IZIP E3 Peak Review

2016 Izip E3 Peak Electric Bike Review
2016 Izip E3 Peak
2016 Izip E3 Peak 72 Nm Output Mid Drive Motor
2016 Izip E3 Peak 48 Volt Battery Pack Removable
2016 Izip E3 Peak Tranzx Lcd Display Panel
2016 Izip E3 Peak Currie Electro Drive Button Pad
2016 Izip E3 Peak 180 Mm Disc Brake Rotors
2016 Izip E3 Peak 10 Speed Shimano Deore Xt
2016 Izip E3 Peak Suntour Raidon Xc Lo Air Suspension 100 Mm Travel
2016 Izip E3 Peak 2 Amp Battery Charger
2016 Izip E3 Peak Electric Bike Review
2016 Izip E3 Peak
2016 Izip E3 Peak 72 Nm Output Mid Drive Motor
2016 Izip E3 Peak 48 Volt Battery Pack Removable
2016 Izip E3 Peak Tranzx Lcd Display Panel
2016 Izip E3 Peak Currie Electro Drive Button Pad
2016 Izip E3 Peak 180 Mm Disc Brake Rotors
2016 Izip E3 Peak 10 Speed Shimano Deore Xt
2016 Izip E3 Peak Suntour Raidon Xc Lo Air Suspension 100 Mm Travel
2016 Izip E3 Peak 2 Amp Battery Charger

Summary

  • A 650B hardtail trail or mountain ebike with a powerful 73 Nm mid-drive motor, it's one of the quieter motors but less responsive (mostly cadence sensing) and no shift sensing
  • Nice 180 mm hydraulic disc brakes, quick release for both wheels and a 15 mm front and 12 mm rear axle for improved stiffness, 100 mm air fork with rebound and lockout
  • Could make an excellent weekend warrior bike where you ride it on pavement to work during the week then go off-road for fun occasionally because it has bosses for a rear rack and fenders
  • Class 1 limited top speed of 20 mph and no throttle (the most widely accepted class for trail riding), optional boost button to add 20 mph button throttle mode

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Video Review

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Introduction

Make:

IZIP

Model:

E3 Peak

Price:

$2,799

Body Position:

Forward

Suggested Use:

Urban, Trail, Mountain

Electric Bike Class:

Pedal Assist (Class 1), Throttle on Demand (Class 2)
Learn more about Ebike classes

Warranty:

2 Year Comprehensive, Lifetime Frame

Availability:

United States

Model Year:

2016

Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

49 lbs (22.22 kg)

Battery Weight:

6.1 lbs (2.76 kg)

Motor Weight:

9.5 lbs (4.3 kg)

Frame Material:

6061 Aluminum Alloy

Frame Sizes:

17 in (43.18 cm)19 in (48.26 cm)

Geometry Measurements:

32" Stand Over Height and 74" Length on the Large 19" Frame

Frame Types:

High-Step

Frame Colors:

Gloss Black with Blue and White Accents

Frame Fork Details:

SR Suntour Raidon-XC-LO-R Suspension with 100 mm Travel, Rebound Adjust and Lockout, 15 mm Thru-Axle with Quick Release

Frame Rear Details:

Alloy 142 / 12 mm with Quick Release

Attachment Points:

Rear Rack Bosses, Fender Bosses

Gearing Details:

10 Speed 1x10 Shimano Deore XT, 11-32T

Shifter Details:

Shimano Deore XT Triggers on Right

Cranks:

Lasco EB05, Alloy Guide, 42T

Pedals:

Wellgo Aluminum Alloy Platform, Black

Headset:

Tapered Head Tube, VP Semi-Integrated Ahead

Stem:

Tranz-X 3D forged Alloy 31.8 mm Diameter

Handlebar:

Tranz-X DB Alloy 31.8 mm Diameter, 700 mm x 30 mm, Low Rise

Brake Details:

Shimano M396 Hydraulic Disc with 180 mm Rotors

Grips:

Velo Flat Rubber, Locking

Saddle:

Velo Racing

Seat Post:

Tranz-X Alloy with Quick Release Collar

Seat Post Length:

320 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

31.6 mm

Rims:

Alex Volar 2.3 Doublewall, Aluminum Alloy, Tubless Ready, Brass Nipples

Spokes:

Stainless Steel 13 Gauge, Black

Tire Brand:

Kenda Kapture K1148 Dual-Use, 27.5" x 1.95"

Wheel Sizes:

27.5 in (69.85cm)

Tire Details:

30 TPI, 30 to 80 PSI

Tube Details:

Presta Valve

Accessories:

Aluminum Alloy Chain Guide

Other:

Locking Removable Battery Pack, 2 Amp 1.8 Pound Charger

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:

Currie Electro-Drive® (TranzX), Model M07

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Geared Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

350 watts

Motor Peak Output:

400 watts

Motor Torque:

73 Newton meters

Battery Brand:

Samsung or LG

Battery Voltage:

48 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

8.7 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

417.6 wh

Battery Chemistry:

Lithium-ion

Charge Time:

5 hours

Estimated Min Range:

15 miles (24 km)

Estimated Max Range:

35 miles (56 km)

Display Type:

Fixed Monochrome Backlit LCD with Adjustable Angle

Readouts:

Speed, Odometer, Battery Capacity (5 Bars), Assist Level (0-4), Range Estimation

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pad on Left

Drive Mode:

Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist (Optional Button Throttle)

Top Speed:

20 mph (32 kph)

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Written Review

The 2016 IZIP E3 Peak is one of the most powerful mid-drive electric bikes I’ve tested for trail and mountain style riding. The M07 motor by TranzX delivers 73 Newton meters of torque and is surprisingly quiet. With a 27.5″ wheelset the bike feels nimble but also stable and comfortable going over bumps. The air suspension fork is light weight and offers both rebound adjustment and lockout, the latter of which is great for riding efficiently on paved surfaces. This e-bike would work well as an urban commuter (with the occasional curb jumping) or a true trail/mountain platform because the tires are less knobby (but still wide and grippy) and the frame offers mounting points for fenders and a rear rack. It’s a Class 1 pedal assist only bike that is limited to 20 mph making it better suited for trail use and if you’re mostly commuting the slightly less expensive and faster IZIP E3 Dash is probably a better fit. It also has suspension (though less robust) and comes stock with fenders, a rack and integrated LED lights installed.

Compared with the Tekoa iE from Raleigh, the E3 Peak offers sturdy 15 mm and 12 mm thru-axles, the fork has rebound adjust vs. preload, you get the rear rack and fender mount bosses and a kickstand mount. To me it’s a curious mix of robust features (the axles) and more urban-oriented extras but both electric bikes cost the same $2,799. The biggest difference is that the Tekoa iE is a 29er with larger diameter wheels and is offered in one extra size (Extra Large 21″) vs. the 17″ and 19″ only sizes for the E3 Peak. Additionally, the bikes use different headsets, the Peak has low-rise bars vs. flat and has a wider seat tube at 31.6″ which is good to know if you want even more comfort and plan on adding something like the Thudbuster ST.

Not a lot has changed in terms of operation since the 2015 model of the E3 Peak, I think they use the same high power motor and display panel which has automatic backlighting (that you can’t turn off). The display panel swivels to reduce glare but is more permanently fixed and the button pad on the left is still small, rubberized and easy to reach… but now instead of having a twist throttle compromising the right grip, you have the option to purchase a $50 boost button ring with 6 mph and 20 mph buttons that you hold to use throttle mode. This does change the bike class from 1 to 2 meaning it may not be permissible to use on all of the same trails but it’s great for city use and those who may have trouble starting from rest (carrying loads for example). I like the new black and blue color scheme vs. black and yellow in 2015 and prefer the Shimano Deore XT drivetrain which should hold up well despite the lack of shift sensing on the motor. The motor operates mostly based on cadence which makes it feel powerful but doesn’t start or stop as quickly and there are no brake lever motor inhibitors so a couple of times I felt myself trying to slow down with my brakes to shift gears while still pedaling gently (trying to change gears without mashing) only to find the motor activating and foiling my plans. Overall though, it’s a powerful and fun ebike with a solid two year comprehensive warranty and some great extras that make it well-rounded and useful in many situations vs. just off road like the Haibike HardSeven which does not have mounting points for a rack etc. but looks much cooler in my opinion.

Pros:

  • Sturdy 15 mm thru axle on the front wheel for stiffness off-road, also makes lining up the disc brake rotor easier to reduce zinging noises, the rear axle is also enlarged at 12 mm
  • Extremely powerful motor offering 73 Newton meters of torque, I climbed steep off-road terrain in the lowest level of assist without struggling
  • Because the top speed is limited to 20 mph and this is a pedal-assist only, it’s a Class 1 making it permissible on more trails but you can get the $50 boost button add-on if you want throttle mode and that will make it Class 2
  • Solid M395 hydraulic disc brakes from Shimano are easy to pull and provide great stopping power with 180 mm rotors front and rear, the levers don’t have motor inhibitors and since this motor is a bit delayed for stopping and mostly relies on torque sensing there are moments when I wish they did
  • Light weight air fork with rebound adjust and lockout means you can ride the bike more efficiently on flat paved surfaces if you’re commuting or navigate comfortably off-road with 100 mm travel
  • Both axles are upgraded to thicker 12 mm rear and 15 mm front for improved stiffness and better alignment of the disc brake rotors with the calipers and pads if you have to take them on/off to drive to a trail
  • Even though this model only comes in a high-step “diamond” frame design, it has been engineered with a sloping top tube to lower stand over height which makes holding the bike at rest or walking over it easier, I measured ~32 inches on the Large 19″ frame
  • Because the motor is mounted at the center of the frame along with the battery pack, weight is kept lower which improves stability, if you add a disc-brake compatible rear rack you’ll have plenty of room for gear to commute and it will be more solid than a beam rack
  • The center-drive system leverages your chain and 10 speed cassette to operate more efficiently for climbing or reaching higher speeds (though it’s limited to 20 mph to keep this Class 1), it offers better range than a similarly rated hub motor if you manage your gears properly but the high torque output is more limited than some comparable mid mid drives like Bosch
  • Higher-end parts all around including Shimano hydraulic disc brakes with a larger 180 mm rotors for improved stopping power, Shimano Deore XT derailleur for precision shifting and large stiff Wellgo alloy platform pedals for stability and grip
  • If you want even more ways to ride, a boost button can be added for $50 which offers two drive modes: a 6 mph starting speed (almost like walk mode, useful for helping you push the bike uphill) or full speed up to 20 mph acting as a traditional throttle, this will change the bike to to Class 2 rating
  • The motor is very capable at climbing and can easily hit the 20 mph top speed if you’re in the higher couple of gears, it’s also surprisingly quiet… but doesn’t offer the same high RPM as Bosch so your gear matters more

Cons:

  • The display panel and accompanying button pad can be a bit confusing at first, holding the power button icon for a few seconds when you’re in assist level 1 will take you down to zero (so you can use the display without the motor), it would be nicer if you could just arrow down to zero
  • The display unit is not removable so it could take more damage when the bike is parked outside or crammed into your trunk driving to a trailhead, thankfully the battery is
  • No bottle cage bosses on the seat tube here unfortunately but it’s pretty crammed there given the downtube-battery mount and most trail and mountain riders seem to use CamelBak packs for water these days
  • The battery pack must be activated before the display unit can be powered on, it’s a two step process that takes extra time and can create confusion when going straight for the display on/off
  • You get a lot of power with the high-torque motor but it’s not as responsive or dynamic (feels mostly like a cadence sensor in there) and the range is more limited than some of the other ebikes I’ve tested (estimate 15 to 30 miles per charge depending on the assist level you choose), there’s also no shift sensing so if you shift down while climbing at full power the chain, sprockets and derailleur will mash hard and could get damaged over time more easily

Resources:

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Jack Tyler
1 year ago

These 3 iZip reviews – the 2016 ProTour, Peak and Dash – have been interesting to view together. Court, it seems the iZip models are in the midst of a technology shift, motor wise. My impressions from your spoken reviews is that the M25GTS motor on the ProTour is a bit quieter, has a bit more torque sensing, and is virtually no less powerful (70 NM vs. 73 NM) than the M07 on this Peak and also the Dash. Are each of those fair conclusions? And given all 3 have 48V 8.7 Ah batteries, is it also reasonable to expect their range differences will be almost exclusively due to differences in weight, speed one attempts the Peak’s wider tire patches? (I’m *assuming* the two different motors will perform comparably re: range. Fair?) Gosh, I wish that ProTour integrated battery frame and smaller/lighter motor was offered on the Peak, as I have doubts the ProTour will be suitable for riding on a variety of hard packed trails. It also seems as tho’ the Peak is the only one of the three with a reasonable off-road fork. Ah choices, choices!

Court Rye
1 year ago

Hi Jack! You listened very well, that’s exactly how I feel but was unable to fully test the torque and power of the M25GTS because it isn’t installed on a true trail/mountain ebike. All of my riding was done on road but it did perform very well and just seemed like a refined version of the M07. If you’re doing trail riding the Peak would be a better choice due to nicer suspension and tires… but if you want to replace those and remove the rack, fenders and lights the ProTour could probably manage it. The Peak is really well done for 2016, it’s a bit improvement for me from 2015 and the boost button that’s available and interchangeable (just like batteries) brings it to the next level of versatility for me. I really learned to appreciate the M07 a lot more with this year’s reviews, it was as good if not better than Yamaha for climbing and was easier to use for me.

Steve Sevieria
1 year ago

Court, doesn’t the Peak go to 28 miles per hour with pedal-assist? My confusion is because your review and the Izip website both show 20 miles per hour maximum assist. But when I called Currie and also in the interview you did at Interbike 2015 with the Izip rep, it was stated to be 28 miles per hour with pedal assist. Also, the person I spoke to on the phone at Currie said they were working on updating the website to 28 miles per hour for the Peak AND the peak DS.

I figured you would push the hardtail Peak up to its top end while riding it for your review, so I’m concerned that the pedal-assisted top speed really is only 20 miles per hour. Do you have a definitive number? Thanks for everything you do for the electric bike community!

Court Rye
1 year ago

Hi Steve! Sorry for the delayed response here… I’ve been traveling. Wish I could be more clear on this but I thought it was limited to 20 mph to keep it Class 1 for 2016. This is a big change since 2015 when the bike did go ~28 mph in pedal assist. Based on the conversations I had and my experience riding the bikes during this recent visit to their headquarters I’d bet on 20 mph… but then again, sometimes these companies change things half way through the year. I’d love to hear about your hands on experience if you move forward with this ebike but unfortunately you do risk the time and effort of a return if they are misquoting. These companies often have a lot going on and it’s easy for the support guys/girls or web guys/girls to get stuff wrong. This is why I go and test and I’m fairly confident it’s just 20 mph specifically so it can be a Class 1 and allowed on more trails in California and beyond. Some of the other models that are on-road can and do go to ~28 mph including the E3 Dash and ProTour.

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GuruUno
4 days ago

$999!!!!!

only 350 miles

Great deal and opportunity to get a great deal for a fantastic price.

Cash sale only, local pickup Metuchen, NJ 08840

Interested parties reply to this posting via methods here within, as me posting my e-mail and/or phone number only encourages spammers.

Also posted on Craigslist (CNJ)
https://cnj.craigslist.org/bik/6188270957.html
Back problems, getting a different style bike.

Although I love this, I'm too old for a mountain bike.

Hardtail trail-ready electric bike with powerful center-drive motor for effective climbing and balanced weight, ~28 mph top speed
Removable battery pack for convenient charging and reduced transport weight, lockout suspension fork by RockShox for improved efficiency on flat terrain, upgraded 180 mm hydraulic disc brakes with motor cutoff, quick release wheels for easy maintenance

MAKE: IZIP
MODEL: E3 Peak
MSRP PRICE: $3,100 USD
BODY POSITION: Forward
SUGGESTED USE: Urban, Trail
ELECTRIC BIKE CLASS: Speed Pedalec (Class 3)
MODEL YEAR: 2015

Bicycle Details
TOTAL WEIGHT: 49 lbs (22.22 kg)
FRAME MATERIAL: 6061 Aluminum Alloy
FRAME SIZES: 19 in (48.26 cm)
GEOMETRY MEASUREMENTS: (Wheelbase 1125 mm and 1150 mm, Stand Over Height 753 mm and 791 mm)
FRAME TYPES: High-Step
FRAME COLORS: Black with Orange Accents
FRAME FORK DETAILS: RockShox XC30 TK 27.5" Suspension with 100 mm Travel
ATTACHMENT POINTS: Rear Rack Bosses, Fender Bosses
GEARING DETAILS: 10 Speed 1x10 SRAM X7, 11-36T
SHIFTER DETAILS: SRAM X7 Triggers on Right Bar
CRANKS: Lasco, 38T Sprocket
PEDALS: Wellgo Aluminum Alloy Platform
HEADSET: VP Semi-Integrated Ahead
STEM: Zoom 3D Forged Aluminum Alloy
HANDLEBAR: Tranz-X ATB, Low Rise
BRAKE DETAILS: Tektro Auriga E-Sub Hydraulic Disc with 180 mm Rotors, Tektro Levers with Motor Inhibitor
GRIPS: Velo Locking, Flat Rubber
SADDLE: Velo Racing
SEAT POST: TranzX Alloy with Micro Adjust
SEAT POST LENGTH: 350 mm
SEAT POST DIAMETER: 31.6 mm
RIMS: Alex Volar 2.1 Doublewall
SPOKES: Stainless Steel
TIRE BRAND: CST Patrol 650b, 27.5" x 2.25"
WHEEL SIZES: 27.5 in (69.85cm)
TUBE DETAILS: Schrader Valve
ACCESSORIES: Aluminum Alloy Bash Guard and Chain Guide
OTHER: Quick Release on Front and Rear Wheels, Locking Removable Battery Pack, KMC X10eRB High Torque Rust Proof Chain

Electronic Details
MOTOR BRAND: TranzX
MOTOR TYPE: Mid-Mounted Geared Motor
MOTOR NOMINAL OUTPUT: 350 watts
BATTERY VOLTAGE: 48 volts
BATTERY AMP HOURS: 8.7 ah
BATTERY WATT HOURS: 417.6 wh
BATTERY CHEMISTRY: Lithium-ion
CHARGE TIME: 5 hours
ESTIMATED MIN RANGE: 25 miles (40 km)
ESTIMATED MAX RANGE: 35 miles (56 km)
DISPLAY TYPE: Backlit Monochrome LCD, Fixed with Adjustable Angle
READOUTS: Speed, Odometer, Battery Capacity, Assist Level (1-4), Range Estimation
DISPLAY ACCESSORIES: Independent Button Pad on Left Bar
DRIVE MODE: Advanced Pedal Assist, Twist Throttle (Measures Speed, Cadence and Torque)
TOP SPEED: 28 mph (45 kph) (6 mph Throttle Only, 20 mph Throttle with Pedaling)

1/1
Mark Peralta
4 days ago

The ST2 was AMAZING!! It is exactly the feeling I was looking for. I couldn't believe how fine tune-able it was. It was super easy to "fly" on that thing but it's 7K!!! What is it about the ST2 that achieves such a nice feel and why aren't there any other bikes with the same ride feel! The bike was definitely heavy and I felt the weight but it can just take off! The shop also told me about the ST1X but they didn't have one to test ride it.

For sure. The shop is offering me a brand new Quick.E for 2.5K. The stromer ST2 is 7K. They didn't have a program where I could rent the ST2. It really is a hard decision to make with only a 30 minute test ride. I never thought I would one day contemplate spending 7K on a bike but here we are!

You can only get that "continuous acceleration feeling" on hub driven ebikes since there is no power interruption when shifting. If 7k is too much for you, then you may certainly try the St1. Other hub driven options that you may be interested in are the following:

OHM Urban or Sport
BULLS Outlaw E45
Easy motion Nitros
Magnum Peak
Smartmotions
Juiced Bikes CrossCurrent
leftover Specialized turbos
leftover 2015 Izip E3 Dash

Good luck!

Al P
1 week ago

My 250w motor will reach 500w at peak, but even when shifting down, I still have to apply considerable force to get up steep hills. Add to that high speed pedaling while going nowhere. This defeats the whole purpose for buying an ebike. My 500w bike has 750w peak power and climbs steep Adirondack hills with no problem. Even my wife's 350w motor climbs with ease. If it didn't, she would be clamoring for a new bike. I would never buy another bike with a 250w motor unless I lived in a place like southern Florida, where there are no steep hills.

JRA
2 weeks ago

I ride a bike that will maintain 28+ on level ground and am 195.

While it is possible to get to 28 just by putting a Vado, or the equivalent EU-US spec class III bike, in turbo getting it in the highest gear ratio and pedaling to activate the PAS I don't see how one could maintain that speed for very long given that their peak power output is at the most 700 or so watts. And at that you are going to be burning wh's much like as represented above. Few that I have seen have a final drive ratio high enough also that won't have both the motor and your legs rpm's maxed out. My setup does however allowing for a comfortable cadence at speed while adding as much wattage of my own as desired.

In comparison there is a big difference between going 20 mph and 28 in regards to pushing though the air and how much power that takes. This is from a more typical ride

Both were done with active but no sweat pedaling in similar terrain although the longer ride had one decent climb, another wh drain. Almost twice the distance and half the wh/mi at the slower average pace is a substantial gain and why most of my riding is done averaging in the high teens to lower 20mph.

Although motorcycles get decent gas mileage I have always thought they should do better given their power to weight ratio, but now I think it is because of the poor aero dynamics of the human form at speeds over 25mph.

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Jax
2 weeks ago

I recently bought the 2016 Dash on sale for $1499 and wish I had sprung for a higher quality motor like on the Bulls bikes. The TranzX motor on the Dash uses a cadence sensor, which is way less fun to ride than a good torque sensing motor. Court just posted on the 2017 IZIP Peak, which uses a Bosch mid-drive. He said it compares well to the budget Bulls option.

Jax
2 weeks ago

After a week or two riding the Dash, I've come to appreciate some of its strengths. The mid-drive motor is much more efficient and more powerful up hills than my other bike with the hub motor, despite similar nominal wattage. The integrated lights and rack are nice too. Its plenty zippy. And I've gotten used to the shifting, as you guys suggested. It's counterintuitive to stop pedaling for a full second before shifting, but it's not that bad.

Unfortunately, my wife doesn't like the feel of the cadence sensor and she feels the motor makes her go faster than she wants to go, even on low assist. I'll probably keep it around for a while in case she gets used to it and as a backup bike for my commute for days when I want an easier ride. It's actually not a bad bike, I just prefer a torque sensor.

Now the 2017 Peak+ and the similar Bulls model that both have the Bosch mid-drive look awesome, even if they top out at 20 mph.

Sonoboy
3 weeks ago

Look for the words 'nominal' and 'peak' when reading motor specs. This may explain the different numbers you described. I usually play it safe and use the nominal figures when comparing equipment; the problem is, without an e-bike standard, many manufacturers cite the figure that makes their product look good, regardless of how it may perform in the real world. The automotive industry solved this issue decades ago by developing a standard dynamometer test to determine horsepower ratings. The e-bike world needs to follow suit.

JeffDG
3 weeks ago

Hello!
WOW! I knew e-bikes were emerging, but until my research research I had no idea the number of brands and offerings! Cost is still a factor, so I'm looking to merge the capabilities of a mountain bike with a commuter. Right now, I have a Trek 29er but because of the hills around here and asthma I don't go out much. That and I'm not overly sold on the 29er concept...

So...here is a rundown of my "must haves" and my "like to haves" followed by a couple options that seem to fit the bill.

Price: $2k (give or take)
Wheel size: strongly prefer 27.5"
Tires: not particularly relevant as I'd probably have to change to something amenable to both activities.
Drive: prefer a mid-drive
Suspension: Must have 100mm front suspension... full suspension would be wicked!!... could do front rack in that case (e.g., Thule pack n pedal)?????
Method of drive: prefer torque sensing with throttle
Accessories: needs to have the ability for a rack, fenders, and lights; prefer if they come pre-installed with lights integrated into the electric system
Class: Must be class III (20mph throttle / 28mph assist)

So far I found two that fit these criteria and two more that, well, might just be shooting for the stars:
1. Magnum Peak: a geared hub-driven mountain bike with bolt ons for racks etc.
2. M2S XC Sport - there is a dearth of info on this brand - but this site has done a review of the impressive drive system. The range seems low... are they just a conservative bunch?

is there an option for a 500W motor upgrade
is there an option for battery upgrades
Possible to add a throttle?
is there a gear-shift sensor?
Are the head/tail lights integrated into the electric system?

3. M2S Dual Sport - this is a full-suspension mountain bike...not sure it would work, but it would be incredibly cool if it could!
4. M2S All Go - this looks so cool! And so light! 37 lbs! What!?!?! Looks like there's an option for front suspension based on their photos, but it's not listed on the drop down menus.

It seems that Magnum has been around for at least 7 years...which is a good sign. The M2S fits more criteria but they seem to be an incredibly new company, which has its risks...on the other hand... the parts seem to be all available elsewhere (Bafang Max drive system... shimano shifters, etc.)... M2S' website, while looks great and is nicely navigable, does leave some questions.

I'm open to other options and/or input on the ones above...

THANKS!!

EDIT: Add to the short list the Biktrix Monte 1000... that also seems to fit the criteria. Has a BBS02 motor, hard tail, etc etc.

Dewey
4 weeks ago

Hi Nazar,

Luna Cycle have an Aussie location in Perth selling their kits and offering free shipping on parts (not batteries or bikes) from California when you pay $1,000 through their Australian website (easily done with motor and battery). You might consider converting something like a Fuji Beartooth 1.3 with 3 inch wide tires, front suspension fork, and Tektro hydraulic disc brakes, the bike is $1400 AUD and a BBSHD motor with battery is $1750 AUD with tax, so just a bit over your $3k budget. The 30A controller and 52V battery combo means peak power of around 1500W, half again more powerful and 30lb lighter than the bike in the link you posted.

mrgold35
4 weeks ago

I have two Radrovers with the newer controller programming. The old controller would put my max PAS at level 2 for most inclines to keep the watts under 500. The newer controller allows me to use PAS 3 with no problems with any incline and up toPAS 4 with peak watts at 540-550. I like the newer programming because I can increase my mph and less time fighting the hill. I also factor in my weight (260 lbs+gear), bike weight (+75 lbs), elevation (4900-5400 ft on work commute), and headwind (10-15 mph with 20-25 mph gusts). I do apply the throttle on short really steep inclines up to the 750 watts; but, that is only for a 15-30 seconds on average. I really don't use PAS 5 that often with the new programming.

I figure the Hub motor doesn't feel much difference between an incline, headwind, or extra weight. I just try and keep the sustained watts at 550 or less in all riding conditions. I try to keep peak sustained watts 600-750 for short runs for a few minutes max.

Mark Peralta
1 month ago

Here is some data from a ride today. Distance was 9.95 miles each way. All data was collected using a Garmin Edge 1000 and Garmin Connect. At the end of each leg, data was uploaded to Strava. There was a positive elevation change of 200-250 feet on each leg.

On the outbound leg I rode with my daughter's unassisted bike using ECO50% on my Specialized base Turbo (200W nominal motor). I averaged 16.1 mph using 11% of my 691 Wh battery. This suggests a total range of around 90 miles, a consumption of 7.7 Wh/mile, and battery consumption of 124 watts/ hour. Strava estimated I was averaging 137 W power output (me and the bike). Average heart rate was 91 bpm with a max of 116 bpm. Average cadence was 74 rpm. At this speed and heart rate, I felt like I could ride all day.

On the return leg, I rode by myself in full TURBO mode as fast as I practically could. I averaged 21.1 mph using 23% of the battery. This suggests a total range of around 43 miles and a consumption of 16 Wh/mile and a motor consumption of 338 watts/hour. Strava estimated I was averaging 271 W average power output. Average heart rate was 118 bpm with a max of 132 bpm. Average cadence was 84 rpm. Note that due to an MI in 2000, I take beta blockers, so the average and peak heart rates in this regime are flirting with my aerobic/anerobic threshold. I doubt I could ride at this level for the entire 40+ mile range. I would need to back off and cruise to bring heart rates down every 5-10 miles or so.

Conclusions:

The 200W Specialized Turbo is a pedal assist, but clearly I am working and contributing a lot of my own "watts".
The system is very efficient to be able to run at well under 7.7 Wh/mi at ECO50%.
With the large Turbo S battery, this bike has a LOT of range.
Unlike the Stromer ST-2 or Specialized Turbo S, even though the bike is a speed pedelec, it is not an "average 25+ mph" type of bike. I would consider the base Turbo an "average 18-20 mph" type of bike at ECO70% to full TURBO settings.
Motor output (nominal 200W) and motor power consumption are two different things. At full TURBO, my bike was consuming 338 Watts per hour, while it would not have averaged much over 200 W of actual power output.
Increasing speed from 16.1 mph to 21.1 mph increased the electrical demand per mile by a factor of 2.08 (Wh/mile) and increased battery usage per unit time by a factor 2.72 (Watts per hour).

Those are nice figures but those information are extrapolated via the bike's computer algorithm.

How about real world range from fully charged to full discharge or 1 flashing bar? How many miles does your bike goes with combined usage (both high and low PAS)?

Douglas Ruby
1 month ago

Here is some data from a ride today. Distance was 9.95 miles each way. All data was collected using a Garmin Edge 1000 and Garmin Connect. At the end of each leg, data was uploaded to Strava. There was a positive elevation change of 200-250 feet on each leg.

On the outbound leg I rode with my daughter's unassisted bike using ECO50% on my Specialized base Turbo (200W nominal motor). I averaged 16.1 mph using 11% of my 691 Wh battery. This suggests a total range of around 90 miles, a consumption of 7.7 Wh/mile, and battery consumption of 124 watts/ hour. Strava estimated I was averaging 137 W power output (me and the bike). Average heart rate was 91 bpm with a max of 116 bpm. Average cadence was 74 rpm. At this speed and heart rate, I felt like I could ride all day.

On the return leg, I rode by myself in full TURBO mode as fast as I practically could. I averaged 21.1 mph using 23% of the battery. This suggests a total range of around 43 miles and a consumption of 16 Wh/mile and a motor consumption of 338 watts/hour. Strava estimated I was averaging 271 W average power output. Average heart rate was 118 bpm with a max of 132 bpm. Average cadence was 84 rpm. Note that due to an MI in 2000, I take beta blockers, so the average and peak heart rates in this regime are flirting with my aerobic/anerobic threshold. I doubt I could ride at this level for the entire 40+ mile range. I would need to back off and cruise to bring heart rates down every 5-10 miles or so.

Conclusions:

The 200W Specialized Turbo is a pedal assist, but clearly I am working and contributing a lot of my own "watts".
The system is very efficient to be able to run at well under 7.7 Wh/mi at ECO50%.
With the large Turbo S battery, this bike has a LOT of range.
Unlike the Stromer ST-2 or Specialized Turbo S, even though the bike is a speed pedelec, it is not an "average 25+ mph" type of bike. I would consider the base Turbo an "average 18-20 mph" type of bike at ECO70% to full TURBO settings.
Motor output (nominal 200W) and motor power consumption are two different things. At full TURBO, my bike was consuming 338 Watts per hour, while it would not have averaged much over 200 W of actual power output.
Increasing speed from 16.1 mph to 21.1 mph increased the electrical demand per mile by a factor of 2.08 (Wh/mile) and increased battery usage per unit time by a factor 2.72 (Watts per hour).

Mike H.
1 month ago

very close to getting a Peak - I wish it came in a larger 20 or 21 inch frame tho.

Ann M.
1 month ago

@GuruUno are you trying to figure out wiring for this battery? If so, you need it to go to the controller first, not directly to the motor. The Izip E3Peak was first produced in 2014 and Currie Tech/Raleigh has some technical information on its old site that may help. I've included a link to page with images of a TransX motor replacement which has a couple of pics with wiring visible that may help.

Also, consider contacting RPE (Rechargeable Power Energy) in Nevada, they specialize in rebuilding ebike batteries along with other lithium power packs. You ship them the battery, they do diagnostics and come back with recommendations and pricing.

GuruUno
1 month ago

Which one of these connectors is in the motor off of the mount for the downtube on the iZip E3 Peak?
I attempted to remove the mount but the wires go deep inside and without removing the side cover access plate on the motor, I will not know.
I only want to remove 1 time, hence asking here 1st.
The battery I need is from AliExpress, anywhere for $250 to $450, 48 to 52v, up to 16Ah....so I may pull the trigger on this.
Any experiences for a similar attempt?

DubNation
1 month ago

Hi,
I'm new to e-bikes and would like to purchase one soon. I'd like one that has a 28mph top speed, can be used on moderately difficult trails, and is under 3k. I live in the Bay Area and only ride on the weekends for fun. Usually I ride on flat and smooth dirt trails, but if I get an e-bike, I'd also like to ride some easy trails in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Of the bikes I've researched on-line, the Juiced CrossCurrent, Trek XM700, Trek Powerfly 5, and Magnum Peak look really cool to me. Let me know if these bikes would work for me, or if you have any other recommendations.
Thanks
Chris

GuruUno
1 month ago

"proprietary battery with different voltage output at different pins"
I noticed this while trying to get a readout, and saw the different voltages, which is another thing that has been bugging me.
There is a thread about using a 48v horn on an e-bike.....I can't get any activation of the horn when connecting to the 48v pins.
Last year I posted on this with no replies:

I've read that some have used a 48v electric horn on their 48v e-bikes.
I bought 2 of them, as I was of the belief the 1st one was no good.
The second one I got also did not work.
I take the battery off of my iZip E3 Peak, I take a voltmeter/tester to verify the voltage from the proper pins are correct (one set reads 48v, another reads 36v), and I test the horn by placing one wire on each terminal that shows voltage (the 48v set), and I get zero response from the horn.
Am I missing something?
I make reference to this link that discusses the use and installation, I sent the author an e-mail months ago, zero reply.
(link: http://www.ebikeschool.com/review-a-super-loud-ebike-horn-for-only-3/ )
Anybody have any ideas how/why?
I really, really want this horn.

GuruUno
1 month ago

"not until most recently"
As far as I know, they have been always available, where else recently?
Called Currie (Raleigh now) today, said $589.88 + tax + $50 shipping.
OUCH!
BUT, several bike shops have last years model of E3 Peak for $1250, so do I open almost $700 for a new battery or replace the bike?
Also, at what cost/who can rebuild existing battery for a spare?
One would think that the cost would have come down in all these years....

Mikey
1 month ago

Aloha! I find it hard to believe a 250w/37v/15a brose system can climb as well as a 750w/48v/25a Bafang set-up. The numbers just don't support the contention.

Also, that squealing sound you hear when your brose motor is at peak RPMs is most likely the belt slipping despite being notched to align with the cog. That the brose system feels under powered as compared to the other mid drive motors is objective fact, born out by numerous rider accounts, and eMTB mag time trials. The cause is most likely due to a conservative motor regime to protect that belt I am guessing. That puts the question well beyond subjective experience, IMO.

My BBS02 has a 42 tooth lekkie front sprocket vs the FS3 28 tooth. The FS3 also has 40 tooth rear sprocket vs my BBS02 34 tooth rear sprocket. That's why I credited the Evo's drive train giving it the mechanical advantages to climb just as well as my BBS02. If my BBS02 had a similar drive train, it would pop a wheelie constantly on any steep climb.

From the pictures I've seen, the belt on the Brose motor is a synchronous belt with toothed sprocket. If the belt was jumping teeth, there'd be a distinct vibration and sound and definite power loss.

RoadWrinkle
1 month ago

I weight 215 and my Evo can climb just as good as my BBS02 mountain
Aloha. I find it hard to understand how a 250w/37v/15a brose system can climb as well as a 750w/48v/25a Bafang set-up. The numbers just don't support the contention.

That the brose system feels under powered as compared to the other mid drive motors is objective fact, born out by numerous rider accounts, and eMTB mag time trials. The cause is most likely due to a conservative motor regime (relaxed sensor settings in the firmware) to protect that belt I am guessing. That puts the question well beyond subjective experience, IMO.

Also, that squealing sound you hear when your brose motor is stressed and at peak RPMs could be the belt slipping despite being notched to align with the cog; better than a torn belt.

GuruUno
1 month ago

Looking as to where the freshest and least cost battery exists. Also here in NJ as to where to get one. And who can rebuild the original one for a spare. Expected costs. Optional increase in configuration like ah etc. is this something to consider or just stay with OEM?
Finally might consider just getting a new 2017 with Bosch motor style newer version of iZip or similar if a shop accepts trade in and offers a decent price.
Sooner than later replies would be greatly appreciated. Existing battery is fine it's just that I'm approaching 2 years 4000 miles and although I've replaced the tires casette and chain I'm wanting to be pro active rather than reactive.

RoadWrinkle
1 month ago

I can get to 40-42 kmph without wind when I work with the bike
I always pedal with a fair amount of effort on all ebikes I ride (even the throttled cruiser). I think the issue here is that my subjective experience with my 250w motor is not the same as your subjective experience with your 250w motor. I am guessing your not 250 lbs or more(?). No question the power performance would be different for a smaller rider with less motor load. The European manufacturers "massage" the 250w maximum laws by having larger amperage controllers that push peak wattage up to 100% of nominal, and the motors can take it. Why not offer a 500w/48v/25a configuration that peaks at 1200w if your going to offer a 250w/36v/20a system peaking at 720w?

PRW
1 month ago

I am looking at selling my Hanebrink X2 - the 48v version. I am not riding it as much as I thought I would - just too many bikes! Please, no silly offers - I would rather keep it for the future than sell it for a silly price. $3,000 plus shipping cost from Sunnyvale, CA

Details are here:

https://www.electricbike.com/hanebrink/

http://www.electricbikeaction.com/and-n ... different/

Highlight features:

FASTACE Dual Crown Triple Clamp 740mm 8" travel
Magura MT2 Hydraulic Brakes 160mm rotors
Full Speed Ahead Crank & FSA Pig Headset
Hussefelt Truvativ bar, stem and seatpost
Bontrager seat clamp & fasteners throughout
Anderson Connectors throughout
Shimano SORA components w dual left hand shifter (custom! Leaves all electric controls on right side, very slick)
20" x 8" Tubeless ATV tires on 1lb custom USA built rims
Custom low standover (for offroad) aircraft aluminum frame
Optional 48v system upgrade
Optional Megarange 14-32T 7th speed
Optional BOXGUIDE DH Chain Guide/Tensioner
Optional Cycle Analyst fully programmed
ODI grips

Pretty much will climb ANYTHING and does a steady 25mph on throttle only. 35+ with pedal assist. Of course it's mid drive with 2 front sprockets (after the front drive! Hanebrink exclusive) so you can pretty much dial in any gear and keep the motor spinning at peak torque. It's amazingly reliable and cool running.

Website Description: http://danhanebrinkbikes.com/models/hanebrink-x2/
A 750-watt/1200-watt peak brush-less electric motor drives a fourteen (14) speed gear configuration that drives this bike. Steep grades are easily handled by the motor’s unparalleled torque.

The 51″ wheelbase and 20 inch diameter x 8 inch wide tubeless monocoque wheels and tires, widest in the industry, provide stability in tight turns and traction on dirt, sand or snow.

Shock absorption is easily handled by the dual crown triple clamp fork. Eight inches of travel provides shock absorption in uncomfortable terrain and is able to manage the most unforgiving of mountain terrains.

Our made and designed in the USA frames are manufactured from aircraft aluminum which is both lightweight and durable. Carbon fiber handlebars and seat-post connect the rider to this extreme machine.

Hydraulic disc brakes, front and rear, provide stopping power to aggressively attack corners or steep descents.

Base Price: $7,650 USD (Reflects average range)
Color: Matte Black Standard, Custom Colors Available
Weight: 85lbs (38 kg)
Battery Pack: 48 Volt LiNMC
Range*: 40 miles
Motor: 750/1200 Watt Sealed Brushless
Gearing: Motor Integrated 14 speed with low-range gearing available
Tires: Tubeless 20″ x 8″ (50cm x 20cm)
Wheels: Monocoque, Aluminum Axles, Sealed Bearings
Wheelbase: 129 cm – 51 inches
Frame: 6061- T6 Aircraft Seamless Aluminum Tubing
Fork: Dual Crown Triple Clamp 8″ Adjustable Travel
Brakes: Hydraulic Disc Brakes
Derailleur: Shimano
Heavy Duty Rear Rack: 8″ x 21″ Aluminum

Additional notes: additional options
low range gearing,
higher capacity controller
cycle analyst.

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RoadWrinkle
1 month ago

Most likely your 1000w/48v system came with a 25 amp controller, so your peak output would not exceed 1200w. Could be that you find after converting that heavy trike that it cannot go much faster than 20 mph to begin with. Also, this may sound counter intuitive, but a handicapped person would benefit from more, not less, available power at whatever speeds the rider is comfortable with.

Casey Neistat
1 year ago

The road racing bike with drop bars you tested was it limited to 28 miles an hour or could it go faster unlimited on a straight flat road ?

joes joey
1 year ago

what do you think about the SPECIALIZED – LEVO HT COMP 6FATTIE compared to a ohm fat bike or other high class electric bikes? can it pass the 20mph limit ? of course not in the streets but off road on private land can it pass 20mph like the ohm fat bike?thanks and great videos really appreciate your passion for electric cycling !!

Clinton Baltazor
1 year ago

How do these bikes perform in the rain, cold weather, or a really windy day! Whats the durability factor? Your weather is not like the rest the country! Just my opinion, otherwise indepth and quality review! I really like the Izip line of ebikes!

Casey Neistat
1 year ago

Great review again.

FRANK ROBY
1 year ago

good value.

JV
1 year ago

+FRANK ROBY Lol not really.