IZIP E3 Peak Review

2016 Izip E3 Peak Electric Bike Review
2016 Izip E3 Peak
2016 Izip E3 Peak 72 Nm Output Mid Drive Motor
2016 Izip E3 Peak 48 Volt Battery Pack Removable
2016 Izip E3 Peak Tranzx Lcd Display Panel
2016 Izip E3 Peak Currie Electro Drive Button Pad
2016 Izip E3 Peak 180 Mm Disc Brake Rotors
2016 Izip E3 Peak 10 Speed Shimano Deore Xt
2016 Izip E3 Peak Suntour Raidon Xc Lo Air Suspension 100 Mm Travel
2016 Izip E3 Peak 2 Amp Battery Charger
2016 Izip E3 Peak Electric Bike Review
2016 Izip E3 Peak
2016 Izip E3 Peak 72 Nm Output Mid Drive Motor
2016 Izip E3 Peak 48 Volt Battery Pack Removable
2016 Izip E3 Peak Tranzx Lcd Display Panel
2016 Izip E3 Peak Currie Electro Drive Button Pad
2016 Izip E3 Peak 180 Mm Disc Brake Rotors
2016 Izip E3 Peak 10 Speed Shimano Deore Xt
2016 Izip E3 Peak Suntour Raidon Xc Lo Air Suspension 100 Mm Travel
2016 Izip E3 Peak 2 Amp Battery Charger


  • A 650B hardtail trail or mountain ebike with a powerful 73 Nm mid-drive motor, it's one of the quieter motors but less responsive (mostly cadence sensing) and no shift sensing
  • Nice 180 mm hydraulic disc brakes, quick release for both wheels and a 15 mm front and 12 mm rear axle for improved stiffness, 100 mm air fork with rebound and lockout
  • Could make an excellent weekend warrior bike where you ride it on pavement to work during the week then go off-road for fun occasionally because it has bosses for a rear rack and fenders
  • Class 1 limited top speed of 20 mph and no throttle (the most widely accepted class for trail riding), optional boost button to add 20 mph button throttle mode

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Video Review

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E3 Peak



Body Position:


Suggested Use:

Urban, Trail, Mountain

Electric Bike Class:

Pedal Assist (Class 1), Throttle on Demand (Class 2)
Learn more about Ebike classes


2 Year Comprehensive, Lifetime Frame


United States

Model Year:


Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

49 lbs (22.22 kg)

Battery Weight:

6.1 lbs (2.76 kg)

Motor Weight:

9.5 lbs (4.3 kg)

Frame Material:

6061 Aluminum Alloy

Frame Sizes:

17 in (43.18 cm)19 in (48.26 cm)

Geometry Measurements:

32" Stand Over Height and 74" Length on the Large 19" Frame

Frame Types:


Frame Colors:

Gloss Black with Blue and White Accents

Frame Fork Details:

SR Suntour Raidon-XC-LO-R Suspension with 100 mm Travel, Rebound Adjust and Lockout, 15 mm Thru-Axle with Quick Release

Frame Rear Details:

Alloy 142 / 12 mm with Quick Release

Attachment Points:

Rear Rack Bosses, Fender Bosses

Gearing Details:

10 Speed 1x10 Shimano Deore XT, 11-32T

Shifter Details:

Shimano Deore XT Triggers on Right


Lasco EB05, Alloy Guide, 42T


Wellgo Aluminum Alloy Platform, Black


Tapered Head Tube, VP Semi-Integrated Ahead


Tranz-X 3D forged Alloy 31.8 mm Diameter


Tranz-X DB Alloy 31.8 mm Diameter, 700 mm x 30 mm, Low Rise

Brake Details:

Shimano M396 Hydraulic Disc with 180 mm Rotors


Velo Flat Rubber, Locking


Velo Racing

Seat Post:

Tranz-X Alloy with Quick Release Collar

Seat Post Length:

320 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

31.6 mm


Alex Volar 2.3 Doublewall, Aluminum Alloy, Tubless Ready, Brass Nipples


Stainless Steel 13 Gauge, Black

Tire Brand:

Kenda Kapture K1148 Dual-Use, 27.5" x 1.95"

Wheel Sizes:

27.5 in (69.85cm)

Tire Details:

30 TPI, 30 to 80 PSI

Tube Details:

Presta Valve


Aluminum Alloy Chain Guide


Locking Removable Battery Pack, 2 Amp 1.8 Pound Charger

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:

Currie Electro-Drive® (TranzX), Model M07

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Geared Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

350 watts

Motor Peak Output:

400 watts

Motor Torque:

73 Newton meters

Battery Brand:

Samsung or LG

Battery Voltage:

48 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

8.7 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

417.6 wh

Battery Chemistry:


Charge Time:

5 hours

Estimated Min Range:

15 miles (24 km)

Estimated Max Range:

35 miles (56 km)

Display Type:

Fixed Monochrome Backlit LCD with Adjustable Angle


Speed, Odometer, Battery Capacity (5 Bars), Assist Level (0-4), Range Estimation

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pad on Left

Drive Mode:

Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist (Optional Button Throttle)

Top Speed:

20 mph (32 kph)

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Written Review

The 2016 IZIP E3 Peak is one of the most powerful mid-drive electric bikes I’ve tested for trail and mountain style riding. The M07 motor by TranzX delivers 73 Newton meters of torque and is surprisingly quiet. With a 27.5″ wheelset the bike feels nimble but also stable and comfortable going over bumps. The air suspension fork is light weight and offers both rebound adjustment and lockout, the latter of which is great for riding efficiently on paved surfaces. This e-bike would work well as an urban commuter (with the occasional curb jumping) or a true trail/mountain platform because the tires are less knobby (but still wide and grippy) and the frame offers mounting points for fenders and a rear rack. It’s a Class 1 pedal assist only bike that is limited to 20 mph making it better suited for trail use and if you’re mostly commuting the slightly less expensive and faster IZIP E3 Dash is probably a better fit. It also has suspension (though less robust) and comes stock with fenders, a rack and integrated LED lights installed.

Compared with the Tekoa iE from Raleigh, the E3 Peak offers sturdy 15 mm and 12 mm thru-axles, the fork has rebound adjust vs. preload, you get the rear rack and fender mount bosses and a kickstand mount. To me it’s a curious mix of robust features (the axles) and more urban-oriented extras but both electric bikes cost the same $2,799. The biggest difference is that the Tekoa iE is a 29er with larger diameter wheels and is offered in one extra size (Extra Large 21″) vs. the 17″ and 19″ only sizes for the E3 Peak. Additionally, the bikes use different headsets, the Peak has low-rise bars vs. flat and has a wider seat tube at 31.6″ which is good to know if you want even more comfort and plan on adding something like the Thudbuster ST.

Not a lot has changed in terms of operation since the 2015 model of the E3 Peak, I think they use the same high power motor and display panel which has automatic backlighting (that you can’t turn off). The display panel swivels to reduce glare but is more permanently fixed and the button pad on the left is still small, rubberized and easy to reach… but now instead of having a twist throttle compromising the right grip, you have the option to purchase a $50 boost button ring with 6 mph and 20 mph buttons that you hold to use throttle mode. This does change the bike class from 1 to 2 meaning it may not be permissible to use on all of the same trails but it’s great for city use and those who may have trouble starting from rest (carrying loads for example). I like the new black and blue color scheme vs. black and yellow in 2015 and prefer the Shimano Deore XT drivetrain which should hold up well despite the lack of shift sensing on the motor. The motor operates mostly based on cadence which makes it feel powerful but doesn’t start or stop as quickly and there are no brake lever motor inhibitors so a couple of times I felt myself trying to slow down with my brakes to shift gears while still pedaling gently (trying to change gears without mashing) only to find the motor activating and foiling my plans. Overall though, it’s a powerful and fun ebike with a solid two year comprehensive warranty and some great extras that make it well-rounded and useful in many situations vs. just off road like the Haibike HardSeven which does not have mounting points for a rack etc. but looks much cooler in my opinion.


  • Sturdy 15 mm thru axle on the front wheel for stiffness off-road, also makes lining up the disc brake rotor easier to reduce zinging noises, the rear axle is also enlarged at 12 mm
  • Extremely powerful motor offering 73 Newton meters of torque, I climbed steep off-road terrain in the lowest level of assist without struggling
  • Because the top speed is limited to 20 mph and this is a pedal-assist only, it’s a Class 1 making it permissible on more trails but you can get the $50 boost button add-on if you want throttle mode and that will make it Class 2
  • Solid M395 hydraulic disc brakes from Shimano are easy to pull and provide great stopping power with 180 mm rotors front and rear, the levers don’t have motor inhibitors and since this motor is a bit delayed for stopping and mostly relies on torque sensing there are moments when I wish they did
  • Light weight air fork with rebound adjust and lockout means you can ride the bike more efficiently on flat paved surfaces if you’re commuting or navigate comfortably off-road with 100 mm travel
  • Both axles are upgraded to thicker 12 mm rear and 15 mm front for improved stiffness and better alignment of the disc brake rotors with the calipers and pads if you have to take them on/off to drive to a trail
  • Even though this model only comes in a high-step “diamond” frame design, it has been engineered with a sloping top tube to lower stand over height which makes holding the bike at rest or walking over it easier, I measured ~32 inches on the Large 19″ frame
  • Because the motor is mounted at the center of the frame along with the battery pack, weight is kept lower which improves stability, if you add a disc-brake compatible rear rack you’ll have plenty of room for gear to commute and it will be more solid than a beam rack
  • The center-drive system leverages your chain and 10 speed cassette to operate more efficiently for climbing or reaching higher speeds (though it’s limited to 20 mph to keep this Class 1), it offers better range than a similarly rated hub motor if you manage your gears properly but the high torque output is more limited than some comparable mid mid drives like Bosch
  • Higher-end parts all around including Shimano hydraulic disc brakes with a larger 180 mm rotors for improved stopping power, Shimano Deore XT derailleur for precision shifting and large stiff Wellgo alloy platform pedals for stability and grip
  • If you want even more ways to ride, a boost button can be added for $50 which offers two drive modes: a 6 mph starting speed (almost like walk mode, useful for helping you push the bike uphill) or full speed up to 20 mph acting as a traditional throttle, this will change the bike to to Class 2 rating
  • The motor is very capable at climbing and can easily hit the 20 mph top speed if you’re in the higher couple of gears, it’s also surprisingly quiet… but doesn’t offer the same high RPM as Bosch so your gear matters more


  • The display panel and accompanying button pad can be a bit confusing at first, holding the power button icon for a few seconds when you’re in assist level 1 will take you down to zero (so you can use the display without the motor), it would be nicer if you could just arrow down to zero
  • The display unit is not removable so it could take more damage when the bike is parked outside or crammed into your trunk driving to a trailhead, thankfully the battery is
  • No bottle cage bosses on the seat tube here unfortunately but it’s pretty crammed there given the downtube-battery mount and most trail and mountain riders seem to use CamelBak packs for water these days
  • The battery pack must be activated before the display unit can be powered on, it’s a two step process that takes extra time and can create confusion when going straight for the display on/off
  • You get a lot of power with the high-torque motor but it’s not as responsive or dynamic (feels mostly like a cadence sensor in there) and the range is more limited than some of the other ebikes I’ve tested (estimate 15 to 30 miles per charge depending on the assist level you choose), there’s also no shift sensing so if you shift down while climbing at full power the chain, sprockets and derailleur will mash hard and could get damaged over time more easily


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Jack Tyler
2 years ago

These 3 iZip reviews – the 2016 ProTour, Peak and Dash – have been interesting to view together. Court, it seems the iZip models are in the midst of a technology shift, motor wise. My impressions from your spoken reviews is that the M25GTS motor on the ProTour is a bit quieter, has a bit more torque sensing, and is virtually no less powerful (70 NM vs. 73 NM) than the M07 on this Peak and also the Dash. Are each of those fair conclusions? And given all 3 have 48V 8.7 Ah batteries, is it also reasonable to expect their range differences will be almost exclusively due to differences in weight, speed one attempts the Peak’s wider tire patches? (I’m *assuming* the two different motors will perform comparably re: range. Fair?) Gosh, I wish that ProTour integrated battery frame and smaller/lighter motor was offered on the Peak, as I have doubts the ProTour will be suitable for riding on a variety of hard packed trails. It also seems as tho’ the Peak is the only one of the three with a reasonable off-road fork. Ah choices, choices!

Court Rye
2 years ago

Hi Jack! You listened very well, that’s exactly how I feel but was unable to fully test the torque and power of the M25GTS because it isn’t installed on a true trail/mountain ebike. All of my riding was done on road but it did perform very well and just seemed like a refined version of the M07. If you’re doing trail riding the Peak would be a better choice due to nicer suspension and tires… but if you want to replace those and remove the rack, fenders and lights the ProTour could probably manage it. The Peak is really well done for 2016, it’s a bit improvement for me from 2015 and the boost button that’s available and interchangeable (just like batteries) brings it to the next level of versatility for me. I really learned to appreciate the M07 a lot more with this year’s reviews, it was as good if not better than Yamaha for climbing and was easier to use for me.

Steve Sevieria
2 years ago

Court, doesn’t the Peak go to 28 miles per hour with pedal-assist? My confusion is because your review and the Izip website both show 20 miles per hour maximum assist. But when I called Currie and also in the interview you did at Interbike 2015 with the Izip rep, it was stated to be 28 miles per hour with pedal assist. Also, the person I spoke to on the phone at Currie said they were working on updating the website to 28 miles per hour for the Peak AND the peak DS.

I figured you would push the hardtail Peak up to its top end while riding it for your review, so I’m concerned that the pedal-assisted top speed really is only 20 miles per hour. Do you have a definitive number? Thanks for everything you do for the electric bike community!

Court Rye
2 years ago

Hi Steve! Sorry for the delayed response here… I’ve been traveling. Wish I could be more clear on this but I thought it was limited to 20 mph to keep it Class 1 for 2016. This is a big change since 2015 when the bike did go ~28 mph in pedal assist. Based on the conversations I had and my experience riding the bikes during this recent visit to their headquarters I’d bet on 20 mph… but then again, sometimes these companies change things half way through the year. I’d love to hear about your hands on experience if you move forward with this ebike but unfortunately you do risk the time and effort of a return if they are misquoting. These companies often have a lot going on and it’s easy for the support guys/girls or web guys/girls to get stuff wrong. This is why I go and test and I’m fairly confident it’s just 20 mph specifically so it can be a Class 1 and allowed on more trails in California and beyond. Some of the other models that are on-road can and do go to ~28 mph including the E3 Dash and ProTour.


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Mark Peralta
9 mins ago

1. Looking further at the hub drive efficiency
2. Exploring for more ways to increase the motor efficiency
3.The pros and cons of positioning the motor at the crank.

A hub motor's efficiency loss at lower speed can be minimized by reducing the limit current from 50A to 30A. The start up torque and and power at low speed is slightly decreased but the peak power is still retained and most especially, the efficiency at lower speed is slightly increased (yellow green curve).

However, if the limit current is further decreased (for the sake of more efficiency), there won't be enough torque that is needed for the motor to start from a dead stop, or to climb hills.

If we really want to prioritize efficiency even if it means sacrificing torque and power output, then it won't be appropriate anymore as the original hub drive. However, it can still work in 2 ways. First is by the use geared hub and increase the gear ratio high enough for adequate start up torque and torque for the hills while sacrificing top speed. The second method is by relocation of the motor to the crank and then take full advantage of the multiple gear ratios from the drive train. We will continue by exploring the second method, which is the mid drive. But first, we will further expand the efficiency of the motor at the expense of decrease in power.

A huge reduction of the limit current from 50A all the way to 12A further broadens the efficiency band of the motor (peak power goes down from 750W down to 450W). On this new power curve (light blue curve) The peak motor power coincides with the peak efficiency of the motor (in contrast to the 50A and 30A, where the peak motor power and peak efficiency are at different motor speeds). The start up torque and torque at low speed is not that important anymore since it is channeled through the drive train. However, this is in exchange for mandatory downshifts at the stops and hills. All in the attempt to increase efficiency.
In this example, the same hub motor is used and applied as a mid drive. The gear reduction at the crank is strategically chosen so that it will coincide with the cyclist's normal cadence range (~ 70-90PRM) . As long as the rider pedals within the normal cadence range (yellow window), the motor will operate at peak efficiency all the time, conserving energy and increasing the range of the battery. Notice the new power curve at 12A (light blue curve at the chart above) is similar to the Bosch and Shimano power curve on the chart below.

A similar simulation is found here with the hub drive with standard controller

And then the limit current is reduced to 12A and comaparing between the two.

With the new power curve at 12A, the speed is changed to cadence (RPM x 0.3) for mid drive application. (You can play around with the throttle to simulate percentage level of pedal assist)

Using a mid drive to gain efficiency is easier said than done, since in actual application, the most troublesome part of the ride is the mashing of the drive train when changing gears, and the associated loss of momentum and loss of speed in the process. Sometimes, the efficiency gain is lost in actual translation when going uphill and then missed to shift in the right gear and then you slowed down or even come to a full stop. Whatever efficiency gain you had are now all gone.

Cutting the power to gain efficiency results to performance handicap to the mid drives (slow acceleration) when compared to hub drives, most especially noticed in stop and go situations. Just imagine having to downshift especially if the stops are very near apart and very frequent. That would be an unpleasant riding experience with a sore shifting thumb, from a supposedly efficient ebike.

However, the big players are working hard to fine tune their mid drives to make it as user friendly as hub drives. And I think there will be more sophisticated controllers in the future with a "city mode" button or push button dedicated to provide enough start up torque without having to downshift.

Or you can just pair it to a continuously variable transmission (CVT) like the Nuvinci Harmony where it will keep your cadence in the efficient zone automatically and also shifts down to the lowest gear (first gear equivalent) at every stop. However, the price of this Nuvinci Harmony is still prohibitive to most riders, for now.


1 week ago

Sorry, I am very new to this ebike thing. Is it possible to run an ebike (say a bbso2 mid drive) off a 36v battery with only 2.6ah? We are moving to europe but I would like to build the bike before we go since it needs to be adapted to carry a dog too..

FYI. While cleaning out my garage and swapping the lawnmower for the snowblower, I decided to do some science. No, a 750W BBS02 kit from Lunacycle will not run on 36V. Even fully charged at 42 volts. the Ryobi isn't enough, It might be possible to use the progamming cable and a PC to set the motor up for 36V, but I don't have the cable, electing not to mess with that stuff.

However, I do have a 12volt, 9 cell lithium battery that I added in series to the Ryobi. I took it around for a half mile. The combo was able to push out 20A peak current. I didn't think the Ryobi could do that. With the regular battery, the motor will draw 25A, SInce the Ryobi was never intended to push those current levels, you'll have a short range ride and eventually ruin the battery.

1 week ago

Class III as described by the CA. law and being adopted in other states does allow for 28mph but doesn't address the wattage it takes to get there, but 750w, né 960w even, is not going to maintain that speed unless you are on flat ground with no wind for very long.

750w of motor assist on a speed pedelec will allow you to maintain 28mph on flat ground if there isn’t a strong headwind. What more power allows you to do is hold that speed across a wider range of conditions (headwind and\or incline.) Also, as the battery depletes you lose peak power. So with that 20A \ 48v controller you would be down 200w of peak power once the battery voltage drops 10v.

Ken M
1 week ago

-Bulls Outlaw
-The new generation Easy Motion hub drives
-Juicebikes CCS - Torah names his power assist as "dynamic assist", no jerky on-off propulsion.
-Magnum- some riders report jerky on-off feel at low speeds.

I tend to think of geared hub motors as unique from gear-less hub motors. While the gear reduction in a geared hub motors certainly provides more torque it does so at the expense of reduced reliability (the internal gears are almost always plastic and they will wear out of time ... I've read that many tend to need replacement every 5,000 - 10,000km while a gear-less hub drive has literally no wear-out expect for the axle bearings which can last up to 100,000km).

The sad result of the motor regulations in Europe usually pushes the technology towards mid-drives because the internal gear reductions multiple the torque of low wattage motors. In the US the 750W regulation provides a unique opportunity for a gear-less hub motor to provide a better solution overall.

Note: In reality the 750W rating is dubious because peak ratings tend to ignore the specification. In reality any motor could be rated at 750W based on a test protocol. Unless both the controller and motor are considered in the drive specification the regulations are of no real legal merit (which is a good thing for anyone really wanting a good performance eBike and not some slow European eBike limited to 20mph max assist speed.

I know now I'll get a bunch of haters telling me that 20mph is fast enough and anything faster is not safe because they are scared to ride faster. Serious get a life and let those that feel comfortable riding at 20-40mph enjoy some assist at those speeds.

Ken M
1 week ago

I think the industry over-prioritizes the European granny-power limit of 25oW. This essentially drives a significant % of the bike designs towards mid drives (not that they are not the best configuration for mtn bikes). The US power limit of 750W is still a bit lower than is really needed to enable an eBike to become a truly viable transportation product but it's much better. I have no clue why the big OEM don't have all motors produced to allow 750W nominal minimum (higher peak levels for a duration of a few minutes to complete an occasional hill) and just program the power level down in those EU countries that are scared of anyone going faster than 28kpm (may as well be walking).

Mark Peralta
3 weeks ago

Technology Bern University of Applied Sciences have conducted an efficiency test and concluded that geared hub drive (Maxxon for example) are most efficient compared to several Bosch and other mid-drive motors.

This should give a solid evidence to prove that mid-drives are not the most ideal in all cases. All this talk of efficiency is just pure talk. I also know from experience that my geared hubs gave me more range than mid-drives. Again, there are + and - to both but simply saying mid-drives are efficient is just BS. Please look at the detailed reports below. I still think a good geared hub motor coupled to a torque sensor gives the best power and range combo. [MAC, Easy motion 2018 geared hubs]

Here is a video:

Summary of the test:

Reports for each candidate bikes:

Specialzied levo: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Specialized_Levo.pdf

Cube Reaction pro: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Cube_Reaction_Pro.pdf

Bergamont E-roxter: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Bergamont_E-Roxter50plus.pdf

Haibike hardnine: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Haibike_HardNine_5.0_2run.pdf

Scott E-aspect: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Scott_E-aspect.pdf

Diavelo e650i: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Diavelo_e650i.pdf

Giant Dirt- E: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Giant_Dirt-E.pdf

Flyer uproc 2: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Flyer_uproc_2.pdf

Wheeler I-reader HD: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Wheeler_I-Reader_HD.pdf

Whistler Bware: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Whistle_Bware_2run.pdf

Ghost Kato: https://www.ti.bfh.ch/fileadmin/data/aktuell/forschung/ebike/Messbericht_Ghost.pdf

Hi Ravi, that's a very interesting post since I am excited to see a very efficient hub drive. I don't see the Maxon hub drive as one of the ebikes tested in the article.
They were all mid drives and one hub drive which was the Diavelo. Extract of the article were the following:

Wheeler rider HD, yamaha PWX, 500wh battery = 45 km or 11.0 wh/km
Cube reaction pro500, Bosch CX, 500 wh battery = 46 km or 10.8 wh/km
Bergamont Roxster, Bosch perf cruise, 500 wh battery = 49 km or 10.3 wh/km
Haibike Xduro hardnine, Bosch CX, 500 wh battery = 44 km or 11.3 wh/km
Flyer UPROC, Panasonic motor, 500 wh battery = 38 km or 11.3 wh/km
Specialized Levo, Brose, 460 wh battery = 37 km or 12.6 wh/km
Giant Dirct E, Yamaha sync dr, 409 wh battery = 41 km or 10.1 wh/km
Scott Aspect, Bosch motor, 506 wh battery = 41 km or 12.3 wh/km
Stoke E-blade, Bosch perf CX, 400 wh battery = 38 km or 10.6 wh/km
Whistle B ware, Bosch perf CX, 510 wh battery = 40 km or 10.1 wh/km
Ghost Kato2, Shimano E6000, 418 wh battery = 44 km or 9.5 wh/km
Diavelo E9501, Diavelo hub drive, 420 wh battery = 28 km or 17.6 wh/km

On that comparison the mid drives consumption ranges from 9.5 wh/km to 12.6 wh/km. There was only one hub drive and it comsumed more energy at 17.6 wh/km.

The Maxon drive provides promise for high efficiency from it's claimed 10.0 wh/km.
However, I want to see the source if it was from in-house information or from an independent test. If you can send me the link, I would greatly appreciate it.

Where was the image above taken?
I don't see it from Maxon website.
The hub drive can have a higher peak efficiency considering less energy is wasted from the mechanical transmission. But That's all theory, a third party side by side comparison would be very interesting and very exciting since Maxon claims it can attain 10.0 wh/km consumption.

Regardless, the difference in efficiency is minimal but a hub drive is much easier to ride than a mid drive and preserves the life of the drive train (more durable).

3 weeks ago

I have a 2014 izip e3 peak it uses the same batts how much do u want for the batts?

3 weeks ago

There are a few states that have 1000w limits in the law books. Oregon where I live is one of them.

It is kind of a game at this point. Some EU spec 250w bikes can peak at over 600w depending on how they are programmed and a US 750w bike with a 48v battery and a 20amp controller that is a popular option will peak @ 960w. The big thing to me is the speed restriction which is 15.5mph EU and 20mph US and bikes programmed to those restrictions will be only that fast under power, and hard to pedal above that unless on a downhill grade or with a tailwind.

Class III as described by the CA. law and being adopted in other states does allow for 28mph but doesn't address the wattage it takes to get there, but 750w, né 960w even, is not going to maintain that speed unless you are on flat ground with no wind for very long.

6 days ago

The 9 only you get performance downhill because to really take advantage of light pedelec with 4 kilos less,you need to maintain a higher peak speed with any rise or low gradient.. 3º to 5º and the 9 teehts dont help.

If you exceed 25km / h the effort is multiplied, to pedal without counting the wind against and also of assistance, added to the position of 90º human and the wheels less rolling and a greater weight does not compensate to put the 9 teeth.

you remove 1 kilo weight to your pedelec and gain 6 seconds for 1 km of ascent with human effort.10km =60 seconds.

Easier for the human and easier for the engine.

The easy way is to remove weight on the wheels and have more torque to distribute at top speed, if you are going to make the pedelec more road and less of MTB is easy ..... tire changes or full solution, change wheel to 28 inches and a very light tire that supports the weight pedelec and user.

The cheapest solution that I forget is to take off one's body weight, lose weight by getting fit if this is possible.


Mark Stonich
1 month ago

Thanks for your answer. She had a motorcycle accident when younger. Things were actually fine until last year when she slipped on an ice patch and broke her knee cap. That's when the knee problems started to come back. There's a loss of strength accompanied by pain when putting too much pressure on the knee. Walking is not a problem, but carrying heavy loads is no longer possible. Not sure of all the details, as it's a friend's wife. I offered to help put the bike/kit together as they're both over 75.

In a lot of cases the apparent lack of strength isn't that the muscle isn't strong, but pain prevents you from applying full tension with it. Reducing the bend in the knee with short cranks and spinning freely (easier with shorties) often helps. That she has no trouble walking, where the knee isn't loaded while bent, suggests that reducing the bend MAY help. She should run this past her Ortho and PT to get their opinion.

If she's a candidate for knee replacement, everyone I know who's had one, including my wife, says they should have done it sooner. 7 weeks after Jane's TKR she was climbing much better than before. And she rode 9 miles the day before her surgery. But after replacement, a lot of people lose range of motion and still need shorties. I've sold at least 100 sets 100mm or shorter to adults. Many to people with knee replacements whose PT wasn't aggressive enough.

If you want to have them contact me I can help them determine if short cranks are likely to help. I have all the work I want/need and would have retired years ago if there was someone else, anywhere on the planet, doing the work. So if her situation doesn't warrant shorties, I won't try to talk them into anything to try to make a sale. If nothing else, I can offer her some strategies for biking with bad knees. And Jane can share her experience with the Copenhagen Wheel.

Mark Stonich; BikeSmith Design & Fabrication
5349 Elliot Ave S. Minneapolis, MN 55417 USA
Ph. (612) 710-9593 http://bikesmithdesign.com
https://www.flickr.com/photos/bikesmith/ (Mostly Wildlife)

Recommended reading;
Crank Length, Leg Length and Power
Short Women / Short Crank Feedback
Range of Motion Limitations & Crank Length

In case they worry that short cranks will cost her power;

I recently got a phone call from an average sized adult mountain biker who says he's climbing familiar hills 1 or 2 gears higher on 135s than he'd used with 175s before he messed his knee up. He was just hoping shorties would let him ride again. Now he wants to get back into racing. He’s in Big Bear Lake California where the “Hills” are mountains.

A local Gravel Road racer is 6'-2” (188cm) and after much trial and error finds he is fastest on 135s despite having no RoM or other issues.

Another 6’2” gent in Texas competes in long distance Brevets on 95mm cranks due to severe range of motion limits. Another man with range of motion limits is climbing the hills of San Francisco with a single 38t chainring and a 12-25 cassette, also on 95s. The fellow in San Francisco bends pedal spindles. I just heard from another gent who does the grueling 200 mile Seattle to Portland on 95s.

One of my customers, 5'-7" (170cm) tall professional triathlete Courtney Ogden, won the big money 2011 Western Australia Ironman on 145s. He's done extensive work with the people at PowerCranks where they are becoming big advocates of shorter cranks.

A few years ago a team of 4 Australian MTB racers, ranging in height from 5'10 to 6"1 won a 24 hour MTB race on 125s. With the shorter cranks they rarely had to stand. conserving energy. And they were able to get by with a single chainring, before today’s monster cassettes, because the useful RPM range is so wide with shorties. Many customers have reported that they notice themselves needing to shift much less often.

This from a serious roadie with severe range of motion limitations;
"I’m 5’8” 168lbs – regarding strength, I’m not the strongest. However, I’m not the last up the hills and can do more than my fair share on the front of the group. The 115mm Andels you made for me still have no issues what so ever, I’m on my second set of rings! Please send me another set of 115s for my new bike.”
Knee Friendly Pedaling

Riders usually push down on the pedals by using their quads to straighten the knee joint. First pushing the pedal forward, then down. There is always going to be a bit of this going on but you can do a lot to reduce the loads on your knees.

Try concentrating on using your glutes and hip flexors to swing your knees up and down. Relax your quads and just let everything below the knee act as a connecting rod between the knees and pedals. At the bottom of the pedal stroke use your hamstrings just a little bit to pull your foot back as though you were scraping mud off your shoe. Don't consciously push forward at the top of the circle. That's when knees are most bent and the tissues around them are most vulnerable.

If you aren't clipped into the pedals, and most of the time even if you are, you don't pull up on the pedal. But the idea of using the hip flexors to lift the knee is to reduce the amount of work done by the front foot that is wasted by raising the weight of the other leg and foot. If you aren't clipped into your pedals you don't want to completely unweight the upward foot. Some contact is needed to keep it located on the pedal. A grippy pedal like a spiky MTB platform or the MKS Grip King (AKA Lambda) makes this easier.

Pedalling on the mid-foot instead of the ball of the foot reduces stress on the knee. And testing has shown that it increases endurance, at a slight cost in peak power. However, be careful to avoid toe/tire interference.

If you do this while spinning freely, in low gears, you won't have to apply much force with any single muscle group. If you aren't comfortable spinning, your cranks are probably too long. 21-21.6% of inseam is best for healthy, non-triathlets, without joint issues. When a person is uncomfortable at higher RPM it isn't due to the muscles switching from extension to contraction more often. It is because their muscles are extending and contracting at a speed that is too fast for them. This recruits more fast twitch muscles, which produce more heat and lactic acid. Shortcranks reduce this speed by moving the muscles a shorter distance per revolution. Allowing more use of slow twitch fibers for a higher comfortable cadence.

Your quads will still end up doing much of the work. But easing some of the tension pulling your patella down onto the joint can make a big difference. When I get a twinge in my knee, it reminds me to concentrate on my pedaling and I actually accelerate.

BTW I read about this type of pedaling years ago, as a way to help you spin better. So it has a double benefit.

For eBike types, think of more efficient pedaling as a way to lessen drain on your batteries. ;)

Va. Bch. Electric Bike Center
1 month ago

Hi all,

I have narrowed my choices down to 3 very different ebikes. I have found these three for almost exactly the same price. They are all around $2200 or 2300 including shipping and all brand new.

I have looked at lots of reviews on all 3. I am looking for opinions on which one would be the best as far as long lasting and quality of components. Anyone have any thoughts and opinions?

The three bikes are as follows:

Izip Electric bike Peak+
Tern Vektron
Riese and Muller Roadster Touring

Thank you!
Test ride, test ride and test ride! It's the only way.

1 month ago

Hi all,

I have narrowed my choices down to 3 very different ebikes. I have found these three for almost exactly the same price. They are all around $2200 or 2300 including shipping and all brand new.

I have looked at lots of reviews on all 3. I am looking for opinions on which one would be the best as far as long lasting and quality of components. Anyone have any thoughts and opinions?

The three bikes are as follows:

Izip Electric bike Peak+
Tern Vektron
Riese and Muller Roadster Touring

Thank you!

2 months ago

I too have the Trek Super Commuter since June this year and am breaking the 1700 mile barrier as of today. Many different conditions on roads and trails and I am considering a suspension fork. Coming from an Izip E3 Peak I can say it’s a totally different ride but I do miss the RockShox. If I do spring for the fork I want to get the right one the first time so any advice is welcomed. Going to the Expo in Philadelphia on Nov 4th. Hopefully some manufacturers reps will be there to pick their brains.

2 months ago


Patented BH frame with integrated battery creates clean frame lines.
Now 20% higher torque, reaching a peak power of 860W.
AWD model with a 350W rear and 250W front geared hub motors.
PAS (pedal assist) up to 20MPH, 28MPH on the NITRO model, w/POD (power on demand) offered on URBAN models.
Pedal Assist and Throttle (except EVO AWD BIG BUD).

Bosch eBike Systems
2 months ago

BOOGALOO eMTB Race heading to Southern California

Join the fun at the SoCal Endurance Race at the Vail Lake Resort in Temecula, CA Nov 4th

Oct 18th, 2017 Temecula, CA – THE BOOGALOO, a Class 1 pedal-assist mountain bikes (eMTB) race and demo event presented by Troy Lee Designs & Bosch eBike Systems, is heading to Southern California after a sold-out & stoked-up race at the Kamikaze Bike Games in Mammoth. Check out this video from Troy Lee Designs recapping the race, as well as the video produced by Transworld Motocross.

The race will be held Saturday November 4th on a course specifically designed for eMTB racers and built by legends like Brian Lopes, David Cullinan, Ryan Hughes and both previous champions of the Pro Class Victor Sheldon and Evander Hughes. Expect near-vertical ascents, killer drops, obstacles, berms, and more that will take you and your eMTB to the limits of what you thought possible on two wheels.

Limited registration is filling up fast for 32 Amateur “Race of Champions” slots. The early-bird entry fee of $60 is available until Oct 31st and will have you treated like a pro for the day with a Class 1 eMTB provided by Bulls, Haibike, Raleigh Electric, and Specialized set up to your specifications. Riders will also get a custom Troy Lee Designs A1 helmet, number plate, fender and commemorative t-shirt to take home along with some great stories from the event. The fastest five will win a premium Bosch Power Drill. REGISTER NOW before all entries are sold out. Also take advantage of the early-bird pre registration price as on site entries will increase to $75 per rider.

The Pro Class eMTB race will take place immediately following the Amateur race, where pros will compete for a $2,000 purse and Power Tools.

“These events are just full of stoke. I am pumped that we are able to get the Vail Lake eMTB race together so quickly following the success of the recent Boogaloo race at the Mammoth Kamikaze Games. We have already been cutting the coarse and it’s shaping up great, this is going to be one exciting day of racing!” -Troy Lee

If racing isn’t your blood, FREE demos will be also be available before and after the race on a custom built course suited for beginner riders near the registration area of the So Cal Endurance / So Cal Enduro at Vail Lake. Bikes from Raleigh Electric, Haibike, Bulls Bikes and Specialized, will be on hand with representatives from each brand to set up and educate riders on Class 1 eMTB riding.

Demo Schedule:

Friday 11/3/17 – 1pm – 5pm

Saturday 11/4/17 – 9am – 12pm

Sunday 11/5/17 – 9am – 12pm

“I want to give a big congrats and thanks to all the our Mammoth Boogaloo racers who poured their hearts out there on the track. We had teens racing against men and women three times their age, and many legends from the extreme sports world.” said Claudia Wasko, General Manager of Bosch eBike Systems Americas. “We look forward to seeing who returns to Vail Lake to challenge our reigning Pro-Class champ Evander Hughes.”

Race Director of So Cal Endurance and So Cal Enduro, Jason Ranoa said. “ I am looking forward to hosting my first Class 1 eMTB event. We will be racing and doing demo’s on a closed course in hopes to educate MTB riders about what Class 1 eMTB is all about. You can’t help but smile after taking a lap on our course!”

Class 1 is a specific classification for sustainable use on any trail, path or riding area. Class 1 eMTB models are defined as “a human powered bicycle with fully operable pedals, and an electric motor under 750 Watts peak power that must be pedaled to activate the motor and that ceases to provide power above 20 mph”. (See Photo 4 for Class 1 visual)

Once again please visit the pre registration page for early-bird pricing by clicking here - http://www.socalendurance.net/boogaloo.html


Contacts for press inquiries:

Aaron Cooke, Proper Management

Phone: 714-720-5872


Andy Ambrosius, Tech Image

phone: +1-312-888-1628


2 months ago

The video is good, however, it is not a fair comparison nor an accurate one.

The Rad actually is putting out over 1000w peak (22a x 48v = 1056), which is 2x more than the Sondors at just over 500w peak (15a x 36v = 540). So showing the Rad zooming past the Sondors while putting out double the watts doesn't tell the whole story.

The Rad Rover costs $500 more which allows for better components. To do this comparison right, you should have compared a Sondors X 48v 500w (20a x 48v = 960) which would have been a much closer in performance and still $250 cheaper than the Rover even with the 7 speed, front suspension upgrade and shipping. Add a 25a aftermarket controller for $65 and the X puts out 1200w vs the Rads 1056w peak for still $200 less than the Rad. The Rad does have 750w motor but as you can see the wattage difference is not that much with both stock bikes at peak power. Another huge difference is that X comes with a much larger battery than the Rover 17.5aH vs 11.6aH.

Overall the Rad is probably a better eBike if you compare it from top to bottom. But for little over $1000, the Sondors X is a better overall value.

Geoffrey Bloom
2 months ago

Has anyone confirmed that the Magnum Peak has 90nm of torque? It really does appear to be a value priced, good quality speed pedelec. I could not find a DAS-KIT motor on their website that produced 90nm (most of their geared hub motors we in the neighbor hood of 40nm which will still perform pretty well but not achieve 28mph with some reasonable rider effort.
Yes, I have a Magnum Peak and it is definitely at least 90nm. It takes off the line quickly. My friend with his Specialized Turbo Levo (also 90nm but only 36v) can not even come close to keeping up with me. And I have achieved and sustained speeds of 28mph.

Ken M
2 months ago

All electric motors has a bell curve of the efficiency range (albeit skewed) when plotted against RPM. That is the efficiency of converting electrical energy from the battery to mechanical energy in the motor. The peak is usually in the low to mid 80's %. A 500 watt hub drive's peak efficiency will depend on how it is wound and geared. In the US there are the 20 mph and the 28 mph hubs. The peak efficiency will be somewhere below 20 mph (15-18 mph) or for the speed pedelec it will be proportionally at higher speed, maybe from 19-26 mph.

When it comes to the load. The new controllers now use MOSFETS that feed optimum load all the time for maximum efficiency (gone are the inefficient variable resistors of the past), but the optimum current is produced in pulses and the pulses are controlled or modulated by there width, pulse width modulation or PWM. So the load is always near optimum with the new controllers.

Small mid drives has the potential to have the highest overall efficiency by taking advantage of the gear ratios and keeping the RPM within the optimum range.

Ken M
2 months ago

Has anyone confirmed that the Magnum Peak has 90nm of torque? It really does appear to be a value priced, good quality speed pedelec. I could not find a DAS-KIT motor on their website that produced 90nm (most of their geared hub motors we in the neighbor hood of 40nm which will still perform pretty well but not achieve 28mph with some reasonable rider effort.

Mark Peralta
2 months ago

For riding on hilly paved roads .
Any real world difference in acceleration and climbing ?
There is another thread here at ebr forum where a Brose owner complains about how slow it is compared to the Bosch CX.
However, I don't think that the Brose is inferior to the Bosch. Both are reputable giants. I think it is just tuned differently and dialed more for maximum range over high peak power.

Geoffrey Bloom
2 months ago

Could be, depending on model and how you spec it out (Sterzing starts at about $7500). It is state-of-the-art Carbon frame, dual piston, brakes, etc etc.


But if you are looking for the best value / performance ratio out there, it is the Magnum peak for sure. It has the basic essentials like 48v battery / power and 90nm of torque, hydraulic brakes, 24 gears, 29" wheels - all for about $2000.


John from Connecticut
2 months ago

Hello all - I need some help. I am getting the below 4x4 Sprinter Van that has a bed that raises. I want to put two bikes under the bed that fit when it is lowered - which will require taking the front wheel off.

What my requirements are:

A fun - want to ride every day - ride.
Suspension (through forks / tires) that will allow us to ride on easy to medium trails. I assume the full suspension bikes can't take a bike rack.....
Must have a bike rack as we will be taking camping stuff at least 10 miles down the trail... or getting groceries.
Long lasting battery.
Tough as we will be banging this thing around.
Unique - I love having cool things that spark conversations. Not to show off - but to start a conversation... I like to talk....
Weight - In my experience the lighter the bike the better the carve. But... I understand the electric bike is a lot heavier which is fine - expected - but 70+ pounds I wonder if that is too heavy for some of these??

We will be peddling a lot - I have a Carbon Fiber DaVinci (which is over my head in capabilities) so I want a bike that I can peddle a lot of the time.... maybe 50% on assist 1 or 2.. At least that is my vision - might change as I've never had an electric bike! I'm 48 and still want to go to places that others people aren't.

The bikes (I need two - one for me / one for my girl -- 5' 10" / 5' 6") that I'm kind of excited about are:

Haibike SDURO Trekking 9.5 - a little expensive and unsure about the off road capability. Looks like it is well put together - well thought out bike. Looks mad cool. A take down from this bike might be the M2S XC Sport?? Half the price.

M2S R750 Looks like a nice bike for the price. Looks like it is mad fun and has decent options. Unsure if that is an actual 750 Watt motor or the peak? Wish the battery was 52v. 62 pounds.

RadRover Man I love this company - flew from Key Largo up to Seattle to tested the bike. My only problem with the RadRover is that it seems that it hasn't been updated that much. I wish it had an option for a better battery and forks.

Volt Yukon Limited Looks like a real nice bike - possibly a step above the Rad but that is more like a Ford / Chevy argument.... they are too close to call so go with the one that looks the best. And the Volt guy is a little aggressive replying to comments anywhere the Volt is talked about. If I had to pick between the two - I think I would go Volt but would choose the R750 over both.

Teo S Another well priced bike and it seems to be a pretty nice one with a 750W motor . I am unsure how it compares the other Rad / Volt. Looks like the people who bought this bike really like it. But that is all relative -

Bulls / Specialized / Trek / and many other high end brands that make amazing bikes... but they seem to be a lot more expensive. I'm sure super nice rides - but is the price justified?

M2S XC Sport
M2S R750
Volt Yukon Limited
Teo S

Hello SV Moving On,
Looking for opinions on e-Bikes. I purchased a Trek XM700+ this past July and I absolutely love it ! My average daily ride is 20-ish miles and I hate to stop.

The Bosch Performance Motor is silky smooth, but very powerful, the Intuvia Controller is simple to use. My XM700+ glides along bringing me great joy....Hills, 'there are none' : ) I never thought cycling could be so much fun !... I made one change and added the Cirrus Bodyfloat seat post which I consider and absolute must. For me the frame stiffness was more then my back would tolerate, but the Bodyfloat is a marvelous piece of engineering, now my Trek is so comfortable...

The disk brakes are strong, extremely smooth and boy do they work. The swept back handlebars and the ergonomic grips make for a very comfortable ride.... The bike feels rock solid and is very well built. I've put on a little over 1000 miles in 3 months.

I'm sure there are many fine e-bikes out there, and I'm sure a few that are 'not so fine', but to me the Trek XM700+ plus is worth every penny and I'd do it all over again...

In fact I'm sort of doing that. I just ordered a Trek Powerfly 7 Mountain Bike based on my 700+ experience. I want to ride gravel/stone dust trails and I don't feel stable enough on the 7oo. The bike is fine, the issue is me, my 71 year old agility isn't what it used to be.

One last thing...A bike rack. I bought a Sirrus Freedom SuperClamp 2. It is great, once the hitch is installed, the rack is simple to install and remove from your vehicle. The rack is well built. Sirrus is a US company ( Madison Wisconsin ) . They've been in Wisconsin for 40 years, long before the catch phrase "Make America great again" . : ) I hope this was helpful.
All the best, John

Mark Peralta
2 months ago

Does anyone know what percentage of electrical energy input actually gets converted into forward motion?

At, say, 500W power consumption, how much energy remains to turn the wheel as opposed to heating the motor?

I presume the conversion efficiency varies a great deal with speed and load?
All electric motors has a bell curve of the efficiency range (albeit skewed) when plotted against RPM. That is the efficiency of converting electrical energy from the battery to mechanical energy in the motor. The peak is usually in the low to mid 80's %. A 500 watt hub drive's peak efficiency will depend on how it is wound and geared. In the US there are the 20 mph and the 28 mph hubs. The peak efficiency will be somewhere below 20 mph (15-18 mph) or for the speed pedelec it will be proportionally at higher speed, maybe from 19-26 mph.

When it comes to the load. The new controllers now use MOSFETS that feed optimum load all the time for maximum efficiency (gone are the inefficient variable resistors of the past), but the optimum current is produced in pulses and the pulses are controlled or modulated by there width, pulse width modulation or PWM. So the load is always near optimum with the new controllers.

Small mid drives has the potential to have the highest overall efficiency by taking advantage of the gear ratios and keeping the RPM within the optimum range.

2 months ago

Just got the new pack yesterday, will share some initial impressions:

This pack is awesome! barely larger than the stock sized packs, 100% compatible on any of their bikes with the inframe style battery (in 48V). No problem fitting it on my Stunner LT, weight difference is very minor and the pack is not particularly any taller, just a bit wider out the left side (about 7/8"). Cell gain would be about 50% more (78 cells versus 52, rough guess)

Peak voltage off the charger seems to be the same as my smaller pack, 55.0V (equating to 13S), so there's no cheating for amp-hour gains with voltage sacrifice. This pack will all around perform better, and based on that voltage it should have around 1,100 Watt-hour peak!!!

Will provide some further dimensional/weight/range test details next week (and snap a pic), for now I'm extremely glad Roshan got these produced... Great upgrade for anybody looking to get a big range boost!

I really like those Stunner LTs. I almost bought one but decided on the Juggernaut Ultra.

Casey Neistat
2 years ago

The road racing bike with drop bars you tested was it limited to 28 miles an hour or could it go faster unlimited on a straight flat road ?

joes joey
2 years ago

what do you think about the SPECIALIZED – LEVO HT COMP 6FATTIE compared to a ohm fat bike or other high class electric bikes? can it pass the 20mph limit ? of course not in the streets but off road on private land can it pass 20mph like the ohm fat bike?thanks and great videos really appreciate your passion for electric cycling !!

Clinton Baltazor
2 years ago

How do these bikes perform in the rain, cold weather, or a really windy day! Whats the durability factor? Your weather is not like the rest the country! Just my opinion, otherwise indepth and quality review! I really like the Izip line of ebikes!

Casey Neistat
2 years ago

Great review again.

2 years ago

good value.

2 years ago

+FRANK ROBY Lol not really.