Time:

5 hours

Estimated Min Range:

20 miles (32 km)

Estimated Max Range:

35 miles (56 km)

Display Type:

Flash Branded, Top Tube Integrated, Non-Removable, Greyscale Backlit LCD

Readouts:

Battery Level (7 Bar), Current Speed, Pedal Assist Level (0-4)

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pads: +, -, Left Turn Signal on Left Clicker, Lights, Horn and Right Turn Signal on Right Clicker, Bluetooth App

Drive Mode:

Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist, Twist Throttle (12 Magnet Cadence Sensor)

Top Speed:

28 mph (45 kph)

Trusted Advertisers



Written Review

The Flash V1, priced at $1,999, is the first offering from Flash Bike and comes with some pretty cool tech as well as a sleek, urban frame that is surprisingly sturdy despite it’s single-tube design. It feels like the V1 is a great choice for shorter rides in an urban environment, especially because of it’s integrated GPS tracking system that keeps an eye on the bike whenever it’s armed. The V1 has a 500-watt geared hub motor, a top pedal-assist speed of 28 mph and estimated max range of 50 miles. I personally like the look of the V1 – the front and rear frame-lights remind me of a Vanmoof and the control center on the down tube looks like something you’d see on a Stromer, which is cool since those rides can run $5k+. In fact, I think the biggest selling point of the V1 is the tech itself. The control center, which is located on the top portion of the down tube, displays current speed, battery level via a seven-bar battery indicator and pedal-assist level. There’s also an app that can be used to sync to the bike, which displays a few more bits of information like trip time and a tripometer. But more than that, the bike also has GPS and cellular, and when synced with the app can tell you exactly where the bike is at any given time and also alerts the owner if someone is tampering with or trying to steal the bike. When the V1 is armed (as opposed to “off”) the motion sensors and GPS are activated. If the bike is jostled, a mild alarm sounds, and if it’s jostled again or moved from it’s current location, the bike emits a much louder beeping noise and also alerts the owner via a push notification to their cell phone. Very cool. There is, however, a downside to this tech: it’s always drawing power from the battery. This means the battery is always being drained just a little bit, and after a week or so of not riding, the battery can lose as much as 50% of its charge. So if you go on vacation and come back, you may have to charge the V1 back up a bit before riding. It’s important to note the V1 will still lose charge over time even if it is left plugged in since the charger shuts off once the bike reaches 100% charge. In other words, it doesn’t trickle charge.

The V1 has some other really interesting tech that I haven’t seen on other electric bikes before. Most notably, it has integrated front and rear running lights, a powerful 450-lumen front headlight with three power modes, turn signals, an 85 decibel horn and even a brake light that activates whenever the brake levers are depressed. I love this feature as I feel it provides some serious layers of added safety. The running lights are on whenever the bike is on, but the main headlight can be toggled off to save battery. The main headlight is great as far as beam pattern goes – it has decent spill and throw – but because it’s integrated into the frame itself, it can’t be adjusted. I think this is fine as Flash did a good job of setting the beam angle, but for those that want to angle it up and down themselves to help with different types of terrain, that won’t be possible. The V1 also has motor inhibitors, which automatically cut power to the motor whenever the brakes are activated. This is a great feature to save unnecessary wear and tear on the motor and to keep you safe and in control. The brakes themselves are relatively powerful thanks to the 180 mm rotors, but the brake levers are a bit basic, requiring more hand strength and not being adjustable like hydraulic levers. It would be great if the V1 had hydraulic brakes, or at least the option to upgrade to them, but even with the mechanical brakes I believe the stopping power is more than ample, especially since the V1 only weighs 45.7 pounds. It’s always a challenge trying to balance expensive premium parts against a reasonable price point and I feel that Flash has done a great job here overall.

Technically, the V1 has a top speed of 28 mph with pedal assist, but with the 500-watt hub motor, I found it difficult to reach that speed, even on flat terrain. Granted, I weigh 200 pounds and was carrying about 30 pounds of camera gear with me. Lighter riders may be able reach the top speed more easily. Having a throttle on an electric bike is great, but a potential issue with that can be accidental activation when at a standstill. However, with the V1, the pedal-assist mode always starts at 0 whenever the bike is turned on. So neither the pedal assist nor the throttle will activate until the rider manually increases the pedal assist mode to a positive setting. Just another cool safety feature with the V1. I was worried that with a top speed of 28 mph and a single-tube frame I would get some serious frame flex, but I didn’t find that to be the case at all. I think this can be attributed to the three gussets on the frame that add to the overall rigidity and structural integrity. The 12-magnet cadence sensor on the V1 is quite sensitive and activates with even the slightest pedaling. The motor also shuts off relatively quickly once I stop pedaling or pulled the brakes. Pedaling from 0 to almost 28 is efficient and the seven gears were just enough to cover it, but the drivetrain is another area that has been specced down to save money. The derailleur is an entry-level Shimano Tourney and the shifter is a big thumb design that stays out of the way of your button pad and throttle but isn’t as quick or easy to reach. Note that because there are button pads on both the left and right side along with brake levers that have motor inhibitors and the shifter piece, the cockpit is a bit crowded… so this even though the display panel is way down on the top tube, at least that isn’t adding more clutter up top.

So what’s the overall paradigm or philosophy of use for the V1? I initially thought it would be a good commuter bike, but there are a few aspects of this bike that, after some consideration, make me think it would be better suited for shorter jaunts through the city. First and foremost, while the battery is technically removable, it’s not at all easy to do so. In order to take out the battery, the rear wheel must first be taken off, then the cap on the end of the frame must be removed and finally the battery itself – probably not something you’d want to do while standing at a bike rack outside your favorite coffee shop. Because the battery isn’t super easy to remove, it means that (generally speaking) the bike must be taken inside to charge. For some, this may not be an issue, but I suspect not every office space and coffee shop would allow a bike inside. So because of this one feature, I really think the V1 is better suited for shorter treks as opposed to commuting long distances. The V1 also lacks suspension, which can make longer rides a little uncomfortable, and while you can opt for fenders from Flash, they don’t come stock. And as I’m sure you know, no fenders can equate to wet and dirty pants. There doesn’t appear to be any fender bosses, although there are some threaded eyelets on the back of the frame that look like they can be used for a cafe lock (or maybe a rack if you really get creative, based on where they are positioned). Of course, one could always go for aftermarket fenders that attach to the seat post but those rarely look as good as factory fenders, and they can be difficult to keep straight. All this to say, while the V1 could certainly be used for commuting in certain circumstances, it probably would be better for shorter trips.

The V1 has some seriously cool tech that can usually only be found on much more expensive bikes like the Stromers, but with a price tag of $1,999, it makes sense that Flash would have to save money somewhere. And it looks like they did this by going with mechanical disc brakes as opposed to hydraulic, an entry-level Tourney derailleur, non-adjustable brake levers and plastic pedals. Sure, you can replace those pedals for $25 with some Wellgo alloy platforms off of Amazon (and I would totally do this as I have larger feet) but even still, I think the V1 is a good bike for the money – it looks great and rides just as well, it has some really cool safety features like the turn signals, brake lights, headlight, horn and GPS and cellular and even even has a throttle, something I always like to use to get going after lights and stop signs. Big thanks to Flash for partnering with me on this review and to Nick for heading all the way out to California to talk about the V1 with me.

Pros:

  • The V1 has an integrated control center in the down tube that displays current speed, battery level and pedal-assist level, and when paired with a smartphone via the Flash app, can notify the owner whenever the V1 is being tampered with as well as provide an exact location thanks to the integrated GPS and cellular (which is free!)
  • Integrated front and rear lights look clean and function well, with flashing running lights whenever the bike is on, three-mode front headlight, brake-activated back light and turn signals
  • Motor inhibitor automatically cuts power to the motor whenever the brakes are activated, preventing extra wear and tear on the motor itself by accidentally fighting against it while braking
  • The V1 offers both pedal-assist and throttle override, which means riders can pedal it like a traditional electric bike or just use the throttle if they want to treat it more like a scooter or moped (but the maximum speed of 28 mph is only achievable with the throttle)
  • Three gussets on the single-tube frame add tons of rigidity to prevent frame flex and speed wobble even when traveling at high rates of speed
  • large 180 mm mechanical disc brakes do a good job at providing ample stopping power, the cables can stretch and the brake levers require a bit more hand strength than hydraulic but they help to keep the cost down
  • The buttons on the left and right side of the handlebars make it easy to switch pedal-assist modes as well as toggle the front headlight on and off and use the horn
  • Smaller 26-inch tires add to the overall compact look and feel to the V1 and contribute to low standover height, which is great for people like me with shorter inseams
  • Price tag of $1,999 isn’t bad considering the tech that comes with the V1, there’s only one frame size but you do get three color choices

Cons:

  • The integrated control center, while nice, is on the down tube, which can make actually viewing it while riding difficult and even dangerous, you have to really tilt your head down to see it and that obstructs the view in front of you
  • The battery isn’t easy to remove, limiting options for charging on the go, for those that want to treat this like a commuter bike they may find it difficult to bring the entire bike indoors to find an outlet… but it least it’s relatively lightweight at ~45 lbs whereas most competing products are 50+ lbs
  • It looks like the fork and rear portions of the bike have bosses for adding fenders or racks, but the pattern was unique so I’m not sure all aftermarket parts will work (the rear bosses were on top of the seat stays vs. the sides)
  • The front headlamp provides ample illumination for riding at night, but because it’s integrated into the frame itself, the beam angle can’t be adjusted up or down
  • While the gussets do stiffen up the bike and reduce frame flex, riders that weigh more than 200 pounds may experience some frame flex, this is just a side-effect of not having a more traditional triangle-frame bike that is renown for it’s structural integrity and rigidity
  • The GPS and cellular are awesome features, but they are constantly draining the battery and after a week or so of not riding the battery can lose as much as 50% of its charge, this can’t be avoided unless the bike is periodically unplugged and plugged back in to trickle charge it
  • The kick stand is located in the middle of the frame and interferes with the pedals when deployed, this can make pulling the bike backwards – like when it’s tightly stored in a garage – difficult
  • No suspension makes for a stiff ride and after long distances it can become uncomfortable, especially when riding at higher speeds! Consider swapping the stock post with a suspension seat post for more comfort (the ergonomic grips and saddle are nice)

Resources:

Trusted Advertisers

Dani
5 days ago

Hi Court, We have been building a kind of similar site to EBR for a few years now (I’m from Israel by the way). I got to know EBR lately and I’ve been reading and admiring your work, it all looks awesome and super professional. We are an internet marketing company with special love to all electric Bicycles and scooters. I also know Yoni and Shimy, The Magnum Bikes guys (we have built their site and made SEO marketing to it) and all other Israeli bikes and scooter people. I would like to first connect you to some customers going in to US business, how would be the best way to do that and do you have a pricing table for your site’s ad options? And also ask you to have a look at our site and share your thoughts of it here, and here is a video example. I’m so happy to contact you :)

Reply
Court Rye
5 days ago

Hi Dani! Nice to meet you, thanks for reaching out and great job on your website! I cannot read it or understand the language spoken in the videos but I can tell you’ve done a great job, very similar with weighing the scooter and showing the different parts. Yes, I’d love to remain in touch and possibly review the different products coming from your customers who are going into the USA. You can reach me directly using the contact page on EBR here.

Reply
Mike
4 days ago

Not picking on the Flash here, but there are just too many brands out there now, that are not paying attention to what ebike customers want, feel they NEED, and why they choose ebikes vs alternate moods of transport or physical recreation. The Flash’s fatal flaws are going to be: 1) no easy removal of battery, and 2) no throttle.

Anyone (at least in the midwest, and likely many other geographies for other reasons Im about to cite) is going to want an EASILY removable battery, for when the bike is not in use during winter months, AND many will want that for being able to carry a spare battery to gain distance or range for a trip on the ebike. The draining by the added features of GPS and motion detection, makes the need even greater. The benefit of those two, aren’t likely to off-set the downside of non-easy removal.

Most ebike riders also want a throttle here in the US. There are many uses for it, that include even safety reasons or purposes, such as (one example) in situations as being stopped on a hill, and wanting the quick ‘boost.’ This applies both to regular people, and ones who just aren’t up to physical fitness that they used to be, and want to get back biking again. (hence the purpose of ebikes for many in the first place). Just pedal assist doesn’t cut it for many buyers.

So what is happening here, is a dilution of the market for all ebike OEM entrants (i.e. meaning that each OEM doesn’t get enough volume to become sustainable, thus not helping the market to grow or buyers becoming disenchanted with their products and not advocating them enough to others), and fatal flaws taking an e-bike’s ranking from what could be a ‘9’ or ’10’ rating, on a scale of ‘1 to 10’, down to a 4 or 5. If the market has more than 50 brands out of 100 with these sorts of fatal flaws, it really slows the adoption of the ebikes into mainstream. It maybe hasn’t for Europe, but the market drivers for buying here in the US, are far different than there, with European people NEEDING/wanting them for transportation, and REALLY wanting them, as cars simply aren’t as viable there as they are here, and gas prices are 4 to 5 times what ours are here.

Its as if OEMs selling into the US keep hoping they can ‘shove’ these mid drives (which usually have no throttles) or throttle-less ebikes down the throats of the US consumers, and expect sales to really grow. I think they are over-estimating the fickle and highly particular US consumer. Its too bad, because a lot of these 100 or so brands could be much more than just ‘me-too’ offerings with some cool features, if they didn’t have the one or two fatal flaws.

Reply
Court Rye
4 days ago

Thanks for sharing your opinions and insights here Mike, I agree that there are some glaring opportunities for improvement, important features like off-bike charging and the draw of GPS etc. on this bike. Some of the brands are really starting to refine their offering and lower the price point, which is helping to drive adoption, reliability and the overall reputation. I’m excited to now see Bosch powered ebikes in the $2.5k range and many hub motor options (with throttle) in the $1.5k like Juiced Bikes, Rad Power Bikes, Populo, and E-Glide. Magnum is doing a great job in between the lowest price and higher price point while still making their bikes available through shops vs. online direct.

Reply

Post a Comment

Your email address will not be published.

Roland Leisenring
3 hours ago

Any reviews on The Electric Shopping Cruiser ($2,500)

Ken M
6 hours ago

I am researching the heck out of a bike I can use as an overland trail bike. We have a Winnebago Revel on the way and need to match it up with a bike that can get us around some cool trails.

I've noticed some bikes have the option of a 350 w Mid Drive and a 500 w Hub Drive. Can someone help me compare these? I know there are some positives and negatives to both.....

BTW - such a great forum ! This site rules!
I wanted to add some very relevant information that no one seems to ever mention when comparing mid-drives and hub motors.

Mid-drive do tend to be excellent climbing systems because they benefit from the drive ratio of the front to rear sprockets at slow speeds where the torque of the motor can actually be increased to the rear wheel. The problem is that at high speeds that advantage becomes a disadvantage. If you say running at 20mph on a 44T front and 11T rear sprocket only 1/4th the axle torque of the mid-drive is delivered to the rear wheel because of the 4 to 1 reduction to achieve the speed at a reasonable cadence. In my opinion this is the equivalent of inefficiency - decreases the drive system efficiency because an 80nM mid drive will only provide 20nM of torque to the rear axle at that speed.

Hub drives (at least the gear-less more simply ones) do run at lower RPMs which is a less efficient dymanic state for a brushless motor but the torque is delivered directly to the rear axle. So if you are riding at 20mph, a rear hub motor only needs to be providing 20nM to equal the "effective" power of the mid-drive at this speed. The higher the speed the more efficient a rear hub motor becomes so I would venture to say that if you spend a significant % of your riding time over speeds of say 15mph a hub drive may be more efficient and provide more power to the rear wheel.

I would venture to say this is why some of the premium speed pedelecs still utilize hub drive motors.

If you think you will spend the bulk of your riding time below say 15mph and on trails, no doubt get a mid-drive but if you want a fast urbam mobility bike I would give hub drives serious consideration.

I have both a mid drive Haibike and a rear hub Polaris and the Polaris has better fast performance and the Haibike with the Yamaha mid-drive is awesome up to about 15mph. I think the Bosch mid-drives with the smaller front chain ring that spins at 2.5X cadence do provide better high speed assist than the Yamaha but at the cost of some low speed torque to the rear wheel.

trebor
7 hours ago

I just did two range tests.... I sent battery power levels to the cadence channel, so I could see the graph in Garmin Connect. Love this feature. Also love how the bike comes with free power meter! Wow. I can see how many watts I averaged and how many calories I burned.

I am 145 lbs. 2017 Turbo Levo Comp. I think that means 460 wh battery. 10 psi front, 12 rear. Trails with 377 feet elevation gain over 9.5 miles. 50% power. 3.6 firmware. Race accel. 35F temp.
Worked out to 21.1 miles max range.

At 20% power and 745 foot elevation in 12 miles, and accel on normal, worked out to 40.4 mile range.

My impression of 20% power is that it is almost like riding a normal MTB except significant help on hills. I could imagine riding as low as 15% power. I also rode at 0% power for 1.5 miles, and it felt like riding a fat bike - which is to say, I don't understand having range anxiety on this bike. If you do run out of power, it just becomes a not unreasonable bike. Motor has no drag.

Johnny
8 hours ago

@Dewey: Again thanks for the info, I didn't know that Giant customized their motors. Again when I was looking into the specifications I did not see much information about the motor. It seems Explore uses a version that is speed limited to 20, yet I see 28 mph version of the same "sport " model.

I'm a huge Haibike fan, I own two 2016 bikes. A Full Seven XDURO S RX mtb, and a Trekking XDURO S RX. Both are speed versions, 28mph, both are Bosch. You get a little noise from the Bosch mid drive (as compared to the Brose for example), but it's so smooth in handling power and torque. Personally, I feel the Bosch is worth every penny. If you ride many hills, you'll appreciate the 28mph bikes. When riding a 20mph bike, you go over that coming down the grade. But when you get to that 20mph setting as you level out, you can feel it hunt between assist and no assist. With the 28mph, you just don't hit that annoyance. Right now is the perfect time to buy a Haibike. I bought one in November 2016 and the other in March 2017. Both highly discounted from MSRP.

Thanks for the response, so you advise going for a 2017 x duro instead of an sduro ? I realize that for some models they did not state the maxspeed but should I assume that it is 28mph if the system is 350w Bosch CX ?
I think at some place that Bosch system will not accept other battery packs (and I see that Bosch insanely overprices their packs ) is it still the case?

I should find a shop and test these models.

JRA
8 hours ago

Because I use a front hub motor and no PAS the drivetrain is not affected by the motor output and imitates my analog pedaling input which works best for my needs. However after a couple of thousand miles on this bike my main complaint was that the shifting was not very precise. The way I ride I like to pedal as much as possible on top of the motor so I shift gears to achieve the cadence and in put ratio that best suits my wanted level of activity and speed over ground at any given time.

Not as much of a problem in the front as I use a Schlumpf 2 spd bb drive which has 1:1 - 2.5:1 ratios and shifts easily with the click of a button using your heel. The problem was the rear 10 spd system which was Shimano Acera, not exactly the best quality components for sure. But what I really felt was the biggest problem was the cable drag that was allowing for hung shifting. I replaced the cable, lubed the cable, put on new housing and it would work for a few rides okish and then go back to its stubborn ways.

So in order to bypass the cable and housing I decided to look in to the Shimano Di2 Alfine 11 spd. IGH. If you look in to Di2 there are lots of different part numbers associated with it and it all has to work together and is not always clear what goes with what. After I got done choking on the price and complexity of ordering this system I tracked down the parts for the most part at cost, which was still substantial.

Although I have the knowledge of how to lace wheels and do most of my own wrenching I enlisted a local bike mechanic for this project because of his knowledge of Di2 and had him build the wheel and tape it. Also he did the system install which was not all that involved with the right parts but he knew the tricks associated with it and there are tricks. A general check up of all systems took place and a good cleaning which won't last long. At the same time I took the opportunity to swap in knobbier tires, 40c WTB Resolutes, for the snotty PNW season upon us and the IGH fits in to that as well as it will be less maintenance than before, in theory anyway.

My initial trial run was very positive as I found the bike to pedal with no undue mechanical resistance without assist which is important to me. When I hit the magic button and ran it through the gears I knew that it was a good thing to do because shifting was precise and the range seemed to be sufficient with a little lower on the low end and as high as I need on the upper. There is a little readout that tells me what gear its in and the shift "buttons" in the right lever are easy to get at and take only a light touch to activate. They are pretty close together and it is going to take a few rides to get a feel for the best way to get the right one but it shouldn't be too hard.

1/1
Dewey
8 hours ago

do you think Giant is better? is there any way to reprogram to achieve 25mph ?

A comparable Haibike is the Sduro Cross 4.0 which uses the Yamaha PW motor with 3 sensors vs 4 on the Giant Explore’s Yamaha SyncDrive motor and Giant use custom software presumably to incorporate the 4th sensor. The criticism I have read online about the Yamaha-PW is the motor delivers less pedal assist after 80rpm and stops supporting at 100rpm cadence so that won’t affect you too much if you like to pedal around 80rpm. The new Yamaha PW-X and Giant version of the motor called the SyncDrive Pro support up to 120rpm cadence and are available on more expensive Haibike and Giant speed pedelec models. Giant have more brand presence in local bike shops if local warranty support is what you’re thinking about. A summary of controller over-rides is at https://www.ebiketuning.com/comparison/yamaha-tuning.html but you will void your warranty and they don’t ship to the US, personally I don’t see the point, you will probably break something so if you want to go faster just buy a speed pedelec.

BikeMike045
9 hours ago

Thanks, a couple bike shop/motorcycle buddies also suggested I try higher PSI. After riding a bit more, I can say acceleration and power go beyond any expectation I had. I will continue to baby this but it seems be durable and an incredible machine.

rich c
11 hours ago

I'm a huge Haibike fan, I own two 2016 bikes. A Full Seven XDURO S RX mtb, and a Trekking XDURO S RX. Both are speed versions, 28mph, both are Bosch. You get a little noise from the Bosch mid drive (as compared to the Brose for example), but it's so smooth in handling power and torque. Personally, I feel the Bosch is worth every penny. If you ride many hills, you'll appreciate the 28mph bikes. When riding a 20mph bike, you go over that coming down the grade. But when you get to that 20mph setting as you level out, you can feel it hunt between assist and no assist. With the 28mph, you just don't hit that annoyance. Right now is the perfect time to buy a Haibike. I bought one in November 2016 and the other in March 2017. Both highly discounted from MSRP.

whamp
11 hours ago

Can you under inflate a fat tire? I've heard of people using less than 5 psi in sand. I also question if you can misalign the handlebars. Technically, you can have them at any angle and still ride straight down the road. If the bike is actually pulling to one side, make sure the fork is not bent, make sure the axle is bottomed in the fork slots, and if it has disc brakes, make sure it's not set too tightly.

Sure you can run them at low psi but try running at 5 psi on concrete and tell me that they don't pull against you while turning. Pump them up more and I'd say there's a 95% chance his pulling sensation will go away.

Also if the handlebars aren't aligned with the steering stem when you turn them and have weight on the bars you'll feel a pulling sensation when leaned over. He wasn't asking about riding straight down the road he was asking about turning and the fact the tire feels like it's gripping the road. Anyway I doubt it's the alignment though because it's fairly obvious when they are out of alignment.

rich c
12 hours ago

Assuming you have the handlebars properly aligned it sounds like your tires are under inflated. What psi do you have (cold) ?
Can you under inflate a fat tire? I've heard of people using less than 5 psi in sand. I also question if you can misalign the handlebars. Technically, you can have them at any angle and still ride straight down the road. If the bike is actually pulling to one side, make sure the fork is not bent, make sure the axle is bottomed in the fork slots, and if it has disc brakes, make sure it's not set too tightly.

whamp
12 hours ago

It is normal for fat tire bikes to have a bit of pull while steering? My tires are inflated relatively full (psi gauge on my pump is not great) as I will be riding streets mostly. It seems like the tire gripping the road and causes the handlebar to pull slightly, even with a very subtle lean/steering. Perhaps this is also due to the power.
I feel silly to admit I've only ridden fat tire bike once before, but sans motor.

Assuming you have the handlebars properly aligned it sounds like your tires are under inflated. What psi do you have (cold) ?

BikeMike045
14 hours ago

It is normal for fat tire bikes to have a bit of pull while steering? My tires are inflated relatively full (psi gauge on my pump is not great) as I will be riding streets mostly. It seems like the tire gripping the road and causes the handlebar to pull slightly, even with a very subtle lean/steering. Perhaps this is also due to the power.
I feel silly to admit I've only ridden fat tire bike once before, but sans motor.

JRA
16 hours ago

Perhaps finding a couple of tray type holders adapted to your basket rack would work and save you a few bucks while you are out looking for bucks.

Some ideas here:

http://www.thefatbikehub.com/blog/reviews/hauling-fat-bikes-buying-guide-fat-bike-vehicle-racks/

rich c
16 hours ago

I agree that it certainly is possible. There was a story of a guy with a Sondors Fat 8.6 Ah getting the marketed 50 mile range on a stock battery, not exceeding 10mph and coasting as much as possible. But why? You're riding a heavier bike, with more expense and battery charging everyday. Seems like a solution looking for a problem. It may get the rider excited, but I would suggest it will get them frustrated and wonder why they just invested that money to ride like they already were. Except for those few miles they can get boosted up a hill.

JRA
17 hours ago

"I do know that I want to keep getting my exercise (so I don't want a throttle, I want some pedal assist at times to increase my range and provide convenience) and I also want to be able to completely disable it and still ride the bike without getting resistance from the motor. "

This statement comes up often as the perception that a throttle precludes human pedal input seems to be the party line. While yes it is possible that someone could just throttle around and not pedal, in practice that is way less efficient than PAS and whoever decides to do it that way is missing out on the actual benefits of being on a bicycle rather than a scooter given the same system Watts of power they won't be going any faster and a whole lot less distance.

But if you do want to pedal for exercise having a throttle is just another way to communicate with the motor in regards to your assist needs and if used properly as efficient as any PAS. Especially if you have a cruise control function that is programmable to varying watt outputs and the proper range of gearing in your drive train. Personally I like to keep my desired pedal input/cadence apart from the motor as it feels more natural to me and I have better control over that with a throttle.

All e systems will have at least a minimal amount of resistance when not activated, if not in the motor itself, then in the added weight to the bike. There is a reason lightweight pedal bikes are desirable and the trick is to have an e system that is capable of overcoming the extra lbs. and enough more to make it worth having aboard.

feifonwong
17 hours ago

I bought this... car interior LED light kit. I power it with a little usb phone battery charger thingy.

here is a pic of my bike with those lights and here. I was thinking about the money lights but I don't like the look of the extra wires and one more thing to charge. I am going to upgrade next season to a tire that has reflective sidewalls.... that plus what I have going on.... i feel like if people don't see me at night they are blind.

;)

Andy

Those are actually a better option! Do they project the to red lines on the road like that? This will be perfect for the busy street I have to ride down. The city closed the bridge that connects to Old Sacramento from the river, so I'll be a sitting duck by either riding on the actual freeway or taking the street form the trail.

harryS
18 hours ago

25 miles on a 5AH is possible, if you ride at normal bike speeds in pedal assist, with a smaller motor. I've tested a number of small batteries of 4-5 AH or less, and averaged numbers around .2 mile per mile. ( 5mile/AH). Maybe that's not ebiking as many would know it. It works for me. Being a retired electronics nerd, I like to look at these things.

If I bomb around on my 750W fatbike at 20-22 mph, I really use the AH. Burned almost 2AH and only went 2.5 miles.

As for the pack, I would expect they did the R&D on the contacts. Maybe the contacts in the battery box float on the handlebar receptacle.

elliot friedman
18 hours ago

Afternoon people,

Before you decide to purchase your next bike on line. Make sure that the warranty is still applicable. I just read that some companies do not warrant their bikes if they were purchased via mail order.

Check, it could be important.
elliot f.

Kemper
18 hours ago

Yes, I have had a chance to fully inspect the bike as has another mechanic at another shop. While neither of us could find the "smoking gun", I did find several issues. First was the loose headset, which was properly adjusted perhaps 4 months prior. Second was badly worn suspension bushings on the lower end of the tubes that slide inside the lower section of the fork. Third was a loose hinge, which was also properly adjusted 4 months ago, and finally a slightly loose steering tube height adjuster. The clamp was tight but there was still some wiggle at the handlebars because the fit between the two tubes that slide together isn't perfect and allows for play. While I can only speculate based on my years of experience in the bike world and having degree in mechanical engineering, I would simply say that this was a bit of a fluke but the poor quality of the parts involved combined to create sympathetic vibrations that became unmanageable. Creating the exact same situation in the lab would be nearly impossible. I won't ever sell one of these bikes, nor will I ever service one in the future. Buyer beware...

Huh, well as @Gogogordy mentioned, I hope there are some photos. If it were me I'd send a report to Evelo. Not being well versed in bike components I'm not sure exactly what the "suspension bushings on the lower end of the tubes that slide inside the lower section of the fork" are (or look like)... trying to see something like that similar on mine. Thanks!

hurricane56
18 hours ago

I think the DIY option is viable if you have experience working with RC kit. You might need to pick up some bike specific tools to help with the installation process. When talking to a friend that has two DIY bikes, there's always a time allocated to tinkering and upgrading. With the big box brands, you can always upgrade the standard bike components, but you'll probably spend more time riding.

How far do you plan to commute?

hurricane56
19 hours ago

I've been running a Thule T2 Pro XT for the last year and it's worked well. I usually only need to transport one bike, but it's rated capacity is 120lbs total. Are you bikes 60lbs with the battery?

Mark Allen
19 hours ago

hey guys,
I'm looking for a hitch mount bike rack that will carry my two fat tire electric bikes 60 lbs each. I use my bike s for hunting only and was hoping to avoid a super expensive rack because of the type of abuse it will endure. I considered a motorcycle rack and strapping the bikes down or a modification to my hitch basket rack that would hold the bikes upright.

Any suggestions on what to look for is appreciated, the more I've researched the more confused I am

Thanks

Andy_in_CA
19 hours ago

I bought this... car interior LED light kit. I power it with a little usb phone battery charger thingy.

here is a pic of my bike with those lights and here. I was thinking about the money lights but I don't like the look of the extra wires and one more thing to charge. I am going to upgrade next season to a tire that has reflective sidewalls.... that plus what I have going on.... i feel like if people don't see me at night they are blind.

;)

Andy

FreedomBikes
19 hours ago

Yes, I have had a chance to fully inspect the bike as has another mechanic at another shop. While neither of us could find the "smoking gun", I did find several issues. First was the loose headset, which was properly adjusted perhaps 4 months prior. Second was badly worn suspension bushings on the lower end of the tubes that slide inside the lower section of the fork. Third was a loose hinge, which was also properly adjusted 4 months ago, and finally a slightly loose steering tube height adjuster. The clamp was tight but there was still some wiggle at the handlebars because the fit between the two tubes that slide together isn't perfect and allows for play. While I can only speculate based on my years of experience in the bike world and having degree in mechanical engineering, I would simply say that this was a bit of a fluke but the poor quality of the parts involved combined to create sympathetic vibrations that became unmanageable. Creating the exact same situation in the lab would be nearly impossible. I won't ever sell one of these bikes, nor will I ever service one in the future. Buyer beware...

NFmangatoo
3 days ago

This bike has descent features and functions, it is very stylish. Nice review.

b b
4 days ago

Where can I get a new battery?

Jessa Phillips
5 days ago

that right handlebar is way too busy... most of those buttons should be on the left side so you can use your right hand to focus on running the throttle.

bparkinson1234
6 days ago

What happened to court?

ForbinColossus
6 days ago

On second look at this vid, it's interesting how those simple headlight/taillight extensions really make the cool look. Without that tubular can-light design note, it would appear as an average low end ebike. There should be some name for that design - it's a top tube overhang

b b
7 days ago

So no charging port?

Jay Gurung
7 days ago

Another good review Brent.

Bob A
7 days ago

Hello Court-Missed ya! Nice bike, but the non-removable battery is a deal killer. I would have liked to see if the bike can reach the 28 mph mark without too much effort or otherwise. Some ebikes have a 250 or 500 watt motor, but seem to cutout to 50% power at certain speeds. I do like the design and features in bike color white for my preference. Easier to be seen in traffic.

Steven Schwartzstein
6 days ago

I was thinking the same thing. If you've got a 28 MPH speed pedelec, show it going 28 MPH.

b b
7 days ago

Bob A the battery is removable!?

3dkiller
7 days ago

weird design, dont like the front and back light.. looks like a freaking penis sticking out, and no front suspension !, no mudguards

Brandon Yu
7 days ago

Yeah, everything about the bike looks good except those light extensions, if they were just a bit shorter :)

W M
1 week ago

Bike from $2K contains chipper Chinese materials… serious?! :))

Theo Wink
1 week ago

mixmatch van moof \stromer for a affordable price
for the heavy gps batterydrain use a activated motion sensor or/on demand

Andrew Hunter
1 week ago

I like the look of this one and it's at a reasonable price what's not to like.

Mr Jhonny
1 week ago

20th like!!

Mr Jhonny
1 week ago

ahahhaha!!

ElectricBikeReview.com
1 week ago

Not bad... not great, but not bad :P

Ian Mangham
1 week ago

Turn signals and break lights are good,but that's all I really like with this one.Great review though

Ian Mangham
1 week ago

ElectricBikeReview.com Yeah man, I can tell he love's his ebikes, I'd imagine if I owned one of these I'd soon think it was the greatest machine I've ever had lolz, those break light's are just awesome

ElectricBikeReview.com
1 week ago

Thanks for the feedback, Brent is making progress and I thought he called out some really insightful design points and I enjoyed the control system overview, the Flash V1 has some unique features for sure

Scott Musgrove
1 week ago

You guys always do great reviews (I've watched a million of them). I just got a Flash bike today and spent much of the morning riding it. It’s my first eBike and I love it! I’ve been a road cyclist my whole life and raced for the last 15 years or so. As a result I was a little skeptical about eBikes at first (I know a lot of roadies are). But when I test rode one of these, I was sold. I don’t think of it as a replacement for my normal road riding/training, but more as a car replacement/supplement. The plan is to use this bike for trips I might normally take in the car — anything from a couple of miles to 20-30 miles. I know I could take many of those trips on a normal bike, but the truth is I don’t. For me, cycling as always been more about racing/training/exercise — I just don’t really run errands/commute on a bike. But that’s changing now. The combo of power, range, safety features (running lights, horn, etc) and security (alarm and GPS locating) makes it, for me, a great bike for the money. Also, having grown up riding motorcycles, the throttle is pretty fun.

ElectricBikeReview.com
1 week ago

Nice, I hope it works great for you Scott, feel free to post updates as you get to know and use the bike more. I agree that the higher speed, gps, and some of the lights and safety features make this one special :)

ForbinColossus
1 week ago

Nice review job there. You are right about the van moof look. Imagine a top tube running from headlight through to tailight. But it's got a good look - am thinking of a folding Montague Paratrooper frame... The no battery slide out kills it for me. No sale. I hope they succeed and cause other ebike companies to add GPS. Bike thieves suck!

ElectricBikeReview.com
1 week ago

Yeah, the motion-sensing alarm and GPS are unique and potentially very useful. I like the look of this one more than Vanmoof because it looks more approachable and comfortable. I like the smaller wheels with larger tires :)

Jeremy B
1 week ago

For two grand I know someone in the hood that would piggyback you everywhere you need to go

Ian Mangham
1 week ago

Jeremy B 😄

Joey Love
1 week ago

Glad to see this review I thought something happened to Court.

Joey Love
1 week ago

ElectricBikeReview.com Excellent! I was concerned. Thanks for putting me at ease.

ElectricBikeReview.com
1 week ago

I'm still here, just traveling this week and Brent has a few more reviews in the works. I'll be posting regularly very soon ;)

DiGiTaLGrAvEDiGGA
1 week ago

Stromer should take notes!!! ROFL!!!

WellOiledMachine
4 days ago

Yea they should totally downgrade to cadence sensor and remove the connectivity features on their bikes, cause that’s what makes a premium product 😂

Kay Yamamoto
7 days ago

The bike and app look very similar to a Stromer.

Brandon Yu
7 days ago

competition is good :)

ElectricBikeReview.com
1 week ago

Lots of bang for your buck with this model

xiflashhy Jr
1 week ago

Second boy

ElectricBikeReview.com
1 week ago

So close... like one minute off :P