IZIP E3 Peak Review

2016 Izip E3 Peak Electric Bike Review
2016 Izip E3 Peak
2016 Izip E3 Peak 72 Nm Output Mid Drive Motor
2016 Izip E3 Peak 48 Volt Battery Pack Removable
2016 Izip E3 Peak Tranzx Lcd Display Panel
2016 Izip E3 Peak Currie Electro Drive Button Pad
2016 Izip E3 Peak 180 Mm Disc Brake Rotors
2016 Izip E3 Peak 10 Speed Shimano Deore Xt
2016 Izip E3 Peak Suntour Raidon Xc Lo Air Suspension 100 Mm Travel
2016 Izip E3 Peak 2 Amp Battery Charger
2016 Izip E3 Peak Electric Bike Review
2016 Izip E3 Peak
2016 Izip E3 Peak 72 Nm Output Mid Drive Motor
2016 Izip E3 Peak 48 Volt Battery Pack Removable
2016 Izip E3 Peak Tranzx Lcd Display Panel
2016 Izip E3 Peak Currie Electro Drive Button Pad
2016 Izip E3 Peak 180 Mm Disc Brake Rotors
2016 Izip E3 Peak 10 Speed Shimano Deore Xt
2016 Izip E3 Peak Suntour Raidon Xc Lo Air Suspension 100 Mm Travel
2016 Izip E3 Peak 2 Amp Battery Charger

Summary

  • A 650B hardtail trail or mountain ebike with a powerful 73 Nm mid-drive motor, it's one of the quieter motors but less responsive (mostly cadence sensing) and no shift sensing
  • Nice 180 mm hydraulic disc brakes, quick release for both wheels and a 15 mm front and 12 mm rear axle for improved stiffness, 100 mm air fork with rebound and lockout
  • Could make an excellent weekend warrior bike where you ride it on pavement to work during the week then go off-road for fun occasionally because it has bosses for a rear rack and fenders
  • Class 1 limited top speed of 20 mph and no throttle (the most widely accepted class for trail riding), optional boost button to add 20 mph button throttle mode

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Video Review

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Introduction

Make:

IZIP

Model:

E3 Peak

Price:

$2,799

Body Position:

Forward

Suggested Use:

Urban, Trail, Mountain

Electric Bike Class:

Pedal Assist (Class 1), Throttle on Demand (Class 2)
Learn more about Ebike classes

Warranty:

2 Year Comprehensive, Lifetime Frame

Availability:

United States

Model Year:

2016

Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

49 lbs (22.22 kg)

Battery Weight:

6.1 lbs (2.76 kg)

Motor Weight:

9.5 lbs (4.3 kg)

Frame Material:

6061 Aluminum Alloy

Frame Sizes:

17 in (43.18 cm)19 in (48.26 cm)

Geometry Measurements:

32" Stand Over Height and 74" Length on the Large 19" Frame

Frame Types:

High-Step

Frame Colors:

Gloss Black with Blue and White Accents

Frame Fork Details:

SR Suntour Raidon-XC-LO-R Suspension with 100 mm Travel, Rebound Adjust and Lockout, 15 mm Thru-Axle with Quick Release

Frame Rear Details:

Alloy 142 / 12 mm with Quick Release

Attachment Points:

Rear Rack Bosses, Fender Bosses

Gearing Details:

10 Speed 1x10 Shimano Deore XT, 11-32T

Shifter Details:

Shimano Deore XT Triggers on Right

Cranks:

Lasco EB05, Alloy Guide, 42T

Pedals:

Wellgo Aluminum Alloy Platform, Black

Headset:

Tapered Head Tube, VP Semi-Integrated Ahead

Stem:

Tranz-X 3D forged Alloy 31.8 mm Diameter

Handlebar:

Tranz-X DB Alloy 31.8 mm Diameter, 700 mm x 30 mm, Low Rise

Brake Details:

Shimano M396 Hydraulic Disc with 180 mm Rotors

Grips:

Velo Flat Rubber, Locking

Saddle:

Velo Racing

Seat Post:

Tranz-X Alloy with Quick Release Collar

Seat Post Length:

320 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

31.6 mm

Rims:

Alex Volar 2.3 Doublewall, Aluminum Alloy, Tubless Ready, Brass Nipples

Spokes:

Stainless Steel 13 Gauge, Black

Tire Brand:

Kenda Kapture K1148 Dual-Use, 27.5" x 1.95"

Wheel Sizes:

27.5 in (69.85cm)

Tire Details:

30 TPI, 30 to 80 PSI

Tube Details:

Presta Valve

Accessories:

Aluminum Alloy Chain Guide

Other:

Locking Removable Battery Pack, 2 Amp 1.8 Pound Charger

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:

Currie Electro-Drive® (TranzX), Model M07

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Geared Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

350 watts

Motor Peak Output:

400 watts

Motor Torque:

73 Newton meters

Battery Brand:

Samsung or LG

Battery Voltage:

48 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

8.7 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

417.6 wh

Battery Chemistry:

Lithium-ion

Charge Time:

5 hours

Estimated Min Range:

15 miles (24 km)

Estimated Max Range:

35 miles (56 km)

Display Type:

Fixed Monochrome Backlit LCD with Adjustable Angle

Readouts:

Speed, Odometer, Battery Capacity (5 Bars), Assist Level (0-4), Range Estimation

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pad on Left

Drive Mode:

Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist (Optional Button Throttle)

Top Speed:

20 mph (32 kph)

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Written Review

The 2016 IZIP E3 Peak is one of the most powerful mid-drive electric bikes I’ve tested for trail and mountain style riding. The M07 motor by TranzX delivers 73 Newton meters of torque and is surprisingly quiet. With a 27.5″ wheelset the bike feels nimble but also stable and comfortable going over bumps. The air suspension fork is light weight and offers both rebound adjustment and lockout, the latter of which is great for riding efficiently on paved surfaces. This e-bike would work well as an urban commuter (with the occasional curb jumping) or a true trail/mountain platform because the tires are less knobby (but still wide and grippy) and the frame offers mounting points for fenders and a rear rack. It’s a Class 1 pedal assist only bike that is limited to 20 mph making it better suited for trail use and if you’re mostly commuting the slightly less expensive and faster IZIP E3 Dash is probably a better fit. It also has suspension (though less robust) and comes stock with fenders, a rack and integrated LED lights installed.

Compared with the Tekoa iE from Raleigh, the E3 Peak offers sturdy 15 mm and 12 mm thru-axles, the fork has rebound adjust vs. preload, you get the rear rack and fender mount bosses and a kickstand mount. To me it’s a curious mix of robust features (the axles) and more urban-oriented extras but both electric bikes cost the same $2,799. The biggest difference is that the Tekoa iE is a 29er with larger diameter wheels and is offered in one extra size (Extra Large 21″) vs. the 17″ and 19″ only sizes for the E3 Peak. Additionally, the bikes use different headsets, the Peak has low-rise bars vs. flat and has a wider seat tube at 31.6″ which is good to know if you want even more comfort and plan on adding something like the Thudbuster ST.

Not a lot has changed in terms of operation since the 2015 model of the E3 Peak, I think they use the same high power motor and display panel which has automatic backlighting (that you can’t turn off). The display panel swivels to reduce glare but is more permanently fixed and the button pad on the left is still small, rubberized and easy to reach… but now instead of having a twist throttle compromising the right grip, you have the option to purchase a $50 boost button ring with 6 mph and 20 mph buttons that you hold to use throttle mode. This does change the bike class from 1 to 2 meaning it may not be permissible to use on all of the same trails but it’s great for city use and those who may have trouble starting from rest (carrying loads for example). I like the new black and blue color scheme vs. black and yellow in 2015 and prefer the Shimano Deore XT drivetrain which should hold up well despite the lack of shift sensing on the motor. The motor operates mostly based on cadence which makes it feel powerful but doesn’t start or stop as quickly and there are no brake lever motor inhibitors so a couple of times I felt myself trying to slow down with my brakes to shift gears while still pedaling gently (trying to change gears without mashing) only to find the motor activating and foiling my plans. Overall though, it’s a powerful and fun ebike with a solid two year comprehensive warranty and some great extras that make it well-rounded and useful in many situations vs. just off road like the Haibike HardSeven which does not have mounting points for a rack etc. but looks much cooler in my opinion.

Pros:

  • Sturdy 15 mm thru axle on the front wheel for stiffness off-road, also makes lining up the disc brake rotor easier to reduce zinging noises, the rear axle is also enlarged at 12 mm
  • Extremely powerful motor offering 73 Newton meters of torque, I climbed steep off-road terrain in the lowest level of assist without struggling
  • Because the top speed is limited to 20 mph and this is a pedal-assist only, it’s a Class 1 making it permissible on more trails but you can get the $50 boost button add-on if you want throttle mode and that will make it Class 2
  • Solid M395 hydraulic disc brakes from Shimano are easy to pull and provide great stopping power with 180 mm rotors front and rear, the levers don’t have motor inhibitors and since this motor is a bit delayed for stopping and mostly relies on torque sensing there are moments when I wish they did
  • Light weight air fork with rebound adjust and lockout means you can ride the bike more efficiently on flat paved surfaces if you’re commuting or navigate comfortably off-road with 100 mm travel
  • Both axles are upgraded to thicker 12 mm rear and 15 mm front for improved stiffness and better alignment of the disc brake rotors with the calipers and pads if you have to take them on/off to drive to a trail
  • Even though this model only comes in a high-step “diamond” frame design, it has been engineered with a sloping top tube to lower stand over height which makes holding the bike at rest or walking over it easier, I measured ~32 inches on the Large 19″ frame
  • Because the motor is mounted at the center of the frame along with the battery pack, weight is kept lower which improves stability, if you add a disc-brake compatible rear rack you’ll have plenty of room for gear to commute and it will be more solid than a beam rack
  • The center-drive system leverages your chain and 10 speed cassette to operate more efficiently for climbing or reaching higher speeds (though it’s limited to 20 mph to keep this Class 1), it offers better range than a similarly rated hub motor if you manage your gears properly but the high torque output is more limited than some comparable mid mid drives like Bosch
  • Higher-end parts all around including Shimano hydraulic disc brakes with a larger 180 mm rotors for improved stopping power, Shimano Deore XT derailleur for precision shifting and large stiff Wellgo alloy platform pedals for stability and grip
  • If you want even more ways to ride, a boost button can be added for $50 which offers two drive modes: a 6 mph starting speed (almost like walk mode, useful for helping you push the bike uphill) or full speed up to 20 mph acting as a traditional throttle, this will change the bike to to Class 2 rating
  • The motor is very capable at climbing and can easily hit the 20 mph top speed if you’re in the higher couple of gears, it’s also surprisingly quiet… but doesn’t offer the same high RPM as Bosch so your gear matters more

Cons:

  • The display panel and accompanying button pad can be a bit confusing at first, holding the power button icon for a few seconds when you’re in assist level 1 will take you down to zero (so you can use the display without the motor), it would be nicer if you could just arrow down to zero
  • The display unit is not removable so it could take more damage when the bike is parked outside or crammed into your trunk driving to a trailhead, thankfully the battery is
  • No bottle cage bosses on the seat tube here unfortunately but it’s pretty crammed there given the downtube-battery mount and most trail and mountain riders seem to use CamelBak packs for water these days
  • The battery pack must be activated before the display unit can be powered on, it’s a two step process that takes extra time and can create confusion when going straight for the display on/off
  • You get a lot of power with the high-torque motor but it’s not as responsive or dynamic (feels mostly like a cadence sensor in there) and the range is more limited than some of the other ebikes I’ve tested (estimate 15 to 30 miles per charge depending on the assist level you choose), there’s also no shift sensing so if you shift down while climbing at full power the chain, sprockets and derailleur will mash hard and could get damaged over time more easily

Resources:

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Jack Tyler
1 year ago

These 3 iZip reviews – the 2016 ProTour, Peak and Dash – have been interesting to view together. Court, it seems the iZip models are in the midst of a technology shift, motor wise. My impressions from your spoken reviews is that the M25GTS motor on the ProTour is a bit quieter, has a bit more torque sensing, and is virtually no less powerful (70 NM vs. 73 NM) than the M07 on this Peak and also the Dash. Are each of those fair conclusions? And given all 3 have 48V 8.7 Ah batteries, is it also reasonable to expect their range differences will be almost exclusively due to differences in weight, speed one attempts the Peak’s wider tire patches? (I’m *assuming* the two different motors will perform comparably re: range. Fair?) Gosh, I wish that ProTour integrated battery frame and smaller/lighter motor was offered on the Peak, as I have doubts the ProTour will be suitable for riding on a variety of hard packed trails. It also seems as tho’ the Peak is the only one of the three with a reasonable off-road fork. Ah choices, choices!

Reply
Court Rye
1 year ago

Hi Jack! You listened very well, that’s exactly how I feel but was unable to fully test the torque and power of the M25GTS because it isn’t installed on a true trail/mountain ebike. All of my riding was done on road but it did perform very well and just seemed like a refined version of the M07. If you’re doing trail riding the Peak would be a better choice due to nicer suspension and tires… but if you want to replace those and remove the rack, fenders and lights the ProTour could probably manage it. The Peak is really well done for 2016, it’s a bit improvement for me from 2015 and the boost button that’s available and interchangeable (just like batteries) brings it to the next level of versatility for me. I really learned to appreciate the M07 a lot more with this year’s reviews, it was as good if not better than Yamaha for climbing and was easier to use for me.

Reply
Steve Sevieria
1 year ago

Court, doesn’t the Peak go to 28 miles per hour with pedal-assist? My confusion is because your review and the Izip website both show 20 miles per hour maximum assist. But when I called Currie and also in the interview you did at Interbike 2015 with the Izip rep, it was stated to be 28 miles per hour with pedal assist. Also, the person I spoke to on the phone at Currie said they were working on updating the website to 28 miles per hour for the Peak AND the peak DS.

I figured you would push the hardtail Peak up to its top end while riding it for your review, so I’m concerned that the pedal-assisted top speed really is only 20 miles per hour. Do you have a definitive number? Thanks for everything you do for the electric bike community!

Reply
Court Rye
1 year ago

Hi Steve! Sorry for the delayed response here… I’ve been traveling. Wish I could be more clear on this but I thought it was limited to 20 mph to keep it Class 1 for 2016. This is a big change since 2015 when the bike did go ~28 mph in pedal assist. Based on the conversations I had and my experience riding the bikes during this recent visit to their headquarters I’d bet on 20 mph… but then again, sometimes these companies change things half way through the year. I’d love to hear about your hands on experience if you move forward with this ebike but unfortunately you do risk the time and effort of a return if they are misquoting. These companies often have a lot going on and it’s easy for the support guys/girls or web guys/girls to get stuff wrong. This is why I go and test and I’m fairly confident it’s just 20 mph specifically so it can be a Class 1 and allowed on more trails in California and beyond. Some of the other models that are on-road can and do go to ~28 mph including the E3 Dash and ProTour.

Reply

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Timpo
2 days ago

Hello everyone, I'm thinking about buying an Amego Elevate, it's a Canadian bicycle.
https://www.amegoev.com/buy-electric-bikes/electric-bicyles/amego-elevate.html

As you can see, the speed(with pedal, non throttle) is limited to 40km/h (25mph)

But if you look at Magnum Peak, it goes up to 45km/h (28mph)
https://www.magnumbikes.com/product/magnum-peak/

They look very similar, probably come from same manufacture, anyways, what do I need to make Amego Elevate a full Class 3 ebike? Is it just as easy as swapping the display?

I called Amego and they said they can't raise it to 45km/h(28mph)...also I don't want to buy Magnum Peak since the shipping & US/Canada conversion rate won't be cheap.

Thanks

BreakAes
6 days ago

Thanks for the input y'all.

I used to ride a Downtube Mini, so I'm familiar with riding a folding bike, and that one is probably about the smallest you can get. Of course that was before I got injured, but I understand the fat tires help a lot in terms of making the ride friendly.

One of the big reasons I think I need a folder is because the main tube is lower, and I have trouble getting on a regular bike. Yesterday I tried to straddle my roommates' bikes and I had to lay them down, step through the frame twice, then pick them up. It made me nervous, and I think I'd need to hold on to something while doing that. And I may want to low-ride, so I think the folders would be better for that. Also, if the seat is low enough, I might be able to get on the bike from the back. I'm going to have to see what happens when I test ride. With the Downtube Mini, my main gripe was the difficulty in climbing hills. If I feel the fat tire e-bikes are stable for me, then the electric power should take care of my main gripe with small folders.

Does anybody know if a BodyFloat would have a long enough seatpost to work with these folding e-bikes?

One of the things I was surprised by was the weight of the Rad Mini. I'll go with whatever's best overall, but of course less weight is preferable.

I was chatting with someone at the Sondors Facebook group, and he said, "The motor isn't what determines the power. The battery voltage and controller do. The Fold X is 48V (battery) x 15A (controller) = 720 watts stock. The Rad mini also uses a 48V battery but no mention of the controller amperage. Since they say it's limited to 20mph, it's probably a 10A or 15A controller which is the same or less than the Sondors..You should ask them what the controller output is. The Rad also has less capacity/range than the Sondors Fold X. The Sondors is 14Ah versus 11.6Ah for the Rad Mini. That's 20% more range for the Sondors. We also know that we can remove the speed limiter on the Sondors, AND add at least 30% more power at a cost of less than $60 (a 20A controller will give you 960W of power). As a bonus you would pay $600 more for the Rad Mini with less range and less power. Your decision though"

And I asked him why manufacturers mention the motor wattage, and he said,

"Because it's sexy and easy We've had folks running the stock 350w motor in the fat bikes at over 1000W by upgrading the controller and battery. The Bafang motors will handle way more power than their rating. My guess is that the 500W motor will handle 1200W of power just fine. We've had some members swap their 350W motors for 750W motors because they went from 36V to 52V and put in 35A controllers. Those monsters are doing 1800W. The motor wattage is pretty much a rating, not an output. A 500W motor will handle more power than a 350W motor, for example. But it's not the motor determining the power."

Is this info true? I assume he's correct. I'll send Rad an email to see what the Mini's controller output is.

One thing I don't like about the Rad Mini is that the battery is smaller, and if I wanted a spare it'd be $500! Anybody know about how much a spare battery would be for the Fold X?

Also, if I buy the Fold X, I want to purchase the Shimano gear option, right?

Thanks.

Edit: So I saw this at the Rad Mini's tech specs page: CONTROLLER: 48V 12 Amps Continuous (22 Amps Peak). Does this mean the Fold X has a better stock controller? Nevermind, apparently the Rad Mini has the better stock controller.

mrgold35
7 days ago

I was on the fence about a year ago between Sondors, Radrover, and Volt 4" fat tire bikes. I marked Sondors off the list because of the 30 day warranty and small motor. No one ever said "My ebike has too much power and I wish I've gone with a much smaller watt motor."

I'm about 270lbs and I add about another 20-25 lbs with bike accessories, rack+gear, and commuter back pack. The Radrover weights the same as the Radmini. I have zero issue pedaling in PAS 2-4 and/or using the throttle to get going across intersections in a hurry or up inclines. The Rad Power bikes have a nice feature of an on/off button for the twist throttle AND you have full 750 watts of power at any PAS level from 0-5. I added a clip on thumb throttle for easier access and better control. Also nice to have the throttle if you need to walk your bike up inclines or stairs. I trail ride a lot and thumb attachment makes it easier to access the gears, brake, throttle, and holding tight on handlebar grips. I would check with the Sondors X to see how the throttle works compared to the Radmini.

I ended up with purchasing two Rad Rovers and put over 3000 miles between them both in less than a year. I would also factor in a suspension seat post since the folding ebikes don't have a front suspension.

One side note: I always used PAS 5 on my work commutes with the standard Kenda tires and my top cruising speed was around 18-19 mph with peak (downhills) around 21-22 mph. I wore my rear Kenda out in around 800 miles and replaces with Vee8 tires. I can now cruise 19-20.5 mph in PAS 3-4 (depending on wind and how level) and my top peak speed is 23-25 mph on the same inclines. I never use PAS now and just use the throttle if I need full power for a short run.

fredi
1 week ago

This is my first ebike and my decision to buy her was based on getting the best ebike for me at the best price. First a little about me, I’m 60 years old, 6’1” and 230 lbs. A have a 34” Class-A RV and travel the east coast. On long trips I normally tow a Jeep Wrangler with a tray-style bike rack loaded with two or three mountain bike from a big box store. On short trips I leave the Jeep at home and mount the bike rack to the RV. Typical use of the bikes is for recreational riding in National and State parks. I thought it was time for a better bike and was intrigued with the idea of using ebikes and leaving the Jeep at home more.

I originally looked at Evelo because of their mid-drive with the NuVinci hub. They didn’t offer any local sales but work with local bike shops to provide service in conjunction with their 4-year/20,000-mile warranty. I was drawn to the Delta with the 750 watt mid-drive since all I’ve ever owned was mountain bikes and I wanted to make sure that it would get me up the hills. I soon discovered that where I live they only allow 500 watts and mid-drives are more efficient using the power, so while a 750 watt hub drive may struggle to get me up the hill, a 350 watt mid-drive should have less problems because they have higher performance, more torque and use less battery power. I also have always hated not being in the right gear at the right time and gnashing the gears and an Internally Geared Hub (IGH) like the NuVinci would solve those problems. Since I was planning on adding lots of comfort accessories like a plush seat, road tires, rear rack, fenders, lights, etc. and the Galaxy comes with all of those so I felt it was a better fit for me.

The Galaxy is billed as a comfort cruiser with an upright riding position, 27.5″ wheels and 2” tires on a ridge frame. Evelo makes two models the Galaxy, the GT with a step-through frame and the TT a traditional top tube frame. Each model comes in two versions, Premium or Fully Loaded. The Fully Loaded version upgrades the NuVinci N380 transmission to the Harmony fully automatic transmission and adds hydraulic brakes. So I ordered the Fully Loaded Galaxy TT version with a list price of $3899.

The bike came in about a week. She was double boxed and very well packed. The hardest part was getting the bike out of the box. I recommend having a little help here. Evelo isn’t kidding when they say the bike come almost fully assembled. Install the brake caliper, front wheel and fender, handlebars, headlight, and you’re done. They recommend charging the battery for 12 hours before the first use, so I plugged it in to charge overnight and then set about the process of assembling the bike which took about 30 minutes. They provided several allen wrenches, a couple of “real” boxed end wrenches and armed with the step by step instructions it was much easier to assemble than any bike I’ve ever bought from a big box store. My recommendation is that you put the fender on before you install the front wheel and then attach the brake caliper. The front wheel comes with a “Quick Release” so it’s really not a big deal.

The Galaxy is one of a small number of electric bikes that offer the NuVinci Harmony Automatic Transmission which allows me to enjoy the ride while it takes care of the shifting. In automatic it finds the proper gear while I dial in a comfortable cadence and set the assist level for my perfect ride. No more gnashing the gears and getting stuck on a hill because I was in the wrong gear. A simple button press changes the hub to manual mode, but I mostly I keep it in automatic on the lowest setting. The brushless motor combined with the Gates belt drive and the Harmony makes the ride smooth and virtually silent. I set the tire pressure to 50 lbs for a softer ride.

She comes with a 350 watt Bafang Max mid-drive motor (peak 600 watts) and uses a torque sensor (internal to the motor) and speed to determine how much power is drawn from the battery. The torque sensor uses a strain gauge inside the motor to measure pressure on the pedals. This allows for quick engagement and better sensitivity. I was concerned about the Galaxy’s uphill performance but found that she can easily climb hills at 8-12 mph that would normally bring me to a crawl. On level roads I can quickly reach the 20+ mph limit. At those speeds it’s nice to have the Tektro 180mm hydraulic disc brakes that provide great stopping power and simultaneously cut power to the motor. Once you stop there is a double fork kickstand to keep her upright.

The large backlit LCD display panel (made by King) is mounted center of the handlebars and can swivel forward or back to reduce glare. It’s easy to read and offers information about speed, distance, pedal assist, watts and a five segment battery charge level indicator. The control pad is located near the left grip, from there you can turn the bike on/off and select the level of assist. I really liked that holding the UP button turns on/off the backlight and holding the DOWN button activates “Walk” mode which moves the bike forward at about two mph. Pressing both the UP and DOWN buttons for 3 seconds puts you in the settings menu where you can increase the maximum speed to 25 mph, set the backlight level, and miles or kilometers. I set the wheel diameter to 27.5 inches since it defaulted to 26.

The bike has a thumb throttle but as a safety feature it doesn't engage unless the bike is moving. I originally thought I would need the throttle to get across an intersection or when starting up a hill, but the bike's torque sensor measures pressure on the pedals, so it quickly engages. It is so responsive and natural feeling that I haven't used the throttle much but I certainly have used “walk” mode several times.

The rear tail light is mounted directly beneath the battery rack so it isn’t blocked by my pannier and is powered by a couple of AA batteries. The LED Head Light has five modes and is USB rechargeable. It quickly installs on the handlebars with a rubber strap and the single large button on top makes it easy to turn on and change modes while riding.

Powering the bike is a 36 volt, 13 amp (468 wh) battery pack with an advertised 50 miles of range. I rode for over twenty miles before the charge indicator dropped from five to four bars. The battery weighs 8 lbs, can be charged on or off the bike and has its own level indicator. The small rubber cap protecting the charge terminal opens easily and stays closed. The battery is nicely protected in the full-size cargo rack and has a key lock which keeps it there and provides anti-theft security. You don’t need to leave the key in while riding and there’s a built-in handle to help remove the battery and carry it. Removing the battery makes it easier to lift the 46 lb bike onto my tray style carrier. The battery placement in the rack makes the bike a little heavy in the back, but frees up space for bottle cage bosses on the seat tube and allowed me to mount my folding lock on the down tube. All I did was add my Cloud-9 seat, bottle cage, pannier and a suspension seat post and I was ready to go.

After about a week of riding I took her to a local dealer for a full checkup. They did a minor adjustment to the brakes and gave her a clean bill of health, no charge. They were impressed at how well “I” put the bike together (LOL) and they loved the belt and throttle. I’ll be sure to make the checkup an annual event and return to that dealer.

Let me know if you have any questions

1/1
WilliamT
1 week ago

The Magnum Peak looks like a pretty nice bike that will have no problems with the hills. If your looking at that one, you should also look at Luna's Hardtail

https://lunacycle.com/luna-alite-hard-tail/

Two different technologies; one geared hub and the other a mid-drive. For steep hills, I would probably go with the mid-drive. I believe all the ones mentioned in this thread are mid-drives too.

If your comfortable fixing your own bike, you could also just buy the kit to put on your Stunt Jumper for about $1k. (assuming the battery fits in your frame)

Bicyclista
1 week ago

This a work in progress, and ignoring the extreme peak, you can get a general idea of peak output from a recent ride that completed using a Bosch CX motor with 50wh battery pack.

Watts V altitude.

Watts V speed of climb.

Very cool graphs, @EddieJ ! It shows that an electric motor can produce many times its nominal rating. Now, can your software show a smoothed average?

And, why should we ignore the extreme peaks? If sometimes they are needed, and the motor can deliver them without overheating, I welcome them!

EddieJ
1 week ago

There is a big difference between claimed figures to comply with regulations and actual "peak" numbers which all the motors are capable of. It seems that Brose is more compliant to regulations. On the plus side, Brose is more likely to have superior mileage per battery charge.

This a work in progress, and ignoring the extreme peak, you can get a general idea of peak output from a recent ride that completed using a Bosch CX motor with 50wh battery pack.

Watts V altitude.

Watts V speed of climb.

1/3
Dewey
2 weeks ago

Worksman trike, side by side seating, independent pedals, the 500w (750w peak) direct drive motor has a reverse gear (3mph). Low top speed (10mph) but you don't want to corner quickly on a trike. Short range (12 miles) but heavy weight capacity (600lb). A reviewer said it can handle moderate hills with pedaling.

Mark Peralta
2 weeks ago

Bosch themselves say that the CX motor maxes out at 120 rpm. So there's no way that it produces 400w at that speed. That's the main point. The 120 rpm is the crank speed. it's irrelevant what the actual motor speed is. The shape of the efficiency curve will be the same. The only thing that changes with gearing is the scale at the bottom of the graph.
There is a big difference between claimed figures to comply with regulations and actual "peak" numbers which all the motors are capable of. It seems that Brose is more compliant to regulations. On the plus side, Brose is more likely to have superior mileage per battery charge.

NikkiK
2 weeks ago

Thanks guys, there's a lot of information in here to digest. After thinking about it some more, I wonder if I should not try to get the best out of all worlds (trail and road) because I may end up getting a mediocre at everything type of bike. I'm a traditionalist with my actual mtn. bike - Stunt Jumper hard tail from mid 90's. Every time I go to upgrade, I have a hard time justifying the purchase of something that doesn't have a motor. In this case of an ebike I guess I can make that justification a little better, but going up to the $5-7K range seems like I should be driving an entire car around (albeit a cheap car). I'm headed out to go 'test drive' a few bikes in Salt Lake and hope to be able to get a better feel for it. Considering the Magnum Peak as an all around, but will give the longer range ones a try too. Chris, the Riese & Muller Delite Mtn. looks like the top of the line and of course once I try one of those on (or it's equiv. bike in SLC) I'm sure I'll throw all caution out the wind and then want the best / most expensive. At this point though, I'm trying to keep the range closer to 2K. Maybe that's a pipe-dream, but I'll want to save some $$ to upgrade my actual mtn. bike one day. ;-)

One quick question though, how important is weight on these bikes? I noticed that some 'carbon fiber' bikes are only a few pounds difference than some other bikes and I would assume with the bike the Chris mentioned weight would really be a factor. Is there a different SOTP (seat of the pants) feel when driving vs peddling all that weight up hill / long distances?

kevind
2 weeks ago

I'm with you
Bought my Peak a month ago and they told me they don't even have a manual for it. To use the Mi5 Manual - which doesn't cover that topic either...

J.R.
2 weeks ago

Hi,JimBow ,Thanks for the reply > I listen cause I am 66 and no nothing about E bikes ,and we have forgot more than the young people know ! But I have to rely on what other people know about ebikes ,I likeded xtream bikes cause of the power and the fwd sounded good .I f you find any bikes with 1000w or more let me know . Have you heard about the fat bikes from NY ,been out about 3 yrs .? Thanks Dogdad.
Don't let that advertised watt number be the deciding factor in the bike you purchase. To add some perspective, I have a friend with a stock 500 watt E-Bike Kit brand kit on a Diamondback bike that peaks at 1035 watts on my 18% grade road. Big hill that's 2.2 miles long, culminating in that grade, and he's going 15 mph, not breaking a sweat. I have a 350 watt bike, peaks just around 750 watts and a 500 watt bike that hits 800 watts. Then there are several bikes available today with the advertised 750 watt motors that never peak over 850 watts. Some of that information is available in the professional reviews, some from the manufacturers and some by user reviews. They all can do the job in most cases. The best way to get a sense of what will work for you would be to test ride some bikes. Many bikes will surprise you, some will disappoint. Another surprise is the amount of us baby-boomers on here ;) Good luck!

Mark Peralta
2 weeks ago

I certainly feel that both Yamaha and Brose put out more torque.
I found this chart for the Brose 2018 motor to be interesting.

That Brose torque vs rpm graph is very interesting. My calculated guess is that the red curve comes from the new Brose S drive. The peak torque has been expanded about 35% in both the lower and upper RPM range, so if the original upper was in the 80 rpm, the S drive continues to supply 90 NM up to ~108 rpm. That also correspond to 35 percent increase in power from 350 watts to about 475-500 watts. That would put it's performance profile somewhere in between the Bosch and the Shimano Drive.

Yamaha also has it's upgrade, the PW-X, but it looks like Yamaha focused it's performance improvement at the lower end of the rpm range and not much at the upper rpm range. Yamaha's strong point is the zero cadence that applies full torque from a standstill. If abused, it can also overheat the motor.

1/2
JRA
2 weeks ago

"JRA, those extra 7-9 lbs in front are good for weight distribution, but the traction will be affected. This will be felt more with powerful 1,000-1,200W motors that they have."

After a couple of thousand miles on these 1,240w peak bikes I do like the overall weight distribution of the bikes handling wise. Traction on very loose surface steep terrain has to be paid attention to but by pedaling a complementary gear to the amount of power the hub is getting so as to keep the wheels rotating in close to the same rpm as stated and proper body weight positioning it is not a problem. Otherwise the front wheel pulling works on the same basic principal as a front wheel drive car.

1/1
Dan Brandon
3 weeks ago

Hi, new member here, and just got a new Magnum Peak. I really like it and I've a lot to learn. Found his forum and looking forward to learning and helping.

I am having trouble getting into the set mode on my Magnum Peak. Says to hold down set button for two seconds but nothing happens. Am I doing something wrong? Want to change from kilometers to mph. Appreciate any help.

Dan Brandon
3 weeks ago

Hi, new member here, and just got a new Magnum Peak. I really like it and I've a lot to learn. Found his forum and looking forward to learning and helping.

I am having trouble getting into the set mode on my Magnum Peak. Says to hold down set button for two seconds but nothing happens. Am I doing something wrong? Want to change from kilometers to mph. Appreciate any help.

Mark Peralta
3 weeks ago

Using the GearCalculator app android with wheel 700x40c, cadence of 90 rpm, plate of 48 teeth and cassette of 11 teeth you have a top speed of 52km / h but if you change the plate of 48 teeth for a 22 teeth of bosh the top speed is 23 , 8 km / h, the rest of speed and effort is made by the bosh engine with the consequent higher consumption in peak watts.
The teeth of the bosch chain ring multiplied by 2.5 is equivalent to the non-bosch chain ring. The 22 teeth is actually the same as the 55 teeth to the non-bosch chain ring. So at 90 rpm cadence, it would be running at 59.6 kph.

Manu
3 weeks ago

My surprise is the consumption in watts of certain engines that supposedly are 250w to 350w of shimano and bosh ..... in theory they would now be working above their usual consumption. The one that cuts the revolutions to 100 or 130 is determined By the controller, yamaha I am not surprised the consumption because it has engines 250w to 500w to attend 45km / h.

I think that that excess consumption in the bosh and shimano is given by the size of teeth in the plates and cassette.

I think that maybe having more teeth in a dish gives more range of top speed to less cadence and that helps the engine in more percentage and maximum speed can remove extra charge and therefore consumption in extra watts ....... . In this section the yamaha are leaders because it has option until double plate of 34/44 and 38/48 teeth, the human force accompanies the engine in much more regime of speed and saves watts hours.

Using the GearCalculator app android with wheel 700x40c, cadence of 90 rpm, plate of 48 teeth and cassette of 11 teeth you have a top speed of 52km / h but if you change the plate of 48 teeth for a 22 teeth of bosh the top speed is 23 , 8 km / h, the rest of speed and effort is made by the bosh engine with the consequent higher consumption in peak watts.

emco5
3 weeks ago

Motorcycle engines in sport bikes tend to have peaky powerbands. That narrowness of energy creates a ride where you keep the engine revs boiling while you tap the shifter to maintain the rpm. Good fun with a motorcycle on a twisty backroad. Mid-drive PAS eBikes with the same narrow peak power range are not as fun because it’s your legs that keep the crank spinning at the required rpm. As terrain varies, so does your need to spin. Motorcycles best suited to everyday commuting have flatter powerbands. That applies to eBikes, too. A mid-drive that provides a useable level of assist over a wide rpm range is going to be less frenetic. Having a Yamaha or Bosch PL system, as reflected in that chart, would drive me nuts.

JayVee
3 weeks ago

The Yamaha has the correct curve generally speaking, although it doesn't drop off nearly that quickly. The peak is around 85 RPMs and it starts fading at about 95 RPMs. However you can still get good power out of it over 100 RPMs even in ECO mode. In fact it's a great way to save battery life. I often ride at 105RPMs on flatter sections, and it's clear to me that the chart is way off the mark above 100RPMs. I'm a really lazy person and I think I'd notice it if the drive provided close to 0 Watts assistance at that cadence... :D

pxpaulx
3 weeks ago

I've very surprised by the Brose curve, notably the poor peak performance. I have both a full suspension emtb with the Bosch CX motor and one with the Brose. I actually like the performance of the Brose better. Feels to me like it has as much power, but almost silent. I do tent to ride the Brose in the #2 power setting (out of 3) and rarely change it, whereas with the Bosch I constantly switch between Tour & Turbo modes depending on assistance needed in my effort to extend range. Just got the new emtb update yesterday and haven't been able to try it yet.

I'll be curious to see what you think of the new bosch emtb mode. I had my bulls updated in the spring with the latest firmware, I could tell the difference (and a 4th level of assist was also added). I much prefer the Brose power delivery than bosch, it feels like a more natural riding experience. Bosch may provide a little more power, but it also feels slightly detached from the riding experience.

Also agreed with @Sonoboy - it would be much nicer to have an independent testing group. I appreciate that emtb magazine article discussing the strengths and weaknesses of the current mid-drive motors out there, maybe that and actually riding the different motors are really all that is needed!

Alphbetadog
3 weeks ago

I've very surprised by the Brose curve, notably the poor peak performance. I have both a full suspension emtb with the Bosch CX motor and one with the Brose. I actually like the performance of the Brose better. Feels to me like it has as much power, but almost silent. I do tent to ride the Brose in the #2 power setting (out of 3) and rarely change it, whereas with the Bosch I constantly switch between Tour & Turbo modes depending on assistance needed in my effort to extend range. Just got the new emtb update yesterday and haven't been able to try it yet.

carl2017
3 weeks ago

Li-ion battery 36V10.4AH $116/pc

Specification:
Using 18650 3.7v2600mah cell 10s4p;
With BMS, continuous discharge current 15A,peak discharge current 40A
PVC shrink package
Battery size according to requirement;
With cell holder;

Above price without include charger.

carl2017
3 weeks ago

18650 3.7v2600mah cell for electric bike battery, electric scooter battery using

Specification:
Capacity:2600mah
Voltage:3.7v
Inner resistance:<35mΩ
Continuous discharge current:2C
Peak discharge current 3C
Price: $1.75/pc

Casey Neistat
1 year ago

The road racing bike with drop bars you tested was it limited to 28 miles an hour or could it go faster unlimited on a straight flat road ?

joes joey
1 year ago

what do you think about the SPECIALIZED – LEVO HT COMP 6FATTIE compared to a ohm fat bike or other high class electric bikes? can it pass the 20mph limit ? of course not in the streets but off road on private land can it pass 20mph like the ohm fat bike?thanks and great videos really appreciate your passion for electric cycling !!

Clinton Baltazor
1 year ago

How do these bikes perform in the rain, cold weather, or a really windy day! Whats the durability factor? Your weather is not like the rest the country! Just my opinion, otherwise indepth and quality review! I really like the Izip line of ebikes!

Casey Neistat
1 year ago

Great review again.

FRANK ROBY
1 year ago

good value.

JV
1 year ago

+FRANK ROBY Lol not really.