IZIP E3 Peak Review

2016 Izip E3 Peak Electric Bike Review
2016 Izip E3 Peak
2016 Izip E3 Peak 72 Nm Output Mid Drive Motor
2016 Izip E3 Peak 48 Volt Battery Pack Removable
2016 Izip E3 Peak Tranzx Lcd Display Panel
2016 Izip E3 Peak Currie Electro Drive Button Pad
2016 Izip E3 Peak 180 Mm Disc Brake Rotors
2016 Izip E3 Peak 10 Speed Shimano Deore Xt
2016 Izip E3 Peak Suntour Raidon Xc Lo Air Suspension 100 Mm Travel
2016 Izip E3 Peak 2 Amp Battery Charger
2016 Izip E3 Peak Electric Bike Review
2016 Izip E3 Peak
2016 Izip E3 Peak 72 Nm Output Mid Drive Motor
2016 Izip E3 Peak 48 Volt Battery Pack Removable
2016 Izip E3 Peak Tranzx Lcd Display Panel
2016 Izip E3 Peak Currie Electro Drive Button Pad
2016 Izip E3 Peak 180 Mm Disc Brake Rotors
2016 Izip E3 Peak 10 Speed Shimano Deore Xt
2016 Izip E3 Peak Suntour Raidon Xc Lo Air Suspension 100 Mm Travel
2016 Izip E3 Peak 2 Amp Battery Charger

Summary

  • A 650B hardtail trail or mountain ebike with a powerful 73 Nm mid-drive motor, it's one of the quieter motors but less responsive (mostly cadence sensing) and no shift sensing
  • Nice 180 mm hydraulic disc brakes, quick release for both wheels and a 15 mm front and 12 mm rear axle for improved stiffness, 100 mm air fork with rebound and lockout
  • Could make an excellent weekend warrior bike where you ride it on pavement to work during the week then go off-road for fun occasionally because it has bosses for a rear rack and fenders
  • Class 1 limited top speed of 20 mph and no throttle (the most widely accepted class for trail riding), optional boost button to add 20 mph button throttle mode

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Video Review

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Introduction

Make:

IZIP

Model:

E3 Peak

Price:

$2,799

Body Position:

Forward

Suggested Use:

Urban, Trail, Mountain

Electric Bike Class:

Pedal Assist (Class 1), Throttle on Demand (Class 2)
Learn more about Ebike classes

Warranty:

2 Year Comprehensive, Lifetime Frame

Availability:

United States

Model Year:

2016

Bicycle Details

Total Weight:

49 lbs (22.22 kg)

Battery Weight:

6.1 lbs (2.76 kg)

Motor Weight:

9.5 lbs (4.3 kg)

Frame Material:

6061 Aluminum Alloy

Frame Sizes:

17 in (43.18 cm)19 in (48.26 cm)

Geometry Measurements:

32" Stand Over Height and 74" Length on the Large 19" Frame

Frame Types:

High-Step

Frame Colors:

Gloss Black with Blue and White Accents

Frame Fork Details:

SR Suntour Raidon-XC-LO-R Suspension with 100 mm Travel, Rebound Adjust and Lockout, 15 mm Thru-Axle with Quick Release

Frame Rear Details:

Alloy 142 / 12 mm with Quick Release

Attachment Points:

Rear Rack Bosses, Fender Bosses

Gearing Details:

10 Speed 1x10 Shimano Deore XT, 11-32T

Shifter Details:

Shimano Deore XT Triggers on Right

Cranks:

Lasco EB05, Alloy Guide, 42T

Pedals:

Wellgo Aluminum Alloy Platform, Black

Headset:

Tapered Head Tube, VP Semi-Integrated Ahead

Stem:

Tranz-X 3D forged Alloy 31.8 mm Diameter

Handlebar:

Tranz-X DB Alloy 31.8 mm Diameter, 700 mm x 30 mm, Low Rise

Brake Details:

Shimano M396 Hydraulic Disc with 180 mm Rotors

Grips:

Velo Flat Rubber, Locking

Saddle:

Velo Racing

Seat Post:

Tranz-X Alloy with Quick Release Collar

Seat Post Length:

320 mm

Seat Post Diameter:

31.6 mm

Rims:

Alex Volar 2.3 Doublewall, Aluminum Alloy, Tubless Ready, Brass Nipples

Spokes:

Stainless Steel 13 Gauge, Black

Tire Brand:

Kenda Kapture K1148 Dual-Use, 27.5" x 1.95"

Wheel Sizes:

27.5 in (69.85cm)

Tire Details:

30 TPI, 30 to 80 PSI

Tube Details:

Presta Valve

Accessories:

Aluminum Alloy Chain Guide

Other:

Locking Removable Battery Pack, 2 Amp 1.8 Pound Charger

Electronic Details

Motor Brand:

Currie Electro-Drive® (TranzX), Model M07

Motor Type:

Mid-Mounted Geared Motor
Learn more about Ebike motors

Motor Nominal Output:

350 watts

Motor Peak Output:

400 watts

Motor Torque:

73 Newton meters

Battery Brand:

Samsung or LG

Battery Voltage:

48 volts

Battery Amp Hours:

8.7 ah

Battery Watt Hours:

417.6 wh

Battery Chemistry:

Lithium-ion

Charge Time:

5 hours

Estimated Min Range:

15 miles (24 km)

Estimated Max Range:

35 miles (56 km)

Display Type:

Fixed Monochrome Backlit LCD with Adjustable Angle

Readouts:

Speed, Odometer, Battery Capacity (5 Bars), Assist Level (0-4), Range Estimation

Display Accessories:

Independent Button Pad on Left

Drive Mode:

Cadence Sensing Pedal Assist (Optional Button Throttle)

Top Speed:

20 mph (32 kph)

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Written Review

The 2016 IZIP E3 Peak is one of the most powerful mid-drive electric bikes I’ve tested for trail and mountain style riding. The M07 motor by TranzX delivers 73 Newton meters of torque and is surprisingly quiet. With a 27.5″ wheelset the bike feels nimble but also stable and comfortable going over bumps. The air suspension fork is light weight and offers both rebound adjustment and lockout, the latter of which is great for riding efficiently on paved surfaces. This e-bike would work well as an urban commuter (with the occasional curb jumping) or a true trail/mountain platform because the tires are less knobby (but still wide and grippy) and the frame offers mounting points for fenders and a rear rack. It’s a Class 1 pedal assist only bike that is limited to 20 mph making it better suited for trail use and if you’re mostly commuting the slightly less expensive and faster IZIP E3 Dash is probably a better fit. It also has suspension (though less robust) and comes stock with fenders, a rack and integrated LED lights installed.

Compared with the Tekoa iE from Raleigh, the E3 Peak offers sturdy 15 mm and 12 mm thru-axles, the fork has rebound adjust vs. preload, you get the rear rack and fender mount bosses and a kickstand mount. To me it’s a curious mix of robust features (the axles) and more urban-oriented extras but both electric bikes cost the same $2,799. The biggest difference is that the Tekoa iE is a 29er with larger diameter wheels and is offered in one extra size (Extra Large 21″) vs. the 17″ and 19″ only sizes for the E3 Peak. Additionally, the bikes use different headsets, the Peak has low-rise bars vs. flat and has a wider seat tube at 31.6″ which is good to know if you want even more comfort and plan on adding something like the Thudbuster ST.

Not a lot has changed in terms of operation since the 2015 model of the E3 Peak, I think they use the same high power motor and display panel which has automatic backlighting (that you can’t turn off). The display panel swivels to reduce glare but is more permanently fixed and the button pad on the left is still small, rubberized and easy to reach… but now instead of having a twist throttle compromising the right grip, you have the option to purchase a $50 boost button ring with 6 mph and 20 mph buttons that you hold to use throttle mode. This does change the bike class from 1 to 2 meaning it may not be permissible to use on all of the same trails but it’s great for city use and those who may have trouble starting from rest (carrying loads for example). I like the new black and blue color scheme vs. black and yellow in 2015 and prefer the Shimano Deore XT drivetrain which should hold up well despite the lack of shift sensing on the motor. The motor operates mostly based on cadence which makes it feel powerful but doesn’t start or stop as quickly and there are no brake lever motor inhibitors so a couple of times I felt myself trying to slow down with my brakes to shift gears while still pedaling gently (trying to change gears without mashing) only to find the motor activating and foiling my plans. Overall though, it’s a powerful and fun ebike with a solid two year comprehensive warranty and some great extras that make it well-rounded and useful in many situations vs. just off road like the Haibike HardSeven which does not have mounting points for a rack etc. but looks much cooler in my opinion.

Pros:

  • Sturdy 15 mm thru axle on the front wheel for stiffness off-road, also makes lining up the disc brake rotor easier to reduce zinging noises, the rear axle is also enlarged at 12 mm
  • Extremely powerful motor offering 73 Newton meters of torque, I climbed steep off-road terrain in the lowest level of assist without struggling
  • Because the top speed is limited to 20 mph and this is a pedal-assist only, it’s a Class 1 making it permissible on more trails but you can get the $50 boost button add-on if you want throttle mode and that will make it Class 2
  • Solid M395 hydraulic disc brakes from Shimano are easy to pull and provide great stopping power with 180 mm rotors front and rear, the levers don’t have motor inhibitors and since this motor is a bit delayed for stopping and mostly relies on torque sensing there are moments when I wish they did
  • Light weight air fork with rebound adjust and lockout means you can ride the bike more efficiently on flat paved surfaces if you’re commuting or navigate comfortably off-road with 100 mm travel
  • Both axles are upgraded to thicker 12 mm rear and 15 mm front for improved stiffness and better alignment of the disc brake rotors with the calipers and pads if you have to take them on/off to drive to a trail
  • Even though this model only comes in a high-step “diamond” frame design, it has been engineered with a sloping top tube to lower stand over height which makes holding the bike at rest or walking over it easier, I measured ~32 inches on the Large 19″ frame
  • Because the motor is mounted at the center of the frame along with the battery pack, weight is kept lower which improves stability, if you add a disc-brake compatible rear rack you’ll have plenty of room for gear to commute and it will be more solid than a beam rack
  • The center-drive system leverages your chain and 10 speed cassette to operate more efficiently for climbing or reaching higher speeds (though it’s limited to 20 mph to keep this Class 1), it offers better range than a similarly rated hub motor if you manage your gears properly but the high torque output is more limited than some comparable mid mid drives like Bosch
  • Higher-end parts all around including Shimano hydraulic disc brakes with a larger 180 mm rotors for improved stopping power, Shimano Deore XT derailleur for precision shifting and large stiff Wellgo alloy platform pedals for stability and grip
  • If you want even more ways to ride, a boost button can be added for $50 which offers two drive modes: a 6 mph starting speed (almost like walk mode, useful for helping you push the bike uphill) or full speed up to 20 mph acting as a traditional throttle, this will change the bike to to Class 2 rating
  • The motor is very capable at climbing and can easily hit the 20 mph top speed if you’re in the higher couple of gears, it’s also surprisingly quiet… but doesn’t offer the same high RPM as Bosch so your gear matters more

Cons:

  • The display panel and accompanying button pad can be a bit confusing at first, holding the power button icon for a few seconds when you’re in assist level 1 will take you down to zero (so you can use the display without the motor), it would be nicer if you could just arrow down to zero
  • The display unit is not removable so it could take more damage when the bike is parked outside or crammed into your trunk driving to a trailhead, thankfully the battery is
  • No bottle cage bosses on the seat tube here unfortunately but it’s pretty crammed there given the downtube-battery mount and most trail and mountain riders seem to use CamelBak packs for water these days
  • The battery pack must be activated before the display unit can be powered on, it’s a two step process that takes extra time and can create confusion when going straight for the display on/off
  • You get a lot of power with the high-torque motor but it’s not as responsive or dynamic (feels mostly like a cadence sensor in there) and the range is more limited than some of the other ebikes I’ve tested (estimate 15 to 30 miles per charge depending on the assist level you choose), there’s also no shift sensing so if you shift down while climbing at full power the chain, sprockets and derailleur will mash hard and could get damaged over time more easily

Resources:

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Jack Tyler
1 year ago

These 3 iZip reviews – the 2016 ProTour, Peak and Dash – have been interesting to view together. Court, it seems the iZip models are in the midst of a technology shift, motor wise. My impressions from your spoken reviews is that the M25GTS motor on the ProTour is a bit quieter, has a bit more torque sensing, and is virtually no less powerful (70 NM vs. 73 NM) than the M07 on this Peak and also the Dash. Are each of those fair conclusions? And given all 3 have 48V 8.7 Ah batteries, is it also reasonable to expect their range differences will be almost exclusively due to differences in weight, speed one attempts the Peak’s wider tire patches? (I’m *assuming* the two different motors will perform comparably re: range. Fair?) Gosh, I wish that ProTour integrated battery frame and smaller/lighter motor was offered on the Peak, as I have doubts the ProTour will be suitable for riding on a variety of hard packed trails. It also seems as tho’ the Peak is the only one of the three with a reasonable off-road fork. Ah choices, choices!

Court Rye
1 year ago

Hi Jack! You listened very well, that’s exactly how I feel but was unable to fully test the torque and power of the M25GTS because it isn’t installed on a true trail/mountain ebike. All of my riding was done on road but it did perform very well and just seemed like a refined version of the M07. If you’re doing trail riding the Peak would be a better choice due to nicer suspension and tires… but if you want to replace those and remove the rack, fenders and lights the ProTour could probably manage it. The Peak is really well done for 2016, it’s a bit improvement for me from 2015 and the boost button that’s available and interchangeable (just like batteries) brings it to the next level of versatility for me. I really learned to appreciate the M07 a lot more with this year’s reviews, it was as good if not better than Yamaha for climbing and was easier to use for me.

Steve Sevieria
11 months ago

Court, doesn’t the Peak go to 28 miles per hour with pedal-assist? My confusion is because your review and the Izip website both show 20 miles per hour maximum assist. But when I called Currie and also in the interview you did at Interbike 2015 with the Izip rep, it was stated to be 28 miles per hour with pedal assist. Also, the person I spoke to on the phone at Currie said they were working on updating the website to 28 miles per hour for the Peak AND the peak DS.

I figured you would push the hardtail Peak up to its top end while riding it for your review, so I’m concerned that the pedal-assisted top speed really is only 20 miles per hour. Do you have a definitive number? Thanks for everything you do for the electric bike community!

Court Rye
11 months ago

Hi Steve! Sorry for the delayed response here… I’ve been traveling. Wish I could be more clear on this but I thought it was limited to 20 mph to keep it Class 1 for 2016. This is a big change since 2015 when the bike did go ~28 mph in pedal assist. Based on the conversations I had and my experience riding the bikes during this recent visit to their headquarters I’d bet on 20 mph… but then again, sometimes these companies change things half way through the year. I’d love to hear about your hands on experience if you move forward with this ebike but unfortunately you do risk the time and effort of a return if they are misquoting. These companies often have a lot going on and it’s easy for the support guys/girls or web guys/girls to get stuff wrong. This is why I go and test and I’m fairly confident it’s just 20 mph specifically so it can be a Class 1 and allowed on more trails in California and beyond. Some of the other models that are on-road can and do go to ~28 mph including the E3 Dash and ProTour.

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RoadWrinkle
16 hours ago

Peak is interesting.

RoadWrinkle
3 days ago

Yes, a geared or brushless hub motor will basically turn into a space heater if you try to get up a hill that is too steep and the motor bogs down at the lower speeds, but a mid drive climbs much more efficiently, AND all of the newer Bosch, Brose and Yamaha systems have circuit protection to prevent over heating.

The main point I was making is that defeating a limiter does not change the engine performance, IOW it does not cause more current to pass through the motor or increase nominal or peak wattage output. Also, there is no way removing a speed limiter can allow you to go faster UPHILL when the issue does not even arise until you are going 20 mph and want assist up to 28 mph; these are not climbing speeds.

If you want to address modifications that can fry the motor talk to the guys that add throttles to PAS only systems, or those that swap out stock controllers to pump electricity into the motor the way a hot rod carb forces gasoline into a combustion engine.

Dewey
4 days ago

I would prefer pedal assist to throttle only. I see that you suggested a bike with quite a powerful motor- is that because that is what is necessary to get up the hills?

I understand, I adapted my bicycle with a mid-drive motor and I ride it using pedal assist no throttle. Among a convenience sample of other riders on a recent ride with my neighborhood family bike group 3 of 6 parents towing children had adapted their bicycles with the same type of ebike motor which is a Bafang BBS01/BBS02 rebranded and sold under several names such as 8fun, Dillenger, Lunacycle, Empowered, EM3EV, eRad, and my preferred supplier California Ebike (Doug the owner is super helpful). It isn't a turn key solution like a complete ebike, I needed help from my local bike shop to remove the bottom bracket and replace the chain/make sure the gearing worked because in the conversion process you lose your other front chain rings, turning my 21 speed bike into a 7 speed. I have the lower powered BBS01 with a 36v battery and I programmed the controller to 18a, but the more powerful BBS02 48V model with a 25A controller setting is powerful enough (1200 watts peak power) to get up most hills. Power is necessary to climb hills when you are hauling extra weight. One of the links I posted above is from two parents with the Juiced ODK, one of whom claimed to be able to achieve 7mph up a 23% hill at full throttle. With my much less powerful controller/battery settings (648 watts peak power) I would be standing on my pedals to achieve the same speed on that grade hill. Because I adapted my old 1990's heavy steel hybrid bike, the added weight of me, my daughter, the trailer, the motor, and battery, means my system is underpowered for the weight I'm trying to haul uphill, it works most of the time if I'm not carrying anything else but I get a real workout when we haul the weekly groceries.

Dewey
6 days ago

Do you know if there is a guide available to help figure out the size of the motor/ battery needed to tow a certain weight up a certain grade with an e-bike?

Justin at Grin Tech in Vancouver has this motor simulator based on the motors he sells. Play with the battery, wheel size, hill grade, and weight parameters and look for the intersection of the red line (power) and black line (load), then look to the right of the vertical axis and that will tell you how many watts of power are needed to achieve peak proficiency for a given hill grade. Peak power for any ebike system can be calculated by multiplying the battery voltage by the amps the controller can handle e.g. a 20A controller using a 48V battery has a peak output of 960 watts.

pxpaulx
6 days ago

A refurbished Juiced UDK500 is $1200 and offers nearly 900 watts peak power, low step, smaller comfortable 20" balloon tires, cruise control, long range, hydraulic disk brakes, lots of bolt on accessories including a rack seat and foot pegs to carry a passenger, a good accessory is the huge sturdy front basket, and a dealer network so you can take a test ride before you buy. Check out Court's review.

I was going to say not going to happen, but at that refurb price that will definitely be the best bet!

Dewey
6 days ago

Want to be able to get around with my five year old- towing him on a wheehoo or trail-a-bike. I am 5'6" and have a just over 30" inseam- Ideally I'll have a bike we can also use to cruise the local rail trail. I am wondering about step-thru models and their ability to deal with towing...

A refurbished Juiced ODK U500 is $1200 and offers nearly 900 watts peak power, low step, smaller 20" tires, cruise control, long range, hydraulic disk brakes, lots of bolt on accessories including a huge sturdy front basket, and a dealer network so you can take a test ride before you buy. Check out Court's review. Here's a review by a parent. Here are some first impressions from parents in hilly Seattle, they recommend adding a wide double kickstand like the Ursus Jumbo but check with Juiced if they will fit one or what they suggest would work. Two Wheeling Tots has a buying guide on trailer cycles, one consideration is to check the measurements of the trailer cycle arm to make sure it will clear the extra long rear rack of the Juiced ODK, you might want to ask Juiced what they suggest might work - you might need some sort of extension piece or a trailer cycle arm that bolts onto the rack rather than the seat post. Or skip the trailer cycle and get rack mounted bars, seat pad, and foot pegs/boards for a passenger. One issue is the ODK uses Kenda K-924 tires that are not standard bicycle tires but use a harder rubber compound which makes them stiff and difficult to get off the wheel rim in the event of a puncture, you could either swap them out for something more puncture resistant like the Schwalbe Big Ben Plus tires, or buy some Park Tool steel tire levers and have a plan B e.g. a cell phone with GPS and if you are a member of AAA and you can push the bike to a road they can arrange for a tow truck to take you and your bike home.

Thomas Jaszewski
1 week ago

I've never ridden a mid-drive bike. On my next trip I'll see if I can rent one so I can get a better idea of what it is all about.

One thought I've had is that a strong cyclist can put out about 250 watts. With a mid-drive bike you are running three or four times that much power through the sprocket, cassette, and (especially) the derailleur. I have to wonder if those parts are designed for the extra stress and if you won't be overhauling them (or have them fail spectacularly) more frequently.
I have the cheap seats. I bought 2 BBS01, 350W, 36V not long after they came out. They have been very good. Not pushed hard, always kept running at peak RPM and adequately lubricated. I have a BBS02 750W older version and it's OK. But needs work, again. I bought two BBSHD's sold one when I didn't like the fat bike experience. On the fence no about the second one. I have the tools parts and ability to keep it running, but gear drives will climb anything I need to climb and far more resilient. If I do as planned and go to a 2wd, that will climb anything a mis will and be less maintenance. Broken chain is still a ride home. I want a Bosch or Shimano, just waiting for someone to have replacement battery sticker shock and grab a used bike. I don't like things I have to take to the dealer. SO I may never do the Bosch until they have market saturation and I can buy parts.

Bike_On
1 week ago

In case anyone else is curious, I will answer my own question. The weather cooperated during the week and I had some free time, so I found a dealer with a Trek manual-shift Shimano Steps mid-drive demo. I did some riding up a 10% hill and discovered that compared to a 36v 350-watt geared hub, the 36v 250-watt mid-drive was the winner. With the hub, it helps you as long as you help it. That means on long grades steeper than 6% you work a lot to keep the bike’s road speed around 10-12mph to stay in the hub's power band and avoid potentially cooking the windings. The Steps had a 10-cog rear cluster with a 32t granny and on the test hill it never sagged or felt over-loaded, even if I dawdled along. Accelerating just required a little more pressure on the pedals, or down-shifting one or two clicks which increased crank rpm and really bump up boost energy. The system regulates power output at three levels: Eco, Normal, and High. On the test hill its Normal mode at a moderate cadence of about 60-70 crank rpm felt very close to the strength of a 350w hub. In the High power range it was simply no contest. In my opinion, the 250 mid exceeds the climbing ability of a 350 geared hub, and with much less effort. It was impressive. What intrigues me is how efficient a small motor can be with smart software and good gearing.

The beauty and benefit of a mid - drive system. Dial in the gear for peak efficiency and power.

The beauty of the hubs on flat and mild hills is the variation in pedal cadence allowed by the motor. The mid drives will dictate a certain rpm, with a narrow band of cadence. The hubs allow for a wider rpm cadence and feels more natural.

Dewey
1 week ago

Really struggling to find any mid drives in my price range.
The BBS02 500W 48V mid drive kit might fit the bill. The advantage is it will have 500W stamped on the motor to satisfy MD law, then when you move to TN you could buy a USB cable and reprogram the controller amp setting to increase the amps to 25A and turn it into a 750W nominal 1200W peak power version. I bought my similar BBS01 kit from California Ebike and battery from Luna Cycle. To meet your budget you would need to use a Chinese vendor but shipping is expensive and support uncertain if anything goes wrong which is why I chose to go with reputable US suppliers, paid more but received good after sales support. The Bafang isn't a turn key conversion, I needed help from my local bike shop to remove the bottom bracket which had seized up, and unless you buy a chain ring spider/adapter you lose your extra front chainrings which turned my 21 speed into a 7 speed bicycle so I needed a new chain, to be fair I don't miss so many gears because I stay mainly in 4th and change the PAS level to maintain a comfortable pedal cadence. Also because I bought kit and battery from different suppliers I needed to solder matching electrical connectors to battery and motor.

Dewey
1 week ago

do I want/need a 500w motor and what is the difference in performance between a 36 V and 48V battery?
Hi Dave,

I think Maryland regulates ebike power to 500W, but in Tennessee ebikes are not regulated according to Wikipedia. The federal CPSC regulated ebike definition is 750W and 20mph and this definition is used by insurers. Peak power is calculated by multiplying the battery voltage by the amp setting in the controller e.g. 36V x 18A = 648W, or 48V x 25A = 1200W, usually controller amps are listed on the tech specs. This blog post describes how to calculate the watt hours of a battery pack which helps estimate range. Climbing ability is sometimes described in terms of torque, in his reviews on this site Court Rye generally lists torque rating in Newton Meters. There are a few articles that talk about the pros and cons of different types of ebike motors e.g here, and here. Some off-road riders advocate for high-power electric motorcycles but the mountain bike community does not want ebikes to threaten bike access to trails. People for Bikes have a database of eMTB trails for off-roading.

Tora Harris
2 weeks ago

Not a great deal if the charger has a problem. ALWAYS look at warrantees. I have two $80 chargers that died a month out of their 90 day warranties, now what? Start by doing he numbers. Someone in this thread also mentioned the Satiator. A charger with a very good warrantee and one that can grow with your hobby. Peer reviewed research has sown that charging to 80% can more than double the battery life. So it I take my $500 battery and double the life, essentially I have $1000 in value. That $300 charger has me ahead on one battery by $200. 200 in my pocket. Next battery or backup battery or different voltage battery and I can use the same charger. I just saved myself another $50 to $100 bucks. Maybe it's the mindset that everything should be low end and value priced to be worth buying, frankly that confuses me. Batteries are the most expensive drain on the eBikers wallet. Anything I can find to extend life leaves dollars in my pocket. No brainer for me. It IS hard to swallow. I mean on face $300 is steep. But being able to charge ALL my batteries from 12-60V. Change at a full range of rates, fast if a need hit, slow for best pack health. Charge at user determined percentage. 50% for storage 80% for longevity. 100% for a longer ride. A history of the battery charge cycles, and more. I used o have 4 chargers. Even if they were ;ow end I'd still have near $175 in and no warranty over a couple of months. I sold them and the same guys selling the $80 chargers sold hundreds of Satiators. But the margin on Satiators is nowhere near that of the China chargers and the warrantees, are, well, abysmal.

OK off the soapbox. Can someone show me the data proving that a torque sensor saves on battery power? I do get the difference, and it is nice for the bicycle purist, but does the torque sensor have a payback as short and obvious as a programable charger? Please educate me. As I understand the physics, the power has to come from somewhere. If you increase range with the TS, it's because you provided additional power. Important for a EU 250W limit with no throttle, but you'll save more with a $300 charger than a $200-$300 torque sensor. Promise.

The Cycle Satiator is the best charger for e-bikes period. It basically does everything and built to be nearly indestructible. It can charge very fast, very slow, any battery and charge to any charge level. If you can afford it, just get it. It's worth it.

Torque Sensor can save battery energy if set up correctly.
It is easy to understand why by thinking about it like this: A car's gas pedal is not a on/off switch. It has many levels of actuation so you can modulate your power in the starts and coasting etc.

The cadence sensor-only type bikes are like on/off switches. It flicks the motor on when you start pedaling and turns it off when you stop pedaling. If you ever use them you will realize that it very often turns the motor on at times when you don't really want or need the boost. That is what is wasting energy. If the boost is set too low and you pedal harder to accelerate, it will feel like the motor is inhibiting you. In those moments you are wasting energy. Those little inefficient moments add up and overall you can have less range.

The torque sensor measures the pressure you put on the pedals and also can measure how fast you are turning the pedals. With those 2 bits of information it can work out your intensions quite precisely (if programmed right). The controller can apply power to the motor to exactly match those intentions. So when you want to speed up, pedal harder and the bikes speeds up. If you want to go slower, pedal softer and the bike will slow down. Your intensions and the motor's power are in harmony. This is more efficient.

On less powerful bikes with around 250W, you may not feel the difference as the motor just does not have the power or torque to really accelerate forward when you push down harder.

On the HyperFat which can peak at 1,500 Watts, the feeling is very impressive. The bike can react to your every move and amplifies your effort by around 5x. The bike feels totally weightless. However, even in the highest boost setting, you can ride the bike very slowly, controlling the bike's speed with just the pressure you put on the pedals.

emco5
2 weeks ago

... cadence RPM.... Bosch used to have favorable feel since the cut off is 106 RPM... assist cut off in Yamaha, Brose, and other popular OEM brands are in the 80-90's RPM....Giant ebikes since they now use the new Syncdrive that has higher cadence cut off of 110-120 RPM.....

So, does anyone know the cadence peak for Shimano's E6000 Steps system? Maybe I missed it, but none of their tech data I've gathered appears to list it.

Mark Peralta
2 weeks ago

??????? You can program the controller to do just about anything you want. As I recall...from memory the upper (speed) limit is 99, can't remember if it's KPH or MPH, but either way you'll be moving right along. Perhaps I'm not pedaling at 120 RPM (cadence) but I regularly go well over 100 RPM (cadence) when climbing steep grades.

Court J.

I posted this addressed to Court Rye the administrator since I noticed that whenever he reviews a OEM mid drive, he always mention about the high cadence limitations, and that the Bosch has a higher top end compared to other mid drives. This old notion does not apply anymore to newer OEM mid drives. Bosch has an indicated top end of 106 RPM, however, the newer Yamaha based Synchdrive has a top end of 110-120 RPM.

The Bafang BBSHD is a whole different league, it has a top end of 150 RPM at 48 volts (130 RPM at 36 volts). A well trained bike sprinter also has does 150 RPM clown pedaling at its peak performance. Maybe, Bafang took into consideration that well trained athletes may also be using their ebikes?
http://image.dhgate.com/0x0s/f2-albu-g3-M01-A0-2B-rBVaHVZT2G-AQCdDAAMu4_r7Ufw810.jpg/hot-sale-b-bike-new-design-good-quality-48v.jpg

And that may be the reason why Bafang won in the Ebike endurance race in Germany?

Bike_On
3 weeks ago

Typo, sorry about that.

Bosch speed bikes have 60nm or torque and 350W ave power, likely 500-700W peak however.

The Opti 15R has 175nm of torque and 1500W ave power, maybe more for peak. That will accelerate much faster.

To maintain 28mph requires the full 350W Bosch output, leg power, a flat road with a good surface and smooth tires and a crouch position. The 34mph advertised Opti speed is upright and throttle only. Remember, power increases exponentially with speed due to air resistance.

My thought was the same R15 with a mode to limit to 28mph, but the same acceleration and PAS vs throttle control.

Would the ebike community then accept Optibike as a class3 pedelec or still consider it a motorcycle?

Joe Remi
4 weeks ago

Be careful! The BBS02 does like to be wound up at peak RPM. It can overheat and damage the gears starting out in 4th. It should be run as if there was no motor. I NEVER start out there. This is from years of servicing, owning, and supporting that motor. I ALWAYS start out in 2nd. For longest life cycle of the motor!
There ya go, this is what my research of mid-drives led me to believe. On my Yamaha with torque sensing there's a point at which the rpms are too high to engage the system, so I'll shift up then, but I largely shift it just like a regular bike: gradually clicking down as the hill rises, gradually back up as it levels off. My understanding is mid-drives don't like to be stuck in one gear over varied terrain like a singlespeed.

Thomas Jaszewski
4 weeks ago

I am using a Bafang BBS02. I feel like I don't really use a lot of the gears. Most of the time I start out in 4th gear, then as I am getting to cruising speed (18-20 mph) I shift right up to 7th (highest gear) and I skip the gears in between. Then when I am going up a hill I shift down to 2nd.
Be careful! The BBS02 does like to be wound up at peak RPM. It can overheat and damage the gears starting out in 4th. It should be run as if there was no motor. I NEVER start out there. This is from years of servicing, owning, and supporting that motor. I ALWAYS start out in 2nd. For longest life cycle of the motor!

cdp
1 week ago

my bike is a little too large for me and i want to sell to buy a different bike. Used 5 times ( maybe 5 miles). Kept indoors and fully charged .

https://post.craigslist.org/manage/6084078213/t26z9

The Electrified S aims to look just like a bike - not a bike with electric drive added as an afterthought, or as an external component - and has its battery, electronics, display, and LED lights built right into the frame, along with a keyless lock, giving the bike a very simple outward appearance which belies the technology built into it.

The bike's electric assist is delivered by a 250W (350W peak) front wheel hub motor, which is powered by an LG lithium-ion battery (418Wh 36V 11,6A) integrated into the bike's down tube.

Along with its normal cycling functions, including electric pedal assist and 'power boost', the Electrified S also features a touchpad display built into the top tube, which shows the speed, , power level, and battery life. Front and rear LED lighting offer visibility while on the road, and the bikes come with steel fenders, with all other major parts secured with anti-theft hardware. The bike's manual drivetrain is through the rear SRAM two-speed internal gear hub.

The bike comes with an app which allows riders to use the Bluetooth connection to remotely unlock or lock the bike, to track it via a worldwide GSM system if it ever gets stolen, or to change the bike's power settings.

Also included are the waitress set front basket and the upgraded chain.-

replacement value $3,000 ( but white is no longer offered)

I have ridden it 5 times, and have kept it indoors and charged
I am using a stock photo- but is as pictured.

bob armani
4 weeks ago

Hi Devon-
That is a hard call. Both bikes are have great components are very well built. The price points are near the same, so I think I would go with the Levo due to better local support for any unforeseen issues with bike functionality. The Brose motor may peak out at 550 watts on both bikes, but I think are very comparable.
Either bike will work for you IMHO. I would test drive both before making a final decision to see where your comfort level is with each bike. I also would see if you need any tweaking for comfort in the stem height, reach and stand over height. This is my best guess. Hope this helps.
BTW-I am not an expert under any means, just my opinion! o_O

flbum
1 month ago

I tested the range of the battery on my new Mariner. I set the display parameter so that manual full throttle would match the PAS level. I used full throttle without peddling at a constant PAS level of 4. I took several breaks during the trip. This was my 3 rd charge of the battery. So, I expect that I am probably experiencing the peak performance of the battery. I returned to the same location from which I started. So, I went downwind as much as I went upwind. Still, I'm sure that the wind decreased my overall range. Here are the parameters and results of the test:

Range: 16.7 miles

Payload: 250 pounds
Average Moving Speed: 11.8 mph
Terrain: Flat paved surface
Tire Pressure: 30 psi

Measuring Device: Garmin Vivoactive HR (GPS)
PAS: 4 (Throttle only / no pedaling)
Total elapsed time: 1:53:37 (including breaks)
Moving Time: 1:24:57
Max Speed: 13.9 mph
Wind speed: 10 mph

The display speed and distance were pretty close to those measured by my GPS. I had the wheel diameter set at 22". I'll bet that the display computer adds 2" inches to the wheel diameter to account for the increase in diameter resulting from an average tire. However, our tires probably add closer to 4 inches to the wheel diameter. This is probably why a 22" wheel diameter yields the best match for the GPS measurements.

I thought that the resulting range with no pedaling was pretty good considering the large payload. :)

ATXBill
1 month ago

A geared rear hub motor might make it up the hill, but the ideal solution is to use a mid-drive with >70nm of torque. The Bosch CX/Performance line, the Bafang Max/BBS02/BBSHD or the Yamaha mid-drive would be your best bets.

I've ridden a 500W direct drive hub motor for a year and a half and it's good on slight to moderate hills, but it has a lot of trouble climbing steep hills (>15% grades) and often gets bogged down due to a lack of torque and because it's far from its optimum RPM range when traveling at low speeds. Now I've got a full suspension mountain bike with a mid-drive (Bafang BBSHD with 200nm of torque) and it's a much better climber.

The only advantages that hub motors have over mid-drives when climbing hills is that hub motors don't cut motor power when shifting. Here's a video that shows a Stromer ST2 with a hub motor beating a mid-drive Kalkhoff on a hill:

The Stromer's motor power peaks around 1200W, whereas the Kalkhoff would be lucky to hit 550W at peak, so this isn't exactly a fair comparison, but it does illustrate the benefit of having uninterrupted power under shifting.

------------------

Nice video. I also live in Austin and have abiding respect for Jester (the Molester) Hill. I noticed your Heart Rate got up there quite a bit (180)...how much assist were you getting from the motor in terms of percentage? With over 400w rider output and your HR that high, I'd suspect you were getting nominal assist. I ask b/c I'm torn between a mid-drive (BBSHD or BBS02) vs. a hub drive. I have a couple of blown vertebral discs, so climbing is excruciatingly painful now...thus I need some help from Mr. Tesla. Any thoughts here?

J.R.
1 month ago

Hi All,

We now have at home 2 e-motion, one NEO Cross and one Evo Eco.
as the two chargers are using the same standard plug + an adaptor for each battery, I was wondering if I could charge my neo battery with my evo charger (as the neo one is noisy with its fan).
The underlying question is, will it charge quicker as it is a 48V? (my 2 batteries are 36V)

thanks a lot
I own a 2015 Evo 29er and my battery is 36 volt, 11.6 amp hour. I have the newer charger and it charges at 42 volt, 2 amp.

Charger:

Battery:

As you can see by the label on my battery, it charges at 42 volts and hot off the charger the battery reads about ~41.xx volts.

If both of your batteries are 36 volt, it shouldn't matter which charger you use. 36 volts is the nominal voltage, not peak. Check your labels on the batteries. I've never seen any battery charger rated for the nominal voltage of a battery.

1/2
america94
1 month ago

I would just say the battery design is an important consideration for "future-proofing". I know this Voltbike battery design is new and very popular, so it should be around for a long time. For example, Juiced Bikes uses the same battery type. This design has 2 types that are not interchangeble... a long and short version. Voltbike and Juiced Bikes uses the short version.

If you bought the Urban Ryder at Costco, I wonder if the battery can be easily replaced in the future. Keep in mind that Lithium batteries are difficult to ship, so shopping online or even from the U.S. may not be an option.

In terms of quality, price and customer service, I have nothing but good things to say about Voltbike. George (the owner) has been wonderful and quick to respond. As I said, I own the Yukon 750 with over 1,000 kms on it already.

From your list, the seat post and derailleur guard is an easy and inexpensive fix. I don't like twist throttle either, but I can live with it.

I prefer a non-integrated rack... in black. Like you said, something that is removeable with a spring clamp.

I know the above picture is a pre-release version, but I hope the final version will have more tasteful design on the paint. Right now, it looks really bare in plain white.

P.S. As a comparison, this Voltbike design is similar to the Surface604 Rook.

Thanks for your great feedback as always @SuperGoop. The Urban Ryder is sold by a Canadian cie in BC (Green Light Cycles). They have an actual shop in BC for locals and the exclusive deal with Costco online. Just like Voltbike and Georges, GLC and the owner/staff have rave reviews in terms of service and friendliness. I contacted them a few times and got very prompt responses. That's how I found out that the battery pack for the Urban Ryder is 360$ canadian, which i find quite reasonable (and also about the peak amp for the controller).

I would never buy it at $2000, but at 1500$ shipping included, it's more tempting. My idea so far has been to put the $500 difference on accessories, tools, clothing instead. Push comes to shove, I can always return it for a refund.

I agree about the seat post and derailleur guard - easy and cheap fixes.

Good eye for the Surface604 Rook! Almost twins, hey? :-)

america94
1 month ago

I've been studying that picture quite a bit since the "unveiling"..... I was very interested at first, but noticed a few things that bug me a bit compared to other bikes:
No "suspension" for the seat or seat post
No quick release on the front wheel
No mounts for bottle cage or accessories
No derailleur guard
Possibly a twist throttle? hard to see on the picture
The chain guard looks like hard plastic that might break after a fall?
The integrated rear rack looks really great, but you can't take it off or get a "clean" solution like Ibera PakRak with quick release bags.

The mud flaps added to the fenders are a very nice touch. The more upright sitting position really attracts me as well.

I am really torn now as I was set on buying the Urban Ryder at Costco for 1500$ right before this bike is finally available. I really would like to get all the specs and final pricing of this new Voltbike before that! I know that the Urban Ryder is a more ancient design but all the things I mentioned above are a non-issue. And just like a good old (although more boring) Toyota Corolla, the same model has been on the market for a few years with nothing but positive reviews. I know the current peak limit of the controller is 21 amps, which is decent paired with a 500w motor. No clue about the controller for this new release from Voltbike or about long term reliability.

Anyone that wants to chime in to help me in my decision between these 2 bikes, please do! :-)

america94
1 month ago

Hi @america94 , since our new Voltbike model is coming pretty soon, it would be no secret to release it here.
It features the same in-frame design battery as Yukon which is 48v 10.4Ah, the same LCD screen, 500w motor 8Fun, adjustable stem, front suspension SR Suntour, fenders, rear rack, chain guard, disc brakes Tektro and front and rear light (not seen at the photo.) plus Kenda tires 26x2.1". Price would be in the $1600 CAD range or $1300 USD. It will be available in black and white.

I second that motion @SuperGoop ! I think you got yourself a winner here @Voltbike . Very nice integrated rack, it looks great. Anyone not into fat bikes and mucho $$ will love this.

From my online research so far, I would say one of the best offerings at that price point for canadians (taking into consideration the reputation of Voltbike as a company in general and the reliability of their bikes).

Can you let us know the peak current limit (in amps) of the controller? looks like a twist throttle? 7 speeds? thanks

Casey Neistat
1 year ago

The road racing bike with drop bars you tested was it limited to 28 miles an hour or could it go faster unlimited on a straight flat road ?

joes joey
1 year ago

what do you think about the SPECIALIZED – LEVO HT COMP 6FATTIE compared to a ohm fat bike or other high class electric bikes? can it pass the 20mph limit ? of course not in the streets but off road on private land can it pass 20mph like the ohm fat bike?thanks and great videos really appreciate your passion for electric cycling !!

Clinton Baltazor
1 year ago

How do these bikes perform in the rain, cold weather, or a really windy day! Whats the durability factor? Your weather is not like the rest the country! Just my opinion, otherwise indepth and quality review! I really like the Izip line of ebikes!

Casey Neistat
1 year ago

Great review again.

FRANK ROBY
1 year ago

good value.

JV
1 year ago

+FRANK ROBY Lol not really.